Chateau d’Esclans

IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE?

SOME THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT

“Rosé does not merit serious tasting”

…Such were the recent words of a fellow wine writer, one very knowledgeable about wine, and one whose opinion I respect immensely on general wine-related matters. He did not offer any caveats; his was a broad proclamation that rosé, as a category, is not serious, nor worthy of my attention.

Could it be, I wondered, that I’ve failed to see the very premise of my own avocation is false? Is a good rosé beneath its red and white brethren, unworthy of the same discerning critique? I knew the answer – mais non, évidemment – but, it’s been a number of years since I’ve been compelled to defend the position. (It’s not as if I’m writing about White Zinfandel, right?)

Growth in rosé consumption has been mind-boggling. The latest figures from Nielsen Research and French Customs indicate that sales in Provence rosés alone increased 55% by volume and 60% by absolute value during the twelve months ending July 2016, as compared to 34% on volume and 40% on value for the same period a year earlier. In France, one of every three bottles of wine consumed is
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Pinknic Debuts in New York City

Rosé comes in more colors than just pink, of course, but it is called rosé for a reason—it’s usually pink or some variation on that color theme. Imagine a huge festival “dedicated exclusively to rosé wine,” and surely “pink” comes to mind, followed closely by words like “pretty, fun
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