Articles by Susan Manfull

IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE?

REVISITING MY THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT

New York, New York  August 9, 2020 – During the long, hot days of Augusts past, coveted pink wine from Provence flowed so briskly that the greatest source of anxiety among millennials from the City was that supplies would dry up in The Hamptons, just a short ride on the Jitney from Manhattan where I write now. In 2014, I recall my daughter confirming New York Post reports that desperate Whispering Angel fans were sent on frenzied searches for more rosé. Not this year. (Oh, to have such problems this year!).

With the global shutdown, probably coupled with President Trump's ill-conceived import tariffs on French wine below 14%-alcohol, it seems that there was barely a trickle of Provence rosé to wine shop shelves and, of course, bars are not open and restaurants are just limping along with service limited to outside tables.  There is a particular lack of high-quality rosé. Such a shame, especially because the 2019 vintage from Provence is stellar.

Will this state of affairs lead marketers to focus on meditation and journaling in their advertising rather than pool quaffers, as Katherine Cole suggests in her SevenFiftyDaily piece (May 25, 2020)? Or, also as Cole wrote, will there be a greater emphasis on quality, including characteristics such as terroir which is not generally discussed in rosé reviews?  Alternatively and far less palatable, Cole also touches on an inchoate practice that some...
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DOMAINE DE L’AMAURIGUE CELEBRATES ITS 20TH VINTAGE

It’s been 20 years since Domaine de l’Amaurigue released its first estate-bottled vintage. To mark that special occasion, Jean-Marie Quef, winemaker and director of the domaine, created a special cuvée of rosé made from only the best and oldest parcels of the property, including their 55-year-old Grenache vines. There was just enough rosé to fill 4000 elegant...
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Easter Monday Brings Omelets and Rosé Chez Nous

Twenty years ago, in April 2000, we were tooling along the Canal du Midi with five friends. We rented a barge – a péniche -- and slowly cruised from Toulouse to Argens-Minervois, each of us taking turns behind the wheel and in the galley kitchen. Easter coincided with this trip and we produced a fabulous lamb dinner with all the trimmings to celebrate that occasion.  The next day, we made omelets.

We learned from someone during our market explorations that the Monday after Easter was also a holiday and that post offices, banks, stores, and most other businesses would be closed. Called Lundi de Pâques or, in English, simply Easter Monday, it is primarily a day to relax.  We were unable to establish any religious significance, but we did learn that the French in the south of France make omelets on Easter Monday.   Et Dieu sait while in France, we wanted to do what the French...

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Southern France Vineyards Struck by Severe Frost

Temperatures as low as -7֯ C  (19.4֯ F) were recorded in the Var in the early morning hours of March 25 and 26. Snow flurries were seen but it was the frost that caused damage to vineyards throughout the Var and apparently in parts of the Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Rhône, and Gard...
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KITÁ WINES: FOR NATIVE AMERICAN WINEMAKER TARA GOMEZ, DREAMS DO COME TRUE

By the time Tara Gomez graduated from high school in 1991, she knew she wanted to be a winemaker.  In many ways, she had been preparing for that role her whole life.  But, she probably never imagined she would be making wine for her tribe, the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians in the American Viticultural Area (AVA) of Santa Barbara, California, or that she would also co-own a nearby winery, Camins 2 Dreams, with her wife Mireia Taribó, a winemaker, that specializes in natural wines. Dreams do...
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IT’S TIME TO BREAK OUT THE VIN CUIT

It’s that time of year again. Some people think of Christmas trees, beautifully wrapped presents tucked under the tree, and stockings by the chimney. We think of wine and food: what will we prepare, and which bottle of wine will marry best with our meal...
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