Sacha Lichine

IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE?

SOME THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT

“Rosé does not merit serious tasting”

…Such were the recent words of a fellow wine writer, one very knowledgeable about wine, and one whose opinion I respect immensely on general wine-related matters. He did not offer any caveats; his was a broad proclamation that rosé, as a category, is not serious, nor worthy of my attention.

Could it be, I wondered, that I’ve failed to see the very premise of my own avocation is false? Is a good rosé beneath its red and white brethren, unworthy of the same discerning critique? I knew the answer – mais non, évidemment – but, it’s been a number of years since I’ve been compelled to defend the position. (It’s not as if I’m writing about White Zinfandel, right?)

Growth in rosé consumption has been mind-boggling. The latest figures from Nielsen Research and French Customs indicate that sales in Provence rosés alone increased 55% by volume and 60% by absolute value during the twelve months ending July 2016, as compared to 34% on volume and 40% on value for the same period a year earlier. In France, one of every three bottles of wine consumed is
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INVITE SOME ROSÉS TO DINNER THIS HOLIDAY

Last May, I had the great pleasure of attending the biannual “Tasting Supper” at Blantyre, the luxurious Tudor-style manor tucked into 117 forested acres of the Berkshires, in Lenox, Massachusetts. Part of the posh Relais & Châteaux collection of luxury properties, it’s not surprising that our seven-course meal was exquisite in every way. (Proprietor Ann Fitzpatrick Brown would not have it any other way.) It is etched into my memory for the beautifully prepared
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MY DINNER WITH SACHA LICHINE

When the invitation for dinner with Sacha Lichine popped up on my screen, I couldn’t help but think of my grandfather.

Just above my desk, wedged into the middle of a crowded shelf, stands a faded purple book entitled “Wines of France.” The book belonged to my grandfather and the author was Alexis Lichine, Sacha’s father, otherwise known as “the Pope of Wine.”
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