À TABLE EN PROVENCE: WHEN THE WORKDAY IS LONG AND HARD, THE MEAL PREP IS QUICK AND EASY

November 19, 2012Susan ManfullFood, The Modern Trobadors2

Chez Manfull

The allure of Provence for many of us is its wonderful cuisine coupled with an unfettered life that we imagine leisurely unfolds every day from the time we stretch to greet to the morning to the moments before we close our eyes to dream about the next day. We think of strolling through vibrant markets, baskets laden with fresh produce, cheeses, olives, and baguettes that will later find their way to our table; savoring long lunches in courtyards dotted with terra cotta pots of lavender and rosemary; sipping pastis alongside artists and writers in cafes à la belle époque; and enjoying exquisite multi-course dinners, corks popping and wine flowing to thwart the passage of time. Ah, Provence.

Gourmet store in Aix-en-Provence

If you are lucky enough to travel to Provence, you may well find… these idyllic scenes and many more. I know that our family has been fortunate in realizing many such storied scenes in our numerous travels to Provence. As I have written many times, it is a magical place.

But for those who actually live in Provence, it is not always magical. They cannot escape the prosaic necessities of life like work, grocery shopping, car repairs, medical appointments, and so on….you know the demands of life that tug at your days.

Shopper gets advice about herbs at Aix market

But, they still come to the table—for a café, tea, aperitif, meals, and, of course, conversation.

Our very dear friends, Muriel and Pierre who moved from Alsace to Provence nearly two decades ago, have very busy lives but would never consider skipping their evening rendezvous at the table. We have often been invited to their table—for elaborate multi-course dinners and for quite simple ones—and always lots of conversation. Okay, there is always wine, too!

Muriel makes one of her famous Crumbles

I remember many of the menus served chez Schott but one autumn meal that stands out as a particularly delicious—because it was amazingly easy and seasonal as well as very good—is “Blanc de Poulet à la Normande.”

Blanc de Poulet à la Normande

It has been very busy chez Manfull so we recently made this dinner of chicken breasts with apples and mushrooms in a cream sauce and it was enjoyed by all!

Preparing Blanc de Poulet à la Normande

English translation (with some liberties) of Blanc de Poulet à la Normande

Cut 4 chicken breasts into cubes.
Cook in a skillet with olive oil, butter, salt, and pepper. When done, move to a plate.
Add to the same skillet, 250 grams of chopped mushrooms along with salt and pepper.
Return the chicken to the skillet along with 1 firm apple (sliced).
Flame all with 2 tablespoons of Calvados and extinguish with white wine.
Add 120 grams of crème fraiche. Adjust seasoning and, if desired, add one bouillon cube (we usually do). Reduce sauce a little.

Serve with rice and a light green salad. Find a good baguette and a wedge of cheese and, if you are feeling particularly ambitious and wish to stay in an autumn mood, make an apple dessert. A few weeks ago, my good friend David of Cocoa & Lavender posted a recipe for an apple crostata—it looks really good and he tells me it is easy!

Our wine for dinner

We opened a bottle of light-bodied red wine from Burgundy: a 2010 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain from Domaine Robert Chevillon. It accompanied our Blanc de Poulet à la Normande very nicely although a Viognier or an unoaked Chardonnay have also worked well.

We escaped the demands of our lives for a short time as we dined around our small kitchen table and reminisced about our meals in Provence. Santé Muriel et Pierre!