Mas de Cadenet

IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE?

SOME THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT

“Rosé does not merit serious tasting”

…Such were the recent words of a fellow wine writer, one very knowledgeable about wine, and one whose opinion I respect immensely on general wine-related matters. He did not offer any caveats; his was a broad proclamation that rosé, as a category, is not serious, nor worthy of my attention.

Could it be, I wondered, that I’ve failed to see the very premise of my own avocation is false? Is a good rosé beneath its red and white brethren, unworthy of the same discerning critique? I knew the answer – mais non, évidemment – but, it’s been a number of years since I’ve been compelled to defend the position. (It’s not as if I’m writing about White Zinfandel, right?)

Growth in rosé consumption has been mind-boggling. The latest figures from Nielsen Research and French Customs indicate that sales in Provence rosés alone increased 55% by volume and 60% by absolute value during the twelve months ending July 2016, as compared to 34% on volume and 40% on value for the same period a year earlier. In France, one of every three bottles of wine consumed is
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Le Vin Cuit from Mas de Cadenet est Arrivé!

in Cuit is a "cooked wine" that is traditionally enjoyed during the Christmas season in Provence. Although most of this holiday dessert wine never makes it out of the small village in which it is made, it is made and sold to a wider audience by a handful of wine producers in
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