Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food Seeking Simplicity
by David Scott Allen
Winery: Gérard Bertrand
Cuvée: Oriane
Appellation: Languedoc
Type: Red
Vintage: 2018
Grape Varieties: Syrah 55%, Carignan 45%
Alcohol: 14.5%
Average Retail Price: U.S. $15
I make a lot of complicated food; I enjoy the challenge. However, every once in a while, I need to kick back and make something simple. And that is just what I did this week — seared Elk Medallions with Sautéed Mushrooms. Admittedly, I complicated it a bit by adding a red wine sauce. Did I have a choice? In the words of Nathan Lane in the Birdcage, “One does want a hint of color.” And flavor. You can find the recipe on Cocoa & Lavender.
I ventured into the Languedoc for this week’s pairing. I found a red blend that seemed perfect for my meal. The combination of Syrah and Carignan appealed to me a lot; Carignan is not a grape I can usually find locally.
The 2018 Oriane, by Gérard Bertrand, is a very deep ruby in color, almost inky thanks to the slight predominance of the Syrah. It has a bright nose, with notes of currants, plum, and anise. On the palate, I tasted cherry, plum, currant, and black pepper. It is a medium-to-light-bodied wine with a soft mouthfeel and soft tannins, and a rather unremarkable finish. While not a complex wine (simple isn’t always bad), it was well-balanced and easy to drink, and did pair well with the meal. The tarragon I used in the mushrooms really brought out the anise in the wine, and the wine complemented the slightly gamey flavor of the meat.
For the price — and who knows what that will be in the future — it was a good buy. I would definitely serve it with simple grilled meats and poultry, and can see it going nicely with a simple, seared duck breast.
That looks like a decent red wine and at a good price for French wine in America. The Carignan grape originally came from Aragon, but is now more widely grow in France than Spain. I believe Mazuelo (Carignan) has beome a popular grape variety in Catalunya, but is often used with Tempranillo for blended Rioja.
Very interesting, Mad Dog — I have only had Carignan from the Occitanie region of France, and in Chile from the vineyards west of Santiago de Chile. Nice to know the provenance of the grape. It’s a really nice blend — I hope it remains available at a reasonable price.