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February 14, 2021 9

THE THREE FACES OF GRENACHE

If you are a fan of wines from Provence or the Southern Rhône Valley, you are on an intimate basis with Grenache Noir. You probably don’t sidle up to the bar and order a “Grenache Noir” like you would a glass of Pinot or Cab, but I assure you that, in Provence and the Southern Rhône Valley, you are drinking wines of which Grenache is a major part. You may also know Grenache Blanc, one of its mutations... [...]

October 25, 2020 11

Diary of a Master of Wine in Provence
Solidarité – “Le coeur des chefs”

Written in Saint Martin Vésubie 18th October 2020. I am often described as living in Provence – which makes sense being a rosé specialist, but I actually live in the southern Alps, just over 40 miles north of Nice on the Italian border in a small medieval town called Saint Martin Vésubie. Originally on the salt trade route between Nice and Turin... [...]

August 16, 2020 9

IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE?
REVISITING MY THOUGHTS ON THE SUBJECT

New York, New York August 9, 2020 – During the long, hot days of Augusts past, coveted pink wine from Provence flowed so briskly that the greatest source of anxiety among millennials from the City was that supplies would dry up in The Hamptons, just a short ride on the Jitney from Manhattan where I write now. In 2014, I recall my daughter... [...]

July 23, 2020 25

À TABLE! CHÂTEAU BARBEBELLE AND GÉRARD ISIRDI COME TO THE TABLE TO RAISE AWARENESS ABOUT PANDAS, THE POST-INFECTIOUS AUTOIMMUNE BASAL GANGLIA ENCEPHALITIS THAT TOOK THE LIFE OF ALEX MANFULL

The above title would be (more) unwieldy if I included all the names of the friends, family, and strangers who have contributed... [...]

May 24, 2020 2

Cassis: A Timeless AOC

Cassis is the most beautiful AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) in France: the vineyards cling to the slopes of a magical amphitheater that plunges towards the shimmering Mediterranean. The Phocaeans (ancient Greeks from Asia Minor) must have been enchanted with these slopes when they first saw them 2,600 years ago. And they did well to plant them to the vine. The perfect exposure, dry and nutrient-poor soils and the cooling Mediterranean... [...]

May 10, 2020 7

Hermitage – the finest manifestation of Syrah and Marsanne

Standing guard with a fabulous view looking south over the Rhône Valley is the magnificent hill of Hermitage, crowned by the famous chapel of St Christopher.

Geologically, the hill was part of the right bank Massif Central until the Rhône River burrowed its way to the west, ensuring Hermitage as the only granitic terroir... [...]

April 26, 2020 25

THE INTRIGUE OF LOURMARIN’S DOMAINE DE LA CAVALIÈRE AND ITS NATURAL WINE

In August, the tiny villages of Provence swell with visitors from around the world. In Lourmarin, the charming Luberon village where luminaries like Henri Bosco, Albert Camus, and... [...]

March 29, 2020 10

WINE PARIS 2020 FROM THE VIEW OF A PROVENCE WINE WRITER

It’s a sobering thought that Wine Paris was the last major international wine trade event in 2020. Over two months ago. Virtually every producer with whom I spoke said that the next stop was to be Prowein, scheduled... [...]

February 8, 2020 2

AOC Bellet: Historic Appellation with a Vibrant, Innovative Spirit

The tiny village of St. Romain de Bellet is a true oasis in the bustle of the Côte d’Azur: vegetable gardens, olive groves and patches of vineyard cling to the hills rising steeply above the city of... [...]

December 16, 2019 5

IT’S TIME TO BREAK OUT THE VIN CUIT

It’s that time of year again. Some people think of Christmas trees, beautifully wrapped presents tucked under the tree, and stockings by the chimney. We think of wine and food: what will we prepare, and which bottle of wine will marry best with our meal... [...]

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