LA CAMARGUE SAUVAGE
Photo by Andrea Schaeffer
Photo by Ryan Taylor
Old Postcard from the collection of Pierre Schott
The most popular bullfighting in this area is called the course camarguaise (also called the course libre); it is bloodless—at least for the bulls! The bulls are not killed—they are said to die of old age—and the bravest are honored with statues. Photo by W.T. Manfull
The Camargue is especially inviting in the spring after the cold mistral winds have died down and before the summer’s notorious mosquitoes have descended. The flora is beginning to bloom and the wildlife is re-emerging. In the case of the flamingos, they return from warmer climates right about now to nest. The Camargue is one of the only places in the Mediterranean where they build their nests. To see a flock of flamingos—milling about in the reed—that suddenly takes flight like a huge pink plume is a sight not soon forgotten. Upwards of over 10,000 pink flamingos are there in the spring and summer seasons.The geography of the Camargue—a huge alluvial plane of unstable land at the mercy of the Rhône River, the Mediterranean Sea, and the strong winds—has never encouraged human habitation although apparently salt was mined in the Neolithic period (going back at least to 2500 BC). Some 2500 to 3000 years ago, the Ligurians and Greeks were interested in the plentiful fish in the delta and the rich source of salt in the marshes. Later, the Romans planted vines and wheat (and continued the development of salt production). In the Middle Ages, the Benedictines and Cistercians, followed by the Knights Templars, settled in the area and focused on salt production. In the 16th century, cattle and horse gardians moved in and, in the 19th century when dikes were built on the river, farming was further encouraged and salt production was industrialized. The rice industry grew in the mid-20th century, initially as a means to desalinate the soil. (Interestingly, after World War II, agriculturists working under the auspices of the Marshall Plan are credited with transforming rice cultivation into an industry. Also, Paul Ricard, most well-known for his pastis company, was instrumental in developing the rice industry and, today, 25% of his estate, now owned by his daughter, is still devoted to growing rice.)
Photo by Peter Gorman
Photo by Wolfgang Staudt
Photo by Wolfgang Staudt
Photo by efilpera
Aigues-Mortes Photo by W.T. Manfull
Domaine de la Palissade: This is the only area of the delta that has never been enclosed by dikes; there is beautiful scenery reflecting what the lower Camargue originally looked like. It includes a bird refuge, nature trails, and picnic tables.
Le Vélo Saintois: Bicycle rentals for all ages; bicycles can be delivered to hotels.
Tiki III: See the Camargue from a paddle steamer!
Kayak Vert Camargue: Rent canoes and kayaks.
Salins du Midi: Tour the Aigues-Mortes salt marshes.
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Notes:
Always confirm information, such as that given above, because there may be changes of which writers like me are unaware.
Get a detailed map of the Camargue. (The first time we visited this area, there was a lot of driving around before we found our course…and all the wildlife!) We recommend the following: IGN (1/50,000) “Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue” or IGN (1/25,000) “Arles & Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue” or Michelin (1/160,000) “Provence & Camargue.”
There are lots of “safari” tours in 4×4 vehicles, including those devoted to photography. We have not done this, but it sounds like a good idea!
Camargue boasts 75 km (45 miles) of fine sandy beaches. I am not familiar enough with the beaches to make recommendations but the two that were most often recommended to us are Plage de Beauduc (beautiful sandy beach, 7 km long) and Plage de Piémançon, (also known as Plage d’Arles; flora covered dunes and beautiful sandy beach, 6 km. long; known for its sea kayaking and naturist/nudist bathing; free; caveat of lots of camping vehicles and very minimal services). For more information, see http://www.camargue-en-provence.com/plages-camargue-tourisme-a.html.
Bring binoculars (and, as always, your camera).
In the summer, pack sunscreen and insect repellant.
Secure the car and don’t leave valuables in it. (Good advice for anywhere!)
If driving from Martigues (or from Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, etc.), you can cross the Grand Rhône with the Bac de Barcarin ferry from Port Saint-Louis-du-Rhone to Salin de Giraud. The cost is something like five euros, cash only. It runs about every 15 minutes. The Camargue is just over an hour’s drive from Martigues.
I would love to do a tour on horseback. Maybe when you're here! And buy some fleur de sel, of course.
Can't wait for the salt marsh report!
Next time I am in Probence, I would love to get to there! I am one of the aforementioned salt-aholics and would love to see firsthand where one of my favorite salts comes from! And I already have the boots and hat!! ~ David
I remember going to the Camargue with my parents when I was a little girl, it was as magical as you portray it. I hope to return ther some day.
Hi Pam, I will bring my boots! let's get some of the riz rouge, too!
When I post my piece about Aigues-Mortes and its neighboring salt marshes next week, friend and fellow blogger, David of Cocoa & Lavender, will post an article about salt, in general, including a wonderful recipe with, of course, a lot of salt! He is, as he wrote below, a salt-aholic!
I foresee a team of cowboys and cowgirls, traversing the Camargue to photograph the wildlife and beautiful landscape, while gathering salt and red rice!
Hi Lisa,
I wonder what changes you would see now. I bet it was even more sauvage then…not to suggest that your childhood was so long ago! 🙂
Susan,Ithink I get a good portion of my education from your blogs !! They are so beautifully written..How many people know how the Flamingos get their pink color, or that horses turn from dark brown to white. The Carmague seems to be a magical place. Thebulls are majestic and the figs succulent.
I do believe you have enough material to write a book. May I be the first to request an autographed copy?
I would love to write a book on my favorite things in Provence–markets, lavender, rosé, and my favorite places to visit!
I, too, found it very interesting that the color of the flamingos stems from an algae for which we humans pay a lot of money to get the antioxidant effects!
Thanks for your nice comments!