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  1. Wow! How long of a post do you want? Favorites are in no particular order…

    La Feniere – near Lourmarin -Excellent dining experience. Provencal inspired dishes. One of the best "restos" around.

    Chez Bru – in Eygalieres – Excellent meal – inventive – has a nice casual feel.

    La Petite Maison – in Cucuron – The chef Eric Sapet is a master – he has a great pedigree of having worked for many top chefs but remains very open and friendly in his own restaurant. He is often mingling with the guests and talking about his preparations, the area, his favorite wines, etc.

    La Closerie – in Ansouis – a small little restaurant with wonderful, simply but perfectly prepared meals. Has become a local favorite so call days in advance for reservations.

    Actually, I cannot think of a bad meal while visiting Provence.

  2. #1 Eat, drink and be merry
    #2 Visit the villages on market days
    #3 Photography – the lighting is incredible
    #4 Eat, drink and be merry
    #5 Les Calanques on a nice day
    #6 Les Baux
    #7 Pont de Gard
    #8 Sitting at a cafe on Cours Mirabeau – Aix
    #9 Eat, drink and be merry
    #10 ditto

  3. I am French and was born and raised in another lovely region of France. I love Provence for many reasons, not the least of which being that it is warm and sunny like the Cote d’Azur but not as crowded. It is also easy and fast to get to from Paris, where I usually land when I travel to France from the U.S.

    When I go to Provence and stay in Lourmarin—which is perfectly located for such a visit—my favorite things to do and see are:

    1. Spending time in the village of Lourmarin where there are many small excellent restaurants and cafés, pastry and bakery shops, a beautiful castle, the tomb of Albert Camus, and lots of art galleries. Peter Mayle has chosen to live there—so read some of his books before going!
    2. Visiting the neighboring villages in and around the Luberon: Bonnieux, Lacoste, Buoux, Roussillon, and Gordes.
    3. Visiting the Luberon National Park itself where the mountains are covered with forests and the plains are filled with vineyards, olive trees, and fields of lavender (which is a tremendous color and fabulous aroma).
    4. Going to all the outdoor markets, especially the ones in Lourmarin, Aix, and Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, where there is also a famous antique market every Sunday.
    5. Visiting Avignon with its ramparts, Palace of the Popes, and Pont d’Avignon.
    6. Visiting Arles where van Gogh lived and painted.
    7. Visiting Cassis and putting your toe in the Mediterranean Sea.
    8. Seeing the Pont du Gard.
    9. Visiting Aix-en-Provence where Cezanne lived and painted.
    10. Just enjoy all the exceptional wine, produced in nearby châteaux, and food, including truffles, both chocolate and those harvested by dogs and pigs!

  4. Only ten favorite things? Here are my choices in order…

    1. A day in Cassis with a visit to the Calanques
    2. Exploring the villages of the Luberon on market day. Favorites include Lourmarin, Cucuron, Bonnieux.
    3. Isle sur Sorgues on a Sunday for the market and Antique market.
    4. Dining at La Feniere. Reine Samut offers the best example of provencal inspired haute cuisine.
    5. Exploring the little know wine regions of the Luberon and the better known region of Gigondas.
    6. Les Baux – sometimes you just have to be a tourist.
    7. Morning coffee at Cafe Gaby in Lourmarin. Get there early to see the local life of the village.
    8. At day of hiking in Buoux with a stop at Auberge des Seigneurs for lunch.
    9. Theatre Antique in Orange – incredible
    10. Pont de Gard – pictures do not do it justice.

    This was fun and brought back wonderful memories.Thanks for letting us share our experiences!

  5. Top Ten:
    10. Apt, and wonderful bookstore there
    9. Plane trees on road into St. Remy
    8. amazing escalier in Le Chateau Vieux (Lourmarin)
    7. Cézanne's atelier in Aix
    6. vie touistiques around Lourmarin
    5. outdoor marchés all over — rooting them out each day as a destination. Buying wonderful precooked entrees for the evening
    4. La Bonbonnière itself in Lourmarin – "home" while away — quiet, private — so unlike hotel living. Plus Jöel très helpful.
    3. Bonieux, Roussillion, Gordes, Ansouis — merveilleuses vues, lovely old medieval towns
    2. La Camargue
    1. Les Baux…, in a word, incroyable

    Runner-ups:
    • The public parking garages in Aix that tell you how many spaces are still empty
    • Gérard Isirdi Gallery, Lourmarin
    • St-Saviour Église and its 1625 organ in Manosque
    • Amphitheater in Arles
    • Arles: Museé Arlesianne (not sure of name)
    • Café Gaby (everybody knows where)

  6. I JUST returned from Provence, where we stayed in Avignon, a beautiful city, but I have to confess I fell in love with the Luberon– I didn't know about La Bonbonniere and will definitely reach out to you next time because we LOVED Lourmarin! The lavender fields near Sault were in their glory! It is a slice of heaven on earth! Your piece captured it well!

  7. We just returned from renting your two places in Lourmarin and loved staying there (June, 2010). One of our favourite restaurants was L'Arome in Bonnieux (10 km away)- a bit pricy but excellent, and also enjoyed many restaurants in Lourmarin. My favourite was the Tea House 3 doors down from your place, next to the book store and the potter – both wonderful. We had lunch at the Tea House twice -loved her pizza-type (but better) pies and salads and desserts and interesting conversation about her work. We had great meals and "beaucoup de" wine everywhere.
    Lorna Romilly
    August 9, 2010

  8. Hi we spent 2 weeks of summer 2008 in Provence we also included Arles then Avignon with a Lavender Tour then Sisteron , Minerbes , and Montelimar in Drome where they have an excellent Tourisme
    Office where we bought a great car tour through lavender fields and stopped at a lavender Farm and bought greta fresh produce al their small store we finished with a lavender infused dinner at a local hotel great experience.
    So what can I say Provence and lavender are my two loves in France . I have enjoyed a great deal your newsletter with an original name and great narrative and fotos. Wishing to make our retirement home in Provence. Best of luck and happiness in la Provence.IB

  9. I have to say that I am in total agreement abotu the wonders of the TGV. My first experience was taking it to Lyon and changing to a train of not-such-grande-vitesse to get to Grenoble to visit friends for their wedding. It was a night-and-day experience and woudl do it again just to ride the train!

  10. We'll plan an itinerary in which we'll travel from point to point on the TGV…and you plan the menu! Deal?

  11. We are so happy that you enjoyed your stay in La Bonbonnière. We will be there soon and plan to follow your recommendation for dinner in Bonnieux—we know of it, but have not been there. We also love the tea house you mentioned, Le Thé dans l’Encrier, (see on our website). And, we, too, love the tomato tart (tarte aux tomates)! In fact, Mapi always prepares a double serving for our daughter, who is crazy about it. Another one of our other favorites is the chicken crumble (Crumble au Poulet), a meal that was created by one of our good friends, Muriel, who, with her husband Pierre originally opened the restaurant several years ago. You can find the crumble recipe at http://tinyurl.com/3x2jfvk, a wonderful culinary blog created by friends of ours—all serious foodies will enjoy following Cocoa & Lavender! Thanks so much for your comments.

    Amitiés,
    Susan and Towny

  12. What a terrific itinerary! Thank you for your favorable feedback–we are so glad that you have enjoyed our newsletter. Let us know what other topics you would like to see covered.

    Amitiés,
    Susan and Towny

  13. Susan, I am fascinated by this D-Day piece as I am in the midst of writing a novel about the French Resistance in the Southwest in 1944. In all the research I have done (tho' specifically not about Provence) I didn't know about this invasion. Tres interesant, en effet! I can't wait to get there and see the local memorials. Thanks for the "heads up"!

    PS- I do not understand the "profile" thing so I just picked one…

  14. So glad you all have started a newsletter. I love getting a weekly dose of Provence. I didn't realize that the areas around Lourmarin had such strong involvement in WWII. Thanks for the informative retrospective!

  15. When we first went to Lourmarin, about ten years ago, a good friend of ours introduced us to her octogenarian mother who had been in the French Resistance and whose husband had been involved in some manner with the invasion. I say “in some manner” because I was only able to decipher some of what this lovely woman was saying and have retained even less as the years have passed — my French language comprehension was not strong at the time and her French was spoken with a very rapid cadence and an especially strong Provençal accent. Nonetheless, I was captivated by her unadulterated stories of real bravery and everyday sacrifices; she spoke in the most matter-of-fact manner about these things, as if that was simply what was done in the name of humanity and their beloved country. She became very emotional and teary when she talked about the Allied invasion and of her especially warm feelings for the American troops she met. We had never heard about this “other D-Day” and were riveted. She brought out a dusty old box with a veritable treasure trove of period newspapers and photographs for us to see. It was important to her that people knew about the invasion and knew that Provence had played a role, albeit a small one, in ending the war. And, she wanted us to know how appreciative the French were – and still are – about the integral role Americans played in the liberation of France.

  16. Si la Provence c'est – avant tout – une lumière, une ambiance, un art de "bien-vivre", elle est aussi faite de sites et de gens…

    1. Qui n'a pas visité la Camargue – de préférence hors saison, quand (presque) toutes les routes sont ouvertes – aura raté la part la plus sauvage, la plus authentique de ce qu'on appelle, si joliment, le Midi. Là vivent en une communion d'un autre temps, quelque peu préservée, un monde naturel quasi originel, un monde animal (presque) en totale liberté, et des femmes et des hommes pétris de traditions ancestrales…

    2. Dans le même esprit : ne repartez pas sans avoir emmagasiné, au plus profond de votre mémoire, les splendeurs naturelles des "calanques", entre Marseille et Cassis ! La plus impressionnante est, sans nul doute, celle de Sormiou. À peine quitté le dernier dédale d'un quartier marseillais, en quelques hectomètres vous grimperez dans les collines, et, tout à coup, vous basculerez vers la mer, en un panorama qui enchantera l'âme la plus blasée du monde…

    3. Restons encore un peu du côté de Marseille : prenez-vous le temps de longer sa "corniche", du Vieux-Port à Callelongue (cul-de-sac), et arrêtez-vous au Vallon des Aufes, dernier petit port authentique, avec les derniers pêcheurs authentiquement marseillais ; de même, au hameau des Goudes, descendez juqu'au port de plaisance, ne vous arrêtez pas, continuez jusqu'au bout de la route, laissez la voiture et – à pied – prenez l'étroit chemin dans les rochers, et aboutissez au Cap Croisette, un endroit de rêve, avec l'Ile Maïre en face, et un super restaurant spécialisé dans les produits de la mer et… la location de matelas où viennent se faire bronzer les plus belles filles de Marseille !…

    4. Quittons le bord de mer et intéressons-nous à la Provence intérieure : investissez le Luberon, faites-le vôtre (comptez une bonne semaine pour bien en profiter) !… Lourmarin, bien sûr, où tout le monde se sent arrivé chez soi, sans s'expliquer le pourquoi du comment (allez expliquer le bonheur !) ; tous les autres villages, aussi (chacun a ses atouts, son propre charme). Quelques endroits particuliers qui méritent absolument le détour : le hameau de Sivergues et, un peu plus loin, la ferme du Castellas ; l'abbaye de St-Hilaire, entre le village-promontoire de Ménerbes et le château ruiné du Marquis de Sade, à Lacoste ; le site du Fort de Buoux, que se sont disputés les Catholiques et les Protestants ; le village en restanques de Bonnieux ; les façades Renaissance d'Oppède-le-Vieux ; proches de Lourmarin : Vaugines et son église rustique, Ansouis et son château féodal, Cucuron et son bassin, etc. N'oubliez pas de pousser jusque dans les Monts-de-Vaucluse, de l'autre côté de la route nationale 100 : Gordes et ses dédales de rues en calade ; à l'extérieur : l'extraordinaire village des bories, et, perdue dans un vallon, la réputée abbaye de Sénanque ; le coloré village de Roussillon et ses carrières d'ocres (à ne rater sous aucun prétexte !) ; pour les amateurs de vins et de châteaux anciens : le Château de Mille, près d'Apt, ancienne demeure estivale des Papes d'Avignon…

    5. Quittons le Luberon du côté de Mérindol, traversons la Durance à la hauteur du Vieux-Pont de Mallemort, et dirigeons-nous vers la "montagnette" : les Alpilles, haut-lieu de la Provence des poètes de langue provençale (langue d'oc) et des troubadours ancestraux… St-Rémy la Romaine, bien sûr ; la Chapelle St-Sixte, à l'entrée d'Eygalières (grand classique des peintres du monde entier) ; les Baux-de-Provence et… ses touristes (un des sites les plus visités de France !), et, un peu plus loin, vers Arles et ses arènes antiques, le moulin (dit) d'Alphonse Daudet, à Fontvieille…

  17. 6. Pour les Provençaux un peu chauvins, au-delà de Cavaillon ce n'est plus la "vraie" Provence ! Mais vous n'êtes pas sensé le savoir… Poussons donc un peu plus haut, vers le "nord" du Midi : le fier et romain Pont du Gard, les villages viticoles des Côtes-du-Rhône (comme Châteauneuf-du-Pape), les Dentelles de Montmirail, Vaison-la-Romaine, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, etc.

    7. La Haute-Provence, maintenant… Au bout du Luberon, vers les Alpes, Manosque et sa région aux paysages très variés (Montagne de Lure, Plateau de Valensole (lavande), les gorges du Verdon, le lac de Ste-Croix, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie (et ses faïences), Monastère de Ganagobie, etc.

    8. N'oublions pas les grandes villes… Marseille, nous l'avons décortiqué, déjà… Avignon : les remparts, le Palais des Papes ; une ville qui sent le passé de tous les "pores" de ses ruelles… Et puis, la cerise sur le gâteau : Aix-en-Provence la Lumineuse, gaie et conviviale ; le paradis du shopping chic ; son Cours Mirabeau avec tous ses cafés en rang d'oignons ; ses innombrables fontaines, aussi…

    9. On ne peut pas parler du Midi de la France sans citer cette chère Côte d'Azur, synonyme de vacances, plages et… "farniente", bien sûr ! À votre bon choix, messieurs-dames…

    10. Terminons par Lourmarin, le fief des Manfull… Venez. Voyez. Profitez. Et vous n'aurez qu'une hâte : revenir ! Et tout est dit…

  18. Hi Susan, as promised….you should look up Jean Moulin, famous French WWII resistance fighter. When driving to one of our favourite villages, Eygaliere, we drive along the route Jean Moulin and that's how I found out about him….as I was curious why it was called route Jean Moulin….

    Lis 🙂

  19. Hi Lis,
    Monsieur Moulin sounds like a good topic for a future post! (hint… hint….) We, too, often go to Eygalière (Eygalières? I see it spelled both ways). I love their market and Chez Bru — have you eaten there? (Absolutely wonderful fare.) I will look for the route with his name! Thanks so much for your post!
    All the best,
    Susan

  20. Dear Susan,
    Love the newsletter. It brings back out the sense of Provence . Keep up with it, but don't worry about a schedule. It's Provence , after all. The concept of a schedule can be kept loose. I am currently living and working in the UK ( Suffolk , England ). I have many fond memories of my short stay at your place a few years back. Work right now is long and hard, but if I can pry some time away, I'll consider a jaunt across "La Manche". I see from your website that you sold L'Oustalon. Is it still available to rent? Nothing firm in mind yet, but want to keep my info up to date.

    Looking forward to reading more and hearing back from you.

    Best regards,
    Tom Polito

  21. Hi Tom,

    So good to hear from you! Thanks for the positive feedback and encouraging philosophy about keeping a publication schedule (or not!).

    L'Oustaloun is definitely still available for rent. We were fortunate to sell that sweet place to a lovely woman, Pru, who continues to rent it. You may still go through http://www.rentourhomeinprovence.com to reserve a week (or two!).

    All the best,
    Susan

  22. What a wonderful blog. I’m not a licorice fan, but, who knows? I’ll have to have some pastis when you return to PLAY SQUASH!!! (I hope you have a chance to play there).

  23. What a wonderful blog. I'm not a licorice fan, but, who knows? I'll have to have some pastis when you return to PLAY SQUASH!!! (I hope you have a chance to play there).

  24. Harry Doutt (Jan's husband) August 23, 2010 at 10:26 pm

    I have enjoyed reading your posts. We subscribe to France magazine in order to receive our “Everything French Fix,” however reading your blog truly brings France into our home in a personal and fresh way. I am almost able to smell the lavander and the anise as you share wonders and delights of Provence and Lourmarin.

  25. Harry Doutt (Jan's husband) August 24, 2010 at 12:28 pm

    I have enjoyed reading your posts. We subscribe to France magazine in order to receive our "Everything French Fix," however reading your blog truly brings France into our home in a personal and fresh way. I am almost able to smell the lavander and the anise as you share wonders and delights of Provence and Lourmarin.

  26. I absolutely can’t wait to get to Loumarin and find the place to taste these treats…I have had Pastis and liked it but did not know there were artisanal ones…how does one get it “home”? Must you check a bag to get it on the airplane? or can you ship it reasonably?

  27. While still not hooked on drinking Pastis, I have to say that drinking it in the square in Lourmarin is a different story! It tastes just right in situ! I love using it in tomato-based soups, too – lacing each serving with a little as you serve!

  28. Towney & Susan,

    You jogged my memory and taste buds to pull out my bottle of Ricard before the summer’s over! Hope your holiday is going well. Nothing new to report here on the “home front”.

    Great newsletter.

  29. We enjoy reading “The Modern Trobadors.” But we are envious! Just a year ago August 31 we arrived in Lourmarin and had such a lovely stay at La Bonbiennere – your writing brings back great memories – we will return!

  30. We enjoy reading "The Modern Trobadors." But we are envious! Just a year ago August 31 we arrived in Lourmarin and had such a lovely stay at La Bonbiennere – your writing brings back great memories – we will return!

  31. Harry, Merci beaucoup pour le bon commentaire! Stay tuned–I hope you will soon feel like you are back in the Lourmarin market! Amities, Susan

  32. Coucou Anonymous Ginny, I will be home soon, carrying sardines, to play squash!

  33. Bonjour Wanda and Dick,
    We were at the Cucuron market yesterday. As you know,it is a small but lovely market. We brought home a basket filled with cheeses, wonderful fruits and veggies–the beef steak tomatoes were worthy of a Cezanne painting and the figs were fabulous flavorful–honey, olives, a wine from Chateauneuf-du-Papei, and our favorite rotisseried chicken with pommes des terres supplementaires. It was a dejeuner extraordinaire in the courtyard of La Bonbonniere! Do come back! In the meantime, many thanks for your comments!
    Amities,
    Susan

  34. Towney & Susan,

    You jogged my memory and taste buds to pull out my bottle of Ricard before the summer's over! Hope your holiday is going well. Nothing new to report here on the "home front".

    Great newsletter.

  35. Hi Jeff, We look forward to sharing some pastis with you and Janice! Many thanks for your post! Amities, Susan

  36. While still not hooked on drinking Pastis, I have to say that drinking it in the square in Lourmarin is a different story! It tastes just right in situ! I love using it in tomato-based soups, too – lacing each serving with a little as you serve!

  37. Coucou David, Doreen, and Mark,

    Will your blog be posting a recipe for a tomato based soup with pastis anytime soon?? Our readers can find wonderful recipes inspired by cuisines from around the world at: http://cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com/

    Thank you so much for your post….maybe you just haven’t tried the right pastis!

    Amities,
    Susan

  38. I absolutely can't wait to get to Loumarin and find the place to taste these treats…I have had Pastis and liked it but did not know there were artisanal ones…how does one get it "home"? Must you check a bag to get it on the airplane? or can you ship it reasonably?

  39. Hi Linda,

    Le Jardin d’Ugo is just around the corner from La Bonbonniere; there you will find a very good selection of artisinal pastises and absinthes. Nowadays as I know you know, sadly, it does require checking a bag unless you mail it home. I will check on the details of that option and post later…..good question! Merci bien.

    Amities,
    Susan

  40. Susan and Towny,

    I would be really pleased to make my next blog entry the tomato-fennel soup laced with Pastis! It is a lovely summer soup! Check the blog (www.cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com) on the 8th!

    A bientot,
    David

  41. Susan and Towny,

    I would be really pleased to make my next blog entry the tomato-fennel soup laced with Pastis! It is a lovely summer soup! Check the blog (www.cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com) on the 8th!

    A bientot,
    David

  42. C’est parti, David and our dear readers…a new expression for us, meaning “we are off and running.” I guarantee that David’s tomato-fennel soup avec pastis will be a keeper! Amities, Susan

  43. Hello Susan
    All this brings back all the wonderful memories of staying in your apartment, and all the beautiful villages around and including Lourmarin, just to go into a restaurant or maybe many restaurants, sit for hours with some wine watching the world go by. Just writing this has prompted me to get a glass of wine, cheers. I don't know when we will be visiting that area again as we have just bought an 18th century barn conversion in Lincolnshire UK, but Lourmarin is always beckoning us,so who knows thanks for the memories Paul and Anne

  44. Hi Paul and Anne,
    You are absolutely right….a glass of wine and a table at a cafe from which one can watch the world go by is all you need to be happy here! But, I imagine your 18th c barn conversion will be pretty inspiring, too.
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  45. Quel hoopla! peut-être un jour… ah, yes, maybe someday we'll to take in the fête votive. What a refreshing idea, a town party that isn't tainted with political overtones, commercial trash, or cheapjack jingoism — can't think of an even close similar effort here in the New World… alas, more's the pity.

    Its long forgotten origins and an occasional nasty wind notwithstanding, the fête votive still sounds like a hoot — laissez-nous avoir du plaisir! (translation, let's rock!).

    Mike

  46. Mike,
    It was a hoot! You and Betsy would both have fun and subjects for your watercolors are plentiful, too! Merci for your note.
    All the best,
    Susan

  47. Wow – it brings back such wonder-filled memories of our evening at the Fête Votive in 2008. Sadly, we missed the fireworks – perhaps there didn't have them or we were sound asleep! But we loved watching the dancing – people of all ages on the floor with the live band playing their requests!

    Were the ChiChi funnel cakes made from chickpea flour? In Tuscany, there are Cecina (like a pancake), and in Sicily Ceci Cakes(a fried pastry), both similarly pronounced to ChiChi. One has to wonder….

    And now, the difference between boules and pétanques? Inquiring minds want/need to know…

    As promised, I will be posting the recipe for fennel-tomato soup with pastis on Wednesday – keep an eye out at http://www.cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com!

    A bientôt! And thanks fro taking us all back to Lourmarin!

    David

  48. Hi David,

    Well, it seems we simply must return next year to sample the chichi cakes….although what type of flour is used really sounds like a question for you and Doreen and http://www.cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com !!!

    The boules and pétanque question….

    First, let me make a correction to my article: A French friend wrote to say that latter game is not written in the plural form (as I did in the piece above).

    Second, to your question (which inspired more conversation with the same French friend and a little research as well): pétanque is a form of boules that has departed from the original game in two main ways: the piste (or runway down which the boule is launched) is shorter and the player is confined to one spot when he or she launches the boule into play. The word, pétanque, comes from the Provençal expression "a pes tanca," meaning to keep one's feet together or anchored (when putting the boule into play). Thus, rather than taking a few steps before launching the boule, the player stands inside a circle as he or she sends the ball into play. This version of boules was created in 1907 in La Ciotat, a small town on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. As the story goes, a well-known and well-liked former boules champion, Jules LeNoir, was no longer able to take the necessary steps down the piste to launch the ball–the reasons cited range from rheumatism to an accident that paralyzed him from the waist down–and so, a new version was created in order to include this popular man.

    Pétanque's popularity is rapidly growing, especially among the fashionable young in France and elsewhere. A recent article in The Guardian has this story: http://tinyurl.com/22klfe8

    Now, I am off to your blog to see about fennel-tomato soup with Pastis!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  49. The last evening of two dreamlike weeks in Lourmarin a couple summers ago was the opening night of the fete votive. How charming to recall through your essay the pleasant experiences: seeing the dinner zig-zagging up the tilted main street, walking about among the colorful lights under the plane trees overlooking the chateau beyond the soccer fields, and drifting off to sleep to the tune of distant music and voices. – Mark

  50. Hi Mark,

    Your lovely comment recalling the details of a scene from the fete votive sums it all up so well–dreamlike.

    Thanks so much for your note.

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  51. Bonjour, mes amis! Oh, so sad that they don't have a satellite parlor of L'Art Glacier in Tucson! After all, we need ice cream in the desert much more than we need the Red Sox!

    I, too, am still in mourning over the closing of Rumpelmayer's in NYC – not only for the ice cream but also for their chocolat chaud. I know that they were related to Angélina on the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Do you know if they carry the ice creams there, too? Sounds like a reconnaissance mission is in order… David

  52. While trying to determine when Rumpelmayer's closed, I came across their recipe for hot chocolate in the NYT and I immediately thought of you….so funny!

    Intriguing idea about the ice cream in Chez Angelina Rumpelmayer….We have never ventured beyond beverages–tea and that wonderful Chocolat l'Africain! Sign us up for the mission!

    Thanks so much for your note.

    Amitiés,
    Susan and Towny

  53. Susan and Towny,
    I just loved reading this – I could almost smell the herbes de provence in my office! I hadn't realized that the addition of lavender was a tourist version. Quel dommage! I really love lavender in the mix and I despise being thought of as a tourist! Will I need to mend my ways?? Do I give up my pretension or lavender? Tough call, but I think lavender will win. I want to go home now and roast a chicken…
    A bientot! David

  54. David,
    We agree–keep the lavender! Did you roast the chicken?
    Amitiés,
    Susan and Towny

  55. Hi Susan,
    I just wanted to write and tell you how much we have been enjoying your blog….SUPER!!
    I particularly loved the Pastis article since I collect old Pastis bottles and searching for them, when in France, is one of my favorite activities.
    We think of Lourmarin often and reading the blog has brought back many wonderful, fragrant and delicious memories!
    Hope all is well with you and your family
    Many thanks!

  56. Another article I thoroughly enjoyed. I will be passing your site to several friends that will enjoy your articles. Perhaps we can see more photos, too? Your pictures in your first article really evoked a feeling of the place. Again, a very nice read.

  57. Thanks, everyone, for the kind feedback! We will gladly work on including more photographs in future posts! Any leads on old Pastis bottles?
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  58. It's always a delight to open my email and find the newest Modern Trobador – memories of times in Provence and anticipation of more in the future. This week, Mr. Dater's illustrations are extraodinary. All of them, though I especially love the "goo-goo eyes". off to visit his website – another great find.
    Patti in Fresno

  59. Ah, Patti, merci mon petit chou. You will enjoy Mike's website!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  60. Geesh! Who knew there could be SOOOO many expressions I have never heard before! Great compilation – and I adored the drawings.

  61. Hi Linda,
    I hope that you are able to work some of these expressions into your conversations when you go to Lourmarin! Thanks so much!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  62. These are so much fun! I will have to work hard to add them all to my vocabulary!! The one that stuck immediately is "J'ai de la brioche!" 🙂
    David

  63. David,
    I don't know how you will work THAT one into your conversations! :~)
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  64. Wow, if I can remember half of these a year from now, my vocabulary will have tripled! Gin

  65. It's worth a try (although, since I am familiar with your French, Ginny, I know that your calculation about your projected vocabulary is woefully low!).
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  66. Camus was such a great writer – and I regret that my profs never had us read him in French. We did read his translated works in English but I fear, as is often the case, so much is lost in translation. Maybe that should be a winter project for me? To read L'etranger en francais! Thanks again for a great posting!

  67. I will join you in that endeavor–maybe we could have our discussions on Skype!
    Amitiès,
    Susan

  68. The black truffle is being farmed just like any other crop but you make a lot more money with a black truffle farm than with traditional crops. A black truffle farm makes more money per acre than any other " legal "crop.

  69. Hi Stevan,
    Interesting. Tempting. Would love to hear more and will reach out to you for our upcoming newsletter devoted to truffles. Thanks so much for your comment.
    Amitiès,
    Susan

  70. As usual, this makes me want to purchase a ticket to fly over and partake in all these festivities! I admit to a little fantasy when reading about the Santons – you could start the Third Millennium Village People – the Baker, the Fisherman, the Hunter, and the Policeman (one always has to have a policeman in the Village People…). But, hélas, these are mere dreams and I must return to just another beautiful day in the Sonoran desert…

  71. In the mean time, like the people in Provence who couldn't get to the church nativities, create your own characters crossing the Sonoran dessert en route to Bethlehem. You have no shortage of characters with which to work these days in Arizona!

  72. Love the atmospheric descriptions. They evoke the best of the pleasant summer days we spent in Lourmarin and the romance of snuggling into a warm cafe or bistro when we spent a New Year's in Paris. Croque madame et verre de vin quelqu'un?

    I haven't seen or heard the word "creche" since I was a boy. I don't know how that came into usage in our oh-so-w.a.s.p. household, but it was the norm, and when I heard "nativity scene" when we moved to New England it sounded clunky and inelegant! Thanks for stirring the memories!

  73. Thanks for the pleasure of stirring the memories! I wish that someone would offer me a croque madame et verre de vin about now!

  74. Really great information — my mouth was watering for adding such wonderful gems to almost any recipe i can think of. thanks for the history and the hunting info. i am ready to book my flight!! syd

  75. Me, too. Thanks for the nice feedback!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  76. I recently bought rail tickets in the train station kiosk at Nice, to travel to Monaco, and paid with my chip Visa card, issued in New Zealand. It all worked beautifully!
    BTW I have accessed your site because I'm intending to return to Provence early in August next year, to see the lavender. Any hints?

  77. What a wonderful story about a budding love affair with Lourmarin! The light there is magical – I can see why an artist like Monte would be attracted by it.

  78. I do find the dichotomy fascinating – that the ban is happening as the mosque is being built. I can also liken it to things that happen everyday in our country… and probably many other places int eh world. There are no easy answers, are there? Thank you for such a thoughtful and thought-provoking article!
    David

  79. David,

    Thanks so much for your comments.

    I learned a lot researching the topic and talking to others about their feelings on the subject. Laws, cultures, religions, traditions, politics, personal beliefs, fears, the economy, ordinary people–when all these factors are entangled, it is very complicated.

    Susan

  80. Since seeing an interview several years ago with women who are so comfortable with the anonymity and privacy of wearing a burqa, I can't help wonder if those who will now be forced to put it aside will feel they've been stripped naked and publicly humiliated. While the imminent change might provide a welcome excuse to some who never liked wearing it, others must feel threatened with exposure.

    Most immigrants somewhat transform the new place around them, but over the course of a generation or two they and their heirs are more often transformed by their new home. A century ago Americans were terribly fearful of immigrants but they and their children and grandchildren have been transformed by it, and enriched American culture. To take a simple example, think how the American Christmas observance melds British, Dutch, German, French and Italian traditions; and how readily Anglo-Americans join in celebrating Cinco de Mayo or Mardis Gras or Chinese New Year or Mardi Gras. Today, immigrants to America tend to learn English and adopt American ways much faster than did their predecessors a century ago. This is partly due to the permeation of radio and television, and also to the power of the homogenization of national culture we sometimes find ourselves complaining about. Thank you for a very interesting essay.

  81. To anonymous,

    I wish that I would hear from Muslim women who wear veils. You mention the role of radio and television–I wonder what role social media will play in that interaction between immigrants and the new culture in which they live. Thanks very much for your thoughtful observations.

    Susan

  82. I am ABSOLUTELY against the "burqa" in my country, France. When in France, do as the French do. Hiding oneself in such a costume could be dangerous, as a man could cover himself that way, too, and cause troubles to other people. The "Niqab" shouldn't be used either–except for the eyes ,everything else is covered also. If I were living in an Arab country, should I wear my Sunday hat and go around with my rosary in my hands? I lived in Burkina Faso where people are mostly Muslims, and never saw women wearing such outfits. I lived with Catholic nuns overthere, who dressed as anyone else, only with a chain and a cross around their neck. In this country, Indians don't wear feathers on their heads, except for special feast days. I definitely am for wearing the "hijab" if women who are Islamic Arabs want to feel more comfortable.

  83. Dear Anonymous,
    You are not alone in feeling that the culture in which one resides should be the most influential in determining one's dress (as well as behavior). Certainly, you have followed those guidelines when living abroad. Thanks so much for your thoughts.

    Susan

  84. Dear Brian,

    I certainly don't mind you going on at length….I fascinated by your experience and I am certain that our readers will be very interested as well.

    You mention the "jilbab" and suggest that it is similar to the niqab….I am not at all an authority on Islambic clothing, but I don't think that the Jilbab involves a veil. Among other sources, I used http:/islam.about.com/od/dress/tp/clothing-glossary.htm?p=1 as a reference.

    Can any reader advise us?

    Thank you so much for your thoughtful comments.

    Susan

  85. Dear Susan:

    I've mentioned to you, I think, that my hometown of Luton has a very large Muslim population and that the Bury Park district where I was born and raised is almost entirely Muslim. There was a case a few years ago brought by a local schoolgirl before the European Court of Human Rights which established her right to wear the jilbab (the same as what you're calling the niqab, I think). The best explanation of this case that I've been able to find on the web is at
    Article 14 of the European Human Rights Convention reads:
    Article 14: Prohibition of discrimination
    The enjoyment of the rights and freedoms set forth in this convention shall be secured without discrimination on any ground such as sex, race, colour, language, religion, political or other opinion, national or social origin, association with a national minority, property, birth or other status.

    It was with reference to this Article that the case was brought before the European Court and I would imagine that a similar case will be made by some person or organization in France. (If I remember correctly, the case was presented to the Court by Cherie Blair, wife of Tony!).

    There was some controversy in England when a Member of Parliament (Jack Straw, who was Foreign Secretary in Tony Blair's last administration) indicated that he was uncomfortable seeing constituents at his constituency office if they were wearing dress which covered the face, and would ask them to uncover the face. How this was resolved I don't know.

    For many years, throughout the nineties, Luton had the largest mosque in Europe outside European Turkey. It was built on the site of the Co-op store where as a child I used to shop with my mother. If you still have the NY Times article I sent you at the time of the general election last May in the UK you'll see there a photograph with the minaret appearing above the other buildings.

    Luton is now notorious as a hotbed of radical Islam, though that contention is hotly disputed in the town. It is said (and I'm pretty sure that in general terms it's correct) that relations between the communities are very good and that militants are a tiny minority. Nevertheless the town has the distinction, if that's the right word, of having had more residents die fighting for the Taliban than for NATO forces.

    The town made headlines (including the NY Times and the Washington Post) again last December when a militant Muslim from Luton blew himself up in Stockholm. My favorite headline was "How Luton Became the Epicentre of the Global Clash of Civilisations." You can follow this article at http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/how-luton-became-the-epicentre-of-the-global-clash-of-civilisations-2159578.html.

    As far as I know there has not yet been any general call for banning the "burqa" in the UK, and it seems not to be a major issue. The far-right anti-Muslim groups who fought last year's general election received derisory votes (not that this has always been the case, particularly at local level), and that has certainly not been the case in, say, France, Netherlands, Denmark and even Sweden.

    I hope you don't mind me going on at some length, but my guess is that you'd be interested. It's a big subject.

    Talk to you soon ~ hugs, Brian.

  86. I'm completely against this ban. The Burqa for some Muslim women is their identity. What happened to freedom of expression??? It's becoming stupid how can a government control what a woman wears?! It's outrageous!! It's against human rights! What happened to free will?!?!? I am a Muslim woman myself and I know how difficult it is nowadays to practice Islam in the western world.
    Words seem to fail me when I try to explain my views on this. I just feel so angry and frustrated at the fact that this can happen HERE in the western world. I'm sure this is a form of oppression! I feel for the Muslim sisters in France who wear the Niqab. So what if only so many women wear it they're wearing it because they want to because its how they want to dress, it's how they express their beliefs how can they take that away from someone?! This will affect every muslim out there and every person who stands for human rights.

    I stress these are just my views and how I look at this subject.

    From a rambling concerned sister

    Raisah x

  87. Dear Raisah,
    Thank you so very much for your thoughts. I think that, without meaningful dialogue with people who practice Islam, it is hard for those of us in the West to understand how important wearing the Islamic veil is for Muslim women. You can see that there are many different views expressed here on the subject.

    In your video, you provide a very moving testimony for your wearing of the hijab. Readers who want to see Raisah's video can go tohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F05_BVmGnYg

    Please check back and let us know when part II is out!

    Thank you for posting your views.

    Susan

  88. Here's part 2 (i)

    part 2 (ii)

    part 3

    Part 2 and 3 is about voicing other peoples opinions I hope this helps people understand how important hijab/niqab is for a muslim woman who wears it. Despite people voting 'yes' on the ban does not change the fact that niqab/hijab is part of a woman's identity and it's who they are and what they're about.

    Raisah x

  89. As an agnostic and, I hope, a tolerant individual, I am sympathetic to those Muslim women who have been raised to believe it a tenet of their religion and culture that they keep their face and body private from public view, but are now told they will be acting unlawfully in France if they continue to do so.

    However, as a UK citizen, and an inhabitant of London as well as our home in the Luberon, I see at first hand the increasing concern and sometimes outright hostility towards Islam in the UK.

    The UK is a country which, like France, has welcomed and assimilated newcomers for centuries. Unfortunately,there is a growing groundswell of resistance to Islam, perhaps fuelled by recent history, but certainly exacerbated by the behaviour of some extremists who exercise their right to freedom of speech in the UK by threatening and reviling the country in which they have chosen to live, while at the same time happily and cynically playing the benefit system. Like it or not, the burqa is the outward and, to some, unacceptable face of a religion many people fear.

    The pendulum of tolerance has to be seen to swing equally in both directions. If apparently preferential treatment is given to one religion over another, there is bound to be hostility. It's not so long ago that a BA employee was removed from her position for refusing to take off the small silver cross she wore around her neck. In another case, a woman hospital worker was cautioned for causing offence by saying she would pray for a patient. Just like the burqa, these were external manifestations of religious belief, but those women were disciplined for demonstrating openly that they held religious views. Why, then, should the burqa be treated differently?

    If an individual categorised as a 'Westerner' visits the Middle East, for example, it's expected that the non-alcohol rule is observed and that Western behaviours and dress are modified out of respect for local observances. Those who ignore or flout these conditions are likely to encounter rough justice. So, it seems that in the Western world, women of Islam have the right to wear a burqa, but I, as a Western woman in an Islamic country, can't enjoy a glass of wine or greet a male friend with a kiss on the cheek. Why is that not discriminatory?

    If you choose to live in a particular country, it is your right and privilege to continue to live your life according to the rules of your religion in your own home and at your chosen place of worship. It is not your right to try to impose those rules on the wider community in your chosen country, and expect the members of that community to change to suit you. I have many Jewish friends, some of whom keep a Kosher house. When I visit them, I eat a Kosher meal. When they visit my home, I cook them fish and serve it on a paper plate. In other words, we adapt to our surroundings and everybody's happy.

  90. I agree with you. The customs and laws of a country should be respected by the"guests" of that country. The law had a due process that was followed and a representative majority of French citizens apparently support the passing of the law. I think your example that visiting a middle eastern country that has its own restrictions for Westerners that should be respected by visitors is relevant. Here is perhaps a humourous way of looking at the situation but in reverse. What if I defined nudism as a tenet of my religion, should I be allowed to promenade in the buff in public? Should this forbidding this act be seen as undermining freedom of religion? Not likely to pass muster in any country!

  91. Thank you to the above two anonymous writers for taking the time to post such thoughtful comments on this complicated and arguably personal subject. It seems that, however central the Islamic veil is to some Muslim women, when one chooses to live in or visit a country (in this case, France)that abides by laws based on a philosophy that does not support conspicuous public display of ANY religion (laïcité), those who wear burqas and niqabs must,like everyone else, abide by those laws. There are no grounds on which the Islamic veil may be an exception.

    Recognizing the importance of the veil to some Muslim women will encourage sensitivity in enforcing the upcoming law.

    I welcome other perspectives, observations, and questions.

    Thank you very much.

    Susan

  92. Dear Raisah,

    I welcome your response to the recent comments. How can wearing the Islamic veil in the deeply secular nation of France, with specific laws that prohibit wearing it, be justified? Help us understand your perspective.

    Thank you.

    Susan

  93. I support the ban, only because the French government's rationale makes perfect sense. In a country that does not view being French to be an issue of "color," but in culture, it welcomes everyone who seeks to live the French way of life. They do not spout platitudes of inclusion that aren't borne out by history. Because other nationalities are bound to the same restrictions, it is no discriminatory. People should seek to live in countries that have the same beliefs, or adjust to countries that welcome them, but want no part in the debate. Excellent article.

  94. Dear Anonymous,

    Thanks for your kind feedback about the article. Very interesting point regarding "color," a characteristic that is the primary source of discrimination in many countries. In France, I think you are saying, color is not an issue–it does not determine who is welcome or even define being French–"culture" and "wanting to live the French way of life" are what makes the French French. Everyone is "bound by the same restrictions." Very different from our country. Neither approach is better, just different.

    Thanks again.

    Susan

  95. This is an excellent article, diligently researched and thought provoking. My immediate reaction as an American, who deeply values freedom, living amidst American citizens who have become increasingly apathetic and recklessly give up individual freedoms seemingly without thought, was shock. My thought was, of course, the personal freedom of expression should be respected. Then, I read on.
    There is no simple answer and perhaps no absolutely correct answer. When in a country that is not my own, I am respectful of the culture and in fact, willing to observe and participate as fully as allowed with the dress, customs, foods, music, home stays because it is then that I learn the most about the people. It is in this type of interaction that I am familiarized with the similarities of humankind, which I believe builds bridges. It is my theory that if one is not actively engaging with the people of a locality, there is a tendency to observe all the ways in which we are different from one another, which is constructive only in building walls.
    Having visited France on a number of occasions has enhanced my desire to strive to live the "French way of life", or my perception of it, wherever I am. But does the "French way of live" mean working less, playing more, lingering over delicious meals with friends and family, wine with more than just dinner, coffee served with a small square of decadent dark chocolate enjoyed indulgently in an out door cafe while enjoying the colorful, fashionable, creative, playful yet impossibly thin French people, a diverse blend of melding cultures /ed moving through the course of their day? Isn't it most probable the "French way of life" is interpreted differently person to person.?
    As most know who have had the opportunity to live in another country, the living is far different from the visiting. Especially if the visiting is limited to role of the tourist. Take another look, perspective, if you will. Imagine you are a stranger is a strange land perhaps by desire, maybe as an act of desperation, or the means to a better life and education for you children. You then find that your customs, your religion, your culture, your traditions, all that you have known must be altered to fit this new society. In addition to learning a new language because, not only, are you not understood, you don't understand, you must learn to curtail your dress, to within the confines of your home or your place of worship. You have been a woman hidden from public view, always. Now, in this strange land, you are not allowed to be covered, to be shielded from view, to be anonymous. And it is meant to be "less revealing" of your "identity" in this strange new land. Unnerving, unsettling, this "understanding".
    the thoughts of a poor, wayfarin' stranger travelin' through this world of. . . .

  96. Salut, mes amis! This was great fun co-posting, although I know you did the lion's share of the work! The video – although a lot of work for you – is wonderful – and I especially love the bloopers section. I think I need to come to Madame Kolb for a lesson – my crêpes don't look as good as hers! But they tasted fantastique!
    A bientôt, j'espère! David

  97. Hi David,
    Many telephone calls, text messages, and emails later…voilà! So much fun….The bloopers highlight some of the fun that day. I hope our readers have as many laughs and that their crepes look as good as yours and Janine's! et oui, à bientôt, j'espère! Susan

  98. Oh la la, Janine que tu es supreme!
    La presentation est tres charmante et
    je ferai les galettes pour toutes les amies qui sont des gourmandes, mais aussi des gourmets.
    Merci pour la recette et j'espere que
    je reussirai les preparer a mon anniversaire,
    Monique

  99. Hi Monique,

    We are so glad that you enjoyed the blog. Janine's crepes are the best! And, she is a natural on film!

    Thanks for your comments.

    Best,
    Susan

  100. hejhej susan and janine — what a treat. the video brings the crepe to life! such a great idea. i may even try them!! global grammy

  101. Hi Global Grammy,

    I know you have traveled hither and yon and yet, I predict, these will be some of the best crepes you have had! So pleased to hear that you like the video!

    Thanks so much for writing!

    Best,
    Susan

  102. The Scent of a Crepe! I love it. St. Malo is indeed a special place, as is all of Normandy; Brittany, too. Mount St. Michel in fog at dusk may be unmatched.

    Great crepes on the streets of St. Remy de Provence, where Van Gogh still lives in a nearby institution for women. Remind me to tell you about crepes (you must supply the accents) in Avranches.

    Later, Lou

  103. Hi Lou,

    Perhaps there should be a crepe tour of France!

    Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts here and at the cafe!

    Best,
    Susan

  104. Un grand merci to Audrey, one of our readers, for catching the typo in the website mentioned above. To access the French government's website detailing the ban of face-covering Islamic veils, go to

    Of course, the ban has now gone into effect. We will update our readers when possible. Follow us on Twitter for up-to-date information.

    Susan

  105. Thank you, Wayfarin' Stranger for your comments highlighting the difficulties of living in another country. Like most controversies, there are two sides–and even more–to this story.

    Susan

  106. oooh Susan,

    One of my favorite memories of France is crepes; I am passing on the recipe to Katie in the hopes she will make some:-) Thank you!

    Best,
    Peter
    ppoole@metrocast.net
    Poole Piano Service
    RPT, Member Piano Technicians Guild
    Providing service to fine instruments full-time for 24 years

  107. Hi Peter,

    The next time you tune the piano, I will have some crêpes for you!

    Thanks for your note.

    Best,
    Susan

  108. Your posting reminds me of the rituals of growing up in England. In England and Wales crêpes are called pancakes. Their popularity in Wales perhaps suggests a Celtic connection with Brittany. An American-style pancake, or something very similar to it, is known as a Scotch pancake. Two facts about English pancakes/crêpes should be mentioned – one, they are eaten in the home (they would never have been seen in a restaurant) – and two, they are eaten only on one day during the year, Shrove Tuesday, known as Pancake Day. Traditionally, it was a way of using up rich foods like eggs, butter and sugar before the start of Lent on Ash Wednesday.

    When I was a child it was a celebration eagerly anticipated. My mother would do duty at the stove, always in command but severely pressed to keep up with her husband and sons who scoffed down the pancakes as soon as they came out of the pan. I’ve tasted many crêpes in France, but none to compare with those my mother made – but then, I’m outrageously biased.

    Her recipe was identical to Jeannine Kolb’s, except that melted butter, if used at all, would have replaced oil. The subsequent treatment though was rather different. To quote from the Penguin Cookery Book, published in 1946 – "When it is cooked … turn out on a piece of (grease-proof) paper sprinkled with sugar, and sprinkle the pancake with lemon juice … and roll up." A generous squeezing of lemon juice is of the essence – without it, I’d say, a pancake is not a pancake.

    Up and down the UK, particularly in England, further rituals are enacted on Pancake Day. To quote from Wikipedia – " On Pancake Day, pancake races are held in towns and villages across the country … Participants with frying pans race through the streets tossing pancakes into the air , catching them in the air whilst running. The most famous pancake race, at Olney in Buckinghamshire, has been held since 1445. The contestants, traditionally women, carry a frying pan and race to the finishing line while tossing the pancakes as they go. … Since 1950 the people of Liberal, Kansas, and Olney have held the "International Pancake Day Race" between the two towns along an agreed-upon measured course. After the 2000 race Liberal was leading with 26 wins to Olney’s 24."

    Let’s get together on 21st February, 2012, Shrove Tuesday, and we’ll celebrate by making pancakes – sorry, crêpes.

    Brian

  109. Great list of expressions. You might also add :
    Manger la grenouille – to eat the frog (to go bankrupt, to lose money)

    Cathy
    French online

  110. Hi Cathy,

    I love it! Sadly, it is a good one to know these days. I look forward to exploring your website, too. Feel free to post another comment describing your site as I am sure that our readers would be interested in checking it our!

    Thanks so much.

    Amitiés
    Susan

  111. Susan and Towny, I just re-read your post – and I was thinking that I should order Madame Kolb's book! What other gems are within?

    It is early on Saturday morning and I am (hélas!) out of crêpes. Domage. I had the last one before heading off to sleep last night, and filled it with the Chocolatl that you brought me from the market in California. It was so good that I will need to make a batch of crêpes soon to have more!

    Thanks again for sharing the recipe and the wonderful video!

    David

  112. Ah, other gems in Madame Kolb's book….My favorites include croque Messieurs à la crème, salade de carottes,madeleines, tartelettes aux pommes and tartelettes aux fruits. But, there are other very appealing recipes for simple soups, veggies, and dessert. The book was assembled with children in mind–the recipes are simple and there are photos of children cooking–making it a perfect gift for kids.

    But, I assure you that adults will find the recipes just as appealing–I know you know, but other readers may not know, that the French expect their children to eat a much wider range of food than we Americans expect of our children. I recall the menu at Alex's elementary school in Lourmarin, posted outside the entrance every week, was filled with lots of slow-cooked meats with sauces, fish with various sauces, soups of veggies Alex would have never considered edible,and always freshly cooked veggies. Bœuf bourguignon and bouché à la reine were on the menu! Thus, Janine's inclusion of soupe à l'oignon and tomates en paniers are not so surprising!

    I have to get more of that chocolate on my next trip to Carlsbad, California!

    We are making the savory crêpes from your last post on Cocoa and Lavender tonight!

    Susan

  113. (Lourmarin)
    Aix
    Isles Sur La Sorgue
    Carpentras
    Marseilles
    Arles
    Bonnieux
    Cassis
    Nimes
    Orange

    When we are travelling in your area, these are some of our favourite markets. I will send my contact information under separate cover…in case I win!!!

    We love the post!

    Ciao
    Bob and Sandy

  114. Hi Bob and Sandy,

    So good to hear from you! Your markets are noted and, of course, my lips are sealed! Do send your contact information.

    Many thanks!

    Susan

  115. Wow… such memories of our Market days in Lourmarin! Thank you for the incredible aromas, beautiful visuals and delectable flavors. Mark and I would love to be there now! While I may not venture to guess all nine markets (in addition to Lourmarin), I know you will be in Cucuron on Tuesday for M. Fromage! (Oh, qui'il est beau, ce mec la…!) For us, we would not miss the markets in Aix, Cucuron (perhaps my favorite in terms of beauty), Ile sur la Sorgue, the Arab market in Marseille and Cadenet. And while we didn't get to the markets in Gordes, Roussillon or Bonnieux, I would add them to my list because the towns are so beautiful that I can only imagine the markets would be, too! And just maybe I would have to hit the market in Cavaillon to pick up a few of those amazing melons… Again, thank you for taking us back there with this wonderful tour of the market in Lourmarin! Bisous, David

  116. Wouldn't it be wonderful to be sitting in La Bonbonnière courtyard, having just finished a dinner made from our market purchases?

    You know many of my market secrets…and, yes, M. Fromage in Cucuron is the place to buy cheese…not just for the cheese 😉

    bisous à toi!

  117. you have been busy again….it looks wonderful (and no, you're not biased) and while I'm printing it all out on the colour printer, I'm sending you a line or two….we'll be there on the 6th….and looking forward to too, as it's one of our favourite markets in la belle Provence….when are we having that glass or two or…of the local grapes?"

    PS! I bought several pieces of lovely clothes at 'the linen clothes' stall where I think you're featuring your good self….a few female colleagues have commented on how much they like the linen clothes I bring back from from la belle Provence, as we do not have clothes like this in the UK….love it, love it…."

  118. Hi Lis,
    We must have that elusive glass of wine sometime soon. I know you will soon be on your way to your lovely apartment– readers, note that Lis also rents her apartment, which my be viewed by clicking on Lis's name above–and I hope your travels are safe and that your stay is as magical as always.

    You must have some favorite markets…let us know!!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  119. Many thanks Susan – well for me I would have to start with….well that would be….

    Friday, the Lourmarin market, and no Susan, you're not biased, we love it, and I'm glad to say we'll be there very shortly….

    Saturday – Aix-en-Provence (some will say Apt, which is nice too, but we do love Aix, so…) but Uzes in the Gard is lovely too…and if you decide to visit Uzes, do make sure to visit the famous Pont du Gard, but whatever you age, maybe a little detour would be the Haribo sweet factory (your children will love you for it)….

    Sunday – l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, it's just wonderful, if not a little too busy at times, but that has never stopped us going (if you have small children, buggies are best avoided – or bring a light collapsible one)…and we'll soon be there again….after lunch do make sure to take the time to visit Fontaine-de-Vaucluse only a short drive away….

    Tuesday – Vaison-la-Romaine….on your way back make sure to visit Seguret and les Dentelles (= lace – and that's just what these rocks/mountains looks like) and if you like wine, that would be a silly question for most of us, well, then you'll find yourselves in the Gigondas region and wine is very much what it's known for, so enjoy….

    Wednesday – St Remy-e-Provence it's just lovely….and you could visit Les Baux de Provence on your way back….but park below Les Baux, as it's very expensive to park up and above….

    ….and then I'm back to – guess which place….well that would be Lourmarin….and it's Friday market once again – and that's here we'll go again, if we're in la belle Provence for 2 weeks….however, my hubby thinks that you can have the odd day off les marche….well, I'm not sure I agree with him, so I might just grab my French bag, camera and jump in the car and goexploring, as there might just be another wonderful march just down the road, which means another info to add to our BIG info folder in our apartment….

    Whatever you decide – enjoy as there are so many lovely markets in Provence….and do bring you baskets, as these will fill up very quickly with the best fresh produce there is – and do not forget your cameras, as the colours and objects/things are so wonderful, no wonder a 'few' painters found this part of France particular inspiring – just look up and there's that wonderful blue sky….it's called Provence….enjoy….

    Lis 🙂

  120. Lourmarin
    Cucuron
    Apt
    Aix
    Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
    Vaison
    Bonnieux
    La Tour d'Aigues
    Saint-Remy
    Arles

    Ciao,
    Richard H. of Kingston, RI (you know how to find me)

  121. 10 marketsin Provence are…
    1. Lourmarin on Friday.
    2. Isle sur la Sourue on Sunday
    3. Cucuron on Tuesday
    4. Aix en Provence
    5. Arles Wednesday and Saturday
    6. Gordes on Tuesday
    7. Apt on Saturday
    8.Roussillon on Thursday
    9. Sault on Wednesday
    10.Cassis on Wednesday and Friday

    I don't know if all of these are the best but it would be fun to go to them.

    Monte Dolack
    refuge@bigsky.net

  122. 10 markets in Provence are…
    1. Lourmarin on Friday.
    2. Isle sur la Sourue on Sunday
    3. Cucuron on Tuesday
    4. Aix en Provence
    5. Arles Wednesday and Saturday
    6. Gordes on Tuesday
    7. Apt on Saturday
    8.Roussillon on Thursday
    9. Sault on Wednesday
    10.Cassis on Wednesday and Friday

  123. Un gran merci à tout le monde! All wonderful choices…although not quite the ones we have chosen–with great difficulty–to feature! Try again! Only a few more hours!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  124. A question for our readers:

    Monte Dolack, who, with his wife, has stayed with us on two occasions, has asked about a good source for herbes de Provence source….any ideas? (See our earlier article on these herbes: http://bit.ly/f5cpv1 )

    I am inclined to agree with him that the best is, really, right from the market! We wonder if herbs de Provence –from Provence–would be a good item to make available for sale on our blog. Any thoughts?

    To learn more about Monte and his wife, both artists who often travel to France and paint, see our earlier post about him at http://bit.ly/gMG9ug

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  125. How timely! The past few weks I have been pouring over the reading material I have gathered about the Canal du Midi – Thanks for the photos and the delightful descriptions…Can't wait!

  126. This looks so delightful – and don't you love producing miracles from a kitchen like that?

    The haze in the air gives one the sense that it is other-worldly and also of another time… certainly a time when one should slow to a snail's pace making sure to enjoy every step and every bite along the way.

  127. Just to say Susan, thank you for sharing your memories of that Easter canal trip, I really enjoyed it. Happy Easter from Paul

  128. Part 1 of 2

    A lovely Easter surprise to open my email and find the recollections of this absolutely magical Easter celebrated 11 years ago on the Canal du Midi. You see, I was one of the 8 mates Susan describes.

    Over decades of friendship with Susan, one of my many blessings has been to travel with her and, later, with her husband and daughter. My family collectively can attest that many of our very favorite times have been spent with the Manfulls. Susan is a diligent researcher, (of course, you know that by now), a careful planner both for content (historic, delicious, artistic, intellectually stimulating or quirkily interesting) and logistics which is, in part, why, the story I am about to tell about how we spent one evening along the Canal du Midi, is so funny.

    One late afternoon after securing the barge and triple checking that we had done so, we left on foot, map in hand for a nearby (according to the map) "centre ville." Susan had read about a restaurant. Famous last words.

  129. Part 2 of 2
    The walk into town was longer than we had expected. The light had left the sky and the spring had left our steps before we spotted the "ville" still in the distance. I made a successful adult effort not to mimic their whines, but I did feel much like the youngest two – "do you know where we are going?" "you didn't say it was this far," "are we ever going to get there?" "I'm hungry."

    Once we reached the "ville", we found the "centre" deserted. Yes, deserted. And blocked off with construction equipment and plastic yellow tape. (The yellow tape did not read, "Crime Scene," some what ameliorating my rising anxiety.) No open businesses. No humans about. In fact, it seemed the town had been shut down for some time, maybe years. The shops all appeared empty with the feel of a ghost town. Suddenly, out of no where an old woman appeared. Her old dog eventually did too. I began to listen for the voice of Rod Serling.

    The elderly woman seemed not in the least inclined to help the lost group. Townyspoke fluently to the woman in her language and she reluctantly responded that the restaurant we were looking for was closed. “Can’t you see that everything is closed during this construction?” With a vague set of instructions and dismissive wave of the hand, she directed us to another restaurant that might be open. “Crazy Americans, “I am sure she muttered as she ambled off.

    During the time it took to reach our new destination, conversation had evaporated, our flashlights had dimmed along with our optimism and each of us silently wondered, "where are we?" "Will we eat tonight?" More importantly, "Where is the barge and how will we get back there?"

    In the distance we spotted lights. The spring returned to our steps. (Actually, we nearly ran for the restaurant.) Pushing open the doors, we entered with the hope that our hunger would be assuaged (and the kids would stop whining). But, alas, our hopes were dashed when we were informed that only the bar portion of the restaurant was open.

    But, here we find a common theme in a traveler's tale…someone comes to the rescue. A man, the local postman who was sitting on one of the stools at the bar, overheard the conversation and told us that there was only one restaurant still open. “It was not fancy,” he warned us. We told him that “fancy” was definitely not a prerequisite, but, I must confess, that I did begin to worry a little when he repeated several more times that it was not “fancy.”

    This kind stranger even offered us a ride. “Hmmm.” The adults assessed the situation.I suspect you can imagine the variables we considered. But, we quickly sized up the man, known by every one in the bar who were, by now, all focused on satisfying the needs of this wayward group. The patrons escorted us out to the parking lot and off we went, having only a nebulous idea of where the restaurant was located and really no idea how close it was to our barge. But it was not far; in fact, like all Americans who came of age in the 1970s, we were still looking for seat belts in the postman’s mail truck when we crossed the Canal and arrived.

    It was a truck stop. All the patrons were men. When we entered, every head in the place turned, all eyes focused on us. There was a moment of silence and then all the talking and laughter resumed. The kitchen reopened to prepare a hearty meal for the weary strangers. Cool beers raised, smiles shared, and conversations ensued. Our meal was delicious and enjoyed as meals in France are – leisurely and thoroughly – as if it had been hours earlier. It was not the Michelin rated restaurant we planned, but probably much more memorable.

    We walked back. The barge, still secured and welcoming, was not far. I fell into peaceful slumber gently rocked by the water's steady rhythm, smiling and content that all is right in the world.

    Thank you for the memories.
    Patti

  130. Congratulations to Richard H. of Kingston, Rhode Island! He correctly identified 6 of the 9 Markets of Provence that we will profile over the next few months. There are so many wonderful markets from which to choose that I know this was a difficult task! The markets were chosen on the basis of quality of the vendors, the venue itself, and practical reasons such as day of the week, parking and lay-out.

    The markets are:
    Cucuron
    Aix
    Apt
    Vaison
    Carpentras
    Saint-Remy
    Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
    Cadenet
    Gordes

    Watch for the posts to understand why we made these choices, although it was tough! Truly, it is hard to go wrong!

    Thank you to everyone who posted their entries here, who sent me emails, and who talked directly with me. It was great to hear your thoughts.

    Un gran merci,
    Susan

  131. I have never been to Provence, but this article sure tempts me to make plans for a trip! I didn't realize that there were Roman ruins there, too.

  132. I recall a wonderful day that started in Orange with a tour of the theater followed by a wonderful lunch in the square and then a late afternoon visit to the Pont du Gard. Truly an amazing day – one we will never forget. Maybe some year we can return for an opera performance… David

  133. Why no mention of the Brazilian forces involved, there's a plaque on the beach at Cap Estrel. I know their involvement sounds improbable, but they were there.

  134. Vernis said, "Reading this issue about the festival in Orange, made me want to hop on a plane and make my way to this inviting town. Oh, well maybe one day…"

  135. Lovely market! The photos are great. Thanks for this momentary escape to one of Provence's charming villages.

  136. Lovely pictures with which to reminisce! Have forwarded to my daughter who goes in July. Love your generous newsletter, for the short injections of the Luberon into staid English life, so thank you. Sometimes the longing to be back is almost unbearable!

  137. Absolutely love the markets – wish I could be there!

  138. I am a terrible cook, but all these markets make we want to get in there and try. Kathy

  139. This was, indeed, our favorite of all the markets we visited in Provence. Some may have been larger, but no other had the same charm as the Cucuron market. I think we will have to rent Le Hussard sur le Toit for a virtual visit back there!

    Thanks, Susan and Towny, for another great post about beautiful Provence!

  140. Great article and wonderful photos! Merci!

  141. Oh, to have a slice of that ham right now! Thanks again for a great post! I am going to spend some time today looking at all my photos of Ile-sur-la-Sorgue! I particularly loved how this market meanders through the streets of town – not just in one central area. David

  142. I agree, your article this week was fabulous. We need more time in Provence!!! Merci from Kathy in Angels Camp Ca.

  143. Wonderful to revisit Ile-sur-la-Sorgue with David's great photos and to also spend time on the Cocoa and Lavender site. Can't wait to try some of the recipes or to returen to Provence.

    Monte Dolack

  144. What a great blog today, a fine-dining treasure trove. The videos were great, and I'll favorite them so I can go back to them, and the lesson about Bastille Day was very informative. I always marvel at how much the French hold the US principles in such esteem, giving us the Statue of Liberty and the Keys to the Bastille. It would seem as though they really hold us to a standard above any other Western country. Fascinating.

    But I'm actually here to comment about the meal. I did not attend the dinner, but I'm happy to say that I was called up for leftovers as I'm a big chocolate mousse fan. The mouse was extraordinaire, some of the best I've had in the last 10 years. I love chocolate mousse and can always appreciate it whenever I eat it, in whatever texture, but I have to say that the texture of the mousse was perfect, and much like that at Le Patisserie, in DC, a French restaurant. I would walk up to the counter just to order mousse, and it was the gold standard. I think the Trobadors live up to the tradition. It was rich, but textured, so it didn't slide down your tongue, rather, you can actually let it sit and revel in its textures and taste. The cream and basil added another flavor, giving one 3 bites at the mousse. The fish was very light, with a slightly sweet taste, balanced with a light cream. I'm used to heavier, Asian salmon faire, but this was a treat, too.

    Great blog, Susan and Towny, my favorite so far! I'll be sure to visit your friend's blog, too.

  145. Pardon my misspelling. I've never eaten a "mouse" before, at least to my knowledge.

  146. Susan and Towny! What a great post – and I had so much fun co-posting with you! Your recreation of the menu is beautiful and it is fun to see how we both interpreted it. Am eating a salad today…. although leftover plum soup is calling my name!

  147. OMG! I forgot about the plum soup, the most miraculous dish of all! I let the Mousse go to my head. Here's my statement and I mean this: that dish is the most unique flavor that I have tasted in the last 20 years. It was so different than I could have ever expected, and the color of the dish, again, was a color one would not expect to come from mother nature. I still can't figure that one out. But if you don't try to make anything in the next year, definitely try the plum soup. I raved about it for 5 minutes and must have thought I had said enough already by the time I added my comments. It was divine, for lack of a better adjective.

  148. Every time I visit Provence I go to this market, the pictures here bring back some wonderful memories of this beautiful town, absolutely magical.
    Paul Bragg

  149. It would seem unfair to attempt to lock into a hierarchy the cascade of splendid meals we enjoyed in Provence, but certainly the memories of dining outdoors at Castelas in the dappled shade of the great chestnut tree with views over the fields and forests to the distant blue mountains is one of the most charming and memorable meals in my whole life, made all the more so by the rustic menu and witty company. – Mark

  150. I agree with Mark – it was truly one of the most memorable and spectacular (in the true meaning of spectacle) meals of my life. It proves what I have often said in my blog – that simplicity often is the best.

    The cheeses (all three generations), the thinly sliced cured ham and the green salad dressed so simply with oil, vinaigrette and salt provided our first real taste of Provence that day.

    And it was also that day when the different hues of rosé wine became obvious to me. Have you ever chosen a rosé solely but its color and how it will LOOK with your meal?

    Thank you for a wonder-filled post and a few moments of quiet remembrance of a very special day.

    David

  151. Thanks for the always interesting articles. We can never get too much information about one of our favorite parts of France. However what about the food? In addition to the cheeses, how was the meal? What did you eat and was it good?

  152. The food was wonderful! I suppose it was a "light" lunch in that it was just the cured ham, salad, chevre,baguette, and dessert, but it was perfect and we left feeling quite satisfied! We have not been for dinner which, I gather, is more substantial. As Mark and David wrote, in the above two posts, Le Castelas is definitely worth a visit!

    Thanks for the question AND for your kind feedback!

    Susan

  153. I have heard about this place from our dear friends, the Kinzels. We've always wanted to go there and now we have even more motivation. Thanks!!

  154. wonderful piece — my mouth is watering and i can just about smell the cheeses (and the animals!!). what a great experience. lovely photos as well and the map is wonderfully informative. all in all — a super post!!

  155. This lovely article with great photos to match just makes one want to follow, or even join you in this beautiful trip, I really enjoyed it

  156. We are just moments – literally – back from Tuscany and Rome and wish we were on our way to Provence… for the market at Apt, for the comfort and beauty of Lourmarin, for the produce, the wine, the cheese, the honey… I love this post because it enlivens each memory I had of our trip to Provence. I can feel, hear, taste, smell and see everything so clearly!

    I can't wait to cook some petite epautre – soup comes to mind as it is getting chilly in the desert. (we have VERY different standards for what "chilly" means here! It is all the way down to 60 this morning!!)

    And, as I sit on a chair in the front courtyard, I wish we could get a set of this cushions to soften our morning time in the garden.

    Thank you, Susan, for this – for the memories of past visits and the dreams of future visits!

  157. Susie and Towny,
    This was definitely my favorite Trobadors to date. I loved the APT Market !! It looked like an excellent way to spend the whole day !! The Atelier Buisson-Kesslar Pottery is so whimsical and fun. I'd like to try the Fruit Confit and the Petet Espeautra grain. Iguess I'd like to eat my way through the whole market , but,in vulgar terms that would be a "Gut buster" !!
    MMN

  158. Wow – these are wonderful! They have a charm that is almost describable – yet naïf seems to work so well! I must admit to two favorites – Les Melons and Marseilles – Vieux Port! I wish I could be there to do the rounds with you, Susan!

  159. I wish I could transport you two–for your company but,also, because you could enrich my experience with your vast knowledge of art! The web site does not include all of the paintings, but it does give one a feel for all the wonderful work that makes up the exhibition. The paintings make you smile, don't they?

  160. Hi David and Mark,
    We cannot wait to hear about what you come up with for the epeautre! We wish we had gone to this market when you were here….la prochaine fois, oui?

  161. Hi MMN! You would love the market in Apt and all the rest of them here, too. I so wish you would come over with us! Thanks so much for your post! SVP, post again!

  162. susan — just spent the better part of 30 minutes perusing your art show post. i'm for sure going to look into these painters more fully. some of them remind me of a "primitive" artist, vesty davis, who painted NYC and Coney Island themes. again with little people and great color. this post was great. thanks and continued enjoyment of the show whilst you are there. global grammy

  163. What I loved most about these – and what brought a smile to my face even before looking at the subject – was the free and untethered use of color. You mentioned the light in the Brazilian pieces, but they all have a great glow about them. Until really looking at this, my only experience with this style of art had been Grandma Moses, and her colors were so dark,depressing and murky… But, considering the New England weather, I can't blame her! And light? There was none! I never recall a GM painting that showed shadows proving that there was sun!

    And then the subjects – la vie quotidienne! That is what makes them so special… the fact that they aren't really special at all! Thank you again for this post, and for wishing we were there with you! We are, I'm spirit!

    Bisous, D (my iPad wants to turn bisous into Byalis!)

  164. Uh, that should have been, "we are, in spirit!"

  165. Hi Global Grammy,
    So glad you enjoyed the post. I looked up Vesty Davis and his work seems to be the very same style….remarkably similar. Thanks so much for mentioning him!
    So good to hear from you!

  166. C&L, So funny to read your comments about Grandma Moses. Imagine had she lived in Tucson!

  167. How much fun it would be to be in Loumarin for Jacqueline Bricard's NAIF art exhibit !!

    The NAIF artwork combines simplicity with elegance. The people are so sweet and innocent.The picnic scene is reminiscent of a bygone era when pleasures were simple and people were less sophisticated and more civil.
    It is like a breath of fresh air that encircles us with nostalgia and leaves us with a happy memory of the way we were.

  168. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  169. patricia henricy cruzalegui October 26, 2011 at 7:12 pm

    Beautiful, congratulations.

  170. The anonymous contributer who wrote that the naïf style artist combines simplicity with elegance is exactly right! Most artists of this style do try to draw us in with the simple pleasures of life. I am still thinking about so many of those paintings!

  171. Thank you to Patricia Henricy Cruzalegui! It was such a pleasure to write this piece! Such beautiful work and interesting people!

  172. Susan, I just visited the exhibit in Lourmarin and was very impressed. I love the paintings you selected. One painter that you did not discuss in your article, that I really liked, was VERCRUYCE. I particularly like "Entre Chats". The brushwork was very detailed–the photos do not do them justice! Thanks for covering the exhibit, glad I went!

  173. We felt the same way about Lourmarin when we first visited in 1996. We have been back several times since then to visit our good friends, Paul and Françoise Kinzel. My sister and her husband, Harrell and Paul Scarcello, were so smitten when they first visited Lourmarin that they have returned at least once every year since 1997!

  174. Can't believe a year has passed since we were there! Loved the pictures of the town. Brought back some fond memories. Terri

  175. i am ready to check in and spend lots of time there. wonderful piece — it really captures the place — i think having not been there — but surely makes me want to go. thanks susan for such a lovely travel story.
    global grammy

  176. Just by accident I found your website this evening, as I was browsing through the "naif" paintings exhibited by Jacqueline Bricard. We had seen them in person, but wanted to review and see which had already been purchased!
    We discovered Lourmarin in the fall of 2005, were totally smitten and returned in spring of 2006. Not really intending to buy a vacation home, but wondering if there were places for sale within our budget, we bought the second apartment we saw and have been part-time Lourmarinois ever since. It seems to be an exceptional town, and even though we appreciate many other villages in Provence, we're always happy to return and happy we chose Lourmarin to live in.
    I'm delighted to have found your website and will definitely sign up. Maybe we will even meet sometime, Susan.
    Merci.
    Judy Whiteman

  177. What a perfect way to describe Lourmarin – through the eyes of one who loves it and through the eyes of one who leads it. And loves it. His love of the village is the perfect platform from which to lead. We, too, felt the immediate welcome and dream of our return trip. Perhaps we will even have the opportunity to meet Mayor Diagne! Merci mille fois, Susan and Towny!

  178. Karen & Michael Winnick November 7, 2011 at 2:47 pm

    Thanks for your beautiful story. We were in Lourmarin in 2010 and fell in love with it. We hope to return again soon. In the meantime, we enjoy reliving Provence by enjoying your articles.

    Merci,

  179. I have great affection for the Cadenet market, as it was our first market in Provence.

    When wrote about seeing your vegetable vendor in Cucuron, it reminded me that in both Provençal and Tuscan markets, the vendors travel from town to town. And, if you know the right schedule, you can visit with the same vendors on a daily basis.

    It is similar to revisiting a restaurant – when the proprietor sees you returning often, you develop a friendship of sorts. You get a bit more special service, and perhaps a homemade cordial after dinner on the house.

    In the markets, in addition to a smiling face and the greetings of friends, they might tip the scales a bit in your favor, or toss in an extra beautiful, ripe tomato. But, this isn't done to increase their business – it is done from the warmth of their hearts.

    Would that we were there today in Cadenet, Cucuron, or Lourmarin…

  180. Susan,
    Delightful post! I also love the French pharmacy and always make a few trips there just to browse.
    Your weekly letter is great for information and entertainment. I can't wait to get bavk to Provence!
    Best regards,
    Elle

  181. Many thanks, Susan, for the informative article on the Pharms. Didn't know that about them. We wish we were back there now!
    FS & Judy

  182. Wonderful article, Susan. Vraiment superbe! I wish I could be there, too. Love the photographs by Pierre. Does the Pharmacy have something to cure the addiction to pharmacies?

  183. Mon dieu! I am already in love with Balsofumine and I jphave never even tried it. Have you looked to see of it is available stateside? You asked if this had been something we discussed but I wish we had!

    And I love all the phrases… Especially the one about the figuier!

    As you love the pharmacies, I equally love the hardware stors!

    David

  184. Dear Susan,
    Wow!! After reading your piece about French Pharmacies, I'm ready to pack my bags!
    Who wants to squeeze tomatoes or sample wine when the most entertaining place can be just around the corner from the fruit stand. Who knew?
    I'm sure I could spend the whole day in a Pharmacie and not because of illness!!

    Thanks for such a great article(your best yet).
    Please keep pushing to bring more French type Pharmacies to our neighborhoods.
    Kudos from MMN

  185. Thanks to everyone for their feedback! It's so much fun to hear your thoughts! I had a lot of fun writing this piece on pharmacies; but, when I finished, I said to Towny, "I wonder if anyone else will be interested." Wow– you were! The posts here reflect just a small portion of the feedback I received through all avenues of communication. Thanks to all of you for posting publicly!
    Kindest regards,
    Susan

  186. Oh, to be back at Les Deux Garçons again… As you say, the food is wonderful but the ambiance is something that you cannot get elsewhere… a trip back in time, bien sûr! When they make the movie of "Midnight in Aix," I will be among the first at the Box Office! Thanks, Susan – a wonderful post with lovely memories (yours AND ours!)

  187. Susan, I am regularly delighted with your "Modern Trobadors" subject matter but I gotta tell you…you really hit a home run with this one. Great approach, great writing, nice photos…I especially liked the one with Pam and D'Agneau!
    I had a good chuckle when I tried to picture you and Pam trying to sit together under a canapé though…I suspect you meant canopy? C'est vrai?
    Do you ever get to Provence in the real winter?
    Linda Amstutz

  188. Hi Linda,

    Thanks so much! The image of Pam, D'Agneau and me huddled beneath a small sandwich is too funny! I have corrected the error (so, no, dear readers, you will not find canapé in the text any more!).

    Yes, we do get over to Provence in the winter sometimes. I will keep my fingers crossed for this one!

    Thanks again!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  189. Memories…Kudos on the article. I learned much but to me 2G is the Manfull family, from our lunch the first day I moved to Provence to celebrating our last hurrah at the Bonbonniere and everything in between (including meeting you at Les Deux in the exploding Panda!) …it's the laughter we will remember…la da da da da da da

  190. Hi Susan,

    And I think Pablo Picasso should be played by Bruce Willis!

    cheers from Aix and environs, Jan

  191. lovely read — and interesting facts. it is so nice to see such pleasant and non-consumer christmas traditions. happy wheat growing!!

  192. We must pass this on to our own Barbara – I wonder how much she knows about her namesake! She does know about lightning, as we visited the mission in Santa Barbara together. (We have a milagro of Santa Barbara on our front door to protect our home from lightning.)

    And the santons are so sweet – I have never seen them before!

    Thanks, Susan, for another lovely post! Bonnes fêtes! David

  193. I grew up in a household that used the term "creche", which now seems unusual as we weren't French. Further, in francophone New England the term seemed not to be known. I wonder how we came to use the french term. Anyway, it was a sign of coming Christmas to set it up. We'd add the baby Jesus on Christmas Eve upon returning from church, and the three wise men bided their time on an adjacent bookshelf until January 6th, and there it stayed through Epiphany though all other Christmas paraphernalia was removed from the house on January 5. Fond memories of childhood. — Mark

  194. Susan, thanks to your note and the poster you left for us at la Bonbonnière, we visited Mme. Bricard's gallery and also the exhibition at the Chateau–wonderful! She certainly is an enthusiastic booster of art naïf, and we had two delightful conversations with her. Thanks for tipping us to this exhibit!

  195. I enjoyed this, Susan. Thank you! – Kirsten

  196. Susan,
    Re your words to describe Les Deux Garcons and the Lost generation of the 1920s.
    "Ah, to be young enough and lucky enough to live in Aix" May I add:Or old enough to remember the Lost Generation of the 1920s!

    Our generation must be content to sit in the same seats that were once occupied by the rich and poor famous people of those days.

    Now we can just imagine what these famous ghosts surounding us would have ordered.

    Les Deux Garcons holds all those precious memories and secrets and guards them protectively, while we can only speculate.
    MMN

  197. Susan – what a delightful take on verrines! I love the photos, and it is fun to see all your glassware and china! I look forward to sharing a few with you and others, as well as a look at the perfect vessels for these exquisite starters. In the New Year, after verrines, we can get into cuillères (Fr.) or cucchiai (It.): spoons! – David

  198. Cool idea–but where can we buy verrine glasses?

  199. Loved this post and will use my imagination to create verrines next time I have a dinner party. I am sure Cocoa & Lavender will help with the inspiration!

  200. Aloha, Susan. I also had the same airplane cold and the same wonderful pharmacy visit in Lourmarin. Our pharmacist spoke very good English, too, so I didn't have to use my rough french. He supplied me with wonderful products that put me on track within a day or two. Thank you so much for your articles. We so enjoy them as you put us back in the quaint streets, sipping an apero, late afternoon at Cafe Gaby. Lovely. Lennie & Doug

  201. Finally, something new and fun has come along, that is "new" to most of us. Of course I'm referring to Verrines!!
    I have often wished I could have "just a bite" of everything.
    Who hasn't been tempted to steal a "bite" from someone elses plate?
    Now,to twist an idiom,instead of "taking the "bite" OUT of food, we can concentrate on putting the "bite" INTO food, making a fun dining experience.
    Thanks, Susan for making our mouths water for change and not the same old tastes !!
    MN

  202. I moved from my home in France (after twenty years there) and did it all by par la poste. The only exception was a painting that was too large so it came by another carrier. I mailed about 30 boxes over a period of two months and by the time I mailed the last one, I was "tu" to all the clerks. When I went back to Riberac the next time (18 months later) I was greeted warmly by the staff who were pleased to learn that all the packages had arrived safely (though not in the order in which they were posted).
    When I returned this summer (3 1/2 years after moving) I found that the post office had been remodeled and that all the clerks I knew had been replaced.Dommage!

  203. SOOOO excited! Père Noël just gave me an early Christmas gift some Balsofumine and an inhalateur!!! Might I be breathing better in 2012???

  204. Wonderful post on a wonderful topic! We had New Year's Eve dinner with good friends in Carmel Valley. The majority of the evening was spent at the ding table, eating delicious food and discussing films, psychotherapy, travel, design, and New Year's resolutions. Truly an evening that will be wrapped in in the silk of memory.

  205. Hi Kirsten,
    That sounds like a dinner I would have loved! May your 2012 unfold as your 2011 ended, with more dinners with good friends…in Lourmarin, too! Thanks for your lovely note.
    Best,
    Susan

  206. What a gr8 article! Makes me want to call all of my friends, go to the store, get plenty of food, and have a feast!!! Thanx 4 the memories. And the motivation. jcn

  207. To all those who enjoyed this piece on verrines, do check out Cocoa and Lavender (see link above) for beautiful photos and great recipes!

    And, to those of you wondering what glasses to use for verrines, Cocoa and Lavender provides more ideas. We do have a limited supply of verrine sets for sale. Write to me directly if you are interested.

    And to MN, I couldn't agree more about the beauty of having just a bite of something! It is fun!

    Thanks to everyone for your interest!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  208. Having recently vacationed in Scotland (as well as Provence) and sampled traditional Scottish dishes, may I suggest that you take a look at the traditional Scottish dessert known as cranachan. Cranachan is indeed served like a verrine, in a tall glass so that the layers are exposed to view. Essential ingredients are raspberries, toasted oatmeal, whisky (of course), honey, and whipped cream, and in the classic version will consist of layers, from the bottom up, of whole raspberries, cream whipped with honey and whisky, cream lightly whipped with crushed raspberries to give a marbled effect, more cream whipped with honey and whisky, toasted oatmeal (soaked in whisky and lightly mixed with cream), finished with another layer of whole raspberries. Other layers of differing colors and textures may also be introduced and some hosts will bring the differing ingredients to the table in separate bowls so that the diners may fill their glasses with their own version of cranachan.

    Brian.

  209. Susan and Towny,

    Merci bien pour 'The Modern Trobadors.'

    Et Bonne Année¡

    -Henry

  210. Je vous en prie, Henry!

  211. What a wonderful review – I can't wait to read the book! After reading Gopnik's first book, I searched all over Paris – and on line – for a copy of that wonderful illustration of the train taking off – "Paris to the Moon." Never did find it.
    Your pictures are lovely – thank you for sharing – and Bon Appetit for 2012!

  212. I received Adam Gopnik's book as a Christmas gift. It was the perfect gift at the perfect time. As I cook Moroccan food for my own wedding, (yes, the Moroccan caterers in DC did not measure up), I understood, thanks to the book, why I am going to so much trouble. Food, prepared as a ritual for friends and family, is definitely in my makeup as an American woman raised in France. I can hardly wait for my guests to try my "poulet aux olives et au citron confit." I cooked Provencal dishes for Christmas and was amazed at the similarities with Moroccan food. There again, Gopnik is there with the connections. Read Gopnik and you too will discover from where these deep impulses originate. I wish I could invite him to the wedding.

  213. Dear Wanda,
    So good to hear from you….I, too, love that drawing. I went back to the book to refresh my memory of the illustration when I read your note. I love Gopnik's line about the drawing, certain that "If a train were going to run to the moon, that train would originate from the Gare du Nord, with Parisian kids getting worn out while they waited." Thanks so much for your thoughts!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  214. Hi Lisa,
    You make us all want to attend your wedding and join your table with all that Moroccan food! The scents are wafting from my screen! A wedding that starts in the kitchen sounds like it is off to a grand start!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  215. I wonder if I might ask what restaurant you are in — I assume that is you pictured with the chef and a woman who I imagine is his wife. They look very familiar to me. Paris? A most enjoyable post and I shall look forward to reading the book. Thank you.
    Thanks, Henry Waverly

  216. After preparing, cooking, serving, eating, and clearing three meals per day for five days for 10 people over Christmas (3 adult children, their partners, and two teenagers belonging to the partner of one of the adult children – are you with me so far?) we decided a long New Year's Eve dinner was a step too far – so we had sausages and mashed potatoes, with onion gravy, accompanied by a bottle of Moet, in front of the fire in our house in Lourmarin. Unorthodox? Perhaps…..Enjoyable? You bet!

    Cordialement
    Jenny

  217. Susan! Bonne Année! It is wonderful to read your post while sitting in our garden… seeing photos of us around the table with you, Towny and Alex, remembering those (and many other) wonderful meals we have shared, and thinking ahead to all the meals we have yet to share! Quelle joie!  

    As I have just begun reading Gopnik's book, I really appreciate "reading" it through you. The quotes you have chosen resonate deeply within me, and my favorite is the one about hosts not being ready when guests arrive. Mark and I are often SO ready – pots, pans and sink throughly cleaned – that guests think they have arrived on the wrong evening! Perhaps we should invite Adam (can I be so familiar?) to dinner when you visit later this month?!

    Thanks, as ever, for your thoughtful and interesting posts. Wishing you, Towny and Alex a wonder-filled New Year! ~ David

    PS – thanks for the Cocoa and Lavender plug!

  218. Our family dinners were festive occasions. Our hard times were behind us and we had a comfortable lifestyle.

    My dad had a job he dearly loved. He was a supplier to most of the wineries in northern California. Thus we had an adequate supply of wine around the house at all times.

    Our dinners were always with wine and candlelight. No matter how meager or elaborate the meals may be, they were always served with candlelight and wine.

    While dinners were not command performances, no one ever wanted to miss the ritual.

    As a result, we grew up with the proper table manners and the proper attire and the importance of punctuality.

    Thank you, Susan for helping us remember the good times. MMN

  219. Susan, What a great article! Growing up, we spent most Sundays having dinnner at our house, my grandparents' house, or my aunt and uncle's house. I love having my grantparents' dining room set to remind me of those dinners. We always enjoy dinners at your house. The food, the conversation, etc. are all wonderful. We love being included. I always look forward to dinner with you, Towny and Alex.

  220. Aughhh, Jenny! The table comes first is probably best balanced with the sentiment that likens house guests to fish…sausages, mashed potatoes and gravy with champagne around the fire in Lourmarin sounds divine! Gopnik would have had spicy rice and beans! Thanks for the funny story! best regards, Susan

  221. David and Mark, So funny you should mention that particular quote because i thought of you two when i read it! Of course, we lie at the other end of the cotinuum and I shutter to think what Gopnik would think upon arrival at our house! I wonder where Adam, as you say, will be in late January….hmmm. My best regards, Susan

  222. You are so right, MMN, the simplest meals can be the most appreciated and memorable. (See Jenny's sausage and mashed potato story above! ) It seems that those meals are very vivid memories for you–how lucky you are. I wish I could have dropped by your family dinners! My best regards, Susan

  223. Ah, Ellen, thank you….likewise, we thoroughly and always enjoy our meals at your house–outside on your deck or around your grandparent's table. Mentioning the provenance of your table reminds me how much pleasure I get from using dishes passed on from my family and from my husband's and those that are gifts from friends. When i set the table, i think, for example, of my mother and father who gave me a set of china that was a wedding gift to them and now frequently graces our table. Thanks so much for your thoughtful comments. My best regards, Susan

  224. Dear Henry, Thank you for your favorable comments. Regarding the name of the restaurant, I am embarassed to report that I cannot recall it and cannot–yet–find my notes. It is on the left bank. The night was New Year's Eve 2001. I will keep looking….now I want to know! Check back, please. My best, Susan

  225. Sharon and family January 3, 2012 at 10:29 pm

    Last night my daughter and I enjoyed Midnight in Paris. We had wanted to see it for sometime, but after your suggestion, we quickly put it in our queue at Netflix. Now we are even more excited about our upcoming trip, if that's possible!

    I'm not familiar with Adam Gopnik or his writings, but my daughter is. I will check it out! I love the photo of the adorable children around the dinner table. It reminds me of how we will be working on our p's and q's at the dinner table from now until we arrive in France!

    Thanks again Susan! I have a new reason to enjoy Monday's with your blog.

  226. A wonderful post! I'm sorry I missed seeing Adam Gopnik at the Music Hall but now inspired to buy his book. "Those were the days" when aunts, uncles and grandparents would gather at my parents' house for dinner, and I can still hear the stories and howls of laughter. And now, there's nothing I love more than squeezing friends around my table for good food, good conversation and merriment. Your photos reflect what must be very happy memories. – Doreen

  227. As so many of your readers have written, hanging around the table, eating good food, drinking a little wine with those we really like…it doesn't get any better. I pity the people who are in too much of a hurry to stop and come to the table….they don't know what they are missing. Gerrry

  228. What a beautiful feeling in this post (blog)- the lavish table and lots of friends and then seeing me in a couple of them! What a nice surprise. I also wish you three a wonderful 2012 and look forward to being together at the table soon. It was so nice to see Townie at Mary's concert.
    Lots of love,
    Eva

    ps though I do read Adam Gopnik in the New Yorker, haven't read his books. You inspire me to at least rent it from the library!

  229. Henry, you asked where the photo of us with the Chef was taken and it was at Chez Gramond (5 Rue Fleurus, 6eme Paris). The restaurant is a Paris institution and was, purportedly, a favorite hang-out of Mitterrand when he was still with us. The restaurant is very small (6 or 7 tables)and is entirely run, from kitchen to table, by a couple. The wife, Jeannine, manages the dining room while her husband, Jean-Claude, does all the cooking. I had his signature dish, civet de lièvre à la Française (a dark, deep rabbit stew prepared with red wine and finished with hare's blood) and for dessert we had his famous Grand Marnier soufflé. It was a memorable meal and evening. If you go to Paris, do seek it out…you won't be disappointed.

  230. I, too, am half way through my (ahm, signed) copy that you sent to me for Christmas. I love it and don't want to finish. Like a good meal. Strange seeing myself in some of these photos as there are a few that I don't remember. I do, however, remember so many of our dining and cooking experiences AND experiments. There is no one with whom I have enjoyed the planning, preparing, and savoring of a meal more than with you. Too bad we don't have photographic evidence of me (strangely enough) at you engagement dinner! And thanks to your Grandfather, I will always think of an Old Fashioned as the perfect pre-dinner coctail. I'm glad that you included Gopnik's quote concerning loved ones missing from the table. I so frequently think of my father when food shopping or cooking or eating. And I'm just mad as hell that he's not here to enjoy the things he loved. And he was our sticky bun chef! …Thank you again for the wonderful read and this blog. Mille bisous. p.s. love the pic of Pierre!

  231. mmmmmmmmm. Would love some of that soup right now!

  232. Oh! I miss it.

  233. It is funny, but wherever Mark and I go, we end up recording the sound of the church bells at festivals and holy days. Bell ringing moments are often those we remember most vividly from our travels: the noontime bells in asan Gimignano that sent the swallows from the towers and into the sky to dance – the incredibly spiritual feeling we had when the bells of St. Anne de Beaupré rang while we walked amongst the Stations of the Cross on the hillside in Québec – sitting in the gardens at the National Cathedral in DC and hearing the change-ringing – the bells of the Duomo in Arezzo sending a blessing to the jousters about to spar.

    I am thrilled that Notre Dame will be getting her new bells – it's high time!

  234. My iPad didn't allow me to proof and change things – that was to have been San Gimignano! Also, I wanted to say that a trip to hear the new bells would be a fun adventure, eh?

    ~ David

  235. Hi David,
    We, too, attend to the bells and often feel quite moved by them. I gather that you fall into the camp that supports replacing the discordant bells with bells that will ring out with a more authentic sound….me, too! And, yes, it would be so much fun to be there when they are "unveiled." We were there when the euro was introduced, why not the Notre-Dame bells?–they will undoubtedly be around a lot longer than the euro!

    My best,
    Susan

  236. why nine new bells?, not necessary. 9 new bells should be when notre dame turns 900 years old!
    from Janine, in cloudy Florida

  237. Hi Janine,
    Good idea! Maybe 50 more years is just too much cacophony to bear!
    Amitiés,
    Susan, in sunny (and now vacant!) New Hampshire

  238. Can't tell you how much I love your blog..the variety is amazing, always something interesting. Well done…Jan Sommer

  239. Hi Eva,
    Our meals around Mary's table that weekend were some of my most memorable…and indeed the occasion of a mutual friend turning 80 is worthy of many meals around the table! (We seemed to think so, at least!)
    My best,
    Susan

  240. Thanks, Towny. I hope Henry checks back to read your reply. It was a great way to usher in 2002. I recall being especially warmly welcomed, being on the heels of September 2001. And, yes the soufflé alone would be worth a visit!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  241. Hi Doreen,
    Do buy the book–it is a terrific read! It is a good thing we love to "squeeze friends around [the] table," as in these 18th century homes, we have little choice but to squeeze in, eh?!
    Thanks for your comment and I will look forward to your next post on Cocoa and Lavender!
    My best,
    Susan

  242. Dear Gerry,
    My sentiments exactly! That seems to be a common theme in the comments as well as emails I have received: let's slow down and enjoy the food and the company around the table! Families who do so are healthier and I have a suspicion they are happier!
    Thanks for your input!
    My best,
    Susan

  243. Hi Sharon,
    I am so glad you enjoyed Midnight in Paris! Watching it made me really want to go to France! I know you are going soon–I will send the names of some other movies you and your family may enjoy, as you get in the mood for Provence and Paris…and all that good food!! (Lucky you!)
    Thank you for your comments!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  244. Dear Pam and D'Agneau,
    How many times have we sat 'round the table over all these years…nearly 40?! (Years, that is…Lord know how many tables?)

    I will always remember Thanksgiving with your parents and sisters and their families–I had never seen shrimps so large nor had so much fun playing board games–and I know your dad is indeed mad as hell!

    Let's toast to food and those important people with whom we share it!

    Bises,
    Susan

  245. Thanks, Jan! I so enjoy hearing about your European adventures! My best, Susan

  246. Susan – I’m tempted to comment on “the table” post at last as so many, including my friends, have done, and I’d like to share with you my favorite meal from the whole of literature (as I know it). To Dickens then. David Copperfield is starting out in the world and has just moved in to his first apartment and, to celebrate the occasion, he invites to dinner his ex-landlord, the great-hearted Mr. Micawber and his wife, and his friend Traddles. The landlady is to provide the meal, but the evening starts badly.

    “The leg of mutton came up very red within, and very pale without, besides having a foreign substance of a gritty nature sprinkled over it, as if it had had a fall into the ashes ……. “
    Mr. Micawber suggests if David …..
    “could produce a gridiron, I would put it to you that this little misfortune could be easily repaired. There was a gridiron in the pantry, on which my morning bacon was cooked. We had it in, in a twinkling, and immediately applied ourselves to carrying Mr. Micawber’s idea into effect. The division of labour …… was this: Traddles cut the mutton into slices, Mr. Micawber ….. covered them with pepper, mustard, salt, and cayenne, I put them on the gridiron, turned them with a fork, and took them off, under Mr. Micawber’s direction, and Mrs. Micawber heated, and continually stirred, some mushroom ketchup in a little saucepan. When we had slices enough done to begin upon, we fell-to, with our sleeves still tucked up at the wrists, more slices spluttering and blazing on the fire, and our attention divided between the mutton on our plates, and the mutton then preparing.
    What with the novelty of this cookery, the excellence of it, the bustle of it, the frequent starting up to look after it, the frequent sitting down to dispose of it as the crisp slices came off the gridiron hot and hot, the being so busy, so flushed with the fire, so amused, and in the midst of such a tempting noise and savour, we reduced the leg of mutton to the bone ….. I am satisfied that Mr. and Mrs. Micawber could not have enjoyed the feast more, if they had sold a bed to provide it. Traddles laughed as heartily, almost the whole time, as he ate and worked. Indeed we all did, all at once, and I dare say there never was a greater success.”

    These paragraphs are lodged in my mind. No matter the food. What matters? – the fun, the friendship, the sharing. In your house, Susan, as in mine, the table is a couple feet from the stovetop.

    Brian

  247. I love that story told in the comment above. Every time I think about it, I smile. thanks so much for sharing it!
    Best regards,
    Susan

  248. Cher Brian,
    Even really crispy mutton could taste wonderful among friends. Let's not try it, but we know our conversations and laughter would be what counted.
    My best,
    Susan

  249. That beagle is so cute!

  250. somehow my morning oatmeal is not what i want this am — shirred eggs with truffles would for sure fit the bill. what a great piece — thanks for it. enjoy your meal!! global grammy

  251. I am now thinking that I will head to the store to see what they have in the way of Oregon truffles for dinner tonight! Some year, I will definitely get to Provence for the black truffle festival and then, in another year, to the white truffle festival in Alba, Italy! For now, though, I will live vicariously – yet again – through your wonderful post! Fantastic photos of the Wells Memorial Library, truffle products and the soup! And wonderful memories of our Babette's Feast dinner long ago… and the truffled Madeira sauce on the quail… ~ David

  252. Hi Susan- Very inspiring- I wonder where I could find truffles in nyc- maybe Zabars? Your daughter's drawing of Notre Dame is just extraordinary for an 11 year old! I loved reading this post. Thanks!

    Best,

    Eva

  253. I have but one question for you: why didn't you take us to visit M. Durand when we were in Provence? Seriously, this seems a great reason to return! The combinations of flavors you mention has me practically drooling on my iPad… Thanks for a lovely post – keep us abreast of the recipes you make from his cookbook! ~ David

  254. David, Definitely a reason to return! But, in the mean time, my mother wants to send a few chocolates with me when I drop by your home! ~Susan

  255. How fortunate were we that your mother kindly shared some of her Joël Durand chocolates with friends in Tucson??  My favorite  was "L" for lavender – what a perfect little chocolate!  Thanks for sharing both your post and your chocolates – just lovely!

  256. I want these………..
    Robin

  257. Hi Robin,
    I understand…. But you can get them! Read the next blog!
    Best,
    Susan

  258. What a pleasant surprise to receive a box of these wonderful chocolates on my birthday !!

    They are truly unique and fun to eat. They can be savored slowly to let the chocolate and the flavor combine, or eaten quickly to get on to the next ! Either way, they are delicious.

    My personal favorites are: Y- Coffee and Barley, N-Hazelnut Praline, or B- Anise with it's clean flavor and after taste.

    Thank you Susan, Towny and Alex for a terrific Birthday treat. Marilyn

  259. I love his chocolates and the beautiful shop! I always bring some home.

    Mary Norcross

  260. Susan – there is so much information here that I never knew! I hope – I know – you will enjoy your visit to Philadelphia to see the show. Will the new Barnes Collection be open by then? Have you been to the Rodin Museum there? I am (happily) jealous and wish I were going to be there with you. ~ David

  261. Susan – congrats on the St. Remy/Van Gogh post – it's the tops – well worth the effort. Having just been to St. Remy for a few hours (and bought those nice shoes) I feel I must go there again, with you as guide. Brian

  262. Very sad, but then very beautiful-thanks Susan

  263. Susan
    A beautiful touching story written in an interesting contemporary style. Your brillant words captured Van Gogh in a way I have never seen him portrayed. I feel that at last we know the real Vincent Van Gogh, not just the crazy artist who cut off his ear.

    With the lovely video with background music and the marvelous array of pictures, in my opinion the Trobadors have reached their highest pinnacle.

  264. Van Gogh produced a huge amount of art AND inspired a huge number of articles and books about him–he really is fascinating to read about. The Naifeh and Smith book looks like it is packed with information!

    I have never been to the Rodin in Philly. But, on your recommendation, we will go there, too! Wish you would join us!

    Thanks for your note, as always,
    Susan

  265. Brian,

    There is a lot to do in and around St. Rémy. Although I much prefer to stay in the Luberon area (in Lourmarin, as you know!), we always find ourselves driving over to St. Remy for one good reason or another! Next time you come to visit, we will go! Bring your new walking shoes!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  266. Paul,
    Thank you for such lovely feedback. I always like reading his correspondence with Theo and with his sister (and others, too)because it shows his benevolence even more than his paintings. I wish I had had more space to write about that, too. Sad but beautiful does sum up his story.
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  267. Thank you for such favorable feedback. I tried to strike a balance with his humanity and his psychiatric issues along side his art during one of the last years of his life. Extraordinary talent and complicated man….like so many people even today, eh?
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  268. Susan,
    Did you bid on Liz Taylor's van Gogh painting at Christie's? His "Vue de l'asile et de la chapell de St. Remy" just sold for 16 million dollars! Wow!
    Here's a link to the story:

    http://www.theglobeandmail.com/arts/116-million-auction-of-liz-taylor-jewels-smashes-records/article4181088/

  269. Another lovely post, Susan! Yes, we very much enjoyed our 2003 Pierrevert that you and Towny gave me for my 51st birthday! I look forward to finding some Pierrevert rosé someday. I get rather tired of the ubiquitous American snob response to rosé… “Sorry, I don’t drink pink wines…” They equate them all with White Zinfandel and, on that we agree. Remember, ‘Friends don’t let friends drink White Zinfandel.” (It does make a lovely rosemary jelly, though, to accompany lamb dishes…) But I digress. The point is that rosé, like any type of wine, runs the gamut of flavors – remember the one with banana overtones form the Chateau outside of Lourmarin? But they are dry, and have exquisite flavors not to be likened to their tacky pink cousins. I highly recommend that everyone try them and, while lovely in the summer, we are having a bottle with our lunch today in the garden… one from the Côtes du Rhone region… with our herbed quinoa, citrus, pomegranate salad.

    • Yes, I do remember that rosé with the banana overtones–one of my favorites! There is such a range of tastes and textures in the rosés in Provence–I would love to take a trip devoted solely to tasting them…and, of course, the foods to match!

  270. Okay , you convinced me.. … I am going out to buy a bottle of rose from Provence tomorrow! It’s 25 degrees in Greenwich, CT– I guess that kind of weather demands a rozay ! Nice blog!

  271. Hello there. We will be staying in the Luberon–not in your apartment because it was occupied–and we would greatly appreciate your recommendations for wineries to taste pink wine. Thank you. Yours, Lawrence and Louise in Atlanta

  272. I’m glad to see that rose’ has made a welcome come back !!
    For sometime that lovely pink wine has endured an undeserved reputation of being tawdry and terribly un-chic.

    And now, due to Modern Trobador’s endorsement, “Drum Roll, please………………………………..She’s back and better than ever !!”

    My personal favorite is Sophia Copopollo’s Sparkling Rose’. It’s easy on the eyes and easy on the stomach.

  273. An interesting interpretation of the Van Gogh exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

    While it would be nice to have the original that Vincent Van Gogh painted for his nephew, "Almond Blossoms", I have a more practicle, for me, substitute. It is a lovely tee shirt in the same lovely design. It is from the Philadelpha Museum of Art.

    As Susie put it, I could start a "Walking gallery of clothes by Van Gogh".

    What do you suppose he would say while rolling over in his grave? I'm sure he would have a few choice words, the least of which would be "Sacre Bleu !!!"

  274. I agree with you about the show title. I wonder if titling shows has become like headlines for newspapers – written by someone who has never read the article but skimmed a paragraph or two… or in this case, looked at a few images.

    But, that aside, the paintings are stunning and, although rain is NOT one of my favorite subjects, his portrayal was so well done that I actually shivered when I saw the image. And the almond blossoms… so captivating in live and on canvas.

    As I won't get to see this exhibition, I am so glad I got to 'see' it through your eyes! Many thanks!

    ~ David

  275. Thanks for sharing this lovely exhibition with your readers. Van Gogh is truly one of the greats and, arguably, captured the glory of Provence like no other artist before or after.

  276. I thoroughly enjoyed your comments on the exhibition and the photos of his work. How I wish we lived close enough to Philadelphia to see it! I think I must get the book. Thank you for sharing.

  277. "….wonderful Susan – I'd love the big exhibition poster on the wall….did you ever go to 'Cathedrale d'Images' just past Les Baux? This was closed last year due to a management dispute, but will open again 30/3/12 under new management and under the name of 'Carrieres de Lumieres' and the theme this year is 'Gaugin, Van Gogh, peintres de la couleur'….we'll miss when we're in Provence next month, but later this year we'll go….and always remember to bring a jumper, it's pretty cool 'in the rocks'…. :)" Lis

  278. Congratulations!!!

  279. How fascinating. My recollection is that the antecedents of today's Slow Food movement began in response to the opening of a McDonald's in Rome at Piazza d'Espagna. We walked past it last September, and noticed that it has now screaming golden arches, just a demure sign (with golden arches) and a window display of lovely Italian pastries, and none of the familiar scent of hamburger grease. I guess they are learning to adapt. Oh, and we didn't eat there either! – Mark

  280. WOW !!! Now THAT is good news !! I'd hurry up and get there before they discontinue this offer.

    Some snooty foodies (faux gourmets) are bound to turn up their noses in public, while running to get a McBaguette in private and in full disguise. They will tell themselves that they were only going to check out the FRENCH fries. Ha!Ha!. The burger crumbs on their face will give them away !!

    Viva Le Mickey D.

  281. While I do NOT frequent McDonalds here in the states, I might consider giving it a try if they featured real cheese, fresh beef and chicken (absent the bad stuff) and served wine. But I know for sure that will never happen in "hand it out the window" America!! I can dream, though.
    VMJ

  282. Susan, you have certainly hit the nail on the head here! I am with you on the eatery choices, but perhaps we can hope that some of the lessons learned in France can be transferred to the American McD's…of course, the market might have to be educated to some degree…
    Lin Amstutz

  283. Susan – You make passing reference to José Bové, and I suppose the "improvements" in McDonalds' hamburgers in France could be traced back to his activities. José Bové, as you know, was the "farmer" who in 1999 wrecked a McDonalds under construction in Millau, Aveyron, by driving a bulldozer into it. I well remember driving north on A75 in 2001 with our friend Eva, before the spectacular new bridge at Millau was completed, and taking an hour or so to get through the town. Every few yards by the roadside on the approaches to the town was a placard proclaiming LIBEREZ JOSE. Millau was an appropriate place for a protest as the U.S. government had slapped a 100 percent tariff on Roquefort cheese in retaliation for the European ban on the import of hormone-fed American beef. Roquefort is the local cheese in the department of Aveyron. Brian

  284. The McDonalds article reminded me of my father, who was truly a coffee aficionado. He was forever searching for the perfect cup of coffee. He was "a man of a thousand coffee pots and all of the necessary accoutrements to go with them.

    He loved McDonalds and always professed that they made the best cup of coffee around. We decided to put him to the test by taking him to a coffee store that sold every coffee bean in the gourmet catagory known at the time. We were sure that he would come away pleased and out of his rut.

    The sales lady approached him and said "Sir, tell me what kind of coffee you like best?" When he replied "I want some coffee just like they make at McDonalds ", her chin dropped a foot, as if he'd said a dirty word. She politely said "no sir we don't make coffee like McDonalds. ours is far superior". He then said "well forget it, thanks anyway".

    After that, I started testing for myself and to this day I say "Daddy was right. They DO make the best coffee. The flavor is consistant and the coffee is always hot. They never disappoint".

    So eat your heart out Starbucks or all you other fancy coffee drinkers. Just remember when it comes to coffee, Father knows best !! At least mine did !!

    Thanks for the memories!!

  285. I have been unable to contact le Castelas

    I have tried email: le_castelas@yahoo.fr

    and phone: 04 70 74 60 89
    and 04 90 74 60 89
    all not working.
    Are they gone or do I have incorrect contact information?

  286. Hi~
    Your second number (+33 (0)4 90 74 60 89) is the correct one. I imagine that they are closed. They told us that they would be open all year, depending on the weather. Perhaps it is just too cold in sunny Provence! Let me know if you cannot reach them in March and I will inquire further.
    Enjoy your visit there!

    Best,
    Susan

  287. Thank you, I will in Provence briefly in May.So I will keep trying.
    Carmen

  288. "Quick" question. Have you tried the McBaguette? Is it as good as ot looks? I admit
    I did not find it one of your most fascinating articles and McD's is not a place I have ever frequented so I did not read it as thoroughly as I could have. Being food I did wonder tho.

  289. Patty Roessler March 5, 2012 at 12:03 pm

    Susan & Towny – LOVED the cat pics. I used to have 2 marmalade cats years ago. These days David is allergic to cats so the days of a kitty curled on my lap are no more, sadly.

  290. These are fantastic but one I will use often is: Je crois que je vais cracher une boule de poils. Merci! ~ David

  291. While eating at a McCafé has a certain perverse appeal, I think I will join you at the local markets, mère et père cafés, and patisseries! I do recall that, when I was 14 on my first European adventure, my friends and I did eat at a McDonalds and it was already better than the U.S. version – and that was in 1974! I can only imagine the improvements the French have made since then! ~ David

  292. well-written and thorough.

  293. 10 MILLION CATS !!!!
    My mother always said "if you can't say something nice ….. No, No, that wasn't MY mother, so I guess I can say it. OMG What a nightmare !!!!! Is it over yet ? Can I open my eyes?

    On second thought, how lucky could 10 million cats get ? They have landed in Provence, where both the country and the people are beautiful !!

    See I CAN say something nice !!

  294. That's a lovely tribute to your grandfather. I'm impressed that you can remember your experiences so vividly.

  295. Lovely story and memories of your earlier life with you grandparents, also the beautiful pictures, I loved it.
    Paul

  296. What a beautiful story and reminder to us all to value our roots and past. Your words really brought back the essence of a time when things were a bit slower, and the photos are exquisite (please thank the photographer for me!) – I could almost taste the Old Fashioned! Finally, the memorabilia you have from your grandfather's books and of that trip – so amazing that you still have it – I haven't seen a hand-written ticket in decades! Thanks so much for sharing… ~ David

  297. I love the story about Uncle C and Auntie B such lovely memories of a very memorable couple. I miss them too. He also loved his Canadian roots he taught us to love Old Fashioned's & all things Canadian. I remember having my very first old fashioned when we (with my parents) visited with them in Fresno. I have not had one in many years will order one next time I am out and toast Uncle C.

  298. What a charming reminiscence. When I glimpse American families abroad and see their sulky teens glued to their electronic gadgets, sighing for the bland suburban high-school romantic interest back home, and rolling their eyes at everything their parents show them, I realize they have zero sense of curiosity, and wonder if — when they reach adulthood — they'll have any such memories to cherish about those travels. Thanks for sharing yours! – Mark

  299. That trip was one of the highlights of my life. We relived it many times in conversations and photos which, I imagine, kept the details so alive. I didn't realize how thick my folder of information was until I opened it, after many years, and found old airline tickets, letters from TWA, hotel receipts, and lots of tourist pamphlets. I always think of my grandparents when I travel to France. Thanks for your note!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  300. Hey Paul,
    Thanks for your compliments from England. I am happy to say that I've got a lot of English and Scottish blood, too.
    Amitiés,
    susan

  301. And, I'm sure it has been decades since you have seen a typed personal letter from an airline company wishing us well! Did you note the price of the flight: NYC-Lisbon-Paris-London-NYC for $356.00!! The tax, incidentally, was a paltry $3.00!!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  302. Hi Jude,
    "O Canada!" my grandfather was known to bellow out and then launch into the chorus of the national anthem of his native Canada! Canada remained in his heart until he died. You probably know that, per his wishes, he returned home to be interred in Burks Falls, a tiny town in northern Ontario (that can't be far from the North Pole).

    So good to hear from you!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  303. So funny you should express these sentiments. Our family trips usually entailed long car drives, seemingly endless ones in my young mind. Time was passed with games like "car bingo" in which you endeavor to be the first in the family to spot something like a silo or a railroad crossing, a sighting that would enable you to slide a little plastic window over a picture of the object. The goal was to be the first to get five "closed windows" in a row. Most of the time there were no silos or train crossings, especially in Mexico, so we were compelled to come up with new objects to look for. It was the never ending game and inevitably devolved into arguments–and outright fisticuffs–between my brother and me that my mother would have to officiate. By the time we reached our destination, we were exhausted but who can rest when there were mariachi bands to hear and Tiachihualtepetl to climb. Our family vacations taught me conflict resolution skills and inspired me to see more of the world. Thankfully, we had no little electronic gadgets or televisions hanging from the roof! i remember all those vacations with great fondness.

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  304. My memories of Grampi are far too long to fit on this site. I'll simply say that March 10th is a busy time in our family. It's when , from coast to coast, we race to the phone to remind each other that it's Grampi's Birthday and nt to forget to fix an old fashioned and raise a toast to him. He perfected the Brandy Old Fashioned with help from the bartenders at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco sometime in the 1940s. Through the years it has become our Signature Drink.
    Grampi was handsome and full of charm. He was fond of show tunes. He would shuffle around the house, sometimes in his bathrobe, singing 'Rosalie" and "Oh,What a Beautiful Morning'. This year on his 106th Birthday, as is my custom, I made myself a "Grampi" Old Fashioned and turned on his favorite show Lawrence Welk. It was, as if they knew that this was a special day, they wer playing songs from the twenties,thirties and forties.
    As I raised my Old Fashioned in a toast,I shed a few tears and said "Happy Birthday Grampi!! We love you and we'll never forget you, and Oh,how we wish you were here".

  305. This was too cute…why does it seem so much more sophistiCATed when said in French?

  306. We are probably about the same age as I, too, spent many hours in the back seat of our station wagon with my siblings while Dad drove and Mom directed him. My parents loved National Parks. I think I have seen them all. My husband and I, in turn, chauffeured our children around the country every summer without any of the modern day devices that distract from one another and the world. I attribute our close familial relationships and my children's ability to carry on interesting conversations directly to these experiences. Thanks for a moving and provocative piece.

    Mary B.

  307. what a wonderful story.makes me want to go and make an old fashioned right now!!!!!! Be right back.

  308. Enjoyed the story. We will be in Provence in November,2012, and would like to go on a truffle hunt. Can you give us the name and how to contact your t. hunter?
    Merci,
    Geraldine Ventura

  309. lovely piece — one of my favorites thus far. makes me want to get on a plane. the photos are wonderful — all that food and the beautiful flowers. i felt as if i were there doing the tour. plus my favorite photo is the boutique window display. clever!! global grammy

  310. Ahhh… great memories of our day in Aix at the market followed by lunch at Les Deux Garçons! (Not to mention the stop to find a battery charger for my camera – proof that Aix has it all!) You know, I had forgotten about calissons… so good! I want one now… Lovely post – thanks! ~ David

  311. David,
    I've never thought to look for a recipe for calissons…hmmm. I do have a Patricia Wells' recipe for croquettes that's very good.

    That was a great day! Can I have a do-over?

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  312. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  313. I seem to recall a couple of similar window displays from other parts of the world in your portfolio of photographs! Thanks for such nice feedback!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  314. I'm sure that Grampi has befriended Lawrence Welk up in Heaven and that they were together directing the show. Maybe Bob Hope, too!

    He's never far from us, is he?

  315. I wonder if OF orders increased over that weekend?!

  316. CHERS,

    AVOIR LA FRANCE DANS LE SANG, ENCORE UNE EXPRESSION BIEN FRANÇAISE !…
    ET JE ME SOUVIENS TRÈS BIEN DE L'INCROYABLE EXPRESSION (SENS DU MOT DIFFÉRENT) SUR LES VISAGES DU VIEUX COUPLE QUI DANSE (L'IMAGE DU BONHEUR) : J'AI DÛ VOIR CETTE PHOTO SUR UN MUR, À PORTSMOUTH, NON ?…

    TENDRESSES VERS VOUS TROIS,
    PIERROT

  317. Hi Geraldine,
    I will check with a couple of friends to see what I can find out. I don't think the friend who took us would be willing to divulge his secret spots! But I will check and post a response.
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  318. Oh, those markets, so beautiful and tempting.
    Vegetarians beware, you may never leave, which reminds me, my Grandmother would be barred for life. Her crime? she was a tomato squeezer. She'd squeeze every tomato looking for just the right one. The store clerks couldn't get her to stop,or shame her with their polite requests of:"Lady, PLEASE don't squeeze the tomatos".

    I'm sure that when she got to the Gates of Heaven with a tomato in her hand and St.Peter looked puzzled and questioned her about why she brought a tomato to Heaven, She'd smile and be pleased as punch to say: I've finally found a ripe one , so I must be in Heaven and I'm not letting loose of it, come Hell or High Water !!

  319. Dear Susie,

    Max and I are reading again your lovely tribute to Daddy (or Grampi as many in the family knew him), and I have to admit that my heart always skips a beat when I am reminded how much we all lost when he drew his final breath. You have certainly shared the spirit of what he was like to travel with. Daddy had a great interest in many things, places and people, and he was always fun and full of intellectual curiosity about anything new. He had an Adele Davis book on nutrician that was as dog eared as the French books he studied in order to communicate with his business peers. He was also a very good correspondant telling us of his experiences every where he went. He was really quite an unusual man. Mom, God love her, gave him all the limelight.

    Well done, Susie. Time for me to wipe my tears.

    Barbara

    P.S. Time for me to make the Old Fashions!

    Max

  320. George McQuilken March 25, 2012 at 1:46 pm

    I'd like to send some of his products as gifts. He lists quite a variety of items online. Are there any particular products that you would suggest as particularly tied to Provence?

  321. Hi George , Any of the lavender and verbena products are like having a little bit of Provence in your home where ever you live. In particular, I like the lavender hand cream and bath salts. Although the Shea butter comes from burkina Faso, that cream is absolutely wonderful… Apparently other people feel the same way because it is their most popular product! Lucky friends and family of George!

  322. Hi George, I have used the men's line from L'Occitane and recommend the shaving balms. There are several fragrances, all suitably masculine but I have a preference for the Verdon. The "A Romantic Escape for Him" set is a nice bundle since it also includes the popular Shea Butter hand cream.

  323. I just received a sample of what I gather is one of their new products: Almond Milk Concentrate for smoother skin. I loved the lotion–it smells good and feels good! So, thought you might want to consider this line for your gifts–the almonds are from Provence and the almond trees are blossoming right now.

    Christine in Moustiers

  324. I had no idea of the company's history. I have to say, when people ask, "With which three famous people would you like to share a meal?" – Olivier might be one of them.

    I feel very fortunate that we have a L'Occitane boutique within a 5-minute walk from the house – and I was just there on Saturday with one of our house guests. I also received the almond milk concentrate sample in the mail and love it.

    ~ David

  325. Susie: I am pleased to have been reminded of your lovely grandparents and to have learned more about your grandfather. For several years I wore a "grampi hat" (as you used to refer to your grandfathers hat) and I smiled every time I put it on. The picture of them both almost seem to come to life. Aw, but would it could. I shall look foreword to a good Old Fashion this weekend and remember them both along with mmemories of you. Much Love Barry

  326. P.S.
    I recall he (or perhaps you) introduced me to Brandy Old Fashion's and there after I always asked him for a Brandy Old Fashion. I think I finally gave him a bottle of Brandy along with .a cool cock screw concealed as part of a leather duck's head! At the time it struck me as elegant and cool. I was young then.
    BDQ

  327. Loved all the beautiful pictures, thanks for sending me your blog. Love, Lillian

  328. Another lovely piece with pictures to match. Such beautiful vivid colors !!
    I checked out their terrific website and found yet another lesson on pronunciation. Now, afterall the emphasis on pronouncing "Loccitane", I was reminded of a Jack-in-the-Box commercial where Jack had difficulty pronouncing "Chipotle" for the main ingredient in his new sandwich. They hammered him until he was exhausted and he never could pronounce it right (Cha-pote-lay".

    Do you suppose they'll let me in to shop, even if I can't pronounce "Lox-ee-tan" ? Maybe they'll give me a special password fo novices.

    All in jest, of course, I would never cheapen such a classy place.

  329. Hello Susan, once again you bring back so many wonderful memories of our time in Provence. We did visit L'Occitane Boutique in Manosque and my wife Anne loved it, my credit card didn't, the photos also enhance your lovely article, thanks again.
    Paul

  330. Hi Christine,
    I received that sample, too, and I look forward to trying it! Thanks for your comment!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  331. Hi David,

    If you have dinner with Olivier, please invite me….and, if it is spring, I think we should serve that wonderful citrus cake filled with almonds! I just made it and Towny reminded me that we brought back the ground almonds from France!

    To my readers, cut and paste this link to find the recipe!

    http://cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com/2012/03/its-about-bloomin-time.html?utm_source=BP_recent

    Amitiés,

    Susan

  332. Hi Lillian,

    I am so glad you enjoyed it! We have to get you to France!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  333. That is SO funny! I can't count the number of times I have heard people struggle with saying "chipotle" peppers! Like L'Occitane, how to pronounce it becomes a long conversation! I think there are a lot of novices out there!

    Thanks for your comment!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  334. Hi Paul,
    Thanks for your kind note! It is so easy to find topics to write about–and photos!–when Provence is the subject! Although your neck of the woods in England looks pretty inviting, too!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  335. You MUST be writing about MY grandmother! She, bless her soul, was the same way! I shudder to think what the French farmers would say if she were to "inspect" the tomatoes in the Market! Fortunately, she wouldn't understand them!

  336. Hi Pierre,
    Yes, you are right–that photograph does grace the wall in our house. And, I agree–the warm expression of sheer contentment is very moving.
    Thanks so much for your thoughts.
    Merci et Amitiés,
    Susan

  337. Hi Barbara and Max,

    Thanks so much for your note. Grampi was, by all accounts, a character and a beloved one. You are so right that my grandmother–your Mom–did always stand in the background. I have a piece planned about MG, as we grand children adoringly called her, to come later.
    Amitiés,
    Susie

  338. Dear Barry,

    Grampi LOVED that cork screw! And, of course, it added to the production of pouring wine! You were like family to him. Thank you for sharing your fond memories of him….we all had a lot of fun together, eh?

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  339. Mary Norcross April 1, 2012 at 1:52 pm

    I did like Aigues-Mortes–we were there on a rainy day in 2003 and it must have been in the middle of the week because I don't remember many tourists.
    We ate at a marvelous restaurant, La Salicorne stayed too long and were driving home in dark among the trucks hell bent for Lyon! We had to go all of the way to Orange for the crossover to "our" side of the river.

  340. Salut, my friend! Thanks for the 'shout out' with the link to the citrus almond cake. Yummy, isn't it?

    I had to laugh about the pronunciation of chipotle – a word once so foreign to us has become <> in our Southwest lives…

    Bisous, David

  341. The courses camarguaises reminds me a lot of the Tucson Rodeo in February! While rodeo isn't all that popular in some circles, it is a tradition and a way of life. Vive la différence! While I have said I would never attend a bull fight, I might just head over to the Camargue sometime for Easter week!

  342. An interesting andwell written story about bull fighting. Each story seems to bring back memories that were long forgotten.
    The bull fights in LaFeria are pretty tame compared to the ones that we went to in Mexico. We used to load up the family(yes, children were allowed)and on the way to the bull ring, my brother-in-law, who was an expert on Mexican culture, would prep us with a lesson on the history of bull fighting. "These bulls were raised to be used in the ring, he used to say,Their sole purpose in life was to fight and die in the ring. After the Matador kills the bull, the carcass is immediately taken to a charitable organization that feeds the poor. That was their noble reward".
    Upon our arrival at the arena. we would purchase our seat cushions. They were hand made of scraps of colored leather, a real work of art. Compared to cushions these days, our cushions were small. The size seemed more proportioned to the slim hips and posteriors of the toreadors. Todays fans would need at least two!!
    We tried to sit up high and above the fray because if the fans didn't like the toreador or the end results of the match, they would throw their cushions toward the ring,not caring who they hit. We always left feeling lucky to have survived.
    It made me think of those anciant Biblical perple who were entertained by the matches that were held in the Roman Coliseum, and were we to compare them,some might say "Cruel and uncivilized". Who's to say ? That decision is still, ultimately, in the eye of the beholder.

  343. Hi Mary,
    Thanks for defending Aigues-Mortes. I would enjoy revisiting Aigues-Mortes in the off-season as those fabulous ramparts must be fun to explore. I suppose that one could describe Carcassone similarly–that magnificent 13th century walled city (with origins predate the Romans by several thousand years!) is often filled to the brim with tourists (like ourselves), too, but it wasn't when we were there and I would jump at the chance to return.

    Thanks for the restaurant recommendation, too!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  344. It would be a fun road trip. Mary, who lives in New England but whom I met in Lourmarin, has provided a restaurant recommendation! We could start in Paris and hear the new bells in Notre Dame when they debut on Palm Sunday 2013 and then head south! Let's go!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  345. I agree that we should tread lightly into another culture's traditions. There are certainly some practices that the vast majority of the world–the eyes of most beholders– find so morally repugnant that we are compelled to voice our opposition, but most customs that have withstood the test of time have carved out a place in that culture even if they are controversial. Of course, cultures change over time and what was once largely acceptable may now be abhorrent…but, as you suggest, who are we to judge those of the past?

    I attended quite a few bullfights as a child with the same kind of mindset you are describing. I'm not sure that I saw them much differently than a professional football game (a sentiment the reader can interpret in several ways!).

    Thanks for your candid and very interesting thoughts.

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  346. Susan,

    I don't attend bullfights. Nor do I attend professional hockey games. Is there a difference? No, I think not.

    But…I would relish the opportunity to attend the bull games you are describing!

  347. Hi Patty,
    So good to hear from you! There is nothing like a kitty on one's lap. We are now a house of two dogs, having until recently had three cats! Sadly our last one died in 2009.
    So glad you liked the photos–we had fun assembling them.
    My best to you and David,
    Susan

  348. David,
    Have you had the opportunity to use this expression yet?
    Best,
    Susan

  349. As I typed the large number of cats in such a small country, I wondered if it might not be good for tourism!!….If you keep your windows closed, you are safe! Thanks for the big smile you put on my face!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  350. Your story brought back memories of when we were a little younger and went to the bull fights in Mexico City.I think I still have one of leather pillows we would thro to the Matador if he gave a good performance.I still have it so I guess it was a poor showing!I,d better go check-be right back!
    P.S. I'msure Mr. Manfull has the bulls!
    Brother John

  351. There is a bill before the assembly in Mexico City that would ban the very bullfights we used to see in Mexico City. Apparently, it is likely that they will approve it, making bullfights illegal. The main reason there is such debate, I gather, is not because it is considered a cultural tradition but because it would negatively impact employment of so many people. In the country, there are around 225 bullrings and around 22 bullfighting schools. All that said and at the risk of appearing to be like the Adams Family, we certainly had fun.

    S

  352. Easter weekend in the Camargue, Nîmes, and Arles!

  353. Hi,
    I enjoy reading a lot and your stories are worth reading, nice blog, keep it up.

  354. Great list! Merci Beaucoup! I'm recommending this list to my students!

  355. I have never spent Easter in Europe – but with all the best chocolate in the world there, I wonder, "Why not?" Thanks for a fun review of Le Pâques! ~ David

  356. I am glad you enjoy The Modern Trobadors! Please send it on to others, too! Thanks very much for writing!

  357. As you say, "Why not?" So many places to go! Thanks for the nice note!

  358. As always, so fun to read the Trobadors and renew my longing for Provence…happy Spring and all it's many new recipes. Jan

  359. I hope you get back soon! Thanks for the nice feedback!

  360. Hi Susan
    If you are ever in this part of the UK, please give us a call.
    Best wishes
    Paul

  361. Thanks for another interesting and informative article! Brightens up a dreary rainy morn. In the S. J. Valley. Could not but think of you. Someday I too will eat a authentic chocolate fish. BDQ

  362. Brandon Sakozy April 18, 2012 at 6:58 am

    I love the range of flowers displayed in the flower market photo. They look lovely. The local produce market also seems like one stop shop where you can get everything you need which would be very convenient. It is a shame though that the markets close so early at 12:30 pm because this means that one cannot enjoy going shopping to the market on a lovely afternoon or in the evenings when most people are free.

  363. Lingerie is definitely what comes to MY mind!

  364. This was a really fun co-post! Thanks for the inspiration to make Remy's Ratatouille! You should try it – it is really good and fun to make! On this end, we will do our laundry, which may NOT be so much fun! ~ David

  365. Only in France could laundry be synonymous with food!

  366. Trés amusant, merci! ~ Betsy

  367. ELECTION UPDATE: WITH 33% OF VOTE COUNTED, HOLLANDE AND SARKOZY WILL ADVANCE TO MAY 6 ELECTION. EXTREME RIGHT WING CANDIDATE LE PEN GARNERS SURPRISINGLY HIGH 19.9 % THUS FAR.

  368. Susan,

    French Laundry: fun reading! And yes, I have made use of French washing machines many times, both in the public sector (not always
    fun!) and in the private sphere: my apts. in France. The latter (2 years now in same apt.) has proved to be a challenge but the landlady is très gentille and helped me to figure it out. So it is now more or less 'user friendly'.

    And (also) Yes: Presidential Election en France today. I will be glued to my radio at 17h to hear the results, as well as tomorrow morning at 6h. Will be bien intéressant, no doubt!

    Merci bien!

    Amitiés,
    Henry

  369. Susan,

    The French even hang their laundry in colorful tones, great pictures and story. Sad that in US hanging laundry has almost vanished.

    Enjoyed the story. Lillian

  370. I really miss hanging my clothes outside. They always smelled so good, better than in a dryer. Janine K.

  371. I just had a conversation with Win Rhoades who, with Claire Flemming, owns our favorite wine and cheese store, South Street and Vine. We interviewed him for a July 14th piece we did about choosing wines and cheeses for a Bastille Day dinner (see July 14, 2011 post or go to http://bit.ly/I6naPf ). He told me that Thomas Keller was not responsible for the name, French Laundry, of his famous restaurant. As I mentioned in the article, the restaurant is located in the building that once housed a French laundry, but another restaurant occupied that space before him that was also called the French Laundry. I had not realized that that first restaurant, famous in its own right, was the first incarnation of the French Laundry.

    Win also told me that he has been to the French Laundry–Keller's that is–and that it is EVERYTHING and more than its reputation suggests!

    And, Win and Claire ALWAYS hang their laundry to dry!

  372. These lovely pictures of laundry blowing in the breeze with color coordinated clothes pins may look quaint and nostalgic, but for those that were actually there at the time, the memories were not always pleasant. I remember my mother lugging heavy,as she used to say "back breaking" laundry baskets out to the line to be hung up. She was always scanning the sky for signs of rain(no weather reports then) to see if it was safe to hang things. Sometimes the plan had to be scrapped, which meant there were clothes all over the house hang on wooden racks or anything they could find. Our clothes had been washed in a machine that was always a terror to any small child. The machine was said to be "modern", but it had a huge roller on the top. My mother continuously reminded me not to get too close or you could get your arm caught in the wringer and you'd be mangled for life !!
    My mother, who was an authority, or so she thought, on all things proper.When the weather was beautiful and the sky as blue as a robins egg and no rain in sight, she'd hang out our clothes, but as she looked around, she couldn't keep herself from saying,in disgust,"Look at Mrs. Whatshernsme, She ALWAYS hangs everything up side down". Who knrw there was a right way and a wrong way to hang clothes? MY Mother did !!

  373. nice piece — liked the info on the lily of the valley — miss that lovely flower and is fragrance but alas they don't grow in FL!! GG

  374. Wow – this is all news to me! I had no idea that either were the causes of celebration/demonstration in France. I only knew of may poles and dancing and carousing… Good for France! It would be interesting to learn what other social causes are being touted this year. Aside from lilacs, lily-of-the-valley is the other flower we miss a lot from Maine. ~David

  375. PS – I loved seeing Alex's drawings of the muguet de bois!

  376. This is an excellent article, diligently researched and very thought provoking. My immediate reaction as an American, who deeply values freedom, living amidst American citizens who have become increasingly lethargic and recklessly give up individual freedoms seemingly without thought, was shock. Of course, the personal freedom of expression should be respected. Then, I read on. There is no simple answer and perhaps no absolutely correct answer. When in a country, not my own, I am respectful of the culture and in fact, willing to observe and participate as fully as allowed with the dress, customs, foods, music, home stays because it is then that I learn the most about the people. It is in this type of interaction that I am familiarized with the similarities of humankind, which I believe builds bridges. It is my theory that if one is not actively engaging with the people of a locality, there is a tendency to observe all the ways in which we are different from one another, which is constructive only in building walls. Having visited France on a number of occasions has enhanced my desire to strive to live the "French way of life", or my perception of it, wherever I am. But does the "French way of live" mean working less, playing more, lingering over delicious meals with friends and family, wine with more than just dinner, coffee served with a small square of decadent dark chocolate enjoyed indulgently in an out door cafe while enjoying the colorful, fashionable, creative, playful yet impossibly thin French people moving through the course of their day? Isn't it most probable the "French way of life" is interpreted differently person to person.? As most know who have had the opportunity to live in another country, the living is far different from the visiting. Especially if the visiting is limited to role of the tourist. Take another look, perspective, if you will. You are a stranger is a strange land. Your customs, your religion, your culture, your traditions, are all you have known. Now, in addition to learning a new language because, not only, are you not understood, you don't understand. You must learn to curtail your customs, your dress, your habits to within the confines of your home or your place of worship. You have been a woman hidden from public view always. Now, in this strange land, you are not allowed to be covered, to be shielded from view, to be anonymous. And it is meant to be "less revealing" of your "identity" in this strange new land. Unnerving, unsettling, this "understanding".
    the thoughts of a poor, wayfarin' stranger travelin' through this world of

  377. Boy, does this post take me back… and make me want to go back again soon! While we have only dined in two of the above-mentioned places, I can easily see how your list of 20 might be just the tip of an iceberg! Alors, there is only one thing to do! Plan another trip! ~David

    PS – this post should have started with a warning: do not read if hungry…

  378. after reading the first four, i had to stop. so much good food — so many charming places. just made me want to find a place like that here for lunch!! i shall return to this post often and savor each description as if it were a course in one of the fine meals described (and pictured). nicely done. global grammy

  379. Since our first trip to Provence is this summer, this post was most welcome. Your descriptions, Susan, are superb. Although I'd like to go to all 20, I know we'll want some "at home" dinners on the patio with a roast chicken. I always enjoy the kid anecdotes and references to your own daughter, as we will be traveling with 2 enfants. It's nice to know children are welcome, but I can't imagine our Henry ordering rack of lamb! So, cute!
    Merci, Sharon

  380. GG,
    This post prompted more conversation than comments online and, clearly, one theme was how much people love lily-of-the-valley. I received several lovely photos of this pretty lily as it is currently growing in the gardens of TMT readers!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  381. David,

    I will pass on your compliments to Alex! Alex was commisioned to produce the bouquet image by someone who missed the deadline for Christmas cards and wanted to send out May Day cards to her friends and family!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  382. So funny…but so true!

  383. And my feedback would suggest that you are not alone!

  384. I will try it! It's ALWAYS fun and inspirational to work with you!

  385. Maybe I should do a post on French lingerie! That could be fun!

  386. Merci Henry! Those French washing machines do require a lesson! But, they are better–easier to figure out–now!

  387. Lillian,
    I received so many emails from people lamenting the rarity of laundry blowing in the breeze! Maybe Kate is hanging laundry in Colombia!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  388. Janine,
    So many people told me that they miss that fresh smell!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  389. Ah, the OTHER side of hanging laundry. I knew it couldn't be as pristine as the lovely color coordinated clothes swaying in the breeze suggests! I LOVE the description of your mother's critique of her neighbor's clothes-hanging techniques!

    Thanks so much for your comments!

  390. Nearly four years have rolled by since our joint adventure in and around Lourmarin. Another trip is in order, if not over due! Is there a bumper sticker, "So many meals, so little time" ?

    We went to two of our VERY favorite restaurants!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  391. Hi Global Grammy,

    It was a fun post to write! Finally, I just had to narrow down the list to a smaller radius around Lourmarin as there really are so many good places. I know you are a lover of salads, perhaps a post on where to find the best salads is a good idea!

    Amitiés
    Susan

  392. Sharon,
    I will look forward to hearing where you and your family end up going. You are right about the "at home" dinners–they are some of our most memorable! The roast chicken from the Lourmarin market and the salmon from the Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market are two of our favorite center pieces for our dinners or lunches! Oh yes, and take-out pizza from Le Pan Garni with a big salad from produce from the local market!

    When our daughter was Henry's age, we gave her a sketch pad to take to the restaurant as the courses do require some patience on the part of little ones. Alex has always loved La Louche au Beurre, what is now called Pizzeria Nonni, Le Castelas, and the restaurants in Buoux. They are casual and offer a little more freedom to get up from the table if necessary. Le Chateau, in the Calanques near Marseille, is also a great choice with children in mind–because it overlooks the beautiful blue water of the calanques and there is the promise of a pretty walk after lunch!

    Have fun and keep me posted! Henry may be ordering rack of lamb by the end of the trip!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  393. Susan – This couldn't be more timely! We are in Mallorca and head to Lourmarin on Friday. We will study your list closely and plan our attack. We "only" have 9 days in Lourmarin and are looking forward to having many memorable meals! Bisous – Kirsten

  394. Hi Troubadors,
    I would like to add that lovely tea shop just a few doors down from La Bonbonniere. My journal notes tell me that it is called The dans l'Encrier ("The" is missing the accent to make it "tea" in French). Your friends Pierre and Muriel owned it when we were visiting a few years ago. The lunches were light, flavorful, and very attractive.
    Fondly,
    Jenny B. in Portland, OR.

  395. Bonjour Susan!

    I thought you would be interested in this feedback from a new friend of ours that has been living in Lourmarin for about 15 years. I sent her the link to your blog and this is what she wrote back…..The reference to Grain de Sel is a bistro here in Marseille that has been voted the Best Bistro in all of France! We have been several times and still plan on going back….

    **I think the link that you sent me had every restaurant in Lourmarin and some surrounding villages! La Fennière has been one of the star attractions for many years. I believe that Reine Sammut was one of the first women chefs to get a Michelin star. One of my favorites is the Closerie in Ansouis. Their food is very good in a simple kind of way, kind of like at the Grain de Sel although perhaps not as inventive. La Petite Maison is a bit overrated I think. The food is much too oily and salty for me. La Louche au Beurre is also good, but very simple and a bit expensive, although that could be said for pretty much all the restaurants in the area. Pizzaria Nonni is also good and on the more reasonable side. A restaurant that is not mentioned is La pebre d'ail in Lauris. You have to book in advance for lunch. They serve incredible amounts of food in a prix fixe menu for under 20 euros with wine! You have to be really hungry to get through everything that they serve.**

    Take good care—-Kristina.


    K R I S T I N A L O G A N
    http://www.kristinalogan.com

  396. Kirsten ~ Do let us know where you go! As I wrote in my email to you, I encourage you to investigate those restaurants I mentioned at the beginning of the post but left off the list (in an effort to keep it shorter!). Happy traveling…happy eating!
    Susan

  397. Jenny~ Good notes! Yes, that is a sweet place with a very good lunch and terrific desserts! We always stop by and have a tomato tart and salad, along with some chilled rose wine, followed by one of their luscious fruit tarts, and a cup of tea! You will find new owners who will greet you warmly: Muriel and Pierre sold the tea salon to Christophe and Mapi a few years ago. Also, it may be good to know that Mapi speaks fluent English. Thanks for the addition!

    Susan

  398. …wonderful Susan, I know we can count on you letting us know what good eateries happens to be in 'our' area of la belle Provence….however, you need to add the little very wonderful restraurant to your list….'Lou Pebre d'Ail' in Lauris….wonderful lunches and dinners at very resonable prices….and also another wonderful resuratant in Merindol 'La Bastide du Grand Tilleul', wonderful ambience – sitting outside in the summer….and the food is wonderful…. 🙂 PS! When are you over next?"
    Lis Steeden

  399. You know, it never occurred to me that we never went into Gordes! We had so much fun (as your children!) at the Abbaye de Sénanque and the Vilage des Bories that we never missed the "downtown" portion of the trip. You are right, though – the shot form the D15 was amazing especially at the end of the day. Now I guess we must go back for the market! ~ David

  400. Quite agree that Gordes is not the most atmospherically appealing, despite its obvious dramatic 'wow' factor. Its probably best visited at night when the trippers have departed and the lighting over the gorge evokes the Cathar castles of the Aude. 'The Good Year offers snippets of each place, the pool and the pollarded trees of Cucuron, the bus shelter in Menerbes? and of course the poor benighted inhabitants of the Chateau ( whose full name will not be mentioned) since it seems they now have to barricade themselves in!
    Phillippa Rees

  401. SUSAN,
    What an interesting market!! Sometimes a second look at a place provides a treasure of things previously overlooked.
    I especially liked the picture of you and Towny on a stroll. That was a rare treat!!
    Was that Rob in the blue shirt shopping in the produce ? If it was, then that must have been a Heavenly Market !!

  402. Reading The Modern Trobadors is a wonderful way to spend a quiet Sunday morning! Chet and I returned to Lou Pebre d'ai, Ave Joseph Garnier, Lauris, three times during our visit to Lourmarin. I took photos of the quaint interior of the restaruant and was inspired to do a painting upon our return to Cape Cod. We look forward to a return visit to the area in 2013 – meanwhile, we will be faithful followers of your blog.
    Mary Jane Conary
    http://www.maryjaneconaryartist.com

  403. I think this will be a great addition to the Lourmarin week! I have often thought that a twice-a-week market would be a good thing, especially when I forget something at the weekend market! I also like that this new market features local celebrity chefs! Now I have yet another reason to return to beautiful Lourmarin! ~David

  404. I think it sounds like so much fun! As you know, I had intended to write about The Stein Collection at the Met in NYC (a fabulous show, dominated by artists who loved the South of France), but this Tuesday evening market grabbed my attention so thoroughly that I had to feature it!

    So, readers, stay tuned for next week–here and with Cocoa and Lavender–for thoughts about the Stein collection,the family and friends who collected all those wonderful paintings, and their favorite desserts!

    Best,
    Susan

  405. Ah, there's always a reason to return! That was such a relaxing evening wasn't it? Well, okay…after so much time relaxing and relishing the beauty of the Abbaye, we did cut it close making it to the bories before sundown!

    Best,
    Susan

  406. We are in Bonnieux now! Will let you know how it is!
    Ciao! Tommy and Anne

  407. Hi Mary Jane,
    It seems that EVERYONE loves Lou Pebre! I can't wait to go! I just took a look at your paintings which are beautiful–I would love to see the Lou Pebre one–could I have a peek?
    So glad you like the blog!
    Best regards,
    Susan

  408. Hi Lis,
    We have to have a rendezvous at one of these wonderful restaurants…perhaps Lou Pebre!
    Good to hear from you.
    All the best,
    Susan

  409. Kristina,
    Thanks so much for your note. Good to hear that there is some agreement with a local foodie. Lou Pebre, a restaurant I did mention but apparently not prominently enough, is a real favorite! I must go! It sounds like the Grain de Sel should be on my list, too!

    Enjoy the rest of your stay!

    My Best to you and your family,
    Susan

  410. Susan,
    All of your Farmers market articals have been interesting and entertaining, but who knew that Farmers Markets have become one of the hottest trends this year !!
    I just read where so many people are talking about eating food grown locally that they've inspired a growing movement and have created a new word:"LOCAVORE",which means someone who prefers food that hasn't moved a long distance to market.
    So tell all those nice people in Lourmarin that they were ahead of their times and were the first to start a new trend in the U.S.A. !!

  411. Truly, I didn't need another reason to hope to return to Lourmarin. Especially having been able to spend time there during my three favorite seasons – fall, winter and spring. Summer has always appealed to me with the lavender blooming profusely in the fields of Provence. And now a Tuesday night market! What is better than shopping outdoors in a beautiful village with wine in hand and divinely prepared victuals to sample while meandering the tables of locally grown sun ripened fruits, vegetables beyond compare,fresh meats, and all the tasty olives, oils, vinegars? – mmmmmm
    It's time again to explore the Luberon.

  412. I am so glad that I can experience this exhibit through your eyes and words. I wonder if there are families these days who collect as such… Who will emerge as the Steins in 2112? I think I will go eat a spoonful of Alice B. Toklas' chocolate mousse and ponder that…

  413. The Steins Collection, as you write, is a stellar exhibition. But, if one misses it, consider going to Philadelphia for a special show to feature Gaugin, cezanne and Matisse at the Museum of Art. Looks to be very interesting.

  414. SUSAN,
    Interesting as usual. I wish I could see it.
    When I took art classes in college, the abstract form was just taking place. It was new and exciting and liberating. By liberating I mean, for artists, never having to paint realistic looking hands again!!
    I have been to museums in Paris, Madrid, and New York. One thing I have always noticed is that artists have difficulty with painting hands that look realistic. Picassos version of fingers is like our comic strips, very primitive and simple.
    I love Matisse's "Blue Nude". She would be in style today and labeled "obese", unless Michelle Obama put her on the carrot stick diet. Then she would be in fashion and labeled
    "annorexic".
    I like her the way she looks in the painting and I would label her"Happy and comfortable in her own Skin!!"

  415. You have made me want to know more about Gertrude Stein, someone who has never been appealing to me! Very interesting post. I won't be anywhere near New York, but am inspired to see other similar exhibits and maybe even read more about Ms. Stein.

  416. Dear  ,
    they are right looking for the historic truth about Gertrude Stein in this however wonderfull exhibition,"The Steins Collect;Matisse,Picasso,Cezanne and the Parisian Avant Garde" in NewYork at the Metropolitan Museum of Art .

    Because what a pleasure to see the portrait of Gertrude Stein by Riba-Rovira .Who was as Picasso an antifascist and antinazi artist .Persecuted by Franco and the Nazis .
    But who is in this exhibition ,thanks to Rebecca Rabinow and Edward Burns, perhaps
    the only one artist would fought them weapons in his hands .
    Whose father was in jail after the spanish civil war .So Riba-Rovira is beside Tchelitchew and Balthus and Francis Rose near Picabia and Picasso in the last room of this exhibition with Cézanne, Matisse .

    And you have an interesting article in Appollo London Revew about him .And also in Artes Magazine from San Francisco where the exhibition was before .

    But the main document as a revelation is with the mention beside the picture with the Preface Gertrude Stein wrote for first Riba-Rovira's exhibition in the Galerie Roquepine in Paris on 1945 .
    Where we can read Gertrude Stein writing Riba-Rovira "will go farther than Cezanne…will succeed in where Picasso failed…I am fascinated " by Riba-Rovira Gertrude Stein tells us .

    And you are you also fascinated indeed as Gertrude Stein by Riba-Rovira ?

    Me I am when I see « L’Arlequin » on the free access website of « Galeria Muro ».

    But Gertrude Stein spoke also in this same document about Matisse and  Juan Gris .
    Riba-Rovira went each week in Gertrude Stein's saloon rue Christine with Masson ,Hemingway and others. By Edward Burns and Carl Van Vechten we can know Riba-Rovira did others portraits of Gertrude Stein .

    But we do not know where they are ;and you do you know perhaps ?

    With this wonderful portrait we do not forget it is the last time Gertrude Stein sat for an artist who is Riba-Rovira .
    This exhibition presents us a world success with this last painting portrait before she died .And her last Gertrude Stein's Art Retrospective before dead .

    It illuminates the tone as an esthetic light over that exhibition now at the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York thanks to Curator Rebecca Rabinow .

    Coming from San Francisco "Seeing five stories" in the Jewish museum to Washington in National Portrait Gallery .And now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York for our pleasure .

    And the must is to see for the first time in the same place portraits by Picasso, Picabia, Riba-Rovira, Rose ,Tall-Coat, Valloton .Never before it was .

    You have the translate of Gertrude Stein's Riba-Rovira Preface on english Gertrude Stein's page on Wikipedia and in the catalog of this Roquepine exhibition you can see in first place the mention of this portrait .And also other pictures Gertrude Stein bought to Riba-Rovira .
    There is another place where you can see now Riba-Rovira's works in an exhibition in Valencia in Spain "Homenage a Gertrude Stein" by Riba-Rovira in Galleria Muro ,if you like art …

    But we do not missed today that all over Europe a very bad wind is blowing again bringing the worth in front of us .And we must know that at least were two antinazis and antifascists in this exhibition but the only one fighting weapons in hands would be Riba-Rovira who did one of the first three « affiches » supporting Republicans in the beguining Spanish civil war .

    Seeing Potrait of Gertrude Stein by Riba-Rovira in the Metropolitain Museum of New York with Picasso ,Cézanne ,Matisse we feel a recreation of spirit .

  417. Hi David,
    I wish I could join you and your mousse….but I know where to find the recipe!

  418. One of my readers, a professor at Johns Hopkins, wrote to tell me that the Baltimore Museum of Art has a very nice collection of Matisse which, he said, is part of the larger collection of the Cone sisters (who were from Baltimore and were also collectors of art in Paris and friends of the Steins).

    Sounds like a good tip!

  419. Paintings do tell us so much about the period in which they were painted, don't they? So much history embedded in the work.

    Not being an artist, I have to confess that I don't think I have ever tried to draw a hand, but I suspect I would not be successful. I will now take note of how others do it!

    Thanks for your interesting and provocative observations!

  420. Ah, great! You have a worthy and interesting goal! Keep us posted!

  421. I am glad that you were so moved by the post. Thank you for your spirited note!

  422. i am going to get some today at my local farm which is still growing their own. great to know that just heavy foil and roasted for an hour. am going to do that. plus i always serve with chevre — it so works! may have to make this for lunch on a bed of fresh arugula ! thanks for the beet info. super blog! GG

  423. I am about to hit the farmers market so beets might just jump into my basket! What a great post – I had no idea beats were so popular in France! Another tip for the greens – sauté them with some shallots and golden raisins, a recipe I use for chard. Quite a wonderful combination! ~ David

  424. As a beet lover married to a beet hater was delighted to get your info on cooked beets. The salad sounds divine! We have noticed that when travelling in France it seems that the Amuse Bouche served in restaurants seems to follow a formula for that year and one year it was beets in many different disguises. Have you ever had a beet mousse? Beet hating husband lived through it but it didn't quite change his mind.
    Ginny

  425. That was a GREAT story and pictures to pay tribute to the "Ugly gnarled" beets lying in the produce bin anxiously awaiting for the Princess to choose them for her Royale Party. Alas and alack, it is now broccoli that is the chosen one and is the king of vegetables.

    Beets were a staple in our family. We had them hot and buttered the first night and sliced and cold with sliced red onions dressed oil vinegar the second night.

    Your story reminded me of how beets were once the end me. It was close to my wedding day when I discovered that, sadly, like so many heroines in those days (Cathy of Wuthering Heights) and I were doomed to die young. I knew that because I had noticed the tell tale "blood" and knew that, like Cathy and Heathcliff, I would die before my wedding. As I prepared my mother for my departure, she laughed and reminded me of what we had eaten for dinner the night before. It might have been funny if I hadn't spent so much time writing my Obit !!

  426. Life-long beet-hater here. BUT your pictures and narrative are mouth-watering. Served with chevres, walnuts and vinegrette has even my mouth watering. I still have trouble shaking the taste of dirt and metal of canned beets, but I'm getting over it. Love them in winter roasted in the bottom of the turkey roasting pan, with chunks of carrot, potato, Brussels sprouts, favoring gold beets, with only one red one thrown in. Luscious with fat and the ruby stains on the other vegetables are gorgeous as stained glass. But June is no time to think of that… except among our friends south of the equator.

  427. Tastes "earthy"? Did you mean like "dirt"? Another life-long beet-hater here. I know I should work them in to my diet, but, THAT would be work! I welcome any advice! Still, a nice post.

  428. Susan: Your "beet" posting strikes a chord. Whenever I've had a vegetable garden here on Long Island I've grown beets and appreciate how good they are freshly dug. I come from a country that has traditionally appreciated the beet (actually "beetroot" in the English-speaking world outside North America). My 88-year old brother in England is still growing beets and cooking them in the way we did when we were growing up – one of the few treats he can still offer me when I visit. I confess I've never in my life roasted a beet – our preferred method of preparatiom is boiling. Boil without removing the thin root portion, and leave about 3 or 4 inches of stalk attached, otherwise color intensity will be lost. When you can rub off the skin with your thumb they're done – about 30 to 45 minutes according to size. Cool, cut of the thin root end and the stalks, rub off the skin, slice and add salt, pepper, a little sugar, and malt or balsamic vinegar.
    Australia is the ultimate heaven for beet eaters. Sliced beets come with everything. You want a corned beef sandwich – it comes with beets. You want a turkey sandwich – it comes with beets. You want a cheese sandwich – it comes with beets. You don't ask – it just comes that way, rather as in this country pickles will come with a pastrami sandwich.
    And Susan, I can from experience endorse your warning – don't have beets for a couple days before any sort of medical examination.
    One final tip – add a beet if you want pink mashed potatoes.
    Brian.

  429. When we were in Lourmarin recently, we ate lunch at the Auberge des Sequins. They presented, on a white square plate, about 8 perfect little servings of various yummies. My favorite was a mousse of roasted betteraves. If you can ever coax the recipe out of them, please let me know! All I know is it involved pureed beets and creme fraiche. Merveilleuse!!!

  430. Hi Susan,

    Have to admit have only had beets from a can. Never knew all the health benefits. Am going to try roasted beets, that is something I can do, thanks for the fun lesson and info.
    Lillian

  431. Dear Susan,
    You have really hit the jackpot here! This is, second only to the crusty ficelle, the reason I fly each year to France…and I will tell you that as a first course, either hot or cold ( I prefer hot) I barely steam the greens in butter and plop the sliced roasted beets with a soupçon of vinegar and tiny sprinkling of raw sugar and some butter on the top of the mound of wilted greens…life does not get better!
    Fondly,
    Lin
    Sent from my iPad

  432. Hi GG,
    It's as if those three ingredients were made for one another! I hope your salad was terrific! Thanks for your kind words, too!
    Cheers!
    Susan

  433. Ah, the greens–they really don't get enough attention, do they? With shallots and golden raisins, they sound wonderful–and pretty!

    Your recipe for Seared Tilapia with Beet Risotto and Citrus Beurre Blanc is mouthwatering!

    Best,
    Susan

  434. Hi Ginny,
    So funny to read about couples of beet lovers and beet haters! Make sure to read Cocoa and Lavender this week for another funny story of a beet hater and a beet lover who live together! And, David features a wonderful recipe that convinced his partner to eat beets!

    I have not had a beet mousse. Another reader (see below) wrote about beet mousse. I will have to make some!

    Good to hear from you and thanks for writing!

    Cheers!
    Susan

  435. Hot buttered beets! Sounds delicious! About ugly gnarled beets, at the Farmer's Market in Carlsbad, California yesterday, I saw the biggest and gnarliest beets I've ever laid eyes on. They would take a mighty long time to roast!

    Regarding the red colored "waste products," that can be frightening. To discover this before your wedding date must have been particularly unnerving. It's a funny story now though! Thanks for sharing it!

    Best regards,
    Susan

  436. Wow – I have never heard of this, Susan! Thanks for the eye-opener. What a treat it would be to go there in a hot summer day. I love all the things I learn from reading TNT! Thanks as ever! ~ David

  437. Sounds like you will not be able to call yourself a life-long beet-hater for long! I agree that the gold beets are particularly appealing — I know they should taste the same, but they seem a little milder to me, which is sometimes nice! They do marry very nicely with turkey–your description makes me yearn for my favorite holiday.

    Thanks so much for your comment!

  438. I received many emails, some directly and some posted here, from people who used the word "dirt" to describe beets. You are not alone! Maybe in juice form? Read below!

    Thanks and good luck!

  439. Hi Lillian,
    Do try roasting them! After you scrub them and dress them the way you like to, just wrap them up in foil, throw them in the oven, and forget about them….until their sweet fragrance reminds you that a wonderful meal is coming soon!

    Thanks so much for your comment!

    Cheers!
    Susan

  440. Hi Brian,
    You have convinced me that I should try boiling them! Maybe when you come to visit, you will cook them as you andyour brother do!

    We have a lot of readers from Austrailia…maybe they will chime in on their country's love of beets. I think a slice of beet on a turkey burger sounds particularly good!

    And pink mashed potatoes! I've got to try that for valentine's Day!

    Cheers!

  441. Hi Kirsten,
    Auberge des Seguins–one of our favorite restaurants! I have not had their roasted beet mousse. I am wondering if Ginny who posted a comment above, went to the same restaurant. I must go there!

    I also want to tell you again about how much I loved your photos of the roses in Lourmarin! TMT readers who want to see them can go to Kirsten's blog, La Dolce Vita: Living the Good Life in California's Mediterranean Climate.

    Thanks for your comment!

    Cheers!

    Susan

  442. Hi David,
    We have to take you to Les Baux and to see the new show, which we have not seen either! thanks for the nice feedback. it is so much fun to learn more about these things for me!
    Cheers!
    Susan

  443. Susan – Kirsten just let me know about the mousse aux betteraves she had in Lourmarin! We definitely *need* to figure out how to make this! I will start researching now! ~David

  444. David,
    Ah, wonderful. If anyone can get to the root (pun intended!) of this mousse, I know you will. Towny was going to call Auberge des Seguins, but I dont think he has. You can simply recreate it on your own! Looking forward to hearing more!
    Best,
    Susan

  445. Hi Lin,

    Wilted greens topped with beets dressed with a wee bit of vinegar and raw sugar and butter AND a piece of ficelle….sounds great!

    Really good to hear from you! Hope to meet again at Cafe Gaby!

    Warm regards,
    Susan

  446. Hi Susan,

    Thanks for the beet info. Just so happens that I had some (yellow and red) roasting in the oven as I read this.

    Also beets are very healing to the liver. My brother had cirrosis of the liver and extreme hepititus. The doctors told him over 30 years ago he would only have 6 mo. to live. He starting juicing raw beets daily and healed his liver. He still juices them periodically now.

    Well I can't wait to come to Provence in Sept. and I will definately look for the beets!

    Aloha,

  447. Hi!
    Thanks so much for this interesting information about the health benefits of beets. I have never had beet juice but am inspired to make some now!

    What a coincidence that you were roasting beets when the blog on beets arrived in your mailbox! I hope they were good.

    Let us know how you enjoyed the cooked beets in the French markets!

    Thanks so much for writing.

    Warm regards,
    Susan

  448. Hi Susan,

    This will be a must see for Chet and I on our next trip. Thank you for sharing! We can't wait to return.

    Love reading The Modern Trobadors!
    Mary Jane

  449. Great list. I gave you a link in my blog. Come check it out sometime

  450. looks like my kind of photo place — wonderful article — need to figure out a trip plan for 013! GG

  451. with this post you have cemented my desire to really really plan a trip there. great photos, mouthwatering food descriptions and wonderful walks all with crystal clear waters nearby. an idyllic spot for sure. thanks for the great posting. gg

  452. The Chateau and our visit to Sormiou has to have been one of the highlights of our visit to Provence. It is exactly as you said, Susan, a place where time seems to stand still. Although it has been almost 4 years since we were there, I can still feel the languor of that day, taste the freshness of our fish and delight in the stunning views as we hiked to the top. Our time there seemed to have filled an entire day, yet somehow we played in Marseille as well. How does that happen?

  453. Everyone should make a space on their "Bucket List" to include this lovely place. It was beautifully described and the pictures were inviting. But hurry before this paradise is discovered and the tourists arrive !!

  454. We sailed (or rather motored) into a couple of the calanques when we were on our way from Marseilles to the Ile des Embiez in 1979. They are, indeed, a natural wonder but a little intimidating since we were all alone and hoping that our charts were up to date. We had a memorable time in Cassis the next day as a storm turned all the streets leading into rivers, depositing lots of flotsam in the lovely harbor.

  455. wonderful suggestions for a future trip. Thanks so much!

  456. Hi gg!
    It truly is an idyllic spot~You would love it! I would love to see the photos you surface with! Thanks for the kind feedback!
    Cheers!
    Susan

  457. THAT was a fabulous day, from start to finish! From the old port in Marseille to our long walk, every moment was memorable! Thanks so much for your note, David!
    Cheers!
    Susan

  458. I need to make a bucket list! Les Calanques are definitely a worthy contender for any one's list. And, yes, you are right about doing it sooner rather than later. One of the reasons that many people did not want to have the area designated a National Park is because they feel the number of tourists visiting will skyrocket.

    Thanks for your thoughtful note.

    Cheers!
    Susan

  459. Oh my–THAT would be a most memorable trip! From the beauty of nature to the havoc it can wreak…. It sounds like a real adventure!

    Thanks so much for your note.

    Regards,
    Susan

  460. Several readers sent emails to me, asking for the telephone number of Le Chateau. Oooops…how did I forget that?!

    Within France, the number is 04 91 25 08 69. And they are open "7j/7 – Midi et soir"!

    Have fun!

  461. I LOVE this place!

  462. Lovely article Susan, my mouth is watering.

  463. Susan
    There should be a warning on your post: DO NOT READ ON AN EMPTY STOMACH AS EXCESSIVE DROOLING COULD OCCUR.

    Your incredible descriptive words made me wish that I could reach out and grab a croissant or two.

    I wonder if they make drooling bibs for adults !!

  464. All the official reviews aside, your recommendation is all I need to know that this place is a gem! I really want to Lear how to make macarons like these and, in fact, bought Pierre Hermé's book. Now I just need to be brave! And maybe order some to be sent in the interim! ~ David

  465. Hi Susan,
    Wow looks delicious, but I'm afraid I will have to wait until I get to Paris for those delicious pastry treats. I live in the country, on the North Shore of Hawaii where the wild chickens follow you down the street. We do have a couple of farmers markets and believe it or not a Frenchman does sell bread and pastries on Sundays. But across the small 2 line street I have some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, Waimea Bay to Sunset Beach. I do have lots of Papayas growing so my idea of a good breakfast here is usually poached eggs on english muffins with some yoghurt and fresh tropical fruits. We do of course have some good bakeries but they are in Honolulu, which we go to once a week or so (1 hour away).

    I can't wait to get to France, my passion is painted ceilings and decorative arts, I have been so curious about Laduree where I will get the best of both worlds! Thanks for your inspiration.

    Aloha from Hawaii,
    Liana

  466. Shall we start a fan club? It IS really wonderful!

  467. Paul,
    Yes,it is the sort of place that makes your mouth water — if I lived nearby, I am afraid I would be constantly drooling!
    Cheers!
    Susan

  468. It is hard to grab just two! I would need the bib and a more serious exercise routine if I lived nearby!

  469. David,
    I recall that you posted a recipe for the single layer macarons that I didn't get to try yet. I have never made any macarons…but hope to change that soon!
    Thanks for the lovely endorsement.
    Cheers!
    Susan

  470. Hi Liana,
    Papayas, poached eggs, and english muffins! Sounds wonderful. The croissants, macarons, and financiers would go well with an afternoon tea while looking out on the water!
    Thanks for your lovely note.
    Best,
    Susan

  471. Hi Mary Jane,
    The wonderful thing about Provence is that there is always more to do! Thanks for your note, Mary Jane!
    Best,
    Susan

  472. Hi GG,
    Yes, we must get you and your camera over there!
    Cheers!
    Susan

  473. There is always so much to do and, of course, in Provence, there is always the pull to simply relax!
    Thanks for your note!
    Susan

  474. nice posting.. thanks for sharing.

  475. Thanks for another wonderful read from The Modern Trobadors! It’s a very sunny, very HOT Sunday in Malta…and I’d dearly love to be lifting a glass of that lovely rose with my Sunday Brunch. Your description of the chateau and its rose wines reminded me of my first introduction to roses (too many decades ago) and how pitifully poor they were – sweet+simple in the worst possible way – and how wonderfully the quality has improved in the production of roses since then! Enjoy!!! : )

    • Hi Cloe,
      I would gladly fill my suitcase with rosé if I could go to Malta! When you return to Portsmouth, we will open a bottle. Thanks for your note (and for the great NPR link regarding beets!)

  476. Thanks for another wonderful read from The Modern Trobadors! It's a very sunny, very HOT Sunday in Malta…and I'd dearly love to be lifting a glass of that lovely rose with my Sunday Brunch. Your description of the chateau and its rose wines reminded me of my first introduction to roses (too many decades ago) and how pitifully poor they were – sweet+simple in the worst possible way – and how wonderfully the quality has improved in the production of roses since then! Enjoy!!! : )

  477. Lovely article, Susan!
    Jenny

  478. Lovely article, Susan!
    Jenny

  479. i so enjoyed this piece — summertime in all its splendor! plus the wonderful information you always have to share. GG

  480. global grammy July 15, 2012 at 2:53 pm

    i so enjoyed this piece — summertime in all its splendor! plus the wonderful information you always have to share. GG

  481. Looking at Mark’s photos really takes me back to the day we visited the chateau. I remember my first taste of this particular rosé’s older sister (thank you, M. Mayle!) – the distinct, surprising yet not unwelcome flavor of banana hit my taste buds. We liked it so much that we even brought home two bottles to the U.S., for which we were glad when we opened them the next summer.

    I do hope the new owners continue the tradition of fine wines, especially the rosés…

    Speaking of rosé, I think it is time to chill a bottle for this evening’s meal!

    ~ David

    • Mark’s photos really captured the tranquility of the grounds. It is a lovely place!

      I recall the banana “essence” vividly. It sounds like it would be a strange, intrusive taste but, on the contrary, it was most welcome.

      Nothing like a chilled crisp rosé on those blazing hot Tucson evenings! What did you open?

      Thanks for writing!

    • I also want to tell you what a wonderful Bastille Day post you wrote! Muriel’s tomato tart is one of our very favorite recipes. Reading your post so inspired us that we turned on the oven on one of the most hot and humid days of the summer just to cook the tart! It was delicious!

      I encourage our readers to read David’s recent post on http://cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com/ …you won’t be disappointed!

  482. Looking at Mark's photos really takes me back to the day we visited the chateau. I remember my first taste of this particular rosé's older sister (thank you, M. Mayle!) – the distinct, surprising yet not unwelcome flavor of banana hit my taste buds. We liked it so much that we even brought home two bottles to the U.S., for which we were glad when we opened them the next summer.

    I do hope the new owners continue the tradition of fine wines, especially the rosés…

    Speaking of rosé, I think it is time to chill a bottle for this evening's meal!

    ~ David

  483. What a wonderful blog! Thank you for sharing it Susan.

    I remember a Bastille Day at Chez Manfull. Susan and Townie had invited several young French students over for the evening. In addition to wonderful food and wine we had a memorable discussion about love.

    I had started the conversation with a question about whether the French were truly as romantic as their reputation. A lively debate ensued with the young French men saying that it was a ridiculous notion, while the ladies disagreed. It became quite animated and I had much difficulty following the French however I believe the argument was won by the ladies.

    One the young women brought up an imaginary flower, began to pull off the petals while reciting a poem similar to the American verse of "He loves me, he loves me not." As a child or young teen I remember this game with it's two options limited to either being loved, or not.

    Apparently the flower game originated in France as "effeuiller la marguerite." I looked this up online and here are the options of love in French that won the argument ""Il/Elle m'aime un peu, beaucoup, passionnément, à la folie, pas du tout" (translates to "He/She loves me a little, a lot, passionately, madly, not at all"). If I remember correctly the group continued their lists well beyond the traditional game and added more and more phrases that young friends might use to embarrass and tease their friends. By this point I lost all ability to follow the French and fortunately they began to try to translate these phrases for me. Throughout the translations, and by the end of the discussion, all of us were laughing so hard I doubt there was a dry eye among us.

    Thank you Susan and Townie for a lovely evening and irreplaceable memories.

  484. Dear Susan,

    Your blog this morning brought back good memories of meeting Monsieur Chevalier in 2008 on our first trip to Lourmarin. So glad we did. Sorry to hear of his passing. The perfect small French winery. Lovely wine…I really liked his red too.

    Cheers,

    Monte

  485. Dear Susan,

    Your blog this morning brought back good memories of meeting Monsieur Chevalier in 2008 on our first trip to Lourmarin. So glad we did. Sorry to hear of his passing. The perfect small French winery. Lovely wine…I really liked his red too.

    Cheers,

    Monte

  486. Hi Monte,
    Thanks for your lovely note and for the photos, too. It is clear from the pictures that you and your wife enjoyed yourselves, as have we, at Chateau Constantin-Chevalier. Let’s hope that the same spirit inhabits the new endeavor.

  487. Hi Monte,
    Thanks for your lovely note and for the photos, too. It is clear from the pictures that you and your wife enjoyed yourselves, as have we, at Chateau Constantin-Chevalier. Let's hope that the same spirit inhabits the new endeavor.

  488. Hi Cloe,
    I would gladly fill my suitcase with rosé if I could go to Malta! When you return to Portsmouth, we will open a bottle. Thanks for your note (and for the great NPR link regarding beets!)

  489. Hi Jenny,
    Thanks for the positive feedback and thanks for your advice in writing this piece.

  490. Hi GG,
    I suspect there are some decent rosé imports in Florida! Thanks for such nice feedback!

  491. Mark's photos really captured the tranquility of the grounds. It is a lovely place!

    I recall the banana "essence" vividly. It sounds like it would be a strange, intrusive taste but, on the contrary, it was most welcome.

    Nothing like a chilled crisp rosé on those blazing hot Tucson evenings! What did you open?

    Thanks for writing!

  492. I also want to tell you what a wonderful Bastille Day post you wrote! Muriel's tomato tart is one of our very favorite recipes. Reading your post so inspired us that we turned on the oven on one of the most hot and humid days of the summer just to cook the tart! It was delicious!

    I encourage our readers to read David's recent post on http://cocoaandlavender.blogspot.com/ …you won't be disappointed!

  493. Okay, so where can I buy this wine? Is it expensive? I have to have it!

  494. Okay, so where can I buy this wine? Is it expensive? I have to have it!

  495. Looks lovely, might have to seek it out. Then again, we drink far too much rosé here as it is, we don’t really need the encouragement!

  496. Looks lovely, might have to seek it out. Then again, we drink far too much rosé here as it is, we don't really need the encouragement!

  497. Thanks for the thorough discussion of this problem facing the lavender growing region of Provence. Very interesting, yet sad. I fear that as the planet warms and certain insect infestations become more destructive, we may see more examples of this kind of situation. A good reminder we should all be doing all we can to reduce our footprint!

  498. global grammy July 23, 2012 at 1:14 pm

    what a wonderful post — beautiful photographs and i learned so much about the different forms of lavender. it surely is sad to learn of the current problems which sound as if they could get worse. thanks for such great reporting.

  499. No, no, no……. Say it isn't so…… I've always wanted to see the lavender fields in Provence!

  500. This is such an alarming post to read. I hope that scientists are able to hybridize a new variety of lavender that is equally as fragrant yet immune to the cicadelle. It would be impossible to imagine Provence without her lavender. In fact, the idea of the Abbaye de Sénanque without the fields of lavender is so very sad. ~ David

  501. Hi Susan, I just want to say “lovely” and in that it lets you know that we are still reading and enjoying your blogs.

  502. Hi Susan, I just want to say "lovely" and in that it lets you know that we are still reading and enjoying your blogs.

  503. Mary Norcross July 29, 2012 at 1:02 pm

    I also loved seeing the games of petanque AND drinking the pastis! Also, thanks for the info re the French language courses.

  504. In the Maltese Islands a similar game is played on a long, earthen court…with similar players of the Mediterranean persuasion. Here it is called BOCCI. I was intrigued to notice the difference between the thrown object! In Malta the men throw a round heavy ball, but in Gozo, our charming neighboring farming island to the north of Malta, they throw a cylindrical 'ball'. It was explained to me that this game originated here from Sicily, where it is played with the cylindrical 'ball'…and indeed, Gozo is north of Malta, and therefore just a bit closer to Sicily than Malta, approximately a mere 60 miles away! I, too, love watching a game of Bocci, and have my favorite bar+restaurant in one of the Gozo villages, where there is a covered/roofed bocci court incorporated into the structure of the restaurant, so the old-timers can play in comfort all year 'round. : )

  505. We, also, have spent many pleasant hours in Provence watching this game. Never quite understood what was going on, but now (I think) we do!

  506. My Italian uncles always played bocci and, when we say the men playing pétanque in Saignon, it took me back. So sorry your lawn isn't up to the pétanque standards… but we are always happy to help with the pastis

  507. Pierre et Muriel July 30, 2012 at 12:00 am

    Hello !

    Oh que ça fait du bieng de revoir cet extrait d'anthologie, de Pagnol! Personne n'a jamais fait mieux : toute la mauvaise foi marseillaise est dans ces répliques-là…

    Avoir les boules, c'est aussi une expression qui peut vouloir dire avoir peur, ou alors être tracassé, avoir du ressentiment

    J'espère qu'on jouera ensemble, à Lourmarin : je n'ai plus eu de boules en main depuis une dizaine d'année, je crois !!!

    Tendresses vers vous,
    Mumu & Pierrot

  508. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  509. The Petague games remind me of the Bocci Ball games that were played in San Francisco's North Beach District. This was when North Beach was known for it's Beatniks.
    The Beatnik era, circa 1948,preceded the Haight-Ashbury Hippies. This was an era of discontent. poets ran rampant. The evening hours brought them all out,some reading poetry and others hawking political views.
    The only lasting pastime was the Bocci Ball. After reading your interesting account of the Petague games, I can see that it was played for many years before Bocci Ball. I have an idea that it was the Patis that kept them going !!!

  510. loved this one especially since i have many photos of the men playing in paris and have to say their facial expressions were wonderfully charming — and one night on ile de la cite a group of young people playing at 10 pm whilst we were having dinner in one of the places there. as always, lovely writing.

  511. What an amazing and fun evening that was! And the evening before, as well, when we discussed the plan for the menu. The comment about “street lights in Paris on a foggy evening” made us want to watch Midnight in Paris when we returned. In fact, we have been on a French movie kick ever since. Thank you both for a truly memorable visit – we opened a rosé last evening and thought of you. ~ David

    • When I read your comment, I opened a rosé so that we could toast to you and the others who made the evening so fun! I think you and Mark should return soon for Round II!

  512. What an amazing and fun evening that was! And the evening before, as well, when we discussed the plan for the menu. The comment about "street lights in Paris on a foggy evening" made us want to watch Midnight in Paris when we returned. In fact, we have been on a French movie kick ever since. Thank you both for a truly memorable visit – we opened a rosé last evening and thought of you. ~ David

  513. Ginny and Brian August 6, 2012 at 11:20 am

    Terrific post! Please let us know about your plans to take groups over to Provence!

    • Hi Ginny and Brian,
      Please send me your email(s) so that we may keep you posted. We will be returning to Provence soon to begin to set up this venture! Thanks for your interest–it will be fun!

  514. Ginny and Brian August 6, 2012 at 3:20 pm

    Terrific post! Please let us know about your plans to take groups over to Provence!

  515. Rose Wine Tasting is certainly a lot more fun than 50 Shades of Grey !! At least you have two hands free to write down your responses.
    Themes are always a pleasure to create. With Rose Wines, I can picture whimsicle Pink elephants with trunks curled around long stemmed Pink wine glasses toasting each other as petals from Pink roses float to the ground. A fitting tribute to a fine Rose wine.
    Before you lock me up, thanks for the light entertainment and the much appreciated education on pink wines.

  516. Rose Wine Tasting is certainly a lot more fun than 50 Shades of Grey !! At least you have two hands free to write down your responses.
    Themes are always a pleasure to create. With Rose Wines, I can picture whimsicle Pink elephants with trunks curled around long stemmed Pink wine glasses toasting each other as petals from Pink roses float to the ground. A fitting tribute to a fine Rose wine.
    Before you lock me up, thanks for the light entertainment and the much appreciated education on pink wines.

  517. Thanks for this thorough and entertaining article on rosé wines! I am going to forward it to a friend who lives in Provence and took us wine tasting at the fabulous winery of Le Chêne Bleu. (More on that in my next La Dolce Vita California post.) You have covered lots of wonderful information to share!

    • Hi Kirsten,
      We will look for Le Chêne Bleu wines, especially the viognier, when we are in Provence (soon!). And, to my readers, I recommend Kirsten’s blog, especially recent posts about Provence.

  518. Thanks for this thorough and entertaining article on rosé wines! I am going to forward it to a friend who lives in Provence and took us wine tasting at the fabulous winery of Le Chêne Bleu. (More on that in my next La Dolce Vita California post.) You have covered lots of wonderful information to share!

  519. Just like the macarons de pistache, you can color me green! I need to get to NYC for a class – so reasonably priced and obviously worth it! Your history of the macaron was wonderful, too – so much I never knew! Merci mille fois! ~ David

  520. Susan, the macarons you made were incredible! Towny generously put three in a bag for me. My plan was to savor one each night. When I nibbled at the first – pistachio – it was so delicious I simply had to try the vanilla, and then the chocolate. I can't remember when I've had a confection that was that good before.
    It was particularly sweet to have them after the somewhat sour day I had had. Thank you thank you, they were so yummy!!!!

  521. What a marvelous article !! So beautifully written that I could almost taste them. The pictures were incredible. All in all I enjoyed meeting your friends and was wishing that I could join in the fun that you were having !! I can hardly wait to see what what your next adventure will be. I'm sure that you will find many more reasons for going to Paris, so I won't worry that one of them is crossed off your list.

  522. Lovely article again Susan, especially licking the spoon, that one of my favourite things to do when I'm baking, or if Anne is baking and she turns her back for one second.

  523. Yummy article. Macarons beautiful enough for a still life painting!

  524. Hi Susan,

    Am so looking forward to your macaroons next time you visit. What a great article and pictures, never saw such lovely colored macaroons. Lillian

  525. Ok, Susan, I give up…my iPad and your blog don’t like eachother.
    I loved this article….TOOD has chosen a couple of places to visit to taste roses…she, the beer drinker…
    I too am headed to Provence…… And I am so pumped, as I thought I had “had” my “France trip” for this year in January…but as TOOD so charitably pointed out…I’m not getting any younger!
    I have a domestic suggestion for you that is both fun and yummy…Charles and Charles Rose. If you buy a case of it (I did after tasting one bottle) there is, inside the case, a bumper sticker that reads “You CAN drink rose’ and still be a BAD ASS!” — you’ve gotta try it! I would say things
    Ike cherry, watermelon, even maybe red raspberry… And give me some more! If you can find it and do taste it , let me know what you think?
    When are you going to France?
    OOXX,

    • Hi Lin,
      I am working with our tech person regarding the iPad challenges. I think we have them resolved for our website, http://www.rentourhomeinprovence.com, but with the blog, it is a little more challenging!

      Thanks for the recommendation–I will definitely look for that rose!

      And, very glad to hear that you will be heading over to one of your (our) favorite areas of the world soon!

  526. Ok, Susan, I give up…my iPad and your blog don't like eachother.
    I loved this article….TOOD has chosen a couple of places to visit to taste roses…she, the beer drinker…
    I too am headed to Provence…… And I am so pumped, as I thought I had "had" my "France trip" for this year in January…but as TOOD so charitably pointed out…I'm not getting any younger!
    I have a domestic suggestion for you that is both fun and yummy…Charles and Charles Rose. If you buy a case of it (I did after tasting one bottle) there is, inside the case, a bumper sticker that reads "You CAN drink rose' and still be a BAD ASS!" — you've gotta try it! I would say things
    Ike cherry, watermelon, even maybe red raspberry… And give me some more! If you can find it and do taste it , let me know what you think?
    When are you going to France?
    OOXX,

  527. When I read your comment, I opened a rosé so that we could toast to you and the others who made the evening so fun! I think you and Mark should return soon for Round II!

  528. Hi Ginny and Brian,
    Please send me your email(s) so that we may keep you posted. We will be returning to Provence soon to begin to set up this venture! Thanks for your interest–it will be fun!

  529. Do you think we could create a theme combing shades of pink AND shades of grey? hmmm….maybe not!

  530. Hi Kirsten,
    We will look for Le Chêne Bleu wines, especially the viognier, when we are in Provence (soon!). And, to my readers, I recommend Kirsten's blog, especially recent posts about Provence.

  531. Hi Lin,
    I am working with our tech person regarding the iPad challenges. I think we have them resolved for our website, http://www.rentourhomeinprovence.com, but with the blog, it is a little more challenging!

    Thanks for the recommendation–I will definitely look for that rose!

    And, very glad to hear that you will be heading over to one of your (our) favorite areas of the world soon!

  532. This class was the most fun and informative cooking class I have ever had! And, to take home a box of beautiful macarons, too!

    Thanks for your note!

  533. Heidi,
    I am so glad that you loved them as much as we did! I can't wait to try making them!

  534. Thank you for your kind comments! It was incredibly fun–the 3+ hours flew by! And you are so right–there is always a reason to go to Paris!

  535. Ah, licking the spoon…I look forward to making my own to do just that! Good to hear from you, Paul!

  536. Mary Jane,
    And you could do it justice on canvas! On the subject of paintings, well, paintings and restaurants or, specifically, your painting of Lou Pebre's, we are going to Lourmarin soon and will try to get to that restaurant. I just read that Peter Mayle lists that among his favorites in the area!

  537. Thanks, Lillian! I do hope to make them soon and will be sure to make plans to get together with you!

  538. Merci! Je suis content!

  539. Susan – I did an exchange with a Parisian family when I was 17 years old. They took me with them to Guethary, near Biarritz, for a two week vacation. So many things about that trip left an indelible impression on me, but one of the most lasting effects was a love of espadrilles! All the French teens, who seemed impossibly chic, were wearing them. I can still remember the tiny shop where I bought my first pair for about $3. I still search them out and never buy ones made anywhere but France or Spain. Thanks for a walk down memory lane! – Kirsten

  540. Vernis August 27, 2012

    Susan, had I known you were buying espadrilles, I would have ordered 10 pairs, at the very least……especially the blue and white striped ones!!!

  541. I have never tried espadrilles but wish I had gotten myself a pair when we were over! Do you remember looking all over for them AFTER we had been to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue? We finally found some in Lourmarin to bring back to my colleague… It is fun to know the history, and I loved the photos of all the actors wearing them. So cool… ~ David

  542. I loved learning the background on these wonderful summer shoes! I still have (and wear) some old ones bought in Collioure with our mutual friends, Mary and Brian. Thanks so much for this!

  543. Hi Susan and Towney,
    I, too, am interested in your rozay wine tours. Please keep us posted.
    Brian Taylor

  544. Hi Susan and Towney,
    I, too, am interested in your rozay wine tours. Please keep us posted.
    Brian Taylor

  545. Now, there you go making us want to go to Provence again! The tasting and the dinner both sound delight-filled. Will you manage to recreate any of your dishes for us? The Tiramisu-à-Tomates sounds especially good to me, too! ~ David

  546. Now, there you go making us want to go to Provence again! The tasting and the dinner both sound delight-filled. Will you manage to recreate any of your dishes for us? The Tiramisu-à-Tomates sounds especially good to me, too! ~ David

  547. A fun read on La Coquillade! Merci bien! And I appreciate the small carte
    which localizes the village for me: Not too far east of Avignon. Perhaps I’ll
    get there un de ces jours / one of these days.

    That Vaucluse blanc 2011 which has ‘beaucoup de graisse’ (the good kind!) sounds
    awfully good, especially with that light white fish you had.

    And, yes, the region sounds enchanting from April to October. Wonder if they
    had the quantity of rain that Normandy did last spring: lots and lots!

    The word ‘coquillade’ I am unable to locate in my dictionaries. Is this a
    variant on the spelling of the bird’s name? Sounds like a lovely creature to behold.

    All the best et à bientôt,
    Henry

    PS Spent four weeks à Paris July-Aug. (even with my bothersome knee I was able to get around just fine, albeit at a rather slow pace.) with wonderful friends, fine expos, promenades, good food & wine, excellent pastries(!), etc. And oveer three weeks of lovely weather.

  548. A fun read on La Coquillade! Merci bien! And I appreciate the small carte
    which localizes the village for me: Not too far east of Avignon. Perhaps I'll
    get there un de ces jours / one of these days.

    That Vaucluse blanc 2011 which has 'beaucoup de graisse' (the good kind!) sounds
    awfully good, especially with that light white fish you had.

    And, yes, the region sounds enchanting from April to October. Wonder if they
    had the quantity of rain that Normandy did last spring: lots and lots!

    The word 'coquillade' I am unable to locate in my dictionaries. Is this a
    variant on the spelling of the bird's name? Sounds like a lovely creature to behold.

    All the best et à bientôt,
    Henry

    PS Spent four weeks à Paris July-Aug. (even with my bothersome knee I was able to get around just fine, albeit at a rather slow pace.) with wonderful friends, fine expos, promenades, good food & wine, excellent pastries(!), etc. And oveer three weeks of lovely weather.

  549. My husband and I were there for dinner this past summer. As you wrote, everything about it was lovely: the setting, the service, the meal, the price. I regret that we did not know that we could visit the winery. Next time!

  550. My husband and I were there for dinner this past summer. As you wrote, everything about it was lovely: the setting, the service, the meal, the price. I regret that we did not know that we could visit the winery. Next time!

  551. I love the concept of combining the photography and painting. And that the 'real' is in black and white, while the 'fantasy' is in color. Kind of Wizard of Oz-ish! Alas, we wont' be able to get there, but at least had a mini-tour through TMT. Thanks! ~ David

  552. This exhibit looks so cool. I wish we could jump on a plane and go back!

  553. Susan,
    Thank you and Jacqueline Bricard for bring back the NAIFS for an encore.

    They are my favorite group of people. Their eyes are so penetrating and pure. The brilliant colors radiate happiness and trust. I doubt these trusting beings could survive in our world today, for they could detect pure evil in the making.

    Let's hope love will prevail and save us all. Long live the NAIFS and their spirit.

  554. Hello – did you ever end up being able to eat here? My husband and I are currently in France, and think this looks fantastic. The phone number and email both are not working. Merci!

  555. What a poem!
    Brian

  556. This place sounds idyllic! We will definitely keep it in mind for future visits. I have been meaning to ask, what are September and October like in the Luberon? Inquiring minds want to know… ~ David

  557. Hi there,
    Le Castellas is a wonderfully fun place to eat. It is not always that one can mention fun and excellent food in the same sentence…here you can! We were there for dinner in August and had a most memorable meal. Thank you for bringing the old number to my attention–it is 04 90 74 30 81.

    Let us know how your dinner is?

    Best regards,
    Susan

  558. Was I waxing lyrical too much about how lovely and relaxing the Tuilieres property is?

    I probably could be inspired to write poetry there!

    Thanks for your note, Brian!

  559. September and the beginning of October are one of my very favorite times to visit. The weather is pleasant, even quite warm some years, and the markets are still in nearly full swing, but there are not the crowds of people to navigate through on the streets. The lighting is lovely, as usual. It can rain and, as you move into October, that becomes more likely…still there are things to do or the dampness might inspire a fire, a bottle of wine, and cooking, and so on!!

  560. Where does one subscribe to the noted Provence NEWSLETTER? My wife & I recently vacationed in Aix and plan to spend 6-8 weeks in that area next year.

    Thanks! Jim B. In sunny FL

  561. I think Forcslquier is terribly under rated–I love it too!

  562. What a seductive invitation…for next time. Lovely pictures and impressions.

  563. Nice job on Forcalquier! Cool to see the Absente poster with a drunk Van Gogh to the left of the door in your Distilleries photo. We went to Forcalquier expressly for that poster, having seen one in the "cave" under the chateau in Lourmarin and been told that we could only get it in Forcalquier. We bought one which we hung on the wall of our "Provencal porch". Also, if you don't know it yet, don't miss Giono's "L'Homme qui plantait des arbres" and the Canadian animated film of the same name made from it; it's a wholly inspiring ecological tale of the difference that one person can make. And the animation is WONDERFUL! David and Trisha Flaccus

  564. And there is much that I did not mention!

    Forcalquier's architecture is really lovely–the cinema, for example, has a beautiful entrance off the main square which, in the 17th century, was the facade of the Convent of the Visitandines.

    The area surrounding Forcalquier is also very pretty–lots of farmland and rolling hills, dotted with bories (small stone huts that I am always intrigued by).

    Why is it so underrated?

    Thanks for your comment!

  565. There is always more to do and see in Provence!

    Thank you for your note!

  566. David and Trisha,

    So very good to hear from you! I hope you are both well.

    I love that poster, too, and have a very small version in our kitchen. I recall when you were decorating that porch!

    I have not read the book you mention although I have read much about it. Nor have I seem the film but I will look for it. Giono was a very interesting man who was often misunderstood in his own time.

    Thanks so much for your comment!

  567. I think that part of its allure is that it isn't overly touristed! It is definitely on my list for a future visit. Is it a nice area to stay for a week? Thanks, Susan, for another eye-opener! ~ David

  568. Love the atmospheric description of the market, the ruined citadel, etc. And of course the pictures. Is that a Deaux Cheveaux? It reminds me in its not-too-distant quaintness of the Fiat 500s that swarmed the streets of Italy in the 1970s. The hat lady is a great shot, and the bag lady looks like she deserves a story of her own! – Mark

  569. Dear Susan, great article! and beautiful pictures. In fact I'd much rather be going to Provence than stay in Paris…. It would be so great to be there again and go to Forcalquier. Come over Susan, and we can go together and skip all the food shops. A bientot chère amie, Janine K.,

  570. What an eye dazzling array of brilliant and beautiful colors !! How does one ever choose ? Such an exciting place to shop. The pictures are spectacular.

    Wish I could arm myself with a LARGE shopping bag and go there now !!

  571. One of the most memorable meals of my life, there in the shade of a chestnut tree, with gorgeous views, simple but sublime food, free-flowing wine, and the best imaginable company! – Mark

  572. Ditto from this computer! Truly one of the most memorable afternoons I have ever had! I definitely want/need to go back again soon! ~ David

  573. What FUN, especially for the children !! That will be a memorable experience that years from now they'll remember and tell their grandchildren about the time they had dinner with the animals.

    The adults will no doubt remember the delicious food and wine and festive day as well as the special four footed guests.

    So, I hope you take plenty of pictures to show friends and

  574. continued from previous post: relatives. I have a feeling you're making some very important memories.

  575. As an ex-African (South) I thought this was very interesting…lovely photographs!

  576. Passiontide? Alias Philippa Rees.

  577. Nice to have you back! Have missed reading you… And thanks for putting on the exhibition and for including my work alongside such accomplished photographers. I so wish I could be there to see it but, from the one photo, it looks amazing. ~ David

  578. Gorgeous pictures of a land that so many of us know so little about. Beautifully put together by large group of caring and talented people.

    Thank you for your enlightenment and education.

  579. Phillippa,
    This truly is a terrific collection of photographs. Johann Hattingh, from South Africa, contributed five beautiful and moving photos!

  580. Passiontide? I will have to go to your Linked-In page to see where your alter ego comes from!

  581. Your photos are wonderful! Those charming faces warm my heart every time I look at them! Thank YOU for contributing them.

  582. It is interesting to hear many of our visitors — who know some parts of Africa so well — comment how little they know about other neighboring areas of Africa. It truly is an amazingly diverse continent!

  583. Here in the UK winter is setting in with short days, dull and wet, then I read your article, it brings a smile to my face and reminds me of summer, thank you so much Susan.

  584. Wow – this looks so good! I can't wait to try it. And so wonderful to see all the lovely photos of Muriel and Pierre… Happy Thanksgiving! ~ David

  585. I can vouch to all the merits of blanc de poulet a la Normandie especially as served at Susan's table, prepared by her own fair hand. Brian

  586. Your article is really informative to learn French language. It is really great work. I am learner of french language . I have taken basic french course for learning french language. I have learnt many things from you which is useful to learn french language . Thanks for sharing this lesson with us.

  587. Good day! It was so fantastic to visit this blog and to read this post. I also would like to ask you something about this blog. Have you ever done guest blogging?

  588. Why not try the australian truffle experience?
    tuber melanosporum is beingcultivated very successfully in eastern australian state of new south wales, particularly in the Canberra, Braidwood , Tarago and Marulan areas.
    The next truffle harvesting season should commence in early june of 2013. To learn more, contact Anne of Tarago Truffles – dasturgi@activ8.net.au

  589. Organizing: Targets vs. Goals – PART 1 OF 2

    It's traditional at the beginning of the year to define what you'd like to achieve in the coming twelve months.

    That's a good thing and I highly recommend it. This
    week I'll be writing my own annual plan for the coming year.

    However, I'd like to point out an area where just about everybody uses fuzzy thinking in their planning.

    We don't control our future entirely.

    Some things we can control, of course. But some we just can't. It's crucial to know the difference.

    If you're looking for an agent, you have complete
    control over how many queries you send out. But you
    can't force an agent to agree to represent you. All you can do is make yourself an attractive client, send out those pesky queries, and hope that one of the agents sees how brilliant you are.

    What we need are two different words, one for goals
    that we can control, and one for goals that we can't. As far as I know, we don't have those words. We could make some up, but I don't think that's necessary.

    Instead, let's just define a "Goal" (with a capital
    letter) to be something we have control over, and let's define a "Target" to be something we only have partial control over.

  590. PART 2 of 2

    "I will write 10,000 words every week" is a Goal.

    "I will become the best writer in my critique group" is a Target.

    "I will attend one major writing conference this year" is a Goal.

    "I will get two editors at conferences to request
    manuscripts" is a Target.

    "I will send out 20 queries to agents in March" is a
    Goal.

    "I will sign with an agent by July" is a Target.

    Goals are good. Targets are also good. But they're not the same thing.

    You can make a list of Goals for the year that is 100% achievable. At the end of the year, if you haven't reached all those Goals, then you have a right to hold yourself accountable.

    You can make a list of Targets for the year, but you
    just can't assume they're achievable. It's OK if
    they're a bit of a stretch. It's OK to aim for a
    spectacular year and end up with a merely great year. (For some people, the only way to achieve their best is to shoot for the impossible.)

    But it's a mistake to confuse Goals with Targets. That only sets you up for self-flagellation at the end of the year, if you don't reach all your Targets.

    An important point is that Targets usually depend on
    Goals. So set your Targets first. Then figure out what Goals you must meet in order to make your Targets as likely as possible.

    Let's see how that works out in practice. Suppose one of your Targets is "I want to sign with a major agent this year."

    If you're a first-time novelist, then you probably
    can't get an agent unless your manuscript is complete and polished. You also can't get an agent unless you pitch to at least one (and probably several).

    So here are five reasonable Goals you can set in
    support of your Target:

    * I will complete my manuscript by the end of March.

    * I will hire a professional freelance editor to
    evaluate my manuscript, with a deadline to get the
    evaluation back to me by the end of June.

    * I will polish my manuscript to the best of my ability by the end of August.

    * I will send out a minimum of 10 queries to suitable agents in September.

    * I will attend a writing conference in September or
    October and pitch my work to two suitable agents.

    Now if you hit all five of these Goals, there is no
    guarantee that you'll sign with an agent. But the odds of signing with an agent are vastly higher if you achieve all five of these Goals than if you achieve none of them.

    Targets depend on Goals. But Goals don't guarantee
    Targets.

    Here is a five-minute exercise that you can do right
    now to create a reasonable set of Targets and Goals:

    What are your Targets for the coming year? A good
    Target is concrete, objective, and difficult. But it's not necessarily achievable. There is a part that depends on other people.

    For each Target, set one or more Goals that depend on you alone. Goals should be concrete, objective,
    difficult, and ACHIEVABLE.

    Do you have any other Goals for the coming year
    (besides the ones you need to reach your Targets)?

    Write down all your Targets and your Goals and post
    them above your workspace. Make it clear which Targets depend on which Goals.

    Look at your Targets and Goals every day before you
    start work. If you need to revise your Goals throughout the year, that's OK. It's fine to be flexible. If a great opportunity comes up during the year, change your Targets and Goals to include it.

    A year from now, review your Goals first and then your Targets:

    * Did you hit all of your Goals? If not, then figure
    out why. You may not have given yourself enough time. Or you may need to improve your work habits. Or it may be that your writing has a lower priority than other things in your life.

    * Did you hit any of your Targets? If not, was it
    because you failed to achieve the required Goals, or
    was it outside of your control?

    Planning your year doesn't need to be complicated. But it does need to be clear. You control your destiny with your Goals. You don't completely control it with your Targets.

    Happy New Year!
    Lin

  591. I would say that my resolutions are less noble than most. As they are simple:
    • be kind
    • be nice
    • be thoughtful
    • be healthy
    • be organized

    Pretty much, for me, everything I need to do falls in one of those categories. I thought a lot about "kind" and "nice" – they sound so similar but are really very different in my eyes.

    It is wonderful to see you back online, and I will look forward to your posts!

    Bonne Année, mes amis!

    ~ David

  592. One never knows what a desire to learn French might lead to. Brian

  593. As you said at the begining Susan "if you are lucky enough to be alive as another year begins, embrace it. It is a gift.
    These are such beautiful words that I will not add to them, thank you.
    Best wishes for the New Year
    Paul

  594. My resolution is to make plans to return to Lourmarin! Your happy renter,
    Henry

  595. Merci bien! Thanks so much! Fun reading about the twelve days of Xmas. and la
    Gallette des Rois. When I say to someone, 'How's your Xmas. Season going?', They might say they 'had a good Xmas.' Then I might say, 'That first day of Xmas. was relaxing and enjoyable with friends and we're now in the eighth
    day…'

    Bonne Année! to you and yours.

    All the best,
    Henry

  596. Being Queen for a day was the most "delicious" honor I've ever received. As the Queen, I will rule that everyone have a Happy and Prosperous New Year.

    May 2013 be a lucky year for all. Above all, may it bring health, wealth, and wisdom

  597. Being under the table takes on a whole new meaning! Nice post.

  598. Does this mean more cruise ships lining up to dock? There goes the neighborhood!

    Ciao !
    Henry

  599. Interesting blog on MARSEILLE…Thanks, Susan!

    The only thing I know about Marseille is that MANY of the processional statues for the Feasts in Malta and our smaller island, Gozo were made in Marseille, so at one time, if not now, it was considered THE place to order your Festa Statue, if a parish had the money to afford a luxury made from abroad. Churches here in Malta and Gozo, even now, are quick to tell you if their statue was made in Marseille! It's a "badge of honour"…distinction and prestige. I was told the processional statue of Our Lady of Loreto in Ghajnsielem, Gozo (where I have a summer retreat from the heat) was made in Marseille.

  600. Thanks for a well-written and informative post on Marseille! The two guys in hot pink are decidedly NOT American tourists! 🙂 – Kirsten

  601. I remember our short visit to Marseille (on the way to Les Calanques with you all) vividly – the North African Market, of course, where we bought our tagine and went in and out of the most fascinating spice shops… and of all my photos, the "Pink Boys" (as I like to call them) is one of my favorites. Yes, I think the NY Times was right to put Marseille on the list, and just for the reasons you mentioned – it hasn't yet become a parody of itself for the sake tourism (Disney-fied, as I am wont to say), though it might now… Merci for a wonderful article and reminiscence! ~ David

  602. I adore our new Queen! And I am glad she got it, being so close to her birthday! Now, I must ask – how could you NOT give us an official recipe? I need details, chère amie! ~ David

  603. Hi Henry,
    I completely agree–12 days of Christmas is much better than one!

  604. What a fun evening we had! I really encourage everyone to celebrate the Day of the Epiphany with a Galette des Rois next year!

  605. Hmmm…yes it does!

  606. The Queen was great…and her subjects rose to the occasion in splendid form!

    Ah, the recipe…I think you could fine tune it for us all, but basically it requires:

    a package of puff pastry (two sheets), about a pound.

    about a cup of ground almonds (like you, I like Trader Joe's)

    about 1/3 cup sugar (maybe a little more)

    about a half-cube butter, softened

    2 eggs (sometimes I just use one but save some of yolk to glaze the top of the cake)

    dash of vanilla

    dash of cream

    Preheat oven to 400F

    Combine the almonds, sugar, butter, vanilla, cream, and egg(s). Should be the consistency of a paste.

    Roll out each sheet of pastry and cut into a circle about 10 inches wide.

    Put one circle of pastry on baking tray and spread the paste evening. Place the trinket into the paste.

    Place the second sheet on top and press the two pieces together around the edge. Glaze with remaining egg yolk. Using a sharp knife, decorate/cross-cross the top of the galette.

    Bake on bottom rack for about 30 minutes–but watch it. Should be golden. Serve warm. (It can be reheated at about 350F for a few minutes.)

    Make sure to forewarn guests about the trinket! Have a crown ready!

    Let me know what you think…I would like to fine tune the measurements!

  607. Yea…there's always a down side, n'est-ce pas? In fact, I read exactly that: more cruise ships!

  608. Ah, Cloe, thanks for that interesting information! I will have to look up "the feasts of Malta" to see what the statues look like and where they are made. I will let you know. Malta is still on my list of places to visit!

    And, readers, any one who is thinking of Malta, should contact me so I can get you in touch with Cloe who organizes wonderful tours of the area.

  609. A good meal to have in chilly Provence. We've had snow too!

    Thanks for the nice post. I think I may pick up a wedge of raclette at the market this week– maybe from the handsome cheese man in cucuron! (Wink, wink)
    P.

  610. I have had the pleasure of enjoying a raclette dinner while in Portsmouth. There is nothing like it. Trying to describe how delicious it is would be impossible. The fun of the dinner and the comradely of the guests far surpasses any ordinary meal.
    I highly recommend purching a raclette machine. You'll

  611. continued from above–you'll find you have new friends begging to get an invitation to a great experience!

  612. We had our only raclette in Québec City on a cold, autumn day. Loved it! May need to research a raclette grill for Tucson! ~ David

  613. Well, that wasn't what I expected to read this morning, but it was very interesting. So, no women, eh? And, as you mention "don't ask, don't tell" in reference to criminals, do you know how they feel about gay men?

  614. No women. That is clear. Although women are allowed to serve in other branches of the French military.

    As for gay men, they are not banned from serving but "being gay" falls into the category of qualities that make one unfit for service. So, it appears that one can opt out of the service on the basis of his sexual orientation. Interesting.

    I nearly covered this topic–gays in the FFL– in the post as well as other subjects that expose the underbelly of this branch of the French military and, also, the manner in which France has exploited this "foreign" branch (e.g., it is undoubtedly much easier to send foreigners off to a brutal war than it is to dispatch your own citizens). Since I wrote it in the context of going off to fight, I didn't; but there is clearly a long story there.

    I am glad you raised the issue.

  615. The French propaganda machinery has created the "allure" attached to this rag-tag group of lost souls and France has unabashedly exploited them.

    good piece, though.

    AT

  616. I also did not expect to read about this subject this morning, but found it informative and sparked my interest to read more. I enjoy Modern Troubadours! Thank you.

    Mary Jane Conary

  617. Thanks so much for the detailed description of several of the wineries in the Luberon. Like you, we've been spending time in the Luberon for a number of years, based in Bonnieux. You wrote about several wineries we've very familiar with, but also helped us learn about some wines and wineries that are new to us… ideas for our next visit in a few weeks.

    I'm really sorry that you didn't have a positive experience at Chateau la Canorgue. We've been drinking Canorgue wine and visiting their tasting room for eight years now. The wine is excellent, and we've always been very warmly greeted and hosted.

    The Margans' daughter Nathalie joined her father at the winery several years ago, and is now the winemarker, still with his support. Despite the interest in the movie A Good Year, they definitely have their focus on making excellent wines and engaging with their customers… not on being a tourist destination. (And I've never seen a tour bus there… that comment surprises me.)

    Maybe there was something else going on the day you visited… I hope you'll give them another chance!

    Kathy Wood

  618. Thanks so much for the detailed description of several of the wineries in the Luberon. Like you, we’ve been spending time in the Luberon for a number of years, based in Bonnieux. You wrote about several wineries we’ve very familiar with, but also helped us learn about some wines and wineries that are new to us… ideas for our next visit in a few weeks.

    I’m really sorry that you didn’t have a positive experience at Chateau la Canorgue. We’ve been drinking Canorgue wine and visiting their tasting room for eight years now. The wine is excellent, and we’ve always been very warmly greeted and hosted.

    The Margans’ daughter Nathalie joined her father at the winery several years ago, and is now the winemarker, still with his support. Despite the interest in the movie A Good Year, they definitely have their focus on making excellent wines and engaging with their customers… not on being a tourist destination. (And I’ve never seen a tour bus there… that comment surprises me.)

    Maybe there was something else going on the day you visited… I hope you’ll give them another chance!

    Kathy Wood

    • Hi Kathy,
      Thanks for your kind words about Chateau La Canorgue. They reinforce my thoughts that our experience was not typical…nonetheless it was disappointing for our foursome who were very much looking forward to tasting a few wines from this particular chateau.We will try again next summer and, in the mean time, we will continue to enjoy their wines.

      By the way,readers, if your are looking for an excellent tour, Kathy and her husband organize what I hear is a wonderful Luberon experience! Check them out at http://www.luberonexperience.com/

      Thanks for writing!

      Best regards,
      Susan

  619. Hi Kathy,
    Thanks for your kind words about Chateau La Canorgue. They reinforce my thoughts that our experience was not typical…nonetheless it was disappointing for our foursome who were very much looking forward to tasting a few wines from this particular chateau.We will try again next summer and, in the mean time, we will continue to enjoy their wines.

    By the way,readers, if your are looking for an excellent tour, Kathy and her husband organize what I hear is a wonderful Luberon experience! Check them out at http://www.luberonexperience.com/

    Thanks for writing!

    Best regards,
    Susan

  620. Hi Susan,
    Love your site!! You have given us great ideas for this summer.
    Along with my sister and her family, we have rented a large home in Provence. Great times are planned. Your restaurant guide for Lourmarin will serve us well. We plan to do a lot of eating! We have lived in France, but not in Provence!
    When are you going back?
    John

  621. What a great tutorial, Susan! It really did help to understand better all the different regions and appellations. Brava! I see that we missed several wonderful wineries while there – including, with apologies to Pierre, Aurento – so I guess we will need – yes, need – to return! À bientôt, j'espère… ~ David

  622. What a great tutorial, Susan! It really did help to understand better all the different regions and appellations. Brava! I see that we missed several wonderful wineries while there – including, with apologies to Pierre, Aurento – so I guess we will need – yes, need – to return! À bientôt, j’espère… ~ David

  623. Thank you for the newest edition of The Modern Trobadors. I look forward to reading it this evening, in printed format of course. I too love the old post cards, especially the ones from the Victorian era. They were lovely works of art one could hold in their hands and press to their heart if so inclined. Another time, when there actually was such a thing.
    Your faithful follower

  624. Reading your blogpost on postcards with the lovely collection of old cards took me on a nostalgic mind-trip, recalling one of my numerous trips to Malta before moving here. I usually stayed with my godparents in St Julians, and one night after dinner, my godfather, in an attempt to entertain me, brought out an old shoebox which was packed solid with old postcards! As my godparents were the parents of four boys, and my godfather was a career diplomat, there were dozens upon dozens of postcards between the boys and their parents, and even some from me to my godparents when I was working as social directress upon cruise ships! I spent the remainder of that evening with my godparents reading and admiring those old postcards…and later returned to America and culled my correspondence files, pulling all the postcards I could find in order to set up my own box of memories…which now, in today's world of iPads and emails hasn't gotten much attention lately! As another old favorite (song, this time)…Thanks For The Memories! xo : ) Cloe

  625. Reading your blogpost on postcards with the lovely collection of old cards took me on a nostalgic mind-trip, recalling one of my numerous trips to Malta before moving here. I usually stayed with my godparents in St Julians, and one night after dinner, my godfather, in an attempt to entertain me, brought out an old shoebox which was packed solid with old postcards! As my godparents were the parents of four boys, and my godfather was a career diplomat, there were dozens upon dozens of postcards between the boys and their parents, and even some from me to my godparents when I was working as social directress upon cruise ships! I spent the remainder of that evening with my godparents reading and admiring those old postcards…and later returned to America and culled my correspondence files, pulling all the postcards I could find in order to set up my own box of memories…which now, in today's world of iPads and emails hasn't gotten much attention lately! As another old favorite (song, this time)…Thanks For The Memories! xo : ) Cloe

  626. as a regular traveller to Provence, your postcards remind me that so much of Provence has changed so little. thanks for evoking so many pleasant memories.
    Henry

  627. Susan – I have never (until today) thought about the birth of postcards as a medium for messaging. (Apologies to Marshall McLuhan for that…) I, too, love postcards and used to be fanatical about writing and sending them while traveling. Sigh. I, too, have fallen victim to the email updates from travel… Maybe when I got to Venezia in October I will have a change of heart? I just pity anyone who receives anything in my handwriting!

    This made me remember the days when I painted watercolor postcards to send from vacations… how is it that my time was managed so differently?

    While your post is about postcards, it really does bring back the conversation about how little we communicate our thoughts in writing anymore, even in email. We OMG, LOL, GTG (or G2G), LMAO and CUL8R… but we have forgotten to stop and share what we really think about our experiences. I am taking this as a warning to myself to regroup and re-write my future history.

    Hugs, David

    PS – I really enjoyed the addition of the slideshow – watched the first one in its entirety and am heading back to look at the other two!

  628. Une autre expression:
    "se faire rouler dans la farine"
    L’expression de cette semaine « se faire rouler dans la farine » signifie se faire duper ou tromper. On emploie souvent cette expression sous sa forme abrégée en disant qu’une personne s’est fait rouler.

    Cette expression date du XIXe siècle. Une personne qui roule dans la farine une autre, utilise des arguments ou des propos fallacieux, menteurs pour arriver à ses fins. Un tel individu est souvent qualifié de beau parleur. L’emploi du mot « farine » est utilisé ici au sens figuré et représente l’usage d’arguments trompeurs. Il était courant pour les acteurs de l’époque de se couvrir de farine pour cacher leur identité lors d’une représentation ce qui explique cette comparaison très appropriée.

    En anglais l’expression « se faire rouler dans la farine » signifie littéralement “to get swindled”, “to be taken for a ride”. Elle peut aussi se traduire “to be duped” or “to be deceived”.

  629. Dear Susan,

    Thanks for your wonderful rendition of our visit to The Postcards. How much I enjoyed reading your impressions, remembrances of the evening. I absolutely adore the way you've displayed this post, the postcard slide shows, the postcard themselves, the messages they convey – everything about it!

    Happy Valentine's Day!
    xoxo
    Audrey

  630. Susan – Glad to see you included a postcard of the transporter bridge at Marseille. It reminded me of my lifelong liking for transporter bridges. Here are links to a few more transporter bridge postcards:
    Nantes: http://bit.ly/VX7ijU
    Runcorn:
    Newport: http://bit.ly/VgwLdl
    Middlesbrough: http://bit.ly/ZdjEe5 (featured in the movie "Billy Elliot")
    Rochefort: http://bit.ly/VUhK0I (featured in that forgotten movie "Les Demoiselles de Rochefort")
    Brian

  631. Susan,

    Fascinating, the 'Era of the Postcard'! I still send them to friends from
    France, 25-30 per visit. Fun to do!

    Hope to get downto MFA before 14 April.

    Merci bien!

    -Henry

  632. Susan,

    Really enjoyed the postcards, what a wonderful collection, hope to go to MFA to see the exhibit.

    Lillian

  633. Excellent article. Thank you, thank you!

  634. Excellent article. Thank you, thank you!

  635. Again, these are wonderful and a great glimpse into life during those times. Our modern postcards really don't do that, do they? But I guess with social media being what it is, there is almost no room for them in our society. Thank you, Susan, for this post and for being a champion of the lowly postcard – both in this blog post but also with the ones you send (that are cherished by the recipients!). ~ David

  636. Hi Lillian,

    I am so glad you enjoyed the postcards. I am grateful to both friends both letting me share part of their respective collections.

    We should go to the MFA together!

  637. I am wondering if there might be a backlash to the overuse of social media (excluding blogs, of course)and maybe the popularity of postcards could resurface (much like formal stationery and wind-up watches).

    You are one of the people I thought of first when I wrote about who sends out postcards! AND you often create your own postcards!

    Thanks so much for your kind comments!

  638. Hi Audrey,
    It was indeed such an interesting evening! I am glad you enjoyed the post about it–much fun to do!

  639. Dear Readers,
    Audrey, who went with me to the lecture about the postcard exhibition and wrote the comment above, is a photographer. I recommend a visit to her site, http://www.audrey-gottlieb.com, to see some of her work when she was a UN photography and, later, as a freelance photographer. She is currently working on a book about the latest wave of immigrants to make Queens (in New York City) their home.

  640. Hello faithful follower,

    I know you love interesting and lovely postcards because, if you are who I think you are, I have been the beneficiary of your love of postcards for many years!

    Thanks for your comment and for being a faithful follower!

  641. Oh,Cloe, what fun that must have been. your comment made me think about how a box of postcards differs from a box of photos. I love old photos, too, but postcards offer the image as well as one's thoughts (or at least a salutation) in the sender's handwriting. Such a personal connection.

    Thanks for your evocative note!

  642. You are right, Henry. Stores may come and go but the layout of the small villages remains basically the same and often the restaurants remain the same for years and years. When I saw the postcards of Lourmarin, I could see the same village streets winding and intersecting, but more filled in and spruced up!

    Thanks for your observation!

  643. Hi David,
    I had never thought about the history of postcards either which is why, in part at least, I found the curator's talk so interesting. I was fascinated by critics at the time who predicted the demise of formal communication…maybe email and texting won't be the downfall of the written word!

    Still, it feels good to slow down, spend some time picking out just the right postcards and writing a few lines (in complete sentences!) to a friend at home.

    The slide shows took a little technical wizardry (on the part of Towny) but they allowed us to show more images. They were difficult to narrow down. Glad you liked them!

    Thank you for your thoughtful note!

  644. Hi Brian,
    Thanks so very much–those are beautiful bridges. I suppose I must confess my ignorance here–I am not entirely sure what defines a transporter bridge…maybe you could enlighten me (and others)!

    I can't believe you found postcards of so many!

    So good to hear from you!

  645. Hi Henry,
    Merci for your note! I definitely encourage you to get down to the MFA to see the exhibition! As a French teacher, I know you would enjoy seeing so many images of France–much history there!

  646. Susan,

    Your choice of material for your blog is always designed to be of interest to many. Your selection of postcards shows how they change with the times.

    At one time, I was saving all my postcards, beginning in childhood. Somehow the collection grew and grew until it was time to thin it out. How I wish I had had the room to save them all.

    I guess I'll have to enjoy the fine collection you have posted and be thankful to those who do have room to save things!

    So, here's a tip for future generations: Don't always listen to your mother when she says, "Clean out your drawers and throw out that junk!"

    MMN

  647. My vote is for Madame Riva! ( if only I had a vote!)
    Ciao!
    Jane

  648. From the clips they played on the Oscars, this does look like it could be a difficult film, but even from those brief one can see how well done it is. I am glad it won best foreign film, but cannot comment on best actress because I have only see one of the films nominated! (How pathetic am I??) ~ David

  649. Je suis triste. I wish I'd had the courage to brave the blizzard and drive the 10 miles to Portsmouth to be with you. What a wonderful afternoon you all appear to have had. Edith Piaf sang "Je ne regrette rien". I am singing "Je regrette que je n'etais pas chez vous". Bravissimi Janine et Ray!

  650. My first exposure to Edith Piaf was on my first visit to Paris, under atmospheric December skies. I had never before heard her name. We were riding on the R.E.R., the underground section along the Seine. A short woman, who could not fail to catch our eyes because of the leopard coat, bad dye job, and matching scarlet beret and lipstick she wore, began singing Edith Piaf. She was moderately good, in a grotesque way, and passed her hat. It was hard to suppress giggles, which drew an ineffective evil eye.

    My second encounter was on a fine evening a few years later. By now I knew who Edith Piaf was, and knew and appreciated her music. We were sipping wine on a rooftop terrace near Rue Mouffetard, looking across the chimneys and steeples to the dome of the Pantheon, under the opalescent sky of a fine May evening. I remarked that the only thing that could possibly make the picture more complete would be Edith Piaff music. Not two seconds later, a man on a balcony several stories below began playing "Ma vie en rose" on his accordion. The timing was so perfect we both had to laugh, this time with delight. – MJS

  651. Denise Rheault March 3, 2013 at 10:01 pm

    This article brings back memories. My high school french teacher (a WWII vet) told us all about Edith Piaf and we were subjected to many sessions in which we were force feed Edith's music via scratchy 78 records, Ha! Quite a change from the music genre I grew up with…Hard and acid Rock. I still remember all her songs and ran right out to see "La Vie en Rose" when it was first released. ;0)

  652. We missed you and your voice would undoubtedly have contributed positively to the chorus! We will do it again!

  653. Hi Denise,
    It sounds like your French teacher's efforts made quite an impression….it would be fun if your teacher knew that Piaf's music stayed a part of your life! Thanks so much for your note!

  654. The draw of Edith Piaf is hard to resist…regardless of venue or the source of her music. It can define the mood, can't it? I love your stories! Thanks so much for sharing.

  655. Susan,

    Merci! This is a really fun read: Piaf and 'Amour' (which I plan on seeing this afternoon at the Music Hall!)

    It just so happens that Ray, Janine and I were in a Meet-Up French group yeesterday at Panera's in Dover and Janine and I did a verse of 'Je ne regrette rien' together: Fun! (She sings much better than I).

    We should have a big 'Boum Piaf' in the fall, in Oct., to commemorate the 50th year of her passing and to celebrate her classic life: Piaf stories, wine, food, song (especially with Janine and Ray), etc.

    Merci encore!

    A bientot,
    Henry

  656. Hi Henry,

    Thank you for your fun note. I LOVE the Piaf Party idea, too–I think women should wear little black dresses!

    I hope you liked "Amour." I found it very moving and, as you know, I tought the acting was as good as it gets.

    Forgive me–I know you are a French professor–for not being able to get the accents in your comment!

    All the best,
    Susan

  657. How fun to have such a gathering in your home on a snowy evening!

    I was with Mark for both those memories – and was truly charmed by both. The woman on the RER seemed a little unbalanced, probably much like Piaf herself… but she was very good.

    The accordion moment is truly one of those iconic moments that one can never forget… I love hearing La vie en rose anytime, anywhere…

    Thanks for this post – I never knew much about her life – only that it was sad. This really helped me to put the pieces together.

    David

  658. Where can I find these wines? I’m in New York , a liitle less challenging than NH! Great article. Gotta love rosés!

    • Hi there! You are in the best place in the U.S. to find these wonderful imports. I would suggest going into your favorite wine shop and asking them…if they don’t have the one you are looking for, I’m confident they will help you find it.

      Happy rose wine hunting!

    • Another place to start is the Retailers page of the Wines of Provence U.S. website: http://www.provencewineusa.com/retailers.cfm (It’s not comprehensive, but it’s a starting place!)

    • Dear Readers,

      I just got the following information about Pigoudet roses from Patrick Burke who is the French Portfolio Director for T. Edward Wines in New York City:

      Below are the NYC wine shops that carry Roses from Pigoudet.

      Uncorked
      Spirits of Carmine
      Mei Chi Na Liquors
      Chelsea Wine Country
      Wine Hut
      Bowery & Vine
      Brix Wine Shop
      The Grape D’vine

      I would head to the nearest wine shop and get a bottle for tonight!

      Amitiés,
      Susan

  659. Where can I find these wines? I'm in New York , a liitle less challenging than NH! Great article. Gotta love rosés!

  660. Hi there! You are in the best place in the U.S. to find these wonderful imports. I would suggest going into your favorite wine shop and asking them…if they don't have the one you are looking for, I'm confident they will help you find it.

    Happy rose wine hunting!

  661. Wow – what an amazing tasting experience! I hope that I will be able to find at least ONE of these wines in Tucson. I must admit I will buy any wine for its label or bottle shape, and here you have found quite a few that turned my head! Also, I really hope that I can to Brasserie Cognac while I am in NYC on business. Thanks for an interesting and beautiful post! Very pretty in pink! ~ David

  662. Wow – what an amazing tasting experience! I hope that I will be able to find at least ONE of these wines in Tucson. I must admit I will buy any wine for its label or bottle shape, and here you have found quite a few that turned my head! Also, I really hope that I can to Brasserie Cognac while I am in NYC on business. Thanks for an interesting and beautiful post! Very pretty in pink! ~ David

  663. I won’t be inProvence any time soon but I am going to be looking for some good Provence rose wines starting right now!

  664. I won't be inProvence any time soon but I am going to be looking for some good Provence rose wines starting right now!

  665. Mention should perhaps also be made of music at the château, which for me would be the main attraction. Under way right now and through May is a series of concerts, Les Quatuors à Cordes, and other musical events are scheduled throughout the year, organized in partnership with the nearby Abbey of Silvacane, one of the magnifique Three Sisters of Provence. Brian.

  666. Salut! Like Brian, I think the music would appeal to us a lot! The Renaissance Fair sounds like fun, too, and we can only imagine it would be more fun and more authentic that its American counterparts! Besides, everything would sound better in French! Comment dites-on wench en francais? ~ David

  667. Dear Brian,
    You are so right! There are concerts on the schedule right now and the typical season runs well into the fall. Readers can visit http://www.chateau-de-lourmarin.com to see the current program. I can confirm that hearing a little Mozart in the grand chamber of the chateau is magical!

    There is also usually some jazz in the chateau during the summer. And while on the subject of music in Lourmarin, the nearby Temple de Lourmarin (the Protestant church), also hosts many musical events. It is one of the venues for the fantastic Festival International de Piano in La Roque d'Antheron (a neighboring village). Readers can visit http://www.festival-piano.com to learn more about this program (July 20 – August 18, 2013).

    Thank you for bringing this subject to our attention! I think you would very much enjoy some early music in the chateau!

  668. Coucou David!

    "Wench" in French? I am afraid to hazard a guess! But, thinking about how a Renaissance Festival in France would differ from one in the States is really interesting. I know, from our conversations with Caroline Galina at the chateau, that this festival is a lot less commercial than those I have seen in the States. It sounds like the focus is (really) on the activities one might have experienced around 600 years ago.

    And re the music, will we ever forget the concert we attended in the nearby Protestant Church?!

  669. Another place to start is the Retailers page of the Wines of Provence U.S. website: http://www.provencewineusa.com/retailers.cfm (It's not comprehensive, but it's a starting place!)

  670. A brief history of the château would not be complete without mention of the role of Raoul Dautry. I will encourage his granddaughter, Françoise Kinzel, to share a bit of info with you. Françoise connaît bien le château.Thanks for this interesting post!!!

  671. You know, I never think of this when traveling. But Mark was nearly pickpocketed in Rome last time we were there. And I never knew you had TWO cars stolen whitened there! Ouch! ~ David

  672. Dear Readers,

    I just got the following information about Pigoudet roses from Patrick Burke who is the French Portfolio Director for T. Edward Wines in New York City:

    Below are the NYC wine shops that carry Roses from Pigoudet.

    Uncorked
    Spirits of Carmine
    Mei Chi Na Liquors
    Chelsea Wine Country
    Wine Hut
    Bowery & Vine
    Brix Wine Shop
    The Grape D'vine

    I would head to the nearest wine shop and get a bottle for tonight!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  673. Hi David,
    I would definitely encourage you to put Brasserie Cognac on your list of restaurants to try! I wish I could join you!
    Amitiés,
    Susan

  674. Have fun with that! Let me know what your favorites are!

  675. It can happen anywhere, can't it? I hope readers understand that if precautions are taken, these things are much less likely to happen. (but can never be prevented entirely).

    I feel completely safe in Lourmarin–I would walk home alone after midnight there before I would walk home alone at midnight in my own wonderful town. I wouldn't leave valuables in my car there–and I wouldn't do so in my own driveway here in Portsmouth, New Hampshire!

    Still, I return every year to Lourmarin!

    Amitiés,
    Susan

  676. It was indeed a wonderful tasting!

    Spring is around the corner and the 2012 Roses will soon hit the shelves. Although Mas de Cadenet ‘Arbaude’ Rose is poured in restaurants in New York, Amabassador Wines and Spirits features it every year.

    Sante!

  677. It was indeed a wonderful tasting!

    Spring is around the corner and the 2012 Roses will soon hit the shelves. Although Mas de Cadenet 'Arbaude' Rose is poured in restaurants in New York, Amabassador Wines and Spirits features it every year.

    Sante!

  678. UNBELIEVEABLE that crime can reach it's ugly tenacles into the most beautiful places on earth,including Provence. No matter where you live you are not completely safe anymore, so be alert. Thanks for a well written article and a warning to keep our heads up.

    In the meantime, let's continue to enjoy each day and embrace the warm sunshine because a new day will always bring new hope.

  679. Hello
    I've been living here for 28years now,will not comment on your article as there is so much more than just car thief going on in this area, what I would like to make a small comment on is the Spelling , please remember there is not "é"
    Luberon not Lubéron,

  680. What a lovely approach to the world!

  681. Thank you very much for your comment. Regarding the accent/no accent, I greatly appreciate this feedback. I was initially introduced to, shall we say, "this area," spelled with an accent. I never thought to investigate which spelling is correct because is pronounced as if there were an accent aigu on the 'e'. Your comment prompted me to do a quick search which revealed some very interesting information–so interesting that I may write a post on the subject!. It seems that both spellings are used, but that "Luberon" is the original spelling. So, thank you again for this helpful feedback. I will henceforth eliminate the accent.

    As for car thefts in the Luberon, you are also correct: There IS so much more going on in this area. I have written about much that goes on in this beautiful area and welcome any other ideas/events that may be of interest to readers. Please send information about such topics/events to me.

    Finally, how lucky to live in such a lovely area for so many years!

  682. St Rémy is my very favorite market! I stayed in St Rémy two years ago and can't wait to return! ( I would have stayed in the Bonbonniere again but it was full).
    Ciao!
    Amanda P.

  683. The pictures are the best I've seen !!The photogragher did a superb job !! Of course the article is interesting, but this time we need to acknowledge the superb photography !!

  684. The article and photos are wonderful, and the market so colorful. Today I will go to market in Panama – I hope it is as half as pretty. Thank you Susan!

  685. Hi Centime,
    Thanks for the nice feedback! What are the markets like in Panama?

  686. I will pass those nice comments on to the photographer, who is Towny!Merci!

  687. Hi Amanda,
    Oh, I am sorry that La Bonbonniere was full–please try again next time. We have more apartments and houses on our website now, too:www.RentOurHomeInProvence.com.

    Thanks for your note! Good to hear from you.

  688. Good to know. I will be in NYC soon and will look for it! Thanks for the scoop!

  689. I remember stopping at le Pont Julien with you, Towny and Alex on our first full day in Provence. Bridges like this have always fascinated me and their design is so intriguing! I love your idea of a Pont-side picnic! ~ David

  690. ETERNAL BEAUTY

    The story about the Roman ruins in Provence is by far the most interesting piece yet.

    It's amazing that 2000 year old ruins are so incredibly beautiful.Time and turmoil have only added to their beauty. God must have a special place in his heart for them and plans to make them last for eternity.

  691. Good evening from Le Moulin de Lourmarin!

    Please be advised that we now have a new chef who started in February 2013.

    Her name is Nadège SERRET and she will be glad to welcome you with her team on our terrace or in the vaulted dining room with its rustic flagstones which calls to mind the authentic, agricultural past of the Luberon and to make you discover her carte and menus based on seasonal local products…

    We all hope to see you soon!

  692. We were in Lourmarin this time last year and the poppies were spectacular. The one time I was in Provence for lavender season it was beautiful, but unbearably hot. I'll take spring with the irises, climbing roses, and red poppies any day! Thanks for this lovely reminder of our trip.

  693. Excellent Post.
    Thanks for sharing the nice images. I like it very much.
    Best Rose Wines
    Thanks

  694. Like Tuscany, the poppies are abundant and such a wonderful harbinger to all the good that is coming at this time of year.

    Do you remember the day we ALMOST saw the lavender? It was just the other side of Bonnieux, and we glimpsed the last unharvested field as we sped by, no doubt on our way to the market. We promised ourselves to return on the same route so that we could get out and sniff (and, of course, photograph!) – but, as we returned, we arrived just in time to find the farmer had just finished harvesting the field. Sigh. We ALMOST saw a field of lavender…

  695. Okay, now I need to book an even longer holiday–from May through July? Alright, I'm going to get there again some day! In the mean time, can't you write about some place like Bakersfield so I am not always dreaming?!

  696. What an interesting post, great detail! Thanks so much for this.

    Kathy

  697. What an interesting post, great detail! Thanks so much for this.

    Kathy

  698. Fabulous! Were the Vaudois considered non-Catholic even before the Protestant Reformation began (Luther’s 95 theses were posted in 1517)? Surely the villages weren’t separated into Protestant and Catholic before that date? Or were there Vaudois villages and Catholic villages?
    Thank you so much for all of this. Sounds and looks like a wonderful village to find. -Catherine

  699. Fabulous! Were the Vaudois considered non-Catholic even before the Protestant Reformation began (Luther's 95 theses were posted in 1517)? Surely the villages weren't separated into Protestant and Catholic before that date? Or were there Vaudois villages and Catholic villages?
    Thank you so much for all of this. Sounds and looks like a wonderful village to find. -Catherine

  700. This was really interesting – and I think I would love to visit Cabrières d’Aigues. SO sad that we were close so many times and didn’t see it! The olive oil mill is identical the ones I saw in Morocco – and the presses, too. Thanks for another great post!

  701. This was really interesting – and I think I would love to visit Cabrières d'Aigues. SO sad that we were close so many times and didn't see it! The olive oil mill is identical the ones I saw in Morocco – and the presses, too. Thanks for another great post!

  702. george archer May 6, 2013 at 12:07 pm

    As usual your posts introduce us to something different yet typical of this wonderful part of France, itself a wonderful part of the world.Having visited only a small part of the general area of Provence, I learn something new each time I read The Modern Troubadours. Your love of the region, and respect for its customs, traditions and the rhythm of daily life shies through. It wets my appetite to return and discover ore and I thank you for it

  703. george archer May 6, 2013 at 4:07 pm

    As usual your posts introduce us to something different yet typical of this wonderful part of France, itself a wonderful part of the world.Having visited only a small part of the general area of Provence, I learn something new each time I read The Modern Troubadours. Your love of the region, and respect for its customs, traditions and the rhythm of daily life shies through. It wets my appetite to return and discover ore and I thank you for it

  704. Susan,
    Another beautifully written story from your personal files. You are so fortunate to be connected with such interesting people.

    Thanks for sharing them with us. Well done.!!

  705. Susan,
    Another beautifully written story from your personal files. You are so fortunate to be connected with such interesting people.

    Thanks for sharing them with us. Well done.!!

  706. I don't think I'll ever see the fields of lavender in bloom. My husband and I always travel either in the spring or fall for nicer weather. I may get a chance to see the poppies though. I've enjoyed spending times reading your delightful posts and it is always nice to meet another blogger from New Hampshire.

  707. Remind us to get a bottle when we are there! (That is, if it isn’t sold out by Thursday!) This was really fun to read – love the history of the owners, and the photos are beautiful! ~ David

    • Thank you so much for the story of Chateau Miraval…My sister recently secured three bottles of the Rose for me and we are currently planning the menu with which it will be served…can’t wait ;0)

      Denise Rheault

  708. Remind us to get a bottle when we are there! (That is, if it isn't sold out by Thursday!) This was really fun to read – love the history of the owners, and the photos are beautiful! ~ David

  709. Violets. That was the aroma upon my first sip of the Viognier Vaudois. Often the “nose” disappears as I continue to imbibe. But not with this wine. Every sip was accompanied by a gentle and exquisitely floral note of violets. It is sad that the fragrant violet is rare these days, but you need to trust me – this wine has it! It is light, floral, overtones of pear and honey – maybe even chevrefeuille – and the more I sipped, the more this wine has become my favorite French white. It was great with scallops, and I can see it with lobster, chicken, pintade, pork, duck – almost anything. It has a sweetness consistent with most viognier wines, but not at all cloying or heavy. I am so sad that this wine isn’t available in the U.S. Do I really need to go to Vaudois next week to get a case? Violets…

  710. Violets. That was the aroma upon my first sip of the Viognier Vaudois. Often the "nose" disappears as I continue to imbibe. But not with this wine. Every sip was accompanied by a gentle and exquisitely floral note of violets. It is sad that the fragrant violet is rare these days, but you need to trust me – this wine has it! It is light, floral, overtones of pear and honey – maybe even chevrefeuille – and the more I sipped, the more this wine has become my favorite French white. It was great with scallops, and I can see it with lobster, chicken, pintade, pork, duck – almost anything. It has a sweetness consistent with most viognier wines, but not at all cloying or heavy. I am so sad that this wine isn't available in the U.S. Do I really need to go to Vaudois next week to get a case? Violets…

  711. Memories memories memories, how I loved this Susan, it was a joy to read all about Lormarin and it's surrounding districts, but then your wonderful recollections of your childhood holidays to Mexico, just delightful, thanks again, Paulx

  712. We traveled to Provence with our two sons when they were about 9 and 12. We rented a gite in Lourmarin and did many of the activities you suggested. It was a very mixed experience for our family. We had to cultivate lots of patience and an appreciation for the fact that the things that are thrilling to parents (seeing a charming village or looking at a stunning view) are often of little or no interest to kids.

    The personality of your child will be a big determining factor. Our oldest was, at that age, very shy and hesitant. We rented bikes for the week so that the kids could explore the village on their own. The youngest was game, but the oldest dragged his feet. We pulled our hair out — it seemed like such a treat to have a bicycle to explore an old French village with money in your pocket for ice cream!!

    Now it is a good family story and we can all laugh about it. My oldest has since been a Senate intern in D.C., taught English briefly in China, and got a Masters degree in London. He's on vacation in South Africa at the moment. So, parents need to realize that their child's behavior or preferences are largely about a moment in time. The only solution? Guide, but keep a perspective and go with the flow!!

  713. Wonderful writings Susan.

    I believe one of the best mothering decisions I ever made was to take my son to France when he was about five. The inspiration came entirely from your daughter.

    I clearly remember visiting you shortly after one of your early trips to France. I had asked your very young daughter if she enjoyed the trip. She simply burst with enthusiasm, for at least a half an hour if not a full one, telling me about Monet and other artists she had learned about, and about the language, the food… I was simply blown away by her brilliance and excitement. I decided on the spot to take my five year old son to Europe.

    Today my son, now 20, is studying International Relations at McGill University. Earlier he was invited to be an "American Ambassador" for the peacemaking group "Seeds of Peace" and has worked with Arab, Christian and Jewish students in conflict zones. He loves to explore different cultures and dreams of someday working in the State Department. His early travel experiences were life changing, and for that I will always be grateful to you and your lovely daughter. Merci Beaucoup, Susan!

  714. Ah, to have been in your families when I was young. It would have been great to have the adventures you both had, although our languorous summers lakeside in Vermont had their appeal and still bring back wonderful memories.

    I think the one thing a family could take away from this post is the world of possibilities they might never before have imagined. Instead of thinking "outside the box" they can think "off the beaten path." What fun everyone would have exploring someplace new. And I love your idea of the kids doing a blog for their friends. A terrific way to hone their writing skills while sharing stories.

    And many, many thanks for NOT sharing the picnic photo from le Forêt de Cèdres! 🙂

  715. If I may, I'd like to add a footnote to Susan's delightfull story of her family vacations. I'll call it "What does it take to scare a big brave man?"

    We had just arrived in our motel room. We were on the second floor with a large open balcony overlooking the assigned parking spots below.

    We looked up and there climbing down the a gigant TARANTULA !!, We all screamed for Daddy to get it down. He turned pale and said he'd call the desk. Within mimutes an employee arrived with a broom. He was laughing and mumbling in Spanish. With one big swipe of broom, he swept the large tarantula off the wall and over the balcony and onto the cars below and ours directly in line !!
    In the morning we were scared to death to check the car. The next leg of the trip was in complete silence. We never knew when we'd get the next leg, black and hairy going up our leg !We were ever fearful that he was lurking among the luggage.
    I am still wondering if he ever got away or just hitched another ride to California.
    We were all relieved when we got a new car !!

  716. hi, which restaurant in Interlaken did you enjoyed Raclette?

    Do share.

    la.

  717. Love your informative posts!

  718. They're even better eaten in the Charante with a splash of Pineau des Charante. Or as a first course with Kalamata olives or ginger jam.

  719. I don't think I have ever had a Cavaillon melon–I have only traveled to Provence in the early spring–but I have just purchased the lotions you refer to and also really like them. I too was skeptical and have to say that the South of France angle sold me. Interesting to know tha history of this magical melon. Merci!

  720. Following up on Ginny's comment, you could have entitled this post, "The Magic Melon." It seems everyone attributes a little magic to it!

  721. Susan – unlike you, I grew up loving cantaloups. We got them fresh from the farmer's market every summer. Once away from home, I was shocked – truly shocked – to find out how bad the ones from the supermarket were. But, even the best of the farmer's market melons don't light a candle to the Mélons de Cavaillon. I was happy to hear one of our farmers here in Tucson saying that he was growing those "provincial" melons – "You know," he said, "the ribbed ones from France" Fingers crossed… ~ David

  722. My father was forever frustrated by the brevity of the Berkshire summers — one year only July was frost-free — that prevented him from bringing cantaloupe to the luscious ripeness he remembered from his Ohio boyhood. Certainly the sweetest I've ever had were from Cavallion, though closely followed by those grown here in the Sonoran desert (not entirely surprising, given melon's origins in the Kalahari).

  723. Bonjour,
    Thank you again for a lovely article about the wines of you region. I’m curious to know if you have had a chance to try the Miraval blush from Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s Vineyard in Provence? My incredible sister was able to secure three bottles of the 2013 vintage for me. I have read that it scored a whopping 90 points when put through it’s paces. It’s chilling nicely as I write this ready for our next dinner party. ♥
    Denise Rheault

    • Hi Denise,

      I have indeed tried the Miraval rosé and loved it! I wrote a post about it in May–I hope you will check it out!

      I hope you enjoyed it with your dinner!

  724. Bonjour,
    Thank you again for a lovely article about the wines of you region. I'm curious to know if you have had a chance to try the Miraval blush from Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie's Vineyard in Provence? My incredible sister was able to secure three bottles of the 2013 vintage for me. I have read that it scored a whopping 90 points when put through it's paces. It's chilling nicely as I write this ready for our next dinner party. ♥
    Denise Rheault

  725. Can’t wait to go to my local wineries and look for Gascone wines here in Malta. Will let you know if I have any success. Also, I have just discovered those exquisite melons you described in last last week’s blog! They ARE being imported here, and I know exactly what you mean about preferring to eat them privately in the kitchen! : )

    • Cloe,
      Have you had any success? I am very curious if you can find the melons in Malta.

      Glad you can get the melons! Good do know that I would have some sympatico company in the kitchen!

    • No luck yet on the Gascone wines (but I haven’t revved up into serious ‘research mode’ yet), and the Cavaillon melons seem to be available only with the ‘better’, more up- market, green grocers. Locally produced melons are now in abundance, so anything else is difficult-to-impossible to find! But I love little ‘detective projects’ such as these, so will keep you posted.

    • Cloe,
      It is so fun to have you as a reader! Let me know if you find either–in fact, I think they might go well together!

      Readers might be interested to know that Cloe is the proprietress of “Goddess Tours to Malta” (http://www.goddesstourstomalta.com/cloe.html) and, as such, plans tours of Malta and Gozo. I have always wanted to take one of her tours!

      Thanks again for your comment, Cloe, and keep us posted!

  726. Can't wait to go to my local wineries and look for Gascone wines here in Malta. Will let you know if I have any success. Also, I have just discovered those exquisite melons you described in last last week's blog! They ARE being imported here, and I know exactly what you mean about preferring to eat them privately in the kitchen! : )

  727. Susan – this was so much fun, and I really look forward to presenting both my and your readers with the terrine soon! (It has to cool off in Tucson first!) If I can get it to look as nice on the inside as I did on the outside, I will be very happy! I really love the names of all the grapes and appellations. Oh, and the Pacherenc du Vic Bilh? Phenomenal… Thanks fro including Mark and me on this adventure. I loved the cooking and he loved eating and drinking everything we brought out! Bisous! ~ David

  728. Susan – this was so much fun, and I really look forward to presenting both my and your readers with the terrine soon! (It has to cool off in Tucson first!) If I can get it to look as nice on the inside as I did on the outside, I will be very happy! I really love the names of all the grapes and appellations. Oh, and the Pacherenc du Vic Bilh? Phenomenal… Thanks fro including Mark and me on this adventure. I loved the cooking and he loved eating and drinking everything we brought out! Bisous! ~ David

  729. Hi Denise,

    I have indeed tried the Miraval rosé and loved it! I wrote a post about it in May–I hope you will check it out!

    I hope you enjoyed it with your dinner!

  730. Cloe,
    Have you had any success? I am very curious if you can find the melons in Malta.

    Glad you can get the melons! Good do know that I would have some sympatico company in the kitchen!

  731. We are all salivating as we wait for the terrine! It was terrific as was the entire dinner. In the meantime, I hope your readers will try the strawberry dessert, which was simply elegant!

    The wines from Gascony, Pacherenc du Vic Bilh,and Cahors, (and our Châteauneuf du Pape wine!) were wonderful, weren’t they?!

  732. We are all salivating as we wait for the terrine! It was terrific as was the entire dinner. In the meantime, I hope your readers will try the strawberry dessert, which was simply elegant!

    The wines from Gascony, Pacherenc du Vic Bilh,and Cahors, (and our Châteauneuf du Pape wine!) were wonderful, weren't they?!

  733. Loved the video!! When you go for your spin, can I come?

  734. Olá Susan! Adoro carros antigos e esse post me fez ter saudade do passado, mesmo sem ter conhecido esses carros. Já vou acessar sua página no facebook. Boa sorte! Um abraço, Léia

  735. What a fun article! I had friends in the 70s who had one in my home town. I would occasionally get in it and go someplace with one of them to run errands. It was fun – loved having people stare at you – but the comfort level made me want shorter errands! I think you are wise to rent before committing… we get so used to our comfortable vehicles these days! ~ David

  736. Is it possible that I’m the only reader of your blog who’s actually owned a deux chevaux?
    Mine was the van version – the entire exterior except the doors and the fenders were corrugated, which managed to make the car look as if it were made of corrugated iron. I owned it from 1960 to 1963 while still living in England. It was classified as a commercial vehicle, which made the registration fees much cheaper, but at that time in the UK commercial vehicles were limited to 50 mph. Nevertheless I was once given a speeding ticket for exceeding 50 mph and my pleas to the traffic cops that the vehicle wouldn’t go faster that 50 mph fell on deaf ears. I’m very skeptical of the claim that it could be driven across a plowed field without breaking eggs on the seat – to achieve that it would have to have driven at snail’s pace. One of the cars most endearing quirks, given the extreme range in the suspension, was that if one went over a bump at a good speed one would be catapulted up out of the seat (in the days before seat belts) and hit one’s head on the roof. Another less endearing characteristic was that it was not possible to change down from second gear to first gear while the car was moving, and so while climbing a steep hill and not making it in second gear one had to stop, and start again in first. One tended to get rather flustered, especially if the road was narrow and a queue of hooting, flashing vehicles piled up behind one.
    My deux chevaux let me down only twice. On the first occasion I was driving my friend early one Saturday morning to meet her sister flying in to Heathrow from Philadelphia. The seats took the form of a hammock, slung on a metal frame, and half way to the airport my seat suddenly gave way and, since we were very pushed for time, I drove the rest of the way to the airport through London traffic while sitting on the floor. Switching the seats turned out to be fairly simple, and so on the way back it was my passengers who had to sit on the floor.
    On the other occasion I was taking my parents, who were moving, to view houses in the extreme southwest. In the depths of the countryside I stopped at a village gas station to fill up, but then the car wouldn’t start. And so we pushed it in to the garage to investigate. It seemed as if half the village came along to investigate, including the village idiot who made the immortal pronouncement “Ah – I can see what’s wrong with that – the wheels don’t go round!” Repairs on the spot were obviously impossible and so the car was left there. Faced with the prospect of continuing the journey we reasoned that if we could get a bus to the nearest city (Salisbury) we could go on by train. We inquired about a bus to Salisbury and were told that there were two buses a week, that there was a bus that day, but that it had passed through a few minutes earlier. This discussion was very laid back, unhurried, you should understand. However the garage proprietor took one of his cars and we embarked on a desperate and exciting race to catch up with the bus, which we did, thankfully, a few villages further on.
    So I still think that the greatest car in the world is the Citroën (before the merger with Peugeot). I subsequently, in the States, owned a Safari wagon, the most exciting car to drive. Think also of those French gangster movies of the forties and fifties, usually starring Jean Gabin, with the even more famous “Flying Fifteen.” Sorry to go on at such length, but this week’s blog really struck a chord, bringing back the fondest of memories.
    Brian

  737. No luck yet on the Gascone wines (but I haven't revved up into serious 'research mode' yet), and the Cavaillon melons seem to be available only with the 'better', more up- market, green grocers. Locally produced melons are now in abundance, so anything else is difficult-to-impossible to find! But I love little 'detective projects' such as these, so will keep you posted.

  738. Informative post! Thank you for writing it.

  739. Informative post! Thank you for writing it.

  740. Mary Norcross June 16, 2013 at 1:10 pm

    Hi Susan,

    I am visiting my sister, Germaine, in Paris. We will look for the wine.
    Most likely will not be in Provence. great article!

  741. Mary Norcross June 16, 2013 at 5:10 pm

    Hi Susan,

    I am visiting my sister, Germaine, in Paris. We will look for the wine.
    Most likely will not be in Provence. great article!

  742. Thanks Kirsten–It's always fun to do this kind of research!

  743. Hi Mary and Germaine,
    What are you two up to in Paris? Cooking classes? So good to hear from you. Let's plan a rendezvous when you return!

  744. Susan – for starters, I am always impressed with the amount of research you do for your posts! Amazing! And this one was really fascinating, especially as I have so often heard of the Knights Templar but really knew nothing about them. And the wine sounds really good – as usual, I fear they won’t be found in Tucson! ~ David

  745. Susan – for starters, I am always impressed with the amount of research you do for your posts! Amazing! And this one was really fascinating, especially as I have so often heard of the Knights Templar but really knew nothing about them. And the wine sounds really good – as usual, I fear they won't be found in Tucson! ~ David

  746. Hi David,
    This was a fun post, especially the research part! I sent a note off to the distributor to see if we can find out if there is a Tucson source. Will let you know! Thanks, as always, for your note!

  747. Hi David,
    This was a fun post, especially the research part! I sent a note off to the distributor to see if we can find out if there is a Tucson source. Will let you know! Thanks, as always, for your note!

  748. Mais oui! In Provence?!

    Good to hear from you, Linda!

  749. Maybe I am of two minds on the subject of cars…you know that we have two cars, one of which is very comfortable even luxurious and another that is devoid of any creature comforts but a hoot to drive. An alter ego? Hmmmm….

  750. Brian,
    This is quite possibly the FUNNIEST comment I have ever had the pleasure of receiving! Thank you so much for the laughs (and interesting information)!

  751. Cloe,
    It is so fun to have you as a reader! Let me know if you find either–in fact, I think they might go well together!

    Readers might be interested to know that Cloe is the proprietress of "Goddess Tours to Malta" (http://www.goddesstourstomalta.com/cloe.html) and, as such, plans tours of Malta and Gozo. I have always wanted to take one of her tours!

    Thanks again for your comment, Cloe, and keep us posted!

  752. I am intrigued by the Kalamata olives! Will try that next time I have a Cavaillon melon! Ginger jam sounds divine as does the Pineau des Charante. I would love to try them in the Charante!

    Thanks for the suggestions!

  753. They are nice lotions, aren't they? The allure of the melon certainly adds to the appeal of the lotion!

  754. So, have the French melons arrived in the market yet? Do let us know!

    To learn that all melons are not created equal must have been as disappointing as learning who the tooth fairy is! But, like peaches and tomatoes, we keep looking, right?

  755. I love hearing about the origin of certain foods. I imagine that the melon has a long interesting history. I also love to hear of people's early experiences with food and how they shape our preferences and expectations. Thanks so much for sharing. Your father would have liked the Cavallion melons, eh?

  756. Indeed, this is a wonderful post. Very informative. I’m working on a series of novels set in the Age of Chivalry, three of which belong to the sub-series “Tales from the Languedoc,” and three to “The Templar Tales.” You might, therefore, be interested in my website: http://www.tales-of-chivalry.com. I hope you’ll check it out!

    • Hi Helena,
      I thought I would take a quick peak at your website–and then return later–but it was so compelling, I ended up spending much more time on that site and others, reading about chivalry as well as many other interesting topics. I will return. Thanks for dropping by my blog!

  757. Indeed, this is a wonderful post. Very informative. I'm working on a series of novels set in the Age of Chivalry, three of which belong to the sub-series "Tales from the Languedoc," and three to "The Templar Tales." You might, therefore, be interested in my website: . I hope you'll check it out!

  758. a price per pair?

  759. 4 for 24 euros–when I was at the market last August! They are terrific!

  760. Hi Helena,
    I thought I would take a quick peak at your website–and then return later–but it was so compelling, I ended up spending much more time on that site and others, reading about chivalry as well as many other interesting topics. I will return. Thanks for dropping by my blog!

  761. Glad you enjoyed it, Susan! Looks like we have much in common, and we’ll just have to stay in touch virtually. Meanwhile, have a good weekend.
    Helena

  762. Glad you enjoyed it, Susan! Looks like we have much in common, and we'll just have to stay in touch virtually. Meanwhile, have a good weekend.
    Helena

  763. Quelle stresse! As I prepare to go to my Sunday market, these photos and this essay make me wish it opened an hour earlier! I loved the market in Cucuron – not just for the cheese guy, but for the incredible ambiance provided by the pool and plane trees. Just so beautiful. I have to say that I would love to see the Gordes market so I could check out the linens and other locally made items… And, oddly, sometimes my favorite section can be the traveling hardware store! I am glad your stress is over for the day… What about next week? ~ David

  764. How fondly I remember the Cucuron market from several summers ago. The dappled shade, the dark still water, the vibrant produce, glistening jars of preserves, the quiet babble from the cafes are indelibly etched in my memory. Most astonishing was the immense Mediterranean paella, as large and improbably beautiful as a stained glass window. – Mark

  765. Travel writers seem to focus so much on Isle-sur-la-sorgue and Aix-en-Provence markets that these smaller markets are overlooked. But markets like Tours d'Aigue and Cucuron are two of the best, I think. Thanks for a nice post.

  766. I have been following your blog since we decided to take a family trip to Provence this coming September. We are staying in a home in the neigboring village of Puyvert. Your blog on Tuesday markets is fantastic – markets are very high on our list, not just for the shopping but more for experiencing Provence. My wife and I are retiring in a few years, and we might also be looking for a small place to spend extended time in Provence. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. – Bill

  767. Thank you so much for the story of Chateau Miraval…My sister recently secured three bottles of the Rose for me and we are currently planning the menu with which it will be served…can't wait ;0)

    Denise Rheault

  768. Susan, these verrines look absolutely wonderful, and so simple, too! As I most often say, the simplest things are often the most elegant! Wishing you and Towny a Joyeux Le Quatorze Juillet! ~ David

    P.S. – someday, I will be in France for Bastille Day. Your description of the parade on the Champs Élysées makes me want to be there this weekend!

  769. Oh, Pal, thanks so much for all the tips and for your priceless experience!
    My name is Maggie and I am a strawberry blond Shih Tzu of about te same age you were when you made the journey to France. I hope to live with my mistress in the Languedoc…quite near to the part of France where you were.
    I have been hearing about the airplane and the train…but I really didn't know how it would be from a dog's perspective and I feel so much better now since my mistress read your blog to me. I will be traveling with my brother who is a (very nice) cat. My mistress is hopeful that she can find a friend to travel with us so she doesn't have to manage both Paddy and me on the train…
    Was it really OK to piddle in the airport? I think I would just die of embarrassment I I had to do that.
    Anyhow, thanks so much for your point of view on this traveling thing and the life in France…I have already learned "Ici" nd assiez toi"

  770. Darling story creatively written. Thanks!!

  771. With a play on words, we could call this "An American Dog in Provence"
    Her mistress, Alex was spending a semester in a French school and she missed Pal so much that her folks flew her over.
    All the waiters in townknew Pal and had a meal for her when she came in. This was a unique experience for this American dog. She was usually humilated by a big "No Dogs allowed" sign.In France she was greeted by a smiling group who was ready and willing to cater to her every wish. This brought back memories of Pal sitting on a "person" chair with a napkin tied around her neck ! So this truly unique dog was something for everyone to enjoy.
    She was a star, a true diva, so thanks for reminding us that this experience was memorable for both French and Americans.
    Fortunetly we still have Pal and she hasn't aged a bit!! She must have discovered tht famous French melon !!

  772. excellent story.

  773. This made me cry. Beautifully written. D'Agneau and I have such happy memories of Pal and can relate well to his feelings. We miss you and love you Pal! Please come back and visit us. Bisous.

  774. Shame on you Susan! You mentioned the Tuesday market in Lorgues and FORGOT all about the better, not to mention cuter, Tuesday market in Cotignac. D's nose is out of joint. Love you photos. Bis.

  775. I never realized Pal had such an extensive vocabulary! Brava, Pal! Nice story! ~ David

  776. I'm giong to steal your recipe for Les Clandestins!

  777. Mom, this is lovely! Based on "Pal"'s little writeup here, I fear she has set some impossibly high standards for when she comes to visit me in New York City… 🙂

  778. Hi Maggie,
    You will have so much fun because you can go so many places with your mistress. Your brother, being a cat, will not be able to join you (but, that's okay, eh?!).

    Your mistress and my owner will have to talk. I know she was surprised to read of your plans!

    Ah, the piddling…very embarrassing but what's a dog to do? My owner said that there are patches of grass outside the terminal but we were rushing for the TGV inside the airport terminal.

    Thanks so very much for the note!

  779. Thanks for the lovely feedback, Kirsten. It was fun to write, too! Hope you are staying cool out there in the San Joaquin Valley!

  780. Yes, you are right! Pal is a star! And,the French did adore her.

    I am reminded of a funny story~ A dear friend who visited us many times in Provence attended a lecture in Fresno, California by a French woman who had spent much time in Lourmarin. After the lecture, my friend asked the speaker if she, given Lourmarin is so small, knew us. She said "no" that she didn't think she did to which my friend said, "Oh, I thought you might because they were often at Cafe Gaby with their beagle." The woman then exclaimed, "Oh, the Americans with the beagle! Okay, I don't know them but I recall their dog!"

  781. Hi Pam and D'Agneau,
    I love your note and would return in a heartbeat but, I have a feeling my flying days are over. D'Agneau is so lucky to be able to fly IN the interior portion of the airplane! So you must visit me!
    xoxo,
    Pal

  782. She's rather quiet around company. Perhaps, with all the positive feedback from her story, she will write more!

  783. Ah, Alex, Pal would be in dog heaven hanging out under your new table with you!

  784. I wish Pal had known Dylan, my Welsh Terrier! Their lives didn't quite coincide on the same timeline, but they'd have been great friends. Dylan had a Birthday Party every year in August (he was a Virgo…always insisted on having the last word!) and then he'd write thank you notes for his b'dy presents, and he carried on a lively correspondence with his special people friends in the U.S. and in Malta (where he never visited). I couldn't bring him with me when I moved here as the pet immigration laws at the time still required a six-month quarantine, which I knew neither he nor I could survive. Dylan, too, was every inch a people dog! Thanks for the great read…and Spirit Greetings from Dylan to Bilbo, whom I remember with greatest fondness and joy! ; )

  785. Dear Susan,
    I read once that Van Gogh never sold a painting in his lifetime, which is heartbreaking if true. Luckily Matisse lived to see his success and you're right, this is a great reason to take a run down to lovely Nice! Maybe we'll meet up for drinks at Negresco!
    All the Best!

  786. Lovely blog, and adorable dog! Makes me miss my family in Biarritz, I have to go back soon!

  787. Brilliant! I love this story and look forward to the series as Pal has been quite the adventurer and known some interesting folks in her day. Some, I too know, and would love to hear Pal's memories of time spent together. She has led a charmed life while charming humans of all ages near and far. A note to Alex – while visiting you in NYC it is imperative Pal avoid the one lab mix who is allowed, possibly encouraged, by his walker to misbehave. Susan will know to whom I refer…Much love to all and THANK YOU for the beautiful story of one year in the life of the loving Beagle, Pal.
    Paws!

  788. I really enjoyed reading your posts on Matisse. It was very historically informative as well as very current in relation to what is going on right now. It makes me want to book a ticket to France right now! Thank you for sharing. I am looking forward to more!

  789. Van Gogh's story is heart wrenching for so many reasons, isn't it? Add he lived as long a Matisse did….hmmm.

    This event looks so good~I will keep my fingers crossed that I get to go! And a rendezvous at Negresco would be great!

    Thanks for your note and, as always, for keeping your finger on the pulse of Provence!

  790. Hi Katarzyna,
    Thanks so much for the positive feedback. I would love to be going over right now, too! I am glad that you have subscribed to TMT and I will look forward to reading more of your thoughts.

  791. Oh Cloe,
    Pal would have loved Dylan! The similarity of Dylan's inquisitive personality, as captured in the photo, with that of Pal's, as seen in her photo, is eerie. Thanks so much for sending that along! And thanks for the spirit greetings to our Bilbo Baggins.

    As always, thanks for your interesting comment.

  792. Hi Ahu and welcome to TMT! Your blog is inspired and I look forward to exploring it more.

    Family in Biarritz?! How lucky! Hope you do get to visit them soon.

    Thanks for your note!

  793. Hi Paws! Thanks for your sweet note. I will indeed give Alex a head's up about that incorrigible doggie in the neighborhood (although, really, his behavior was the fault of his walker!).

    You have witnessed many of Pal's adventures. I think she's do for another soon!

  794. This post is so informative! We will soon be in Nice (on OUR way to Italy from Marseilles) and hope to take in at least some of this exciting event. I also really like Matisse. Many thanks. Patty H.

  795. All right, all right, I'll go! Rather that it was with you. We can rent scoots to visit all the sites. Bis.

  796. It was nice to be "visiting" Nice, where so many famous visited. The story was off to a good start with the familiar portrait of the Sleeping Woman. The pictures were lovely and a reminder that there are some things that we never tire of seeing. I love his simple style.

  797. Susan – The mission figs on our backyard tree here in Fresno are ready to pick — if we get to them before the critters!! Thanks for your post. Thought you might enjoy this article about Fresno's Fig Garden and J.C. Forkner. Best! – Kirsten

    http://www.ladolcevitacalifornia.com/p/fresno-magazine-february-2011.html

  798. Yum. Yum. Yum. We love figs and are thrilled every time our tree puts out one or two. We savor them (if, like Kirsten, the critters didn't get them first) and then buy others we need at the farmers market. Sadly, our season has past here… but this has me dreaming of next years fig season! ~ David

  799. May I offer a simple fig recipe from Provence. Cut figs in half and place in a baking dish, cut side up. Sprinkle with brown sugar and cognac and bake in a 450F oven for seven minutes. Nothing could be simpler for my primitive cooking skills. Brian.

  800. My complements to the photographer,Towny,for the gorgeous mouth watering pictures of the figs. And to his bravery in taking these pictures, picking them when the fruit flies were out to get him and they finally succeded. After a trip to the pharmacist and a jar of salve, he was able to continue.
    The varius colors of the figs were so beautiful and brilliant, they made me wish that I could that I could stop every thing and make a tart as succulent and delicious as they looked in the pictures !!!
    Anyway, a great blog I wish I'd paid more attention to the figs when they were plentiful and seemed to be all over Fresno. I was young and I guess we just took them for granted. Now they are , due to developers, few and far between. I guess that"s why they say that "Wisdom comes with age".

  801. What a charming description of France en Portland! Lovely meal, lovely experience to share vicariously through your blog. – Mark

  802. I'm so glad that you are including local (North Eastern States) French culture tinged news. Brilliant!

  803. Soooo… we leave the area and NOW you get a really wonderful French bistro? I guess we will just have to visit! 🙂 It sounds amazing – will you be recreating any of the dishes chez vous? Sole meunière is a true favorite of mine… but, oh! the butter! The exhibit looks wonderful, too… so glad Portland was able to ease the pain for you… Bisous, David

  804. We went there today and loved it, the exhibit that is, and we hope to go to the bistro another time! Thanks for the tip!

  805. It's really an informative and well described post regarding WINE, OLIVE OIL, AND A LOT OF HISTORY . I appreciates your topic for blogging. Thanks for sharing such a useful post.

  806. I would like to try a bottle of Garrus for my next birthday. I’m hoping one of our wonderful Portsmouth wine stores will secretly put one away and recommend it to my husband. It would certainly be much cheaper than a trip to Paris!

    • Great way to put the cost in perspective–Your husband may buy you a case for your birthday!

      Unfortunately, it is not available in Portsmouth. But, you can find it at Urban Grape on 303 Columbus Ave in Boston. I worked with Yoko–she was very helpful and is very knowledgeable and she had visited Chateau d’Esclans. TJ,the owner of Urban Grape, was a wealth of information about wine, but, when I met him at the Chestnut Hill store, they did not have Garrus…but they did have Whispering Angel!

  807. I would like to try a bottle of Garrus for my next birthday. I'm hoping one of our wonderful Portsmouth wine stores will secretly put one away and recommend it to my husband. It would certainly be much cheaper than a trip to Paris!

  808. Part of the charm of the early books by Peter Mayle was his description of the community activities found in some little known locations. I recall his describing how he would bring his own jug to the local wine cooperative in (in Bonnieux I believe). I see quite a stretch from Rose wine from the co-op in a plastic jug to $95 a bottle versions. Are we all just victims of a superb marketing campaign? I’ll can’t say about the wine itself, but the price certainly bedazzles.

    • Hi George,
      The good news–that I am sure even Peter Mayle celebrates–is that the wine you fill your jug with at the local cooperative is much better these days! I’m sure that you, like me, have had your share of awful wine out of those jugs in the Luberon!

      At the risk of sounding like I drank the kool-aid with the Garrus, these serious rosé producers helped to raise the bar in Provence.

      Yea, their marketing is very good…but so is the product!

      We have to get you up for another tasting!

      Thanks so much for your thoughts!

  809. Part of the charm of the early books by Peter Mayle was his description of the community activities found in some little known locations. I recall his describing how he would bring his own jug to the local wine cooperative in (in Bonnieux I believe). I see quite a stretch from Rose wine from the co-op in a plastic jug to $95 a bottle versions. Are we all just victims of a superb marketing campaign? I’ll can’t say about the wine itself, but the price certainly bedazzles.

  810. Any party at the Manfull’s is sure to provide interesting people, good food, fine spirits and plenty of craic.* Truly, a wine tasting party at the Manfull’s is an invitation to be sought out and certainly not to be missed if you are among the chosen. Fortunately, Susan and Towny are inclusive to those who realize how life enhancing good friends, beautifully prepared food, fine music and delectable wines have proven to be for the many years, oh my, decades I have known them. Whispering Angel is next on my wish list. bonne nuit!
    *I could not find a French word/s for craic in any online translator! Seriously?

    • Always on the cutting edge of cool language….I had to consult Urban Dictionary to learn about “craic.” Great word…wonder if there is a French Urban dictionary? Hmmmm….

      Come back and we’ll do some more tasting!

  811. Any party at the Manfull's is sure to provide interesting people, good food, fine spirits and plenty of craic.* Truly, a wine tasting party at the Manfull's is an invitation to be sought out and certainly not to be missed if you are among the chosen. Fortunately, Susan and Towny are inclusive to those who realize how life enhancing good friends, beautifully prepared food, fine music and delectable wines have proven to be for the many years, oh my, decades I have known them. Whispering Angel is next on my wish list. bonne nuit!
    *I could not find a French word/s for craic in any online translator! Seriously?

  812. I am truly delighted to read this post which contains plenty of helpful facts, thanks for providing these data. Great article, exactly what I needed.

    Beer Baseball Cap

  813. Great way to put the cost in perspective–Your husband may buy you a case for your birthday!

    Unfortunately, it is not available in Portsmouth. But, you can find it at Urban Grape on 303 Columbus Ave in Boston. I worked with Yoko–she was very helpful and is very knowledgeable and she had visited Chateau d'Esclans. TJ,the owner of Urban Grape, was a wealth of information about wine, but, when I met him at the Chestnut Hill store, they did not have Garrus…but they did have Whispering Angel!

  814. Hi George,
    The good news–that I am sure even Peter Mayle celebrates–is that the wine you fill your jug with at the local cooperative is much better these days! I'm sure that you, like me, have had your share of awful wine out of those jugs in the Luberon!

    At the risk of sounding like I drank the kool-aid with the Garrus, these serious rosé producers helped to raise the bar in Provence.

    Yea, their marketing is very good…but so is the product!

    We have to get you up for another tasting!

    Thanks so much for your thoughts!

  815. Oh, how I wish we had been with you all! What an incredible review of these wines, and the history of the rise in popularity of rosé! Thanks so much – I always learn so much from reading your posts! xox, David

    • I wish you could have been here, too. I’ll supply the wine and you do the cooking. Okay? Maybe I’ll serve the rosés I think would pair best with your meal and Towny can serve his selections….we’ll see whose wines work best! Thanks for you nice comments, too.

  816. Oh, how I wish we had been with you all! What an incredible review of these wines, and the history of the rise in popularity of rosé! Thanks so much – I always learn so much from reading your posts! xox, David

  817. Well done you, Susan. Amazing post. Really. Informative, funny, and fab tasting notes. I can feel the wines in my mouth. You should be doing this professionally. I’m going to get myself to La Motte and taste the d’Esclans reds and whites for you and get me a bottle of Whispering Angel. But for now, it’s time to hit the café and have a verre of ice crackling rosé (no comparison at 1.40€ a glass, of course!).

  818. Well done you, Susan. Amazing post. Really. Informative, funny, and fab tasting notes. I can feel the wines in my mouth. You should be doing this professionally. I'm going to get myself to La Motte and taste the d'Esclans reds and whites for you and get me a bottle of Whispering Angel. But for now, it's time to hit the café and have a verre of ice crackling rosé (no comparison at 1.40€ a glass, of course!).

  819. Always on the cutting edge of cool language….I had to consult Urban Dictionary to learn about "craic." Great word…wonder if there is a French Urban dictionary? Hmmmm….

    Come back and we'll do some more tasting!

  820. I wish you could have been here, too. I'll supply the wine and you do the cooking. Okay? Maybe I'll serve the rosés I think would pair best with your meal and Towny can serve his selections….we'll see whose wines work best! Thanks for you nice comments, too.

  821. I will be there soon…let's make the rounds together…sans le Panda SVP. In the mean time, enjoy the village rosé!

  822. Beautiful Blog , pictures so inviting. Newly designed bottles bring a fresh new look. Nice to see that something new and exciting has exploded on the wine scene.
    Now pink is just not for girls The guys have discovered it and EVERYONE is free to Think Pink !
    It looks like a PARTY IN A GLASS !!!!!

  823. Beautiful Blog , pictures so inviting. Newly designed bottles bring a fresh new look. Nice to see that something new and exciting has exploded on the wine scene.
    Now pink is just not for girls The guys have discovered it and EVERYONE is free to Think Pink !
    It looks like a PARTY IN A GLASS !!!!!

  824. Thank you! Yes, you are right–rosé is for everyone and for all year! Great image for rosé–a party in a glass! Enjoy!

  825. The picture of you at lunch, well it just made me happy!

    • I love that place–Le Castelas in Sivergues, otherwise known as the “goat farm.” It’s not far from Lourmarin, although the drive up into the Luberon Mountains is very narrow and windy.

      When I was writing about how rosé can so easily transport people back to Provence, I kept thinking of Le Casteles and all the fun lunches (and dinners, too) that I have enjoyed there.

      Have you been there, Paul? You would like it.

      Thanks so much for the comment–it made me smile!

  826. The picture of you at lunch, well it just made me happy!

  827. I love that place–Le Castelas in Sivergues, otherwise known as the "goat farm." It's not far from Lourmarin, although the drive up into the Luberon Mountains is very narrow and windy.

    When I was writing about how rosé can so easily transport people back to Provence, I kept thinking of Le Casteles and all the fun lunches (and dinners, too) that I have enjoyed there.

    Have you been there, Paul? You would like it.

    Thanks so much for the comment–it made me smile!

  828. Je suis le professeur de Francais de Susan, et je voudrais bien gouter votre vin qui s’appelle Garrus, mais peut-etre Whispering Angel serait preferable parce qu’il est moins cher! Merci beaucoup.

  829. Je suis le professeur de Francais de Susan, et je voudrais bien gouter votre vin qui s'appelle Garrus, mais peut-etre Whispering Angel serait preferable parce qu'il est moins cher! Merci beaucoup.

  830. Hi Susan, Thanks so much for popping by I Dream Of last week. It’s so funny, while we were in Provence I had been researching some villages a friend had recommended, looking for some good spots to grab lunch. I came across your blog and found it quite helpful! So thanks so much for helping to make our little adventures more delicious.
    Best,
    Jeanne

    • Hi back Jeanne,
      I am so glad that The Modern Trobadors was helpful! I am thoroughly enjoying your evocative posts and just chimed in on your comment “conversation” about fall!

  831. Hi Susan, Thanks so much for popping by I Dream Of last week. It's so funny, while we were in Provence I had been researching some villages a friend had recommended, looking for some good spots to grab lunch. I came across your blog and found it quite helpful! So thanks so much for helping to make our little adventures more delicious.
    Best,
    Jeanne

  832. Hey, I can't seem to find your email. I had a quick question about your blog! Can you email me?

    -Shaye

    shayewalsh1@gmail.com

  833. Hi Susan, we have been to Pont du Gard twice and each time we marvel at it's majesty and beauty and the skill of the Romans who built it, but then my mind switches to Millau Viaduct, a modern marvel, the beauty is, you can see both of these wonderful viaducts on one trip, as they are both in France.
    Thanks again
    Paul

  834. Great article, Susan! I especially like the addition of the Rousseau and James quotes. I am so glad we got to see it when we were there – it is truly a magnificent architectural and engineering feat! ~ David

  835. Such a beautiful and descriptive blog ! It's unbeleivable to realize that the Romans knew so much about design. and lasting durability. It makes the pyramids of Egypt look primative. Unless an unforseen catastrophy should occur, I'm sure that aquaduct should be standing for many generations.

  836. My first introduction to the Pont du Gard was when I walked into a colleague's office at my college in Montreal, Quebec, Canada and saw an Air France poster featuring it. I had never seen anything so majestic and beautiful. Then and there I decided that I had to see it. Two years later, on my first visit to France, I did. I was fortunate to have had a classical education and therefore I was aware of the Romans' engineering skills but this beats all (although I have not yet seen the Parthenon)

  837. I just made this fig tart– not as pretty as yours but really wonderful. Thank you for sharing such a good story and recipe!

  838. Susan–When are you going to open your bottle of Garrus?

  839. Susan–When are you going to open your bottle of Garrus?

  840. How fun that all those performers – even if not perfectly up to snuff – were there to remember and celebrated Édith Piaf! I love Angélique Kidjo and Madeleine Peyroux – how fun! I have always thought that Harry Connick, Jr. was really quite talented, and not so surprised at Patricia Kass' presentation. Oh, I wish I had bee with you! I guess I will be heading off to bead with La Vie en Rose in my head. Not such a bad thing, eh? ~ David

  841. I wish you could have been there, too! The music was terrific and it was so much, well, fun!

    In a completely different genre of music–that you would have loved– we stopped by the Cloisters on the way to hear/experience "The Forty Part Motet." Forty B&W speakers are set up in an an oval shape in a 12th c Spanish Chapel–each speaker plays one voice from the Salisbury Cathedral Choir singing a 16th composition. In a NYT piece on the "exhibition," it was described as as "transcendent." It was very moving.

    So, two very different musical experiences within 24 hours!

  842. Hi Paul,
    I would LOVE to see that bridge….although the thought of driving across it unnerves me, I will do it when I finally get there. I have included a link here for readers who are not familiar with the beauty, the grace, and the immenseness of it:
    http://www.leviaducdemillau.com/fr

    Thanks so much for your note!

  843. I thought those quotes really capture what one feels when the Pont du Gard is first seen. We had a fun day, eh?!

  844. The Romans continue to amaze me! I would still like to see those Egyptian pyramids and would especially like to visit Malta where, my friend Cloe, who runs tour groups in Malta, says there is the "oldest freestanding architecture in the world." (Are you reading this Cloe?)

    Thanks so much for your thoughts!

  845. I think that the Parthenon would elicit the same feelings of awe, don't you? Built a few hundred years before the Pont du Gard, it still radiates majesty. Is it on your list?

    I enjoy being stopped in my tracks, bowled over by such great accomplishments. I wish it happened more often.

    Thanks very much for your note.

  846. Chere Janine,
    We will have to open a bottle during one of my French lessons–maybe my French will be better!
    Bisous!

  847. Hi back Jeanne,
    I am so glad that The Modern Trobadors was helpful! I am thoroughly enjoying your evocative posts and just chimed in on your comment "conversation" about fall!

  848. Hmmm….I am not quite sure. I would like to hold out a year, but don't know that I will be able to resist.

    I will be tasting some 2010 and 2011 Garrus (as well as some other Château d'Esclans rosés) in October at the NY Wine and Food Festival. Paul Chevalier will be talking about "The Rosé Lifestyle of St. Tropez" as he pours. Here is a link:
    http://events.nydailynews.com/new_york_ny/events/show/346968683-chateau-desclans-the-rose-lifestyle-of-st-tropez-hosted-by-paul-chevalier-and-sasha-lachine

    The event is Sunday, Oct 20 2:30p to 3:45p and is $85. Let me know if you go!

  849. I'm glad I was one of the lucky recipients of the tickets! Amazing performance and Mom captured the Kass "experience" perfectly… And for anyone who hasn't already, watch the film based on Piaf's life, La Vie En Rose, inspiring for all of us.
    -Alex

  850. Nice to see a happy group enjoying themselves ! Wouldn't it be a wonderful surprise for her to know that she hasbeen remembered in such an adoring way.. Long live her memory for generations to come.

  851. Susan, thanks for introducing us to Vaugines! A place in the Luberon we've never been… but next time!

  852. Susan,

    Makes me want to move there – if my house ever sells!

    Merci!

    -Henry

  853. I would love to hear your impressions–let me know! Thanks for your note, Kathy!

  854. Good to hear from you, Henry! Vaugines is a very special place…I hope your house sells soon! Thanks for your comment!

  855. Alex, It was a very fun evening, wasn't it?! Even the (few) performances that did not speak to us have provided us with lots of conversation. Thanks for your comment!

  856. I, too, wonder what she would think if she were able to see that her songs still generate such enthusiasm and her story such inspiration. And, it was indeed a happy group!

  857. We have stopped several times at the church in Vaugines to sit on the bench where Yves Montand's character registers the horrible reality of his actions. Wonderful story and great filmmaking! I have never explored the village, but will do so next time I go to Provence — which will be a while since I just returned on Saturday. I was in Lourmarin for about four days. I understand fully why you are hooked.

  858. Susan,
    Nice Blog. I Particulary enjoyed hearing about that happy interesting couple that you met and made tentative arrangements to meet at the same place, same time next year.
    Knowing you and your husband and your generous invitations, I fully expect to hear one day they willl be invited to a delicious dinner at their home. I will mark my calendar !!!

  859. Kirsten,
    Lourmarin is definitely where I choose to stay but Vaugines is a lovely place for solitude. They do have a fête votive in August and I would love to go to see the more social side of the village. As I wrote, the pizza is quite good at L'Origan and an evening under the stars is very inviting!

    Good to know you are home safely and I hope it was a productive trip!

  860. I am not sure that I made it clear in the post that the couple don't live in Vaugines, making it all the more interesting that we should see them in the same spot two years in a row. we missed each other last year! I do really look forward to seeing them and would relish the thought of having them over for dinner!

  861. How wonderful that you have kept up with that lovely couple since the day we were there together and met them! I had no idea that they didn't live there – how amazing that you saw them again there. I loved the church but don't remember that we explored the village. Next time, we must! ~ David

  862. What a fun post, to learn the modest beginnings of Les Voiles. I would definitely want to visit the museum, as Vuillard and Bonnard are two of my favorite artists. Their narrative paintings are such beautiful depictions of "la vie quotidienne." Visiting St. Tropez otherwise might just remind me of some unfortunate former employers,,, I would definitely skip the glitzy parts!

  863. PS – I know now your frustrations of trying to comment using an iPhone. C'est impossible! A soon as you click 'publish' everything disappears. I will stick to the iPad! (I happens on my own blog, too!)

  864. You bet I'm reading…tho' sadly MoDachaidh will not be making the trip to France with me…perhaps in time I will find a daysailer to get us to St.Tropez.
    The folks who own the house I want have agreed to rent it to me until I get disentangled legally and my ETD for the Languedoc is about the beginning of December…you must come and visit!

  865. St. Tropez has been on my "to experience" list for a while. Thanks for bumping it higher! I really enjoyed Pamela's photography — she has a good eye.

  866. Excellent reading. Makes me feel like I were there.

  867. Beautifully written Susan. Wonderful photos from Pam O'Neill. D'Agneau, her little lamb is as sweet as ever. Towny's technical assistance from Berlin spot on as usual. This effort reinforces "it take a village" and how technology has expanded "our village" population. After Oracle's recent big win, the article is perfectly timed for those of us on the left coast. This vibrant buzz described in this wonderfully alive article is reminiscent of Formula ! at Monte Carlo. A "day" trip I took one year with my teenaged children landed us in St. Tropez after dark. Street performers included flame swallowers lighting up the night with excitement for the throngs of people still meandering the streets late into the night. We arrived in the wee hours at the home of our gracious hosts with memories of the gorgeous French Riviera to last a lifetime. This prompts me to return to St. Tropez to enjoy in the light of day. Thank you for this armchair trip…

  868. Great as always, Susan. I always learn something new from reading your blogs AND I LIVE HERE! This was a tough assignment for your roving reporter, especially having to swill all that Rosé. I'm expecting hardship pay. Thanks for including so many Lamb photos. You're a good Auntie. Bisous.

  869. Let's plan a trip…during the OFF-season! Less expensive and much more appealing! But, even at the height of the season (once you are there), it is a of fun!

    And on the subject of iPhones and blogger, why can't they work out their differences?!

    Thanks for your note from Venice!

  870. Linda, I will come to visit! This sounds like a long story. (I hope you are writing it!) I will look forward to sailing into Saint-Tropez!

  871. Hi Kirsten,
    It is a very vibrant place in the summer and a quietly charming place in the off season. I just wrote to David (above) that we should plan a visit there–you want to join us?!

  872. Thanks so much. It was a fun story to write although I may have to go back soon to do more research….sigh!

  873. I am sure that trip was most memorable for your children, too–what fun! (And Formula 1 at Monte Carlo has long been on our list of things to do!)

    Writing this piece was particularly fun–you are right that it did take both a village and a lot of technology, including a few telephone calls that are almost free these days!

    It sounds like a trip back to St-Tropez is definitely in order!

    Thanks for your wonderful response full of vivid detail!

  874. This was certainly one of your best blogs,Susan ! Maybe those stern looking shop owners are smarter than we think. If every request to use the restroom brings a guilt ridden patron with a load of purchases like you, the cash register would go Ca-Ching Ca-Ching all day long ! They are probably laughing
    all the way to the bank!! The photographs by Pam O'Neill and Towny Manfull are outstanding !! Maybe they should Quit their day jobs. Now, if you had received just one dollar for every glass of wine you have shown in your blogs, you could drive to the Nikki Club and show the valet what a really expensive car looks like !!

  875. Wow, incredible sleuthing Susan…a very informative and interesting read. You may want to think about creating a tour company geared toward foodies and wine lovers adventures. Thank you as always for another amazing story. Have your aunt and uncle Barbara and Max been over to visit while you’ve been in residence? Sounds right up their alley. ;0) Denise

    • Thanks very much, Denise! I became curiouser and curiouser! And, no, unfortunately, we have not met up with Barbara and Max in Provence, but I have always thought we would have fun together there!

  876. Great sleuthing, team! Keep us posted as the story unfolds!

  877. Great sleuthing, team! Keep us posted as the story unfolds!

  878. WOWZA! Susan! What a scoop! Yes, definitely keep us avid readers in the loop!

  879. WOWZA! Susan! What a scoop! Yes, definitely keep us avid readers in the loop!

  880. You are the Nancy Drew of Oenology! (If only little Nancy were allowed to have wine… just think of what she could do!) Loved this story – and, like you, I don’t really care one way or the other. But it is curious! ~ David

    • Ah, Nancy Drew…I was an avid fan and have some very old books that Alex read, too! Maybe I could start a new series for adults!

      You are right about whether it is bio or not doesn’t matter as much as what happened. I always take note when a winery is “bio” because it does take more effort and more expense, but there are many wineries that employ sustainable methods that eliminate or reduce the need for pesticides but are not certified. The proof is ultimately in the bottle!

      Thanks, David, for your note!

  881. You are the Nancy Drew of Oenology! (If only little Nancy were allowed to have wine… just think of what she could do!) Loved this story – and, like you, I don't really care one way or the other. But it is curious! ~ David

  882. Wow, incredible sleuthing Susan…a very informative and interesting read. You may want to think about creating a tour company geared toward foodies and wine lovers adventures. Thank you as always for another amazing story. Have your aunt and uncle Barbara and Max been over to visit while you've been in residence? Sounds right up their alley. ;0) Denise

  883. Thanks very much, Denise! I became curiouser and curiouser! And, no, unfortunately, we have not met up with Barbara and Max in Provence, but I have always thought we would have fun together there!

  884. Thanks, Kirsten. I will keep you posted but, I have a feeling that we will not get to the bottom of this caper!

  885. Maybe you can help me once you are over there! Thanks, Linda!

  886. Ah, Nancy Drew…I was an avid fan and have some very old books that Alex read, too! Maybe I could start a new series for adults!

    You are right about whether it is bio or not doesn't matter as much as what happened. I always take note when a winery is "bio" because it does take more effort and more expense, but there are many wineries that employ sustainable methods that eliminate or reduce the need for pesticides but are not certified. The proof is ultimately in the bottle!

    Thanks, David, for your note!

  887. Curious minds want to know…but only Benjamin Button knows for sure. Will keep ear to the ground here in the Var for release of the Coteaux Varois and see what the label tells us. Kudos, Girl Snoop. Love the last photo, Towny. Très artistique.

  888. Curious minds want to know…but only Benjamin Button knows for sure. Will keep ear to the ground here in the Var for release of the Coteaux Varois and see what the label tells us. Kudos, Girl Snoop. Love the last photo, Towny. Très artistique.

  889. Can you do some sleuthing around the chateau-neuf-de-pape wineries. I expect you’ll find a lot of slight-of-hand action. Or, better yet, start in California! Really enjoyed these posts. A faithful admirer (……of your post)

    • Thanks for your positive feedback. My grandfather worked in the wine industry when California wineries were very small family-run operations. I wish he were here to tell some stories!

  890. Can you do some sleuthing around the chateau-neuf-de-pape wineries. I expect you'll find a lot of slight-of-hand action. Or, better yet, start in California! Really enjoyed these posts. A faithful admirer (……of your post)

  891. Aha! If one were a Hardy Wine Boy, he might imagine that M. Perrin has a Google Alert set up and, when your post aired, he read it, followed by your email that had been sitting in his inbox marked “undread”, thus his immediate and sudden response. That is, IF one were a Hardy Wine Boy. ~ David

  892. Aha! If one were a Hardy Wine Boy, he might imagine that M. Perrin has a Google Alert set up and, when your post aired, he read it, followed by your email that had been sitting in his inbox marked "undread", thus his immediate and sudden response. That is, IF one were a Hardy Wine Boy. ~ David

  893. Thanks for your positive feedback. My grandfather worked in the wine industry when California wineries were very small family-run operations. I wish he were here to tell some stories!

  894. I suspect the Hardy Wine Boy is on the right trail. Glad you are following the case!

  895. Are you going to the New York Food and Wine Show to taste some Chateau d’Esclans rose?

  896. Are you going to the New York Food and Wine Show to taste some Chateau d'Esclans rose?

  897. Yes Benjamin Button was on my mind as I wrote this post…I wondered who would be the first to mention him!

    Yes, as No.1 roving reporter, please keep us posted on the new wines!

  898. Yes Benjamin Button was on my mind as I wrote this post…I wondered who would be the first to mention him!

    Yes, as No.1 roving reporter, please keep us posted on the new wines!

  899. Speaking of curious…still want to know if there are trademark restrictions regarding use of the “Pink Floyd” name on the new Miraval labels in the U.S. as opposed to in France. Seems odd considering the Chateau Miraval Pink Floyd of the past was sold in the States. Do you suppose they’re going to phase out the name PF but didn’t want to alienate their French fans with first J-P-P offspring?

  900. Speaking of curious…still want to know if there are trademark restrictions regarding use of the "Pink Floyd" name on the new Miraval labels in the U.S. as opposed to in France. Seems odd considering the Chateau Miraval Pink Floyd of the past was sold in the States. Do you suppose they're going to phase out the name PF but didn't want to alienate their French fans with first J-P-P offspring?

  901. Bedazzling summary Susan. Mitri would be proud of you. Did you do the chart? Looks like I’ll have to get over to d’Esclans and take some pics. Perhaps they’ll let me taste if I drop Alex’s name.

  902. Bedazzling summary Susan. Mitri would be proud of you. Did you do the chart? Looks like I'll have to get over to d'Esclans and take some pics. Perhaps they'll let me taste if I drop Alex's name.

  903. p.s. So jealous that I wasn’t there. And, Alex, so jealous that I don’t look like you!

    • We will have a “re-do” when we are all together!

    • Je voudrais bien but with Paul Chevalier. Much more illuminating and engaging to have someone intimate with the domain and its viniculture guiding you through, especially with vertical and horizontal tastings, which are more subtle. Date?

    • I think that Paul could develop quite a following!

    • Re a tasting with Paul Chevalier, he said that he will be at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival on February 23rd. It looks like the event runs from the 20th to the 23rd.

      Sacha Lichine will be hosting the same wine tasting (as I attended in NYC) in Boston in February on the 15th!

      We are still hoping he will be up in Portsmouth, once it thaws.

  904. p.s. So jealous that I wasn't there. And, Alex, so jealous that I don't look like you!

  905. Wow – that much have been so much fun for you! And it was incredibly coherent considering the amount of tasting you did! 🙂 My favorite part is the chart of pinks – how fun is that? ~ David

  906. Wow – that much have been so much fun for you! And it was incredibly coherent considering the amount of tasting you did! 🙂 My favorite part is the chart of pinks – how fun is that? ~ David

  907. I am sure Mitri Shanab was looking over my shoulder….Let's plan a "Day at the Châteaux" when I am there!

  908. We will have a "re-do" when we are all together!

  909. and David, I wish you would have been there. You would have loved it!

  910. This comment has been removed by the author.

  911. Je voudrais bien but with Paul Chevalier. Much more illuminating and engaging to have someone intimate with the domain and its viniculture guiding you through, especially with vertical and horizontal tastings, which are more subtle. Date?

  912. This comment has been removed by the author.

  913. O.K. Susan, remember the mysterious bottle of Pink Floyd “of old” (to take a peek, go to: http://tinyurl.com/k9kso9m) we spied on an internet site? Well, my Cotignac Deep Throat has gotten to the bottom of it. There is indeed a 2012 Pink Floyd in addition to the 2012 Miraval Côtes-de-Provence rosé. A limited quantity was produced to fulfill an evidently iron-clad contract with Société des alcools du Québec, the government-owned corporation responsible for the trade of alcoholic beverages within the province of Quebec. So, no label trumpery here. It was the real thing!

  914. O.K. Susan, remember the mysterious bottle of Pink Floyd "of old" (to take a peek, go to: http://tinyurl.com/k9kso9m) we spied on an internet site? Well, my Cotignac Deep Throat has gotten to the bottom of it. There is indeed a 2012 Pink Floyd in addition to the 2012 Miraval Côtes-de-Provence rosé. A limited quantity was produced to fulfill an evidently iron-clad contract with Société des alcools du Québec, the government-owned corporation responsible for the trade of alcoholic beverages within the province of Quebec. So, no label trumpery here. It was the real thing!

  915. Susan,

    Your wine related items over the past two issues are truly first rate. Certainly wish I could have been at the table to partake of the Sacha Lichine rose’s you tasted in New York recently. As I am decidedly old school, I wonder if you have yield information other than bunches of grapes per vine. I relate better to the time honored French system of hl/ha (hectoliters per hectare). Any way of telling me what the four growing areas are pegged at, i.e. I assume something like 45 hl/ha at the top, and 65-70 hl/ha on the floor.

    Regards,
    Jerry

    • Hi Jerry,
      Thanks for such positive feedback. I am going to forward your inquiry to Paul Chevalier who will undoubtedly be able to answer right away. It was indeed a terrific tasting and I know you and Benedicte would have loved it!

    • Hi Jerry, I asked Paul about this a while ago and, after established the answer, I forgot to pass it along to you! My apologies. Paul, before I finished my question, knowingly chuckled and acknowledged that most people who know wine prefer the information about which you wondered.

      For people who don’t know, you are inquiring about how much wine is made per hectare (as is the custom in most of Europe), whereas in North America, the yield is measured by grapes per acre/ hectare. Paul said that Whispering Angel (on the floor) is 55-60 and Garrus (at the top) is about 35-40. By comparison, Dom Perignon yields are similar to Whispering Angel (i.e., very profitable). Paul said that very few estates have such low yields.

      Thanks so much for your question–Sacha Lichine will be hosting the same tasting in Boston in February (15-16) at the Wine Expo. If memory serves me correctly, it is $35–well worth the price!

  916. Susan,

    Your wine related items over the past two issues are truly first rate. Certainly wish I could have been at the table to partake of the Sacha Lichine rose's you tasted in New York recently. As I am decidedly old school, I wonder if you have yield information other than bunches of grapes per vine. I relate better to the time honored French system of hl/ha (hectoliters per hectare). Any way of telling me what the four growing areas are pegged at, i.e. I assume something like 45 hl/ha at the top, and 65-70 hl/ha on the floor.

    Regards,
    Jerry

  917. this blog was perhaps the most interesting and mouth watering story yet !As a person who prefers rose’ wine , and was once looked down their noses by those with more expertise, enjoyed a glass of wine with dinner without really thinking about it until I read the in depth dscription of the four wines. At that time I wish I could taste each one with with my newly educated taste buds and the expertise of a professional. I wish that we could have a real first class wine tasting in Southern Califotnia. Paul Chevalier would be a first choice.

    • I received your email indicating that this comment was meant to appear under the post about the Chateau d’Esclans tasting in NYC. So, at your request, I have copied and pasted your comment there, too!

      Sounds like you were ahead of your time! I can see that there is a lot of interest in rose these days and in learning more about tasting it! In the end, what matters most is what you like…but, a professional tasting sure is informative and fun!

  918. this blog was perhaps the most interesting and mouth watering story yet !As a person who prefers rose' wine , and was once looked down their noses by those with more expertise, enjoyed a glass of wine with dinner without really thinking about it until I read the in depth dscription of the four wines. At that time I wish I could taste each one with with my newly educated taste buds and the expertise of a professional. I wish that we could have a real first class wine tasting in Southern Califotnia. Paul Chevalier would be a first choice.

  919. Ah Susan, you are making me so hungry! What a lovely entry. We must share more dining experiences, "combining good food, good wine and good friends…" this summer.

  920. I had to stop reading this and heat up some leftover pasta. Your photos are so so good. They make me want to gobble up the ingredients, let alone the finished products. I hope you'll post more as you make your way through the book. And thank you for having given me two of my favorite books – Well's The Provencal Cookbook and Gopnik's The Table Comes First.

  921. p.s. Pic of you and Patricia is way cute. And I think you're wearing the same shoes!

  922. Susan, you have inspired me to buy another Patricia Welles cookbook. I have made every recipe in the one I own and can't wait to make the ones you have pictured in your article.

  923. I am looking forward to your return to our table (and I will make sure to remind Dennis about that big bottle of Garrus!) Happy sailing!

  924. There are many more delectable-looking recipes in her new book–I know I will be making more! I may have to start with the Pomegranate and Buttermilk Sorbet that you made! I hope my brother will save some pomegranates for me!

    I enjoyed chatting with Patricia. She looked terrific and not much different than she did, probably fifteen years ago, when we attended an event at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. There, the chef of one of the museum's restaurants prepared a lunch, based on the recipes from one of her new books. Patricia came by each table and chatted.

    I look forward to hanging out in the kitchen with you sometime soon!

  925. I don't think I have ever gone wrong with one of her recipes! Let's spend some time in the kitchen with her new book when you come to visit!

  926. Would love to have been at that lunch. Remember what they served?
    And, yes, moi aussi. Come stay at l'Hovel.

  927. Your question has thrown me for a loop. I don't at all recall what we had other than it was very good. I thought it was part of her book tour for "Patricia Wells At Home in Provence," but that book is not signed. "The Food Lover's Guide to Paris" is signed so it must have been a luncheon to promote that book (published in 1999). I only remember that Towny and I went with neighbor Heidi who is an accomplished cook and loves Patricia Wells…I wonder if Heidi's memory is any better…

  928. Oh my goodness! How many people do you have to your home for dinner? How do I get on the invitation list?

  929. Susan, the cookbook sounds great. I will definitely check it out. I was in Vaison in September and wandered the upper medieval village. I passed many lovely entryways and would not be surprised to find that one had been hers. Lovely village!

  930. Hi Jerry,
    Thanks for such positive feedback. I am going to forward your inquiry to Paul Chevalier who will undoubtedly be able to answer right away. It was indeed a terrific tasting and I know you and Benedicte would have loved it!

  931. I think that Paul could develop quite a following!

  932. A day at the Châteaux?
    Bientôt…j'espère!

  933. Note to my readers: This post, dated (November 1) was inadvertently placed on the post entitled "The Curious Case of Miraval's Grapes." So, with the commenter's permission, I have posted it here. Best, Susan

    this blog was perhaps the most interesting and mouth watering story yet !As a person who prefers rose' wine , and was once looked down their noses by those with more expertise, enjoyed a glass of wine with dinner without really thinking about it until I read the in depth dscription of the four wines. At that time I wish I could taste each one with with my newly educated taste buds and the expertise of a professional. I wish that we could have a real first class wine tasting in Southern Califotnia. Paul Chevalier would be a first choice.

  934. I received your email indicating that this comment was meant to appear under the post about the Chateau d'Esclans tasting in NYC. So, at your request, I have copied and pasted your comment there, too!

    Sounds like you were ahead of your time! I can see that there is a lot of interest in rose these days and in learning more about tasting it! In the end, what matters most is what you like…but, a professional tasting sure is informative and fun!

  935. Note to my readers: This post, dated (November 1) was inadvertently placed on the post entitled “The Curious Case of Miraval’s Grapes.” So, with the commenter’s permission, I have posted it here. Best, Susan

    this blog was perhaps the most interesting and mouth watering story yet !As a person who prefers rose’ wine , and was once looked down their noses by those with more expertise, enjoyed a glass of wine with dinner without really thinking about it until I read the in depth dscription of the four wines. At that time I wish I could taste each one with with my newly educated taste buds and the expertise of a professional. I wish that we could have a real first class wine tasting in Southern Califotnia. Paul Chevalier would be a first choice.

    • I asked Paul if there would be any tastings on the west coast–it seems that Austin might be the furthest west. Darn! But, you could have fun tasting them with a small group of people…although tasting the wines with such expertise is a real learning experience (and fun!).

  936. Excellent Reading – looks like some great recipes !

  937. Excellent Reading – looks like some great recipes !

  938. I have learned a lot from Patricia Wells about beiing organized and having all the ingredients ready to go. Has anyone else ever been in the middle of cooking and discovered that the spice she was looking for had disappeared from it's usual place in the cupboard, thus requiring a quick trip to the store ?
    Aside from a "go to" person ,(like a husband), at your beck and call ,this can a problem.
    As usual, the pictures are so tempting that I wish I had a tasting spoon for each dish!
    An interesting blog and, as always, a desire to don an apron and ,get cooking !!!

  939. Susan – how lucky you were to be there! Your preparations (and the mise en place for each) are beautiful. What fool would say 'no' to a dinner at your home? The new book is so beautiful – and there are so many great recipes within! Now, if we only had time to make them all… ~ David

    PS – thanks for the shout-out for C&L! I love the pain de mie, but the saffron and honey brioche sounds amazing!

  940. Great article Susan! It's three kisses on our side of the Luberon too (Bonnieux).

  941. Susan, you've nailed it again! I'll give you an on the spot report on the Languedoc …sometime this winter!
    Well done, this! Wherever did you find that map! What a hoot!

  942. Love this and I have been involved in a few akward moments…but not in France or even Europe. It was in Ecuador where I reached out to shake a gentleman's hand and he said no, no, no this is how we do it in Ecuador and he promptly kissed me on both cheeks…I later learned that Ecuadorians try to emulate the French in all aspects of life. Ecuadorians first choice in vacation destinations is Paris. Denise

  943. Other cultures have their kissing rituals. Many, many years ago at a party in London I met a young lady from Poland. As we parted she held out her hand, palm down and fingers slightly curled. I shook her hand though that seemed rather awkward. As a result of this encounter I was invited to Poland. Not having my motorcycle insured for trips behind the iron curtain, I had to find another insurance company and lighted upon the splendidly named Baltic and Black Sea Insurance Company. At their office I waited for the agent, a very courtly gentleman, to finish with another client (a Polish lady) and noticed that as she left she held out her hand, palm down. Whereupon the agent, with a slight click of the heels, bent and kissed the back of her hand. This was such a nice gesture, involving not only a kiss but a bow, as a mark of respect. Subsequently, in Poland, I found this piece of knowledge as to what to do when a lady holds out her hand indispensable. Brian.

  944. "Abuzz with bises…" What a perfectly lovely, bi-alliterative, onomatopoetic phrase! Very clever.

    We had the same issue in Venezia – left first? Right first? Always two. I just wait for the other person's head to start veering in one direction before I start in!

    Fun post, Susan! Thanks! ~ David

  945. Once again, you hit the nail on the head. Yes, a sense of humor is mandatory, especially regarding the myriad humbling situations one encounters each day living here in Provence. Kind of like being a perpetual adolescent at a school dance. Awkward, embarrassed, but giving it a go with your best smile.

  946. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  947. Hi Denise, That is so interesting about the Ecuadorian love of the French! It is fun to learn what other countries do to greet one another. Thanks so much for your note!

  948. Thanks, Kathy…maybe we could do an observational study of Luberon greeting behavior. I wouldn't mind touring markets and sitting in cafes all day to record my observations!

  949. Ever wonderdered whatever happened to "air kisses" ? After that lovely romantic blog, I couldn't get kisses off my mind. There were kisses, kisses everywhere flying through the air.
    The air kisses simply didn't know where to land. Should it be the right cheek or the left ? Finally one day there was a big slip and one landed on the lip ! (Apparently he had NO savoir-faire!!).

  950. We'll be in Bonnieux for much of December… now I know what we're doing on December 22!

  951. I loved this article. I have been struggling with "faire la bise" Moroccan style. In Morocco, it's one kiss on the left and two on the right. Until I figured it out, my sequence on the exchange was always off.

  952. The Christmas markets in Germany were so magical when I was there – I went to as many as I could, but I am sure that the food was not half as good as one will find in the French markets! I had no idea that these markets had spread into France through Alsace! It would almost be worth getting cold to go back again!

  953. What a lovely way to start the Christmas season !!

  954. What an absolutely beautiful story… thank you for this Susan!

  955. Speaking of screenplays, this would make an interesting one. Haven't seen anything on French news regarding the closing but a couple of articles dated from mid-November. You'd think there'd be more of a media hoopla. You gave me a flash from the past. I'd completely forgotten having read The Piano Shop on the Left Bank! Must rummage through book cartons and see if I can find it. Thanks for this post and, once again, impressive sleuthing, Nancy.

  956. Hello, thanks for your article, I am a piano teacher and continued my piano studies in France. I am very sad of the closure of Pleyel. I created a facebook page for support against this closure, and a petition is running on facebook. If you want to join us in supporting Pleyel, it will be a great pleasure! Feel free to share these internet pages! Thank you again!
    http://www.petitions24.net/non_a_la_fermeture_de_la_manufacture_de_pianos_pleyel
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Contre-la-fermeture-de-la-manufacture-de-piano-Pleyel/1382015245375970?fref=ts

  957. Susan – this is a wonderful article and I am glad it ends with a note of hope – that the government is trying to help. This would be a real loss for the musical community. I am glad to see others are as impassioned as you! I plan to join the Facebook group, as well. ~ David

  958. Susan, – Your love affair with that beautiful piano was so touching. It was so beautifully written that I'm certain a few tears will be shed while reading it.
    It would be so gratifying to flash forward a hundred years and find that beauty stilll in the family, all polished up and without a scratch.!
    Thanks for a lovely story that will bring back memories for your many readers.

  959. What a wonderful Thanksgiving feast! As you know, I am a big leftover fan, too. I am curious about Brian's plum relish. Any chance he'd be willing to share that recipe?? The rosés look beautiful… as we aren't hosting, I have NO idea what wines will be served but was told they are all taken care of (in a tone that said, don't even think of brining your own wine!). Look forward to hearing how it went! xox

  960. Will read this tomorrow. Am weeping now!

  961. What a wonderful Thanksgiving feast! As you know, I am a big leftover fan, too. I am curious about Brian’s plum relish. Any chance he’d be willing to share that recipe?? The rosés look beautiful… as we aren’t hosting, I have NO idea what wines will be served but was told they are all taken care of (in a tone that said, don’t even think of brining your own wine!). Look forward to hearing how it went! xox

    • It was indeed a feast, beginning with oysters and Towny’s mignonnette and ending with espressos made by my niece (a former barista). The rosé lived up to our recollection of it and gave rise to be a long conversation about rosés in general. Brian, I see, left instructions for his (delicious) plum sauce! I hope your Thanksgiving was as good!

  962. Will read this tomorrow. Am weeping now!

  963. Those bottles of Rose looked soooo elegant!!! I’m keen to find out how the sweet potato pie turned out and would love to have some hints on the ginger dressing for the kale salad. I grate fresh ginger into/onto almost everything, and hope you can share that treat with me.

    • Cloe, The sweet potato pie was the best I’ve ever had. I wasn’t able to create the dark top on it, but it was just wonderful! The ginger dressing was delicious, especially on a salad of kale–I will see what I can find out about it! And, the rosé was lovely. I’ll save you a place next year!

  964. Those bottles of Rose looked soooo elegant!!! I'm keen to find out how the sweet potato pie turned out and would love to have some hints on the ginger dressing for the kale salad. I grate fresh ginger into/onto almost everything, and hope you can share that treat with me.

  965. Your menu sounds divine and your table is beautiful. I'd love the recipe for each and every one of the dishes you described with photos! I hope it was a magical feast and, by some miracle (or slight of hand), there was a verre or two left over for your turkey sandwich. I am Thankful for your post…

  966. Your menu sounds divine and your table is beautiful. I’d love the recipe for each and every one of the dishes you described with photos! I hope it was a magical feast and, by some miracle (or slight of hand), there was a verre or two left over for your turkey sandwich. I am Thankful for your post…

  967. I can address a couple issues raised by the current posting.

    Firstly, Cocoa and Lavender, the recipe for plum sauce:
    250 g stoned plums
    150 ml each of port and red wine
    1 tablespoon of sugar
    2 cloves
    1 cinnamon stick
    2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
    Juice of 3 oranges
    Juice of 1 lemon
    Black pepper
    30 q (1 oz) butter
    This recipe as given is, for my taste, much too runny. Half the liquid, or even less than half that indicated, is ample. I omit the orange juice and the redcurrant jelly and replace them with 2 tablespoons of good, chunky English or Scottish marmalade.
    Put the fruit, wine, port, sugar, cloves and cinnamon into a pan, bring to the boil and simmer gently until the fruit is soft. Add lemon juice, marmalade and season with pepper. Sieve. Reduce, if necessary, until well amalgamated, and whisk in the butter. If frozen, the sauce can be re-heated and more butter added prior to serving.
    This sauce is of German origin and was very popular in Victorian and Edwardian England. You can bet your life that both Mrs. Bridges and Mrs. Patmore would have been dab hands at making it, and they would have been served it with game. It is said that its popularity was due to the influence of Queen Victoria’s consort, Prince Albert.

    Now to the issue of leftovers.
    Having grown up in England, I can vouch for the fact that many of the best English dishes are made from leftovers. For example, the Sunday joint of beef or lamb was made to last 3 days. On Mondays the sliced, cold meat was eaten with “bubble and squeak” made from the leftover vegetables. When I was young I was usually in bed before my father arrived home from work but on Mondays it was a special treat for me to stay up a little later and share his bubble and squeak, still one of my favorite foods. On Tuesday the leftover meat was used in shepherd’s pie (for lamb) or cottage pie (for beef) or, if the quantity of meat was insufficient, it was amalgamated with breadcrumbs and made in to rissoles (rather like hamburgers but with chopped onions and spices). Stale bread was made into those ample desserts necessary to keep out the damp, like bread pudding or bread-and-butter pudding, and in summer was made in to that gorgeous “summer pudding” in which a pudding basin is lined with slices of stale bread and filled with a sweetened mix of stewed fruits, such as currants, raspberries and blackberries.

    Note to Susan from Brian – try plum sauce with crèpes.

  968. I can address a couple issues raised by the current posting.

    Firstly, Cocoa and Lavender, the recipe for plum sauce:
    250 g stoned plums
    150 ml each of port and red wine
    1 tablespoon of sugar
    2 cloves
    1 cinnamon stick
    2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
    Juice of 3 oranges
    Juice of 1 lemon
    Black pepper
    30 q (1 oz) butter
    This recipe as given is, for my taste, much too runny. Half the liquid, or even less than half that indicated, is ample. I omit the orange juice and the redcurrant jelly and replace them with 2 tablespoons of good, chunky English or Scottish marmalade.
    Put the fruit, wine, port, sugar, cloves and cinnamon into a pan, bring to the boil and simmer gently until the fruit is soft. Add lemon juice, marmalade and season with pepper. Sieve. Reduce, if necessary, until well amalgamated, and whisk in the butter. If frozen, the sauce can be re-heated and more butter added prior to serving.
    This sauce is of German origin and was very popular in Victorian and Edwardian England. You can bet your life that both Mrs. Bridges and Mrs. Patmore would have been dab hands at making it, and they would have been served it with game. It is said that its popularity was due to the influence of Queen Victoria’s consort, Prince Albert.

    Now to the issue of leftovers.
    Having grown up in England, I can vouch for the fact that many of the best English dishes are made from leftovers. For example, the Sunday joint of beef or lamb was made to last 3 days. On Mondays the sliced, cold meat was eaten with “bubble and squeak” made from the leftover vegetables. When I was young I was usually in bed before my father arrived home from work but on Mondays it was a special treat for me to stay up a little later and share his bubble and squeak, still one of my favorite foods. On Tuesday the leftover meat was used in shepherd’s pie (for lamb) or cottage pie (for beef) or, if the quantity of meat was insufficient, it was amalgamated with breadcrumbs and made in to rissoles (rather like hamburgers but with chopped onions and spices). Stale bread was made into those ample desserts necessary to keep out the damp, like bread pudding or bread-and-butter pudding, and in summer was made in to that gorgeous “summer pudding” in which a pudding basin is lined with slices of stale bread and filled with a sweetened mix of stewed fruits, such as currants, raspberries and blackberries.

    Note to Susan from Brian – try plum sauce with crèpes.

    • Wow, how fortunate to grow up in your home! You will have to tell me more about “bubble and squeak”!! I have had your summer pudding, as you may recall, and LOVED it. Re the lamb, perhaps you read Mark Bittman’s article in the NYT Sunday magazine about the resurgence of lamb shoulder in haute cuisine–I always think of the English with this cut as I took another English friend all around Portsmouth looking for this cut of meat one year! Lots of “leftovers” to make from lamb shoulder, right?!

      Thanks for including your plum sauce recipe–it was so good. There is just a little left–and I hope to run today so that I can feel good about eating a crepe with a little of your sauce!

    • Thanks, Brian – that recipe sounds even better when I read the ingredients list! I can’t wait to try it AND especially with your recommendation to Susan to use it on crêpes! Happy holidays! ~ David

  969. I am sad to miss a Thanksgiving at your table. Memories of Thanksgivings past, languidly savored there, were delicious to recant this year while reflecting on the bounty of blessings for which I remain humbly grateful. With love and a toast for all good things to find you and yours … always

  970. I am sad to miss a Thanksgiving at your table. Memories of Thanksgivings past, languidly savored there, were delicious to recant this year while reflecting on the bounty of blessings for which I remain humbly grateful. With love and a toast for all good things to find you and yours … always

    • We were sad not to have your ever-smiling face around our table, too! Lots of wonderful memories ’round that table but will you ever forget lighting your sleeve on fire from the candle?!

  971. I went directly to the leftovers this year! On Wednesday I cooked the turkey (dry brine a la Melissa Clark NYT video), made the family stuffing, prepared the green bean casserole from Chef Dave's site and stocked up on mayo and cranberry sauce. On Thanksgiving the turkey was sliced, casserole and dressing were heated and guests made sandwiches with all of the above ingredients! Wonderful!

  972. Your house looks so festive! Beautiful photos!

  973. I went directly to the leftovers this year! On Wednesday I cooked the turkey (dry brine a la Melissa Clark NYT video), made the family stuffing, prepared the green bean casserole from Chef Dave’s site and stocked up on mayo and cranberry sauce. On Thanksgiving the turkey was sliced, casserole and dressing were heated and guests made sandwiches with all of the above ingredients! Wonderful!

    • Really?! That’s sounds great! I am going to look up Chef Dave and Melissa Clark–we brined the turkey again this year with the herbs etc and vinegar and water–we have never tried a dry brine but now I am curious! Our beans this year were a little disappointing–they took a long time to cook and came to the table slightly undercooked! Ah, well….

  974. Your house looks so festive! Beautiful photos!

  975. It was indeed a feast, beginning with oysters and Towny's mignonnette and ending with espressos made by my niece (a former barista). The rosé lived up to our recollection of it and gave rise to be a long conversation about rosés in general. Brian, I see, left instructions for his (delicious) plum sauce! I hope your Thanksgiving was as good!

  976. I hope you are here next year! xxoo

  977. Cloe, The sweet potato pie was the best I've ever had. I wasn't able to create the dark top on it, but it was just wonderful! The ginger dressing was delicious, especially on a salad of kale–I will see what I can find out about it! And, the rosé was lovely. I'll save you a place next year!

  978. Both the main event and the second one were so very good. We all wish you could have been here, too!

  979. Wow, how fortunate to grow up in your home! You will have to tell me more about "bubble and squeak"!! I have had your summer pudding, as you may recall, and LOVED it. Re the lamb, perhaps you read Mark Bittman's article in the NYT Sunday magazine about the resurgence of lamb shoulder in haute cuisine–I always think of the English with this cut as I took another English friend all around Portsmouth looking for this cut of meat one year! Lots of "leftovers" to make from lamb shoulder, right?!

    Thanks for including your plum sauce recipe–it was so good. There is just a little left–and I hope to run today so that I can feel good about eating a crepe with a little of your sauce!

  980. We were sad not to have your ever-smiling face around our table, too! Lots of wonderful memories 'round that table but will you ever forget lighting your sleeve on fire from the candle?!

  981. Really?! That's sounds great! I am going to look up Chef Dave and Melissa Clark–we brined the turkey again this year with the herbs etc and vinegar and water–we have never tried a dry brine but now I am curious! Our beans this year were a little disappointing–they took a long time to cook and came to the table slightly undercooked! Ah, well….

  982. Thank you. I always enjoy setting the table!

  983. Kathy, Thanks for your note here. This article was very rewarding to write. Learning about the Kouguell family was so interesting as well reading about the history of this lovely piano. Talking with Susan was a real treat!

  984. Yes, what a movie this story would make! I dug out my copy of The Piano Shop and would also like to reread it! Thanks, Pam, for your note!

  985. Natacha,
    Thank you so much for your note and for letting readers know about the FB page and about the petition. I have visited your site and signed the petition. Please keep us posted of the progress. My best wishes for success!

  986. David,
    It looks like there is some momentum toward preserving Pleyel in some form. I will try to stay abreast of this. Thanks for your note (and for your helpful input on the post itself!).

  987. The post did inspire a lot of conversation and quite a few emails about the pianos that readers and friends have owned. So much for gratifying than playing video games, as one person wrote to me! Thanks for your thoughtful note.

  988. We have really enjoyed cooking our way through this book but my favorite remains "Patricia Wells at Home in Provence." It is a nice village–I really like the market there, too!

  989. Hmmm….I think you would have to move out of the anonymous category! But, thanks for the note!

  990. Many a time have I realized midway through a recipe that we are missing a key ingredient. That's why the mise en place is such a good idea…sigh, if I only had the patience to do it every time!

  991. Hi David,
    Yes, we do need that bumper sticker that reads something like–so many wonderful meals to make, so little time!" This was a fun post for me, beginning with hearing PW speak and meeting her and doing all the "research" necessary to write the post!

  992. Hi Jerry, I asked Paul about this a while ago and, after established the answer, I forgot to pass it along to you! My apologies. Paul, before I finished my question, knowingly chuckled and acknowledged that most people who know wine prefer the information about which you wondered.

    For people who don't know, you are inquiring about how much wine is made per hectare (as is the custom in most of Europe), whereas in North America, the yield is measured by grapes per acre/ hectare. Paul said that Whispering Angel (on the floor) is 55-60 and Garrus (at the top) is about 35-40. By comparison, Dom Perignon yields are similar to Whispering Angel (i.e., very profitable). Paul said that very few estates have such low yields.

    Thanks so much for your question–Sacha Lichine will be hosting the same tasting in Boston in February (15-16) at the Wine Expo. If memory serves me correctly, it is $35–well worth the price!

  993. Re a tasting with Paul Chevalier, he said that he will be at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival on February 23rd. It looks like the event runs from the 20th to the 23rd.

    Sacha Lichine will be hosting the same wine tasting (as I attended in NYC) in Boston in February on the 15th!

    We are still hoping he will be up in Portsmouth, once it thaws.

  994. Here is the information about the same tasting–but with Sacha Lichine–in Boston at the Wine Expo on February 15th.

    11:00 AM – 12:00 PM

    Chateau d'Esclan – Sacha Lichine

    $35

    +/-

    Join Sacha Lichine, the son of influential wine writer, wine merchant and Bordeaux Chateau owner, Alexis Lichine, for the Rose tasting of your life! Sacha, who attended college in Boston, will be presenting his Provencal wines from Chateau d'Esclans. While dry rose wines have returned to fashion in the U.S., they have long been the wine of choice on the dining tables of southern France. D'Eslcans has a notably talented winemaker in Patrick Leon. Leon directed winemaking at first growth, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and associated Chateaux and consulted on Opus One and Almaviva. He is in charge of the cellars at d'Esclans and produces four unique roses there: Chateau d'Esclans Rose, 'Whispering Angel' Rose, 'Les Clans' Rose, and the highly regarded 'Garrus' Rose, a limited production wine that has been referred to as 'the best Rose on earth'. Don't miss this unique opportunity to welcome Sacha back to our fair city and taste the fruits of his labors in this lovely corner of southern France.

    Wines:
    2013 Château D'Esclans "Whispering Angel" rosé
    2012 Château D'Esclans rosé
    2011 Château D'Esclans "Les Clans" rosé
    2011 Château D'Esclans "Garrus" rosé
    2010 Château D'Esclans "Les Clans" rosé
    2010 Château D'Esclans "Garrus" rosé

  995. Here is the information about the same tasting–but with Sacha Lichine–in Boston at the Wine Expo on February 15th.

    11:00 AM – 12:00 PM

    Chateau d'Esclan – Sacha Lichine

    $35

    Join Sacha Lichine, the son of influential wine writer, wine merchant and Bordeaux Chateau owner, Alexis Lichine, for the Rose tasting of your life! Sacha, who attended college in Boston, will be presenting his Provencal wines from Chateau d'Esclans. While dry rose wines have returned to fashion in the U.S., they have long been the wine of choice on the dining tables of southern France. D'Eslcans has a notably talented winemaker in Patrick Leon. Leon directed winemaking at first growth, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and associated Chateaux and consulted on Opus One and Almaviva. He is in charge of the cellars at d'Esclans and produces four unique roses there: Chateau d'Esclans Rose, 'Whispering Angel' Rose, 'Les Clans' Rose, and the highly regarded 'Garrus' Rose, a limited production wine that has been referred to as 'the best Rose on earth'. Don't miss this unique opportunity to welcome Sacha back to our fair city and taste the fruits of his labors in this lovely corner of southern France.

    Wines:
    2013 Château D'Esclans "Whispering Angel" rosé
    2012 Château D'Esclans rosé
    2011 Château D'Esclans "Les Clans" rosé
    2011 Château D'Esclans "Garrus" rosé
    2010 Château D'Esclans "Les Clans" rosé
    2010 Château D'Esclans "Garrus" rosé

  996. I asked Paul if there would be any tastings on the west coast–it seems that Austin might be the furthest west. Darn! But, you could have fun tasting them with a small group of people…although tasting the wines with such expertise is a real learning experience (and fun!).

  997. Here is the information about the same tasting–but with Sacha Lichine–in Boston at the Wine Expo on February 15th.

    11:00 AM – 12:00 PM

    Chateau d’Esclan – Sacha Lichine

    $35

    +/-

    Join Sacha Lichine, the son of influential wine writer, wine merchant and Bordeaux Chateau owner, Alexis Lichine, for the Rose tasting of your life! Sacha, who attended college in Boston, will be presenting his Provencal wines from Chateau d’Esclans. While dry rose wines have returned to fashion in the U.S., they have long been the wine of choice on the dining tables of southern France. D’Eslcans has a notably talented winemaker in Patrick Leon. Leon directed winemaking at first growth, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and associated Chateaux and consulted on Opus One and Almaviva. He is in charge of the cellars at d’Esclans and produces four unique roses there: Chateau d’Esclans Rose, ‘Whispering Angel’ Rose, ‘Les Clans’ Rose, and the highly regarded ‘Garrus’ Rose, a limited production wine that has been referred to as ‘the best Rose on earth’. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to welcome Sacha back to our fair city and taste the fruits of his labors in this lovely corner of southern France.

    Wines:
    2013 Château D’Esclans “Whispering Angel” rosé
    2012 Château D’Esclans rosé
    2011 Château D’Esclans “Les Clans” rosé
    2011 Château D’Esclans “Garrus” rosé
    2010 Château D’Esclans “Les Clans” rosé
    2010 Château D’Esclans “Garrus” rosé

  998. Here is the information about the same tasting–but with Sacha Lichine–in Boston at the Wine Expo on February 15th.

    11:00 AM – 12:00 PM

    Chateau d’Esclan – Sacha Lichine

    $35

    Join Sacha Lichine, the son of influential wine writer, wine merchant and Bordeaux Chateau owner, Alexis Lichine, for the Rose tasting of your life! Sacha, who attended college in Boston, will be presenting his Provencal wines from Chateau d’Esclans. While dry rose wines have returned to fashion in the U.S., they have long been the wine of choice on the dining tables of southern France. D’Eslcans has a notably talented winemaker in Patrick Leon. Leon directed winemaking at first growth, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and associated Chateaux and consulted on Opus One and Almaviva. He is in charge of the cellars at d’Esclans and produces four unique roses there: Chateau d’Esclans Rose, ‘Whispering Angel’ Rose, ‘Les Clans’ Rose, and the highly regarded ‘Garrus’ Rose, a limited production wine that has been referred to as ‘the best Rose on earth’. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to welcome Sacha back to our fair city and taste the fruits of his labors in this lovely corner of southern France.

    Wines:
    2013 Château D’Esclans “Whispering Angel” rosé
    2012 Château D’Esclans rosé
    2011 Château D’Esclans “Les Clans” rosé
    2011 Château D’Esclans “Garrus” rosé
    2010 Château D’Esclans “Les Clans” rosé
    2010 Château D’Esclans “Garrus” rosé

  999. Hey there, I am from Lebanon, and Saint Barbara is celebrated like Halloween elsewhere. Kids dress-up and go knocking on their neighbors' doors, singing songs related to Saint Barbara and getting treats in return.
    We also plant wheat. It is said that by Christmas they reach their peak if you plant them on December 4th.
    This said, the story we are told is a little different. While the Saint does convert to Christianity despite her father's objections, we are told she goes hiding in the wheat fields at some instance, while on another occasion, God miraculously opens up a rock so she could hide from her father; which explains both the wheat tradition and the dressing-up to hide one's face…

  1000. Hi Youmna, What an interesting story. What kinds of outfits and masks do children where? Did you plant your wheat? I hope you have a wonderful holiday season. Thanks so much for writing!!

  1001. Thanks, Brian – that recipe sounds even better when I read the ingredients list! I can't wait to try it AND especially with your recommendation to Susan to use it on crêpes! Happy holidays! ~ David

  1002. Bernadette Beekman, a TMT subscriber who lives in New York City, just made me aware of what looks like a very cool place–a French market/bakery/restaurant on the Upper East Side called Marché du Sud.

    "They sell a box of calissons of about 250 grams for about $25 here in NYC!!"

    http://www.marchedusud.com/french-bakery-nyc/

    I will check it out next time I am in New York and un grand merci to Bernadette!

  1003. What a wonderful tradition for Christmas…I'm excited to try one of the many Calissons recipes I've found on line. Thanks you so much Susan for introducing us to this beautiful tradition.
    Denise R

  1004. I love calissons! Thanks for such interesting history!!

  1005. I've never before been tempted to try calissons because, like you, I am not at all a lover of anything made with candied fruit. But after reading this post and seeing the superb photos, my mouth is watering and can't wait to go out and find some calissons of my very own! Merci.

  1006. How could I have missed calissons during my trips to Provence? They look divine. Thanks Susan for writing an article about them.

  1007. I just love calissons – and had my first from Byrne and Carlson in Portsmouth before actually seeing them in Aix when we were all there! I think I am going to need to order some for Christmas now… This is a really fun series, Susan – I can't wait for the others. Bisous, David

    P.S. – love the plate on which they were photographed! 🙂

  1008. Such an interesting post as I hadn't heard of this tradition. Weren't you lucky for find them in Boston as it is hard finding some items here in New Hampshire.

  1009. I adore Calissons especially the chocolate ones from Puyricard, there is a small Puyricard shop tucked away in Aix and I make a bee line for it every time I visit for Chocolate Calissons and truly divine chocolates.

  1010. Hi Denise,
    If you make calissons, I would love to hear how they turn out!! Please let me know!
    There are some really wonderful Christmas traditions in Provence (and around the world, including in our own country). I happened to see this good article in "France Today" which highlights some of the traditions of "Christmas in France" and mentions calissons– http://bit.ly/1aVPP1k

    Thanks so much for your note, Denise!

  1011. Bernadette,
    Again, thanks so much for this scoop and all the other good information you provided via email. I look forward to following up on these things!

  1012. Me, too! Thanks for the kind feedback!

  1013. Hmmm…that's a mystery. Although if you weren't near Aix or looking for them, I can see how you might not have noticed them. I am confident you won't miss them on your next trip!

  1014. From Toronto, Ontario Canada:

    I purchased a box of eight Calissons from 'Douce France' on Yonge Street in Toronto: doucefrance.ca. The owner hails from Paris and opened her delightful shop in spring 2013. Everything she sells is imported from France.

  1015. Let me know what you think….have them with a little espresso or a sweet wine (a good Beaumes de Venise). Thanks, Pamela, for your note!

  1016. We just double checked with Portsmouth's Byrne and Carlson–they no longer carry them. But, there is no shortage of their outstanding chocolates! Would you ever think about making them? You would be up to the task!

  1017. You are right about the challenges we NH folks face in putting our hands on certain items (otherwise referred to as esoteric)…but, in this case, even in Boston, it was pure luck that brought the box of calissons and me together! Thanks, Karen, for your note!

  1018. I must confess that I've never had a chocolate covered one but others–whose palates I respect–claim, as you do, that they are terrific. I do know their chocolates (very well!!) although I've only been to their factory! Thank you so much for pointing out that there is a location (even two, I see on their website) in Aix! Thanks so much, Rosemary, for your note and good tips!

  1019. Yet another reason to visit Toronto and poke around Yonge Street! It's been too long since I've been up there! I have a fair number of readers (and relatives) in that neck of the woods–I hope they are reading this! Thanks, Victoria, for such a good tip!

  1020. Idon't know whether it was the delicious looking pictures,courtesy of T Manfull, or the mouth watering descriptions,courtesy of S Manfull,of the calissoons, but I have a great desire to try them ! They are by far the most appealing dessert I have ever seen !!

    I hope to find out for myself whether they are as tantalyzing as they look!!

  1021. That photo of Pal is perfectly priceless. Could he be any more sincerely wanting just a wee taste? I'm guessing that you made the croquettes wrapped with the red ribbon and that cute little tag as well? Of course you did. *#&>% (word filled with bitter envy). And loving the mise en place. You're getting so good at it!

  1022. These look delicious and very much like biscotti in Italy. And I would be right there with you dipping them in the wine. Also, the photo of Pal is truly perfect – and catches her spirit wonderfully. (And her love of cookies!) My calissons have arrived, and perhaps I need to make some cro_____ (fill in the blank).

    Bisous, David

  1023. Very interesting post, Susan, but uncharacteristically you goofed! Rooibos is a different plant entirely from the others you mentioned…good tea, but taxonomically unrelated.

  1024. What a WONDERFUL read! Can't wait to try some of these teas…oops, thes…If I could only turn the clock back 18 yrs, my last apt in NYC was located on w. 69 St between CPW & Columbus…right around the corner from their new location! What irony! I couldn't find a website for their French store. How did you order from them? Being in Malta, it would be easier for me to order from France than from NYC. Please compliment W.T. on his excellent photography! Most appealing!!! and tell him my favorite tea is Lapsang Souchong, so am eager to try his favorite French variety of 'smokey'. Happy New Year!!! xo Clotilde

  1025. Okay, Susan – you KNOW that I know nothing about tea and have never even tried the brew! But this post almost makes me want to. If I ever were to start, I think I would need to start with something completely herbal… Any suggestions?

    Mark and I send our love and warmest wishes for the new Year – if you are around, you know where we will be hiding (with Cubby & Clarence)! 🙂

  1026. Oooops…Thanks, Linda, for having my back. Indeed, Rooibos comes from the plant, Aspalathus linearis. Interestingly, the plant is a member of the legume (Fabaceae) family. It is referred to as an "herbal tea" or "tisane" because it is naturally free of caffeine. Tea, on the other hand, comes from the plant Camellia sinensis (and is naturally caffeinated).

    Thanks Linda!

  1027. Thanks for another great post! Such an art to blend these complex flavors.

  1028. I have always been a fan of Mariage Freres tea–it looks like I will have to seek out some Palais des Thes tea! Nice post! Brian

  1029. Hi Cloe, I wish you were here to try some! At least you know exactly where to go to buy it, but until then, the French web address is http://www.palaisdesthes.com/fr/ . (After reading your comment, I added it to the text above, too.)
    The next time you are in the States, you will have to stop by for sweet potato pie and tea!
    Thanks so much for your comment!
    xoxo,
    Susan

  1030. I thought of you as I wrote this, wondering if you would try one of these teas….we can pair it with foie gras!

    Will you guys be under the table again? I wish I could drop by to give each of you my biggest wishes for a wonderful 2014 in person!
    xoxo

  1031. Hi Kirsten, I would love to take one of their classes. It seems there is so much to learn in order to taste, not to mention blend the teas! Have a wonderful new year, filled with rewarding adventures!

  1032. Hi Brian! I, too, like Mariage Frères tea. Have you ever had a meal at one their Maisons de Thé? We have been to the one in the 6th arrondissement in Paris– a beautiful tea salon with wonderful food. And, yes, do try some tea from Palais des Thés! Thanks for dropping by the blog!

  1033. I did make the little bag of croquettes…because they are so simple and quick to make! Yes, Pal loves them–she's like a cat after catnip! I wonder if d'Agneau would like them…hmmm.

  1034. I know you and Mark would like these…maybe as much as Pal!! They are France's version of biscotti although the cookie has less flour in it (I think) and the orange flower water gives it a distinctive taste. We will have to make some! Bis, S

  1035. Enjoyed this, LOVED the photography. Makes me wish I hadn't given up caffeine (except it made me so shaky, I'd knock over furniture, not the best scenario when working in a museum). For me it's just rooibos, now; thank heavens it has the gorgeous color that I've long associated with a comforting cup. Beautiful collection of porcelain you have!

  1036. Banquets in Indore January 2, 2014 at 8:20 am

    Nice post its really looking very attractive great ideas beautiful post.

  1037. Hello, I am so enjoying reading your posts on Provence as I am planning on a visit there this year. Please advise me on the best markets to visit for sourcing textiles, linen and ceramics. As I come from far I need to be spot on with my choices. Many Thanks

  1038. I will always say "bon appéttit!" – at least when I am not wishing my unsuspecting guests "bonne chance! (Good luck!) I am glad to know that you will continue to wish your guests well, keep you hands in sight, and not announce any upcoming birth plans while at the table. xo, David

  1039. So happy you were able to talk to Françoise. She is a veritable fount of knowledge about French language and culture! And I think she is right — one has to be cautious about judging another's use of language. The main purpose of language is communication. Expressions evolve over time. Certainly we don't use the exact same phrases in 2014 that were used in 1914! If intention and feeling come through, hasn't one's choice of language been successful? Surely saying "bon appétit" at the table expresses a desire to welcome your guests and encourage them to enjoy the meal — a successful and appropriate communication by my standards!

  1040. I'll bring it up at our table on Salter this evening where we will have an Argentinian, an American who has been a recent ex-pat in Berlin, and some Americans who always say "bon appettit" and feel both expansive and worldly in doing so.

  1041. We just picked up a blend of rooibos and chamomile (from Palais des Thés) that is absolutely terrific–perfect for nighttime or, if one prefers to stay away from caffeine at all times, it would be very appealing all day long. Thanks for your compliment, too!

  1042. my mouth was watering just reading this…
    sounds wonderful!

  1043. France is banning the burqa? Very interesting…….

  1044. When I finished the article, I was so hungry for the same meal all over again!

  1045. France did "ban the burqa" (and any other covering that conceals the face) from being worn in public places. This went into effect back in 2010. It was recently challenged by a woman who was convicted for wearing a full-face veil in public. Here is one article about that case: http://www.upi.com/Top_News/World-News/2014/01/08/Challenge-to-Frances-burka-law-rejected-by-court/UPI-29381389212972/

    Yes, the subject is very interesting.

    Thanks for your comment.

  1046. Your comment really made me smile! I should definitely begin some of my meals with "bonne chance" but I suppose that might plant expectations I would dprefer to avoid!! The varied rules of etiquette across countries is baffling enough but I can't imagine mastering the rules of proper upper class behavior at Downton Abbey. As Maggie Smith said in response to a query about the irrational etiquette rules she advocates “I were to search for logic I would not look for it amongst the English upper class."

  1047. Amen!
    And regarding Françoise, I sincerely hope I have the pleasure of meeting her and her husband some day. Thanks very much for your assistance here, too, Kirsten. (As I think about it, I sure hope I meet you in person some day!)

  1048. Do let us know what you discovered!

  1049. Oh my… I wish we had been with you for this! The menu is exquisite and I love the seven vegetables! I do think I had it in Fez back in the 90s. Thanks for the notes on the cookbook used! I would love to discuss the use of the tagine to serve the couscous AND the tagine. When I was in Moroc, I was told that they always remained separate. The couscous came out on a platter, and then the tagine in a tagine afterwards. This was especially important as women were allowed to make the couscous (considered a coarse dish) and men only made the tagine (a fine dish). Have you ever heard that? Bises, David

  1050. Oh, Susan…. you KNOW how much I would love to be there for this festival!! Sigh… Come to think of it, I know how much YOU would love to be there, too! Maybe someday… Bisous! David

  1051. I love truffles and wish I could be in Aups this Sunday!

  1052. Abdirahman Elmi January 22, 2014 at 4:55 pm

    ESCAPE PARIS TO PROVENCE what that mean's…

  1053. Your readers will appreciate "Black Diamond" by Martin Walker who lives in the Perigord and writes wonderful novels about Bruno, the policeman in a Perigordan village. His web site:http://www.brunochiefofpolice.com/

  1054. I am not sure I have ever seen a Corsican wine, but there are a few places here who work with Kermit Lynch, so maybe I will get lucky! The lamb looked fantastic, and I could definitely get into some of that charcuterie!! ~ David

  1055. Great article or blog on Corsican wine. Must go someday soon. Kathy

  1056. I am not sure I have ever seen a Corsican wine, but there are a few places here who work with Kermit Lynch, so maybe I will get lucky! The lamb looked fantastic, and I could definitely get into some of that charcuterie!! ~ David

    • The wine is definitely worth the search and it does go so well with that lamb dish. It is a Mark Bittman recipe from the November 27, 2013 NYT Magazine–there are quite a few that look delicious in that piece.

  1057. Great article or blog on Corsican wine. Must go someday soon. Kathy

  1058. My name is David Howze. I live in Spur, Texas but am moving to a larger farm close to Abilene Texas. I have grown every kind of vegetable there is but have become interested in growing things that usually don't grow here. I have grown Goji berries from Tibet and done well in Texas soil. I am looking for anyone who can send me some Melon de Cavaillon seeds. It is supposed to be a real delicious melon like a Cantelope. I would like to try and grow them here. I have good loamy sandy soil, and it grows melons well. But can't seem to find any seeds from this type of melon that grows in France. Can anyone help me find some seeds. I would appreciate it greatly. I would be happy to pay whatever it took to get me some seeds. Please contact me at Dhowze@hotmail.com Happy growing!

  1059. The wine is definitely worth the search and it does go so well with that lamb dish. It is a Mark Bittman recipe from the November 27, 2013 NYT Magazine–there are quite a few that look delicious in that piece.

  1060. Kathy, Perhaps a tour there?!

  1061. Hi Jennifer, Forgive me for my long delay in responding. All the big market will have good selctions of what you are interested in. St. Remy market is particularly good, as I recall. Tarascon has the well-known Souleiado textile museum where their fabric may also be purchased. Lourmarin, Gordes and Rousillon, too. Le Castellet, a tiny village, is where I found some of my favorite tablecloths…in stores. Good luck and have fun!

  1062. I also made that same lamb dish after reading it in the paper and loved it. I have made it a couple more times since then as well. Claire

  1063. I also made that same lamb dish after reading it in the paper and loved it. I have made it a couple more times since then as well. Claire

  1064. Will look for the E Prove and the Comte Abbatucci here in Provence. Thanks, once again, for the great info..

  1065. Thank you, Nancy. Just ordered a copy from amazon.fr and can't wait to read it!

  1066. Will look for the E Prove and the Comte Abbatucci here in Provence. Thanks, once again, for the great info..

  1067. I've always wanted to visit Provence to see the lavender but your recent posts have inspired me to seriously consider truffles…in the winter!

  1068. Provence in the winter is chilly but the skies are usually clear and blue and there are no long lines people or our buses! Go!

  1069. I thought it was a really interesting and appealing combination of flavors…and the wine went very nicely with it!

  1070. I would be curious about other Corsican wines you find. There are some good roses from Corsica that are available in Provence!

  1071. The festival looks like a real hoot! Pure fun and lots of good food and drink. And, there is that pig! The truffle-hunting dog competition would be a lot of fun to watch, too!

  1072. You and me both! I hope you will read The Modern Trobadors post about the festival–

    http://moderntroubadours.blogspot.com/2014/02/aups-truffle-festival-meet-best-truffle.html

    With the photos, you will feel like you are there!

  1073. Nancy, thanks so much for bringing this book–and his whole series–to my attention. Like my good friend and photographer Pam (above), I am going to order it too.

  1074. Oh my – what a blast it would be to be there for this. (Although I have to admit it looks very cold!) It made me think we need to reprise the Babette's Feast dinner sometime! ~ David

  1075. As an old friend, I seem to remember that you collect pigs….don't get any ideas about Pepette!

  1076. Brilliant idea to recreate our version of Babette's Feast…I will volunteer to go get the truffles!

  1077. Yes, as a matter of fact, my collection continues to today. I don't have any designs on Pepette but she sure is sweet!

  1078. Hi Susan, My sister and I attended the truffle fete in Richerenches Jan., 2007. We came the week before she attended Patricia Wells truffle cooking class in Vaison La Romain.
    The fete was one of the highlights of my many trips to France. We attended the truffle Mass, saw the truffle auction and attended the truffle dinner where every course was based around the truffle from amuse bouche to dessert. We had gotten tickets for the event from a friend who lives in Provence. Magnificent time! I am sending you several photos in an email link as I don't know how to post them here.

    Richerenches

  1079. Wow, Susan – what an amazing opportunity to meet and talk with Lichine. I had no idea he was at Anthony's! I would love to try these wines… I have a feeling they may not make it here but will definitely check with my two main purveyors of good rosés. The weather is unusually warm here now, so it feels as though we will have a good, long rosé season! Bises ~ David

  1080. Susan, this is excellent. Up close and personal. Wish I could have been there. Did you make a rendezvous to visit in Provence?

  1081. Wow, Susan – what an amazing opportunity to meet and talk with Lichine. I had no idea he was at Anthony’s! I would love to try these wines… I have a feeling they may not make it here but will definitely check with my two main purveyors of good rosés. The weather is unusually warm here now, so it feels as though we will have a good, long rosé season! Bises ~ David

    • Well, I suppose we should share with the readers that Whispering Angel IS available in Tucson…at the BevMo! at 6228 E Broadway. There were 6 available (and now there are 5). It is definitely rosé time all year round in your neck of the woods!

  1082. Susan, this is excellent. Up close and personal. Wish I could have been there. Did you make a rendezvous to visit in Provence?

  1083. oh can't wait to try some of these Rose. Can we buy them here in NH?

  1084. oh can’t wait to try some of these Rose. Can we buy them here in NH?

    • I have it from a very good source that there may be a tasting of Chateau d’Esclans’ rosés right here in Portsmouth. Keep your fingers crossed that our beloved wine merchants will have it on their shelves, too!

  1085. excellent info, will look for the wines

  1086. excellent info, will look for the wines

  1087. What fun! I have to try these wines. You are making me a rose lover!

  1088. What fun! I have to try these wines. You are making me a rose lover!

  1089. I am wondering if you interviewed Sacha or gathered your material from his talk at the seminar. You don't say much about Sacha himself. That would enrich to your very interesting story.

  1090. I am wondering if you interviewed Sacha or gathered your material from his talk at the seminar. You don’t say much about Sacha himself. That would enrich to your very interesting story.

    • I was wondering that too. In the photo of you and Sacha, it looks as though you had a private tasting.

    • I was fortunate to be able to have an interview with him before the seminar; so most of the material is from my interview with him although he had a lot more to say in the seminar. especially about the wines and how they are made.

      Sacha was a real pleasure to meet and talk with. I found him immensely affable and gracious. I would love to talk with him again–I have a lot more questions! Do you have any?

  1091. I was wondering that too. In the photo of you and Sacha, it looks as though you had a private tasting.

  1092. Well, I suppose we should share with the readers that Whispering Angel IS available in Tucson…at the BevMo! at 6228 E Broadway. There were 6 available (and now there are 5). It is definitely rosé time all year round in your neck of the woods!

  1093. Thanks. Sacha Lichine was very interesting, funny, and gracious. He made the interview easy.

  1094. I have it from a very good source that there may be a tasting of Chateau d'Esclans' rosés right here in Portsmouth. Keep your fingers crossed that our beloved wine merchants will have it on their shelves, too!

  1095. Thanks for the nice feedback! Let me know what you think!

  1096. There may be a rosé tasting of Chateau d'Esclans' four pink wines…here in Portsmouth! (Or we will just have to organize one!) It was fun!

  1097. I was fortunate to be able to have an interview with him before the seminar; so most of the material is from my interview with him although he had a lot more to say in the seminar. especially about the wines and how they are made.

    Sacha was a real pleasure to meet and talk with. I found him immensely affable and gracious. I would love to talk with him again–I have a lot more questions! Do you have any?

  1098. Lovely photos… one of our favorite villages too! And I was delighted to see a photo of a poster by our good friend Françoise Valenti, whose gallery is on the main pedestrian street. Her art is inspiring and colorful, and her welcome is equally bright. Be sure to stop by if you visit Roussillon.

  1099. Roussillon is such a beautiful village! We have been there last summer for the first time and I loved it so much!
    Thanks a lot for these wonderful memories, Monika

  1100. I had forgotten that Roussillon was the very first place you took us upon our arrival to Provence. We must go back next time, and really take in all of this this beautiful village. It is really fun to see more of Towny's and other people's photos, too. xo, David

  1101. I love Roussillon and your photos are stunning. Just like being there. Taking a class at the Conservatoire des Ocres et de la Couleur would be a fabulous activity for anyone visiting the area. They offer an amazing array of courses on everything from plaster finishes, painting, color theory, to photography for both professionals and amateurs (http://okhra.com/formation.) I have a wish list of at least a dozen I'd like to take.

  1102. Nineteenth-century American architectural and landscape theorists like A.J. Downing and A.J. Davis rebelled against the then-current rage for painting houses white, and advocated attaining more harmonious effects by painting houses to match the local soil color. Roussillon seems to have arrived at that seductive harmony simply by using the earthen materials that were around them in abundant supply.

  1103. Susan,
    This has been one of your best blogs. It's hard to tell where one story ends and another begins. The photos are magnificant ! The warm colorful colors make me feel like buying the box of colors and see what I could do !!
    The winning truffle pig was by far far the star of the show!!

  1104. Loved this village! The photos brought back great memories of our visit there. On the drive back to Lourmarin we happened upon a field of lavender that took our breath away. Thanks Susan for sharing such lovely photos.

    Sharon

  1105. Hi Kathy, It's such a pretty village that it is hard not to have lovely photos, isn't it?! I checked out her website and will definitely stop by when I am there next visit. In case readers want to see more of her work, visit: http://www.francoisevalenti.com/index.htm

  1106. Hi Monika, I am glad you enjoyed the post. It is a special place. What are some of your other favorite villages?

  1107. That lunch was simple but memorable–so much fun! The post was brought to life with some many lovely photos, including yours!

  1108. I would love to take a class there. In the mean time, I am going to have a go with those pigments again…I have a big canvas begging to be brushed!

  1109. That is so interesting! I love your "seductive harmony" description. Thanks so much for your input.

  1110. Would you please paint that pig?!

  1111. Hi Sharon, Did your children like the magnificent colors? Glad you liked the post (and thanks for your perseverance in getting your comment up!).

  1112. Oh how very beautiful! Thank you for sharing your photographs and story.

  1113. Whatever happened to Rose being nothing more complicated than an enjoyable wine for lunch under the sunny skies of Provence? Easy–nothing complicated…..or expensive?

  1114. Whatever happened to Rose being nothing more complicated than an enjoyable wine for lunch under the sunny skies of Provence? Easy–nothing complicated…..or expensive?

  1115. Thanks for sharing this Susan! This is another place in Provence I've always wanted to visit… now I know I definitely need to.

  1116. This is so beautiful – it really does remind me of Burano in the Venetian Lagoon. While not as colorful, the feel of Martigues is very similar in terms of scale. And, actually, it looks like a place I would love to spend a week reading, writing and taking photos… in other words, a real vacation!

    PS – We have bottarga in out fridge any time you want to come for a taste!

  1117. Such gorgeous photos of sun, dappled shade, shimmering waters, and charming narrative stir a yearning to be there on this chilly morning!

  1118. A small technical point…you refer to a church having been built for "the Order of Malta"…[l’Eglise Saint-Géniès, built in the 17th century for the Order of Malta]… this is an incomplete and incorrect designation. I think you are referring to "The Knights of Malta" (short form), also known as "The Knights Hospitaller"…and the 'long form' and proper name for the order is: the Sovereign Military Order of Malta (SMOM). This group is not to be confused with the Knights Templar, which is a different Order, associated with Freemasonry, but which was also active in areas of France.

  1119. Hi Liz, Thanks so much for stopping by my blog. Knowing how lovely your photos are and how good those recipes sound–I intend to make those chocolate cookies soon — I thank you for your kind feedback! (Readers who want to read about these cookies can visit Bizzy Lizzy — .)

  1120. What a delightful town to visit. Loved the bridge covered in flowers…you must have taken loads of photos on you little adventure.

  1121. It is a lovely place, perfect for a low-key day. I'd love to hear your feedback when you do go.

  1122. Of all my friends, I knew that you were the most likely to have had bottraga–but I didn't think you would have it in your fridge!

    Martigues is a very pretty spot and you are absolutely correct in suggesting it would be a "real" vacation!

  1123. What a lovely sentence! It is indeed a very inviting place. This morning–when it was 3 degrees–it was particularly inviting!

  1124. Hi Cloe,
    As I wrote to you, under separate cover, thanks so much for this clarification. You are my go-to person for Malta, Knights Templar, and all such related subjects. And to my readers, THIS is why your trip to Malta should include tours with Clotilde Mifsud!

  1125. We did indeed. My husband also took a lot of "artsy" shots not included in the post! And because it is not filled with tourists, it is much easier to take those photos!

  1126. What a thorough and information-packed article, Susan! Love all the photos of pink, pink, pink! I have to say, I ‘drank the Koolaid’ and, after my first bottle of Whispering Angel, I am hooked on Chateau d’Esclans, too! That bottle (2013) was amazing with the Provençal seafood stew I made. Can’t wait for my next bottle! And more from you about rosés that are trending! ~ David

    • David, I am so glad you liked the Whispering Angel. It is a particularly versatile rosé that is brilliant on its own and can hold its own with a serving of the Provençal stew you mentioned as well as foods difficult to match like Indian food! I will have a lot more to say about rosés after the second tasting and food pairing in NYC.

  1127. What a thorough and information-packed article, Susan! Love all the photos of pink, pink, pink! I have to say, I 'drank the Koolaid' and, after my first bottle of Whispering Angel, I am hooked on Chateau d'Esclans, too! That bottle (2013) was amazing with the Provençal seafood stew I made. Can't wait for my next bottle! And more from you about rosés that are trending! ~ David

  1128. I am part of a group that gets together once a month to taste wines. I was reluctant at first but because we were gong to Provence and Languedoc where we intended to visit a lot of wineries, I joined. I am learning so much about the things you wrote about here and having a great time doing it. The winery part of our French trip was a blast and I am still part of the group, loving it. I am going to look for the rozay wines you tasted. Any other recommendations? Valerie

    • You are so right! Informal wine tastings are a great way to learn about the wines and to discern what pleases your palate. I wrote a booklet about wine tasting and another about planning a wine tasting party. If you would like one (or both), send me your address (privately, via email) and I will mail them to you. Do you have some favorite rosés? Enjoy!

  1129. I am part of a group that gets together once a month to taste wines. I was reluctant at first but because we were gong to Provence and Languedoc where we intended to visit a lot of wineries, I joined. I am learning so much about the things you wrote about here and having a great time doing it. The winery part of our French trip was a blast and I am still part of the group, loving it. I am going to look for the rozay wines you tasted. Any other recommendations? Valerie

  1130. Your posting on Martigues is extremely interesting. I’ve spent a few hectic hours next door in Port St. Louis and have stayed overnight at a B&B on the north shore of l’Etang de Berre, but never even knew about Martigues. Thanks so much for drawing it to my attention – I’ll have to try and go there one day. ~ Brian

  1131. Brian, I recall that you liked the peacefulness of the locale of your B&B and I think you would very much like Martigues. Thanks for your note.

  1132. David, I am so glad you liked the Whispering Angel. It is a particularly versatile rosé that is brilliant on its own and can hold its own with a serving of the Provençal stew you mentioned as well as foods difficult to match like Indian food! I will have a lot more to say about rosés after the second tasting and food pairing in NYC.

  1133. You are so right! Informal wine tastings are a great way to learn about the wines and to discern what pleases your palate. I wrote a booklet about wine tasting and another about planning a wine tasting party. If you would like one (or both), send me your address (privately, via email) and I will mail them to you. Do you have some favorite rosés? Enjoy!

  1134. I would love to do a tour on horseback. Maybe when you're here! And buy some fleur de sel, of course.

  1135. Can't wait for the salt marsh report!

  1136. Hi, do you have any Cavaillon seeds for sale? if not can you tell me were to purchase some thanks, My name is William please contact me at billcctrust@aol.com

  1137. Next time I am in Probence, I would love to get to there! I am one of the aforementioned salt-aholics and would love to see firsthand where one of my favorite salts comes from! And I already have the boots and hat!! ~ David

  1138. I remember going to the Camargue with my parents when I was a little girl, it was as magical as you portray it. I hope to return ther some day.

  1139. Hi Pam, I will bring my boots! let's get some of the riz rouge, too!

  1140. When I post my piece about Aigues-Mortes and its neighboring salt marshes next week, friend and fellow blogger, David of Cocoa & Lavender, will post an article about salt, in general, including a wonderful recipe with, of course, a lot of salt! He is, as he wrote below, a salt-aholic!

  1141. I foresee a team of cowboys and cowgirls, traversing the Camargue to photograph the wildlife and beautiful landscape, while gathering salt and red rice!

  1142. Hi Lisa,
    I wonder what changes you would see now. I bet it was even more sauvage then…not to suggest that your childhood was so long ago! 🙂

  1143. Susan,Ithink I get a good portion of my education from your blogs !! They are so beautifully written..How many people know how the Flamingos get their pink color, or that horses turn from dark brown to white. The Carmague seems to be a magical place. Thebulls are majestic and the figs succulent.
    I do believe you have enough material to write a book. May I be the first to request an autographed copy?

  1144. I would love to write a book on my favorite things in Provence–markets, lavender, rosé, and my favorite places to visit!
    I, too, found it very interesting that the color of the flamingos stems from an algae for which we humans pay a lot of money to get the antioxidant effects!
    Thanks for your nice comments!

  1145. Wow – I had absolutely no idea that there was this much history in Aigues-Mortes! Other than our conversations and brief mentions in travel guides, I have heard nothing of it. And yet it is so touristed? That is such a surprise. Thanks, Susan, for a really terrific article – my silly meanderings on salt addiction pale in comparison to the research and work you have done here! So glad Towny made you the cookies so you could have one with your tea this evening! (Incidentally, they are wonderful with cocoa, too!) Bises, David

  1146. Oh, and Towny's photo of the salt cellars is absolutely stunning.

  1147. Really interesting, Susan! And wonderfully timed with David's post on Cocoa & Lavender. I have not explored the Carmargue, but it is on my bucket list. Thanks for giving me one more reason to go.

  1148. Whoever thought a story about salt could hold my interest so long? Great post, Susan!!! Your blog gets better all the time. Congratulations! MMN

  1149. Hello Susan,

    I have been reading your posts for more than a year and enjoy them enormously. My wife and I spend a wonderful vacation traveling through France many years ago and spent three days with friends of friends in Bonnieux, at the time not yet overrun with tourists. I have wanted to comment on several of your posts but always seem to have difficulty navigating the comments section's maze.
    The post about Aigues-Mortes was the latest to stir my interest. I grew up in a small village in Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean. My village had come into existence after the French revolution when the British, whose colony Trinidad was, invited the pro-Royalist French colonial planters fleeing their plantations in now republican colonies, to come to Trinidad. My forefathers came as freemen with several of these planters and they all were given land by the British.
    The language of the village was French patois although most people could speak some English. Rereading The Count of Monte Cristo recently I noticed that Dumas seemed to attribute the deadly fever suffered by the wife of Caderousse, one of the major villains of the novel, to the dead water of Aigues-Mortes where their tavern was situated. It reminded me that in my village fever and chills were called "aigue" in patois and this led me to wonder if Aigues-Mortes really meant "deadly water" rather than "dead" or "stagnant water.
    It is a long shot but it got me to write to you finally and to say "great stuff" and keep it up.
    George Archer
    Montreal, canada

  1150. Hi David, Knowing a little of the history of the area does make that fortified city come alive! To know that salt harvesting has been a the economic agent throughout its history–long before the tacky stores–is also very interesting. Bis, Susan
    P.S. The salted oatmeal cookies (from your post) were wonderful!

  1151. Thanks Kirsten for the positive feedback. It is a very different area than the Luberon, where I know you have spent a lot of time. And yes, it was fun to coordinate with David's Cocoa & Lavender blog!

  1152. Salt is so common and seemingly uninteresting to all of us and yet its production and the roles it has played in history are anything but! Thank you for your nice feedback!

  1153. I very interesting post of an area I've been close to but never quite got there. I use Baleine salt on a daily basis so nice to know about where it comes from.

  1154. I am fascinated by the use of the word "aigue" to refer to fever and chills, a word so firmly ingrained in the patois of the people, that it is used in another land, across the ocean! Like you, I do wonder what its origin may be. In the mid-19th century, when Dumas wrote his book, there was apparently an outbreak of malaria and meningitus in the Camargue and in Aigues-Mortes, in particular (where there was greater population density) and it would be understandable if people attributed the cause to the dominant attribute of the area–stagnant water. (Undoubtedly, outbreaks of other diseases arose in the area, like other areas of Europe at that time.)

    Does anyone out there have any thoughts on the matter?

    Thanks so much for writing, George, and for such positive feedback.

    Best regards,
    susan

  1155. I, too, use Baleine salt and was interested in knowing where it came from and that the harvesting of that salt has such a long history! Thanks for your note, Karen!

  1156. Hi Susan,

    I enjoyed the Modern Troubadours account of Carrières de Lumières. I've adored Klimt and others of his generation since I was a college kid and their work was considered condescendingly, laughably, horrifically out of date. I'm so pleased to see his work gaining wider and wider recognition.

    Of course, when I watched the dazzling little video clip, I was puzzled by the use of music from 80 years earlier, the vibrant opening of the second movement of Beethoven's 9th symphony. You know me, always comparing back and forth across genres, trying to wrap my head around what was happening at any given time. I love that music, yet wondered why they didn't use music by a composer contemporary to the Vienna Secessionist movement, someone like Gustave Mahler, Arnold Schoenberg, Alban Berg, Anton Webern (maybe a bit too young at that moment) or Richard Strauss. (When I was working with a film company on an orientation film for Strawbery Banke Museum, I had a devil of a time getting them to understand that it was important to have music contemporary to the (many) periods shown – they almost got it, but lapsed on the concept that music not only comes into fashion, but falls out of fashion and is forgotten — another story).

    So, me being…, well, me, I started searching for information, and was fascinated by what I found.

    Quelle surprise: the 1902 Vienna Secession exhibition revolved around Beethoven! Who knew? Apparently it was not so much for Beethoven's sublime music, because that was becoming ensnared in an increasingly ossified Viennese concert programming. According to some academics, Beethoven was chosen for emblematic reasons. As we all know, he was one of the first composers to gain recognition working outside the patronage system of church and princes, and managed to gain both recognition and a following in spite of his sometimes bad-boy behavior. The secessionists used him as a symbol of the artist seeking independent recognition in his own right… just what they were looking for.

    Not only that, but Gustave Mahler worked with the secessionists (at least my hunch in that direction was on target). Given the theme of the show, Mahler's contribution was not his own sublime music, but a performance of the last movement of Beethoven's 9th for opening night at the show! Apparently it was a revitalized and revitalizing interpretation. One must wonder if Mahler's interpretation informs modern interpretations of that monumental composition.

    I find all this fascinating, though I doubt anyone else on the planet would! Your blogs so often send me off on tangents that amuse me on a gray winter Sunday.

    I'd seen pictures of those quarries once before, and thought at the time the image of the entrance would make a fabulous set design for just about any performance of any composer's setting of Orpheus and Euridice, from Monteverdi's to Phillip Glass'. But that's a different subject!

  1157. Susan,

    Vraiment spectaculaire: Merci bien!

    -Henry

  1158. Thank you so much for this wonderful article…since purchasing a coastal vacation property in the US we have to be content with armchair Euro travel for awhile :0) Loving your blog sooo much. Please don't stop.
    Denise

  1159. This makes me want to pack our bags and head for the south of France. However, our next trip to Europe is slated for Prague where our niece lives, works and gets homesick for family. I'll have to live the dream of Provence vicariously through your wonderful blog.

  1160. Hi Susan, I loved your piece and the background info you provided about the quarries and the artists. I always appreciate your well-researched posts. The information from the other commenter above was also very interesting!! I'm glad the timing of our visit last weekend fit with your plans for this post. We're looking forward to seeing this show again in May and sharing it with our groups.

    Kathy

  1161. Susan, what an *especially* fascinating post this week! I'm eager to visit the Klimt exhibition and have this extraordinary experience…This is Google glass and virtual reality brought to life! In Malta we have many used up quarries, as the main building material is limestone…and my head is spinning with possibilities for the future and a similar experience created here – perhaps exploring our Neolithic history! Thanks so much, as always.

  1162. numberedart generates exceptional well-known color by figures systems that are originally give attracted, give numbered with all offers give blended by our artists. A huge selection of artwork systems obtainable in lots of various genres.

  1163. Henry,
    Merci à vous!
    Bis,
    Susan

  1164. You must be a blogger~you know exactly what to say to make one feel good! Thanks so much. Please don't stop reading! Any subjects you are particularly interested in knowing more about?

  1165. This information adds such depth to our understanding and appreciation of the show. Several readers have told me how interesting they found your "research." I am so glad that you let me post this personal email for all to read!

  1166. Kathy, your input was immensely helpful and reflects the same thoughtful and astute observations that set the stage for your tour groups! To be one of the "Top 50 Tours of a Lifetime" according to National Geographic Traveler Magazine is quite an accomplishment!
    Keep me posted on what you are up to in Provence!

  1167. Hi Cloe, It seems to me that this type of show would work perfectly in Malta. As you no doubt saw in one of the links, Culturespaces is now charged with creative these shows–I have seen some of their other projects which are also top-notch! Gianfranco Iannuzzi, a sociologist and photographer, is the creative architect behind these shows! Thanks for the nice feedback!

  1168. Also, Cloe, thanks for the articles about various things French and for the terrific cartoon! I particularly loved the video of the farmers and their sheep heading into the Louvre! I posted them all on FB —
    https://www.facebook.com/TheModernTrobadors
    where they generated a lot of "likes."

  1169. Oh, how fun to see this exhibit! Le Petit Prince was a favorite of mine growing up – and I only knew it in French. I am not sure I still have my copy, or not, but will be checking this afternoon for a reread. The drawings and manuscripts are truly special – this post has made me feel young again!

  1170. I might have figured out a photo of me, too!

  1171. Marc d'Entremont April 8, 2014 at 4:38 pm

    My macho French Canadian hockey playing architect/engineer father would dissolve into tears every time he read The Little Prince to me and my brothers. Nice article!

  1172. A lovely sweet story with an ending left only to our imagine..Sadly mirrored by so many of todays real life stories.

  1173. Hi Marc,
    I think The Little Prince breaks through a lot of barriers. I wonder what parts of the book resounded so much with your father. I am curious if you were moved to read it to any young people.Thanks so much for sharing your experience.

  1174. Hi David, I am glad to hear that you found your book! Have you ever read it in English? I know you would love the exhibit, too.

  1175. Trud. Sometimes we don't realize how important someone is until the sheep eats it. Thanks so much for writing.

  1176. Your post made me look into the back of my hooch cabinet to pull out the bottle of Lillet. About three-quarters fill, I am fearful that it may have turned! The color is no longer light, but an amber. Do you think that is possible? It tastes okay, but I can’t remember if it tastes like Lillet or not!! Some foodie I am! Thanks for the history and also for the info on the upgrades. I think I will stick to the classic!

  1177. Your post made me look into the back of my hooch cabinet to pull out the bottle of Lillet. About three-quarters fill, I am fearful that it may have turned! The color is no longer light, but an amber. Do you think that is possible? It tastes okay, but I can't remember if it tastes like Lillet or not!! Some foodie I am! Thanks for the history and also for the info on the upgrades. I think I will stick to the classic!

  1178. Did you know that Lillet is also Hannibal Lecter’s preferred aperitif? To whet his palate for fava beans and chianti, I presume.

  1179. Did you know that Lillet is also Hannibal Lecter's preferred aperitif? To whet his palate for fava beans and chianti, I presume.

  1180. Karen (Back Road Journal) May 1, 2014 at 9:09 am

    I love having a Lillet as an aperitif and have a bottle chilled in my refrigerator now. I think I will stick with the original…as you say, it is difficult to find unusual products here in New Hampshire.

  1181. Karen (Back Road Journal) May 1, 2014 at 1:09 pm

    I love having a Lillet as an aperitif and have a bottle chilled in my refrigerator now. I think I will stick with the original…as you say, it is difficult to find unusual products here in New Hampshire.

  1182. Denise McMahon Rheault May 5, 2014 at 4:17 am

    Hi Susan,
    I loved reading the story of your homes in Loumarin and the video was really fun. Two years ago we traveled through Provence and the Languedoc to view several homes which had shares for sale. In each case the 5 homes were the grandest in the village and beautifully furnished. Sadly, most were in dying wine villages and so we did not purchase. We had been interested in purchasing our own fixer…but you are right in your statement that you must speak fluent French…lucky, lucky you that you have mastered French…Congrats on a beautiful reno and sale. :0)

  1183. What an incredible journey! The photos are great, and the video really adds so much! Great job, Alex! I am not sure if I had seen the empty shells, if I would have had the vision you had for these tow homes. I am so glad we had the chance to stay in L'Oustaloun that wonderful summer…

  1184. Your Mother's story of missing the chance to buy a California beach house when she could have bought one for a song, we call that an "if only I da" real estate tale. So good for you plunging ahead with your home in Provence. Merci Kathy

  1185. Pamela O'Neill May 12, 2014 at 1:21 pm

    Misty water colored memories… This feels like it was yesterday and a thousand years ago all at once. What a wonderful time. Champagne in espresso cups and coctails on the commode. Got a little weepy watching Alex's video. Makes me want to do it all again. Would we? Could we?

  1186. Susan Manfull May 18, 2014 at 3:16 pm

    I will be in Cavaillon soon and will follow up!

  1187. tres tres interessant

  1188. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 12:32 pm

    You are exactly right. We didn't want to say "If only I da" years down the path of life. And now, while we no longer own the Provence property, we have some wonderful memories and wonderful friends.

  1189. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 12:34 pm

    The vision for the project came from many brain-storming sessions. It would have been so fun to have you and Mark on the team!

  1190. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 12:41 pm

    Hi Denise,
    Thanks so much for your note. You are right–where you choose to buy is so important. You can't take the house out of the village, so you have to love the house and the village! And re speaking French, at least one of us mastered French–my husband–I need another immersion course to revive mine! Or, as a good friend always says, "You could buy another house!"

  1191. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 8:44 am

    It was the perfect Lillet evening a few nights ago–beautiful lighting, colorful sky, and warm air. Living in the same state, I hope we get to enjoy some together some evening!

  1192. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 12:44 pm

    It was the perfect Lillet evening a few nights ago–beautiful lighting, colorful sky, and warm air. Living in the same state, I hope we get to enjoy some together some evening!

  1193. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 8:45 am

    Henry, I did not know that. Lillet seems too light and elegant for his tastes!

  1194. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 12:45 pm

    Henry, I did not know that. Lillet seems too light and elegant for his tastes!

  1195. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 8:53 am

    Aged Lillet?! As a fortified wine, I would think it would darker over time but be fine. I would like to try it. Did you enjoy it?

  1196. Susan Manfull May 19, 2014 at 12:53 pm

    Aged Lillet?! As a fortified wine, I would think it would darker over time but be fine. I would like to try it. Did you enjoy it?

  1197. If you didn't have nerves of steel before you must have then now! I want to see the pics of your new place!

  1198. Mary Jane Conary May 20, 2014 at 1:06 pm

    The wonderful memories Chet and I have of staying in your apartment was enhanced by reading your blogg complete with video and photos. It is a very special place and town. I can understand why you could not resist taking the plunge. We are so glad you went for it. We are spending three weeks in France next month, but sadly won't be traveling to Lourmarin. Next time for sure. Thank you for your blogg that I look forward to reading regularly! Mary Jane

  1199. Pamela O'Neill May 22, 2014 at 4:24 pm

    Absolutely a Monopoly marathon. You encountered every possible twisted Provencal real estate nightmare in one fell swoop! And lived to tell the tale. Bravo!

  1200. Wow – that looks just fantastic. I will have to make that soon! I recently made a Provençal seafood stew (with chickpeas!) and can assure everyone that these types of seafood and fish dishes are perfect for pairing with a rosé. I also can't wait to make the rouille – I had no idea they contained potatoes!

  1201. Pamela O'Neill May 26, 2014 at 6:51 pm

    I wish I had been at your table for this one. Though available, the Mediterranean fish traditionally used in this recipe have become so expensive here in Provence. I wanted to do a bouillabaisse for our "clandestine" suppers here last summer but but found that the ingredients were trop cher for what we were charging. Good to know that any fish is appropriate for a true bouillabaisse, provided it's fresh, with a balance of fatty and lean varieties.

  1202. Pamela O'Neill May 26, 2014 at 6:57 pm

    Oh, and throw Provence Food and Wine:The Art of Living in your suitcase so we can whip up some recipies when you're here in June. Do you have a copy of François Millo's Le Vin Rosé?

  1203. This looks so inviting and beautifully, colorfully like Provence. I am salivating! It amazes me how you have brought this delicious region of France to life so perfectly upon your New England table for those oh so lucky guests about to be transported to the sights, aromas, tastes, conversation, smiles and enjoyment of time spent savoring the joyous occasion a meal in or of Provence provides. When and where in the world should we recreate or try other pages? I bet it was those luscious figs on that cover drew you in Susan. Thank you Susan and Towny for sharing your discovery and bringing it to us with those wonderful photographs!

  1204. Karen (Back Road Journal) May 27, 2014 at 1:51 pm

    That would indeed be lovely!

  1205. Karen (Back Road Journal) May 27, 2014 at 5:51 pm

    That would indeed be lovely!

  1206. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 5:53 pm

    Yes, it really was good and, as Viktorija said to me, it couldn't help but be a party! Well, ending with your lemon tart would make it perfect!

  1207. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 5:57 pm

    Sounds like it is clearly not a "plat des pauvres" any longer. Like lobster in New England–once the lunch of the poor (although recently prices have gone down due to high catches.) Maybe we should go down to one of the ports when I am there!!

  1208. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 6:15 pm

    Provence Food and Wine is already in a stack ready to be packed. I don't have Le Vin Rosé…would be a good addition (if I spoke French well enough–maybe we could offer to translate!). In any case, I like your plan!

  1209. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 6:16 pm

    Thanks for those kind words, Patti. It was a fun and festive dinner. And, yes, I love those figs! (You know me….)

  1210. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 2:17 pm

    I am going to work on that…when I return from Provence in July!

  1211. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 6:17 pm

    I am going to work on that…when I return from Provence in July!

  1212. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 6:23 pm

    Hi Mary Jane,
    Thanks for your lovely note. Stay tuned for a post on "renting the apartment" and another on "selling it". Where will you be in France? I will be going over soon and hope to finally get to Lou Pebre, per your recommendation (and that of many others). I love your painting of a scene from Lou Pebre!

  1213. Susan Manfull May 27, 2014 at 6:28 pm

    I am not sure it was nerves of steel as much as a lot of good wine and laughs. There were some moments though….Watch for the next post on renting our homes!

  1214. I am not a huge fan of fish but you have made the meal look delicious. I would love some of that lemon tart and the before-dinner drink sounds very good!

  1215. Karen (Back Road Journal) May 27, 2014 at 8:25 pm

    I'm not to keen on most fish stews that I have tried but I'm sure it was probably the varieties of fish used. What I do like is the recipe for the rouille made with potatoes.

  1216. Karen (Back Road Journal) May 27, 2014 at 8:27 pm

    Over the years, my husband and I have thought of buying a place in Europe but never did. It might have been a smart thing. 🙂 I'm sure you miss all the fun that was had in that courtyard.

  1217. Lovely lovely lovely! We can't grow any of these very well in our harsh desert climate, but we find a substitute in Lavandula stoechas, Spanish lavender, native to the hottest, driest parts of Italy, Spain and Morocco. It has grayer foliage, and doesn't have the showy blossoms, but has at the blossom tips a cluster of sterile bracts that look like purple butterflies have alighted. We get what we can, where we can. So envy you your imminent trip to Provence during lavender season!

  1218. I really wish I were going with you, Susan! To see and smell the field at the abbey would be amazing. I didn't know the difference between le lavandin and la lavende. That is definitely something to be aware of when buying lavender buds both for their fragrance and for culinary purposes! I cannot wait to see what photos you bring back!

  1219. Top on my bucket list is to see the fields of lavender in Provence.

  1220. Very, very well-written reminder…merci.

  1221. I loved this! Thank you….

  1222. Thank you…wonderful article and the history about the other d-day in August. On our bucket list to visit Normandy and spend a couple days to see the memorials, tributes, the small fishing village and the historic countryside. Yes, the French and Italians do revere their heritage. Our country is so vast and spread out, we don't have the same sense of a collective, shared history.

  1223. Beautifully written, Susan. If it helps you, I am a foodie and I didn't know it was Doughnut Day. I think it is very important to keep days like D-Day alive in our minds, lest we forget and let something terrible happen again. History does repeat itself, unless we keep it from doing so.

  1224. Karen (Back Road Journal) June 11, 2014 at 12:22 am

    A very good and thoughtful post. I've always been impressed when I've visited Normandy about how the French people take their young children to the American cemetery so that each generation never forgets the sacrifices that were made to free their country and Europe.

  1225. Has this market been changed to Mondays? Thank you.

  1226. Stumbled upon your article – Château de Calavon is a SOIF de… Selection imported into Michigan by À Très Vite. If you know of anyone still looking for that wine, send them to soifde.com where they can get in touch with us!

  1227. Stumbled upon your article – Château de Calavon is a SOIF de… Selection imported into Michigan by À Très Vite. If you know of anyone still looking for that wine, send them to soifde.com where they can get in touch with us!

  1228. Wow – that sounds like so much fun! I love all the photos, and all the Venetian masks are beautiful. I am so impressed you posted from Lourmarin!

  1229. that looks like lots of fun- Robin

  1230. La Dolce Vita California July 8, 2014 at 4:14 am

    Really interesting, Susan. I thought saffron was a stamen, and now I know it is the female stigma! I also did not know it came from crocus. Thanks for this post. Looks like a lovely field trip! – Kirsten

  1231. Wow – what a fantastic visit. I would love to have smelled the saffron and you both did. Mark and I tried to grow the autumn crocuses once, with no luck. Now (in Tucson) it is definitely out of the question. The inn looks so beautiful and calm is tranquil is definitely the word. Can't wait to hear about all your other adventures!

  1232. Joyce @ Travel Beyond Paris July 8, 2014 at 12:56 pm

    Terrific post just chocked full of information and what a discovery. Keep exploring and writing, I love your blog

  1233. Hi Joyce,
    Thanks for stopping by! And for the lovely compliment!

  1234. Joyce @ Travel Beyond Paris July 13, 2014 at 9:31 pm

    Hi Susan,
    Loved this post and I'm now planning to add Eygalieres to my research list this fall! Thanks for all the great information.

  1235. Susan Manfull July 14, 2014 at 7:24 pm

    This is an email I recently received: Beautifully
    written and thought provoking for many reasons. Countless times I have
    shared with people in conversation the experience of visiting Normandy
    with my children, though not on D-day. In all the travels with my
    children this visit will always be one of the most significant.
    Remembered for its excellence in educating visitors of the events that
    unfolded here during that WWII invasion (more thoroughly, more
    personally, more interactively) and decades earlier than any in the
    U.S.) and continues to speak volumes of the gratitude on behalf of the
    peoples saved. This point was driven home to the three of us when we
    were each
    briefly embraced by a woman of my parents' age when she noticed the
    tears in my eyes as she started to pass by us. Our visit happened to be
    on a day when classes of older primary school children were there. Each
    student had a small book on various world leaders – Stalin, Mussolini,
    Marx, Kennedy, DeGaulle, Hitler, Churchill, etc. I will never forget the
    engagement between the teachers and the students and wondered if it was
    partly due to the historical significance of this backdrop. A French
    soldier walked with us for a while and explained that it is a sight to
    see the one day each year when American soldiers return and walk through
    the crosses accompanied by school children, usually hand in hand. My
    son did make the comment in the car after leaving – "I don't think the
    French hate us."

    Moreover
    I picked up your subtle statement that here we are with US soldiers in
    dangerous places maintaining world safety while the citizenry reaping
    the benefit are barely affected, too busy to be supportive and choosing
    "reality" tv over being updated on world news/events. So sad

  1236. Irene S. Levine July 19, 2014 at 4:10 pm

    Looks like a lovely market. I, too, am smitten with markets~

  1237. Why didn't I hear about this Event, living in Boston and rto Provence for many years

  1238. Sigh. Just… sigh. Did I just… sigh?

    This sounds like one of those "heaven on earth" moments that will be with you for a lifetime. Lovely writing, and – to Pamela – lovely photos.

    Sigh.

  1239. Next time, put me in your suitcase, please! Heavenly….

  1240. Kirsten Honeyman July 23, 2014 at 3:11 pm

    Wonderful garden sculptures by Nathalie Decoster! Thanks for sharing your experience.

  1241. Certainly made me miss France, specifically Provence.

    What a great blog post. Thanks so much!

  1242. OK I'm ready to repeat this entire trip. The gardens, wine, food and lodging. Sign me up. Beautiful blog post

  1243. Susan,

    Looks and sounds wonderful! Especially those gorgeous green and red peppers AND l'ail aux herbes: miam-miam!

    I'll be in Tours for the month of Oct. and could perhaps make a
    foray down to Lourmarin to visit this lovely town and see where Camus
    lived, etc. Not the high season for les marchés en plein air, I
    suspect…

    Merci bien! -Henry

  1244. So many of the Luberon markets are catering to the tourists rather than the people who live there that a market like this is refreshing. Thanks fo bringing it to our attention.

  1245. The market looks lovely with such wonderful and colorful produce but, unlike Henry, I was not particularly moved by the photo of the confits d'ail! 🙂 I think it is fun to visit different markets just to see what is a little different in each. But Cucuron has my heart, too!

  1246. I have only just recently discover this Cavaillon melon at my local farmers market. Wow! It is divine. My husband especially loves it. You don't have to travel to France to enjoy it. It is right here in the San Francisco Bay Area. You can also enjoy our world famous wineries in Napa Valley.

  1247. Kirsten Honeyman August 3, 2014 at 4:02 pm

    Will definitely check out this restaurant on our next visit to Lourmarin. Thanks, Susan!

  1248. Here I sit with a bottle of rosé from Lauris… but I wish I was sitting in Lou Pèbre drinking it! This place sounds wonderful, and I can't wait to go back to Provence to try it out.

  1249. Pamela O'Neill August 4, 2014 at 7:13 pm

    This was one of the best evenings that we spent when you were here. Our waiter was delightful, the food excellent, and, I'll have to admit, I needed the copious quantities following a copious agenda, summer or fall. It was the perfect repas. Thanks Susan.

  1250. Hi Susan – so glad you finally 'got there' and glad that you and Pam had a nice meal there…yes, we will be back…again…and again…soon 🙂

  1251. Hello Susan & Towny,
    For the Susan-day (11th), some words…
    A good day, first… "Un grand soulagement" : famous "jeu de mots", in french… Great, this new Wine-zine !
    "Tendresses",
    Mumu & Pierrot

  1252. Denise McMahon Rheault August 11, 2014 at 10:52 am

    Ooooh my! My husband experienced the same soaking in the rest room at a TVA station… The chamber went completely dark inside. He was pounding on the door and shouting for us to get an attendant to unlock the door. The only visible attendants were those in the station all with backed-up lines of ticket purchasers. I, being the supportive wife that I am and our daughter stood outside the chamber door and laughed hysterically until tears were running down our faces…it still causes a fit of giggles to this day. (0:

  1253. We are just back from a month in France. I too was amazed and pleased by the bathrooms! Uniformly, modern, even sometimes elegant, clean, well designed. Even in small bistros or in more public facilities. A far cry from my memories of being there as a student in the 60's. And much nicer than 90% of the bathrooms in the US.

  1254. Susan,

    A fun report on updated modern toilets: Merci bien! The immediate
    past mayor of Paris, Bertrand Délanoë, had the parisian toilet
    facilities updated and made them FREE OF CHARGE!

    And yes, they are, often enough, 'hors service'. Can be
    frustrating, especially if indicator light says 'occupé' when it is, in
    fact 'hors service'! Inutile waiting results…

    AND (As you point out): be sure and have your own small packet of
    mouchoirs (tissues) handy as they will, often enough, come in very
    'handy'!

    -Henry

  1255. Hi Henry,
    Thanks for the update. Should you see any interesting facilities while over in the motherland, let us know!

  1256. Antonia,
    Much improved from the 70s, too, when I was first poking around France. Although, I have heard from several people this morning that my take on the "squat" toilet was far too sanitized. I guess it depends on where you are, which is true for anywhere in the world (but I hasten to add the probability of finding a decent facility drops considerably in some countries!). Thanks for your note!

  1257. Denise,
    I laughed out loud with this story! Is your husband laughing yet? Thanks for sharing!

  1258. Ah Pierrot et Mumu,
    I am glad you liked the play on words–headlines are sometimes hard to get just right! Glad you like the WineZine–I am hoping you will have some scoop from your domaine for me!
    Bis

  1259. We can't wait to return! We will have to try again to make a plan to meet!

  1260. It was all wonderful…we could always walk there. Just a thought.

  1261. David,
    I know you would like it and since everything is made from scratch, you could avoid the dreaded g-food here! Please let me know how that rosé from Lauris is!

  1262. Hi Kirsten,
    Let me know what you think. What are some of your favorite restaurants in the area? Thanks for your note!

  1263. I talked with someone recently for whom La Tour-d’Aigues is her favorite. She said it has everything she wants, friendly vendors, and a pretty venue. She stressed that it is a "real" market as is, she said, the market in Pertuis. I will be covering the Pertuis market soon.

  1264. There are many people to choose to go to this market for the very reason you mention. In the next couple of weeks, I will write about the Pertuis market, another "authentic" market, according to locals.

  1265. October is still a busy time for markets. Not the elbow-to-elbow kind of crowds that summer brings but the offerings are still very good! Keep me posted on your travels!

  1266. Okay…I'll go again with you!

  1267. Thanks for the kind words…this was a fun post to write… although gathering the material was the most fun!

  1268. Absolutely…when are you likely to be back? 🙂

  1269. They were whimsical and peaceful, a combination I had not imagined. I think you would really enjoy the property, Kirsten.

  1270. I am all signed up for the WineZine, and now all set for facilities knowledge next time we make it to Lourmarin! As little a thing as this seems, it is a big deal! In the words of Monty Python, "Flush away! Flush away!" (Or was that "Run away! Run away!"?)

  1271. Congratulations on your new venture! Lovely post – and am thinking more and more about the calendar idea as I look at these photos! 🙂

    • I think we’re on to something about the calendars! Of course, the project will require another trip to Provence! Thanks for the kind words and for your comment–the VERY first one!

  1272. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKLnhuzh9uY
    I am posting anonymously because you could possibly de-friend me for posting this hilariously funny and perfectly appropriate video. Had to do it.

  1273. I must be doing something wrong as I gernerally end up with backsplash from the knees down!

  1274. I guess you're not frequenting the right places to get more practice!

  1275. This really made me chuckle! Some where along the line, the Pythons must have shouted, "Flush away! Flush away!"

    And glad you are all signed up for the Provence WineZine. Tell all your friends!

  1276. I think this advert complements your subject so brilliantly. But, because you might want my hide for posting this, I shall remain anonymous. Terrific post, BTW. Cheers and bisous! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKLnhuzh9uY

  1277. I really enjoy the wines from Mas de Cadenet and the minerality of the other wines of the area.

    • That minerality is one of the reasons I, too, am so drawn to the wines from Sainte Victoire! What are some of your other favorite wines from the area?
      Thanks for visiting our new blog!

  1278. Nicely done Pam I’m very excited for you guys!!!

  1279. joan nascimbene August 14, 2014 at 1:11 pm

    Terrific site. And, for those of us across the ocean, is there a source for Mas de Cadenet wines? Berkeley, perhaps?

    • Hi Joan. We’ll have to get back to with that. I know that they have distribution in the US but don’t know about California. If not, they should!

    • Joan,
      I am sorry for my delay in responding and even sorrier to report that I can’t find any evidence that there are any Mas de Cadenet wines in your neck of the woods. They all seem to be clustered in the NY area….but you can have one shipped to you! (See this list: http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/mas+de+cadenet/1/usa .) I also recommend that you check with your local wine merchant–let him or her know you’d like to see it on the shelves!

      Thanks for you kind feedback, too! Terrific photos from our mutual friend, eh?

  1280. Karen (Back Road Journal) August 15, 2014 at 7:38 pm

    Your post gave me a chuckle because I have experienced most of those toilets while in France. The squat toilets can still be found at some of the pull offs on the expressways…new facilities but still squats. I had to explain to a friend that she must watch that the cuffs of her pants didn't dangle down. 🙂

  1281. I was so happy to see your blog about Chateau La Coste. Our landlord in Lourmain, Francois, recommended the tour and tasting while we were there this past May. Time constraints prevented us from taking the art walk, but we had a delicious lunch on the terrace (with Rose wine of course) and then took the cellar tour. It was one of the highlights of our stay in Provence. Wayne http:// nottoooldfortheroad.com

  1282. Hi Wayne,
    Thanks so much for the endorsement of this recommendation. As you saw, there really is something for everyone. I dropped by your new blog–great niche–and, in light of your focus on seniors, I hope you saw that transportation can be arranged in "bubble cars" for those who might have a problem navigating the paths.

    Do check out my other (new) blog that I and a couple of others just began–it sounds like you might enjoy it, too–www.ProvenceWineZine.com.

    Hope you drop back by!

  1283. I will be back! We've been reading your site since our trip to Provence began to take shape in early 2014. My blog is brand new…so it's brief and still rough around the edges.

  1284. And I'll be back to your site! My new blog still has some bugs and is not quite finished–it's a labor of love, isn't it?!

  1285. What a beautiful place to visit! I remember seeing the château from afar in 2008, wondering what it really looked like. The art walk looks amazing, and the food makes me want to book a reservation right now. Thanks for sharing!

  1286. Having been fortunate enough to taste César when I was with you, I will definitely look forward to visiting Château Coussin next time I am in Provence!

  1287. I think you are thinking of Lacoste, where the Marquis de Sade lived for 30 years around the 18th century. The castle can be seen from a distance, driving between Bonnieux and Menerbes, for example. There is a lot of art in that village, too, now with the Savannah College of Art and Design there. I, too, initially thought everyone was talking about Lacoste in the Luberon! Glad you gave me the opportunity to clarify! You and Mark would love them both!

  1288. Going to run out and look for Bulles de Brigues……looks and sounds delicious, and as this is all I drink, am always on the hunt for an affordable and luscious option. Thanks for the tip. By the way, your winezine looks great. Wonderful photos!

  1289. Are any of their still pink wines available in the U.S.? I am really enjoying the personal stories and beautiful photos.

    • smanfull@comcast.net August 25, 2014 at 2:05 pm

      There are “still” rosés available in the States–in NYC, Miami, and parts of California (or at least they were available earlier in the summer). The importers are Eric Cravello in Miami
      ( eric_cravello@msn.com ) and Li Su in Seattle (206-621-8843). I suggest you ask your local wine merchant if he or she can find some for you. Alternatively, call the importers and ask for their help. Let me know what happens!

  1290. I love knowing that they use the juice rather than sugar to make it, and would really enjoy doing a side-by-side tasting of the two different styles. My mind tells me I would prefer theirs…

  1291. The market looks quite good and, while perhaps a bit more utilitarian and not as attractive as the ones we love, it has everything we need! I love Pam's photo of the man in the yellow pants, purple mop, red bucket. xo

  1292. Denise McMahon Rheault August 31, 2014 at 2:36 pm

    Ok…darn you! Reading this at 7:20 AM..ran immediately out to our patch of basil in the back yard, grabbed the freshest tenderest top leaves..grabbed the vanilla ice cream out of the freezer ( amazing that we had this since I'm not an ice cream fan…but had just made ice cream timbales wrapped in tuiles for a dessert recently..happy me)…any who…in the dish, olive oil drizzled, sea salted…did I mention the time of day..oh bother. Veeeeery interesting. I think it would have to be served to foodies. I imagine it served after perfectly planked and grilled Salmon with crusty basil sourdough bread…not for the faint hearted. Thanks as always for sharing. Love you, love the blog!

  1293. I love how both the sea salt and the olive oil transform the flavors of the vanilla ice cream and the basil. It has quickly become a favorite of mine!

  1294. Denise McMahon Rheault August 31, 2014 at 5:36 pm

    8 AM …so in the kitchen tweaking the ice cream recipe…I candied tiny fresh basil leaves and also candied perserved lemon peel that I made earlier this Spring…along with the drizzled olive oil and sea salt…too bad it was 79 degrees in the kitchen from a late night sourdough bread baking session….I managed one spoonful before it melted into a very flavorful creme anglaise…in fact it would be awesome as a creme anglaise with a tiny sliver of flourless chocolate cake in the center…endless possibilities #bakingon

  1295. Reading this one year later… 🙂 What struck me as reading this was the label graphic itself. It looks like stefana (orange blossom). Maybe they knew it would be mis en bouteille dans Orange?!?

  1296. Vincenzo Lo Scalzo September 6, 2014 at 9:54 pm

    I love it wet and fall il love its tender taste!

  1297. Kudos on the new winezine! Always ready to learn more about rose, and this new category is illuminating.

  1298. I would love to try this wine! It sounds like the perfect wine to pair with a variety of foods. Somehow, from the descriptions, I can imagine it with very complexly spiced dishes. Will look forward to hearing more!

  1299. Noticed that you didn't include the photo of you and Viktorija ecstasizing after tasting! I still have some Brigue olive oil. Must get some ice cream!

  1300. Drooling over the pics of kitchen primitives and the olive wood bowls and cutting boards (0:

  1301. Susan, very nice piece and I really like the interactive map. Now I can't wait to get back and take more photos!

  1302. Mary, thanks for contributing such beautiful photos! Alex drew the map many years ago–it is very handy, isn't it?!

  1303. Denise, Based on your vibrant emails and comments, I think we would make a great team exploring the Markets of Provence! (Maybe the Tudors would join us!) Thanks for this note and all the others!

  1304. Very fun post, Susan! And after looking at all the fun things in these photos, I am wondering why I never bought any! I guess I was concentrating too hard on the food, eh? The map is wonderful – and a good resource for future visits! Bisous, David

  1305. Where do you go if you want to buy a fat pig?

  1306. susan! we are Loumarin for the week, and so excited to be at the markets, traveling the narrow roads, and climbing to hilltop villages. You were the initial inspiration for our journey. Merci! carol and dave

  1307. Hi David, We all reap the benefits of your concentration on the food vendors! I will pass the compliments on the Alex for drawing the map and Catherine Stone for making it work!

  1308. Our favorite rotisserie vendor (in the markets of Lourmarin, Cucuron, and Ansouis) would know. If I have their name in my files, I will post it!

  1309. Hi Carol and Dave, Oh, do keep me posted on your doings! Let me know which markets you like the most! Enjoy!

  1310. Je suis d'accord. Although I love the summer season with all the fetes and activity, this is best time for exploring the markets without being crowded out by strollers with strollers and lethal shopping baskets. I can even bring my dog without fearing for his life!

  1311. Christina Jacobson September 22, 2014 at 10:48 pm

    Are you able to remember where I might find these in the market? Headed there this weekend for the 1st time and want to be sure I find them (not sure how big/daunting the market is).

  1312. …another well written and informative article. The chateau is incredibly beautiful and the land beautifully lush. I would really love to see some videos with narration of some of these beautiful locations. Please think about it as I am quite sure many of your followers would be most appreciative.

  1313. Ah, thanks Susan…you start working on them from your end and we'll see what we can do. :0)

  1314. This is a gorgeous property I would love to visit. Of course, I would love to taste the wines, too. I really appreciate their methodology and vision, and that they appreciate the land, the weather, and abide by Mother Nature. Thanks for another great introduction.

    • David,
      As I reread the post, I am not sure I was successful in capturing all that Marie has done and continues to do. (We did not have the pleasure of meeting her husband who spearheads other important aspects of operating an estate like this.) She was really inspirational. And, the fruits of her labors are in the bottles of excellent wines! I know you would enjoy a visit!

  1315. Hi Christina, The espadrille stand is on the place de la Liberté between the Baroque 17th century church and the Café de France (definitely worth a stop for a café crème or a salade chèvre). Ask anyone where either of those places are and he or she can direct you! And, yes, the market can daunting although, now, it will be much less crowded.Have fun and do let me know how you make out!!

  1316. I love your colorful pictures… They make me feel like I am there!

  1317. The winemaker was really interesting. Loved her ideas. Are any of these approaches being used in California?

  1318. I'm guessing that's La Rotisserie du Luberon. Also at the markets at Lauris & Le Thor. (Just back from Lourmarin today, I've found their card in my wallet.)
    Allan B., Vancouver Island

  1319. Wow – what great history about Ott. I love the shape of his bottles – had never seen them before this post. Also, the attached tag with the map? Gorgeous. Rosés are beginning to disappear from the shelves a bit here – you know, not summer anymore. We stocked up with a few favorites to get us through the winter.

    • Rosés , in Tucson, would seem to be appealing all year round. I wonder why they disappear in the southwest where it is still warm. Here in New England, I get the decline in appeal–although I don’t share it!

      Which rosés are in your stockpile?

  1320. Now, if only D. Ott* and Louis Roederer can somehow convince Americans to continue drinking rose after they’ve put away their white shoes post Labor Day… Vive Rose! for year round enjoyment. W.

  1321. Lovely photo of the house in Ansouis. I use my earbuds to "protect" me on the plane even during dinner service and probably have missed some interesting people!

  1322. I am reminded of the poem :

    Life is like a journey
    taken on a train
    with a pair of travelers
    at each window pane.
    I may sit beside you
    all the journey through
    or I may sit elsewhere,
    never knowing you.
    But if fate should mark me
    to sit by your side,
    let's be pleasant travelers–
    it's so short a ride.
    –A Thought

  1323. Looks wonderful! Do you know anything about how the château got its name?

    • Hi David,

      It was indeed a lovely estate. Apparently, I am told, glass (“verre”) was made on the property–thus, it was a “verrerie.” A literal translation, thus, would be “Glass Château.”

      What would you make to accompany the 2012 Grand Deffand Red (that I brought home)?

  1324. smanfull@comcast.net October 21, 2014 at 5:48 pm

    Let’s do a photo campaign promoting rosé in the snow this winter! A great way to chill it–taking care not to keep it in the snow too long–and a very pretty picture!

  1325. On the airplane, I tend to keep my nose in a book oron whatever I am writing. That quiet undisturbed time is such a gift!
    The photo did capture that lovely home in Ansouis, didn't it?

  1326. I like this quote from "Benjamin Button": Our lives are defined by opportunities, even the ones we miss." We never know when one of those moments may come along, do we?

  1327. Hi Henry, I love the poem! Thanks for sending it along!

  1328. Susan,
    Again, another well researched well written article. The best part for me was the vignette about your grandfather…how proud he would have been of you. (0:

    • Denise, Thanks so much for the positive feedback–music to a blogger’s ears! I hope my grandfather–and grandmother–are up there watching…it feels like they are. Did you meet them?

  1329. delicious and delightful coverage!
    Hope to visit on next trip to
    provence in fall of 2014.
    wish we had had all this marvelous information
    last September.

  1330. I have a completely different impression of Sacha Lichine after reading this post. When it’s time to drink rose wine again, I shall toast to this man’s health! With a bottle of d’Esclans rose, of course!

    • It’s always time to drink rosé, Gerry! I am glad that learning more about Sacha Lichine has led you to have a different–I am assuming more positive–impression and I am glad to have played a role in this matter. It seems he is a multifaceted person. Thanks for letting me know! Cheers!

  1331. Sharon Everingham November 2, 2014 at 12:27 pm

    Susan,
    This story was moving in every way. I loved it! The chateau reminded me of the one in Sound of Music. Surely a once in a lifetime experience. Thank you for sharing. (The children and the dogs are precious)
    Sharon

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:35 pm

      So glad to see your name pop up, Sharon! Thank you for the lovely feedback. The photo of the Lichine family is one of my favorites–it is one of many with each of us taking turns posing with the (very accomodating) family!

  1332. A wonderful piece – and so nice to know that Sacha is as down to earth as was rumored. It sounds – and looks – like it was an incredible evening of old world elegance. And when that coincides with world-class rosé wine? I don’t think it could get much better.

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:38 pm

      Well put, David. Old world elegance with world-class rosé (produced by a man with red wine flowing through his veins!). It was indeed an incredible evening!

  1333. Beautiful Susan! What a wonderful evening. We can learn a lot from the French lifestyle.

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:40 pm

      Joanne, You are so right that we can learn a lot from French lifestyle…you might want to add Italian, too! You do a great job creating wonderful evenings, yourself! Thanks so much for posting a comment!

  1334. Bookending this wonderful story between snapshots of Sasha Lichine and your grandfather gave me a good sense of you, Chateau D’Esclans and M. Lichine. And the celebratory and warmth of the “dinner” illustrates what wine and attitudes toward it should be. Just enough technical information gave me an insight to the wines (which I have been fortunate enough to taste). Very enjoyable. Thank you.

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:44 pm

      Win, I am so glad the story spoke to you! Our conversations about wine writing have been very inspiring. Many thanks! Cheers!

  1335. Having had the great fortune to taste Garrus I can truly say it is unique and amazing. I borrowed the old cliche when I tasted it saying it was “in a class of it’s own,” because I didn’t have accurate words of my own or a category to place it in. Learning more of it’s origins is quite interesting. Thank you Susan for a refreshing glimpse of a luscious wine and the story and family around it.

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:47 pm

      Hi Heidi, So good to hear from you, sailing somewhere near the equator! It was wonderful to share that bottle of Garrus with you! And thanks for all the positive feedback! Let’s rendezvous around another good rosé when you are stateside again!

  1336. What a darling experience. Thanks for sharing the loveliness with us!

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:42 pm

      Jill, Thanks so much for dropping by Provence Winezine! I am glad you liked the post. I checked out your blog and will be back!

  1337. Susan, your amazingly vivid tale is inspirational! What a magical evening you shared, rich in history, both personal and historical. THANK YOU for giving us all a glimpse of your enchanted life and for educating us all on the intricacies of these lovely wines! I will surely watch for them, remembering the depth of detail you shared. Miss you and many blessings!

    • smanfull@comcast.net November 9, 2014 at 3:52 pm

      Donna! How wonderful to see your familiar face pop up and with such lovely comments. You knew my grandfather–wouldn’t he have relished the story or, better yet, truly enjoyed the experience himself?! I would love to see you and hear, in person, your stories! Many thanks, my dear friend.

  1338. I can't believe I did not respond to your comment, Allan! Thank you for jumping in with the answer…ding! ding! ding! This family provides the best rotisserie!

  1339. This does sound like an amazing experience. And I am glad you shared the prices, as I was wondering what they were. They are really reasonable considering the cost of other attractions we hae visited throughout Europe! Do you think you will be able to see this next show?

  1340. Coincidence that a number of days later I find Sam opening a Domaine Ott rose for Elena in Peter Mayle’s, “The Marseilles Caper. Interesting how our thoughts and memories weave together

  1341. Wonderful post. Thank you. Vacqueyras wines are a delicious treat!

  1342. A great article, wine and evening spent. I enjoyed the image of parenting the vines – deliberately and tenderly.

  1343. It is amazing how quickly organic wines have taken off and how important they are to the industry. When faced with my first glass of organic wine, I was also skeptical that if the wine was organic, it might not taste as good. What was I thinking? Taking out chemicals and inferior methods of viticulture can only make for a better flavor, one suited to the terroir. I am so glad to see stores like Whole Foods presenting us with many organic options.

    Merci for the shout out, and the plug for the lamb ragù on Cocoa & Lavender! Since we have spoken, I have made it by coarsely grinding the lamb myself, which I love. It adds great texture.

  1344. Thanks for the news…wonderful article… Hope to see you soon.. Bye Conny

  1345. There really is nothing like a good rotisserie chicken! I remember having one in Lourmarin, and Mark does not. Do you remember if we had one, Susan?

    It is so nice of you to acknowledge the hard work of the market vendors. I was thinking of that ts morning when I went to the market here in Tucson. We are lucky to have such decidcated farmers and artisans in our communities!

  1346. Although both the chicken & the roast pork are wonderful, let me put in a word for their ham, as well. When we returned to Lourmarin this past fall, one of the things we most looked forward to was a slice (or two, or three) of the boned ham, stuffed with herbs, with its sweet, garlicky crust. And it didn't disappoint. In fact, just thinking about it has me salivating now.

  1347. Absolutely! I wouldn't let you two come to Lourmarin without having one! And, I happen to have a photo at the table with you, Mark, and the chicken! Mark looks very happy! Okay, we'll have to do it again….

  1348. Allan, I know you must like La Rôtisserie du Luberon as I think you reminded me of their name a few posts back, right? I have not tried their ham but I definitely will on the next trip! Have you tried the ham (or salmon) from the fellow in Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue? I don't know his name but that is all he sells–he is pictured in another post I wrote: http://moderntroubadours.blogspot.com/2011/07/10-markets-in-provence-plan-to-spend.html I just mention him in case you are in that area on a Sunday–no need to go there for ham if La Rôtisserie is nearby! Thanks for your note!

  1349. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  1350. Loved the story of your Thanksgiving in Provence. We had ours across the mountain in Bonnieux in 2004 and ordered a turkey through the butcher shop in Apt. We had a huge turkey… and a huge bill too. Over 100 euro!! Mon dieu! But I do love the idea of Americans gathering together around the world for some version of our traditional Thanksgiving meal.

  1351. OMG! How absolutely beautiful!!! We treasure the memories! I can smell the dinner and feel the warmth of the holiday!! THANK YOU for the post!

  1352. Mon Dieu is right! I hope that bird fed all of Bonnieux!! What a story–I suspect it's been repeated a number of times now, accompanied by more and more warm-hearted laughter as the years have passed! Thanks, Kathy, for sharing!

  1353. They are great memories, aren't they?!

  1354. They are very generous with their sides. I remember getting a chicken but the onions and potatoes were gone! Very nice post.

  1355. Wonderful to hear there are really good things happening on our earth ( “dirt” ). A good wine, a good meal and feel on top of the world!
    Congratulation Henri!

  1356. I had no idea that oysters were a popular Christmas treat in Provence! I need to go back and find your post about Callisons – and the treize desserts. I think I need to up my game this year! 🙂

  1357. We have a little vacay house in Kure Beach, NC where we get the freshest and most delish raw oysters at the local and we’ll love dive..Ashamed to admit that I’ve may have been wasting the deliciousness on Blue Moon beer, yikes! (0:

    • Oops, many apologies. That should have read well loved dive and I may have been wasting….oooooh where’s the edit thingy when I need it )0:

      • Funny….truthfully, my mind filled in the words…as I hope readers do the same when I leave out a word or have an extra one in my sentences!

    • Denise, I suspect that’s a really good combination! But try a cold crispy dry white wine, too! what do you eat your oysters with? (As I reread my post, I was kind of hard on the cocktail sauce… not because I don’t like it but because you can’t taste the oyster!)

  1358. When in Paris in late Nov. .we enjoy the Utah beach #3..with a bit of lemon only. For Christmas this year we’ve ordered islander creek oysters from Duxbury, mass. These are one of the best east coast oysters…especially when we live in land locked denver. I’ll probably drink rose…
    happy holidays…we enjoy your newsletter

    • Wayne,
      I tried some of the Islander Creek oysters at the Head of the Charles one year and loved them! I will have to look for them (or order some again!). I will also make a note to look for the Utah Beach #3 oysters! Good to hear a vote for rosé , too!
      And the happiest of holidays to you too, Wayne!!

  1359. Susan and Towny,

    Vive les huîtres et le bon vin blanc!

    Et le Marché de Noël offre beaucoup de plaisir, me semble-t-il.

    Merci bien!

    Je vous souhaite, à vous et aux vôtres, une belle Saison de Hannukah et Noël:

    Le Festival de Lumière!

    'La lumière brille dans les ténèbres, et les ténèbres ne l'ont pas dominée/ne l'ont pas accueillie.'

  1360. I am NOT a lover of oysters but this article could compel m to give them a try again!

  1361. I have only had raw oysters twice in my life – once at Arrows in Ogunquit (which I hear has closed!) with mignonette, and once in Seattle with lemon. Oysters in the raw aren’t something I am completely comfortable with in the middle of the Sonoran Desert. However, next time I am in Portsmouth, I will have high expectations… You provide the raw, and we will bring some Rolle!

    • David, I wonder what it was about them you didn’t like, especially since I know your palate is much more adventurous than mine. In any case, oysters in Portsmouth is a plan! You’ll leave loving raw ‘n’ rolle!!

  1362. CarolineLongstaffe December 16, 2014 at 5:36 am

    Thank you for sharing such an interesting explanation!

  1363. Sadly our Christmas dinner in Mystic will only have one dessert, but the dinner wines will be from Lourmarin (Tardieu-Laurent Hermitage Blanc and Cornas).

  1364. In twelve years of living in Provence, I have never ever been to a holiday party where oysters were not served. It’s simply du rigeur!

  1365. I'm not sure I could eat or taste thirteen desserts, no matter how hungry, but then your charming narrative and elegant photos make me think otherwise! – Mark

  1366. Cheffian, My guess is you've got a "bingo!" (Noting that the Pink Floyd, in the other graphic had a picture of the chateau inside the circle, now replaced with a circle/Orange). I don't know why folks aren't more straightforward, the truth usually comes out. That it wasn't bio would have been understood, but a potentially deliberate lack of clarity in the marketing not so much… very hard to repair trust. A smudge on such a pretty bottle…

  1367. Who knew reading about sleuthing on the subject of a bottle of rose' label would be such a fun and interesting read? But it was! Great job Susan! I really enjoyed this story! 🙂

  1368. Well, of course I would like the recipe! 🙂 The section about the four mendicants makes me wonder if mendiants – the chocolates with those four ingredients – every appear as one of the thirteen desserts.

    I also find it very interesting that the counterpart of the same name in Italy – Vin Cotto – is not a dessert wine but more like a fortified vinegar for salads and meats. Boy, would I love to try some Vin Cuit!

  1369. Oh, how I would love to sip some vin cuit! It sounds so incredible, and I love the history surrounding it – especially walking around the table three times!

  1370. Thanks, Susan, for this wonderful opportunity to work together! We are going to have fun!

  1371. Looks delicious! Can’t wait to try the recipe and the wine….

  1372. Susan and David,
    Enjoy learning of the new contributor to this up and coming MUST READ wine blog. Except for copious amounts of Rose consumed when in Provence, the better Rhone reds, such as the interesting looking Vacqueyras you highlight to accompany the lamb dish, which we relish all through the year, have for us exclusively become food partners. That for a simple reason – alcohol content. It’s personally sad that for our taste the only quaffing Rhone red left are the Cotes du Rhone’s, and pre-2000 vintage top shelf communes. Blame it on the Aussies?
    Ciao,
    Jerry

  1373. There couldn’t be a better “pairing” for bringing readers information about food and wine. Thank you for joining forces. This will be a go to source for this cannot fail excellence.

  1374. Oh boy — this is a tempting pairing. I’d love to try the pair during these chilly winter days. Thanks for sharing!

    • Jill – let us know if you try it! I think “chilly” for the East Coast is quite the understatement these days! Thanks for reading!

  1375. Susan it is typically a transcendental experience for me to read your blogs as they always take me to another place but this article prompts me to thank you for taking me to another time. Your inclusion of the history of this traditional “brew” did just that. I am enjoying the scenic and historic biographical tours of the wineries you have seemingly hand selected for this project. Would or have you considered the possibility of bringing this to life for folks in person?

    • Hello Patti,
      Thank you for these lovely thoughts. I hope your holidays are already off to a great start!

  1376. Hello, do you know what happened with Joel Durand site? It is closed? Thank you in advance!

  1377. We will be in New York City in less than two weeks and had hoped to go to the Metropolitan Museum of Art… now I know we'll definitely go. Thanks for this article!

  1378. Wish I could go! I will never forget seeing my first Cezanne at the National Gallery in London; Sunflowers, Van Gogh's Chair. Your article was very informative. I learned a lot I never knew. Thanks!

  1379. I love these portraits of Hortense, and think she looks quite patient. If Mark made me it that still, there would be hell to pay,

  1380. Olga, Whatever the issue was, it must have been temporary because it is working now. Thank Goodness…because we Joel Durand fans would not want to be without access to those yummy chocolates!

  1381. Kathy, you will not be disappointed! Let me know what you think! Afterwards, go see the Leonard A. Lauder Collection of Cubist Art, up through February 16, also an exceptional exhibition.

  1382. Sharon, So glad you liked the article and, yes, there is nothing like the arts to inspire us and stay with us forever!

  1383. Not many people could (or did) endure the long sessions Cézanne apparently demanded. I read that Cézannewould frequently take 20 minutes in between brush strokes!

  1384. Hi Susan, thank you for your reply! I was worried, because we Joel Durand's fans too! 🙂

  1385. Mark, I LOVED this video! To my readers: do watch at least the first 20 minutes as the narrator, Monty Don, makes his way to Jas de Bouffan (just outside of Aix) where Cézanne painted many garden scenes. I have never been there but it is definitely on my Provence bucket list now. Here is a link with information about visiting it: . Thank you, Mark!

  1386. Thank you Susan. Now we can see that Joel Durand site is working. Have you tasted the Joel Durand's fruit jams? Could you please advice, what we should to buy more from his wonderful shop?

  1387. I am a big fan of Mirabeau’s “Pure” rosé. I did not know they had a red wine. I will look for the red when it becomes available. Thanks for the post!

    • Hi Tom, I suggest you write to Stephen to see where you might be able to get hold of a bottle or, better yet, drop by the Mirabeau Tasting Room in Cotignac! We thoroughly enjoyed La Falaise!

  1388. What a wonderful story. When I started reading, I kept thinking his name sounded familiar… and then I got to the wine bottle-opening video! Of course! (An aside: I tried it and never got it to work. Have you tried it with any success?) Okay, did they get the Citröen to match his eyes?

  1389. Really interesting article….I love their rosé but did not know the story or that there is a red!

  1390. Your ” Falaise ” is really a fantastic wine. I like it better than Bratt’s and Angelina’s Miraval red.

    • John, Have Pitt and Jolie–and Perrin–released that “Super” Red wine yet? In any case, glad to know you share my opinion of La Falaise!

  1391. Hi, in Joel Durand's shop also some fruits jams, spreads and creams. Have you tested them? Could you advise some of them?

  1392. Hi Olga, I am sorry for my delay… I am in California! I LOVE the chocolate and caramel sauces!!! Also really like the fruit squares– can't think if what you call them. I'm jealous!! Let me know what you get!

  1393. Sharon Everingham February 1, 2015 at 11:38 pm

    I have learned more about rose’ in your posts than I ever thought possible. It’s interesting to know that it’s blended with other wines that
    I have always enjoyed~like Grenache. I hope I’m lucky enough to have a glass sometime in the future. Have to add: Redd is precious!

    • Hi Sharon, I think you should join us on a tour I am organizing for this summer–we will visit several wineries, as well as markets and lavender fields and we will have lots of terrific meals!

  1394. Jill, Do let us know what you think! and, readers, watch for an upcoming article about Domaine des Terres Blanches contributed by Jill!

  1395. I guess I count myself among the fortunate whose climate is pretty much always appropriate for a rosé. But, to me, that makes it no less special. Aside from what I know is wonderful taste (I trust you, Towny and Win implicitly), I also love the beauty of the bottles and the presentation. Classic. I will look forward to this wine becoming available sometime… until then, I always know I can pick up some Chateau d’Esclans!

  1396. Sounds delicious! I love hearing how the wine transformed with the salsa verde. And that it was a tasty surprise!

    • Thanks, Jill – that is just what I thought! I guess this is proof that careful wine pairing can either make or break the meal!

  1397. It was a wonderful place to stay! I only wish I had eaten at La Closerie more than once! This article captures the spirit of Ansouis very well.

  1398. I am definitely going to give both the wine and the salmon recipe a try. Sounds delicious!

  1399. Wonderful article Jill. I’m hoping to read your forth coming book.

  1400. Hi Jill, I particularly like the reds from Domaines des Terres Blanches. We discovered their wine back in the late nineties while on vacation. Nice to know more about the background of the winery. They seem to have been organic before organic was trendy!

  1401. Jill,
    We enjoyed reading of this vineyard, and will seek it out when back in the area in July. I just want to add a footnote on the legendary Eloi Durrbach who is mentioned in your article. In addition to early on embracing a bio-active approach to viticulture, he developed a red (Domaine de Trevallon) that within a short time of its offering became highly regarded and sought after. Because its containing Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon in equal portions violated the 20% limit to Cabernet Sauvignon in the new appellation put into effect in 1994 Durrbach changed the origin noted on his wine label from AOC Coteaux d’Aix en Provence to Vin Pays Bouches de Rhone, which it remains today. A rose by any other name, as it were.
    Jerry

  1402. I loved Laborie’s comment that this isn’t a brand, but an environment. That really says it all. Thanks for sharing the interview, and giving me someplace to go during my next visit.

    • David, you’ll love it. If you can get a nice day the walks through the vineyard would make a lovely afternoon. Thanks for your comment… compared to the American system of labeling (which is an interesting world to explore) the concept that “this is the way we do things” is more a matter of trust in one’s winemaker, rather than a trust in an overseeing system. It’s refreshing, and Laborie’s comment directly reflects this manner of being, this environment. Incredible, right?

  1403. Thanks for sharing the article and interview…such beautiful images and tastes come to mind… I’m hoping to see and sip for myself soon!

  1404. It's so fun to hear from someone who actually uses a Raclette grill. My husband and I were first introduced to Raclette at a Swiss restaurant in our hotel in Ecuador while visiting an American school abroad. We were there with your Aunt and Uncle at the time and we very much enjoyed the beautifully appointed restaurant, the company and the Raclette meal. We tried to relive the experience at home with our family and our own Raclette grill unfortunately our family was less than impressed. The grill has been nested in it's storage space ever since. You may have inspired me to dust the box off and bring it back out. A lovely read as usual Susan.

  1405. Hawaii traveller February 23, 2015 at 2:44 am

    I thoroughly enjoyed your writing and can emphasize with you and your struggles with French. My husband and I have attended Italian language school in Montepulciano 9 times. Il Sasso is a terrific school with excellent teachers – that's why we keep going back. (Well, the wine in that area is a pretty big draw, also.) But every time we go, I feel that I am starting over again. I'm a former English teacher, and I find Italian grammar much more complex and challenging than English. But by the time we leave after two weeks, we are both pretty confident in a one-on-one conversation in Italian. And we assure each other that we will continue to speak Italian when we return home – but, alas, we don't follow through. Oh well, that gives us an excuse to return to the school and the area of Tuscany that we enjoy so much.

  1406. My first trip to Paris with two of my daughters was so exciting. None of us had ever been to a foreign country much less the most glamorous capital in Europe. We had a non-stop flight from LAX. Needless to say we were exhausted. We hit the Parsian streets running…pure adrenaline..and starving. We popped into a beautiful old grand restaurant and the host approached us to ask how many in our party…or so I thought. I had after all two years of high school French under my belt and was raring to show it off to my teenage girls. " Oui trois Monsieur". He rattles off something again. Me.."oui monsieur, trios" with a little less bravado this time. After giving me a disgusted look he rolls his eyes and motions us to follow him. We soon have our menus in hand and suddenly, keep in mind this is probably 15 minutes after we have been seated, my addled jet lagged brain has kicked into translation mode. He had said "hello Madame, smoking or nonsmoking." I really laugh when I think of it now and also think I could probably never make the mistake again because most if not all restaurants in Western Europe are nonsmoking. I am currently struggling with Tagalog. My instructor makes me repeat a new word over and over until perfect…unfortunately it sometimes takes 30 times. She has threaten to hit me with a big stick at times. Ha!

  1407. Having struggled to learn French for the last twenty years or so, I empathized with everything you said. I always feel like I leave my confident, competent self back in Oregon when we go to France and take on a new identity–tentative, shy, a little bumbling. At the same time I think there is a tradeoff–when you can't pull out all the nuanced and complex phrases that you might in English, you have to get right to the heart of what you are trying to say, dispensing with the chit-chat and going for the simple and true. I think you do a great job with your blog. I always find it interesting and informative and am filled with admiration for your work. Bravo.

  1408. Like me, you must wonder sometimes why you do it! But, we both know it's fun, especially with the food and wine…and the beauty of the area and the people and, for me, hope springs eternal. And let's not forget the good stories!
    Thanks so much for your comment!

  1409. Denise, That's a terrific story. I hope you three had a good laugh! Now, you are studying Tagalog?! I had to look that up! I suspect there will be some funny stories emerging from trying out that language! Will you be traveling to the Philippines?

  1410. Sue, I spend a lot of time thinking about those very points. And being
    in that immersion course brought both to light. As you wrote (and I
    alluded to) what we think of as our personality is so hard to convey
    without language. As you point out, though, one can still connect with
    limited vocab and lots of smiles, eye contact, and body language. I
    have a close relationship with a female friend in France that relies
    entirely on the aforementioned and, perhaps strangely, i feel closer to
    her that many other people with whom I carry on long conversations!
    it's all so interesting!

    Thank you for your positive feedback, Sue. I
    still use your "Guidebook to the Luberon Region of Provence," now
    dog-earned and stained. Terrific resource!

    For readers who don't know this guidebook, visit: http://www.provencebyways.com/Index.htm

  1411. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  1412. I hope to see this exhibit some day, it looks incredible.

  1413. Susan, sadly the Philipines is not the safest place for Americans to travel to due to Muslim extremist groups. It's heart breaking because The people of the Philipines are such warm and generous people.

  1414. Oh, Susan! I feel your pain. In addition to the French pitfalls, I think of all the near misses I have had in Italian and German. In the Cinque Terre I had to be very careful not to order spaghetti with testicles when I wanted the mussels. (Cazze vs. cozze). In Germany, an umlaut makes a huge difference between schwul and schwül. One is humid (ü), and the other is gay/swishy/faggoty (u). A caution to us all to be very careful Makes me wonder what the English versions are…

    This essay made me smile and even laugh at times. Thank you so much!

  1415. Karen (Back Road Journal) February 28, 2015 at 3:36 pm

    I'm terrible with speaking even a few words of any language so I try not to whenever possible. 😀

  1416. Thanks for the nice words about our guidebook, and the link. On the subject of language, a friend and I speak French–mine sort of halting–when I see her in Lourmarin, but when I am home we stay in touch by email–she writes me in French and I write her in English, which she reads without any problem. So I get to be my real self!

  1417. Sounds wonderful. I love the description “the red of whites”.

    • Thanks, Jill! It was the only way I could think to describe it! Perhaps it will get some “red only” drinkers to try a white!

  1418. David’s description of this wine is spot-on ! (Is there a French equivalent for “spot-on”?) And its pairing with his Pâté au Thon sounds heavenly.

  1419. how lovely to read your blog minutes after I had put in a request to rent it for a week this July! Do you still own it?!

  1420. Does anyone know if Le Castellas is still open, I have not seen any recent reviews or articles about it. Any information gratefully received

  1421. I'm so glad you explained these lumpy beets-disguised-as-fungus to me. I'm eating one now and it's amazing. I'm in southern France now and honestly thought it was a type of mushroom the first time I saw one in the produce isle!

  1422. Susan,
    You have captured so well the wonderful things happening at Tardieu-Laurent since they began. What continues to impress me is that all the agreements with the growers where they source their wine continue to be done solely with a hand shake. This reflects a mutual trust that is rarely encountered in the modern world of wine merchandising.
    Jerry

  1423. Since I read this article today, I have been searching every wine store in Tucson for a bottle. Sadly, no luck. I look forward to finding and trying some soon. I am trying to picture when they might be on the road to Cucuron, but can’t picture it. Next visit, for sure.

  1424. Susan and Towny,
    What a delightful evening of wine and good camaraderie (and the cheese platter was to die for). While I would be happy any time with any of the five Rose’s you served, I was taken with the Turtle Creek. Before returning back to Mystic we rounded up a few bottles at the roundabout state store.
    Can’t wait to share with friends here so I can explain the lovely circumstances of where we learned of the wine.
    Ciao,
    Ben and Jerry

    • Hi Jerry,
      Both Towny and I thought that Turtle Creek was a real treat. With one exception, we relied on the rosés we could find in Seacoast New Hampshire stores, diligently taking home the ones we weren’t familiar with to try. We were very pleasantly surprised to find this bottle that we thought was good enough to join the pack and its low price made it even more interesting to add.
      The same number of people checked “loved it” for this wine as for Miraval but only 38% gave it a rating above”okay” and 60% said it was “okay.” A better approach would have rotated the order of the wines in the tasting. Being first is tough!
      We will see you in Provence to try more rosés!

    • Susan Manfull May 30, 2015 at 4:52 pm

      You were a delight to have…we will do it again!

  1425. I am going to look for the 2014 Château Montaud! It took me right back to my trip to Provence a few years ago. Unpretentious and very tasty!

    • Susan Manfull May 30, 2015 at 4:53 pm

      It is an excellent choice for a hot day! I just picked up a bottle of the 2014, myself, and look forward to opening it!

  1426. Susan, you always make me long for a glass of rose! Looking forward to trying some of 2014 vintage.

  1427. Dear Susan
    Your post about the Oysters Rockefller hooked me. Typically a raw type of guy, I ordered a box of oysters from from Island Creek and we shared them at a small dinner party last week (along with a few bottles of Rose) . I took a chance and cooked up a dozen Oysters Rockefeller using your recipe; absolutely delicious. The massive amount of butter is sinful, but this is not an everyday event.

    This is a great recipe for the oysters I buy locally (all shipped in from the coasts of course) when cooking for a special evening at home.

    I also took your recommendation and ordered the serving plates…. very nice.

    We enjoy your blog and I’m always happy to see it pop up in my inbox!

    Wayne Tutzauer
    Denver, CO

    • Wayne,

      I am so pleased that you enjoyed the Oysters Rockefeller – and found the shell plates, too. Yes, this isn’t a heart-healthy dish, but a nice treat for a special occasion.

      Thanks so much for your kind comment, and the positive feedback!

      David

  1428. What an incredible time this must have been! In comparison to New York and the East Coast, so few really good rosés are available in the middle parts. I love living vicariously through your adventures, Susan! I look forward to writing about my “War of the Rosés” for next weeks Provence WineZine post – my results were NOT what I expected! 🙂

  1429. Sharon Everingham April 26, 2015 at 4:08 pm

    Susan, Looks like a fun event. I have learned a lot reading these blogs. I definitely need to drink more rose’!

  1430. Susan,

    What an interesting program you presented at our IFG on Fri. eve.: Merci bien!

    I had not indulged in Rosé wine for years and ’twas a pleasure to goûter un peu de vin rose alors.

    Perhaps I will purchase a bottle of rosé in near future. Ça vaut la peine, probablement.

    Merci encore!

    A bientôt
    -Henri

  1431. Susan and Appy May 3, 2015 at 9:40 am

    We prefer the older label too!
    Beginning to pack for France today…!

  1432. Such a beautiful conclusion, Susan: "success is measured in many ways and what nourishes one to move
    successfully toward personal fulfillment, feeling relevant, or just
    plain 'okay' comes from the darnedest places sometimes." A core truth we can all benefit by being reminded of!

  1433. Linda Amstutz May 8, 2015 at 9:39 am

    Susan, I somehow got "off" your list and have missed your posts, but having just read this one on language learning…it was worth the wait! I have been living here in the Midi for just a few days over a year and my language progress (or lack thereof) is certainly my biggest disappointment. My 68 year old brain is just NOT absorbing French as I had hoped it might and I find myself doing exactly what I know is NOT the way to learn…talking to other anglophones! So many of your observations are the same as mine, only perhaps more eloquently expressed.
    I go to two classes each week and make painfully slow progress, and I find that the more I learn the more mistakes I know could be made and so am more reluctant to open my mouth…the good news is that I understand a good deal more…except those (explitive deleted) recordings on the telephone that want you to chose numbers to push!
    So, I have re-subscribed and will look forward to your next post.

  1434. What a great post Susan! My aperitif of choice is RinQuinQuin. Sometimes pastis.

  1435. I'm with Kathy. I love this post. Maybe because I love the apero tradition and my favorite is also RinQuinQuin. Wish I liked pastis, but don't.

  1436. Right on Susan! The apero lives on with us, though we made some adjustments since moving back from France in 1994. If we don't start with Champagne then it will likely be a German Reisling with a hint of sweetness. But as it was during the time we lived nearby my father-in-law Maurice (now 94), he still has the following on his alcohol cart when we visit him each June in Lyon: White Port, Martini Bianco, and Genepi. I still choose the Martini Bianco (rocks), as it revives the memory of so many wonderful Lyonnais meals we have shared together.
    With respect to Kir, it is not dead in France. The challenge is having it served with a creme de cassis with an alcohol content of 20%, which I was told many years ago represents juice taken from the first pressing of the fruit. The lesser alcohol offerings which abound today do not provide as rich a complement to the wine. Now that is something we should undertake – a creme de cassis tasting displaying varying alcohol levels.
    Jerry

  1437. La Dolce Vita California May 12, 2015 at 12:38 am

    Hi Susan – Just had dinner with our friends Paul and Françoise Kinzel. They served Anjou Blanc Thibaud Boudignon as an aperitif. Quite yummy. Thanks for the good article! – Kirsten

  1438. I love how you say that pastis is an acquired taste but you acquired it right away! Me too- I am always amazed when people say they don't like it. But we also love, love, love Lillet!! We are so glad that you introduced us to that (in a previous post).

  1439. Susan – I love this post! I also love the concept of «apéros» – I wish we could get this going «aux États Unis!» Sometimes, you want to socialize «un peu,» but not the entire evening. I think frequent «apéro» parties is a great idea! «À bientôt!»

  1440. Loved the post. How much will a bottle of Ott marc set me back?

  1441. Susan Manfull May 19, 2015 at 10:41 am

    Oh, so nice to hear from a fan…even more importantly, it’s nice to know there is a fan! A 750ml bottle of the Vieux Marc Rosé 52% ABV lists for 44.53 euros and the 46% ABV for 39.90 euros. At the cave, my receipt indicates I paid 37.11 euros (plus tax) for the higher octane version. Hope you find yourself in the neighborhood!

  1442. This does sound like quite a bottle to own! Perhaps when I am there, we can make my recipe for crêpes Suzette and do a pairing test? I think they would be lovely together… À bientôt, ma chère amie! David

  1443. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  1444. What laws! Sounds almost as crazy as Arizona! (We put the AZ in crazy!) I am pitying the tourists that have no idea these laws exist!

    Bonne chance, et bon voyage!!

  1445. Wondering if the markets are nearly as enticing in March — or even at Christmas time? Your market article stirred the senses…I'm catching wafts of Lourmarin roasted chicken here in Maine. Thanks!

  1446. This makes me want to go back to Provence for the French summer! I loved the week I spent in St-Remy, some years ago. I hope to return later this year.
    thank you Jill.

    • Gai, a week in St. Remy sounds perfect! It is such a gem. When you are back this year will you visit any winemakers? Thanks for sharing!

  1447. Sharon Everingham May 31, 2015 at 1:09 pm

    Having lived in Sacramento for 5 years in the 1980’s, I was lucky to have visited the Napa Valley numerous times. Sadly, I had never heard of this winery, but will put it at the top of my list for future trips. Now, I will treat myself to a bottle of this wine, the next time I go shopping. Thanks for such an interesting story!

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:32 pm

      I have not been to Joselph Phelps Vineyards either but, like many of the people who commented, certainly intend to visit now! Let us know how you like the bottle you find!

  1448. Good story on a great contributor to the world of winemaking.
    Thank you

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:34 pm

      Jean, He was an even greater contributor than I realized and seems like such a genuinely nice person. Thanks for your comment! Best, Susan

  1449. This will be my first stop on my next trip to Napa Valley. Thx for interesting view of California winemaker.

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:35 pm

      I hope you find some other Provence Wine Zine readers! Jerrry has inspired so many of us!

  1450. Kristin Schmidt May 31, 2015 at 3:59 pm

    interesting article. Will look for a bottle on my next shopping trip.

  1451. Richard Koulbanis May 31, 2015 at 4:24 pm

    I visited Napa only once, and unfortunately I never had the opportunity to visit this vineyard, but now wish had. It’s admirable that you have recognized Joseph Phelps’ contribution to California wine making, and that you have not let him pass unheralded. Jerry, I look forward to more of your contributions.

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:38 pm

      I echo your comments, Richard, for more contributions from Jerry, and for not letting Phelp’s passing go without acknowledgment from us.

  1452. John E Gulino May 31, 2015 at 7:33 pm

    An interesting insight into one of the greats of California wine making. I, too, look forward to more of your contributions, Jerry!

  1453. If I ever get a chance to revisit Napa I will certainly make sure I add this to my itinerary.

  1454. Excellent article. I must visit the vineyard next time I visit Napa. I look forward to your next article.

  1455. Thanks for this article, Jerry. I somehow missed Phelps’ passing – such a loss for the wine world! You hit the nail on the head whe you talked about trust: you always could trust Phelps.

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:40 pm

      David,
      In a sea of many labels, it’s always nice to see Phelps! There is a lot of history behind that label!

  1456. Bonjour Jerry,
    Thanks for sharing with us Joseph Phelps contribution to the California wine.
    Will buy a bottle next time I see one of these labels!
    Looking forward for your next input on this blog!

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:46 pm

      Jacques,
      Shall we have a dinner party with Monsieur Phelps? There is much to choose from in his collection.

  1457. Great article about a great man. I share your love for the Napa Valley and Joseph Phelps Vineyards. We will have to make a visit next time you are in the area!

    • Sam,
      You will surely hear from me before I come back to the wine country. I envy your daily commute when passing such wonderful vineyard sites.
      Jerry

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:46 pm

      There are a lot of Jospeph Phelps fans!

  1458. Contributor Clark has for years done his best to guide my oenophilic excursions. And now I can read such interesting commentary as this. Keep it up!

    Herm

  1459. Jerry – Thanks for this wonderful article. I too am only vaguely familiar with all that Napa has to offer but, as a consequence of this article, will be sure to make this a destination point the next time in wine country. Enjoyed your first contribution and encourage more.

    • Hi Ted, Thanks for taking the time to comment. Jerry promises to continue to contribute to Provence WineZine and I, too, look forward to reading more!

  1460. Robert Buongiorno June 1, 2015 at 11:33 am

    Wonderfully written! Winemaking has lost one of the great ones.

  1461. Tres bon article de revue Jerry! I missed Joseph Phelps passing. As a Napa Valley red wine enthusiast, Joseph Phelps Cabernet is always wonderful.

    • Susan Manfull June 1, 2015 at 11:48 pm

      Jerry has inspired so many of us to try Phelps’ wines–I will look for the Cabernet!

  1462. Thank you, Jerry! I am ready for the journey to Phelps Vineyards and a tasting. Reading your article first thing in the morning has my head spinning about the pleasures of wine, and the possibilities of having it with breakfast. Again, thank you for the inspiration and thoughts about things that continue to make this world more beautiful.

    • Wine with breakfast! Is that some kind of Cajun thing? Seriously though Karen, you would absolutely love sitting on the Phelps terrace and reflecting upon nature’s beauty – with a glass of wine of course. But I don’t think that Phelps will be pouring too early in the day.

      • What do you think is the best time for tasting, Jerry?

        • If we use my one visit only scenario, then I would be starting the day with breakfast in San Francisco, heading out around 9 am. Shortly after crossing the Golden Gate I leave the highway to work up to Muir Woods, which as I noted is always a stop before hitting Napa or Sonoma. If you talk of peace and tranquility, the Redwood forested glade borders on a different time and world. I could be there anywhere from an hour to three, if a little hike is included. When I get to Napa country it likely time for lunch. My preferred stop for a bite is Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. So, all of this to answer that about 2:00 pm to be seated with a glass on the Phelps terrace. After that its on to another local vineyard, or cross over to Sonoma for one stop before heading back to San Fran.

  1463. Nicely written article. I am familiar with the Phelps name, but have not yet tried it myself. With so many wines to choose from, it’s nice to get a good recommendation — I will give it a try next. Thank you Jerry!

  1464. Great article Jerry Clark – hope to see more – your expertise is legendary

    • I don’t know about legendary, but I certainly have pulled my share of corks.

      • Susan Manfull June 5, 2015 at 8:20 am

        As Alexis Lichine famously said, “If you want to learn about wine, buy a corkscrew and use it.

    • Susan Manfull June 5, 2015 at 8:20 am

      There is another Jerry Clark piece in the pipeline–stay tuned!

  1465. David,
    You are so right. Provence white is like finding Greek anything. But definitely worth the look. Val Joanis near Pertuis does a very good, and reasonably priced viognier, and I am fairly certain it can be found in the US. On occasion a good merchant will stock Cassis whites, which are very fine indeed. I will look around my neighborhood for les Fouques.
    Jerry

    • Jerry,
      I really wish more Provençal whites were readily available – there are so few here in Tucson that it is pretty pathetic! The viognier you mentioned sounds really good – I will have to take a look for it, as well. Hope you are able to find Les Fouques!
      David

    • Susan Manfull June 8, 2015 at 10:17 pm

      We haven’t been by Val Joanis in a few years but will make a point to stop this summer!

      • This lovely property is under new ownership. Wines are as good as ever, but changes include a slight charge to visit the lovely gardens. They are also doing an outdoor film showing from time to time.

  1466. Thx for the recommendation. It is always so hard (scary!) to think of what might go well with curry. Especially thx for the substitutions available.

    • Susan Manfull June 8, 2015 at 10:16 pm

      We’d love to know what you find and how it works!

    • Curry is a tough one, but I think you will find this works nicely with a very light curry. I think a sturdier viognier would work nicely with more intense curries. Thanks for reading!

  1467. I enjoy reading about pioneers in most any industry. A great tribute to Mr. Phelps and his labor of love. This weekend at the wine store, Phelps it is!

    • There have been a great number of pioneers in Napa over the past 150+ years, and it is worth recognizing how the wine reputation in the valley grew through the efforts of men like Joe Phelps.

      • Planning a small group tour?! I am smiling at the idea you have eloquently presented. Keep the wine stories flowing, my contemplative spirit can only handle living vicariously.

        • Karen,
          Actually I should be. Its been a couple of years since I have been in California wine country. In the meantime I have the North Fork of Long Island just a ferry ride away.
          Jerry

  1468. A great tribute to a wine pioneer. Proof that wine knowledge knows no borders.

    • Yes, its truly a global culture, and with very ancient roots. I am currently reading of the things found by Howard Carter in 1922 when he uncovered Tutankhamon’s tomb. These included wine amphorae that noted vintage dates, vineyards and winemakers. Perhaps I should bury a time capsule with the best of modern Napa, which would include Phelps 1974 Insignia.

  1469. To all fans of Occitan, here is a link to a brand new anthology of Occitan Literature, Grains of Gold (bilingual text, 775 pages, from 10th to 21st centuries!)

    http://www.francisboutle.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=119

  1470. Karen (Back Road Journal) June 27, 2015 at 10:14 am

    I had to chuckle about your not being able to back up…you were lucky there wasn't a fine for that. 🙂

  1471. mary norcross July 5, 2015 at 3:24 pm

    I wish I had visited this Museum! Thanks for sharing the extra
    ordinary passion of this man and his family.

  1472. Homme grenouille du futur: Bien sûr, pourquoi pas?

    Merveilleuses danseuses polinisiennes!

    Musée fascinant!

    Merci, Suzanne!

    Ciao,

    Henri

  1473. Hi Susan, I always think the world needs these, well what shall I say "eccentric people" who go against the grain, or some may say, against the norm, not only do I like what they do but in that they start to show us how their mind works, I also admire them, thanks for the article
    Kind regards
    Paul

  1474. I've always wanted to go to this museum, too, but never have managed it.
    I like what you said about the museum offering a window into the heart
    of one man and his passions. We'll be over in the fall and will make a
    point of finally getting there.

  1475. Karen (Back Road Journal) July 7, 2015 at 7:29 pm

    Quirky, eclectic, unusual, it really doesn't matter what people call a museum like this. It is nice that it was created and still shared by his family.

  1476. I agree. I would only add that the exhibitions best come to life when his family accompanies you. They are always there so visitors can get the story of Monsieur Mazoyer and it is that that make the visit worthwhile.

  1477. If you ever get down this way, I'd love to hear your thoughts, Henri!

  1478. That is exactly what I think. I am told that people around here thought Monsieur Mazoyer was crazy but maybe a few people said to be "crazy" keep the world in perspective! (I underscore that "crazy" is in quotes!)

  1479. Hi Sue, I would love to hear your thoughts–we really need to meet sometime! Make sure to ask for Nicole to accompany you!

  1480. I agree. The love for this man was clear. I am so glad I went…finally!

  1481. I had crêpes Suzette for the second time in as many weeks, here in Provence. They were excellent but not nearly as good as David’s. (I am not exaggerating or falsely flattering David to ensure he keeps writing his column…I loved David’s for exactly the same reasons he altered his original recipe–to make them a little less sweet and not drowning in butter, as they often are. La louche au Beurre, in Lourmarin is great when David isn’t visiting, though! And I hasten to add that the Domaine Ott Marc was a terrific match!

  1482. Ingrid Krieger July 10, 2015 at 7:57 pm

    These look so good! If I can’t find the Marc, I will make the crepes and enjoy with nice cognac. Thanks for sharing!

  1483. I loved this, Jerry – the use of A Funny Thing and I, Claudius (or as I once called it, “I, Clavdivs” from the PBS packaging) was perfect. We very much enjoyed exploring the Roman archaeology in the region and agree with you – several days are necessary to see even some of what is offed. Loved the illustrations, too – thanks to Mike for sharing them!

    • I needed images of the three “borscht belt” comics that romped through Funny Thing to keep me sane while reading I, Claudius. What a crowd those Roman Royals were, eh. But I take my hat off to them as builders.

  1484. What a great experience, Susan! I don't even remember seeing this museum in Ansouis but, then again, was obsessed that day with a very special birthday lunch! I hope to get back so I can visit this place!

  1485. How interesting; thanks for this information. The incredible illustrations are a delight.

    • So much to see and learn roaming around Provence, and never far from some wonderful food and wine to sustain the traveling.

  1486. Jerry,
    I loved your column, especially the illustrations and reference to A Funny Thing Happened. When I saw it, I was too young to appreciate the history behind the characters. If you really have been rereading I, Claudius, I strongly recommend you see the old BBC dramatization of it, available on Apple TV and such—fabulous production with, if I recall, Jeremy Irons as Caligula, Patrick Stewart as Sejanus, and Derek Jacobi as Claudius. Also, if you haven’t and are up for a good, long read, Colleen McCullough’s (Thorn Birds author) magnum opus about the end of the republic and beginnings of empire:
    The First Man in Rome
    The Grass Crown
    Fortune’s Favorites
    Caesar’s Women
    Caesar: Let the Dice Fly
    The October Horse
    Anthony and Cleopatra
    Meticulously researched and much of the action around and about the areas you’re writing about, wines, feasting, great estates, and conquest. These are among the most enjoyable books I’ve ever read, probably the best historical fiction. I’ll never see any Roman sites still standing in Europe in the same way.
    Nice to envision you enjoying the same countryside a couple of millennia later with similarly delicious wines.

    • Jenny,
      This was my first reading of I, Claudius. I chose it based on hearsay over the years, and also because he was born in Lyon, where my story begins (and where I lived from 1988-94). I will catch up one day with the BBC series. I had no idea that Irons portrayed Caligula. It will be fun to contrast him in an early evil role, and the aged chairman in the film Margin Call.
      Thank you also to bring to my attention McCullough’s breadth of work on the Romans. I really want to continue delving into their civilization.

  1487. Je serais ravi de visiter. Ce doit être un endroit merveilleux. Merci, Pierre!

    • Merci Jill ! Nous irons ensemble, et le plus tôt sera le mieux…
      Pierre,
      serviteur.

  1488. Pamela O'Neill July 20, 2015 at 3:21 pm

    Oops, don't think I have extra bulbls in my new car – thanks for reminding me. Never did buy the breathalyser. Holy conflict of interest, the national sport.

  1489. Pamela O'Neill July 20, 2015 at 3:38 pm

    Well done, Susan. But then, again, you have always been a student of the apéritif!

  1490. C’est bien, Pierre, tu aurais pu être un grand poète… alsacien !!! Tendres pensées, Roger & Marie-France Rothan

  1491. Pierre Schott July 20, 2015 at 6:51 pm

    Merci mes chéris ! Il n’était pas trop tard, mais il était temps… d’avoir 20 sur VIN ! Pierrot

  1492. Marina Haccoun-Levikoff July 20, 2015 at 6:59 pm

    Qu’une envie débordante : de se précipiter sur le lieu, goûter ces breuvages du soleil !!!

    Bises,
    Marina

  1493. Roger & Marie-Françoise Rothan July 20, 2015 at 7:04 pm

    C’est bien, Pierre, tu aurais pu être un grand poète… alsacien !!! Tendres pensées, Roger & Marie-Françoise, Cadaqués

    • Pierre Schott July 20, 2015 at 7:18 pm

      Bon d’accord : à la Dali (Cadaqués) :
      “espa” – d’accord, mais “gnole” – pourquoi ?! (humour)
      Pierrot

  1494. You are a funny man, Jerry. I really enjoyed this article, and the illustrations are a perfect accompaniment.

    • Pamela,
      So glad you enjoyed it. I too love the illustrations, and hope they encourage readers to take in some of what early civilizations left behind in old Gaul. For example, just before returning home last week we went to visit the Franco-American Museum at the lovely Chateau of Blerancourt (World War I battle country, in Aisne Department) The museum has been going through a long renovation process, dating back to 2005, and remains closed. One of the complications is that they uncovered remnants of a Gallo/Roman aqueduct and must now trod very carefully. But the American Gardens (supplied almost 100% with plants from the US) remain open, and was well worth the visit.

  1495. Hello, I recently discovered your blog and LOVE IT! Thank you for all the amazing tips. We will be renting a place just west of Menerbes the first week in August. Do you have any dinner recommendations over that way? We only have one night out (date night, when my in-laws will be watching our 1 year old) and would love somewhere special for my husband and me! Thank you so much!

  1496. You are such a charmer, even with your writing. Stop seducing me! I love reading what you have to say about wine. You make my mouth water, and I get wild ideas about taking off to seek wine adventures. My imagination soars while my lips desire wine. Nope, I am staying home with my memories of last’s night cabernet. Your stories entices one to love wine, everything about wine, from selecting, opening, pouring, holding the glass, lifting it to the lips, and then that first taste. Should I go on? Thank you for the pleasure of your stories!

    • The wine country will be ready to receive you whenever you get there. But Provence is unique to others, if for no other reason than the history that surrounds it. The mind turns over and over, imagining the pleasure and sustenance Provencal wines provided personages from Abelard and Heloise to Marion Cotillard and Russell Crowe.

      • This reminds me how fortunate I am to have been on that same journey so many times over the years. Although as I remember it, the theme was more “are we there yet??” and “it wasn’t me!”. Thank you for sharing this perspective, which is so much more cultured and interesting than that of a 16 yr old ;).

        • Just think of when you will make that trip on your own. Now you have a list of spots to visit (and wines to taste).

  1497. Hi Susan. I would love to go to Les Pastras with you next time you’re here in Provence. In the meantime, I will start training puppy Lucas, with the truffe you stashed in my freezer, so he’s ready for the adventure!

  1498. Hi Susan

    So glad you and your group were able to visit Les Pastras. I really enjoyed the truffle hunt and would recommend it to anyone traveling in the area during the summer. Bought some truffle oil and salt from them and still using it on my morning scabbled eggs. Lovely memory of my experience. Thanks for the post and sharing their story. Germaine

    • Thanks for recommending Les Pastras so highly. I am so very glad we went! I came home with the truffle oil and salt, too, and might just sprinkle a little on some eggs tomorrow! Hope to see you soon!

  1499. Fascinating, thank you for sharing, I had no idea that there are summer truffles! I too visit Lourmarin from USA having lived there in 2012, I will be there in early October and will be sure to check out whether there are ay truffles about as well as some good rose, I hear the 2014 vintage is better than the 2013?!

    • Hi Caroline,
      Early October is one of my favorite times to go! Probably too early for winter truffles and too late for summer ones, BUT, as I wrote above the truffle oil and salt from Les Pastras is excellent (and I am very particular about both!).

      Happy rosé tasting–one of my favorite things to do! What are your favorite rosés? Do you know my other blog–ProvenceWineZine.com?

      Thanks so much for your comment, Caroline!

      • Hi Susan, great to hear back from you. I had actually reached out to you when I first discovered your delightful blog whilst living in Lourmarin in 2012/13 but think maybe you never got my message. Through your website link I met Walter & stayed in Les Nids d’hirondelles last year, loved it!, so thank you! Although I live in San Francisco I am actually English and as much as I love California, Lourmarin has stolen my heart. I’d love to understand more about your connection there and how you found it as I think you live on the East Coast? Perhaps we could email; carolinelongstaffe@gmail.com. Yes I do know & follow your fabulous wine blog. My favorite rose currently is Le Leoube which I first found in a deli here and then at the amazing Daylesford barns in the Cotswold in UK (here’s he link to my post about my visit there; http://bit.ly/1Aoxtps), do go there if you in the UK!) only to discover, at a wonderful local pub,The Wild Rabbit, which they also own, that in fact they own Le Leoube winery too….it’s a small world!! Love to chat to you more!

  1500. Hi all.
    Our First post on the blog. We visit Provence regularly as we are in the UK so a

  1501. We visited Les Pastras last year & like you enjoyed the experience. We to are now hooked on Truffles. Did you try the excellent truffle oil? We brought some home & use it in many dishes. As have not been able to get back to Provence this year unfortunately but planning a trip or 2 early next year. We will certainly visit Lisa & Johann again next year. I wasn’t aware of the summer truffle fete so will look out for that. Thanks for sharing

    • What a fun experience and we learned a lot, too! I did, indeed, try that truffle oil and loved it! Brought some back as well as some salt! I would like to visit during the late fall for another hunt!

  1502. Well, I have to say that “a surfeit of truffles” sounds like bragging to me! 🙂 This must have been a blast – and wasn’t it fun to learn that bees are being used to hunt truffles, as well? This post made me want truffles now… but sadly, there is no direct pipeline from Les Pastras to Tucson. Also, I had no idea there were summer truffles – perhaps too much rosé for me, too?

    • Hi David,

      So interesting that you also were unaware of summer truffles. They were very good and the hunt was a blast, as you guessed, and we would do it again in the winter.

      Bees and their ability to find truffles was fascinating. Do you recall where Kathy found that information?

      Johann wanted me to let you know that through the Les Pastras truffle tree adoption program, you can receive (directly to your home) 100gr of winter black truffles from them. For the other products (winter
      truffle oils and truffles salt) they have a distributor in the US (http://www.thefrenchmarket.us) and a portion of that income goes to benefit orphans in Haiti.

      I am thrilled that one of our good friends adopted a tree in our name!

      Thanks for your comment!

      • Hmmmm. I will have to look into adopting a tree! Hmmmmm…

        I will ask Cathy about the truffle-hunting bees, and will keep you posted!

  1503. Pierre – J’ai essayé de le lire tout en français mais – par la suite – j’ai utilisé la fonction de traduction. Article merveilleux et lyrique ! Merci tellement ! Amitiés a toi et Muriel!

    • Merci David ! Comme mes “collègues” de Wine’zine & Co sont de sacrées “pointures”, j’ai essayé d’être à la hauteur, tout simplement…
      Tendresses à Mark, aussi,
      pensées “soleilleuses” vers vous tous,
      Pierre

  1504. I bet the fennel flavors were interesting with the wine. Sounds fantastic!

  1505. Thanks for that really interesting post. I had no idea there were summer truffles. In Oregon we have white truffles (Tuber oregonense), also much less intense than black Provencal truffles, but still nice. They come after the rains, in the fall and winter.

  1506. Just in the last few months I’ve taken to an occasional sip of grappa. It sears its way nicely through the aftermath of a too-rich dinner. Now I know that grappa and marc are roughly equivalent. Thanks for the informative article, and the gorgeous photographs!

  1507. What a great read, with or without a glass in hand. Mike Dater’s illustrations hit the spot. Interesting how your memory can intermingle your travels, movies, plays, books and sips of wine. Evidence of a Life Well Lived?

    • Claire,
      I guess it comes down to loving to get behind the wheel of a car and see what there is to be seen, which heading down to Provence from Lyon is a lot.
      Jerry

  1508. I still dream of Garrus.

    • Me, too…. It’s not included here, though–nor are other favorites–as its price tag is beyond the range I reviewed. Watch for a Wine Snoop post to roll out soon about Garrus!

  1509. You may want to stock up on your winter rosès selection now before rosès are pulled from the shelves to make room for Reds! “Les Domainiers” will likely be a hard one to find in the Fall!

  1510. Like a compass near north, I would be spinning dizzily with all these choices! How fun that you tasted them all!

    • Hi David, I was spinning more like a Sufi whirling Dervish under the spell of such wonderful rosés! What fun indeed!

  1511. “Les Domainiers” is top on my list of rosés. I’ve enjoyed this bottle at Château des Alpilles on several occasions & find it a delight with a meal or on its own. A handful of slightly salted almonds is a friendly crunch alongside this one.

    Thanks you!

  1512. Good to know–I’ll be drinking rose all year long!

  1513. Great list, Susan. I love each and every one except the Château Saint-Maur Cru Classé. But, haven’t tasted it yet. Where is the domaine? Might have to do a road trip to keep up with the Manfulls!

    • Hi Pam,
      Château Saint-Maur Cru Classé is located in Cogolin, near Saint-Tropez. It would be a great destination!

  1514. Bonjour Pierre. Très heureux vous avez fait un article sur Domaine La Tourraque. Je suis allé au domaine il ya quelques années et a rencontré Sébastien Craveris qui était tellement gentils et enthousiaste au sujet de leurs vins, qui sont délicieux. Et la la vue sur mer à partir de leur propriété de plage est superbe! Un endroit parfait pour siroter.

  1515. So pleased in viewing this to be reminded how much I enjoy a Niçoise, yet embarrassed how often I forget to propose to my live-in French chef (and wife) Bénédicte to prepare one for us. Great to have access to your recipe.
    Do you also have a recipe for another favorite of mine, a Lyonnaise?
    Jerry

  1516. Susan,
    Its tough to have a favorite when coming into the fall season access starts to disappear with re-stocked shelves at the local wine shops I haunt. Happily internet offering from WTSO have kept me stocked with Tourbillon.
    Jerry

    • Tourbillon! I really enjoyed that wine….I will pick up another bottle and may add that to the list! Thanks for reminding me!

  1517. Great article! Are any of these available in California?

    • Yes, indeed! In fact, I just found Pure and Whispering Angel in BevMo! in Temecula and located one of the few Château Léoube bottles in LA. I recently saw Domaines Ott in LA, too.

      Use the Wine-Searcher feature on the right side above to look for others and let me know if there is a particular one you are looking for! Happy wine hunting!

  1518. Rose will definitely be added to my collection of wines.
    Thanks for the shopping list!

  1519. Hello Pam !
    Un p’tit coin de paradis. Pour siroter l’éternité, au jardin d’Éden…
    Tendresses,
    Pierre

  1520. Viktorija Todorovska September 9, 2015 at 7:03 pm

    Well, it’s tough to decide what my favorites are, so much depends on time of year and food. But in general dry, crisp, aromatic rosé from Provence can seduce me any time. For aperitif, I usually choose something easy-drinking, but once I start considering food my thoughts drift towards wines with more structure. One of my favorite combination is seafood with the minerally rosés from Sainte Victoire (a part of the Cotes de Provence AOP named for the famous limestone mountain which imparts an unmistakable minerality to the wines). Sante!

    • I, too, especially love a good dose of minerality in rosés! Your are so right–choosing the right rosé depends on how one intends to drink it. I recall a certain rosé we shared in Provence that was not particularly appealing served alone but came to life with our meal! Thanks for the good points!

  1521. As someone with a food allergy, this really made me so happy. First, I can really identify with a single-portion-separate plate; it really sets you apart and NOT in a good way. It makes you feel guilty that your host had to go to extra trouble, when all they needed to do was make a meal that everyone can eat. I hope that on our next trip to Provence, we get to eat at La Fenière and Claudette. I am confident my allergy won’t be an issue for once…

    Thanks for a great post, Susan!

    • Hi David, Talking with Nadia really made me think about the “separate plate” serving, something I confess to have done to guests. She is passionate about her new endeavors and I wish her great success!

  1522. What a perfect wine to toast Pope Francis! Or to toast anything. Chateauneuf du Pape has been my favorite wine since I was first in the Avignon area in the 1960’s. Now that we travel to France on a regular basis, for both business and pleasure, I can indulge my taste for this delicious, full bodied wine. And, it turns out, after visiting Chateau Fortia, a Chateauneuf producer, last year, I also love the whites. I am so glad to find another, affordable Chateauneuf. Lovely post, as always.

    • Hi Antonia,
      Do you like those from Gigondas and Vacueyraus? Also two of my favorites. There is a fellow who sells a few CNP wines at the Lourmarin and Cucuron markets (and other markets–I just don’t know which ones). He has a very nice CNP white from Chateau des Fine Roches. His name is Jacques Pigerol. I have his telephone numbers if you are interested.
      Thanks so much for the kind words about the post!

  1523. What a good excuse to sip a wonderful wine! Your post makes me wonder if the new “upstarts” are creating wines that are meant to be enjoyed sooner than later, and perhaps blended to appeal to more modern day palate. What do you think? Thanks for sharing – and your post also reminded me of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape that I had earlier this year! Exquisite!

    • You are so right! Many wineries seem to be catering to the “gotta have it now” philosophy created and reinforced by technology and Amazon, among other 21st factors. Regarding the modern palatem the modern day American palate demands more sweet-tasting wine and some wineries are making sweeter wines to satisfy that desire–I’ve seen that in rosés . In Provence, AOP rosés can’t exceed 4 grams of residual sugar per liter but making the wines fruitier can make them taste sweeter (under certain circumstances).
      As always, thank you for your comment, David!

  1524. What a touching tribute, Susan Manfull! Wish I had been there to toast with you. The Foire aux Vins is on now in all the supermarkets in France. This would be a good time to scour for my very own Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Merci for the inspiration.

  1525. Bravo, Susan! I love being irreverent!

    Vive le Pape et son Châteauneuf!

    Would love to indulge in an exquisite wine such as Château-Neuf-du Pape but until I win the lottery, will have to settle for ‘lesser quality’ wines such as Bordeaux and Bergerac.

    My only complaint is: Why did you not invite Francis and me to join you in your wonderful fête celebrating his presence amongst us, and especially his incredible discourse regarding combatting climate change, protecting life (Abolition of the death penalty!), welcoming immigrants…

    And his highlighting two lesser known luminaries of the 20th century:
    The Indomitable Dorothy Day and the incredibly insightful Theologian / Philosopher / Prophet Thomas Merton!

    Merci bien!

    A bientôt,
    Henry

    • Hi Henri,
      I will put you on my list for tastings! There is much to talk about after the Pope’s visit. Certainly Thomas Merton and Dorothy Day–and the others you mention–would be subjects that would last the evening!

      Actually, I think there are some excellent Gigondas and Vacqueyras wines, comparable to some of the CNPs.

      Merci Henry!

  1526. Susan,
    Very fitting to toast such a special personage’s visit to America with a wine that the traditional high quality Italian Papal palate sought to replicate in France. To my mind they upgraded over what they had been served in the Vatican, though in no way disparaging of Italian wines of that time.

    • Oh, the history of wine is really so interesting, isn’t it? The contributions from other regions of grapes and winemaking itself is a fascinating subject. Poking alongside (not on!) the A7, as you write in your earlier PWZ post would indeed be a great tour of history and wine!

  1527. Hi Sus

    Have yet to try papel wines. Your artical and inviting photo lead me believe I have been missing out. I will attempt to find an affordable yet desirable Papel wine. If you, or anyone you know, has a suggestion please let me know.

    I will be on the central coast of California and then driving accross to my hometown in the Central San Juaquine Valley via Pasa Robles/Templeton and would appreciate any recommendations of wineries. Not Provance I know.

  1528. Happy Birthday David. As usual, this sounds devine. Thanks for the tips.

  1529. In with the new generation. Her vision based on her personal history with food, training, energy, adaptability and far reach should propel her to achieve a like level of success as her folks. Bringing beautiful cuisine to those who previously thought they were unable to partake will draw folks in to her sphere. Let’s try next year when we return.

  1530. Will you attend a performance and tell us more?

  1531. Given its English title I assume the play is aimed principally at ex-pats. Fair enough, though I hope some bi-lingual local French residents take it in to share in the fun.

  1532. This sounds like lots of fun and a great premise! Wish I could be there to see it!

  1533. Karen (Back Road Journal) October 12, 2015 at 12:29 pm

    Just wondering if you’ve gotten to see the play since your interview?

  1534. The depth of color makes much more sense to me now. I have actually had a Tavel that I loved, but I think part of each wine’s popularity, as I have discovered with not-so-perfect pairings, is the food with which we sip it. I wonder if Kermit’s favorite might go well with a certain food rather than by itself or with something no well-paired? Loved this post, Susan. Thanks fro sharing your visit to the dark side.

  1535. Hi David,
    I do think the Kermit Lynch wine would be better paired with food. Even the minimal pairing we did on the second round with the smoked salmon made it more appealing to me. In fact, I think the right food would bring the best out in all of these wines. Re Tavel, I will have to visit that appellation one of these days!

  1536. I loved Café Gaby when we were there… for the food and the photo ops. I am glad Marco has it now, and I look forward to returning!

  1537. From an outside table at Café Gaby I saw two dogs have a conversation. One dog, inside the café, barked a bunch. Another dog trotted down the street, went into the café and checked the scene.

    Both came out, calm, and outdoor dog left the way he came.

    I was drinking rosé and eating tomato salad. It was sunny, but spring-chilled enough for a scarf.

  1538. GIRLS, YOU’RE FAMOUS REPORTERS !
    PIERRE SCHOTT

    • Thank you Pierre. We will try and remain humble. You should pay a visit to this domaine, definitely vaut la peine!

  1539. May, 2014….cafe gaby was the best place to kill a bottle of rose and watch the other tourists walk by…never knowing what they were missing !

    • Completely agree! I wish we could mount a videocam and watch the action from home…but, of course, it would pale in comparison to a table on the terrace with a bottle of rosé! thanks, Wayne, for your comment!

  1540. Pierre, we wait to read your reports! Many thanks for your faithful readership! Bisous, Susan

  1541. Pam – this is a great piece, and I am so very curious about them not wanting the château photographed! A mystery, as you say. Lovely photos, too, and nice to see you chilling on the beach!

    • Hi David. I’m glad that you enjoyed it. I did read somewhere that the entire château was renovated by the present owners but couldn’t find any “after” photos on the internet. Guess I’ll have to wait to be invited to tea!

  1542. Marjorie R. Williams October 19, 2015 at 4:05 pm

    What a fond portrait you create of this café and its owner. Thank you for bringing back many warm memories of Lourmarin.

  1543. Marjorie R. Williams October 19, 2015 at 4:10 pm

    Do I understand correctly that the gastro resto L’Auberge de Fenière is closing permanently and the only restaurant will be the more casual Claudette?

    • I don’t know if the gastro restaurant is closing permanently–it was closed when I was there, Nadia told me it was “closed,” and since then, (incredulous) friends have called and told it was closed.

      And, apparently, there is now some question as to whether the name will indeed change, as I was told, but I can’t get to the bottom of this!

      For those of us who have enjoyed the gastro side, it is hard to imagine.

      • Marjorie R. Williams October 20, 2015 at 3:50 pm

        Thanks, Susan. I know we can count on you to keep us posted!

        • Hi again Marjorie,
          Just to be clear, the restaurant itself is closed. There is a menu, “La Degustation de Reine” which is Reine’s traditional cuisine, offered in what had been called La Cour.
          Thanks for your kind feedback.
          Susan
          Susan

  1544. Pam,
    Most informative and enjoyable reading – truly! Château Léoube should recruit you to create a chap book about their incredible property and its history. As the proud owner of a Citroën 2CV I was especially interested to learn of the George-Marie Haardt connection to the property.
    Jerry

    • Oh, merci Jerry. I would love to know more about previous owners. Perhaps someone will see this article and be able to fill in the blanks. The entire area around the domain would be a great destination for a day trip on your next visit to Provence. Perhaps we can all go together.

  1545. Would that all wine reviews were as informative – this is research worthy of “Connections”or “Des Racines et des Ailes”. I only wish it were sufficient to make the “elusive rosé” accessible to our taste-buds. To obtain some we may need to revive Sir Charles Litton of Pink Panther fame – at least we know he is attracted to jewels of rosy hue.

    • You are very kind Joseph. And brilliant idea – whenever I think of Léoube La Londe, I will have the Pink Panther theme humming in my head. We will have to wait for Susan Manfull’s report on the rosey jewel as she just got her hands on a bottle. Unfortunately for us, it is across the ocean!

  1546. Hi Pamela,
    A beautifully written and very comprehensive article on the Château Léoube. Well done!
    I must definitely try the wine and visit the place.
    André

    • Thank you André. We should plan a Cotignac Wine Association road trip. I would love to visit Fort Brégançon as well. See you at our next meeting!

  1547. Such a great story about Marco, Susan! He is so nice to one and all (not always the case at village cafés) with his quiet manner and sweet pleasant face. And Gaby’s is close to my heart as I had my first crème there, with you, the day I moved to Provence!

  1548. Sounds like a fun group, wish I had gotten there to see the performance. Perhaps their next one.

  1549. Elaine & Allan B. October 22, 2015 at 2:05 am

    Thank you for this, Susan. During our stays at La Bonbonniere & L’Oustalon, Marco became as much a part of our experience of Lourmarin as the market, the bells, & the passing scene. We look forward to seeing him again soon. In the meantime, it was great to learn a bit more about our favourite Loumarinois.

  1550. Hi Pamela
    I loved reading this article and it has a special meaning to me. Although a Brit, I live 30 miles east of San Francisco but lived in Provence 2 years ago ( I think part of me is still there!) The first time I tasted Le Leoube rosé was in 2013 when a girlfriend in California, recently introduced to French rosé by myself, bought a bottle from a lovely deli in Lafayette CA, near where we live. Then last year I saw it for sale at Daylesford Barns only discovering the Bamford connection when I later had lunch at the Wild Rabbit. For me such a coincidence, I write a blog as an ‘English girl living in California, in love with Provence’ posting about all 3 places and in England frequently about the Cotswolds, I wrote a post about Daylesford! I also lived in Lourmarin, where Susan lived, I have unsuccessfully tried to get in touch with her. Do tell her I know Walter and was sipping rosé with him Lourmarin just 2 weeks ago! It is such a small connected world Love to be in touch more and do check out my blog! http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/category/French%20ambience we should do guest posts for each other!

    • Yes, small world. I first met Susan when we were in graduate school together in California and have visited the Manfulls many times in Lourmarin. You certainly beat me to the punch in becoming a Léoube fan. Good to know it’s so widely appreciated. I did not know the Bamford connection, either, until visiting the domain. I have heard that the Wild Rabbit is quite a posh pub and was named Pub of the Year in the 2015 Michelin Eating Out in Pubs Guide. I look forward to reading your blog and perhaps we can RDV on your next visit to Provence and toast with un verre de Secret de Léoube!

  1551. This tasting was a lot of fun. I was surprised by how much more I enjoyed several of the rosés that I had tasted earlier in the summer. I remain a big fan of Vignelaure wines. I think Le Page is a wine whose brilliance is easy to overlook because it drinks so easily. In this tasting, I thought it had the best balance of acidity, fruit and body.

  1552. Well done Pamela,a real delight to read. I am in cold, damp Ireland today and your article transported me back to the warmth of Provence. I can’t wait to visit the Chateau and also the Café de Léoube – it all sounds delightful.

    • So glad you enjoyed it Patricia. Léoube is in a wonderful beautiful spot and so close to us – no reason not to go. Go find a bottle of Provence rosé. You’ll feel the sun on your face!

  1553. Hi Pam, I loved this article, you did a wonderful job! The photos were perfect too. Nice job!!!

  1554. Hi Pam ,
    Beautifully written and most informative article,thoroughly enjoyed it.
    Looking forward to sampling the rose and visiting the Chateau.

    • Very glad that you liked it, Pamela. A visit to the domain may be in order to stock up on wine for the holidays!

  1555. Love, love, love this gem of a man, especially this year when a few wekks ago i returned to Lourmarin and Marc greeted with a big hug and kisses, it truly made me feel like I belonged. Thanks for a great post Susan!

  1556. Nice article Pammy, really enjoyed reading it and most informative, great photography too, I recognised a couple of ‘wine tasters’ too. keep up the good work!

    • Thank you Sharron. And yes, you do know the two discerning wine connoisseurs who accompanied me to Léoube’s portes ouvertes. I’ll be sure to let you know when they’re having the next one.

  1557. Håkan Jacobsson October 30, 2015 at 9:09 am

    Hello! I have got a bottle of Vin cuit – de Virant – and I am wondering what is the best temperature to serve it. It is not to be heated, right? Christmas is on it’s way and I need to know.

  1558. Having visited the beach often we were delighted to find the café & on leaving the last time the Winery where we were
    given a great tasting bought some Wine & will be back,so found your article most interesting with all the history of such à grand place,thanks for the info Pamela.

  1559. Lovely article, beautifully written, certainly whets your appetite .

    • Hello Joy. Yes, Pellegrin Beach is the perfect spot to sip rosé. Susan and I were delighted to discover the café as well – I will be returning next summer.

    • Annie, thank you. It’s easy to write about Léoube – it has so many facets and is one of my favorite Provence wines. If you’re thirsting for a taste, I just learned that you can order their wines online at infinivin.com or, of course, on their own website chateauleoube.com.

  1560. Fascinating article, Pam. The place, the people, the history and of course the wine are so intriguing. Would love to visit someday and will be on the look out for the wine! In the meantime, I will have to just look at your amazing pictures! Best, FF

    • Hi Tracey. Yes, a fine reason to get yourself to France. Meanwhile, you can pick up a bottle of Léoube rosé next time you’re in New York. Cheers!

  1561. joan nascimbene November 1, 2015 at 6:52 pm

    a great in-depth article…wonderful to give a sense of place. i am imagining myself there, sipping a good rose. can we expect more from you?

    • Hi Joan. I would like to see you sitting at Léoube sipping wine as well. Their wine is distributed in California, so you could start sipping there until you get back to Provence.

  1562. What an interesting article! I had no idea about the provenance of barrel tasting. It makes perfect sense now.

    • Peter,
      I have never gone so far as to try my own bottling. I would be all thumbs for that kind of thing. But my readings tell me the the Brits could order smaller casks from the UK merchant and fill up and lay down directly at home. One of the oddities in my cellar is a 15 liter cask (now empty) of 1983 Nouveau Beaujolais that the renown producer Georges Duboeuf shipped to the US for retail sale.
      Jerry

    • Jerry, Wonderful. Keep the good word flowing. Vintage. Warren

      • Warren,
        While this is a far cry from the printing industry, I love turning closer to tendrils of the vine.

  1563. What a history! What a vineyard! And what a wine! Thankyou Pam for an insightful and interesting article. Jeremy

    • Hi Jeremy – glad you like. You’ll have to take a spin down to Bormes-les-Mimosas while you’re here in Provence; the domain, the wine, the beach, all incredible.

  1564. An amazing article – beautifully written, original research, great photos, a rare delight to read. Congratulations Pam. What a talent.

    • Thank you Stephanie. So pleased you enjoyed reading about Léoube. We’ll have to wander down there and stock up on the Blanc de Léoube that I know you love.

  1565. Great Job Aunt Pammy!

  1566. Thanks Timmy. Bottles of Léoube wine would make great Christmas presents for the family!

  1567. Such a fun and informative article Jerry! And the barrel tasting at Tardieu-Laurent was fabulous – it pays to have friends with influence. Thank you!

  1568. Rachel Reinhart November 2, 2015 at 1:50 pm

    Great article! Love that I learned a little something (or a lot of something) about the area and history, and not just about the wines! It was so in-depth. Can’t wait to try some of these wines!

    • So glad, I learned a lot of something too writing the article. You can always pick up a bottle in NY.

  1569. Fascinating and informative article Pam – so good I read it twice!!
    Clare
    xx

    • You will be twice rewarded in heaven, Clare, or before then if we can share a bottle of Léoube rosé! Thank you.

  1570. Expecting an article on wine, I learned so much more. History can be so interesting and entertaining, as is wine. A great article. I look forward to future articles written by you, Jerry.

    • Deirdre,
      History and wine are so interconnected, which is likely one of the things that headed me toward wine in the first place. Click on ARCHIVES and see what I dug up on Roman vineyard sites in Gaul (July 10).
      Jerry

  1571. Jerry – this was a great history lesson, and I would love to hear you do 30 minutes of stand up anytime! I have witnessed some really acrid comments from one country about another, especially the French about the English – so bitter, they are actually funny. I love the 1924 Château Mouton-Rothschild label – that alone made my day!

    • David,
      I guess our regional differences in America would give some insight into cross border culture/conflicts in Europe. It was tough being a Yankee from Rhode Island moving to Texas thirty years ago. Happily I escaped after four years, and the scars have healed.
      Jerry

  1572. Richard Vacance November 3, 2015 at 2:57 pm

    And Jerry, you say nothing about the size of the bottles used by the les negociants. I’ve seen 3+ liter bottles for la Grande Herme, not too many of those suckers from a cask!

    Richard

    • Richard,
      Until your post I had cleared away all recollection of our sail off Watch Hill with that huge bottle of Big Herm rolling from side to side. The Portuguese agency that created that products motto (Big Herm is Made From Big Grapes) truly came up with a winner.
      Thanks for the memories!

  1573. I was actually just telling someone the other day that I was disappointed that I never picked up a British accent from the Lycée.

    Not just for my small guest appearance, but I really enjoyed this article. I was pleasantly surprised to find that you somehow managed to locate the appropriate wine labels for your article in the chaos that is your study (or any other black hole at 7 Heath St). What other fun artifacts are you concealing from us? P.S. Mom could use your skills to find your wedding album.

    • You should know that all things wine related in the house are sacrosanct, thus readily retrievable. Our wedding album has gone missing? Hmmm. I have to think a bit about that.

  1574. I especially enjoyed the history and the wonderful photos. Over the years I have only ever viewed this area from the sea, you encourage me to make further exploration by land.. Thankyou.

    • Yes, it’s a beautiful area that I would like to explore more of as well – and from the sea! So glad you enjoyed the article and, as a wine lover, you should absolutely try the Léoube in all its colors.

  1575. What a fascinating article! Who knew about all of this history and the way it still influences how things are done. Made me wonder about the smuggling business during those years when French spirits, especially, were lucrative, forbidden goods. Too far afield for this venue? I’d love to know more about that.

    • Never thought about smuggling, but makes sense that it would have occurred. I will look into this further among my wine books. Your query made me think of an incidence of illicit activity related to booze. The Brits made a lovely small film after the war titled “Tight Little Island.” It was based upon a WWII shipwreck adjacent to a small Scottish island that had drunk through all the Scotch they had on hand. The ships cargo included something like 50,000 cases of Scotch, which the villagers gallantly off-loaded and discretely stored away.

  1576. No, not Provence, but some really good wine. One stop you might consider would be Tablas Creek Vineyards in Paso Robles. It is a partnership between American winemaker Robert Haas and the renowned Chateauneuf-du-Pape family, the Perrins. I just interviewed Marc Perrin at Chateau Beaucastel this summer. What fun that stop would be!

  1577. Thank you for the intriguing article Jerry. Having lived in neighbouring Luxembourg for several years I have to say I thoroughly enjoyed the best of both worlds. I find lovely French reds pair very well with Monty Python humour, and still do.

    • Heidi,
      This is amazing. While I never traveled to see Luxembourg while living in Lyon, thus know nothing of it, not one hour before seeing your message tonight I was reading a memoir of a Canadian writer describing his time in Paris in the late twenties. He writes of spending a few days with friends in Luxembourg, and I was taken by this description:
      “Around us the conversation was going on either in the softest German or in a dialect that we found out later was the Luxembourger platt, a language that sounded like the passage of water over stones.” Now I am really intrigued to hear it spoken.

  1578. When I come visit you’ll have to take me there! Seems beautiful!

    • It certainly is beautiful and and a visit to Château Léoube will surely be on the agenda when you visit.

  1579. Great review. I think I’ll have to visit and check it out myself.

    • Brilliant idea. I knew the detective in you would need to make his own assessment! Just let me know when you’re coming.

  1580. I like the backstory…. gives the article “full body.” From my “tasting notes,” I’ll give this a 9.5/10. I’d would have given it a 10, but there is no barrel. Cheers mate!

  1581. 9.5! I am honored.

  1582. I would certainly not claim to be a wine expert but I happened upon this wine in September 2015 in Carrefour, I think. It’s delicious. I’m going back to France tomorrow and will be searching it out. Let’s have it “across the pond” then!

  1583. MON BON ROI DAVID,
    CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE A ÉTÉ SANS DOUTE LE PREMIER DOMAINE DU SUD-EST DE LA FRANCE À VINIFIER… À LA BORDELAISE (STYLE CABERNET-SAUVIGNON) ! JE SUIS CE DOMAINE DEPUIS LES ANNÉES 80, ET JE CROIS BIEN QUE LE MILLÉSIME LE PLUS ANCIEN QUE J’AVAIS SUR LA CARTE DE MON RESTAURANT, EN ALSACE, ÉTAIT DU 1978. À L’ÉPOQUE, LES DEGRÉS ALCOOLIQUES TOURNAIENT PLUTÔT AUTOUR DES 13° : ON SE PRÉOCCUPAIT MOINS DE LA MATURITÉ DE LA PEAU (COULEUR, TANIN, ETC.) QUI, COMME ON LE SAIT, ÉVOLUE MOINS VITE QUE LA MATURITÉ DE LA PULPE, ET ON RENTRAIT LE RAISIN PLUS TÔT, DONC AVEC MOINS DE SUCRE (D’OÙ MOINS D’ALCOOL – MAIS LES AMATEURS DE VIN CONNAISSENT TOUT ÇA).
    TON PLAT PARAÎT PARFAIT AVEC CE STYLE DE VIN, SURTOUT AVEC LA TOUCHE PROVENÇALE. TU ES UN VRAI CHEF !
    TENDRESSES VERS TOI ET MARK, ET ENCORE JOYEUX ANNIVERSAIRE, ARIZONA MEN…
    PIERRE SCHOTT

    • Pierre – Merci mille fois – pour l’information que tu as partagée sur le vin, et aussi pour tes mots très aimable! Tendresses, aussi, vers toi et Muriel! À bientôt, j’espère!
      David

  1584. What a delicious article David. The quote by Charles Caleb Colton “Imitation is the highest form of flattery” applies to you, as we try to duplicate your dinner and search for the wine. Thanks for the inspiration.

  1585. I feel like canceling my long standing order for a turkey for Thanksgiving and doing exactly this recipe and pairing. So confused. Nonetheless will do this on another occasion. Thank you!

    • Pam – you know something? I just ordered a pork shoulder for Thanksgiving! I feel as though I am cheating on my country, but honestly, good pork is (to me) is so much better than turkey!
      À bientôt, David

      • I hope we’ll be hearing about you Thankgiving dinner and seeing some of your lovely photos!

        • Pam – my Thanksgiving is TOTALLY non-traditional this year! All-Italian! Roasted porchetta, white beans and sage, and peas with celery and Marsala. Should be fun, eh? What are you doing?

  1586. David,
    Pierre has hit the alcohol point on the head. But there something else going on, related to climate. Reds that were once 12.5 are now more like 14.5, or higher. Twenty five years ago virtually the only red table wine at that level was Amarone, vinified after drying out a bit on racks. Climate change a factor? You bet. I am told the forward thinking Bordelais are looking at land in Scandanavia. I will not be around, but I smile imaging my great grandchildren drinking Lapland Red.

  1587. Chateauneuf du pape blanc is a favorite of mine, if only because I like to say it out loud. Even with an American accent. Send me a barrel, er I mean bottle.

    • Claire,
      Now thats a nice bottle of white. But also look around for a Viognier. The name has a nice roll to it and the wine can be delicious (more so coming out of France than California).

  1588. Great Article Jerry with the benefit of some very interesting history
    ‘i guess in the end “its all about the wine baby”
    Keep up the great work my friend

    • Bob,
      Yeah, I love the stuff. Funny that it never made the unofficial drink list at the ATO toga parties. Guess I have to admit having pagan tastes as a youth.

  1589. Jerry – I read your comment just before heading to bed last night, and I have to say I fell to sleep with a big smile on my face thinking about a Lapland Red! It is sad and frightening – and fascinating – what climate change is doing to our foods and wines. I hadn’t thought about the percentage of alcohol from that point of view, so I am great appreciative to you and Pierre for your input.
    David

    • David,
      If the vineyard move north comes earlier than I expect I will be ready for it. I have been enjoying eiswein, vin glacier, etc. for many years now.

      • Yes, I have been enjoying those as well and, as long as the wine is good (even Arizona wines!), I am happy to drink! I imagine we are cut from similar cloth in that way…

  1590. Wonderful post, Susan – and I am so glad you got to taste this wine. I would, however, have been happier if you had sent me the bottle…

  1591. I think good rosé could be found in Provence, especially at Domaine Ott, going back in time. Virtually impossible to locate a truly well made local rosé if you lived in California during the wine tsunami that begun after 1976, and not much to write home about out there even today. David Allen Scott is right to query whether rosé will ever be taken seriously, in the sense that some celebrity chef will be noted as saying “make mine rosé.” Time will tell, but in the meantime I can suggest no better “not have to think about it quaffing wine.” As to premium efforts coming out of Provence I believe Leoubé are on to something with a monopole offering. To the drinker where price is not a deterrent provenance is huge. Within five years I could see them getting $100+ a botlle.

  1592. You have many amazing blog entries, yet I think this is my all-time favourite. I love Gerard Isirdi’s work and smile every morning that I wake to one of his prints. Learning of his work with your daughter Alex was delightful to envision. Reading his advice to young artists was thought provoking. I love the line, “enter the cage and be the bird.” I so hope to visit his atelier one day. Thank you for this wonderful piece.

  1593. Gérard Christine Isirdi November 18, 2015 at 9:34 am

    Susan, quel travail magnifique, merci mille fois pour ce superbe article qui vient directement du coeur. Nous sommes très fiers Christine et moi. On vous embrasse tous les trois

    • Le plaisir était entièrement à moi. J’ai aimé apprendre plus au sujet des graines qui se sont poussées dans ton passion pour la peinture. C’était particulièrement amusement pour te joindre sur la terrasse de Gaby et pour apprécier une vue si près de tes mains au travail.

  1594. Excellent reading Susan and how fun to follow your search for Château Léoube La Londe .
    I noticed someone in Santa Barbara, CA found a bottle so I will look here in San Diego.

  1595. Thanks, Susan, for this wonderful blog! It was wonderful to see him at work–his hands flying over the canvas with paint–now I see that image when I look at his work.
    I wonder if he misses the blue and white awnings of my Gaby of a few years ago.

  1596. I love to hear the stories behind the wine! For me, that’s the best part. There are a lot of good wines out there (a lot of bad ones, too), but the story of who made the wine, where it came from, or why is what seems to separate the good wines from the exceptional for me.

  1597. “The goal was to have a small cuvée with a story,” ~ Pernot
    I absolutely adore this statement. So many of us love rosé for the story (the rosé feeling, as I say). We don’t just throw back a glass of wine, but *enjoy* a glass of rosé. And — the increased quality of Provence rosé adds a great deal of depth. We aren’t just drinking it to wash down the sunscreen, but to appreciate the winemaker’s visions and efforts. This really comes through with certain Provencal winemakers (agree with Jerry Clark about Domaine Ott). It is an exciting time to be a rosé-lover. Great piece!

  1598. I am sorry we didn’t get to meet Isirdi when we were there – but I have always admired his work in your home! I also remember the story about you “bothering” him and how protective that ma was… His work – more than anyone else’s – reminds me of Raoul Dufy!

  1599. The video of Isirdi working at the cafe is wonderful, especially peeking over his shoulder as he whisks over the canvas. Imagine seeing how other painters working in the south (Bonnard, Matisse, etc.) in a similar fashion would be today.

  1600. Hello David! You’re really a “Provençal convaincu”…
    Tennille said (Toni Tennille Show 1980) about “Muskrat Love” : “Every time I sing this song, I think of Henry Kissinger…” (?)
    Pierrot from Manosco, with Muskrat, Zinfandel, Muscat & Gewürztraminer love…

  1601. Merci, Pierre! I do love my Provençal wines, you know.

    And, I actually know the Kissinger story to which you referred. When the Captain & Tenille played for the White House in the late ’70s, Henry Kissinger was in the front row, a little more than a meter away from her. Throughout the entire performance, he sat there, with his arms crossed, staring up at her, with a very grumpy/sour look on his face. Thus, every time she sings it, she thinks of him!

    Much love to you and Muriel.

  1602. I enjoyed your article regarding the Château Léoubee very much!
    As one who truly enjoys the “simple complexities of beer” and a bit history at the same time, I must admit your review of Château Léoubee of only adds to my enthusiam to include travel to The Provence Region to my “bucket list”.
    Please contine to write about your what you are obviously so obviously passionate about so that I may consider additonal vineyard to add to my “bucket list”.

    • Yes, expand that Bucket List to include Provence. In addition to Château Léoube, there are oodles of nearby vineyards and historical sites worthy of any discriminating list. Keep reading Provence Winezine to pick your favorites and count on me for insider tips when you hit the road.

  1603. I refuse to remember Muskrat Love but do love the article. As usual, you have not shied away from the challenge of making a très intimidating gâteau. Hopefully I can locate a bottle of this for the festive season – for either the foes gras or dessert. Thank you for the recommendation and happy holidays!

  1604. The cake and the wine sound excellent!

  1605. Thanks, Terri! You will love them both!

  1606. Excellent Susan. I especially liked watching him paint. I have given many of his prints as gifts – they so capture the feel of La Provence – since first seeing his work chez toi. Next time I deserve a little treat will get one of my very own!

  1607. It sounds wonderful!!

  1608. Thanks you for a wonderful article. I’ve just added the Blantyre to my Christmas list. I was very good this year!

  1609. So gorgeous — fantastic piece.

    Can I say what we are all thinking: I’m jealous. Incredible! You’ve done a wonderful job of making this evening real for those of us that are dreaming!

  1610. Beautifully written with stunning photos. Will you be trying your hand at any of the courses served for your New Year extravaganza? They all sound devine!

  1611. Interesting! I always feel like it’s a proper tour of a vineyard (and an honour) when I’m allowed to taste straight from the barrel.

    • Ashley,
      You are totally correct about an honor being bestowed when you taste from the barrel. I am always humbled by the pride that’s taken when we taste the results of their labor.
      Jerry

  1612. Oh, to have been a fly on the wall (or in your glass) that evening! I know the elegance of Blantyre, and I can only imagine how it was markedly improved with those particular rosés! It is a lovely post, and I love all the photos.

  1613. Susan, thank you for this look back on 2015.
    I am so glad I was able to share some of those fabulous wine tastings with you on The Modern Trobadors tour. It was extraordinary to see the passion and love that goes into the winemaking.

    • Hi Mary, You were such a treat to have on our tour!! We will have to plan some more tastings Stateside!

  1614. Hasn’t it been a wonderful year? I can’t imagine anything more engaging than being a part of the world of winemaking. Writing, reading & tasting bring us nose-to-nose with the greats.

    Thanks for your hard work & thoughtful curating. It’s my pleasure to be a part of PWZ. Enthusiastic & thirsting for more in 2016.

    Merci!

    • Hi Jill, It is such a pleasure to have you as part of Team PWZ! I am envisioning a great year with, as you wrote above, “writing, reading and tasting.” I am going to toot your horn again by telling readers that you just won “The Drunken Cyclist” monthy writing contest! congrats again, Jill!

      • Oh Susan, thanks so much. This year has been such fun and in no small part to you & the Provence WineZine group. All the people in all the right places! Thanks for everything & can’t wait for more!

  1615. What a fun year it has been. Cheers to another year of fine wine together! (Sneaky photo of me from below… 🙂

    • I am sneaky when it comes to taking your photo! I happen to really like this one! David, thanks for all you do for PWZ–from photos to cooking, eating, and drinking, to being a sounding board and editing! Such a Renaissance man!

  1616. Lovely year in revue. Is there an event scheduled for June 2016?

    • Hi Carol,
      We are indeed leading three tours in 2016–two in June and one in September! Please visit our website for more information (although we are still working on the details) ~ http://www.themoderntrobadors.com/our-provence-tours/ . Feel free to email me or call me with any questions (contact information in the aforementioned link.)
      Thanks for your interest…and thanks for the positive feedback!

  1617. It was lovely to ring in the New Year with a Whispering Angel and to continue our tradition of Veuve Clicqout at midnight. Did you know that in 1798 Phillipe Clicquot chose to adorn his cork with an anchor, a symbol of hope? Whispering Angels and hope for the new year. Thank you to those at PWZ and to amazing winemakers for the joy you bring.

    • Let’s hope those Whispering Angels will watch over us all and that hope will lead the way when that Veuve Clicqout cork was popped! I hope you can join us next year on one of the tours! Until then, we have some tasting to do!

  1618. Thanks for the memories! The TMT tour was marvelous. A great combo of relaxation and discovery. One of my fav wines was a 6 euro bottle of Viogner at Domaine des Vaudois and Claude, the owner, was just one of the many proprietors we met who shared their passion for wine with us. Merci!

    • I agree about Claude’s Viognier. We had a small Viognier tasting not to long ago and that wine did very well! The TMT tour was a lot of fun, wasn’t it?! We will be going back with two tours in June and one in September–please pass the word around. (How will we ever top last summer’s group? But, we are off to a great start with very interesting people!)

  1619. What great photos! It’s almost as if I had been there with you! Bonne Année!

  1620. Wonderful wrap up! Such an eye for the sweetest in Provence. Thanks for bringing us the treats and fun of life in your village. Cheers to a full and fanstastic 2016!

  1621. Lovely photos Susan, what a year! I’m looking forward to seeing you back here in the new one.

  1622. Beautiful, Susan. You have done an amazing job on this site, and put in a phnomenal amount of love and labor, since its inception. I’m proud to be a small part of it. And thank you for including d’Agneau. He was a truly intrepid snoop!

    • You are an integral part of PWZ! Thank you for all that you have done. Gorgeous photos and wonderful article on Chateau Leoube! Onward and upward!

      • and, I must add that PWZ would just not be possible without contributions from everyone. I am grateful to all!

  1623. A year packed full of firsts such as The ModernTrobadors’ first annual tour of Provence concentrating on the wines, markets, lavender and so much more that included new friendships, meals and the French custom of lingering over them and the added surprise of my first truffle hunt. The tour was special from the beginning to the end. These pictures allow the memories to swirl in one’s mind like wine in a glass taking one back or prompting thoughts of the next visit. Thank you for the beautiful collection, “Through the Lens of my Wine Glass

    • Aw, Patti, I love the image of “memories swirling in one’s mind like wine in a glass.” sometimes, everything just works…well, okay, there was the Taxi strike against Uber in Marseille!

  1624. FAMOUS ! AND NOW, ANOTHER FAMOUS ONE… TENDRESSES ET MEILLEURS VOEUX VERS VOUS TOUS – MUMU & PIERROT

  1625. Lord I’m hungry! Your quail recipe sounds devine and I plan to attempt it next time the coffers allow for foie gras and la truffe. But I’m anxious to try the local Pinot Noir which is a rarity in these parts, and google maps tell me that Domaine de Valmoissine is a mere 20 miles from my front door, so no excuse there. I’ll let you know how it pairs with some of your other suggestions.

    • Pam – let me know after you have had it! Also, I would love to know what else the vineyard is producing – surely you won’t just buy the Pinot noir when you go?

      A little foie gras and one truffle won’t break the bank, and it will be worth it! Happy New Year!

  1626. Seacoast Lately January 3, 2016 at 7:05 pm

    Beautifully written. Love to see The Provence Wine Zine and Cocoa and Lavender in the same post! Happy New Year to you both!

  1627. Hi Jerry, this is the best rationalization ever for a vacation in Provence! Save money! I am looking forward to having dental problems so I can save my family money too! Well…that may be an exageration! May be hard to find a Dentist working in Chamonix in the winter. Great post!

    • Perhaps this is a new blog–recommended dentists and endodontists in France!?

      • Susan,
        Real service to American tourists would be to create medical/dental assistance pamphlet to leave in tourist offices in Provence. My tongue is only half in my cheek when I suggest this.

    • You are probably right about Chamonix. The dentists will be on the slopes, but a good friend who has an orthopedic practice in Grenoble is flat out busy in ski season.

  1628. La Dolce Vita California January 4, 2016 at 3:08 pm

    Great idea, Susan! Our deductible is ridiculously high, and we would have been paying out-of-pocket for that whole procedure you described. Smart move on your part to seek out good care abroad–with a vacation in a beautiful place thrown in! – Kirsten

    • Hi Kirsten, I wish I could take credit for this strategic planning–it is work of fellow writer,Jerry Clark–but I will certainly follow in his footsteps for the next big dental procedure that I need! When you go to Provence again, should you need some recommendations, let us know!

  1629. Jerry! $7000! That’s more then my first new VW, my first new MGB, my first new Fiat 124 sports coupe! In fact, if you add them together it’s just a little more than all those cars put together, and if you add in inflation for the implant, it probably is today. Doing the math, if I had to replace 5 teeth with implants, it would be more than my first house. Smart move on your part, next time you could probably add in some cosmetic surgery while you’re at it – at that rate you could go broke saving money, but at least you’d have a nice place to “recover.” A loaf of bread, a jug of wine and new teeth – doesn’t get much better than that….

  1630. Love the #WinesofProvence year in review!

    • Thanks, Carolyne. Hope you saw The Modern Trobadors review, where you are pictured as publisher of the super, multifaceted blog, Perfectly Provence! Thanks for your kind feedback, as always!

  1631. Jerry – this is brilliant! And, as I am just finishing the year-long process for my first implant, I wish you had published this last year! I really could have used a vacation in France! Sadly, there will probably be another implant in my future, but at least now I know what to do!

  1632. Hi, Jerry.

    Wonderful
    information! We’ve been going to San Miguel de Allende for the same
    reason. Medical tourism is well known, but dental tourism needs a
    boost.

    However,
    I’ve got to say I was hoping for more information related to the photo of
    earlier methods. No matter what it costs, modern dentistry is preferable
    to what people used to have to endure: jaws often were broken during
    tooth extraction. “To lie like a toothdrawer” (about how much
    it would hurt and how easy the procedure would be) was a cliche in old France,
    and St. Simon, in one of his rants about another noble at the court of Louis
    XIV vilifies him as looking “just like a country toothdrawer.”
    Louis XIV–in an age where dentistry had actually made advances!–underwent a
    horrible extraction of teeth in his upper right jaw, which, without anesthesia
    or antibiotics, resulted in an abscess that opened a passage between his mouth
    and hose that allowed masticated food and especially liquids to spray from his
    mouth into his nose and created a permanently bad taste in his mouth and odor
    on his breath. The cure was to cauterize the passage, and his dental
    surgeon ran a red-hot wire into the passage 14 times on January 10, 1684.
    That wasn’t enough to do the trick, so the king underwent the same treatment
    four more times in January and early February before the passage healed.

    A
    few thousand dollars for an implant, cheap in comparison!!

    • Jenny,
      It’s so hard for me to imagine Louis XIV suffering so. Perhaps because my image of the royals back then developed from Richard Lewis as King John in Mel Brook’s ROBIN HOOD: MEN IN TIGHTS. I guess teeth issues is the great equalizer.

  1633. David,
    My research on Clos Vougeot’s style of wine way back when would appear to indicate that Babette knew her grape juice. The 125 acre enclosed Clos was one vineyard until shortly before 1900, when suddenly numerous producers acquired very small holdings that in total have not been enlarged. Its reputation when she would have uncorked her bottle(s) was at its summit, equalled by only a handful of other grand cru’s. Back to style of wine from that period, Michael Broadbent of Christie’s fame wrote on Bouchard’s 1865 offering as follows:
    “Beautiful colour, still deep; sweet nose, no sign of decay, perfection; touch of ripe sweetness on palate, assertive yet languorous flavour; full of character and all the component parts — fruit, extract, alcohol, tannins and acidity — for a long life. He made this evaluation after tasting in May, 1981!

  1634. Our occasions to drink and reflect upon wine together, both here and in Provence, has been wonderful. But being a part of your contributing regulars tops that by many degrees. Onward and upward in 2016!

  1635. Jerry, Tasting and reflecting upon the wines we have shared has both widened and deepened my knowledge of wine and what fun getting there! Thinking of Alexis Lichine, let’s always carry cork screws! Onward and upward!

  1636. Isn’t it fun looking back on what life cost in times past. I recently came across a college statement from the fall quarter of 1963. Room, board and tuition was $682.34. Thats about what textbooks cost today.

  1637. Lovely story of an impassioned couple living their dreams. Accompanying photo’s of the property are alluring, especially seeing that welcoming pool adjoining the vineyard. Reminded me of an agriturismo vineyard Ben and I stayed at outside Verona twenty five years ago. Also very impressed by positive reaction of Eloi Durrbach to the wines coming out from L’Ours. With the top restaurants taking notice it won’t be long before the message gets back here. But then, not everyone hungers to have their wine in America.

    • Hi Jerry,
      It was a very interesting (and fun!) 24 hours, beginning with the interview and followed by dinner and the luxurious stay in one of the rooms in their guest house. (More on the guest house in an upcoming post.)
      Eloi Durrbach has not tried the wines yet but he was very enthusiastic about the potential of the vineyard itself. I am looking forward to his feedback when he does try them!

  1638. How wonderful to have such success in so short a time! I hope the distributors listened to (nay, read) your plea to bring the wine to the U.S.

    • Not without hard work and long hours, I can see, but very gratifying, I am sure! We will have to secure some of their wine for a wine and food pairing column!

  1639. Oh my, must go for a tasting – especially those reds. It’s great to hear that another local var vineyard is concentrating their efforts on reds and that they’re being so well received. Looks as though they may follow in the footsteps of Provence rosés in popularity.

  1640. You are so close to Clos de l’Ours, I hope you do scoot over for a tasting and to see the lovely property! Let me know what you think!

  1641. Absolutely on my must-visit list. The wine sounds incredible, the winemaker interesting & the place gorgeous. Oh my, fantasizing again…

  1642. If nobody else wants the Syrah, I’ll drink it 🙂

    The concept of biodynamique wine production feels watered down, certainly, when the consumer gets involved. The idea of labeling is a consumer thing, and with it comes a sense of obligation (better check the pack to ensure there’s no guilt in this purchase). In reality, biodynamique production techniques are bueatiful, natural process…most have been in place out of early necessity and have stayed present out of guiding principal rather than “because the consumer wants it”. Such an interesting topic, thanks for this post!

    • I am not sure of late what the consumer wants. You would think a reasonable amount of information on the labels (front and back). But when I see Fifty Shades of Gray brand of wine without any grape information I am beginning to wonder. Marketing is still king I guess.

  1643. If no one else wants the Syrah, I’ll drink it!

    • Jill,
      I am totally with you on this. I guess one has to write off the higher Malbec selection number as good promotional effort out of Argentina.

  1644. I am an American living in the south of France and I spent some time before my retirement working in the retail wine industry. I think the sampling might be better seen as 24% of Americans showing an interest as I don’t think the majority of wine drinkers see a discernible difference among organic, sustainable and biodynamic wines. Further, I would posit that if the American wine buying public doesn’t want it, it should. Don’t give up so quickly. If the Gajas get it, can we Americans be that far behind? Well, yes, maybe, but isn’t it something that needs to be changed? Next winter, go to Montpellier and then tell us what you learn.

    • Linda,
      You have the benefit of living in a world where a tradition of astute viticulture and winemaking practice goes back centuries. Added to that, in the thirties legislation came along that laid out grape variety and output guidelines that have guided the growth of the industry. This is all still relatively new to us over here, having to virtually start over again after prohibition. Some suggest that wine is in itself a natural product, so not to worry whats going on in the vineyard or winery. It’s all good. For the moment at least that perception is carrying the day.

  1645. As an aware but everyday consumer I have to agree that most things I find desirable – from food to fashion- take a few months to years to gain the momentum and catapult to the top of the market. As wine buying decisions are a combination of factors – grape and price range perhaps the top, I will try an organic, sustainable, biodynamic over any brand and will pay a few dollars more ANY day. I agree with Linda that the market is still emerging.

    • Virginia,
      There is a question of fashionability with wines, yet it is more to do with trends in grape varieties than in what may be better health wise. Pinot Grigio is seemingly ordered as much as Chardonnay in restaurants and bars, and now I hear tell that sommeliers are touting Riesling over either of those. I don’t think the general wine drinking population here has any idea whether organic wines taste better, and surely the shops don’t want to weigh in on that. Yes, things will continue to emerge, and Linda being where she is will be in the vanguard.

  1646. We have been choosing organic or sustainable wines for the bulk of our wine drinking years and we are in our mid 60’s. We were part of that group of Renaissance people read hippies in the 60’s and 70’s that saw the forest for the trees.

    I would name Bonterra and Frey as two note-able organic wine companies with offerings under or at $15 produced here in the U.S. Natura from Chile has some good reasonably priced reds as well. And there are any number of French wines that are not labeled organic but say something to the affect that they were produced either sustainably or without chemicals.

    Organic wines are important for several reasons. They’re good to drink of course and easy on the body but as important, they are helpful to the land and ecosystems that they are produced in. At this stage of the game on this planet, that’s no small thing.

  1647. Linda,
    Good for you. Organic is better, and I believe knowledgable wine drinkers accept that. Yet the movers and shakers in the industry don’t seem to see any marketing value to it, thus in my opinion its development will continue to lag among American producers. Case in point. You note Bonterra, and they do play the organic card very strongly. However, their parent Brown & Forman, a $3+ billion revenue wine and spirits company own three other California vineyards that make no mention of bio, organic or sustainability on their web sites. Could it be that corporate has set this up deliberately, and if so then why only one of four properties are this progressive? The other three surely are making decent wine.

  1648. Sounds absolutely lovely. And you are right, azalea, that’s something. Isn’t this an interesting illustration about how each person experiences a wine uniquely? If you hadn’t had that intimate interaction with the azaleas, that scent wouldn’t have been familiar to you…and would have likely been missed. Such a poetic moment.

  1649. Linda,
    Just a note to add. I had not noticed Fetzer makes significant points on what they are doing along sustainability/regeneration lines. But nothing on their site about organic or bio.

  1650. Jill,
    I am most impressed to see Chapoutier make this move. For me they have always been a brand that one bought without hesitation. Also great pr for Provence in general.

  1651. I agree, Jerry. The Chapoutier estate hasn’t failed me in a purchase yet. I also find their philosophy compelling, always interesting to read about their history, wines and methods. This connection between Rhone and Provence seems natural and, as you say, good for Provence and Chapoutier fans. Thanks for your comment!

  1652. Hello Jerry — I agree!

    I’ve never been let down by Chapoutier & they are such an interesting domaine…lots to learn and enjoy from the Chapoutier estate. It will be a fun integration for Rhône and Provence wine enthusiasts!

  1653. David,
    I absolutely adore sweetbreads, though we have never prepared them at home. Now I will nudge my better half Bénédicte toward having a go at your tantalizing recipe.

    • Jerry – I am so glad you are a fan. They are so good, and I have rarely had a bad version! Our new favorite is a Argentinean version – grilled with chimichurri sauce. Amazing! I hope you and Bénédicte enjoy this as an apéritif someday soon.

  1654. Chimichurri unknown sauce to me. From what I see on google it can include cumin or cilantro, which are no-no’s for Ben’s palate. But I will get her to whip up one without either of those two. For my part, I love spicy.

    • Jerry – happily for you, my chimichurri has no cilantro in it. In fact, most Argentinean recipes do not. Here it is:

      Green Chimichurri

      1 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
      ½ cup fresh mint leaves
      ½ cup fresh oregano leaves
      ½ cup light olive oil
      ¼ cup red wine vinegar
      1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
      3 roasted shallots (can be done in the microwave)
      sea salt, to taste

      Using a mortar and pestle, combine all the ingredients and work into a smooth paste. This can also be made in a food processor.

  1655. Hi David. Surrounded by azalea growing up, I never knew they could be sipped like honeysuckle. When I taste this wine, will search for the Je ne sais quoi and voila, that will be your azalea!

  1656. Susan and Bill,
    Kudos to you both. Vanity Fair could not have given this event better coverage. Great pics, and excellent story – trendy New Yorkers drinking Rosé in February. Imagine that!
    Interesting to note the comment by one of the attendees about Croteau Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island. For the past three years we ferry across the sound after Labor Day for a tour there. And each time we contact Croteau just before departure we learn they are sold out. Before you point out that we could make our trip over in the beginning of the summer to be certain to taste this elusive Rosé. But we are traditionalists, and I would reply by referring to Mrs. Astor, who always arrived late to her box in the old Metropolitan Opera house (called the Yellow Brick Brewery because of its exterior look). She wanted to make certain all had a chance to see her bedecked in fur and diamonds. At the conclusion of a performance of Aida, with Rhadames sung by THE tenor of the time, Polish Jean de Reszke, she was told she missed an extremely moving opening aria by him, Celeste Aida. Following the performance she contacted the Met director and suggested for the next performance this aria should be sung at the end of the first act. Perhaps I can convince Croteau to keep a few bottles of their Rosé in reserve for my fall visit.

    • Hi Jerry,
      Thanks for those nice words. It really was a fun event and definitely more of an “experience” than a tasting which is all well and good to get folks enthused about rosé, especially year-round.
      I have never made it to Croteaux Vineyards. Checking briefly on their website, I see they have 6 still rosés and 3 sparkling rosés! Whoa! On y va!

  1657. I agree that this is an excellent property. But can it really be their reds have not been coming in?

    • They have come in, but the stream is not steady and, recently, it seems that only bottles that were imported a while ago can be found. Their heyday was quite a few years ago when Robert Parker raved about the reds and said that Vignelaure was a “showpiece” property not only of Provence, but in all of France. The estate suffered from some neglect in subsequent years but is thriving now. I will be talking to Philippe Bru soon and will clarify.

  1658. It looks like a very fun event! You should mention to your readers that another advantage of drinking a rosé in the winter (at least, in the Northeast) is that one can keep a case of rosé perfectly chilled on the back porch!

    • Well, on these sub-zero days, you would have to drink that rosé on your porch pretty quickly! And, that’s not a bad idea!
      There are some upcoming opportunities to attend a La Nuit en Rosé events–try to make one!

  1659. What a fun event – I really wish I could have joined you (minus the snow-covered roads, of course). Maybe I will have to look into the LA event in May. Towny, the photos are absolutely perfect – really capturing the elegance of the evening. Boxed rosé? Now, I am curious about that…

    • It was really fun! As you said to me in another conversation, it was exactly the target audience for the “#RoséAllYear” message.
      The boxed wine was good. There are, as you probably know, quite a few advantages to buying wine in a box, compared to a bottle. For one, the wine will keep better and much longer in a box. Someday, I will do a story on vin en boite!

  1660. Such a wonderful (and sexy, really) impression of this outstanding event. Besides being a “summer” drink, I think rosé is taking on a festive, beckoning, suggestive personality and this article conveys that atmosphere. Very lovely photos and narrative. Would LOVE to attend this gorgeous nuit!

  1661. I suppose this means a road trip to Bormes in my very near future to report on the new millésime. Ho-hum. Anything for the PWZ team.

  1662. A box of wine, referred to as a cubi (ku-bee) here, can be found in most homes in Provence (well, the one’s I’ve been invited into), even those of wine connoisseurs. And some of the best vineyards are doing them. Very popular at parties, art openings, village fêtes, etc. A rosé en cubi in every fridge!

  1663. This belongs in Goings On About Town! Eloquent coverage of what sounds and looks like a beautiful event that was worth braving the cold to attend.

  1664. Sacre bleu! Releasing the day after St. Valentin’s day? That faux pas must have cost them 500 or so cases that could have been sold in the run-up to the big day?

  1665. Every day is Valentine’s Day when there’s a bottle of rosé from Château Léoube on the table? Vraiment, what were they thinking?

    • I guess it just comes down to it not being all that special over there. Plus, there is this image that Frenchmen are into spoiling their girls all year long, so why make a big deal on this one day.

  1666. Hi Susan,
    Loved your narrative and your knowledge of marc vieux. I was given a present of “marc vieux du Pere Dominigue”. I tried to source information on it, but failed. Have you heard of it? I believe it to be rather old as there is no UPC to help my investigation.

  1667. SUPERBE REPORTAGE AVEC TOP PHOTOS ! C’EST COMME CELA QU’ON AIME L’AMÉRIQUE : PLURIEL… TENDRESSES, PIERROT

  1668. After reading this fascinating truffle tree story I must go back and re-think my idea of getting a star named after me for future generations of Clark’s, and related kith and kin, to peruse under a telescope. A personal truffle breeding tree in the Midi is sometime not to just look upon, and likely will be standing for several hundred years.

  1669. George McQuilken February 21, 2016 at 3:22 pm

    Charles Martel was my Great X38 Grandfather. Perhaps he should have held on to this particular property for me.

  1670. George, What fun to know this connection…good to have M. Martel on one’s side, it sounds like! Perhaps a trip to this estate is in order, walk among the footsteps of your ancestor, see what became of the land he and the Franks pillaged all those years ago, while you are tasting wine in today’s beautiful environs!

  1671. Oh, I can almost smell that pasta all the way here in Tucson! I am now seriously thinking of adoption… 🙂

  1672. Wonderful, so loved the photos!! I will visit this next time I am in Provence

  1673. Looks incredible! I’d love to be in your shoes! And what did you drink with your pasta??

    • It was incredible (and still is, as we still have some truffle butter to play with). With the Spaghetti Carbonar, we had a 2001 Cotes-du-Rhone Villages Rasteau from Tardieu-Laurent, courtesy of fellow PWZ writer, Jerry. Fabulous combination! For the Penne, we had a simple Cotes-du-Rhone Villages from Famille Perrin, which was also a lovely marriage although missing the robust elegance of the first red wine. These two meals will certainly be highlights of the winter for us!

  1674. Thanks for the memories! The truffle tour at Les Patras last year was a highlight of the tour (one of many!).

    • Mary, That was a terrific evening, wasn’t it? We will take the tour groups there again this summer and perhaps to the “Grape Stomp” if we do the tour in September!

  1675. Great article! Since we have a house in the general area (near Cucuron), I am fascinated by the history of the area, so was intrigued to hear about the extinct volcano and the Roman remains, etc. Am saving a copy of the article for that reason, and also because I dearly want to see the gardens and taste the prestige wine. This will definitely be on our list of places to go when we are there in July.

  1676. Pagnol had a clever way infusing Provence culture, language and humour in every one of his stories. I enjoyed the video clip of Le Schpountz and the following clip from La Fille du Puisatier. I had no idea Fernandel could sing and Raimu speaks with a genuine Provencal accent. I look him up and discovered he was from Toulon–no wonder!

    • From what little I know personally of the struggle to be an actor, it seems that they train early in song and dance to assist in finding opportunities to perform. But like you I was surprised when Fernandel breaks out in song (words by Pagnol?) I love the clip, and have watched it a dozen times since finding it recently. As to Raimu, I had no idea the accent came naturally to him. Thanks for your research on him.

  1677. Jerry – you have named a few of my all-time favorite films here, and also given me a list of movies I have never seen, much less heard of. I agree with you that the big screen cannot be replaced in a home theatre – but big screen viewing has changed so much over the years. Now, it is so hard to enjoy a movie in peace and quiet, sans cell phone lights and beeps… The new fad of restaurant service during a film appalls me more than anything. I miss the days of reverence for what we see on the screen.

    Also, I recently watched a movie at the home of friends who had all the latest technology – including high definition (HD) viewing. I really didn’t like it, as it seemed to take away the magic of the movie. It looked like it was a harshly lit, badly filmed soap opera. I prefer the slightly dimmer, softer hued version of my antiquated DVD player.

    Thanks for a wonderful post!

    • David,
      I am totally in sync with you about move toward pampered viewers in the cinema of today. It’s not for us. Presently we are seeing good films at a winter film festival in a neighboring town. Its in a wonderfully renovated 3,000 seat theatre built in the 1920’s. We sit in the balcony for each performance.
      One of our daughters gave us her HD tv as she went for something with even more capabilities (no clue what they are). I told my wife there was no way I was discarding our twelve year old tv, and moved it to the guest bedroom. Benedicte is not into old films, as I am, so that tv is for my own use. Eight of the last twelve dvd’s I have watched have been black and white, and three of those silent movies. I am a very happy camper.

      • I am with you on the BW films, Jerry, although I haven’t seen a silent film in years. When I was at the Eastman School of Music, I performed in an orchestra that accompanied silent films. It was wonderful!

        • That would have been great fun. I watched a Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. recently, to piano only accompaniment. But it worked. Was it a line from Norma Desmond on the silent era, about faces, not voices?
          There is orchestra put to good effect with one of my favorites – He, Who Gets Slapped (1924). Lon Chaney, Sr. and a young Norma Shearer. The entrance into the circus ring of the 60+ clowns is alone worth the price of the dvd.

  1678. I had no idea about the volcano! How interesting. What a lovely, inviting tour you were provided. What a gorgeous place to stroll about. Great piece!

  1679. It is exactly this kind of logic that I’ve inherited (wonder from whom), and gets me in trouble all the time…

    • Now, now. Every so often I evidence a practical side, which finding better priced dental care certainly qualifies. In fact on the medical care side I see that Americans are now being encouraged to negotiate cash discounts for hospital procedures so that insurance providers lessen a propensity to charge excessively.

  1680. Karen Navarre March 2, 2016 at 8:53 am

    I attended that memorable party, as all the Clarks’ parties are memorable, and flipped crepes as I sipped wine that I am certain was surely blessed by Bacchus. I did my required homework for this themed event, Pagnol’s story about the heroine who plugged and unplugged the springs. I will tell you no more about Pagnol’s story for the real stories of love and life have come from the Clark’s delightful soirees filled with music, joy, laughter, merriment, good cheer and fine wine . . . sparkling and non.

  1681. George McQuilken March 2, 2016 at 4:35 am

    I consider the Rose winegrowers like Tennyson’s Light Brigade, “Oh what a charge they made.” Times have changed irreversibly since Peter Mayle would bring his own jug and a few coins to the wine coop in Menerbes. As you say, “From January 2015 to January 2016, Provence rosé imports to this country have grown 58% on volume and 74% on value.” Plot this ratio over a decade or two and all of us old time rock and rollers will be back to drinking wine spodee-o-dee down in the alley.

  1682. Bravo! Pagnol is classic. Jean de Florette/Manon des Sources, to be sure.

    But also: La Gloire de Mon Père et Le Château de Ma Mère sont également célèbres!

    Vive Pagnol: Bon Anniversaire!

    -Henri

    • Merci Henri,
      We have yet to watch La Gloire de Mon Père and Le Château de Ma Mère, and will not wait until his birthday next year to do so. As our daughters would intone – Provence Rocks!

    • Henri, Your comment prompted me to go to our DVD collection to confirm that we have those two films on DVD. i have not seen either one in many years so I got them out to watch soon…perhaps this evening!

  1683. Karen Navarre March 2, 2016 at 1:33 pm

    By the way, do you remember what wines you served that evening?

    • You challenge me Karen. It started with a sparkler, as is our tradition, and the only other I can now recall was Domaine de Travellon 1985. The poster of Pagnol’s film Marius I bought and displayed for the occasion rests in the wine cellar. The illustrator/artist Albert Dubout is a favorite of mine.

  1684. Bravo Susan! This is the most informative piece I have ever seen written on where Rosé is at in the US. You don’t get this kind or reporting on it at Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast, for reasons I don’t quite understand. Perhaps a Che Guevara is needed to get a guerrilla movement going before they take notice.
    Given that restaurants in the US for the most part have not bought into serving Rosé by the glass, the upside for added growth here is huge. Imagine going into any place serving food in France and not seeing it offered by the glass, demi-pichet, pichet or bottle. Buvons du Rosé!

  1685. As you know, I love Pagnol as well although I am certainly not as familiar with his work as you are. We have watched Jean de la Florette and Manon many times and we also own the DVDs that Henri mentioned but have not seen them for many years. It is a dark rainy day in our neck of the woods–perhaps this evening will find us having dinner with Pagnol on the small screen!

  1686. As one who leads tours in the Var and has been saying ‘this is the oldest wine producing region in France’ to everyone’s disbelief, it is good to be validated. You have written the best article I have ever read on the subject of rosé. I am passing it on to all our guests as required reading! Bravo!

  1687. Karen Navarre March 2, 2016 at 6:01 pm

    I love an excuse to get all dressed up and experience your wine selection. Some of the wines I have had at your house have that feeling of true love. I remember that first taste and can’t stop smiling.

  1688. Susan! So many lovely images and impressions here. The event in Chicago was an excellent slate representing the depth and capability of Provence wines. Not only were the rosés a lesson in reserved elegance and delightful taste, but the few reds (and the one or two whites) available for tasting may indicate that rosé might be the impression-maker for drinkers that haven’t discovered all the region has to offer. So many inspiring and dedicated winemakers!

    Great piece, happy to have been a part of this! And of course…looking forward to drinking more of the 2015s!

  1689. As if I needed an excuse! Is there a National Pastis Day, too?

  1690. Not a pastis day yet, to my knowledge. But there is a move afoot to weaken it with a slight bit more water than normal, and refer to it as a “piscine.” In the bar I frequent in Cucuron I would not have the courage to order it. The stares I would likely receive would turn braver men to stone.

  1691. This sounds like a very robust & complex meal experience. I love pairing rosé with food and this exotic & hearty stew is so tempting!

  1692. Soo excited to see this Moroccan soup recipe. First because for me winter and soup have always gone hand and hand. Secondly, I have been holding on to a tube of harrisa since we returned to the US in 1994, and immediately thought it can be part of this. So now the $64 question. If I get Ben to prepare harira will it be a sacrilege if I add in some harissa?

    • Jerry – I don’t think a little harissa would hurt this soup at all! Not being sure how strong your harissa is, I would start with a small amount – perhaps a teaspoon. Then you can gauge how much more or less you might want. Non appétit!

  1693. So many rosés, so little time! This is definitely one to bookmark for future purchases/imbibing! The photos are great (although a couple didn’t come through…) and I loved the infographic on French consumption of rosé wine.

    • P.S. – I agree with Jerry – this is an incredible piece of wine journalism. YOU should write for the Wine Spectator!

  1694. What a beautiful property. Oh, right. Beau Lieu. Duh… I love that you had this visit, which primed me for reading about the tasting you had weeks later.

  1695. What a charming notion, and how it would help us all. But no need to replace the terms “plonk” or “pinard” until we displace Old World names with new local names for New World wines, something their excellence has earned.

    • I could not agree more. “Just bring a plonk” is a great way to tell company that they enter an abode where good basic wine, from wherever, is appreciated.

  1696. As the Brits would say, “Brilliant!” I will gladly volunteer to be a “plonking” judge. I mean “what the plonk” (WTP), who wouldn’t want such a prestigious title and honor. “Plink, plank, plonk” – I came, I saw, I tasted (with apologies to Julius Caesar)

  1697. Great thought, in fact lets both set up as plonk judges. Given the number of neighboring Connecticut, Rhode Island and Massachusetts vineyards there should be no problem getting candidate wineries. With two wines from each we find a hall, and Bob’s your uncle.

  1698. et voilà ! – but “find a hall!?” The wine might be cheap, I mean well-priced, but the venue does not have to be. We do this at the 5-star Ocean House. Maybe they would donate the facilities for the PR? Probably not, but the vineyards might – we could invite the well-known celebrity who lives next door to the OH to be the third judge – – a young rose between 2 old thorns. WTP, what do we have to loose… ???

  1699. Yes, Ocean House has the rep, as does the neighbor. There was a time when next to the original Ocean House there was also a famous female personage, at least that is what I remember hearing back in the day. A local lass, she returned to town from NYC and bought the Tudor style house that is still there. Watch Hill definitely great choice.

  1700. I’ll have to make a special place in the basement for the new wine cellar – dubbed the Plonk Room.

  1701. And it won’t need a lock. Nor special home insurance rider for first growth wine.

  1702. Fun aside, it really would be nice to have some kind of a roster of reliably good but cheap wine. We end up drinking a fair amount of Australian, and usually shoot for under $10 per bottle ourselves. Last night we were surprised to find that the Costco house red was actually pretty decent.

    With the exchange rates where they are right now, the European wines definitely have an advantage they didn’t have a few years ago.

    • Yes, there is a significant price benefit with the exchange rates. The question is how much is being passed along to the consumer. Buyers of premium wines don’t pay all that much attention to this, worrying more about allocations of top foreign wine to the US market. From what you are suggesting about Costco, it would appear they are sensitive to benefit of euro rates for their clientele.

  1703. Jerry – This is a great idea. We really enjoyed the movie “Bottle Shock” about the tasting you mention, although I am sure it was romanticized for the big screen. But, considering your concept, perhaps we need to raise the bar just a little higher than Charles Shaw?? Perhaps some $3 offerings at Total Wine?

    • Our house white is Chardonnay from Crane Lake. We can readily find it here in Connecticut at 5 bucks. To date I have only seen snippets of “Bottle Shock.” But I believe the French have yet to get over it.

  1704. I am easily influenced when it comes to wine. Every article you write makes my mouth water! I am on a mission for a single grape red.

  1705. Such a beautiful trip though the markets! I need a bigger basket:)

    I’m a fan of the St. Remy-de-Provence market (our Provençal home-away-from-home) and we are utterly charmed by the Eygalières market — and of course the local wine there (you know I love DTB!).

    Just lovely — gorgeous photos & delish details. Life is good!

  1706. I too am on a mission, with a Navarre named Jacques. We are on a tour of vineyards in the Rhone Valley. Red wine abounds!

  1707. Domaine des Vaudois viognier was one of my favorites on the tour last summer. I must admit, I ave had the same response as you have had to the Viogniers in the past—until I tasted this. Thanks for the great article!

  1708. I am really fascinated by the differences between the U.S. Viogniers and those from France. Until I tasted one, I never even thought about how much the terroir could affect any wine. (Yes, I knew terroir makes a difference but never thought it would be that much!) I learned a good lesson that way, for sure. Someday, I hope to taste the Condrieu!

  1709. And then there is the point of aging a dry white wine. This past Monday night at my brother in law’s home outside Paris, where I have a stock of wine, I brought up a 1996 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu to accompany an Asian chicken dish his wife Laurence prepared. The color had hardly changed. And the flavor all there. If I were rating it the score would be 8.5/10.I had not planned to hold it this long, but no regret that I did.

  1710. Another wonderful post from the Provence Wine Zine! Such a lovely and educational evening…

  1711. I love a recipe that starts with:
    The first thing you need to do is book a flight to the South of France!

  1712. This is an absolutely moving story, and I’m appreciation of the alignment that brought you to this memorial. Thank you so much for sharing this. What a winemaking life to reflect upon.

  1713. Life comprises a myriad of special moments. Of all my stops along the wine trail this may turn out to be the most memorable.

  1714. Fascinating, thanks!

  1715. As Jill wrote above, the serendipity of it all is exceptional. What a memorable experience. So glad you shared it!

  1716. I recently recreated Babette’s Cailles en Sarcophages – renaming it Quails in nests…still think the original name is unappetizing. Accidentally served it with Pinot Noir by pure happenstance. We had a Malbec, a Cab and the Pinot. Totally at a lost I took a swig of each and chose the Pinot as the least offensive, ha! For us it’s back to Cornish Game hens stuffed with cranberries, pea on, pinenuts and the crusts of homemade sourdough bread…I guess we’re simple folk (0:

  1717. I recently recreated Babette’s Cailles en Sarcophages – renaming it Quails in nests…still think the original name is unappetizing. Accidentally served it with Pinot Noir by pure happenstance. We had a Malbec, a Cab and the Pinot. Totally at a lost I took a swig of each and chose the Pinot as the least offensive, ha! For us it’s back to Cornish Game hens stuffed with cranberries, peacon, pinenuts and the crusts of homemade sourdough bread…I guess we’re simple folk (0:

  1718. There is magical light streaming through my Portsmouth window this morning as April snowflakes sparkle and glisten. My eyes are drawn back and forth from my window to your photos of hearty soup, people of the high Atlas Mountains (link) and your robust and surprising rose. Thank you for sharing these photos, thoughts and the recipe. I will try your warm soup recipe on this cold spring day and search for my own Provence pairing.

    • Heidi – I thought I was reading an old comment from February when you mentioned snow… I think harira is a perfect soup for a day like today, and if you can’t find the perfect rosé, you can try a Côtes du Rhône, as it pairs well with try soup, too. Let me know what you think! ~ David (And stay warm!!)

  1719. Thank you for sharing this personal story.

  1720. Jerry, you have a wonderful way with words! Each of your articles seem to be fascinatingly full of details (historical and current) and personalities that draw the reader into the story and experience being described. This article is no different and captures well a different experience entirely. It is a nicely done article. (By the way, say “Hello” to Jacques Navarre for me—I did not realize that he was a business associate of yours.) Gerry Nathe

  1721. Gerry,
    Thank you for your comments. The world of wine is such a contrast from the graphic arts industry in which we labored so long. But I am finding great satisfaction there as well. Jacques is visiting me tomorrow and I will pass along your hello.

  1722. I was first taken with the beauty of it all. Then a sense of serenity takes over. Simple rooms or not, I would love to stay there.

  1723. Karen Navarre April 4, 2016 at 9:04 am

    Oh my! Wonderful, interesting and informative — just what I was looking for! Someone from Provence Wine Zine read my mind and gave me what I needed to comfortably walk into a wine store to make a selection. I feel more competent about asking for what I want or what I want to try in a wine. Thank you, thank you! Gerald, this article made my day! Just for the record, I even wrote down some notes.

  1724. It is indeed a beautiful place. I can’t wait to write about the wine, too, as they really have a unique palette of flavors owing to its location. I was very disappointed not to be able to stay there.

  1725. Karen Navarre April 4, 2016 at 9:30 am

    This article made me cry for its sensitivity and respect for a man who is only physically gone. What strength he needed to be a diabetic in an industry that demands so much of your body. Diabetics are forced to pick and choose carefully what goes into their bodies, which proves Mr. Bonneau, as a winemaker, had to be discerning and could only make choices that provided the best results. I want to drink what he drank and take my last breath knowing that I have left a light shining, just like Mr. Bonneau. Thank you, Jerry! Thank you, Mr. Bonneau!

  1726. Denise Rheault April 4, 2016 at 4:58 pm

    Wonderful article about Lourmarin. I too have read and enjoyed the Mayles adventures in the Luberon. When I found out many years ago that the BBC had created a mini series based on Peter’s books I had to have it. It arrived in the mail on a Saturday morning. I remember being so excited that I raced through the house to get to the TV to play the first episode…many …and I do mean many hours later my husband And I Finished viewing the last episode. I want to say that it was probably 12 to 15 episodes. We staggered out of the room blurry eyed and in love with the Luberon. Incredibly we watched the entire series again in one day about a month later. In the years since we have traveled to many Cities, Towns and villages in the South of France but never to Lourmarin and I can’t think why we never visited this iconic village of Peter Mayles musings. Thank you for describing it so beautifully. It makes me long for France and even more excited for our visit to Paris this May.

  1727. Thank you, Susan – for a wonderful piece about the island, and also for the Liqueur Sénancole! It was a real treat, made all teh more special by the story you tell of this magical place. I am really looking forward to the wine article!

  1728. So much wine we need to try! Congrats to all the winners!

  1729. When living in Lyon we made the trek once to the famous location near Grenoble. Learned they also produced in Spain at one time (perhaps still do). Also seem to recall learning there that they could take a walk on a Sunday afternoon periodically and have a chat if desired. Another souvenir of that visit was being shown a typical room where they live and thinking that in contrast my room at the frat house would have seemed to them like the Pope’s sleeping quarters.

    • Wow, Jerry – the frat house -> monastic cell is scary! I never did get to visit the abbey there, but I drank my share of both the green and yellow Chartreuse! Thanks for sharing your story!

  1730. How much fun! I wish I could go through the whole island!

  1731. Pamela O'Neill April 18, 2016 at 2:39 pm

    Not just saying this because I’m a born again cheerleader for Léoube wines, I swear, but this is one of your best articles. I especially like the nerdy bits on climate comparisons of Cabernet Franc growing regions. And Susan, I know you have another bottle of Collector lurking in your cellar. Save some for me!

    • It’s so easy to be a cheerleader for this château, isn’t it! With the number of research and stat classes we have under our belts, we could do a lot more with the climate if we had the data! Thanks for your nice comments — you wouldn’t have ulterior motives…in the shape of a certain bottle, would you?

      • Pamela O'Neill May 17, 2016 at 9:23 am

        I shant comment on ulterior motives, though there may be some lurking. I will, however, heartily agree with your tasting notes as I had the pleasure of tasting the new Collector at Château Léoube’s open house this weekend. Plummy, silky, spicey. Even lovelier than last year’s.

  1732. Thank you for pointing out the minefield that embodies the French classification system. It seems with Lord Bamford we see another maverick in the making. Looking forward to seeking out Leoube Collector on next visit to the area.

    • A full post could be devoted to this subject! We just added a new section to the Provence appellation information, detailing the regulations re grapes for each of the appellations…check it out! At the top of the page, the new information is under “resources” and then “wine regions of France,” then click on “Provence.” Thanks for the comment, Jerry!

  1733. Great article Susan, as you know it’s a winery close to my own art!!

  1734. Hi Caroline! I do know you are a big fan as well! Whe we finally get together, I know there will be a bottle of Léoube at the table–we will just need to settle on the color!

  1735. I agree with Pamela – this is a great article. But, from the foodie POV, that steak with the crêpes looked amazing! I think I need that recipe to put on Cocoa & Lavender!

    • I will get the recipes to you. The crêpes are from “Bocuse in Your Kitchen: Simple French recipes for the Home Chef” by Paul Bocuse (1982), reissued in English by Flammarion. It is indeed simple! the meat, also simple is adapted from Auguste Escoffier’s “Le Guide Culinaire” and was published in “The Week,” a publication I subscribed to quite a few Years ago. Also, pretty simple! Thanks for the kind words!

  1736. What an honour to see the workings of such a wonderful vineyard as shown here with Marc Perrin, enjoyed it.

    • So nice to see your name pop up, Paul! The visit and conversation with Marc Perrin was really a wonderful experience. Do watch for an upcoming article about the bottling plant…it might sound pedestrian however it was anything but!

  1737. In addition to the professionalism of the Perrin family regarding organic wine making, I admire their working belief of looking at the long perspective of family and future generations.

    • Those factors are very much integral to the philosophy and the workings of Famille Perrin and Chateau de Beaucastel. Very admirable indeed. We’ll have to share a bottle over dinner! Thank you, Mary!

  1738. Wonderful! C’etait un vrai plaisir de recontrer Marc Perrin, and oh la la what remarkable winemaking facilities… As a relative novice in your subject area, I came away with new appreciation for the amount of thought behind every single element of taste in a bottle of Perrin wines… I am grateful to have tagged along.

  1739. In October of 2013 we were fortunate to be in the south of France and visit Chateauneuf-du-pape and sample a white and several reds.
    It was a magical place and great wine. I remember those stones out with the vines!

    • Susan Manfull May 2, 2016 at 4:58 pm

      Hi Linda, Magical is the operative word! I still remember the first time I saw those stones covering the vineyards–I couldn’t believe my eyes! Thanks for checking in!

  1740. Excellent story of a family that has developed quite a track record of growth from its small base in CdP. I am still uncertain about the whole 13 grape thing, and suspect it has provided little if any assurance in gaining them a 100 point score for the red. In leading the AOC development in ’36 I believe Baron Le Roy stacked the deck in the villages favor for economic reasons, and not due to terroir. How many properties used all those grapes back then? Likely less than 5% do today.

    • It sounds like the start of a new post! To further complicate matters, different colors of the same grape variety are listed as separate grapes in the official regulations. So that the original 13 are now listed as 18! See the newly added section on permissible grapes in each appellation under “Resources” under the PWZ banner or click here: https://www.provencewinezine.com/aop-chateauneuf-du-pape/ . (We have finished the lists for the Provence region and are nearing completion of the lists in the Rhone.) Thanks Jerry!

  1741. What a great tour, Susan! I had all but forgotten about the Vanity Fair kerfuffle – it seems so long ago! How gracious of him to welcome you for such a day! One thing I never knew – that there are 13 grape varietals in Châteauneuf-du-Pape – no wonder it is so complex! Also, isn’t it a bit discouraging that a seven-year old can both speak French and smell the bouquet of a wine better than we can? Sigh…

    • Susan Manfull May 2, 2016 at 5:03 pm

      Hi David, Regarding the 13 grapes, please read my reply to Jerry on that! Regarding the young Perrin fils, as Alex and I listened to Marc’s story, I had to tell her that I was sorry I had not thought to do the same for her! Thanks for your thoughts!

  1742. It’s easy to overlook how ultra complex the assemblage becomes when dealing with vins de garde – with the idiosyncracies of each vintage and grape variety, how does one project what will evolve years down the road? Boggles my amateur brain! I’ll be happy to take you up on that offer to hear Marc’s comments on the maligned Vanity Fair article over a glass of Miraval rosé.

    • Susan Manfull May 2, 2016 at 5:19 pm

      We’d better have a bottle for that conversation! Regarding your thoughts about blending…yes, I was fascinated as Marc talked about it and remain astonished how accomplished winemakers are able to do it. Osmotically, it seems. Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

  1743. Generally speaking, the co-ops are struggling financially these days. Thus I feel certain La Motte was pleased to find this angel, whispering or otherwise.

  1744. very interesting! Was it a disused Coop or one that was still functioning? Nice to hear also that the word negociant is beginning to be used with a bit of pride, after all a lot of the skill that makes for a great final result is in the selection, assemblage and the rather dull but super important quality control downstream. smile emoticon

  1745. Susan Manfull May 5, 2016 at 1:02 pm

    Hi Jeany, I neglected to confirm that explicitly but I gather it was not in use. I wholeheartedly agree with the points you make….Mirabeau is a case in point!

  1746. Mary Norcross May 8, 2016 at 8:30 am

    The dinner and wine tasting at La Voile were fun and tasty! I wish I had room to finish off my Creme Brulee! The rosés were very pleasing and meeting Sacha Lichine to discuss his wines was very informative.

    • Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:28 pm

      Hi Mary, It was a vibrant atmosphere, wasn’t it? But, with such good food and good rosés flowly throughout the evening–not to mention the company of Sacha himself, what’s not to be fun?

  1747. I had the good fortune to attend the tasting and the heavenly experience of sipping the 2013 Garrus. Sacha Lichine is a true master. I have never tasted as fine a rose.

    • Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:30 pm

      Heidi, I have a fabulous photo of you and Garrus–it’s a picture worth a thousand words!

  1748. I loved this post! I want to find the wine and try it with these recipes to see if I can discover the beautiful notes that David describes.

  1749. david your photos are always amazing… an uplifting reminder than summer does in fact exist, as i sit here in mist, wrapped in a blanket of humidity in nyc

    • Oh, Alex – I really feel for you and remember that feeling that I would never be warm or dry again! Come to Tucson and take a sunshine break!

  1750. Hmmm. Salmon or rack of lamb. Rack of lamb or salmon. Decisions, decisions. David, which did you think paired best with the Petale?

    • Life is so hard, Jerry! To be honest, I think the salmon paired best with the Pétale de Rose- they brought out the best in each other. However, I wouldn’t shun the lamb/Pétale pairing, if offered!

  1751. Joanne Knight May 15, 2016 at 9:01 pm

    Great story Susan!

    • Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:37 pm

      Thanks, Joanne! There’s a lot of the story I left out…will fill in the pieces over a glass of wine sometime soon!

  1752. I really enjoyed this story. If only you could send me some wine electronically, the experience would be complete.

    • Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:39 pm

      Maybe not electronically…but, soon, I could arrange for a drone to drop it off! Thanks for popping by, Lisa, with such nice feedback!

  1753. Pamela O'Neill May 17, 2016 at 8:58 am

    Beautiful job, Susan. Your tasting notes propel me to jump in my car and head to Château Vignelaure with great haste. In response to your comments on Provence reds and whites, I cannot see how the growing popularity of the rosés can do anything but enhance awareness and broaden the target market for all of the region’s wines as well as bring a greater number of individual domains to the attention of buyers. Prior to the “rosé revolution” there were very few Provence vineyards known outside of Provence. I also imagine that the new found capital from rosé sales is a godsend for many vineyards and bodes well for augmenting both quality and quantity of red and white wine production in the future.

    • Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:51 pm

      I agree with your thoughts about the “other colors” benefiting from the outstanding marketing of “Provence Rosé.” Some folks are concerned, with reason, that vines previously dedicated to red and white wines may be yanked out in favor of those for rosé. Bru’s sentiments about “education” are echoed by others, too, and that without it, reds and whites can’t make the jump. There was certainly a lot of education that contributed to the pink revolution! Lots to talk about! Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

  1754. Pamela O'Neill May 17, 2016 at 9:07 am

    Totally facinating that you would find the addition of fennel in one pairing and hazelnut in another! Very different flavors. Nice to know that the rosé held up to the lamb, for which one typically reaches for a red to accompany.

    • I find it truly interesting how food changes the taste of the wine, and vice-versa, Pam! I, too, like red with my lamb, but thought I would give rosé a try, and it worked!

  1755. Love this! And thanks for the link back to the pairing I did with the roasted pork! It would be fun to taste some of their other wines!

  1756. How wonderful that you had a chance to speak with him before everyone arrived! Maybe I knew how much they produced, but when you see the numbers, and comparison to other rosé producers, it is extraordinary.

  1757. How fun to revisit some of my favorite markets, many of which I visited with you all! Mark and I have started re-reading Peter Mayle’s works – so enjoyable and the antithesis of those who tried to do the same about Tuscany.

  1758. Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:34 pm

    Hi David, It is an extraordinary success story. Against the backdrop of his father, Alexis Lichine, and the disbelief of many when Sacha made the move to Provence, it is a remarkable story, too.

  1759. Susan Manfull May 18, 2016 at 1:55 pm

    That roasted pork is so exquisite…I love your recipe for that! Now, I must try it with Vignelaure! Will you be in the neighborhood anytime soon?!

  1760. I did not know history of this property and efforts of George Brunet to instill Cabernet Sauvignon in Provence. It seems he had significant influence on the better known Durrbach. The logo at top of Vignelaure label to me is a riff on Philippe Rothschild of Ch. Mouton Rothschild, who effectively used the symbol of the ram at his estate. Perhaps it was Brunet’s homage to Rothschild, who in his lengthy efforts to re-classify his second growth status inscribed on each label “Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis.” Whatever Brunet’s motivation, I like the logo.

  1761. Pamela O'Neill May 19, 2016 at 11:31 am

    I’m please for you, Jerry, that fate intervened allowing you to pay last respects to someone you respected so much in life. What a thing to happen upon. Lovely article.

  1762. Pam,
    Thank you. I don’t think I can ever again drink a wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape without remembering that day.

  1763. Such fun and amazing wine and company!

  1764. As I mentioned on Facebook, I should have been there! Looks like a wonderful tasting. The photos were amazing! Some of Towny’s best work.

  1765. Pamela O'Neill June 1, 2016 at 7:21 am

    This event is sure to attract young hip New Yorkers who will spread the word on Provence wine. I’d be going if still in NY (OK, not so young!). I’ll be anxious to hear how it turns out.

    • Hi Pamela — The event will welcome up to 8,000 people over the course of one weekend. All of them will be drinking only rosé!

      I agree that this will certainly spread the word (and picture) about rosé in general & Provence in specific.

      Thanks for your comment!

  1766. Pamela O'Neill June 1, 2016 at 7:38 am

    These wines are a bit out of my usual budget but sound devine. Should have been at the tasting but too far, even for your Bouillabaisse. Perhaps I’ll have to go accompany you in June when you visit the domaine!

  1767. I just visited the winery the other day, and I am continually impressed by the wines. I think the $5-10 upgrade from the Whispering Angel to the Rock Angel is certainly worth it, but unfortunately the latter proves to be far more difficult to procure.

  1768. I’m so pleased to see Emmanuelle’s wines featured here. I’m an admirer! What a lovely pairing. Toast time!

  1769. Pamela O'Neill June 7, 2016 at 7:57 am

    Hi David. I love your fun and witty style. Makes me want what you’re having! I’ve seen this bottle in the stores and will certainly nab one next time. Thanks for the tip.

    • Pam – my first comment seems to have disappeared! I am so glad you enjoy my work as much as I enjoy writing it! I hope you find a bottle of Campanets, and that you let me know how you lies it!

  1770. Pamela O'Neill June 7, 2016 at 8:30 am

    Don’t know how I missed these crazy antics back in March. I have been literally hooting out loud. Last time I was back in the States, I grabbed a bottle of TJ’s Two Buck Chuck, as I was appalled by the price of wine, and was very pleasantly surprised that it didn’t burn my tongue. I think they’re brilliant, and oh so kind, to offer a cheap and cheerful plonk to poor soif Americans. Thank you for the laughter therapy!

  1771. Claire Schmidt Jones June 10, 2016 at 11:01 pm

    The wonderful thing in life is to be able to take advantage of Where you are when you are There. In doing that you encounter and remember the richest moments. Thank you for taking me to that experience so far away from where I am.

  1772. Patti Thornton June 11, 2016 at 6:15 am

    Hello from sunny and warm Provence! Coincidentally, I had the pleasure of sharing a Croque Monsieur with the Manfulls on the patio of a lovely patisserie in Grimaud yesterday afternoon. Susan and I too reminisced to our school days when we too learned to make this tasty treat.

  1773. Rosé’s are indeed a wonderful summer time wine. Although not in France, I just read up on a wine tasting event taking place in Napa Valley, CA where Stag’s Leap is introducing a new Rosé. I would have loved to taste these wines from Château Saint-Maur Cru, they sound wonderful!
    Cheers!

  1774. Claire,
    Mother was fond of saying things happen for a reason. I just knew I had to return to his service. There were too many signs laid out before me to ignore.

  1775. Great read… Great wine.. Thank you!

  1776. Amazing stuff. Picasso would have been a fan.

    • Yes, very much so, and, in fact, Marc reminded me of the Picasso I know only through books and film clips.

  1777. David,Towny and I made these delicious fritters for the Fourth of July and LOVED them. I know Miraval rosé would be lovely accompaniment but we went for another fave Provence rosé which was also a perfect match! We will make these again!

  1778. I have only heard of one of Ivey’s books – La Vie en Rosé – but admit I haven’t read it yet. I will have to seek them out – they sound fun! It is a shame that printed magazines have gone away to a great extent – nothing is better to spur one’s imagine and wanderlust than flipping through a magazine with beautiful photos. Glad you had the opportunity to catch up with him while you were in the ‘hood!

  1779. Christopher Scopes July 14, 2016 at 3:57 am

    I had a bottle of their 2010 Red on Sunday with Beef Wellington, it was perfect accompaniment, well aired in a Carafe we had bought from the lovely Amanda at Brecon Estate in Paso Robles. I sell (well try to) leather for a living so I was interested to read about the shoe connection. Do you know if Christopher welcomes visitors?
    PS Pamela seemed to be having a good time. 🙂

  1780. I love this one by an old friend.

    Don’t Let That Horse . .
    BY LAWRENCE FERLINGHETTI

    Don’t let that horse
    eat that violin

    cried Chagall’s mother

    But he
    kept right on
    painting

    And became famous

    And kept on painting
    The Horse With Violin In Mouth

    And when he finally finished it
    he jumped up upon the horse
    and rode away
    waving the violin

    And then with a low bow gave it
    to the first naked nude he ran across

    And there were no strings
    attached

    Lawrence Ferlinghetti, “Don’t Let That Horse…” from A Coney Island of the Mind. Copyright © 1958 by Lawrence Ferlinghetti. Reprinted with the permission of New Directions Publishing Corporation, http://www.wwnorton.com/nd/welcome.htm.

  1781. Great post Susan. I especially loved the description of the wine that you and Towny enjoyed with dinner. Beautiful!

    • Susan Manfull July 24, 2016 at 3:30 pm

      Thanks for your note, Joanne! That rosé de garde was a very special treat indeed! It is interesting to see how, now that pale dry rosé has established itself, people are exploring other possibilites such as aged rosé, darker rosés, and, good lord, well-made white zins!

  1782. This article really helped me to understand the complexity of this family! What an incredibly special family of winemakers. Thanks for the family tree-cum-organizational chart!

    And a very special thank you for all the links to the Provençal Pairings!

    • Susan Manfull July 24, 2016 at 3:35 pm

      Hi David,
      I just noticed that the caption for the “family tree-cum-organizational chart” did not appear. What I had written was that I was compelled to sketch something on paper because I could not retain the various connections in my head! I also wrote that I welcomed any additions and/or amendments! It is complicated, isn’t it?

  1783. Wow! We just saw the Chagall windows in Pocantico Hills, NY, which were rich enough, but this looks dazzling. Lucky you, getting to see it twice!

    • Hi Mark, I think I have a homunculus in my computer… I know I replied earlier but just noticed that there is no reply! Do you recommend a detour to see the Chagall windows? And, yes, “dazzling” is a great word to describe Chagall’s large but detailed images! What do you think about the next show?

      • Yes, a little detour up the hill is very much worth while if you are passing through or near Tarrytown.
        The quarry show on Bosch and Bruegel should be fabu. All that closely-observed dutch detail! But I can’t imagine anything as dreamy as floating amid the Chagall.

  1784. I think this would be the most magical way to see Chagall’s work. I can only imagine that he would have loved it.

  1785. Let’s hear it for Régine and all the lady winemakers! Could you imagine Pasteur’s publicist handing him the author list to send review copies of his Etudes Sur Vin and him questioning why their were women’s names included?

    • Susan Manfull July 27, 2016 at 5:50 pm

      Funny you should make that observation today (or, rather,that I should read it now) because just this morning, I read a review of a new book about the “Wine Family Women of Piemont.” After three years of research and interviews, the author presents the stories of 22 winemaking families in which women played significant roles behind the scenes and, only now, are emerging in public roles (such as winemakers). It sounds very interesting. But, back to your nice comment, Bravo Régine!

  1786. Albert Botter July 26, 2016 at 5:15 pm

    Dear Susan,

    Although
    we are not a direct fan of the rose wines, we tasted the Excellence rose at the chateau St. Maur last week. ( next to the white version of the Excellence)

    We were positively surprised about the very good taste of this rose and especially the combination of the weather, environment and the holidays makes this an excellent example how good life can be.

    We can already tell you a small secret; also the white wines are “excellent”

    Thanks for your nice article!

    Albert

  1787. What a beautiful way to say goodbye to a lovely man and great winemaker.

  1788. You are so fortunate to have ready access to wine co-ops. Between 5 and 10 euros there are so many good bottled wines to chose from. And the bulk wines at half that price range, or less, can offer up very acceptable everyday plonk.

  1789. I’m having friends over this evening for dinner and will try the salmon and zucchini recipe. I may have to wing it on some of the more exotic ingredients until I can get my hands on them. A good rosé sounds like a must! Thanks!

  1790. David, I was introduced to Tavel by a French friend in 1975, in Avignon; I’ve introduced it to several other friends since then. It remains one of my favorite wines. Thanks for sharing this.

    • Peter – I wish I had such good friends in 1975! It is such a delightful wine and my next pairing will be with duck! I somehow think that will be quite wonderful.

  1791. The light red comment brought a smile to my face, reminding me of a dinner in Ft. Worth almost forty years ago. We were entertaining French colleagues at a Mexican restaurant and the server asked Benoit, seated to my left, if he wanted a drink to begin the evening. He asked if they had wine by the glass and she responded both white and red. So he chose red, and then she inquired if he wanted Rosé or Burgundy. He said he wanted red, and again she gave him the same choice. So he asked why she referred to Rosé, as it clearly was not red. Sure it is she said. Rosé is red, and Burgundy is redder.

    • Jerry – that story made me laugh out loud. Red and redder. Perhaps it was a Tavel… or, more likely, Lancer’s! Not necessarily related, here is another fun restaurant story. A friend of mine, who used to recruit for the music consistory I attended, was in the Midwest looking for great musical talent. He went to a restaurant and after the server took his order, she asked if he wanted wine. Not seeing a wine list, he asked, “What kind of wine do you have?” She said she would check, went to the back, then quickly returned to tell him proudly that they had, “Vin.” Well, he wondered aloud, which kind of fun? She came back and prounounced it “Vin Fin.” Does it mention any color, he asked? After her third trip, she came back and said, “it’s Vin Fin Rose.” (No accent to be found.) “I’ll have a glass of that,” he said.

  1792. Pamela O'Neill August 8, 2016 at 8:12 am

    Whoa! Well done you in sorting through the Sumeire family history. Can’t wait to try the 2015 Barbeyrolles and La Tour de l’Évêque, and leaning toward oysters with. Maybe while you’re here in September!

    • Hi Pam, Well, we didn’t get over to the chateau to pick up some wine to go with our oysters (nor did we have the oysters, as I think about it!). But, who had time with all our wonderful interviews?!

  1793. Pamela O'Neill August 8, 2016 at 1:33 pm

    Can’t wait to try your salmon recipe David. Avec a bottle of Tavel, bien sur!

    • Thanks, Pam! Let me know what you think. How did your event go this summer?

      • Thanks for asking David, it was a grand success, with your Sautéed Shrimp on Savory Coconut-Rice Pillows apps being the hit of the fete. Went perfectly with the magnums of Mirabeau’s Pure rosé served with the little morsels. FYI – they freeze beautifully.

  1794. I’m used to spend my summer holidays in the Leoube beaches, and it’s wonderful to see the vineyards so close to the sea in a so well maintained property.
    I really enjoyed to read the history of this domain, very informative.
    Well done. Thank you.

  1795. Hi Jerry. Love this article – you brightened my day. I assume that’s you cutting the rug with a most quaffable red. Hope your having a fab time in California collecting your Wine Blog of the year award for best article!

  1796. Yes, we are in Lodi for the conference. The past 24 hours feels like a ’30’s dance marathon. Thus the dancing shoes have been getting a real workout. But the Lodi wines tunes have been amazingly energizing.

    • Well done Jerry. Make us proud out there on the dance floor!

      • Did my best, and so pleased for the effort. The wine community out here has made this a most memorable trip. Will have much to tell when I am back east tomorrow.

  1797. Jerry,
    I particularly enjoyed reading this article.It reminded me the fantastic moments you have offered us over the years with friends,enjoying so much your wine tasting parties.

    • So very many good souvenirs together of wine evenings, and the occasional blind tastings – here and in France. I am bringing wine back with me from Lodi for us to try together. You will be impressed.

  1798. I am sure that I will be excused from comments on this post! 😉 However, if you leave out the dreaded “G” you will have a perfectly lovely mayonnaise to serve with your vegetables! I actually want to try the potato version (sans ail, naturellement!) – it sounds fascinating!

    • It really is a great combo with the potatoes. Could you substitute shallots? I thought of you as I wrote this and, just so you know, I would have created a different “dip” for you!

  1799. I love it your quote, ” If enjoying wine is anything, it is a hedonistic experience.” Based on that, I have a new 2-point wine scoring system: Any glass of wine in front of me gets a “Tres Bien,” and any wine that is not gets a “Insuffisant.” it’s easy to go from “Insuffisant” to Tres Bien – just pour me a glass s’il nous plait? And make sure it’s served in fine crystal.

    • Love it, the two point system! Takes me back to Caligula standing above the gladiators. Thumb up, or down.

      • Yes, yes that’s it – the new wine scoring system -The Caligula Thumbs-Up/Thumbs Down Wine Scoring System. If it’s thumbs down, the person bringing the wine must pay for all the wines tasted during that wine tasting session- much more civilized that death, although it could still cost dearly.

        • Great material for a Ridley Scott production. I can see Russell Crowe back in Ancient Rome, as personal wine and food taster to the emperor. He slips nightshade into his goblet of Falernum, then leads an uprising of slave sous chefs.

  1800. This is a great piece, Jerry! I will adopt your motto as I have already adopted the practice! “Does it have a good beat? Is it easy to dance to?”

    I was particularly pleased to read your statement: “Some taster, as some given moment, made a personal judgment and out a number to it. Good for him, but for me?” My palate often differs with others when it comes to wine. What one person finds dry, I find sour. Another person’s “dry,” can be oddly fruity to my taste buds.

    Now, with all my curiosity, what was your $4.99 Chardonnay?

  1801. Sarah Greenland August 15, 2016 at 7:52 am

    We started visiting and staying in Lourmarin for our main holiday in 2012. We fell in love with the village and have been back every year since – twice in one year in fact! The market is a highlight and always make sure we have an extra few days added onto our usual 2 weeks so we can take full advantage of the fresh produce more than once during our stay. We are heading back there on 3 September for just over 2 weeks – can’t wait!

  1802. These past days here at the Wine Bloggers conference I have heard several negative comments about our wine score culture. Perhaps it’s real influence is on the decline. After all, Parker did sell his business.
    Our table white during the week is Crane Lake Chardonnay. Lately on weekends its one of several refreshing whites which come from the other side of Long Island Sound from us (in New York’s North Fork region).

  1803. OH – MY – GOD !!! AND THE WINNER IS… JERRY ! ONE MORE TIME…

    • I must share the credit with the producers of the thousands of French wines I have enjoyed in my life (up to now).

  1804. So close yet you didn’t stop by?!? Michael and I were just at Kivelstadt, one of his CEO buddies’ tasting rooms in Sonoma last weekend. Had we only known, we could have kidnapped you for more than blogging.

    • Of course I would have loved to be with you and Michael, however the program in Lodi was jam packed, including pre and post conference wine estate visits. For a place that built its reputation on run of the mill everyday wines (90% of its production still goes to a handful of really big players), there is an emerging number or craftsmen that need to be heard, and their comely wines tasted. Next November the conference will be in Santa Rosa, so stay tuned.

  1805. The neighborhood is so dull when you are not around. Thanks for another informative and entertaining piece that makes me want to wine and dine, but especially sip many glasses of wine! Thanks for sharing your love of life.

    • Not only am I back, but ebullient over what wonderful people I met from the Lodi wine industry. I managed to slip a few bottles I especially liked in my luggage, and will come up with a plan to try them at Chez Clark.

  1806. Frederic Chartier August 18, 2016 at 11:16 pm

    Great article, Jerry!
    Do consider that the French scoring system also includes 18-20 = “félicitations du Jury”, surely applicable to wines as well!
    Cheers,
    Fred

    • Aha, I did not know that there was an 18-20 category. But it makes perfect sense both in academics and wine.

  1807. Great to read your musings and memories on wine, Jerry. I noticed on your tasting sheet that you lived in Mystic CT. If you still live there, I was there last week and twice visited the new M Wine & Coffee Bar (full disclosure) which happens to be owned by my wife’s sister, Merrily Connery. Her husband, Michael, owns Saltwater Farm Vineyards in Stonington. Both fun places to visit! Congrats on your Blog Award! – Peter Morrell

    • Peter,
      Yes, we are still in Mystic. So far we have not yet made it to M Bar, but are planning to do so this week. Saltwater is a lovely spot. Please give us a nod on your next time in. I can show you that half bottle you sold me back in the day.
      Jerry

  1808. Jerry: Your articles are so interesting to read, and thought provoking in a way that the comments generated by your readers are just as interesting to read! Can’t wait till your next article. Gerry Nathe

    • Yes, it’s great when readers respond. Makes one want to set about finding other things to write about. This new life in blog writing is both challenging and rewarding. Truly a lot of fun.

  1809. Great story!

    • I heard once that great stories write themselves. I certainly felt this was an event I had to attend, and then write about. So glad you enjoyed it.

  1810. How glad to be you who can find out about the wine maker that was so legendary. If people are addicted about wine then they would not have missed this news. Wine always be an elegant beverage by its taste and color. Visit www. delogie.nl to know all about wine products

  1811. Lady Tiara,
    Thanks for your comments. Godverdomme, its good to know that wine is so appreciated in Holland. By the way, that expression from your language exhausts 80% of my comprehension of Dutch.

  1812. David, I, too, really liked the label before I even read the article.
    Thank you for the insight into the pairing and the description of the taste of the wine. And, as usual, your photos are terrific!

    • Thanks, Mary – it was hard to put the bottle into recycling! I hope someday to go to the château and maybe find the artist. Would love to see more of her/his work! Thanks also for your kind comment about the photos!

  1813. Love your label description, David. Will be on the lookout for others that chat to me and send photos.

    • Pam – it was so nice to chat with you today, and to have an actual voice to go with the emails! I love wines (and labels) that talk to us!

  1814. David,
    For me wine labels are as the cover of a book, namely, an invitation to investigate further (or not). While it certainly applies to a refreshing design, as your selection from Gassier, it can also be important on the less frequent times when the label is only lettering. Typeface is a world of its own.

    • Jerry – I couldn’t agree more! Fonts, and font treatments, are one of my fascinations, and I have – more than once – not purchased a wine because their font choice said “cheap and trendy.” I have also purchased some because I liked the font! Not all were good, but the bottles were pretty to look at!

  1815. Hi David, nice article. What sort of cheeses will pair well for Provence reds as I am conducting a wine lesson next week. Thanks

    • PK – thanks for your kind comment, and for asking about pairings for red Provençal wines. Here are a few of my personal favorites to try. Keep in mind that each wine will have different properties and not all the cheese might work. Also, remember that every palate is different. Some like Camembert (cow’s milk) with red, but it brings a tang to my palate. However, a goat’s milk Camembert works fine for me! My list:

      Ossau-Iraty – sheep’s milk
      Cantal – cow’s milk
      Comté – cow’s milk
      Fresh chèvre
      Cambozola (a recent discovery with red wine. While I find triple creams too much, and blues too astringent with reds, this combination works well for me. Oddly, it is a German cheese.)
      Some aged chèvre cheeses
      Hard, aged cheeses – Parmigiano Reggiano

      I hope that helps! I should also ask, do you have a good cheese seller where you live? They also might be able to make recommendations based on what’s available in your area.

  1816. Thanks David. yes i have to agree that creamy cheeses do not work for most reds but Cambozola….looks like i will give it a shot for my wine lesson….hope the my cheese shops sell them here in Singapore.

  1817. Interesting article, David, thanks. I *try* to avoid the label thing, but I find it to be impossible. It really is the opening statement, and unavoidable outside of blind tastings. Oh, the fig flatbread sounds great, will have to give it a try soon!

    • Thanks, Jon. I have been fooled by beautiful labels many times, but I am just too much of a visual person to ignore the and, thus, I fall prey to their beauty. I hope you have had a chance to try the flatbread – I have had reports from readers who have made it with everything from naan to phyllo dough – all with great success!

  1818. Susan and Pam,
    You two really know how to hurt a guy. Benedicte and I are presently in the Alps, as part of a holiday that for the first time in twenty yeas did not include a visit in the SudLuberon. This article, and the alluring photos, are a lovely reminder of life in Provence. We had a rose at our picnic today, but from the nearby Savoy.

    • A rosé by any other name than Provence rosé is just not the same…but I hope you enjoyed the one from Savoy! it sounds like you’ve had a wonderful vacation and, of course, Provence will be there when you travel next year!

    • Provence missed you this year! And I’m sure you missed stocking up. A l’année prochaine.

  1819. This vineyard is such a contrast between the old (the rugged roads and old and mas)and of the new (the ultra modern harvesting and wine making equipment). I loved Susan’s description of what the Domaine was striving for and of the success they have sustained. This is all the more telling because I understood it all. Susan is initiating me into the complex art of wine making and wine tasting. The only thing missing was a glass of the wine itself. I would have enjoyed the wine and showed off the new oenological vocabulary I learned from this article.

    • I’m glad to play a role, however small, in your wine tasting and wine making education! I think we should practice our tasting a little more!

  1820. i loved revisiting Les Pastras today while reading the story and seeing the photos of yours and Pam’s grape stomping adventure. Such fun to have in September! Greetings to the Pepins from Central California. Cheers!

    • You would love the grape stomping experience (and the bandana would suit you much better than it did me!). Lots of laughing. Learning about grape harvesting is also very interesting for those who have had not experience. All in such a beautiful setting, as you know!

  1821. Ah! You really did go grape-stomping and visit your truffle tree. What fun!!! (But I do have to wonder/ is there a foot bath? Or, do folks really make and drink the wine? Really? LOL!).

    • Yes, there is definitely a disinfectant footbath BUT these grapes will not be used to make any wine. They will be relegated to compost. However, I do confess to tasting a tad bit of juice!

  1822. This article reminds me of the many hair raising bumpy, swerving roads with nearly blind curves and dips we’ve traversed over the years. However this holds strong promise of being well worth the endeavor. Lily Rose had me at “mint.” Unusual yet sounds so perfect.

    • Yes, indeed, and we were REALLY afraid more than the radiator might not survive! Truthfully, this road is not so bad as long as you know it’s coming.
      Lily Rose was a real treat and the feeling of mint (not the taste, to clarify for those who haven’t read the article) was an apt way to describe the sensation. Subtle,though.

  1823. While I have never experienced the challenging road to Saint-Andrieu, I have experienced their wonderful wines! The Lily Rose we recently tasted was stunning and unique. Worth making the drive to get your own bottle as the limited release will likely mean the bottle will not travel to find you!

    • The African roads you grew up driving on make this one look like a cake walk! and, as you suggest, there are rewards! Now that you have tasting a few of the Saint Andrieu wines (all colors, as I think about it), you know it is worth the drive!

  1824. Another excellent article – I so look forward to your writings

  1825. God bless those ladies who put on toenail polish to stomp the grapes. The polish goes so well with purple feet!
    .

  1826. Domaine Saint Andrieu looks fabulous!

  1827. Looks every bit worth the bumpy drive, Susan! Would love to taste these wines, for sure. And, honestly, the road keeps the riffraff away, so that only the true and deserving oenophiles get to the top! 🙂 Thanks for the listening selections. I think I would use the Stravinsky on the way up (with perhaps like the Rite of Spring), and then sit in the car with the Mozart to calm my nerves before heading in to taste the wines!

  1828. What a great concept! And I love his idea for the wine bar on one side of Faces! And it would not be just for the husbands – after a successful purchase, who wouldn’t want to celebrate with a nibble and sip?!

  1829. La Dolce Vita California October 2, 2016 at 4:33 pm

    Thanks for a great article!

  1830. Wow, the ravioli sounds interesting and being bee keepers and organic growers here in the Midwest, tweaked my interest.

    As I write, I am drinking a glass of their Ricolte 2015. Not being a Rose fan but leaning more to the big reds, this one sings of blackberry, is not heavy handed wine but as mentioned earlier, reasonably priced and a good wine to pour after a day out in the world.

    Thank you for your ongoing reminders of Provence. One of my favorite places on the planet.

    • Thanks for your comment, Linda! I will have to check out their Racolte.

      How wonderful to have bees – we just got a lovely quart jar of honey and a big chuck of honeycomb from a colleague. That is true good!

  1831. Well deserved honor!

    • Indeed. Here’s hoping they bring home the gold and interest in Provence wine coninues to skyrocket.

  1832. I love Vielle Ferme wines; we always keep a few bottles handy. Thanks for this gorgeous pairing. Love the bit of history. Great stuff, cheers!

  1833. Récolte means harvested in French, so that will refer to the year the grapes were picked. If you were drinking their red blend, it is their Rouge (Red).

    My wife and I have been drinking La Vielle Ferme’s wines for years, they are an exceptional value! Who can afford a $25 bottle of wine on Tuesday night?

    • Ah, now… that clears up the use of my misspelled racolté! Thanks, Scott. And, yes, it would have to be a spectacular Tuesday that begged a $25 wine. Cheers!

  1834. I enjoyed especially those happy feet–ces pieds heureux!–tromping around
    in those delicious grapes and their scrumptious juice. Looks like
    fun! Merci!

  1835. What a spectacular show: CHAGALL! So uplifting to see his works
    illuminated, especially those wonderful scenes from
    his native village, Vitebsck(?): fiddler, peasant balancing milk pails
    across his shoulders, various and sundry animals of the people/country,
    figures/lovers flying through the air, lovely maisons/toits de
    chaume, etc.

    Just this past weekend, I offered a card from Paris (where I just
    spent 3 weeks Aug.-Sept.) to a dear acquaintance whose wonderfully
    artistic husband died recently. It is of Chagall’s tableau of ‘Les
    Mariés de la Tour Eiffel.’ He is one of my very favorite
    artists.

    And I really found it stimulating and enlightening to read details of
    his and Bella’s escape from nazi France (‘L’Etat Français’/’The French
    State’) via Spain and Portugal. And to be reminded that our own State
    Department was rife with antisemitism, thus
    spurring it (‘them’, human beings) to behave in odious ways by
    delaying or denying entrance visas to large numbers of Jewish refugees
    fleeing great danger in nazi lands.

    And the utter sadness of his beloved Bella’s death during their exile in NY.

    Thank you for this wonderful display of vintage Chagall.

    And please do keep such ‘events’ coming our way!

    -Henry

    • Hi Henry, I can see that you, in particular, would love this show! You have a couple more months! Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us.

    • Hi Henry, I can see that you, in particular, would love this show! You have a couple more months! Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us.

  1836. Hi David. Thank you for the rav recipe – love your little cutters. I’ve never had La Vieille Ferme rosé – nor have I seen it on the shelves in my neck of Provence – but used to drink the red back home in the day. Cheap and très cheerful.

  1837. Beautiful job describing our visit and Saint Andrieu’s lovely wines. It took a while to nurse my beleaguered neck back to health but a bottle of L’Oratoire was just the medicine!

  1838. How beautiful. I’m sorry I missed this!

  1839. I do hope you’re a member of Lourmarin, Lourmarin! Sounds like a fun and energenic group. And with a dog lover at the helm, well…

  1840. You even wore a kerchief on your head. Just like Lucy! I can only imagine how awkward it would be to stomp grapes… glad you had – and enjoyed – the experience.

    • Awkward doesn’t capture the whole experience but you can see by my face that it was a large part of it! But, very fun from picking the grapes to enjoying the wines they have produced (not from grape stomping!).

  1841. Thanks, Gerry! I remember the Monoprix stores also having some great buys. Great article!

  1842. Bien sur! Cheers to Provence….

  1843. Next year I am thinking of chartering a submarine and loading it up. I heard there were still some serviceable WWII diesel models available out of Marseilles.

  1844. Miami in January?! Why not? Thanks, Pam, for this heads up.

  1845. Elegant, delicious, AND affordable wine? Now you’re speaking the language of a 26-year-old, Jerry! Thanks for all the insight. Now I know exactly when to plan my first trip to France 😉

    • So right, Mina. They should rename the country Oz. Top to bottom, east to west, it is a wine consumers Paradise, irrespective of generation.

  1846. As great now as the first time I read this, though this time through copious tears. What a life your little Pal led, bringing such joy to yours. I am so sad for you and for her and will miss her precious little face. xxx

  1847. We are very sad to hear of the passing of Pal. Jennifer still talks about the time Pal slept with her, while visiting with you. Reading her story, melts my heart. Thank you for reposting it.
    Sending lots of love your way,
    Sharon & Jennifer

  1848. First of all, my sad condolences. A dog lover all my life, now living with a mature Golden Retriever Sam and his young Chihuahua sidekick Oliver……life becomes bereft of joy without a canine. So fortunate you both were to have each other!

    A small addendum, when in France, my husband and I noticed the abundance of dogs and felt right at home.

    Best of wishes,
    Linda

    • Linda, Thank you for your lovely note. A 60-ish friend of mine told me that she counts her remaining years in terms of the number of dogs she can have. They are very special, aren’t they?

  1849. I’m very sorry to hear this new. I’m sure Pal was a much loved member of the family.
    (Was Pal friends with little Gizmo in Lourmarin?)

    • Roberta, I don’t know if she was friends with little Gizmo in Lourmarin. Your question reminds me that a friend of ours in California attended a lecture by a women who has a family home in Lourmarin and who has often traveled there herself. After the lecture, my friend talked with this speaker and inquired as to whether she knew us. She initially said that she did not but, as they talked and our friend mentioned our dog, a beagle, the woman said that she indeed remembered meeting Americans with a beagle! Pal was our ambassador!

  1850. As I reread this, I had to keep reminding myself that Pal didn’t actually type this out on your iPad. Or did she? Pal was one of the sweetest dogs ever and I will sorely miss her. Biggest of hugs from both of us, David

    • Thank you for those hugs. The loss of our Pal was huge for us. My emotions are just beginning to catch up with my intellect in accepting that helping to send her to canine heaven was the humane thing to do.

  1851. At the risk of sounding pedestrian, it reminds me of what lengths we went to obtain Coors beer anywhere East of the Rockies in the early 70s. Who might be driving east from Denver who could bring you a 6-pack?

  1852. Hello Jerry, as always your comments on wines are interesting and relevant!! Your comments on the coffee shows that you forgot some of the french specifics.A french (or Italian) expresso is always small, make it large … it’s an americano! Cheers.

    • Jacques,
      Aha, you are right. But there is a reason that its called an Americano. By comparison to an espresso it tastes like bilge water.

  1853. Claire,
    I remember how hot a beer product Coors was at that time. Back then for soda, or pop as some say, RC Cola was not available in the East either. But thanks to some great pr done then by RC, you could write them for a couple of bottle caps. Why would you do that? So you could leave them around when having someone over and drive them mad to think you could get some.

  1854. What an inspiring story! I cannot think of a better formula for a perfect life…performing jazz, making wine, and living in the Luberon. I hope to sample the results of their first vintage when I next return to Lourmarin. As a big fan of Michel Tardieu’s wines, I am sure it will impress!

    • Yes, Towny, this has all the elements that would appeal to you! Next time we are there, I hope we can all meet over a bottle of Domaine MasLauris wine!

  1855. Oh, Jerry, please go! Be my fly on the wall.

  1856. I have had this pink wine and really enjoyed it…I will look for the red, for sure.

    • I would love to hear how you like the red! Glad to hear that you concur the pink wine is good!

  1857. I hope that Margaux and Didier write a book. I have a feeling there is more to the story than you have reported…but I liked the introduction!

    • Hi again John, Yes, I suspect there will be other chapters as well! Let me know how the red wine is!

  1858. Dreams do come true. Through this article, I not only read a story of perseverance rewarded but also an explanation of many arcane French laws and regulations affecting land ownership and wine production. Another great article, Susan. Thanks.

    • Thanks, Lisa, for such nice feedback. There must be a humorous book out there somewhere devoted just to the byzantine nature of French laws, regulations, and bureaucracy. Opening a bank account was a story in itself!

  1859. Great article Susan! What a fabulous adventure and very inspiring. Two people who followed their passions….

    Joanne

    • Joanne, It was a very nice morning with Margeaux, hearing their story…in the case of Margeaux, beginning at 8 years old! I love what I do!

  1860. Great story! It just shows you what you can accomplish when you put your mind to it! I’m inspired!!

  1861. When you put your mind to it and,also, when you are lucky enough to have people believe in you. Thanks very much, Rosjke, for joining in here!

  1862. What a great way to bring the village to life! – CuriousProvence

  1863. I came across and enjoyed your article while I was looking for more info on Condrieu Viognier. I was recently in the southern and northern Rhone regions. I only had 2 Condrieu Viogniers while there but both were fantastic and the favorites of the trip which involved tasting 20+ wines from that area. They were the Chapoutier Invitare 2015 and Guigal Condrieu 2014.

  1864. I am presently into the first book, and am drawn back to a time in my life when I wanted to exit my career in graphic arts and go off onto the wine trail. I didn’t bolt way back then, nonetheless hung on to a passion for wine that shows no signs of diminishing. I look forward to Ivey’s new book, as I have some decided views on his twin themes.

  1865. What does it say about me that I’m more interested in the French wine sales than the clothes sales? Great article! Really enjoyed reading!

  1866. Nice to learn something completely new and to have yet more wine to taste. I have used Picpoul de Pinet as a reliable party white but had no idea of what was being done in the U.S.

    • I’m glad you enjoyed the article…Sue does have a lovely Picpoul and, if available this spring to consumers beyond her club, it would be worth it to order a bottle. Or, plan a trip to Lodi!

  1867. Truly a pioneering effort on Sue’s part, and I certainly take my hat off to her. I am with Oz Clarke in that so much more should be seen of lesser known white varieties planted here in the US. Several months ago I stopped at two vineyards in North Carolina, who among other things were doing Vermentino.

    • Yes, it seems that will be the next popular white! Of course, it goes by Rolle in Provence. And, yes, Sue is a true pioneer!

  1868. I want to go down that rabbit hole!

  1869. Loved hearing the Tipton family story.
    Thanks for another great article

    • Hi Teresa, It is quite a story, isn’t it!? I don’t think she ever imagined such success! Thanks for your kind words.

  1870. It certainly seems that everyone who tastes a lovely white wine from Southern Rhône has the reaction of wanting more… there just isn’t more! That is, unless you plant it yourself as Susan has done. I loved the Belle Blanc, and with her pairings it was a starlet.

    I love what you did at home with the pairings and tasting — really excellent. Cheers!

    • Hi Jill,
      You will have to join us in a tasting one of these times! Regarding Susan’s wines, I know you know they are lovely!

  1871. What an inspiring tale of chutzpah, vision, and esprit de corps! And beautifully presented. I’d love to taste those wines but might have to settle for a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with which I must have those delectable scallops.

  1872. What a shame that this wine is hard to find in the U.S. It sounds just like what I have been looking for to accompany a Moroccan fish tagine. (Whole fish on a bed of carrots, potatoes and onions with a chermoula sauce.) I will look in the Washington area for the wine and will let you all know if I find it. Thanks for the article, David.

    • I hope you can find it, Lisa – I make a very similar fish tagine and it would be perfect with this wine! Best to you and Charlie!

  1873. I tasted this at the Salon du Millésime Coteaux Varois en Provence this past spring and was impressed. As you said, much more flavorful as well as softer than you’d expect from its color, or lack of same. Phillipe Guillanton, proprietor of Château Margüi, said that the 2015 L’Or des Pierres, not yet released at that time due to barrel aging, was even better – “more honest, cleaner.” Not sure what that means but will let you know when I get my hands on a bottle!

  1874. George McQuilken November 6, 2016 at 2:26 pm

    I note that right now there are 99 bottles of Whispering Angel at the NH State Liquor store over at the Portsmouth rotary. Price $21.99

    • Thanks for the heads’ up to all our local readers! We do need reinforcements for our long winter, don’t we?

  1875. Whispering Angel and Yellowstone?! My kind of combination!

  1876. You would really like them, Pam…but settling for a little white Châteauneuf-du-Pape isn’t a bad consolation wine!

  1877. I can picture myself sitting in a hot spring pool in Yellowstone with a bottle of Whispering Angel…although let’s picture Garrus!

  1878. Wow – I need to see if any of the Acquiescence wines are available here in Tucson! Love reading about his inspiration!

    • I will see if I can find out. They are definitely worth seeking out!

    • Hi David,
      Thank you for your interest in Acquiesce Wines! My winery is very small, crafting less than 2,000 cases per year and it is all sold out of the tasting room. My tasting room is temporarily closed until March, when I’ll release the 2016 wines. There are a few 2015 wines available on my website http://www.whitewinewinery.com if you’d like them shipped. These include my Belle Blanc (CDP white blend) and our Viognier (which won BEST Viognier in California)at the California State Fair last year. We’ve been busy racking, blending and filtering this week in preparation for bottling and loving every minute of it!

  1879. I believe this is among the such a lot vital info for me.
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  1880. I agree with you that the adjective “raw” is not ideal. Like you, raw to me means unfinished. It also means unfair (as in a raw deal) or naked (in the raw). In the end, is it the same as organic or natural wine under a more brutalist label? How does Isabelle Legeron call it in French? What are the health benefits of raw wine? As you can see, you have piqued my interest on an approach to wine making with which I was unfamiliar. Thanks again, Susan

    • Lisa,
      You are correct that raw falls into the natural or organic category. I have no idea why Isabelle Legeron chose that term, other than to reinforce that artisanal wine producers leave the hocus-pocus elements of winemaking outside their cellar door.
      Are their health benefits? I know of people who do not handle very well the levels of sulfates normally used in wine making. The naturalists attempt to avoid any use, or at best very small amounts, of sulfur dioxide.

  1881. Jennifer L. Guernsey November 14, 2016 at 10:33 am

    Raw wine? How about unsullied wine? Pure wine? Lots of options.

    Have you had the opportunity to taste any of this “raw wine”? I’m curious as to whether you notice a difference. The proof of the pudding is in the eating, of course.

    I look forward to your first-hand report from next year’s event. Hopefully now you are on the right mailing list!

  1882. Jennifer,
    Natural wine purists, especially a couple I came across at a wedding recently in France, are absolutely convinced that natural not only is better, but that it tastes better as well. At the present moment that is a stretch for me to accept, as I have yet to go into a head to head, sort of, comparison tasting. But I have a more open mind about it, and want to see more of what is going on here.
    By the way, I love that you offer up unsullied. I may use that when I delve further into natural wines.

  1883. Jerrry…always a joy to read your knowledgeable stories about wine! I learned something new about natural aka RAW wine…sounds like it will appeal to many people looking to avoid sulfite. Bravo for another informative venture into the world of wine!

  1884. I was less focused on the “raw wine” aspect of the event and more on the “Bushwick location”–incredible how they drew a parallel between raw wines and very raw space and neighborhood. I’m a Bushwick resident and it’s incredible to see how much the area has changed since moving here two years ago! Here’s to many more wine-centric events in Bushwick. Sante!

  1885. Rachel,
    Go Brooklyn! I admit I was taken aback when I first saw location of this event. But given that I think natural wines resonate extremely well with millennials, I decided it was a perfect local for such an event.

  1886. Thanks to you I have been trying to improve my wine tasting palate. Count me in if you go to some of his classes in NY. As usual, a wonderful article and with your prose and the photos I felt as if I were there!

  1887. Comment as above. Looks a if I goofed on trying to post this.

  1888. Truly the end of an era. Shortly after it was published, I was given a copy of Kevin Zraly’s “Complete Wine Course” by a friend, Ray Wellington, who had written a chapter in the book, having previously succeeded Kevin as cellar master at Windows on the World. The book was received with critical acclaim by the food and wine world, of New York at least, for its clarity and unstuffy, welcoming style. I loved it and it became a one of my go-to gifts for friends – who also received it with critical acclaim.
    I remember Ray waxing poetic about Kevin’s genuine love for wine and winemakers, globe-trotting ways with a knack for ferreting out unheralded vineyards, and devil may care attitude for what the experts thought.
    A neophyte wine lover, I had the opportunity to attend quite a few wine events with Ray, including tasting dinners at Cellar in the Sky, where I would barrage him with greenhorn questions on how to judge the quality of the wines. With an unceremonious Zraly-like ethos, and the patience of a saint, he often responded “Do you like it? Then it’s a good wine.” It was Ray (hmmm, maybe not so patient1) who suggested that I take Zraly’s wine course. Though mucho intimidated upon arrival day one, I’ve ever since associated wine tasting, wine learning with fun, an adventure rather than a test, and have gone on unafraid to regale in discovering a cheap bottle of plonk that suits my taste. Thank you Kevin and thank you, Susan, for this walk down memory lane.

  1889. Lovely that you could be in the last class. I managed to make a Burgundy class last year, and having been several times to that legendary restaurant in the sky spoke with him about it after the class, also giving him a place card from there as a souvenir. He beamed, thanked me, and said it was created by the noted graphic designer Milton Glaser, which I had not known.
    So good to hear he will be keeping a hand in at Sherry-Lehman.

  1890. Oh how I wish I could have been there! Count me in on an upcoming Rhône class at Sherry-Lehmann. Kevin has an obvious passion for wine and we (the public) are so fortunate that he chose to share his passion with us for all those years!

  1891. Those parks are going to need even more protection now. Kudos to the organizers and to Alex Manfull for liasing with Chateau d’Esclans and for their contribution. Keep up the good work one and all.

  1892. Hi David, I just realized that I had not reported back to you that we made this dish with halibut and it was exquisite. we opened another outstanding Rolle and Ugni Blanc wine and the pairing was divine. I shall make this again!

  1893. Thanks for sharing Jerry. Such a lovely and moving article.

    • Lil,
      I think about that day often. At a time of active vineyard take-overs, both here and in France, its nice to realize that the artisans still can make outstanding wines that take us back to the way it was done centuries ago. Such an artisan was Mr. Bonneau.

  1894. Hopefully there will be more wines from Provence as the event gains traction. I’m rather partial to Buck Naked Wines.

    • Pam,
      Buck Naked Wines! You got me smiling on that one, especially as I recall seeing something about grape stomping that got out of hand in a way that would have Bacchus in stitches. Now I have to remember what site I was looking at.

  1895. My brother is visiting from the UK this Christmas. I am hoping he will be bringing this as a gift? Fingers crossed!

  1896. Bonjour ! Je suis ravi de ce texte et de ses belles photographies. Devant me rendre au Cap durant tout le mois d’août 2017, je serais heureux de recevoir les recommandations de ce cher Claude Aurouze quant aux gens à voir (y a-t-il des messages et/ou objets à apporter ?) et aux choses à faire. Très amicalement, Alain BECKER.

  1897. David, you write so beautifully and evoked the flavors and sensuality of this wine perfectly. I tasted this wine for the first time with Susan, at Mas de Cadenet, during our inaugural Provence Winezine vineyard blitz and have never forgotten it. Very exciting that it’s available to readers in the U.S. Will have to tell friends and family.

    • Thank you, Pam! I just wish I could be there whatchinh it cook! So glad you got an opportunity to taste this unique and wonderful wine!

  1898. Ha ha! As a child, I used to leave a nice glass of wine for Santa…. the thought of him bringing me wine now is kind of nice.

  1899. This sounds delicious and I love the metaphor of an old friend. Yes, a good wine is indeed like that. Sadly, I won’t be able to buy it here in Dallas but maybe you guys will save me some? 🙂

    • Penny. It may be worth the holiday splurge to order some. You can rest assured you will be the only kid on your block to have some!

  1900. As always an interesting article. Perfect time of year to write about a dessert wine.
    I also really appreciate the “wine searcher” on your page – makes buying wine so easy.

  1901. I’d love to have this experience, it’s on my list. David, is the wine served hot, traditionally? Can you say a bit about this?

    I felt the same when I first tried Muscat de Beaumes de Venise…an unexpected savory aspect, so satisfying for a sweet wine. Shouting from rooftops: it’s not what you think!!

    Cheers, lovely as always!

    • Hi! Actually, no – the wine is served at cellar temperature or perhaps a little warmer. I tried it both ways and found that the smokiness came out a bit more when it was room temperature (N.B. – my room temperature is 10 degrees warmer than cellar temperature!).

      And, I agree with you about the Muscat de Beaumes de Venise – I just love that wine, especially with a cheese course in lieu of a sweet!

  1902. I’d love to try these, especially the red! I found when I was in Provence that the wineries sell out fast. The locals come every year to pick up their orders and if you are late, well you know, the early bird gets the worm!

  1903. It was a pleasure meeting and spending time with Jean-Marie, who is accomplished, bright, engaging, and modest. As you said, Susan, he would have been “a sought-after candidate anywhere.” Most remarkable was that his arrival at l’Amaurigue was like jumping into the rapids to learn how to swim. Better add brave to his characteristics.

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:52 pm

      It was a terrific pleasure meeting Jean-Marie–I wholeheartedly agree! We could have talked all night, right? (Good thing for him that his dinner was ready!) It would be interesting to flush out the details of the story of his path to l’Amaurigue and to making such lovely wines!

  1904. Susan,

    Quel beau domaine! / What a beautiful domain! The story of M. Quef and his successful quest to produce quality wines is a fun read. Syrah is a wine I really like, pleasing to the taste.

    I looked carefully over the map of this lovely region but did not recognize any of the towns. Many small ones in a wide area. When I journey down to Provence next year, will perhaps seek out M. Quef’s realm and have a taste of one or two of his fine wines! Maybe even purchase a bottle…

    Merci! -Henry

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 8:01 pm

      Henry, I would definitely encourage you to pop down to Provence from Paris, where I know you spend most of your time when abroad. Domain l’Amaurigue would indeed be a lovely stop–there are other inviting estates nearby so make a day of it!

  1905. I had the pleasure of meeting JM and his team last year at a CDP event in San Francisco! He was looking for an Importer into the US market. I had no hesitation to start importing Domaine Amaurigue wines including mainly ‘Fleur’. I also had the opportunity to visit the winery in July this year. The quality of the wines and the people who make it happen speak for itself. Pier71Wines is proud to work with JM and his team.

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:58 pm

      Forgive me for my delayed response….It’s great to know that San Franciscans have a place to find l’Amaurigue wines. Do you carry all three colors of Fleur? When do you expect the latest vintage will be on your shelves? I will be in SF in June and will be sure to check out Pier 71 Wines. Thanks so much for your input and please do let us know about your next shipment.

  1906. Well, I haven’t gotten to the croquants yet — I will this Christmas!– but we need sneak a tipple Of that fabulous vin cuit! We paired it with Comté, Roquefort (no Gorgonzola dolce available), and Piave (similar to Parm). Excellent recommendations!

    • I think your cheese pairings are perfect, Susan! And you actually made the first Croquants I ever had! Hope you get some Vin Cuit from Santa..

  1907. Fantastic following you as always and look forward to your next adventure! We’d love to offer you a tour with us when next in Australia for a mention – come and enjoy our amazing Australian wines in the Spa Capital!

  1908. Ah, that would be a pleasure. It’s been far too long since I have last traveled to your part of this planet.

    • And me to yours – du-Pape is one of my ultimate faves!

    • Yes, taking us back in time is putting it very well. Each time I go into the wine cellar that special aroma greets me, and is followed by the thought that all truly is right in the world (thanks for that Mr. Browning).

  1909. Your versions can be choice as well. I still have one of Charles Melton’s Nine Popes resting comfortably in the cellar here.

  1910. I would love to try Red Wines from this region. Do they import their Wines in Singapore?

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 8:10 pm

      Hello Oliver, My sincere apologies for such a delayed response. The red wines from l’Amaurigue and other properties in Provence produce some excellent and even exceptional red wines. I see that Jean-Marie already responded to your inquiry; I would suggest you follow up periodically. I would also suggest you contact CIVP (http://www.provencewineusa.com/page.cfm?p=25) for more information. Bon chance! And thank you so much for your note!

  1911. Hi,
    First of all, thanks a lot to Suzan for this very nice and detailed article about l’Amaurigue and my work. I’m surprised about the deep researches she did and I must say that the story is very precise. It is for sure the work of a very serious wine journalist in love with Provence. Thanks also to Pamela for the nice pictures !
    We received already very good and enthusiast reactions from people who read this story.
    To answer to the post of Oliver Vinke, yes we did export red wine to Singapore 2/3 times already on those last 10 years. But it was mainly 1 shot opportunities for exports to this country with each time 5/6 pallets red AOP Côtes de Provence “FLEUR DE L’AMAURIGUE”. But very difficult then for us to follow up with the distributor I must say. If any new opportunity come to us, I will for sure keep you informed !
    Well US is still our big target for the next few years….and we hope to spread our sales of Rosé there.
    I’m actually working on the preparation of the new rosé 2016 in the cellar….and it is going to be an excellent vintage. It smells very nice fruits in the cellar when we open the tanks….always a good sign !

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 9:20 pm

      Jean-Marie, So here we are with the bottles of wine made from the grapes you were harvesting when Pamela and I visited. I can’t wait to try the latest vintage! As I have written to you, under separate cover, our visit with you on that hot September afternoon was most memorable and such a terrific pleasure. We will be back!

  1912. Street cred indeed! Heck, I’m impressed. 🙂

    BTW, the illustrations that go with your article are super.

  1913. Yes, though I have yet to meet illustrator extraordinaire Mike Dater I believe we are kindred spirits.

  1914. Jerry, you need to write a book about your wine adventures! I am sure it would be a best Seller! Great article and can almost taste the wine as I read your story.

  1915. Just loved your article! Keep them coming!

    • A book? That may be too challenging. Would not know where to start. But relating encounters along the way is so much fun. Thanks for your comments.

    • Susan,
      Promise you that there are more things to come.

  1916. Claire Schmidt Jones January 4, 2017 at 11:35 pm

    I could hardly wait for the punchline. We have parallel lives. My first rose might have been a Boone’s Farm in 1969. I love when a seemingly insignificant moment in Life pays off years later.

  1917. Claire,
    There is much of 1969 I don’t now recall, but that Tavel color is still very clear. Wasn’t Boone’s Farm an early screw cap product?

    • “If you remember the 60s, you weren’t really there.” A quote attributed to at least half-dozen people, which in itself is an ironic comment on the quote. Boone’s Farm indeed had a screw top, so that means, I guess, that while I remember the 60’s, I must not have been there? Or I was and I wasn’t – a kind of Schrödinger’s cat paradox.

      • Ha, ha. Did not know that quote, but thoroughly understand it. And if you have any questions, just ask Dennis Hopper, eh. So now I have to give praise to Boone’s Farm as a pioneer in packaging wine.

  1918. Jerry, your latent talents never seem to stop appearing. You can write my good friend! Looking forward to receiving you card on a political position. Love to you and your beautiful bride. Dick

  1919. As a fellow guest at this wedding I must attest to the validity of the wine maven’s story. I was not the only one impressed with the certainty in which he declared the wine a Tavel!

    • Thanks for the certification of my memory. French weddings go on for such a length that its easy to confuse matters, especially alcohol related.

  1920. Jerry,

    Excellent job! Natural wine I suppose is defined as bottled without sulfates? Buy the way, Foillard makes very good Bojo. Try Marcel Lappierre’s 2015 Morgon, he is in a class by himself. Bojo is the only thing I drink with chicken these days.

    Woody

    • Woody,
      You are so right about Beaujolais. I had virtually ignored it until a friend asked me three years ago to locally buy some Lappierre Morgon which he could not source in Boston at the time. So I added a couple of bottles for myself and was wowed by what I tasted. Natural wine basically is making it the way the monks did a thousand years ago. Minimum or zero sulfates, and natural yeasts. No fancy cellar techniques, such as reverses osmosis and the like.

  1921. This story reminded me of when we stopped at Val Joanis with Mike and Mary a few years ago, and how they they pulled out the good stuff for us because of you (also probably thinking they would make a big sale- clearly they haven’t spent a Tuesday at ocean state job with you). You’re not a bad person to hang around with at a party or winery though ;).

  1922. Florie,
    Vigneron’s and their staff are passionate about wine. So when a visitor is captivated by what they do, and shows it, many good things happen. As to Ocean State, well, I also like a good bargain when I see it.

  1923. You’ve done it again, Jerry! Your writing is just as lavish as the wines you speak of. Can’t wait for the next entry, keep ’em coming!

    • Mina,
      I expect to maintain the writing, well, as long as the wine cellar continues to provide the lubricant. So glad you enjoyed Quick Draw McGraw.

  1924. Jerry, your daughter was keeping this blog a secret from me! I fear I won’t get any more work done today as I am now totally lost in your magical, wine-soaked world and need to dig my way through the archives. Bravo!
    p.s. Let me know when you plan to uncork the 1985 Alsatian Pinot Noir…. I’ll be there. Lots of love!

  1925. Maura,
    Just like her to keep my light under a basket. Kids.
    I will first have to get that Alsatian out of the cellar in Lyon and back here. So lets think about opening it up the end of the year.
    Great hat by the way.

  1926. This is a wonderful story, Jerry, and once you mentioned the OK Corral and Tombstone, I saw the entire wedding party dressed as gunslingers… with glasses of wine in one hand, and their guns in the other. You have a wonderful way with words!

    • I wish though that I could have overheard the conversation at the FOB table after I nailed it. What element caused the greater surprise? My being an American?

  1927. congratulations Jerry for this great article ….I was waiting for the conclusion and not surprised by your answer of the Tavel wine.
    Jean

  1928. Jean,
    Amazing how color can stay with you. For a number of years we had several tastings a year with friends where different flights of four wines were tasted blind. In those flights where different grape varieties were on display after a time you could begin to appreciate shades of color for different grape varieties.

  1929. A delightful read and once again I am left with my mouth watering for the wines described.

    • Karen,
      I have managed to locate here in the US one of the natural wines served up at the wedding. Must arrange a time for you to try it. I am certain you will be impressed.

  1930. Jerry , really enjoyed reading.
    I would have loved to see the drama taking place….!
    On a different note,
    still little uneasy with this new fashion of said natural wine.
    A said Natural wine is unclear to me,knowing that it is a must to control and keep a steady temperature at very low level and therefore difficult to manage, unless at the vinery or with sellers able to manage the complete supply chain under strict temperature controlled environments. You will certainly recall Marcel Richaud comments.
    Maybe a topic for further investigation and next blog?

  1931. I love Château Romanin wines, really reds from Baux-de-Provence in general, but Romanin is one of my favorites. Great pairing! Happy New Year, David!

    • Happy New Year to you, too, Jill! Good to know that I chose well – such wonderful depth in this wine! Château Romanin wines don’t seem to be available here in the U.S. – so sad!

  1932. Thanks for your comments Jacques. I would hardly call natural wine a new fashion, unless you are referring to its level of interest in the American market. Getting deeper into the subject is of great interest to me, but back home in America we are at the bottom of the learning curve, unlike what I saw in France recently. On the consumer front, Parisian “bo-bo’s” seem much farther along in this movement than their US counterparts, and with good reason. They have considerably more naturally made product to choose from then we do.

    • Monsieur Clark, Bravo!
      You nail me down with 2012 Domaine de l’Ecu we tasted together . A tasting is worth thousands of words. This bottle do Muscadet 2012 from Gneiss, made from organic grapes and as stated on the back label is “NO MAKE UP ,JUST A TRUE WINE”
      Surprisingly good muscadet and even better the day after.((I Kept it (vacuvin)cooled in the fridge.))
      Thanks for sharing this bottle.

  1933. Can’t think of a better place to spend the holidays. Though I always have wanted to do New Year’s Eve dancing at a ball in Vienna.
    Second Jill’s comments about Romanin. It’s my second favorite red from Les Baux, after Trevallon. When I was last there in 2015 I picked up a copy of “AGENDA BIODYNAMIQUE – Lunaire et Planétaire 2015.” Seems it serves as a guide in their vineyard management.” I was told they are selling wine in Canada, but have not looked into that further.

    • Ah, yes, Jerry – the Silvesterabend ball would be lovely to attend, especially as I love to dance. But for pure beauty, Paris can’t be beat!

      Perhaps someday we will be able to get Château Romanin wines in the States. Till then, I will just keep going back to France! I will have to look for other reds from Les Baux. Happy New Year!

      • Les Baux reds exist here but not readily available, at least in my area. Look into finding Mas de Gourgonnier. Its has been marketed here for many years. I visited Mas de la Dame in November, and brought back some of their white. They make a nice red as well, notable Coin Caché, which I discovered in Massachusetts some 20 years ago but have not seen around recently.

  1934. Nice to know this is happening right up Hwy 99 from where we live. We will have to check it out. Thanks, Susan!

    • Hi Kristen,
      Lodi is definitely worth the trip north for some winetasting. Acquiesce is definitely worth a stop–even a detour to stop–as are quite a few others! Let me know if you go!

  1935. Hi Jacques,
    I will weigh in on this issue, too. I, also, am uneasy with proceeding too much further on these pages without defining what is meant by “natural” wine. However, we are a little constrained in doing so because “natural” wine has not yet been defined by its proponents (and perhaps will not be).
    I see one of my tasks, as Editor, being to define (as much as possible) natural, organic, and biodynamic wine so that, on these pages, we use the words consistently, and do not muddle up the subject any further. Those definitions will be in the “Resource” section of PWZ.
    To that end, I am attending the Millesime Bio Conference in Marseille in January. Information collected there, along with input from professionals producing such wines and additional research, should provide some clarification and set the stage for dialogue on the kinds of issues you raise. A blog post dedicated to this subject is a very good idea.
    My thanks to Jerry for getting this subject on the table for discussion!

    • navarre jacques January 23, 2017 at 7:57 am

      Hello Suzan,
      I am lookkng forward to learn more about this topic through Provence WineZine.
      Thank you for opening this subject up in your blog.
      Best
      Jacques

    • Jacques,
      So now you can imagine how pleased I was upon tasting this lovely Muscadet after first believing it was sacrilegious to pour such an interloper on the grounds of Chateau Giscours. Thank you on your note about how well it drank for you when you finished it the second day after opening. Now I am looking for the Foillard Cote de Puy Beaujolais served at the wedding dinner.

  1936. A delicious post. I have a favorite recipe, Saumon aux Lentilles, which has a mustard-herb butter and lemon sauce. I often debate on red versus white wine for this dish. I’m now anxious to try the Les Baux. I will also check out your recipe. Thanks.

  1937. As the sun reflects off brilliant, clean snow, I think of rosé. As a woman who has evolved from drinking rosé in the summer to enjoying the magic of Provence on sparkling, winter afternoons, I embrace getting rid of the seasonality of rosé. Bonne chance!

  1938. I love Rolle! It’s under-appreciated and hard to find in the States. But there’s a lot of it in Provence – Château Romanin near St.-Rémy does an especially nice one.

    • Thanks, Keith. More and more Rolle wines are becoming available here, and I am bald to hear you speak of Château Romanin’s white, as I just had my first red of theirs at Christmastime in Paris. Happy New Year!

      • If you are near St.-Rémy you should consider visiting the winery. It’s in a gorgeous location, nestled up against the Alpilles. On the way to it you pass the aerodrome where the gliders take off – really fun to watch. Happy new year to you too!

        • Thanks, Keith. We are definitely due for another trip to Provence and we have never explored the St.-Rémy area. Sounds like it would be worth it for the wines alone!

  1939. What a great idea to promote the pairings of the rosés with recipes created specifically for the wines! Sounds like fun to me!

    I was pretty shocked when I was in Paris and was seeking wines from Provence. One store clerk said, “Well, we have these summer rosés, and then two whites and two reds.” I can’t believable they referred to the rosé wines as solely summer – so there is much work to be done!

  1940. Such a shame the rosé to be sold through Sainsbury’s wasn’t available when were were in London last week!

    • I think I will be able to snag a couple of bottles when I am over there….perhaps a future Provencal Wine and Food Pairing?

  1941. Thanks for this great description. Gives me courage to mix it up more than I might for such a dish. Will also keep my eye open for almost anything from Les Baux-de-Provence here in the States. Cheers.

    • Thanks, Dennis! I hope you are able to find some wines from Les Baux – I am now rather obsessed trying to find them here in Tucson!

  1942. Great picture of you & Stephen chatting. I’ll look forward to the new treats from Mirabeau. Cheers!

  1943. Frederic Chartier January 14, 2017 at 8:44 am

    Always a pleasure reading your articles, Jerry! I remember visiting Chateau Giscours back in the day and being offered their upcoming 1981 vintage “en primeur” at a mere 50F a bottle. Still kicking myself for having passed on such a great deal!

  1944. So the exchange back then means it was about $10 a bottle. Yes, a self kick seems reasonable. Happily 10 euro’s can buy a pretty good bottle of red wine in France today, though not likely in Bordeaux.

  1945. Your salmon sounds divine, David. I haven’t had this wine but will be looking for it on the shelves. I hope you had a magical time in Paris and it continues through the New Year.

    • Paris was so magical, Pam! I hope you had a wonderful Christmas and New Year! Glad you like the salmon recipe – so simple, and that is often the best!

  1946. Ooh la la. Can’t wait to taste Étoile with you when you get here! Very exciting news. Thanks for reporting!

  1947. Fantastic article of wine. This museum of wine seems to be amazing. Such a pleasure to read an article of wine from France.

  1948. Very pleased that you enjoyed reading this piece.

  1949. Will you please recommend a wine vocabulary source or write one yourself? Your descriptions are tempting and poetic. Heading to our cave to see what I can find.

    • Hi Mary! That’s a really good idea…. I will give that some thought while over here in Provence, in the midst of all these vines…in the mean time, when I return home, I will provide some recommendations. Learning some new words here!

  1950. Susan and Towney, Thank you for all of the research! I still have the bottle of the 2014 Garrus That I bought on the last trip to Provence. I could bring it up when you get home and we could try it.

    • Hi Mary,
      That would be great! I have a couple of other vintages so we could have a vertical tasting! Towny and I are in!
      BTW, we took our café crêmes at Gaby’s today!

  1951. Susan,
    Thank you for a great article! As a Rosé lover and winemaker of a Grenache Rosé, I can attest to the longevity of well made, dedicated Rosés. We are currently drinking our 2013 and it has maintained a fresh acidity while acquiring deeper fruit characteristics. Of course, we are also drinking our just bottled 2016 Acquiesce Rosé also . . .lively, young, vibrant and aroma of freshly picked strawberries.

    Your article gives great information . . . the only problem with a really nice Rosé is that they are enjoyed as soon as they enter your home!

    • Hi Sue, So true about keeping the rosé! Lots of conversation here (in Provence and So Rhône) about aged rosés — at two wine expos and a day-long visit to Tavel, it’s not surprising to be talking about all aspects of rosé–and it seems there are two camps on the subject. Like or don’t like and little in between. Some winemakers and consumers are simply philosophically uninterested (i.e., rosés should be “fresh”). I agree with you that well structured rosés have freshness but it is integrated with more mature fruit on the palate. I look forward to trying your rosés again!

  1952. $10 a bottle in the Languedoc/Roussillon can buy great wine! Lafage makes some unbelievable ‘stuff’ in the $10-$15 price range.

  1953. I certainly agree with you. Thanks for the tip on Lafage, as I do not know them. Will check it out soon.

  1954. Back to Mas de Gourgonnier, I see in current issue of Wine Spectator (p. 75) that the 2014 was listed as one of the 11 best quality/value wines to come out of Provence in 2016.

  1955. Kudos to the Négrel family for their award winning rosés! They put such love into their land and their wines. And Matthieu sounds more enthusiastic and excited than ever. Lots of great info, Susan. Who knew that Cinsault, comme moi, doesn’t like to age!
    I think I’ll suggest a tasting of rosés gastronomiques to the Cotignac Wine Association at tonight’s meeting!

  1956. Domaine de la Grande Pallière attended Millesime Bio–the wine expo, located in Marseille, featuring well over 700 producers from around the Mediterranean–and so did try to meet them however their stand was quite crowded when we made the first pass and, with so many wines to taste, we sadly did not make it back. I will be in Correns in a few days and may make another attempt to taste what sound sounds like a lovely blend of Ugni Blanc and Rolle! Thanks David!

    • I’m sorry you didn’t get a chance to meet them that day, Susan. I hope the opportunity presents itself before you leave the country! Even if you don’t get a chance to meet them, I hope you get to taste the wine!

  1957. Oh, I wish you would do a rosé de garde tasting! Would love to know what those sophisticated palates would say! And, re that persnickety Cinsault, according to Matthieu, it is in barrels that this grape apparently declines to age well in. This estate will always have a special place in our hearts, won’t it? (It was our first interview, for readers who don’t know!)

  1958. David, this recipe looks delicious! It is so rare to find Provence whites outside of Provence…even in Paris! You must have found a great little wine shop!

    • I didn’t realize that Provence whites were so hard to find elsewhere in France! I know it’s near impossible to find them here in the US. I hope you get a chance to try the one some day, too, Towny.

  1959. GOOD JOB, DAVID ! BIG PLAISIR… PIERRE

  1960. I had the pleasure of tasting this wine at Millesime Bio in Marseille two weeks ago. I tasted several vintages but not the 2014, all excellent. I can understand why it married so well with your salmon!

    • I am so pleased that you got to try their wines – quite wonderful! Hope the Golden Harvest has sorrel one day so that you can try this salmon!

  1961. Susan, thank you for being our eyes, ears and Noses! It sounds as if this should be an annual event for you. As usual, so well written and chock full of interesting information. My millennials rely on me for wine info but more interested in drinking than pairing wine with food.

    • Hi Mary, I would love to make Vinisud (and Millesime Bio, the next expo I will write about) become annual events! I should start getting in shape for them now! Hope to see you soon!

  1962. Oh my. So much wine, so little time. Great opportunity to catch up with old friends and discover new ones – both wine and winemaker. I know where I’ll be next year!

    • We need a tee shirt that reads: “So much wine, so little time.” So many stories about the wines and winemakers to write, too!

  1963. Had me in stiches Jerry. I’m often face down in Tombstone at Cotignac Wine Club “name that wine” tastings. You done us proud!

  1964. This story has certainly peaked my curiosity about cellaring certain rose, something I have never done. I am still in the buy it and drink it (in season) class of consumers.

  1965. I love Provence white, and worry continuously that the rush to fill the enlarging rose pipeline will see them survive principally as blending grapes. And as for Rolle and Ugni Blanc, well, they are at the top of my white list. Recently I have sourced Rolle in the hills of North Carolina (under the Vermentino name).

    • Jerry – I have found several Italian vermentino wines, but – whether it’s the terroir, or the casks, or some other differences in production – they just aren’t the same as those from Provence! I will keep searching!

  1966. The great thing these “duels” provide is an opportunity to sharpen our senses. As a result of that evening I have taken on a whole new respect for well made Muscadet.

  1967. You have nerves of steel to taste sixty wines and take notes! Bravo.

  1968. I agree that 8 bucks gets you a more than acceptable rose from Famille Perrin. And I think I recently saw an ad from them in Wine Spectator claiming Vielle Fermee to biggest rose seller in America.

    • Bonjour Jerry! For a long time, La Vieille Ferme was the only rosé that was readily available to the masses. And, being that it’s a decent wine, people continue to buy it even though there are many more options now. It is really a good «vin de table.»

  1969. And wine spectator politics!….

  1970. Very interesting. I did not realize that more men than women drink rose (at least with millennials in this study). Especially interesting for the New Yorkers who are drinking more US wines. If you find out more about sample size please let us know. Thanks for the report.

    • Initially, women(in all age groups) did drink more rosé but the men have caught up (I believe across all age groups). Leave it to women to lead the vanguard!

  1971. What an incredible experience! It’s fun to see people here with whom I have connected with on Facebook and Instagram. I am impressed that you didn’t swallow! If I had access to all those wines, I would have been more than «un peu sou» by the end of the day!

    • Okay, I swallowed a few of the best ones!Lots of joking about being a tough job that someone has to do, but, seriously, it IS tough! Really.

  1972. “Curiouser and curiouser!” Cried Alice.

  1973. FAMOUS !!!

  1974. This is a terrific piece, Jerry. I had no idea the museum (or wines) existed. You have me wanting to see these films, now, and I am hoping they are available on Netflix! Thanks for a good read!

    • David,
      Good luck with Netflix. They are both worth watching, though I would give the edge to Morocco because of the magic of Dietrich under the guidance of Josef Von Sternberg. The ending is especially captivating. Do you have a DVD player?

      • Jerry – Beau Geste is available on DVD to rent on Netflix (yes, we have a DVD player) and is in our queue. Morocco is on their list to acquire, don’t know when. I will keep trying other outlets to see if I can find it. Thanks for your thoughts!

  1975. Wow – I would have loved to try that 2002! SO much of what I cook would go so well with a wine with those qualities! What a shame we aren’t seeing any of these in the States (other than Bandol and Tavel.

  1976. Thanks, Jerry. What an informative article! I did not know that the Legion was still operating. The ax wielding engineers–who knew?! And the leather apron symbolizes the pragmatic French. I assume you gathered a bucket load of post cards.

    • Mary,
      Curiously they did not sell any postcards at the museum. Had they I would have happily gobbled them up. Same for the Place des Etats Unis in Paris, of which I will write considerably more in my follow up article.

  1977. Great piece, Jerry. Definitely a museum worth a visit for those of us who grew up with Beau Geste and Morocco. The former inspired me to read all of Percival Christopher Wren’s series of “beau” novels, Beau Ideal and Beau Sabreur, completing the set. Although his writing is quite dated now, the pulsing valor and high-minded ideas of the time can still thrill. Some of the poetry coming out of WWI, like I Have a Rendezvous with Death, is fabulous. Thanks a million for publishing this.

    • And thank you Jenny for letting me know of the other “beau” novels. I wonder if they led to film sequels back then? In doing the research on Alan Seeger it seems he did have a following before he perished on the battlefield. I am not sure his poetry stayed in print very long. I think he got himself to Paris a couple of years before 1914, which is considerably earlier than most American writers.

  1978. I had the good fortune to once live in Switzerland, near the center of absinthe production. It was still illegal when I lived there but the law was curiously devised: It was legal to produce absinthe, to buy it, to sell it, to own it and to drink it. What was illegal? To transport it! But of course everyone had a bottle that had magically appeared in their home and we all enjoyed a glass from time to time.

  1979. Someone should write a book on the many curious laws involving alcohol. When I lived in France (1988-1994) some fruit producers had the right to make a small amount of eau-de-vie tax free for personal use.

  1980. Pamela O'Neill March 3, 2017 at 12:34 pm

    Very interesting, Susan. What an impressive man! I hadn’t realized that the property was purchased from Spurrier when we were at Le Clos de Caveau. Perhaps I was too busy snapping photos. Or was it the heat stroke?

    • Susan Manfull March 3, 2017 at 1:17 pm

      I would love to know what he recommended back in the 70s in his Parisian wine store!

  1981. Jerry, thanks for writing and pointing out what appears to be biased reporting In this listing. Having vacationed occasionally in the Provence region, I was interested in reading the listing of $30 or less red and white wines for future travels in the region. While I am not much of a Rose’ drinker, I too was surprised and disappointed to learn that Rose’s (and Bandol) dominated this listing.

  1982. Gerry,
    Quite frankly I was rather surprised when this seeming Bandol preference jumped out at me. Dividing up the global wine regions among ten reviewers makes good sense at Wine Spectator. However, as diverse as Provence is geographically, terroir, and grape variety wise, I am perplexed by the skew toward Bandol. I have been vacationing there regularly for almost thirty years, and know that as good a quality wine area as Bandol is, they have far from hung the moon. If you like I can provide a list of my favorite Provence producers, in all colors, for your next visit.

  1983. Love the recipe, love the wine 🙂

  1984. Mary Norcross March 5, 2017 at 5:43 am

    Thanks, Susan. Now I want to read The Judgement at Paris again! Also, I had no idea England had any vineyards.

    • Susan Manfull March 6, 2017 at 4:05 pm

      I would, too, and I have never seen the movie! Thanks for posting your thoughts, Mary!

  1985. So pleased to see how complimentary Tavel is with your food selections. Seems PWZ is kicking off 2017 with appreciation of the birthplace of rosé, where first taken as a serious wine.

  1986. Pamela O'Neill March 5, 2017 at 10:53 am

    To be absolutely certain of your honest opinion, might you require another bottle or two? Will be putting your duck cakes in my dinner party ideas folder. Do you think a little creme fraiche would work in place of the egg?

  1987. Extremely sad that both events cannot take place at the same time. Yes, they are both very different, but they reach out to differet markets and have a different focus. Both fairs are presumably there to allow producers to sell wine, to introduce journalists and educators to their wines but, as much as I would love to go to both the time to cover both events and the moneu to stay away for longer is more difficult if not during the same week. That this hostility has dominated the two events makes it very unpleasant. Possibly vineyard trips to bridge the gap between the two fairs may be a possible option – so maybe we should decide where we to visit?

  1988. A very imaginative dish indeed and perfect for a brunch! I know I can get the duck confit legs locally but not sure about the Silkie eggs and sour cherry juice. Do you think one can successfully substitute regular eggs in the recipe? Where can one find sour cherry juice concentrate? I have always loved Tavel wines but they are hard to find. I am not familiar with Domaine Moulin-la-Viguerie, do you know if it is available in the USA? Thanks!

    • Peter – thanks for writing! First, the wine is available in the U.S. – I have seen it listed on Saratoga Wines site, for about $10/bottle. Now, on to the food… you can us regaulr eggs to make this – just make large hash cakes to put under them! For the cherry juice concentrate, I bought regular sour cherry juice and reduced myself. That seemed to work well.

  1989. Fascinating and thorough. Thanks so much!
    I used to buy US wines labeled “organic” about 12 years ago when a close friend drank them exclusively. At the time I found them lacking, possibly due to my preference then for French wines. I think it’s time to explore Bio. I appreciate the clarity on labeling definitions.

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:34 pm

      Organic or not, I would like to see some truth-in-advertising about what is added to wine. An ingredients list could be the death knell–and with good reason–for many wines…although not the ones on our respective tables!

  1990. This is fantastic !!!! I wish that was me at 14…

  1991. Susan, I thoroughly applaud your mission to drink more wine and to bring home these interesting articles! The Tasting Counter, a restaurant hre in Somerville, MA. only serves bio alcohol pairings. I did find many of them flat to my taste, but will try again! I also appreciate your photos! It
    gives a sense of being there–and liked the thumbnails.

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:36 pm

      Hi Mary,
      Let’s go to The Tasting Center! Sounds like fun. Thanks for the nice comments and I will make sure Towny hears your feedback about he photos!

  1992. Wonderfully informative account of a unique annual event (by American standards). Bio in Europe is so much more than wine. A practice that once was the purview of artisanal producers now has the attention of a broader supply chain. Over here, aside from more limited interest at wine estates, the only arena I see that shares the tenets of naturalism seem to be at the farmers markets. But I remain hopeful. As a youth I only recall Velveta cheese. Today we have far more American offerings to draw upon.

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:41 pm

      I love the Velveta cheese analogy! Yes, if we can rise above that nadir, surely there is hope for the wine industry! It is such an interesting time with so many options in wine, but proportion of the market devoted to organic, biodynamic,and natural wines still remains quite small. The demand is growing.

  1993. OMG – what an experience! It is wonderful to know that so much BIO wine is being produced in Provence, and in Europe in general. It is also fun to put faces to the vintners of some of my favorite wines – so glad you like the Château Romanin! If you get some of David’s wine at Gotham, please save the cork for me! It might have to become art in my kitchen!

  1994. I will admit that I predominantly drink rosé from Provence but that stems from the fact I typically only visit in the peak of summer when a cold glass of rose is the perfect accompaniment to my lunch. That being said, I definitely agree that the Provence AOP should have made the cut. Thanks for the great input once again Wine Maven!

  1995. The bottom line for me is that there are so many good things going on throughout Provence that WS is giving scant credit.

  1996. Pamela O'Neill March 23, 2017 at 1:00 pm

    The marc sounds stunning. Will have to make a return visit to pick up a bottle and try the 2016 millésime reds, whites, & rosés. Shall I wait for you?

  1997. Great article – wonderful details. We are proud to say that we [Golden Vines] now import these delicious wines into the NY/NJ/CT markets. We were sold on them once we tasted – the wines are delicious!
    If you are interested where to find them email me at anthony@golden-vines.com

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 9:26 pm

      Hello Anthony, Thank you for those nice comments and for letting the readers and me know that l’Amaurigue wines are available in the NY/NJ/CT area. I will be in NYC next week–Could you let us know where the wines are available? Is it too early to see the 2016s in the States? I am looking forward to trying the cuvees in all three colors!

  1998. FAMOUS PLACE, INTERESTING WINES – AND… GOOD JOB SUSAN AND PAM !
    PIERRE

  1999. You got me there for a minute! Loving the Chinese grapes…!

  2000. I must have missed that Tweet this morning. Thanks for sharing!

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:05 pm

      I wouldn’t want you to miss this news. There may be something for your cellar!

  2001. Is he trying to build a wall there too?!?!

  2002. Do as I say, not as I do…crazy to hear this in Provence, France from our ‘Buy American Made’ president: “Day one, we will be modernizing the vineyards by ripping out all those old vines and replacing them with fresh new vines that we have sourced from China.”

  2003. Claire Fleming April 1, 2017 at 12:05 pm

    HeHe. You had us going there for awhile.

    • Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:10 pm

      It was great fun to create this fiction! I suppose it is as believable as the reality of his White House caper!

  2004. Pamela O'Neill April 1, 2017 at 12:22 pm

    This is great. Really really great. And you are sick, T, really really sick. Had me till I got to the new Chinese vines. Can just see that JA yanking out old vines though! You made my fool’s day. xxx

  2005. Last week I was in New Hampshire helping a friend who is starting an importing business there pour his initial offering, a 2016 rosé from Ch. Barbabelle (near Aix) at a couple of wine shops. The first thing out of the store managers was “aren’t you guys a little early for rosé season?” Boy, were they surprised when we sold out their stock of Barbabelle for them.
    I stressed with all tasters that as this was a wine that was truly food friendly, and surely not locked into the warm season. So in this regard I support Mr. Ott to the fullest. Excuse me, now I have to cut/paste that roasted chicken recipe and forward it to my wife. We shall give it the rosé test.

    • Never too early for rosé! We are of the “drink it year round” club, too, Jerry. (Some rosés more that others!)

      I wish we could get the Château Barbarelle here!

  2006. Did you mention he’s building a Printemps White House and having the French pay for it. It will be bigly.

  2007. Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:15 pm
  2008. Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:20 pm

    Oh, David! Another winner! As you know, I am a huge fan of all three Léoube rosés and can only imagine how well this one, in particular, would go with your salt-crusted chicken. Can’t wait to try for myself!

  2009. This fun piece is actually not that far of a stretch. Trump does own a vineyard in Virginia, though I don’t think the vines came from China.

  2010. Susan Manfull April 1, 2017 at 7:46 pm

    We loved the Château Romanin wines! I hope to visit the estate this summer to do an indepth piece (and to taste some more wine!). I will keep you posted on David’s wines (also very good!). It’s another place to visit this summer, but hope to get to Gotham wines this week! Such fun!

  2011. Hi Susan, I have just gotten back from Margaritaville while visiting my sister in AZ. I am looking forward to some nice weather and the Rosé de
    Léoube with the salted chicken. Thank you for the Tasting Notes! A great addition.

    • Mary – where in Arizona does your sister live? If it’s near Tucson, we should meet the next time you are here! Glad you like the recipe. The wine is amazing!

      • Hi David! I can’t believe I’ve never filled in the dots for you about your fans! Mary is Germaine’s sister in Tubac! Such a small world of Francophiles! I wish I had thought to say something!

  2012. Now there is a club that I do not need to become a member of! When will Provence WineZine launch a wine club? I have much more confidence in your picks (and I believe YOU would be picking out the wines–not a staffer!)

  2013. Peter,
    Great thought! I will bring your wine club idea up at the next PWZ Editorial/Operations Meeting.

  2014. When can we expect the Kim Kardashian Wine-in-a-Box? Water it down, alcohol content 2% and margins that would make Big Pharma blush – that’s it – a Blush wine. I can t wait. It’s called “Kim’s Blush.” I can’t wait to unscrew the box now.

  2015. Mina Alnajjar April 7, 2017 at 3:46 pm

    There’s such a thing as Rosé season? You could’ve fooled me 😉
    Jerry, your writing is therapeutic for my soul. Please post more!

  2016. I want to laugh, or at least applaud, but I know that its very likely the big agencies are pitching dozens of stars each year with wine merchandising ideas such as that which Martha just brought forth. So why not Kim?

  2017. Wish I had their marc just now, as we endure a miserable start to Spring here in Southeastern Connecticut. I love whites from Provence, and would love to try their Rolle. At 30 euros it puts them in Ch. Simone country.

    • It’s still a bit chilly up in New Hampshire but, as we confirmed on Saturday evening, a good marc still goes well. I have not had the marc from Ch. Simone…and will confess I did not know they made one! Will check it out!

  2018. ‘Kim’s Blush’? Drop the ‘l’ and it my sell:). Don’t band me!
    RANT!
    I hate Corporate wine in general! Blending grapes from unknown sites, overblow fruit bombs, excessive alcohol, fancy labels, and hughes mark-ups. And those are the good point!

    • Woody,
      Happily there are so many serious sources for good wine available to us. New consumers don’t need to be dependent on all the wine clubs emerging for the uninitiated. They just need to find a local merchant that knows what they have.

  2019. Jerry, a couple of months ago following some comments you made about a Wine Spectator article listing some wines from Provence (which were primarily rose’ as I recall from one vineyard), you suggested that you could make some recommendations for me on a broader array of Provence wines for our consideration on our next trip to Provence. I have not followed up on your suggestion yet, but I think Peter Mansell’s suggestion of a PWZ Club, or alternatively, monthly wine suggestions, is a good one that all readers could use and enjoy. Gerry Nathe

    • Hi Gerry, We really like your idea of wine suggestions and are mulling over how that could be best accomplished (especially given the varied distribution of Provence wine across the US and other countries where we have strong readership). As for a PWZ wine club…now, THAT would be fun!

  2020. Gerry,
    I think Peter’s suggestion has merit. Tonight I am in New Hampshire for a Tavel rose tasting organized by the blog. I will bring this idea up to them. Thank you for getting on board!

  2021. Anyone buying Martha Stewart’s wine selections doesn’t know about wine, doesn’t care about wine and will not learn anything about wine from her. It’s a big who cares. The NRA has a wine club and I never thought they know anything about wine. I belong to the NRA and I subscribe to Martha Stewart Living but I only listen to Jerry Clark when it comes to wine.

  2022. Claire,
    You put an edge to my thoughts. I did not know about NRA wine club. Perhaps had they embraced Fess Parker as a celebrity spokesman, rather than Charleton Heston, they could be adding a great deal of revenue from wine sales.

  2023. Jerry,
    Always knew you were the best Marketing and Sales Executive I ever worked with in my 32 years in the graphic arts industry! Sounds like you can transfer your talents to the wine biz.
    Woody

  2024. Elizabeth,
    Welcome to PWZ!
    You have selected to right word, interesting, when speaking of 2016. In our holiday visits in Bordeaux, Italy and Switzerland last September all seemed to have a story about the uniqueness of the vintage. We stopped on the Swiss Riviera 9/24 for some roadside pictures of Chasselas still hanging in Dézelay and a tasting at Bovard. We learned it would be the latest harvest there in eighty years.
    Recently I had the 2016 Ch. Barbabelle Clos Madelaine here in US and loved it’s full, rich body. Very much looking forward to more ’16 arrivals from Provence to compare.

  2025. Woody,
    It helped my vinous career by having clients like you that took great enjoyment from a good bottle of wine with dinner. We have to uncork something again down the road.

  2026. What made Martha a wine connoisseur? 6 bottles for $60….what’s next?Beside the region from where it comes , it would be interesting to know the producers.

  2027. Thank you Susan for sharing all your good experience with rosé wines. In your recent article on your round 1 of the tasting season, I was curious to see the availability of the rosés at our state-run SAQ store. Of all 8561 wines they have on their list ( not all available at this time ) only 158 are rosés ( 1.8% ). The rosés that you tasted on this first round, they only have 3 on their list ( Domaine Saint André Figure , Domaines Bunan and Domaine de Rimauresq ) and none are available et the present time. Maybe they should be reading Provence WineZine to improve their knowledge of good rosés.

    • Hi Jean, Thanks for your kind endorsement of Provence WineZine! Please spread the world! ‘Tis the season for rosé, so you will be seeing a lot more about that subject on these cyber pages. This particular article is written by Elizabeth Gabay MW whose observations will continue to grace our pages!

  2028. Jean,
    You ask the pertinent questions. Right now I am on the trail to learn more of the Californian Chardonnay being offered. Her wine web site does not have much to say about it, other than it comes from California.
    You can track what she is offering on:
    Martha Stewart Wine Co.

  2029. Elizabeth Gabay MW April 11, 2017 at 3:03 am

    Apparently CALA is avaialble in California – but very little left – maybe the advantage of the vineyard being owned by someone in California?

  2030. Okay, now you HAVE to get a box of MS wine just to see what horrors she has perpetrated. I expect a full report.

    • Jen,
      Be it the six bottle sampler, or a single bottle, I will bite. And of course will report back on what I think. As I mentioned earlier to Jean, I am looking into the background of one of her selections. In that effort, to date, I am becoming perplexed.

  2031. Susan, thanks for another good recommendation! I went to the wine store
    to get a nice rosé for Easter brunch and was overwhelmed by the rows and rows of rosés…all beautiful… from almost translucent to cherry red. I was looking for the Chateau de Trinquevedel but no luck. The H to H: Homage to Heritage 2016 from the Tavel area was recommended. I also bought a Rock Angel and ordered the Chateau de Trinquevedal.

    • Hi Mary, I am so glad you got the Tavel bug…but now comes the frustrating part of searching for a good one. As you know, Chateau de Trinquevedel is a really good one! I don’t know the H to H: Homage to Heritage 2016…I am curious what store you were in… Love Rock Angel! Do try Chateau Barbebelle’s Cuvee Madeleine–it is very good! Keep me posted on your tastings!

  2032. Thank you Elizabeth Gabay. I just tried my first Rose of the season and did what you suggested: to taste with my palette. It was a glass of 2106 Chateau Barbebelle—and it was lovely. I’m pleased that I bought a bottle and it’s chilling for Easter.

  2033. Elizabeth,
    Your article has certainly whet my appetite, though perhaps not in the way you might expect. I will make a point of visiting the new center on our trip to Provence in July, but principally to see what reds and whites they have to offer. Given the energy on selling rosé, 88.5% of production in your story, I want to let friends in America know that while Provence seems a “one trick pony” of late, they continue to make other worthwhile wines at reasonable prices.

    • I certainly agree with you that the red and white wines get very overlooked. Always important to note that that the biggest producers are the main rosé producers (which shifts the emphasis on what is being produced) and that the smaller estates still produce good quantities of red and white. The sommeliers working there can certainly direct you to interesting wines.

      • Last Wednesday we were in Draguignon to see the Rhone American Military Cemetery. Pressed for time on leaving we did seek out the Maison des Vins for a very short stop to get a single bottle of a 2014 white wine to bring back for a blind tasting of that vintage I am planning to have one day. Quite impressive spot for sure. Looking forward to a return and chance to taste some things.

        • Elizabeth Gabay MW July 24, 2017 at 8:59 am

          The cemetry is certainly impressive too – and the military museum in Draguignan… but I digress. Is this a tasting for White Provence 2014 vintage? If so – might be worth while looking out for white Bellet 100% Rolle but quite different.

          • Thanks for the Bellet tip. Heretofore not at all familiar with this appellation, and reading up on it now suggests given its small size and proximity to Nice not much production leaves the area, much less France. But I will check further over here.

  2034. Lovely article. Thank you. I look forward to including your recommendations on my next visit to France.
    You mention that today there are fewer and fewer small family owned estates, can you or anyone point to articles or lists of those?

  2035. Tried it and loved it! First a glass at Maison Navarre in Portsmouth, and then my husband and I enjoyed a bottle in our garden on an Easter afternoon.

  2036. Beautiful label as is Whispering Angel’s label. I look forward to trying it, however since you mentioned it I do have a particular fondness and personal prejudice for Chateau d”Esclans.

    • Clearly you have an allegiance to Chateau d’Esclans! It’s always fun to try new wines and I would be really curious to hear your thoughts. What other rosés do you like?

  2037. Cuvée Madeleine is just delightful, isn’t it?!

    • It IS delightful now and the wine master says it will get even better through the summer. I’m not sure I’ll be able to save any though—sigh.

  2038. The Ch. Barbebelle has the body and flavor to complement many foods.

  2039. “A rosé is a rosé is a rosé is a rosé is a rosé.” With apologies to Gertrude Stein. The judges I guess a looking through Rosé-colored glasses ??

  2040. And a Tavel is a rosé, is a rosé, is darn’t well a rosé.

  2041. Would a rosé by any other name taste as sweet?

  2042. Yet doth Tavel sit and wait,
    Ignoble not – just unknown.

  2043. Pamela O'Neill April 24, 2017 at 8:01 am

    I can tast it now! Must head down to Léoube and stock up before donning my toque.

  2044. Pamela O'Neill April 24, 2017 at 8:11 am

    So glad that Portsmouth wine lovers will be sipping this lovely wine. I have no doubt that, being the home of Provence Winezine, it will fly off the shelves. Santé

  2045. Pamela O'Neill April 24, 2017 at 9:16 am

    The Saint-Roch-les-Vignes coop makes some tasty wines and have won quite a few medals in the past few years. Does their name appear anywhere on the bottle? Mention of St. Tropez on the label can’t hurt sales, even though the wine isn’t from the peninsula. I’m curious to try it as well as to know if you ever found the jug wine culprit.

  2046. Pamela O'Neill April 24, 2017 at 9:24 am

    Jerry, back away from the rosé. You are not a well man. Tavel with it!

  2047. Pam,
    Ah, les jeux des mots! Where do I go from here?

  2048. ” …a badge of double gold (?) , gold silver or bronze on 187 of 239 entries “. What kind of competition is this? Do you have an idea on how it compares to other competitions for one specific category like the rosés ?
    Nine judges to get to this kind of result , I agree with your second reason for this type of result.

  2049. Jean,
    Previously I never paid any attention to these competitions, so this is new territory for me. The vineyards that compete must see value, as there is cost to them to participate. But I am surprised that there seems to be such a high percentage of awards given to total wines entered. And what criteria are the judges given? Does a gold in Paris have the same value as a gold in Macon? I need to dig into such points further.
    As to Rose tastings, there is another small one coming up in Colorado. Will be interesting to see how they define a rose.

  2050. Pretty excited to be pouring both of these rose’s tomorrow at the annual rose festival here in Dallas at Pogo’s Wine and Spirits. Salute!

  2051. Jackie Granelli May 5, 2017 at 1:01 pm

    I’m with Dionysus in Texas, and I’ll confirm we are carrying the Vignelaure rouge and enjoying it very much! Available in Austin, Houston, and Dallas.

  2052. I wasn’t very hungry until I got to the langoustines entree. Now I must make a shopping list and add a few bottles of Mirabeau.

  2053. Very interesting, thanks! I will be anxious to try some of the under $20s myself.

  2054. Yup, as the 49ers going into California said, “there’s gold in them thar hills.”

  2055. jacques Navarre May 7, 2017 at 7:15 pm

    I love Langoustines, such a delicate “crayfish” The pairing with the Etoile rose must have been a big hit! Thanks for sharing and make our mouth watery!

  2056. Jen Guernsey May 9, 2017 at 1:45 pm

    It’s not quite as hard as determining what car makes are actually “American” these days, what with parts coming from all over the world to an assembly plant.

    Looks to me like I need to be more curious about Argentinian wines…

  2057. Excellent point, Jen.
    Yes, Mendoza is offering up some great values, but also hitting their stride with premium wines. It has been on my radar for some time, and a place I hope to one day visit.

  2058. I don’t get it….just because a Toyota is manufactured in the USA does NOT make it an American car. Just because the wine is bottled in American, does not in my opinion make it an American wine. We need some rule changes!!!

  2059. Rule changes at this prestigious competition are in order, if they intend to continue calling it an event for only American wine. On the other hand they can change the name and open the doors to the big world of wine that is out there.

  2060. As I fully admit naivete in this arena as a beer drinker (and a light one at that in every sense) I have to admit, you piqued my interest in “juice” and agree due credit for foreign competitors is right and just… particularly since there are worthy subtleties to appreciate with the under $50 per bottle wines. Great post!

  2061. Glad you enjoyed it. If truth be known, I drink as much beer during “happy hour” moments as wine. Quenches my thirst quicker (otherwise I would look like a character out of Sideways with my hands around the spit bucket).

  2062. Thanks for the great recommendations. Though I have to disagree with you, I liked the Viognier from Cuilleron but maybe it was a 2015? Anyway love your wine reviews.

  2063. by the way, I am totally going to stalk you in Provence…some time soon!

  2064. Mon Frere, I often recite your adage that anyone can find a good bottle of $50 wine….the satisfaction is in finding a good bottle of $10 wine. Makes me sound so Worldly.

  2065. Ha, ha. I guess that one still drives me. But its the reason we are seeing so much foreign juice on our shores. In France at the cooperatives probably 80% of what they sell is less than 10 euros, and much of it under 5.

  2066. Maybe it should be called the “The Largest Competition of Undocumented American Wines in the World?” or “The Largest Competition of Open-Border American Wines in the World?” That would be so PC…..

  2067. Ahem. A case could be made for either. One thing for certain is that the admission language defining what constitutes an American wine has to change. Cannot imagine how the Chronicle did not pick up on this.

    • It’s good old “doublespeak” – Maybe there is a third name for the competition – “George Orwell and the San Francisco Chronicle 1984 Wine Competition” – “Where words have no real meaning so you never know where the wine comes from”

  2068. Right on! Now let me find another spuriously defined event (with Rosé Today I am now two for two) and you can join me on the picket line.

  2069. Great article—thanks!

  2070. It makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up when I hear statements like “rosé is not a serious wine”!..does he not understand the nuances of a cépage grown by the sea vs those from the rocky areas around Aix…….just had Domaine St. Andre’s figuiere Premiere….oh my, the complexity, the subtle saltiness of the sea, the fruitiness, the mouth feel…., terroir, terroir, terroir.

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 8:04 pm

      You are so right! I am often bowled over by the subtleties of terroir in rosé (although sometimes there are pretty distinct differences). Rosés from La Londe are very different from Sainte Victoire although the sub-appellations are less than 100 kilometers apart. BTW, I like your choice of rosés !!

  2071. Mary Norcross May 14, 2017 at 4:07 pm

    Susan, excellent article!! I also used to think that
    Rosés were not big or important enough to sit at grown up’s table. But I have been reading your Winezine blogs and I am now visiting Provence and have been experiencing the wide variation in rosés. I am drinking one tonight from Chateau Fonvert that is lovely: 70% Grenache Noir, with Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It is complex and lovely. Thank you for your insights! I plan to open up my palate to rosés! What better area to do so?!

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 7:47 pm

      Absolutely right–what better area to taste rosé? AND, you went to Tavel! I really like Chateau Fontvert’s rosé…and their reds and whites! They are biodynamic, as you no doubt know, too. What a trip!! Thanks for the nice feedback, too!

  2072. I would not argue that rosé coming forth from artisanal producers (I dislike the term boutique) can be full of character, and is certainly taken seriously when made. Winemaker Tom Bove had to learn from a friend that his wine could age, and right there you have the rub. It is made seriously, but not taken for a serious wine by most consumers, meaning one to lay away for enhanced pleasure.

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 8:36 pm

      Consumers unsurprisingly need to be educated. With few but distinguished exceptions, rosés were not made to be aged. Some Bandols are not released until September and those who know their roses know that they will be their best at least a year later. There is an interesting situation going on now at Chateau d’Esclans: Garrus is made with the idea that it will benefit from at least a little restraint. For the past two years, Garrus has been released at the chateau when, in my humble opinion, it is not ready. I had the 2015 last summer at the chateau and felt it was too oaky and closed. I just had a 2015 again in April and it was stunning. Will consumers wait or will they think “it’s rosé, I need to drink it asap”?

      Tom Bove didn’t think about aging his La Mascaronne rosé, but he did think his rosés merited “serious” tasting. Interestingly, he told me that, “like most Americans,” he did not think of rose as “serious” but that is not his opinion now. (Watch for an upcoming article on this interview.) There are a growing number of consumers appreciating rosé de garde. In 2013, a rosé de garde category was added to the Concours des Vins de Provence competition.

      Question: Do you think a wine has to have the capacity for aging to be serious?

      • I think a lot of educating need happen before the new rosé drinkers ever think of laying it down. Quite frankly, probably less than 10% of new wine drinkers are laying anything they purchase down beyond some months.
        As to aging, no I don’t think wines have to have ageworthiness to merit classifying as a serious wine. How many vineyards really think to produce product that they believe clients should hold on to beyond 5 years? Restaurants are a good revenue source for serious wine producers, yet do they want to store until optimum drinking age? Again, no. But discriminating clients know that a large percent of what is on the reds list is not near its peak. And how many somms will respond honestly to whether the wine is truly too young? Were I a restauranteur the wines over $200 on the list would be bought at wine auctions rather than from producers, thus being close or at the best point on the age curve.

  2073. Peter Mansell May 14, 2017 at 10:25 pm

    Great article, Susan! A question…did Patrick Leon create Chateau d’Esclans’rosés such that they could be aged?

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 8:43 pm

      Good question. Yes. Léon told me, as he has said to others, that he and Lichine wanted to make a great rosé. For him, that meant, most importantly, that the wine is able to age and to go with food.

  2074. I will join in and say that I, too, find rosé a serious wine. Sure, there are “fun” pinks out there, as much as there are “fun” reds and whites. Not all wine is made to be serious but those vintners who make it well and are serious about their results, producing wines that deserve attention. Over the past two years while writing my column on food and wine pairings, I have discovered some amazing rosé wines. And, as a cook, there are times when I need a pairing and neither a white or a red seems to fit the bill – the answer, in these cases, if often rosé. Wonderful piece, Susan!

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 8:47 pm

      Excellent points! There are fun and serious rosés–and a whole lot in between–and then there are those rosés that will never cross my lips and stay….JUST LIKE WHITES AND REDS. Rosé’s versatility as a match for food is amazing.

  2075. Susan, what a great article. Well thought out and just really a great read. I happen to agree with you so no need to argue the merits or seriousness of rosé. Cin cin!

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 8:49 pm

      Oh,heck, Penny…we’d better drink some rosés together to make sure we agree! Thanks for the nice feedback!

  2076. Interesting! I guess technically ‘America’ includes North and South America. I am not quite sure you could argue the same about Europe or Australasia though… In Europe where bulk wine is imported and bottled at the destination, I think most of those wines enter the competitions with their country of providence. It seems an unusual choice to do the opposite. But it certainly opens up an interesting discussion!

    And Jerry, yes. You have to come to Mendoza soon! I can show you some native Malbecs 😉

  2077. You have a point, in that the organizers could rename it to the “biggest competition of wines from the Americas.” Then they would just have to hold out the rest of the world.
    A visit to Mendoza remains very much in my thoughts. When is best time to arrive?

  2078. Amanda Barnes May 16, 2017 at 12:22 pm

    I recommend Spring and Autumn! October through early December and late Feb through to mid-April are the best in my opinion!

  2079. Thanks for a great article, Susan. Nice to be included in such company! looking forward to sharing a meal and some fine rose together soon!

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 8:52 pm

      It was particularly fun to play a small role in introducing (good)rosé to you! And, yes, looking forward to that mean and rosé, too!

  2080. As February and March are no fun weather wise here in Mystic, I guess that would be my choice time to come. It also gives me ample time to make plans. I would look forward as we get closer to it for recommendations on hotels, etc.

  2081. jacques Navarre May 17, 2017 at 5:08 pm

    Susan,
    Thank you for this expansive and so interesting report.
    All the points are extremely well made.
    I am particularly sensitive to the Terroir impact, and the winemaker expertise.
    Indeed the statement as the most difficult wine to make is somewhat surprising but after giving more thoughts i will adhere BUT will reserve this statement for the top notch quality wine/wineries.
    Unfortunately it is difficult for most consumers to identify the “good well made rose” ie the serious rose from the too many “crapy rose” you find on shelves today riding on the rose wave.
    This will most probably impact negatively for some time for many to consider the rose as a serious wine.
    Cheers.

    • Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 9:14 pm

      Your point about consumers not being able to distinguish serious rosés from the others is a really important one. Some folks in the industry have suggested developing a tier system although this approach has obvious challenges in developing criteria. There is a classified ranking of estates with a little over a dozen estates being classified as such–but such a designation does not guarantee quality!
      In the mean time, I hope PWZ will eventually cast more light on the subject.

      • A tier system, now there is a thought. I believe Bordeaux on the two or three occasions it has considered revamping their classifications have always settled on market price levels. Leave the job to Wine Spectator and they would place Bagnols at the summit. Can one agree that Garrus should stand head and shoulders above all others?
        A fun exercise perhaps, though likely never to get beyond a round table discussion on the back deck. Or in the pages of Provence WineZine?

  2082. How interesting, and yet somehow I’m not surprised. It seems to me that every where I turn boutique wineries and small outfits are gobbled up by foreign powers. As such, it’s no surprise to me. Perhaps we need the equivalent of a Bernie Sanders in the wine world.

  2083. Yes, Bernie could have a field day in this industry. I don’t begrudge the big juice consolidators from buying foreign. Just acknowledge that even if bottled here in the US at a bonded winery it is anything but an American wine. That is where the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition went off the track two years ago.

  2084. Matthew J Demers May 18, 2017 at 10:44 am

    I cannot state more strongly how important this article is to educate the wine-drinking public on French rosés. You are a true leader in this crusade! Love it. Cheers and keep it coming!

  2085. Excellent article, perfect source material for me to start my own wine competition. Budgeting requires me to avoid the $50 bottles so under $20 is right up my alley! Thanks Jerry!

    • Truly is a lot of good wine out there under 20 bucks. I will raise my hand now as a possible judge when you get your competition going.

  2086. The American vitners are lucky to have a guy like you looking out for them! I myself definitely do not discriminate when it comes to where my grapes are grown but I fully agree with you that when it comes to an American wine competition it should strictly be American grown. Thanks for another revealing read wine maven!

  2087. Crazy world we live in. But I guess alternative facts are becoming a way of life.

  2088. Thanks, Heidi! Always fun to do the research for these articles!

  2089. Susan Manfull May 21, 2017 at 9:33 pm

    Hi Matthew,
    Aw shucks…Many thanks for such an enthusiastic endorsement! I look forward to hearing more about your import business and which rosés make the cut!

  2090. Interesting! Looking forward to the mid June results.

  2091. Mary Norcross May 22, 2017 at 11:44 am

    Thank you Susan and Elizabeth! Our time I. Lourmarin is winding down but we have a new recommendations to try!

  2092. Mary Norcross May 22, 2017 at 1:47 pm

    Hi Susan, just to add to the above: yesterday we went to the Fête Des Vins in Rogne. The tractors were polished up and toward the end paraded through the town. Colorful red canopied tables spread with white table clothes showcased beautiful chilled bottles of wine.
    BUT there were over 40 vineyards represented! How to narrow down the list? Luckily I recognized Château Barbebelle from your post and it was mentioned at your house as being available in NH. We made a beeline for that table. We were able to talk to Madeline Herbeau, the Madeline of Cuvée Madeline. She said her wine were available in NH and I asked if she knew Jacques Navarre. “Oh, yes, he is my colleague “. So thank you Susan and Jacques! We are now 4 bottles heavier! The wine is excellent and a local favorite.

  2093. Susan Manfull May 22, 2017 at 5:47 pm

    Hi Pamela, Let’s get a bottle next time we are together!

  2094. Susan Manfull May 22, 2017 at 5:58 pm

    Hi Pam, The Saint-Roch-les-Vignes coop does not appear on the label; I am only deducing/guessing that the wine comes from that cooperative.
    My suspicion was always Curtis…remember him?

  2095. If I am not mistaken, The San Francisco Chronicle is the name sponsor, but BEVMO is the money sponsor.
    Please pay attention to where the judges live and work. A disproportionate number are from Sonoma County, which explains the sharp bias in the judges palates towards wines whose grapes were predominantly grown in Sonoma County.
    The minority report is that of those wines whose grapes did not and could not grow in Sonoma County. Hence, it would be less biased to describe the event as the Bevmo Sonoma County so-called Wine Competition.

  2096. You have peeled back a layer, judge origin, I had not thought to look into. I really had no reason to, as I was intrigued by the foreign juice awards. I did have one judge get a message to me away from this comments section in Provence WineZine. He is from the northwest, a journalist, and was quite laudatory about the benefits of the competition to the participating wineries from up in that area that bring home awards. I also struggle with determining how rigorous a competition is where 85% of the entries walk away with a prize. Is a $10 Cab that wins a gold as good as a $40 Cab that also scores a gold? Probably not. Oh, but they are not in the same category must be the explanation. Just as no exceptional Division III football teams are invited to the Rose or Sugar Bowl. But if one were? That’s why the film Hoosiers has such lasting appeal. Less awards class distinction based upon price at SFCWC would be fascinating to see. But then there would be less entries, less winners, etc. And that is not likely going to get supporters like the one you mentioned involved.

  2097. A strong part of the motivation for winemakers is to earn shelf position in off-sale stores, like Bevmo, TJ, Whole Foods, & Total Wine. There’s quite a few price points and other fine divisions among categories and origins which justify the number of awards.

    Still, Sonoma centricity stasis/bias limits the credibility of the national competition. They need yearly regional and AVA mobility in their choice of venues and judge sourcing.

  2098. I yield to your marketing expertise in this. My perspective is as a consumer. None of those major retailers exist in my area. I have only the “mom and pop” shops to draw upon, which quite frankly I prefer.

  2099. Susan Manfull May 23, 2017 at 10:20 pm

    A reader thought I might want to know what Anthony Bourdain had to say recently about rosé and I thought you, dear readers, might want to know….

    “Rosé: also known as Hampton’s juice….Look, hot summer months…you know, you are eating a steak, it could be good. It’s a utility drink like a cold beer, good but don’t get too excited about it. It is frightening when you walk into a place and everybody is drinking the same rosé from the same vineyard….it could be worse. It’s like the artisinal doughnut–you can laugh at it, but in the end, you know you want it.

  2100. Susan Manfull May 26, 2017 at 9:51 am

    Hi Mary, The Fête sounds like great fun! How wonderful you had the chance to meet Madeleine. Yes, indeed, her wines are available in NH–in fact, at South Street and Vine, right across from me, both cuvees may be purchased. The Decanter Awards are out and both cuvee Madeleine and Heritage received 90 points !! Provence rosés stole the show! ~Susan

  2101. Wonderful article Susan. I find rose serious and have a Garrus aging in my cellar.

  2102. This news is surprising, mostly as I had no idea of Lucas having an interest in fine wines. I too am a big fan of Margui wines, and look forward with interest to how the future develops.

  2103. Susan Manfull May 28, 2017 at 11:47 pm

    If you want to stock up (as an insurance policy), we tasted the 2016 Pierres Sauvages at Millesime Bio and it was outstanding–Philippe thinks the best vintage yet. That being said, he confirmed no changes winewise!

  2104. Mary Norcross May 29, 2017 at 3:20 am

    Nicely done, Mr. Lucas! The Margui Chateau visit and the wines were a favorite of our Provance Modern Trobador tour group last year.
    Kudos to you, Susan, for finding this vineyard! Mr. Lucas is in good company!

    • Susan Manfull June 4, 2017 at 5:00 pm

      Chateau Margui is a great stop, isn’t it?! I wonder if we will see Mr. Lucas puttering around in one of the gardens…okay, probably not but fun to think about!

  2105. This raises an interesting point. What wines go well with space travel? How would Chateau Margui taste on a space ship accompanied by freeze dried food? In the meantime, i will be sure to taste it on earth.

    • Alas, NASA has a no alcohol policy for space travel. Guess Wine will have to wait for when private enterprise starts shuttling us out there. Yet I do seem to recall one early US space probe where some Zinfandel was taken along. It was chosen as it was billed the one true American wine of repute.

      • Susan Manfull June 4, 2017 at 5:06 pm

        Jerry, really interesting! I wonder what Croatia and Italy had to say about that! Fun fact!

    • Susan Manfull June 4, 2017 at 5:03 pm

      Lisa, Next time you visit, we will open a bottle…and don some space suits!

  2106. Great read! I have to admit that after going so long not drinking (mostly), this reminded me of all that I’ve missed (the Layer Cake Malbec, for one, is an old friend). Not the point of the article, but where my mind drifted to anyway…

  2107. Yet in a way the success of the Layer Cake Malbec, and other foreign sourced juice, at this competition is reason to acknowledge how good these imports can be, and broaden the event to include wines not bottled here.

  2108. Pamela O'Neill June 2, 2017 at 10:01 am

    So true that, once upon a (recent) time, tourists drank any rosé ponked in their glasses, happy just to be basking in the Provence ambiance while doing as the Romans. They certainly weren’t coming here for the wine, which gave little incentive for café owners to up the quality. Now that visitors can distinguish between the good, the bad, and the ugly, the quality of rosé served buy the glass, at least in cafés chez moi, has exponentially improved. Thanks, Susan, for helping spread the word.

  2109. Pamela O'Neill June 2, 2017 at 10:28 am

    I’m pretty sure that I’ll be making all of your “wow” recipies to go with Mirabeau’s lovely wines, David. I am a fan of all three of these wines, each with their own distinctive personality. Thanks for the ideas.

  2110. Pamela O'Neill June 2, 2017 at 10:37 am

    Lucas & Co. made a fine choice! Glad they’re keeping the team.

    • Susan Manfull June 4, 2017 at 5:09 pm

      Yes, very much agree…they made a great choice and yep…I am very glad, too! Cheers to all!

  2111. Pamela O'Neill June 2, 2017 at 12:05 pm

    Just heartbreaking to loose such hard work and pricious vines!

    • Susan Manfull June 4, 2017 at 5:24 pm

      Mother Nature giveth and she taketh away. Heartbreaking, as you write. You should stop by and visit the chateau!

  2112. Wine and jazz are indeed a wonderful pairing. Now tell me what food to add and one has a perfect appeal to the senses.

  2113. As always, lovely article David.

  2114. The thought of a jazz picnic in the vineyards—just lovely.

  2115. A white wine with pork reminds me of my time living in France. It was there that I was first informed that white wine was perfectly acceptable to serve with white meat, which they defined both pork and lamb to be. My father in law Maurice, now 96 and still cooking daily, also opened my eyes and taste buds when first serving up a Sainte Croix du Mont (lesser know sweet wine producing neighbor to Sauternes) with his very creamy blanquette de veau. Delicious together!

    • Jerry – when I was young, pork was only served with red, as you noted. Sometime in the 70s, I recall my parents discussing white wine with pork, but never with lamb… and certainly never red with fish. My how things have changed! I am glad Maurice is still in the kitchen, and that you still get to sharpe meals and wine together!

  2116. Pamela O'Neill June 6, 2017 at 10:31 am

    Hi David. I’ve been dying to try Acquiesce since reading Susan’s article. Not likely so will have to settle for a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape when I make your fab pork dish!

  2117. Well, Pam…. I wouldn’t exactly call that “settling!” Hope you are having a wonderful day!

  2118. Love pianist Jackie Terrason, and sad that we will arrive in Provence a couple of days after his gig in Sant Cannat.

  2119. As a lover of the Rhone wines of France I’m just starting to become familiar with those from CA and WA. Thanks for this interesting article. I look forward to broadening my palate.

  2120. I don’t think I wrote about it in my piece on Acquiesce Winery, but this style of wine is pretty new to me and I am quite impressed. And it looks like I am not alone!

    I loved this piece about Sondra, and the Girl and the Fig. I would love to eat (and drink) there sometime.

    You know, when I was pretty young and new to wine, I went to visit Bonny Donne winery in Santa Cruz, and fell in love with Randall Graham’s wines. I seem to recall that they called him (or he called himself?) the Rhone Ranger. Is he involved in any of this?

    • Acquiesce Winery was there pouring their lovely Rhone-style whites and
      rosé–their whites, especially, are the real deal! Regarding Randall Grahm, he was indeed one of the original Rhone Rangers. Bonny Doon had a table at the tasting but, by the time we got there, we had little time to taste…so we dropped by the tasting room, now located in Davenport, California, just north of Santa Cruz. Great fun! The last photo (above) was taken at the tasting room!

  2121. Robin Lurie -Meyerkopf June 23, 2017 at 1:32 pm

    I have been to the Girl and the Fig – twice! Love this restaurant and their superb wine list! Thanks for the interesting article! Wished I lived closer so I could go more often.

  2122. Steve Edmunds is the MAN. Long before the “terroir” term became an industry byword I knew that I was buying the real deal when I picked up one of his wines. His troika Rocks and Gravel went into my shopping cart almost by itself.

    • We tried the 2014 Rocks and Gravel, just bottled in June. Wonderful although Edmunds said that he thought it could age 25 to 30 years! Do you know what he named one of his concrete tanks? Roxanne Gravel!

      • Naming tanks, now that is a great idea. I am never going to fund a new building at my alma mater, but maybe I can add my name to a large wine storage tank somewhere in Provence. My grand kids would be proud to see it one day.

  2123. Peter Mansell June 25, 2017 at 2:35 pm

    What a nice article about an appellation that few knew about…until now! I have enjoyed the wines from Domaine La Blaque in the past. I did not even know that Saint Jean existed! I will add it to my list of wine visits on my next trip. Thank you for the discovery!

    • Hi Peter,
      Domaine La Blaque also produces some very nice wines and, as you may know, these wines can be found in the U.S. I wrote an article about that estate several years ago. Do look for the Chateau Saint Jean wines!

  2124. Great article and I love the magnificent photos that invite viewers inside. It’s time to open a bottle. Thanks!

  2125. The Girl and the Fig was one of my favorite restaurants in Sonoma and I miss it dearly, along with the entire Sonoma/Napa Valley “wine culture,” having lived in Mill Valley/Marin County for many years. Moved to Arizona in ’06 and currently in Scottsdale — a vastly different flavor profile. Thank you so much for your wonderful articles/posts, as Provence is another place that lays claim to my heart, constantly teasing me to return, again and again.

  2126. SCHOTT PIERRE June 26, 2017 at 2:01 am

    JUST REALY GREAT !!!
    PIERRE

  2127. Jerry, I did not know you were a jazz fan! Jackie Terrasson is a great musician and bridges our two favorite cultures as his mother is African American and his father French. Would like to hear him play anywhere but I think jazz is always better heard when surrounded by vines with a glass of wine in one’s hand!

  2128. Dear Sharon, It sounds like you are due for a trip back to Sonoma and Napa! Short of that, consider: At the Rhone Ranger tasting, there was a winery from Sonoita, Arizona pouring Viognier, Petite Sirah, Syrah, rosé, and Grenache. Unfortunately, we did not make our way to this table in time to taste. If you go (or have been), please let me know. You might feel a bit closer to Sonoma/Napa and Provence!

  2129. I tend to agree with you about Bandol. I suspect it is the priciest appellation in Provence. It’s Rose is certainly the mostly highly touted by Wine Spectator, for what that is worth.

    • Jerry – I have always been one to buy wine because I like it, not because Wine Spectator says I should. As I recall, this Bandol had a very high WS rating, and yet I didn’t love it. That said, I look forward to other Bandols like the one Susan mentions below.

  2130. It’s about 80 degrees, a beautiful day and I was about ready to open a chilled rose, sit on our dock and have a glass with a hamburger, but now I feel I can no longer do that without disrespecting the wine. So one final toast. “Cheers rose, you had your day, oh well, that’s all I have say.”

    Susan, when you ask Jerry to “come out of the cold,” are you suggesting he drink it at room temperature? ??

    • Susan Manfull July 2, 2017 at 5:18 pm

      Oy vey, what kind of burgers are you serving that make you feel you can no longer respect your rosé? I shudder to think of any wine at room temperature…although Jerry may not have to serve his rosé ice cold any longer! Thanks for popping by, Richard!

    • Ah, the what temperature to serve wine question. No, I don’t drink rosé at room temperature. But I always remember a Pawcatuck, CT merchant in my early exploration into wine that advised that even white wine at room temperature was the best way to fully evaluate what it had to offer. A test bottle scenario, as it were. Then buy if appreciated, and set into a bucket of chilled ice water to serve.

  2131. Jerry, did you check if Susan was the winner of those 5 bottles of Domaine Tempier at the auction ? I am having right now a good rosé from Domaine Les Beates ” Les Beatines ” 2016. I don’t believe that rosés will really improve with time. They should be enjoyed in their youth.
    Regards
    Jean

    • Jean,
      If Susan was the buyer she has yet to confess. I know where you are coming from in your approach to rosé. Yet there is enough of a “what may I have been missing” element to storing rosé so that I must give putting some down a try. But which one(s)?

    • Jean, We must get you back to the PWZ tasting table for some aged rosés — I think you, in particular, may think differently about rosé. Their evolution can be fascinating and I suspect you will appreciate it. As for the Domaine Tempier–I wish I had known!

  2132. Jerry,
    If you are looking for an aged rose, if you can find it, try Lopez de Heredia – Vina Tondonia Rosado or believe it or not the Gran Reserva.
    I have not seen this wine mentioned on this website.

    Woody

    • Woody,
      Now Spain is not a locale I associate with premium rosé, though I have the greatest respect for the reds from Vina Tondonia. So thank you for this recommendation. I will definitely seek it out.

    • Hi Woody, I will look for this rosé! Thanks for the tip!

  2133. Peter Mansell July 3, 2017 at 12:12 am

    I have been buying the herbed chèvre logs at the store for many years but don’t know why because it seems so easy to do it yourself and the herbs much fresher! Thanks for the tip! I like Bandols but they are indeed pricey. I have not tried the Terrebrune yet but I am curious to give it try.

    • Thanks, Peter! I hope you enjoy herbing your own cheese – it is really nice to change up the herbs each time for variety. Let me know if you have any Bandols that you would particularly recommend!

  2134. Peter Mansell July 3, 2017 at 12:35 am

    Hi Jerry, I don’t think you can go wrong with stashing a few Tempiers away. I am a big fan of Chateau de Pibarnon rose. I put one away for 4 years before opening the bottle and it was terrific. Lost a bit of fruit but gained in complexity and it held its freshness beautifully. At least you do not have wait 15 years for it show well like a decent Bordeaux!

    • Peter,
      At this point in my life I give a lot of thought to cellar time expectations, thus find your comparison with aging Bordeaux of particular value. One of the reasons I follow wine auctions such as the recent Skinner is to see what might fit my wallet that could be put down for short term storage.By chance we will be in Provence in a week and perhaps will take a drive to Bandol to see why it is so highly touted.

    • Your experience is a great segue to Elizabeth’s comment (below) about how rosés change across time and how we must change our expectations to appreciate them! Thanks!

  2135. Elizabeth Gabay MW July 3, 2017 at 3:25 am

    Just as not all white wines and all red wines can be classified as been fun or serious, neither can all rosés. Just as you would not think of a serious Beaujolais villages wine being a simple quaffer like Beaujolais Nouveau, the same goes for rosé. There are plenty of examples which I agree are perfect for serving iced on a hot summers day. But there are also rosés which are incredible with age. My oldest rosés in recent weeks have been a 1959 Cabernet d’Anjou and a 1992 Provence rosé, a few 2000s, 2001, and 2003s. All amazing. But – this is a bit big but – they are still a ‘new’ taste. They obviousy do not taste like a young fresh fruity rosé and I have watched some wrinkle their nose at the mature flavours. I think they can be wonderful if they retain their essential acidity. The biggest problem is that it istill impossible to classify the quality by variety or region. There are Bandol rosés with very little Mourvedre which age differently to one with large amounts of Mourvedre, there are oak aged rosés which fall apart, there are unknown rosés from small corners of Portugal which astound. It is still a steep learning curve – and I am battling to try and write about them …

    • Elizabeth, What an experience to taste rosés going back to 1959. My Mas Negrel Cadenet flight, stretching back as far as 2002 was an extraordinary experience, but 1959! Your point about aged rosés being a “new” taste and not what one expects is really important ~ that’s part of what makes aged roses so fascinating. Thanks for chiming in!

  2136. Clearly not all Bandols are created equal but when you find a great one, it’s hard to leave the appellation! For me, Chateau Pradeaux–at very minimum a year old–is stellar. 2015 is already to-die-for! Priced slightly less than $30.

  2137. Elizabeth,
    You describe a fascinating, yet seemingly daunting, world of complex rosé experiences. I have not picked up any of the recently published books on rosé and wonder how deeply they delve into aging characteristics. For my part I am ready to take up my staff and trek out to the wine estates with Schweitzerian fervor. Well, perhaps that is an over statement. But as we are staying in Lourmarin next week, so the moment to do so is soon upon me.

  2138. Jerry,
    Have you changed vacation locations from Cucuron to Lourmarin?
    Woody

    • Woody,
      You are a good observer. The place we like in Cucuron has always been a two week rental, until last year when we were only in Provence a few days in November and used Airbnb for a place in Lourmarin. Next week we are back in that area for a week, so came up with another Airbnb selection in Lourmarin that can accommodate four. The nice thing is that there are several nearby villages in that area to draw upon beyond the two mentioned, such as Vaugines and Ansouis.

      • Jerry,
        I have been through that area before many years ago on a long drive trip through out France and loved it.
        How do you all get their transportation wise? Do you fly to Paris? Lyon? Nice? Rent a car?

        Thx,
        Woody

        • In terms of proximity to the Sud Luberon area we target each year Marseilles is closest airport. If coming from Paris area, as we did a week ago, then TGV down to Aix-en-Provence special TGV station and rent a car there. it is located midway between Aix center and Marseille airport. TGV from CDG airport is 3 1/2 hour journey.

  2139. Maven,

    We think you have missed the meaning of “serious wine”. By analyzing the purchase price points, you are discussing the proclivities of “serious” experts like yourself. However, we see a “serious wine” as one that is enjoyed by a large number of consumers. Thus, we think you should be reviewing the volume of consumption as the measure of whether a wine is “serious”. In the small sample of our household, Rose is a very serious wine, and the year round favorite of my wife.

    • Fred,
      Touché! Defining one’s terms is always the correct starting point. Serious for me goes beyond enjoyable. There are other elements, such as age worthiness. But volume of sales is not necessarily a good indicator of quality, though it points out that the product has a broad user base, so it can’t be that bad.
      I am very impressed that in your household rosé is a year round source of drinking pleasure. Bravo to you, and especially Pat.

    • Hi Fred, Your point underscores how varied the rosé category is ~ like reds and whites, there are “serious” wines, fun wines, and everything in between (and there are some pretty awful rosés trying to reap the benefits of rosé’s popularity!). Enjoy your rosés!

  2140. Jerry Being Croatian, I just had a nice Milos Rose from the Peljesac Peninsula of Croatia. The Milos Family is 100% focused on one spot planted with one grape, Plava Mali. So France isn’t the only place for good Roses. Just saying. VTL Isky

    • Joe,
      You are absolutely right ~ I wish we had access to more of those good rosés! (I’d love to go to Croatia!) Provence is the largest producer in France where, in 2015, 30% of the world’s rosés were made, and they market them very well and they are, over all, exceptional…but there are others! Thanks for making that point clear and for recommending one!

  2141. Brother Isk,
    Though I likely have less of a Croatian bloodline than you (only my maternal grandfather), you are way ahead of me, both on going back to the old country, or trying its wine. But I am taking note of what you advise.
    Needle

  2142. Hello to Jerry and Susan – and thanks to both for bringing up a conversation about rosé. Rosé seems to be emotionally situated somewhere that white and red wines just never enter. I will say that my most popular post continues to be one titled Rosé or Rosato? Is There a Difference? This causes me to wonder if people are looking to understand rosé, which may prove to be more enigmatic — causing each of us to come forth with a certain style of drinking it… some of us defending its credibility as others want to glug. And the education lies everywhere in the middle! I find rosé to be fascinating and appealing, but a much broader and more complex wine category that many conversations let on.

  2143. There is something about a thick handful of fresh summer herbs and creamy chevre — and Bandol is fascinating, always a compelling wine for taste and for good chat!

    • That is, indeed, a good way to start any summer recipe: a handful of fresh herbs and creamy chèvre! Looking forward to more of that and Bandol this summer! Thanks as always, Jill, for reading and commenting!

  2144. I suppose because rosé’s heritage as a simple, fun-loving wine (in fact, an afterthought in most cases early on), it needs to fight harder to break out of the glugging category. With education and experience–and the dramatic quality improvements in rosé–people are learning and having a great time doing so! Thanks for popping by, Jill!

  2145. Love experimenting like this- off the path, different. Haven’t had much Tavel anything, will look for this one as I’d love to recreate your dish ;-D

    • Thanks, Lynn! I’ve just enjoyed some time on Savor the Harvest and really appreciate what you and Mark are doing!

  2146. Jerry and Susan,

    I have to say that I enjoyed this article – and the sparkling repartee between the two of you. Always good to find out something new about ourselves! “Quaffing wines” is a perfect term for any color of wine, actually, and there are plenty out there. As Fred points our, “serious” is in the eyes (and on the palate) of the beholder. There are many serious Italian wines that don’t get a second whiff from me, because to my palate, they are too tannic and unpleasant.

    This brings me to something Susan and I have discussed – is there a study out there on how people’s palates are different? Why is Pinot Grigio so light, refreshing, and appealing to some, and akin to vinegar to others? Who do some like tannic wines, while others look for jam and pepper? I suppose it is no different from how people perceive art. It is fascinating!

    I hope you have both had wonderful weekend… we sit here in the desert hoping and praying for rain.

  2147. David,
    I am answering you from the tourist office during the market morning here in Cucuron, so must be quick as I am the packhorse for the provisions my wife is grabbing. There is a study on this subject which indicates just where in our brain our tastes are determined, but it will have to wait before I can get you the reference.
    Ciao,
    Jerry

    • Hi David,
      It’s such a fun discussion. We had a small tasting of mostly premium roses the other night. They were all outstanding but, interestingly, the least expensive rosé — one that I tossed in the ring at the last moment because I love it so much– tied with the most expensive. Price is not the best indicator although if no other information is available, it is informative.

      To your second point, that is a fascinating subject. Wine Folly has some very basic but interesting material on why our individual experiences are different.

      While tasting wine with Sue Tipton at her Acquiesce Winery in Lodi, California, the subject surfaced. She recommended at new book which I later purchased–Neuroenology: How the Brain Creates the Taste of Wine. Thus far, very interesting. The author says that, the taste of wine (and food) “engages more of the brain than any other human behavior.”
      Wine and food certainly keep the brain stimulated!

    • Jerry, I know exactly where you were standing! One of my very favorite markets! I am sure you had a wonderful dinner with all the goodies you took back from the market! What wine accompanied your repas?
      Enjoy!

  2148. Elizabeth Gabay MW July 14, 2017 at 3:00 am

    Nice article! I recognise that Roquefort and the old Mordoree wines!

  2149. What an informative article. I was unaware of Tavel and now look forward to finding one and to perhaps be lucky enough to visit the Village.

    • Heidi, It sounds like you might be in that part of the world next year! In the mean time, a more pedestrian place to find some good bottles is in the NH State Liquor Store and, interestingly, in Hannaford, on sale!

  2150. SCHOTT PIERRE July 15, 2017 at 4:44 am

    FAMOUS PHOTOGRAPHS ! FOR THE EXPRESSION “1ER ROSÉ DE FRANCE” : “ES WAR EINMAL !”, WOULD SAY GERMAN PEOPLE WITH A STALK OF MOCKERY (MARVELOUS EXPRESSION = SOMETHING LIKE “ONCE THERE WAS…” = “IL FUT UN TEMPS…”). “SOLEILLEUSES” PENSÉES VERS VOUS TOUS…

    • Hi Pierre,
      I, too, agree that Towny got some super photographs! As for the status of Tavel, let’s share some of our favorite bottles of Tavel when with are with you, soon! We can’t wait to see you and Muriel!

  2151. Great article, Susan! I have enjoyed Tavel’s for many years and you are right that they are hard to find. I can usually find a Guigal or D’Aqueria in a store near me but often one only has the choice of one or the other. Fortunately, both are very enjoyable. I think Tavels are a great value–a cru wine that is very food friendly for under $20 . Thanks for reminding us to rediscover a bottle of Tavel!

    • Hi Peter, Just this morning, my husband saw Chateau d’Aqueria prominently displayed in our local (rather uninspired) grocery store! Who would have guessed!

  2152. As you know, I really enjoyed the Tavel I paired with the duck hash – so full bodied and luxurious both in flavor and texture. I keep looking for others… but, as you say, they are hard to find.

    • As I just wrote to Peter (above), Towny saw Chateau d’Acqueria “on the top of the endcap” (that is prominently displayed) in, of all places, Hannaford (aka the Pic ‘n Pay)! There are some truly outstanding Tavel wines but, as I wrote, production is small, demand in the States heretofore is low. But Provence Rosé was in a similar position not long ago!

  2153. Hah! I know exactly where you are (were) standing, too, Jerry! Cucuron is my favorite market if, for nothing else, its sheer beauty!

    I look forward to reading more on the subject – perhaps the Neuroenology book is the same you were thinking of, Jerry? If not, I will be curious to find out what your reference is.

  2154. David,
    It seems to be the same book Susan references. I have yet to get into it. Will do so on our return home.
    We love Cucuron and now end in Lyon. Small to large, yet each so enjoyable.

  2155. Great read! I love Tavel with roasted poultry (it is my go-to wine at Thanksgiving) and also roasted vegetables in the fall. I think I might try it with salmon next.

  2156. Great to see you give Tavel the recognition it deserves. I am with Win on this – Tavel IS simply Tavel. Hope you and Towny when hearing about the devastation incurred by phylloxera did not get the “thank you, America – NOT” message that sometimes comes out from the French when talking of it.

  2157. David, this is why I enjoy reading Provence WineZine…I had no idea that AZ made drinkable wines and certainly did not expect a GSM blend rosé! The recipe looks fabulous even if I am unlikely to find the Rune wine to pair with it! I am adding Rune to my wishlist for my next visit to AZ! Thanks for letting us about this rosé.

    • Peter – thanks for your note! Arizona makes a lot of wine, much of which is forgettable. However, there are a few wineries – Rune among them – that are making excellent wines. If you get to Tucson, let me know – it would be a pleasure to take you to our wine country (about an hour south of Tucson) for a tasting. In the meantime, I think you will enjoy this braised chicken with any good rosé, red, or white wine!

  2158. Discovering Rune wines was certainly filled with serendipity and coincidences! I loved reading the story even though I was a part of it! I’m eager to get out to Arizona to try James’ wines (as well as see you and Mark!). In the meantime, I have some wonderful Tavels that will likely pair well, too, eh?

    • Susan – I really promise to send you a bottle soon! Maybe even before you get out here! Yes, you should definitely try the chicken with one of your Tavels!

  2159. Lovely descriptions David. Curious label and name—Rune. I love full-bodied, full flavored roses. Perhaps I can talk Susan into an East Coast tasting?!

  2160. I love Bandol wines – red, white and rosé – but agree that they can be pricy. One very good rosé that is more reasonably priced is Bastide Blanche. I think it has pretty good distribution in the US so you might be able to find it. It’s at least 75% Mourvedre which gives it some oomph.

    • Thanks for that tip, Keith! I am going to the wine store today here in Tucson, but am in LA at his weekend and will look for Bastille Blanche in both places.

  2161. I called it “Drinking School.” Studied with Spurrier in the early 70’s at his Vin Ecole in Les Caves de La Madeline in Paris.Had trouble spitting out the wine at school…who could blame me… and trouble getting home.Don’t remember if I graduated. A wonderful time.

  2162. Tavel is in a category of its own, I agree!
    Re Phylloxera, of course, Tavel is very close to Pujaut where most people think the initial infestation took place but we did not get the “thank you, America – NOT” message you mention…in fact, I’ve never gotten that. Maybe the winemakers I’ve interviewed are particularly polite!

  2163. Hi Susan, thank you for your very interesting article. A few words in your article did peak my curiosity when you stated that Château Sainte Marguerite is a “registered vegan” wine. I have never heard about wine being vegan! Please explain! As I often eat meat with my wine, this is not a big selling point for me but I am wondering how a wine can be either vegan or non-vegan!

    • I was curious about this “registration,” too. I learned that whether a wine is vegan or not stems from the clarification step that may be included winemaking. All wines contain small molecules (e.g., phenolics,proteins) that make the wines appear hazy. To ensure that a given wine is clear (or to hasten the process), wines are “fined” with the help of “fining agents” that adhere to the haze-causing molecules that are then “filtered” out. The most common fining agents are animal products (e.g., egg whites and gelatin, among other non-vegan agents). While these agents are removed (with the dreaded hazy molecules), trace animal elements can remain. Nowadays, with the growing interest in “natural” wines, clay-based fining agents (e.g., bentonite) or activated charcoal are used instead. I don’t know what Château Sainte Marguerite uses but it is not animal based.
      By the way, I recently opened another bottle of this wine while in Provence and enjoyed it even more than the aforementioned one that had made the voyage across the Atlantic to New York. Cheers!

      • Have you tried a glass with a just picked Morrel Mushroom (in season here) or Fresh Filet it has the UMPH! for both. I guess the Author felt it was worth mentioning just like I liked mentioning Morrels are in season and I am hunting and eating my fill. Silly me.

  2164. That was a no brainer! All you need to know is Chapoutier, no mystery here.

  2165. It doesn’t matter what time of day or night I read your posts, they always make me hungry, yearning for wine, and curious about the recipes. Now I know what I’m having for dinner—and dessert tonight!

  2166. I am so grateful that you recommend Walter to me a couple of months ago. He has been responsive and lovely to all of my requests. Best of all he found the absolute perfect villa for me and my husband to rent for our five months in France, for a price we could afford, in the short timeframe we needed to begin to secure or French Visa. I highly recommend him, and Lourmarin, to anyone considering a trip. Thanks Susan and please give my heartfelt thanks to Walter.

  2167. Hi Susan,
    Nice article!
    While you joke about some people thinking that rosé is made by blending red and white wines, a few years ago there actually was a move afoot to allow that in the European Union. A proposal was making good progress with the bureaucrats in Brussels until the French stepped in an squashed the idea. This was about the same time that Brussels was trying to get rid of raw milk cheese, which caused untold “colère” in France until this proposal was also killed.
    If you want to rile up a French person, start messing with their cheese or wine. It gets ugly in a hurry!

    • So true! Thankfully,they are so adamant about the quality of their food and wine, even down to the local level at the markets. A vendor who sells inferior products will never survive in the local market! Thanks for mentioning that important part of this story! Long live the crusaders of French cuisine!

  2168. It would be fun to have a blind tasting of several Vermentino and Rolle wines. Let’s plan that!
    I am glad that Evan’s book provided some inspiration and pairing guidance (always welcome at my table!). I had the pleasure of meeting him at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers at the Meadowood in Napa Valley.
    Finally, this pairing sounds great!
    Thanks, as always, for your contribution to Provence WineZine!

  2169. It would be fun to do a blind tasting! We had a vermentino from Liguria on Saturday and it was completely different from the Tuscan vermentino. Truly fascinating stuff!

    I love Evan’s book – such a great resource!

  2170. Likewise I am a big fan of Vermentino, but more with the French offerings. I have yet to find an Italian one locally to me, though I have not looked that deeply into it. My impression is that in France, unlike Italy, Rolle is rarely used as a sole grape offering. More often I see it mixed with Ugni Blanc (Ugly Betty as I refer to it). I am working up a blind tasting of Provencal whites soon which I intend to slip in a 100% Vermentino I picked up in North Carolina two years ago. More on that to follow in Provence WineZine.

    • Jerry! I thought I had responded to your note – my apologies! I just received two bottles of Rolle fro France and can’t wait to pair them. I am not too familiar with Ugni Blanc (Ugly Betty) so will start keeping my eyes open for it in my blends.

  2171. Very interesting! I wrote about harvesting the grapes in my latest book and am pleased to say I didn’t write anything out of place although my harvest might have been slightly late – early September in the Var.
    Thank you – I enjoyed reading this…

    • Hi Jane,
      I have been meaning to read your first book — Thirty-five minutes from St Tropez — and now there is another! Wow! Good for you! For other readers who are behind, it is called “Stolen Summer.”
      I will look forward to reading them both when the days get shorter, here in New England. Thanks for your note!

  2172. Great report. Suggests the 2017 vintage from those areas will be a good news/bad news scenario for us here in America. Quality remarks are refreshing. As to making up income shortfall I suspect the better producers there will want to keep prices in line for the local market, and pick up increases on bottles headed into export pipeline. Top importers here (Lynch, Dressner, etc) will not flinch in taking up prices on wines they have successfully developed a market for, nor will their clients likely balk. Cassis going up from normal price range of mid $30’s by 10% to 20% should not turn many fans away. They just want to see it continue to come into their cellar.

    • It will be interesting to see what happens…I’ll check back next summer to see if there is a shift upward yet!

  2173. These are some of the same issues winemakers are facing in Italy. The drought there brought equally small but high-quality grapes… IF the vineyard had enuuogh vines. Small family producers were telling us that, for them, there would be no 2017 wines. They were just going to skip the year. I am so sad for them…did you find the same with small vineyards in Provence?

    • Ugh. That’s heartbreaking (not to mention bank breaking). I did not hear of complete losses from those with whom I spoke. You were probably talking to much smaller producers than I was (all the more heartbreaking). I will say, though, that I am always amazed at the emotional and personal resiliency of winemakers and producers.

  2174. Hi Susan, interesting update from Provence. It continues to amaze me how winemakers everywhere persevere despite all the variables and risks they face each year. Winemakers are the most passionate and resilient of any group of entrepreneurs that I can think of! We can all thank them by drinking their wine and encouraging them to return for another harvest! My heart goes out to the Napa and Sonoma winemakers that are facing the fires now and to the Provence domaines that have been decimated by the 2017 harvest. I am reminded of the story of Château Roquefort that lost all its production due to hail in 2012 and how the wine community came together to help them out! Here is a link to the story for those interested in reading about it… http://bit.ly/2ztqBfP .

    • My heart is warmed by such stories and I completely concur with you that, as a group, those in the wine business are indeed very resilient. There are so many factors that can and do wreak havoc in one’s business but they seem to carry on much better than I would!

  2175. Wow. Interesting read… Given the similar challenges faced by vineyards in Provence and California this year, I wonder if there will be any convergence in their flavors.

    • Hi Alex,
      I wonder if there will also be more of an exchange on how to deal with such challenges of nature. Interesting questions. Thanks for your note!

  2176. Vermentino is the primary white varietal on the island of Sardinia, with plantings going back (perhaps) to pre-history. A personal favorite is Costamolino.

    • That is great intel, Win! I will keep an eye out for it, although I do live in somewhat of a wasteland when it comes to unusual wines!

      Hope you are both doing well. Miss seeing (and drinking with) you!

  2177. Susan, thank you again for your well researched blog!! I am always trying to train my palate, and I plan to try the Kale rosé while reading Viktorija’s comments.

    It was good to hear that Kick Vineyards escaped major damage.

    • Hi Mary,
      Thanks for the kind words. It is an exceptionally good producer. It was really fun to taste them with Viktorija who knows Provence rosés so well and to find she loved them both so much.
      It is impossible to describe the destruction of those fires and the impact they will have for many years. I can’t imagine how everyone in that area feels. Looking forward to opening more bottles together!

  2178. OMG! Talk about carrying coals to Newcastle. You actually lugged our stuff over to be tried in the fountainhead of rosé, and they liked it? Impressive report. Perhaps in another decade of serious development in America we can pit them together ala a Judgment of Paris test.

  2179. Hi Jerry,
    Yes, it was an unusual for us…but well worth the weight. We took a few others over from California that also were very well received. Judgment of Provence can’t be too far off!

  2180. Another great article, Susan! I was not expecting to discover a domestic rosé in Provence WineZine. It is good to know that winemakers here are taking rosé seriously. I look forward to trying Kale Wines and the others you referenced in the notes below the article. Ironic that it may be easier to find good French rosés on the shelves back East than ones coming from California!

    • Hi Peter,
      That is a very interesting point about retail shelves in the east. I wonder what the shelves in the west hold for rosé buyers. I will be in California in December and will check. Thanks for your kind feedback!

  2181. I will have to look for Kale rosé here in Tucson! It sounds fantastic, Susan.

    • Hi David,
      I don’t think you will find Kale wines in Arizona, at least now. They are well worth ordering through their website (or perhaps I can squeeze one into my suitcase for a tasting in Tucson!).

  2182. While surely not her intent, RAW WINE creator Isabelle Ledoyen has exposed what I consider the Achilles heel in our gigantic wine producing industry, ie. its virtual indifference to natural wines. If 2,000 paid visitors can cover her costs she could expand her event beyond Brooklyn and Los Angeles to a dozen other metropolitan centers, which I believe would welcome its arrival.

    • I just left a meeting with three women who are very smart and savvy — especially about healthy food and alternative medicine — none of whom knew about natural wines. Educating consumers to ask questions about what’s in that bottle, as Isabelle Legeron makes clear, is what’s needed to compel the wine industry to change (coupled, of course, with demand for organic wines made with minimal intervention in the cellar).

  2183. Thank you for the informative post. As an admitted novice, yet lover of good wine, I have thought of Chateau d’Esclans as the Chateau for the finest rose. Their Garrus hold a special place in my heart. I will now explore further, perhaps with a risotto aux St. Jacques and the Deesee Astree. Merci.

    • Ooh! A risotto with Saint Jacques would be exquisite with the Déesse Astrée, Heidi! And, yes, the rosé wines from Château d’Esclans are incredibly special, though I’ve never been fortunate enough to try the Garrus!

  2184. Ooh! A risotto with Saint Jacques would be exquisite with the Déesse Astrée, Heidi! And, yes, the rosé wines from Château d’Esclans are incredibly special, though I’ve never been fortunate enough to try the Garrus!

  2185. I look forward to your thoughts on Bandol’s Château Sainte Anne and the Rhone Valley winemakers. My initial experience years ago with “organic” wines in the US was disappointing. Now that I am living half-time in France I would love to explore this further. And, to meet Isabelle Legeron—formidable!

    • In Lourmarin is a small estate, Chateau Fontvert….they are a biodynamic producer with some very nice wines in all three colors. Take a walk over to visit them and taste their wine. I don’t know that they are “natural wines” but they are organic wines crafted with care. There are many organic producers in the area–oh, you will have fun!

  2186. I love rose but have been a bit skiddish to try roses under $15 as I have had some less-than-ideal experiences. I do however look forward to trying all three of the above. Thanks so much.

  2187. I know where you are coming from. Most of what I have seen that appeals is in the $17 to $23 zone. I would like to lay some down to see how they develop, but think that is only safest to do with Bandol’s, and they don’t exist in that price range.

  2188. Jeez, I’ve fallen behind. Didn’t know d’Esclans was doing a Rolle. Any wood aging? Must take it for a drive. It’s a bit cher, rivaling lots of the Rolle from Bellet.

    • Pam- thanks for catching that.; I meant to mention it my piece. The fermentation happens in “new and second year demi-muids for 10 months in a Burgundian style,” according the the Château’s website. Yes, it is pricey – I am curious to hear about the other Rolles available!

  2189. Hope that you and Towny are having a wonderful time at Raw Wine and look forward to your report.

    • Indeed we did! Watch for an article on these “pages”! We visited all the Rhone producers and the singular Provence producer–we needed a week!

  2190. Very interesting, wine snoop. Did some snooping on your snooping. The Kirkland Signature Rosé Côtes de Provence is made by Domaine de la Croix down on the St. Tropez Peninsula in La Croix-Valmer. Have had their rosés before – very nice. Sounds as though this blend is very similar to their Cuvée Irrésistible (and the bottle too) though with slight differences. Would be fun to do a side by side.

  2191. Great post from a jazz aficionado. I made it to Chateau de Berne and a jazz picnic at Château Nestuby, here in Cotignac, this summer. Highly recommended. Will contribute a local Var list next year.

  2192. Though nothing compared to the shame inspired by our fearless leader, U.S. rosés have not slouched in that arena. Pride resuscitate by your discovery. Loved your description of tasting at Meadowood Napa Valley. Would like to get my little hands on soome of that!

    • There is no real reason why U.S. rosés can’t be better. Not that they must follow the Provence formula for success by any means, but with more dedication to that color wine, we will see more successes. Yep, you must try the Kale rosés as well as a few others from the U.S. that I am very fond of. (And best not to refer to your hands as little these days!)

  2193. Hi Jerry. I went to a Cotignac wine club Vermentino/Rolle tasting a couple of years ago (wrote a snoop about it). We had Italian wines from Tuscany, Liguria, and Sardinia as well as Provence wines from Côtes de Provence and Bellet. We prefered the Provence selections. All were 100% Rolle except for one that was 10% Grenache Blanc. No Bettys. One notable difference between italian and French is that none of the Italians had any wood aging, as typical, and about half of the French offerings did.

  2194. Well knock me over with a feather Jerry. Thought your place on the bus would remain forever vacant. I have a Burgundy/Bordeaux loving wine expert, merchant, friend (who will remain nameless)here in Cotignac who cannot quite manage to subdue a curl to lip when discussing rosé. Perhaps you’ll have “a talk” with him when your conversion has advanced?

  2195. I think that makes a difference vs. the Italians who usually don’t go near wood for Vermentino.

  2196. Leap-froging your snoop I have tried to source the Kirkland Signature Rosé somewhere close to home. The nearest Wine-Searcher came up with is Mexico City! Amazon was even less helpful, but I now know that a 10 pound sack of Kirkland Signature Organic Sugar is only 18 bucks. Guess my tasting on this will have to await a visit to Provence next summer.

  2197. Ha, ha. Jancis Robinson talking old Rosé while in Bandol got me thinking I had been too harsh. I am always ready to re-assess prior prejudices. For example, I now have added excellent examples of Muscadet and Beaujolais to the cave, which I thought would never happen.

  2198. It’s a private label wine made for Costco. Get your membership card Jerry!

  2199. Now that will never happen. I do the food shopping every day, just as if we were still living in France. I wonder about Domaine de la Croix supplying Costco, as I suspect it is more than their vineyard can produce. They must be delighted with the volume, though its likely Costco has squeezed them hard on the price.

  2200. I agree that with such a large group of vineyards represented, and many pouring 5+ wines, it just can’t be covered by one person in the time allotted. I expect the LA event will also sell out. Not surprising that some of the foreign estates are skipping out of the western edition. Only two from your NY target list will be in California (Ch. Ste. Anne and Le Clos de Caveau).

  2201. Your closing sentence could have been the opening line to this very needed piece on what sets natural wine apart. It would add emphasis to a movement, well not really that yet, which surely more drinkers will come to address. Personally, I doubt it has yet to reach 1%, but believe Millennials in particular will push it to the forefront of what they want from wine-growers, which one day might take it to 5% of what is sold in the US.
    As for me, I have read through the artisan exhibitor listings for both RAW WINE New York and L.A., and come out the other side joining for the first time a wine club of a natural wine producer here in America.

    • It’s a complex market, it seems. Certain geographic segments of our country are seeing noticeable growth. I read in a Meininger’s Wine Business article that “Seminal natural-wines distributor Jenny & Francois reports a doubling in sales over the last five years, and now sells to 23 states.” Whole Foods Market is a big driver. On the other hand, other big distributors are rather dismissive of natural wine.

      In this country, it is hard enough for a consumer to identify an organic wine, let alone a natural one so the onus is on the distributor and retailer to market them clearly…and to educate consumers about why they would want to go to the trouble of identifying them and finding them. Thus, natural wine need to attract the attention of more wine writers…which, in fact, it appears to be doing in mainstream publications, as evidenced by recent articles in Vogue and Bon Appetit, as well as on significant blogs.

      Yeah, I agree that millennials will play a large role in driving sales and market interest. RAW WINE NYC 2017 had a larger proportion of under-35-year-olds, based on our observations. Nielson data (2015) suggests 65% of US millennials were interested in the category (cited in aforementioned article). And, millennials are the largest category of wine drinkers in our country AND they are willing to spend more than the other categories. In 2015, 17% of millennials were willing to spend upwards of $20 a bottle, compared to 10% in other age groups.

      They are powerful and, if they buy into natural wine, numbers will go up, assuming retailers and restaurants/bars stock their shelves and add them to winelists, importers bring them in and domestic winemakers increase production, and the wines are more consistently good. Still, it has to go mainstream, too.

      Keep us posted on your new membership!

  2202. Hi Susan, Interesting article, as usual! My only experience of this type of wine was at The Tasting Counter in Somerville, MA. It is a 20 person restaurant and only serves raw wine/cider/beer. The chef chooses the accompaniment to the food. I must admit I was not a fan, but maybe we could
    try it again sometime.

    • Hi Mary, I would love to try The Tasting Counter! Portsmouth, NH has a new natural wine bar I have yet to try but it looks very good!

  2203. I would love to have explored the diversity of wine more fully…Two days is not enough!

  2204. Very funky looking group. Could have been 70s/80s California. Must check out some local natural wines.

    • Chateau Revelette, not too far from your stomping groups, has a terrific Carignan, naturally produced. Put on your funky clothes and give that a whirl!

  2205. I’m not there in US of A but have heard chatter in the oufield re Costco’s wines. And it’s good. Snoop?

  2206. Well, I guess they sell a ton of wine. I will never see it first hand though, as Benedicte is about as likely to join Costco as she is to take a cruise on what she terms floating hotels.

  2207. Now this was fun – lots of fabulous old friends suggested and new ones to meet. I propose a Team Winezine pilgrimage to Provence next year for a Thanksgiving throwdown. Let’s put these picks to the test! But, please, someone bring the bird or we’ll be waiting till Christmas for Tom Turkey to appear on French supermarket shelves!

    • Pam – your dinner sounds wonderful! And I love your recommendations, as well.

      • Thank you David! That’s high praise indeed coming from our resident wine and food pairing guru and chef of Cocoa and Lavender fame. And I would definitely serve a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape with the whole turkey extravaganza. Parfait!

    • Echoing David and Paula’s comments, your menu does sound delicious and I love the wine choices! Tom Bove’s Bomont De Cormeil’s Viognier is an especially brilliant pairing for the grilled pear and Roquefort salad. I remember well the hunt for the turkey when we were in France the first November and, in the end, our rotisserie vendors could have lassoed one for us but, in the end, we opted for the chapon (aka capon) to inject some French into our American meal. Happy Thanksgiving!

  2208. Having recently arrived in Lourmarin I can’t wait to check out the Veyriers and their rotisserie. Friday come soon!

  2209. Thanks so much Susan. I just passed the gallery this morning. Next time I will venture in.

  2210. Oh my—having recently arrived in Lourmarin I had totally forgotten that Thanksgiving is soon here. These delightful recommendations will certainly help my planning.

  2211. Enjoyed your post. Got a few giggles reading about Thanksgiving misadventures. And my mouth was watering for pumpkin and orange soup with herbs and saffron. Any chance Ms O’Neill would share the recipe?

    Happy Thanksgiving to all of you.

    • I agree with you Paula – I would love the recipe for the pumpkin and orange soup! Maybe since we both asked…?

      • Salut Paula and David. Happy to share my pumpkin soup recipe. So kind of you to ask! It’s easy peasy, totally luscious, and, best of all, can be made in advance – way in advance if you freeze it.
        Just cut your pumpkin into wedges – don’t bother peeling – and throw them on a baking sheet with roughly chopped onion, halved oranges or clementines (I prefer clementines), unpeeled garlic cloves, a chilli pepper or two, and fresh woody herbs (sage, rosemary, thyme). Then add a glug of olive oil, a drizzle of maple syrup, a sprinkle of salt and pepper and toss. Cook at around 350°F, tossing occasionally, till tender with tasty caramelised bits. In the meantime, heat up some chicken broth, white wine, and sprinkle with crushed saffron threads. Puree the peeled pumpkin with your appliance of choice and add the warm liquid, with juice squeezed from roasted oranges/clementines, to desired consistency. At this point, you can refrigerate/freeze the soup till the big day.
        When reheated, add as much cream as you like. I serve the soup sprinkled with sage leaves fried in butter, also done in advance (keep the cooled crispy leaves in a sealed container). Before serving, drizzle with anything you fancy such as warmed butter reserved from frying sage, truffle oil, maple syrup, bourbon or rum, crème fraiche…
        Bon appétit!

        • Awesome! Thank you

        • Gosh, this sounds yummy…and I love the part about freezing it until the big day! Thanks for sharing Pam!

        • Merci, Pam – this does sound super easy and yet exudes such elegance!

        • Pam,
          Thanks for stirring things up on our home front. I read about your pumpkin soup and remembered that Ben had made it once when we lived in Lyon, but not for turkey day.
          Now I have reminded her of this, so there is some hope I can have it once again next year
          (we are invited out in Illinois this holiday).

  2212. This was great fun, Susan – I probably should have gone on a bit more about how much I can’t stand most Thanksgiving wine recommendations that we see in U.S. publications. The choices are usually thin, wiry and (to me) tasteless… but, because they are in print (thus, must be true and not fake news) people adhere to the suggestions.

    The above are all so wonderful and creative, and I would love to share the table (and kitchen) with all of you!

  2213. Nice post Susan. I think you should find a cartoon of a turkey with a beret!

    Also I feel in good company now knowing that Thomas Jefferson liked Vin Cuit!

    Happy Thanksgiving!…Michael

    • I shared the idea of a French turkey with Mike Dater, our resident cartoonist/illustrator/artist, so maybe next Thanksgiving (or even Christmas as that is when the French eat their turkeys!) I love the idea!

      Re the Vin Cuit….It is available for purchase in the U.S. Mas de Cadenet Vin Cuit, my personal favorite, could be found last holiday season in several retail stores in New York and New Jersey: Hudson Wine Merchants (ask for Jess if you have questions), Gary’s Wine and Marketplace, Brix. I’m told it is also on the wine list at Le Bernadin in Manhattan and at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, New York. I hope it is the same this year (and, if anyone wants to know, drop me a line and I will check!)

  2214. Hi Susan,
    I just loved reading today’s suggestions for French wines for Thanksgiving! Your stories of Thanksgivings past were so much fun to read as well! Also, who is your illustrator? The illustrations so beautifully match your writing!

    Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.

    • Hi Eileen,
      Thanks for that nice feedback about this post — it was great fun to put together, too! — and regarding our resident illustrator, Mike Dater. His work may be found throughout this blog (search Mike Dater in our search box) and you can read more about him on the contributors’ page: https://www.provencewinezine.com/contributors/ . We love his work, too! Some of his work is available for purchase, too!

  2215. Hi Susan and Contributors, you outdid yourselves this time! Great picks that would add some life to any Thanksgiving party. This time of year, one expects the obligatory Pinot Noir options from the press but not a one from Provence WineZine! I never would have thought of a Vouvray Demi Sec but it makes sense and is likely to appeal to non-wine drinkers at the table. Many of the wines will be hard to find over here but I know I can find a Tavel or two. May give Tavel a try this year! Thanks for wonderful picks…now what about Christmas dinner?

    • Hello Peter, Thanks for the enthusiastic endorsement of our list! If you do give Tavel a try, I’d love to hear what you think! I will tuck away your idea that we regroup and suggest some wines for Christmas! Happy Thanksgiving!

    • Peter,
      You likely know the South Africans never lost their taste for Chenin Blanc, and may be easier for you to find in your area. I cannot recommend any particular ones, as I still feature those wonderful Vouvrayans (no idea if this if how they identify themselves).

  2216. Hi Pam and Jerry,
    Great sleuthing Pam on the provenance of the Kirkland rosé. Jerry, did you know that in certain states one does not need to be a member of Costco to buy wine and liquor? Read here…https://www.buzzfeed.com/hannahloewentheil/xx-secrets-for-buying-wine-and-liquor-at-costco?utm_term=.bo0rpRP5O#.dkWwJ3N05. If you live near CA, MA or CT, you are in luck! My concern is that “Kirkland” is a Costco private label brand and therefore there is no guarantee that Domaine de la Croix will get the contract again. Best bet is to buy up all the 2016 Kirkland Rosé that you can find!

    • Interesting article, Peter. Who knew? (Well, other than the tens of thousands who made Costco the largest US wine retailer.)

    • Peter,
      Many thanks for that bit of info on Costco. Had no idea, but clever move on their part.
      I believe you are making the best point in noting that when they change sources the buyer may never know.

  2217. Hi Susan, It sounds like it was a great time at RAW WINE. I get the sense that natural wines are a hit-or-miss situation. How can one tell if a wine is “natural” or not if there is no certification or if it is not evident on the label? On a different subject, if one has to rely on published wine scores to differentiate the good natural wines from the bad, scores are so inflated these days that they are not even helpful!

  2218. I love Rolle! I’ve had Tuscan, Ligurian, Sardinian and Provençal versions, including in a blind tasting, and prefer the wines from Provence. I agree that they seem more a bit more complex. Château Romanin, just outside of St.-Rémy, makes a particularly fine version.

    • Thanks for your comment, Keith! I think Pam nailed it when she pointed out that Provence Rolle is aged in wood, whereas the others aren’t. It makes for a much more complex and full-bodied wine.

    • Hi Keith, I would love to do such a blind tasting! Did you read the recent Food and Wine pairing that David Scott Allen posted? As a Rolle fan, I encourage you to check it out. (Posted November 5 2017.) I know Château Romanin but I don’t know their Rolle–I will check it out when I am in that neck of the woods in the winter! Thanks for the tip!

  2219. Unless the producer has indicated on the label that the grapes are organic and the wine has had minimal intervention, (i.e., minimal sulfur added, no yeast added, hand harvested, etc.), one would not know by looking at the bottle. “Natural Wine,” as I understand it, cannot be written on the label in the U.S. or Europe. Many of the natural wine producers opt not to be certified “organic” or “biodynamic” because it is expensive. Google the producer to find out for sure. There is a certain amount of trust that is necessary in this wine category. Whether it is good or not is another open question–many natural wine producers are small and don’t attract the attention of journalists or wine reviewers. Inflated reviews–well, that’s whole ‘nother can of worms!

  2220. Great to see wine recommendations for vegetarian thanksgiving 🙂 !

  2221. I must admit to a similar feeling when I first tasted raw wines. In fact, it deterred me from tasting others until recently – and perhaps it was you who re-intersted me!Thanks for another great article!

  2222. I love rosé, especially pale, dry and complex rosé from Provence. This book sounds like the perfect holiday book to give and receive.

    • Hi Heidi,
      I just got word from Elizabeth that her book is now due out on January 12th. In the meantime, I am sure you are trying all sorts of good rosés, you lucky woman!

  2223. I love the mailman story. Similarly, we wonder what our recycling man thinks of us! Gabay’s book does drive home many things about rosé that are important. Thanks for the review – I will look forward to getting the book!

  2224. Aged rosés are an interesting subject. I bought a 2014 Garrus from Chateau
    D’Esclans when I was there with your group in 2015. I stored it in my frig, at your suggestion, and opened it this summer. It was terrific!
    The book sounds very interesting and a good addition to my collection.

  2225. I’m a foodie by the name of Eggnog and liked your raging verbiage. Bold, behind uncompassed directional arrows for all sensory unmisgivings. Tongue ? quivering as I’ve poured a glass and I am standing stove side waiting for my timer to go off, as I prepared your suggested entree pairing.
    The table is set all in crystal with a retro hinge from Doris Dukes era, with real English sterling cutlery, that gives the first bites a metallurgical on the frontal palate.
    I’m giving this 10 winks on my celestial gastrointestinal medal of the highest of possibilities!
    Thank and Godspeed for your article of the best is yet to come to you and yours during this Xmas season.

    • Eggnog. Wow, how can you not love someone whose blog name is Eggnog? And how many comments mention a Doris a Duke? Thanks so much for the comment that is definitely the best I’ve gotten this year – one to remember! All the best to you and yours, too, for the finest in holiday dining and imbibing!

    • 10 winks from me as well, for David’s original writing and delicious photos, and for this amuse-bouche review by Eggnog. Well done!

  2226. Lovely dishes and a tremendous blog.Mojito is a traditional Cuban highball. Everyone has heard about of this drink, and it is available at almost any bar in the world. It is not that simple to make a perfect Mojito. You need six mint leaves, twenty ml of fresh lime juice, twenty ml of simple syrup, forty-five ml of white rum and forty-five ml of club soda. The mint leaves should we provide Pubs and bars for clients.

  2227. I love rose, Travel in particularly, but I also have trouble buying into the any time of year thing except for using them as aperitifs. Merry Christmas!

    • I believe more and more wine drinkers are using rosé as an aperitif, irrespective of season of the year.

  2228. Cheers to all on the Provence Winezine staff! Thank you for providing us readers with many great stories in 2017 from our favorite place in the world…Provence! I raise my glass of rosé and toast to another fine year!

  2229. I’m so glad the Garrus was good! It is very interesting how the rosés change over time. (Of course, the majority will not age like Garrus, though!) I should add that I am relieved it was good, having spent all that time in the fridge–it can dry out the cork in a traditional fridge. You must have a good cellar in your big New England home–stash a few bottles there! Let’s taste a few more soon!

  2230. Susan/Towny,
    Thank you for the warm season’s greetings!
    And I wish you and yours: Joyeux Noël! / Bonne Année!
    -Henri

  2231. For a month in the Carib right now I would even drink Vitalis Hair Tonic (very alcoholic I’m told).

    • Given this frigid start to winter I am with you 100% on being in the Caribbean. But I draw the line at drinking Vitalis, though I once saw someone take a swig straight. Ouch!

  2232. Popping the Veuve Clicquot in Lourmarin—and toasting you! Bonne Année!

  2233. I SEE AN ALSACE “BRAND” FROM ZIND-HUMBRECHT : FAMOUS RIESLING !

    TENDRESSES,
    PIERRE

  2234. Pierre,
    Yes its a magnum vendange tardive from 1989, and still waiting to be opened.

  2235. Merry Christmas and happy new year, Susan and Towny! Your home is beautiful, a reflection of her inhabitants.

  2236. I don’t think my “cellar” will ever come close to yours, Jerry, but I do know I would never use a Château Lafite for Bœuf Bourgignon!

  2237. Well, the good news is that I can laugh about it now. Several years later I did read that cheap wine should never be used in cooking.

  2238. Really? The whole wheat ones AGAIN?!?! 🙂 Hey, as they say, “Chaqu’un à son goût!” Merry Christmas and Happy New Year – belated, of course, as I was on a minor Internet cleanse…

  2239. Love the window, Jerry – not only is it elegant and tasteful, it is tasty, too!

    • I was truly taken back by it. If we had more time I would have gone inside and congratulated all the staff.

  2240. Thank you for the lovely post. As I am currently living in Lourmarin and was drawn in by your photo of Cucuron. I have just added Domaine les Vadons to my list of must visits. If you have the time to list one or two more of your favorites in this region I would most certainly seek them out. I am in the need of more red dinner wine and particularly love oaked wines. A votre sante et bonheur!

  2241. Wow! What a great article & detailed natural wine review.

    • Thank you, James. It was a very interesting tasting. The only problem was not having enough time to taste more! If you are interested in minimal intervention wines, please take a gander at today’s post about Chateau Gasqui where winemaker Francois Miglio is making some exceptional biodynamic wines that I would refer to as natural wines, given no added sulfites (in most cases), only ambient yeast, and no heavy-handed interventions (as well as hand harvesting and organic vineyards, of course). Perhaps you already know the wines! Let me know your thoughts!

  2242. Thank you Heidi. Yes, we love the area, and come back every year for a visit. For my taste, the best best value red (and white as well) is Les Becs Fins, made by Tardieu Laurent (T-L) right there in Lourmarin. But there is no time in oak for these two. The caves in Lourmarin as you enter from the main parking lot usually has these two. They also sometimes carry some of the other appelations which T-L select from, which are aged in oak. I have seen Gigondas and Chateauneuf there from T-L. Enjoy!

  2243. Duck dishes resonate very well with us. Magret de canard and confit de canard presently top the list, but we must give your dish a try.

  2244. A good read Jerry! I like your idea not keeping record of your wines in the cellar. It is equally the same for women not keeping record of our rings, bracelets and necklaces. And the exploration begins at the time we go over it, and how we get excited by it, and recalled the long loss memories!

  2245. Lisa,
    Wow! What a great parallel to my habit of letting my memories transcend keeping cellar records. Thanks for bringing this out related to treasured wines. Just love it.
    Jerry

  2246. I died laughing when I read that your “wife at the time,” used your prize possession in her “Boeuf Bourguignon.” My wife just asked me if I would like Boeuf Bourguignon Saturday, and asked me to get a suitable wine for it. So, I am going to sneak over to you house, stand in front of your Ali Baba’s cave, and whisper “Sésame, ouvre-toi.” I will then sneak in and take the wine with the cheapest looking label. Since you don’t really have an inventory, I’m sure you won’t miss it. 🙂

    Now, I have a very late basement,(sadly with no wine in it – I keep drinking it), but I will be glad to let you store your wine in it. Its about 50′ x 100″ or something like that. I once stored a friend’s Harley in my basement in my house in Gaithersburg, so I think a few bottles of dusty old wine will be safe. Then again, I may sneak down from time-to-time, and sample a bottle or three, or maybe make a nice Boeuf Bourguignon. Salute!

    • If you did manage to get into the cave you would have the advantage, as Ch. Lafite’s label hasn’t changed. Then again you might chose an Australian red wine that happens to be standing directly behind a prone bottle of Ch. Lafite that displays a simple text only label. Its named Old Borer and I found it on a trip down under in the early ’80s. I could not resist buying a bottle after reading:

      AN UNUSUAL “Rough-as-Guts” wine that has the Distinctive Bouquet of old and ill-cared-for animals. It is best drunk with the teeth clenched to prevent the ingestion of seeds and skins. Connoisseurs will savor the slight Tannin Taste of burnt shag feathers and soiled medical dressings. Possessors of a cultivated palate admire the initial assault on the taste buds which comes from the careful and loving blending of circus cage floor hosings with smelly work socks. The maturing in Midland Abattoir hogsheads gives it a very Definite Nose. In the United States this wine is marketed as Saviour Brand (9 out of 10 people who drink it for the first time exclaim, “Je-e-esus Chri-i-st”)

  2247. Late Basement =large basement.

  2248. Interesting message. Your descriptions of making wine and
    storage showed that you know what you are doing which will result in excellent wine. Well done….
    Cheers!
    Patti Jenkins

  2249. Patti,
    Thanks for your comment. As it is I am just up from the cellar a few minutes ago. Was searching for a magnum of red to serve with company for dinner tonight. Great fun for me to look around and figure what will work well with the food menu.

  2250. As your sister, I know the only wine cellar you knew as a teenager was the shelf in the kitchen pantry on which stood a single bottle of Blackberry Mogen David wine. How do you explain a life/long pursuit of the grape?

  2251. OMG, you mean we really had a place for wine at the farm. Maybe its still there. I suspect had I ever tried it I would have been much slower leaping into the wonderful world of wine years later.

  2252. Jerry. My little wine cellar had humble beginnings such as yours. A wooden rack holding 9 or 12 bottles, mainly cheap bottles in our basement. Back in the late 50s and early 60s wine, other than during the holidays, was not an important element socially. There were more gallon jugs of table wine or homemade “Dago Red” available.

    My interest beyond the previously mentioned wines was provided by Elena’s cousin, newly returned from a stint in the U.S. Army posted in Germany. He, unlike some servicemen, took advantage of the opportunities to travel to France, Italy and Spain where he met his wife to be. With his language skills he enjoyed a cuisine which paired wine with every type of meal in whatever country he was in at the time. He taught Elena and me that wine can be just as fine a drink as a cocktail or beer. Since his wife was Spanish he leaned heavily towards the Spanish reds and I, too, started to buy them as well.

    The second person who broadened my education was a colleague who originally came from Northern California where they were just beginning to produce more “sophisticated” wine, not jug table wines, but Cabs and Chardonnay, for example. We made a trip to Napa and thus began my attraction to California wines. Speaking of Napa, at that time the open door policy was in effect at almost all the wineries offering free tastings, and I don’t mean the thimble samples, but glasses of the available wines. The wineries knew they had to get the word out that California wines could compete with the Europeans.

    The next big step in cellaring was when I began travelling extensive in Europe, mainly Germany, France and Italy and became very aware of the different varieties not only from country to country, but region to region. Thus, more bottles were selected based on where our travels took us, but more importantly, how they matched up with our meals.

    Today, we’re more inclined to drink Italian wines from the Piemonte region centered around Asti because for quite a few years we have traveled there during harvest season because our friends Guido and Sofia Corbella have a vineyard, They produce several varieties including Barbera, Barbaresco, and Dolcetto. The vineyard is located near the Langhe and Barolo regions so the opportunity exists to try various wines from a relatively small area.

    The beauty of wine is its ability to provide different scents, satisfying taste and the curiosity to continue looking for another bottle or two.

  2253. Regis,
    Thanks for sharing your experience in developing your interest in wine. There are so many parallels to my travels down the wine trail. Some of those “jug wines” out of California in the ’60’s were not at all unpleasant.Today we are seeing more and more boxed wines, which the Aussies began embracing many years ago, and the French are taking to as well (I love their name for them – Cubi).
    It seems Elena’s cousin provided great inspiration to you both. In my case it was a wine merchant I came to know a few years into my exploration who broadened my tasting experience. He was the wisest wine retailer I ever encountered, and I had the good fortune to meet him early on.
    Again, thank you for for this posting.
    Jerry

  2254. FAMOUS REPORTAGE ! KISS, PIERROT

    • Ah Pierre, Thanks for your sweet note! Do you know her wines of recent years? I will be in Provence soon and we will have to enjoy a Chateau Barbebelle bottle together! (Tea for Murielle!)

  2255. Susan, thanks for sharing this! I had the opportunity to meet Madeline during your Sept. tour in France and also at the wine tasting fete in Rogne in June. Her wines are wonderful and will brighten these dreary winter months!

    • Hi Mary,
      Good point about her wines brightening up these days! I hope you can come up to Portsmouth to see her again (and to see me, too!).

  2256. Wonderful to read about a wine maker that shares similar sensitive regard for the natural world in his wine-making and approach to life.

    Thanks for the article.

    • Francois, like his wines, is very genuine. Like his wines, there is “no make-up” and it was my pleasure to get to know him as well as his wines. I hope you can find some of his wines to try. Thank you for your nice note!

  2257. Sounds like a great paring! Thanks for the article.

    Did you taste much salinity in the wine? I had always heard that Bourboulenc is somewhat saline but it is only used in blends so it is hard to know.

    Then this spring I met a vigneron doing a 100% Bourboulenc. It was like drinking a glass of very salty water! So I wonder if that came through in the wine you tasted.

  2258. I loved Miglio’s line, “This is what Provence rosé tastes like.” I look forward to trying it quite soon as I have the amazing good fortune to be living in Provence for the winter. Thank you for your insightful post.

  2259. Great article, Susan! I am eager to try Gasqui’s wines. I have had mostly disappointing experiences with natural wines and often find myself rationalizing the experience. It seems as if Gasqui is doing it the right way…let great wine become great on its own with the least amount of intervention along the way. Get it right in the vineyard and positive results will come. I wish the wines were more available here as I would likely go buy a bottle today!

    • Hi Peter,
      There is a chink of hope that they may be available here soon! Thanks for your comment!

  2260. Loved all his books and he autographed all of them for me over the years. My mist cherished readings.

  2261. Thank you for the very touching tribute to Peter Mayle. I am one of those “A Year in Provence” readers that lived vicariously through Peter Mayle’s writing for many years. I understand that some of residents of Menerbes were none too pleased with the thinly veiled portrayal of them in his first book! I will miss his writing…he was the best Ambassador that Provence ever had!

  2262. Thank you for this enjoayable article about a true travel influencer, before the age of digital and social and media. We may not catch a glimpse of him in future wandering, however when there his presence will be remembered.

  2263. I had heard that when they escaped the interlopers in Menerbes Tuscany became their home. Whether there or the US, it did not take and this time the other side of the mountain, in Lourmarin, welcomed them back. The locals surely aided in keeping his life there private from visitors, much as the residents of Collioure apparently did for Patrick O’Brien, hugely successful British author of the Aubrey-Maturin seafaring stories. I tell all who ask me what its like in the Luberon to watch A Good Year, and recently I picked up a second hand copy to read.

  2264. Excellent article, Susan. I have heard much about the excellent reds coming from Domaine Richeaume but have never tried their wines. Interesting to read about the positive influence that working at Ridge has had on Sylvain. I am a fan of Ridge’s Cabs. I have now added yet another stop on my next trip to Provence–at this rate I will need to move there to keep up with your blog!

    • Well, that’s not such a bad idea, is it? I would love to spend another extended stay in this part of Provence! Thanks for your kind words!

  2265. Susan, we must visit and try/re-try these wines together. I can’t wait for your visit to Provence and to become familiar with this Domaine!

  2266. Given this review it seems I should now place them as a contender to join in a rather small list I currently have of top shelf Provence reds. Cannot wait to try Richeaume when we are next back there.

    • Jerry, this would be the perfect compliment to one of your amazing meals. I would love to see what you would serve with it. My husband had already started a Rissoto al Bardolino with raddicchio before I opened this second to last bottle I brought with us to Switzerland. I would love to let him use the wine in the rissoto but we must drink every drop. Susan, we must return!

      • That’s a deal, Heidi! I have a few more places to introduce you to, too! I am so glad you liked his wines–they are wonderful!

    • Jerry, I am confident you will really like his wines!

  2267. Hello Susan,

    Thank you for this serious article.

    Thank you

    Sylvain

    • Jerry, this would be the perfect compliment to one of your amazing meals. I would love to see what you would serve with it. My husband had already started a Rissoto al Bardolino with raddicchio before I opened this second to last bottle I brought with us to Switzerland. I would love to let him use the wine in the rissoto but we must drink every drop. Susan, we must return!

      • Heidi,
        I am so late in responding because when you mentioned my amazing meals I turned to my right and left instinctively thinking she can’t be writing this of me. David takes all the kudos on this blog in that regard. Sadly, I do not cook a whit. But I am married to a fantastic chef, and keep the cellar stocked in wine.

    • Sylvain, Heartfelt thanks for the lovely visit to Domaine Richeaume. I have been savoring each bottle I brought from our visit and now after a perfect day of skiing, I have opened the very last red, one I was saving. I said to my husband, “If I someday start to fade, please buy cases of this wine and serve it with fine cheese and I will die happy. Your 2015 Columelle is perhaps my favorite of 2018. Well done.

    • Sylvain,
      It was a great pleasure to meet you and have the opportunity to talk with you to learn more about your approach to winemaking! Of course, getting to know your wines was also a great pleasure!
      I look forward to seeing you again soon!

  2268. I know the wines are heavenly and the soup looks delicious. I will try your recipe. Thanks.

  2269. Super article on Provence wine and BD winemaking and farming!

  2270. Keith – sorry for the tardy reply! I have to say that I didn’t notice the salinity in the wine, but it was such a small percentage. However, your comment helped me to understand the wine I am pairing and reviewing for March! It is 30% Buorboulenc and did add some saltiness but it came across more as minerality than salinity.

  2271. This recipe looks delicious and I am sure it will pair well with any Provence rosé. I will try this on the next snowy day to transport me back to warmer Provence!

  2272. My wine cellar experience is oddly similar to yours but to me having the cellar is like having a living history of my life. Each bottle a remembrance of a point of time in my life and I savor the memories along with the wine.

  2273. Oh yes, as if they are fellow travelers to moments and places that still have such meaning.

  2274. Susan,
    So much in your excellent report to digest. I knew that the natural wine movement is only slowly moving here, compared to Europe, but even China has passed us by in organic vine acreage! Then again, some American pundits are not helping to move interest along. Published the same day, yesterday, as your story here is what Madeline Pockette of Wine Folly had to say about natural wine:
    “Think of it as wine unplugged. Natural wines are known for their funkier, gamier, yeastier characteristics and cloudy appearance. They are often much less fruity and much more yeasty in their aroma profile than a typical wine, smelling almost like yoghurt or German Hefeweizen. Of course, some natural wines are quite clean and fruity indeed. But if you taste a few, you’ll discover most lean towards the sour, yeasty end of the spectrum.”
    Happily this is not my experience to date.

    • Several years ago I might have agreed with Madeline but since then, I have tasted some exceptionally good natural wines that are, in contrast, full of fruit. Several winemakers have told me that they do not want their “natural” wines called natural because this (false) image is so widely perpetuated. Instead, they simply say they are organic and, in some cases biodynamic, use minimal intervention in the cellar, including natural yeast and minimal sulfur and voila! It is a segment of the wine market in which you need to be a savvy shopper.
      Hope to taste some good wine with you soon!

      • Susan,
        If I had to chose between natural, raw and organic for naming this growing development then organic it would be.

  2275. Excellent columelle blanc!

  2276. I know these wines well–I have a few in waiting right now–but don’t know your soup. it looks like a great combo!

  2277. Chateau Manissy that you mentioned is my current go to Travel. I use to try anything once, especially French and Italian. But, it has become to many wines to try, to many average wines at best and some real disappointments. I, like Jerry, have a 1,000 bottle wine cellar, and as a result only buy exceptional wines at bargain prices. My wife keeps telling me to stop buying, but I am addicted to a real bargain.
    Now if you are attending an ‘expo’, that is different, you taste everything and spit!?

    • Woody,
      Like yourself, I am too easy a target for good wine values. And as with you my wife can be challenging, especially at moments when the delivery man is dropping my latest online purchase off. I have a pat response to her when she is staring me down, which works very well. It goes “Dear, have you ever seen me drinking a bottle of wine alone?”

    • Woody, Yep, spitting is the only way one can survive at one of these expos. Believe me, most of it I do not want to spit out, though!I gues with such a large wine cellar, you are bound to have a few duds! What have been some of your favorites? I’s love to hear!

  2278. There are also plans for wine events across Paris at stores and restaurants (for the whole week), masterclasses and conferences

  2279. I really don’t know how you can even keep all this information straight! It is so impressive, Susan. I see lots of familiar wines in their new vintages. Very exciting! Not ever being lucky enough to have the Château Manissy Tavel like Woody, I was going to comment that I love the bottle!

    • Lots of notes! I don’t know how you keep track of all that culinary information! We make a good team!

  2280. David, this is a new wine for me. I look forward to trying it. When you were describing the fruit and flower component, I was wondering about the minerality. And you were right there with me!

    • This wine was such a nice surprise for me, Jean. We bought a couple more bottles after the tasting – great to serve in place of a Chardonnay, with so much more body that the usually other whites we find readily in the US.

  2281. Glad to see the professional recommendation to serve the wine “very cold” which I have been repeating to friends and colleagues for quite some time. The wine will warm in the glass and air temperature and the bouquet will steadily emerge in the tasting!

  2282. 1 bottle for 7 hours ? I’m seriously impressed ! A bottle doesn’t have a hope of not being guzzled rather quickly in our house. Especially if it’s delicious ! I’ll keep my ete out for this wine.

    • Haha – we’ll, Ashley, that is the way it normally is in our house, too! But I really wanted to taste the wines with all the different apps, so I had to behave.

  2283. Thank you for another delicious post! You must have truly savored the wine to be able to taste it through all of those courses.

  2284. I was honored to visit Chateau Gasqui, François Migio, and to taste wines harvested and not yet bottled. What an amazing treat I found with his 2017 Rose! I have a 2011 Corp & Ame tucked away for a special occaision—our last feast in Lourmarin.

    • Hi Heidi, What a great companion you were on this long but very fun day of tasting! I thoroughly enjoyed François’ 2017 rosé, too.

  2285. I just opened the 2015 Columelle and told my husband, ‘as the years pass if I start to fade please just buy cases of this wine, and fine cheeses, and I will die happy.’ In the meantime, this may be my best bottle of 2018. Merci Beaucoup Sylvain.

  2286. Susan – this is such a wonderfully informative post, as always. I haven’t tasted many 2017s yet so I was drinking this up 🙂

    There will always be room for more white wine from Provence on my table – I am pleased to hear that you found prevalence during your visit.

    I really enjoy Coteaux des Travers and met Robert Charavin at his domaine in 2016. They have a lineup of VDN including some of the rarer versions such as Ambré – Hors d’Age.

    John Bojanowski of Domaine Le Clos de Gravillas is a fantastic producer too – Minervois wines were one of my personal highlights of 2017. Very fun to see your coverage.

    • I wish I had had a little more time or, better yet, a little more time to travel around to visit more wineries. What have been your favorites thus far? We look forward to your article on Sparkling wines in Provence!

  2287. Very interesting post Susan. It’s a bit ironic for me to be reading this while in Verbier, Switzerland, given Marcus Niggli’s background. I’ve just had an exhausting and amazing day on the slopes, was settling in with French wine and cheese from Switzerland, and your headline caught my eye. Two years ago I had never heard of Lodi, yet after an amazing tasting I’ve since bought a few cases. Thanks for great info and best of luck to Marcus!

  2288. Hi Heidi, We will have to share some Markus wines when you return! I think you are referring to the Lodi Native Zins we tasted–they were terrific, weren’t they? Safe travels!

  2289. Susan, what an interesting article about German style wines coming from Lodi, CA…I had no idea! I applaud Markus for having the confidence to make the wines he wants to make! Also, what do you mean by “Off the via Domitia”? I think I know…but thought I had better ask.

    • Hi Peter, I hope you get to try some of Markus’s wines. And, I would love to hear what you think! Regarding “Off the via Domitia,” it is a new section of PWZ and refers to articles that are off the beaten path or not directly related to Provence and Southern Rhone wines and winemakers. They are typically related in some way though. Niggli’s decision to make his small production wines was made possible by his business in bulk wine and grapes, similar to some of the strategies used in Provence that enable dabbling in wines the estate owner or winemaker are really interested in. Other wineries I’ve written about are in California but are “Rhone Rangers,” referring to wineries that are influenced by Rhone-style wines, often using clones directly from the Rhone.
      Thanks for your note!

  2290. Great article, Susan. You write well about a wonderful topic: good wine! Thanks for your insights, especially about places so close to us. It inspires us to visit the wineries.

    • Kirsten and Bruce,
      You two should get right on 99 and go north a couple of hours! Let me know if you do and I will give you some other recommendations! Thanks for your note!

  2291. Patti Thornton March 20, 2018 at 2:08 am

    That was a great article that brought back memories of that lovely day. Though it is sad to hear that the tasting room is closed for now. The excitement over the debut of the new vintage had set the room a buzz with anticipation. I’ll not forget the convivial company of wine enthusiasts we enjoyed there that afternoon. At one point I did take a walk and found myself soaking in the beauty of the vines, the soil and the grand sky. Beauty is all around us even much closer to home than we ever thought! Thank you Markus!

    • Hi Patti,
      It was a lovely day, wasn’t it? A gorgeous drive from Napa to Lodi, where we were captured by its beauty (and wines). Thanks for snapping some photos while I talked with Markus. Shall we return to pick up some reds?

  2292. First, I love Niggli’s labels! They are so creative and fun! Now, on to the important stuff… I would love to try his wines and think that it is wonderful that he and other winemakers are taking the chance and making European-style wines in the U.S. Having tasted a few that fit into this category, I have to say that they are almost a category unto themselves, as the terroir and climate make a big difference in what is produced here vs. in Europe. And I like it!

    • Hi David, I agree with you about the labels…and each one tells a story about something personal in Markus’s life. I wrote about the Markus Joey Insieme label. Another handsome label to decipher is the one wrapped around Nativo. It is green with the assortment of letters and numbers that includes the postal code for Markus’s hometown of Weesen Switzerland (i.e., 8872) and the first initials for Markus and his brothers Konrad and Bernhard. I am still looking for the everything, I confess, but what fun! The designer is Sheng Moua.

  2293. Just a hook on to what David said. I too love wine labels, as they can be real works of art (aside from what Mouton Rothschild does annually). Michel Dovaz, the Swiss label designer is a genius.
    Mr. Niggli and friends are to be applauded. For too many years Americans consumers were in a rut related to varieties available here. Kerner is not all that easy too find anymore coming out of Germany, and Caesar – fuhgeddaboutit.

    • I think those labels must have spawned quite a fan club! The Caesar (aka César) sounds like an interesting one to know more about!

      • The César, ah, tripped up by my enthusiasm over the obscure grapes Markus is working with, specifically the Bacchus. Two years ago on a tasting trip in France with Jacques Navarre we came across both, the white Bacchus and red César. Each were wholly unknown to me, and while I was thinking Bacchus after reading your great piece on Markus my fingers were typing out César. What would Freud have to say about this? Dear me.

        • Ha- too many grapes in your head or too much revelry! In any case, I am glad to know a little more about César!

  2294. Susan,
    A wine maker par excellence, Markus Niggli! A fascinating story.
    And yes, so far this weekend/week (early yet), am enjoying a very fine white wine:

    Lindeman’s Pinot Grigio 2016, Australia: Outstanding!
    ‘Appy first day of spring to you and yours!

    -Henry

    • Hi Henry,
      It’s always good to see your name pop up! So glad you found an outstanding bottle for the week. And happy spring to you, too, even though it doesn’t look real springy!

  2295. I love pairings like this! Anything that involves a Cotes du Rhone and chopsticks makes me stop and take a look!

  2296. No octopus in the desert? A week ago I would not have any sympathy for you, as I have always found it too rubbery for my taste. Then last Wednesday at lunch at my go-to Italian restaurant in SoHo I decided to accept the waiter’s recommendation of grilled octopus. Tender, tasty, and tantalizing. So now I do wish you could find it locally.

  2297. Oh, Jerry – when octopus is prepared correctly, it is exquisite! (Well, now you actually know that!) I dream of making it as exquisitely as our local restaurant, and yours! Either way, I think it would be perfect with this wine.

  2298. Pamela O'Neill April 11, 2018 at 8:30 am

    Uruguay, really? Good to know. Will surely be raising a glass of pink at 7pm on International Rosé Day. But will that be any different than any other day in Provence?

  2299. Pamela O'Neill April 11, 2018 at 8:37 am

    Oh. I love Fleur, as you said, just on it’s own but am dying to try it with your fab recipe. Merci merci.

  2300. Susan, you had me drooling! Such evocative descriptions. Must try these wines. Thank you for the heads-up.

  2301. Hah, you ol’ curmudgeon. Thanks for posting that. Would love to have strolled with you throught the streets of NY. Homesick.

  2302. Pam,
    I spent 24 hours in Manhattan mid last week and as chance would have it walked past the same wine shop on my way to a movie theatre nearby them. They have replaced the balmy view of sun and sand with a Champagne display. I miss the other, as only yesterday snow descended on our CT home for an hour. As I write this its 45 degrees. Still, of late we are drinking mostly rosé to imagine a different Spring.

  2303. I thought there was already an official Rosé Day!? No worries…just another excuse to enjoy a glass of rosé!

    • There are two other days dedicated to rosé, you are right! I guess we will be obliged to drink rosé on at least two other occasions! LOL

  2304. I visited Chateau Barbebelle last fall. Madeleine was there and very gracious. The wine was excellent and some of the few I chose to bring back.

    • Hi Mary,
      Did you see you are pictured in the tasting room? I like this vintage even more!

  2305. GOOD JOB !
    PIERRE

  2306. Reading your article so refreshingly descriptive I found myself longing for Provence and the awakening of the senses one experiences when meeting the fragrance from herbs to sea, the feel of the sun’s warmth upon your skin while the gentlest breezes comfort, and the pleasure of of tasting exquisite food and wine. It may be 2018, however after reading this article, I’m ready for the 2019 tour! Perhaps a visir to Chateau Miraval even. Thank you for providing the perfect back drop for dreams tonight.

    • Rose is not a serious wine but just the job for barbecues …I live in the Vaucluse and can buy very drinkable bag in box Rose …5 litres for the price of 75cl of high end over hyped over priced stuff..but hey spend your dosh on what you wish …our capacity for self deception is seemingly infinite.

      • Susan Manfull May 1, 2018 at 5:07 pm

        Hi Gerry,
        Thanks for making the excellent point that there is something for everyone when it comes to wine!

    • Susan Manfull May 1, 2018 at 5:05 pm

      Hi Patti,
      Paraphrasing Eric Asimov (in one of his articles on rosé a few years back), A good rosé is transportive. Let’s open a bottle and pretend!

  2307. A very revealing interview with Perrin. I wait what comes out of the Pinot Noir planting with great interest. He seems to agree that much of wine sales today is “grab and go” decision making at the shelf, meaning it is not bought with cellaring in mind. Thus I get what he says about the vintage of a Rosé being immaterial. But they used to say that about year to year quality in Napa Valley back in the seventies, and clearly it did matter as much then as now.

    • Susan Manfull May 1, 2018 at 5:25 pm

      Hi Jerry,
      It was an interesting and informative meeting (and the food was excellent). I am certain that he would not say the vintage of rosé is immaterial; rather, when ordering and buying a rosé, one doesn’t have to think about the vintage because, heretofore, there has generally been no choice! In an earlier part of the conversation, we talked about the growing recognition of aged rosé and you may have noted that he said that the new Miraval rosé is crafted with aging in mind! Your point about the perception of Napa wines in the old days is really interesting.

      • Irrespective of Marc’s comment, there is little doubt that the quality level of Rosé has really stepped up in recent years. Just speaking for our household, this is the first winter we have maintained and served Rosé. And it seems quite normal now to do so.

  2308. Great article as usual!

  2309. Pamela O'Neill May 1, 2018 at 8:34 am

    Veeeery interesting. Must say that I’m surprised about the new winery at Miraval. Haven’t heard a squeak about it and I’m right next door!

  2310. Peter Mansell May 2, 2018 at 5:52 pm

    Susan, another interesting article and a bit surprising given that the store shelves seemed to overstocked with new low-end rosés! I have to believe that if the Perrins decide to make a high-end rose, it will be good! Lastly, is the name Muse inspired by the band Muse that recorded there. The band has a cult-like following so maybe the wine will too!

  2311. Peter Mansell May 2, 2018 at 6:07 pm

    Pamela, thank you for bringing to our attention another important day (and excuse) to drink wine. Did you know that this year on June 22nd it is also National Chocolate Eclair Day? Can you recommend a rosé to pair with my chocolate eclair? Also, did you know that June 23rd is National Pink Day? How appropriate! I think Valérie is trying to get us to drink rosé for two days in a row! Pourquoi pas?

    • Pamela O'Neill May 3, 2018 at 5:13 am

      You are quite welcome Peter. It won’t be me blamed for missing an important, um, day to drink wine. However, I can be blamed for missing the extent to which Roséday falls in such illustrious company, as though the Fête de la Musique and the summer solstice were not enough! And I might, though doubtful, have forgotten to drink rosé on the 23rd of June had you not informed me that it was Pink Day. I am in your debt. Pourquoi pas salute Valérie for her efforts on our behalf by pairing your éclair with a lovely 2017 La Vie en Rose from Château Roubine? We at PWZ will be waiting to hear how you celebrated these très festive occasions!

  2312. Peter Mansell May 2, 2018 at 6:10 pm

    What an informative article! I found myself writing down all the interesting wines onto my wish list. Unfortunately, very few can be found over here. I will look for them on my next trip to Provence. Thank you for sharing (and you must have the one of the best jobs in the world!)

  2313. Susan Manfull May 3, 2018 at 1:54 pm

    Hi Peter,
    Good to see you pop back by! That is a really interesting observation about Muse, the band, and the name of the new rosé. He did not mention that–and I did not think of ask! Regarding that new high-end wine, Perrin seemed very excited and, like you, I suspect it will be very good!

  2314. Pamela,
    I love the way you write, and have been inspired to run to Whole Foods to stock up on your recommendations. Can you also recommend a great sparkling rose? I prefer something quite dry.

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 7:43 am

      Hi Barbara. Great idea. Let me know what you think. I’m rather partial to Château Léoube’s Sparkling de Léoube. Mirabeau en Provence (the canette people) have just introduced an new sparkling rosé, La Folie, made using the charmat method, like Prosecco. Very light, dry, and fresh. Unfortunately, it won’t be in the US till next year but watch out for it.

  2315. Joseph McClain May 3, 2018 at 8:03 pm

    Loved Pamela´s article! So longing for a good rosê!!! Had a long discussion with the guys in the big San Miguel de Allende wine shop that services all of Mexico about Rosés just today! They showed me one that was sort of electric orange. I said no. And envied you all in the photos with that very special color of a good Provençal Rosè. Brava Pamela. Keep up the good reporting.

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 7:46 am

      Oh no, Joseph. Now I feel cruel for teasing you! Online perhaps? I will remember to drink a glass for you on Roséday.

  2316. Joseph McClain May 3, 2018 at 8:05 pm

    I am amazed and loved this article. Wish we had the possibility of this product in Mexico. Thanks Pamela for your great reportage.

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 8:04 am

      Thanks Joseph. You’ll just have to return to Cotignac to sample those little canettes in their tasting room.

  2317. Great article…..but then again, you always write interesting articles. I enjoy your photos, too! Can’t wait to sample some suggestion Thanks, Pam!

  2318. I’ll be sure to get to Wholefoods,soon! Thanks for the information. You paint quite a “visual.”

  2319. That was very interesting! Wine in cans would make life easy in many ways.I really liked your article, thanks Pamela

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 8:09 am

      Yes, the possibilities are endless. I’m thinking a cooler full for your next deck party!

  2320. Patricia Newman May 4, 2018 at 1:59 am

    Great article Pamela. I shall rush out to stock up on copious quantities of rosé now so I don’t miss the boat!!

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 7:54 am

      Good idea. You’ll want to avoid the rosé stampede as the big day approaches!

  2321. So exciting! What wine snobs need to realise is that this wasn’t designed for the table, and there’s still the perfect place for bottles on tables. These little babies are perfect for events and festivals … and we’ve found a new camping buddy. LOVE!!! Can’t wait until they’re available in Europe.

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 8:11 am

      I can’t wait either. Perfect for camping. May I be your camp buddy too?

  2322. An elegant, delicious rosé deserves to have its own International day! Vive la rosé and thanks for the heads-up Pam xx

  2323. Beautifully written and makes me, a red wine lover, want to give rosė a serious try. Pamela’s capacity to make something as potentially boring as a wine-event interesting, shows her mastery of the english language and flair for finding the right phrase to express her thoughts. Only wish that I could see her eyes in the photo.

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 7:59 am

      Brynn, a potential convert! Never thought I’d see the day. Excellent news. I was winking behind those shades.

  2324. Brynn Settels May 4, 2018 at 4:03 am

    As always with Pamela’s articles… informative, well written, with that slight undercurrent of humor which make her articles so amusing to read. Keep it up, Pam!

  2325. Brilliant idea and so useful for so many situations….

  2326. André Renaudo May 4, 2018 at 10:24 am

    Great article Pamela. You do write so well. Thank you for all the info. We must stock up in rosé for the summer. Perhaps you can advise us. Keep up reporting Pamela and thank you again.

    • Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 8:01 am

      Thank you André. I’d be happy to make some suggestions and to pop over when you’ve stocked up!

  2327. Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 8:15 am

    I knew you’d be a fan, Annie. Great beach companion, eh?

  2328. Pamela O'Neill May 5, 2018 at 3:42 pm

    Thanks David. I don’t know this rosé at all but will look for it. And, oh, your curry. Looks devine!

  2329. David,
    I love to take a good rose to our favorite Thai restaurants. Rose has an affinity for Asian food, but I like you never put Indian food and rose together, but now I know thanks to you.
    Guigal is one of the top producers in the northern Rhône, but ventures to the southern Rhône as well. His single vineyard Cote Rote’s are famous and very expensive.

    • Woody – I will definitely have to try Rosé next time I make Thai food. Thanks for that tip.

      Sadly, we get few Provence or Côtes du Rhône wines here in Tucson! I felt really lucky to find this one. That said, I will ask the store owner his single vineyard wines – perhaps they can be ordered.

  2330. Susan,
    I agree wholeheartedly that Beaucastel’s white CDP is amazing. While visiting Beaucastel many years ago, they had just discovered some 12 year old CDP Blanc VV hidden behind same cases of red in their cellar. Luck for me, some insiders were visiting at the same time, so they opened a bottle for us to taste. Hands down, the best CDP white I have ever tasted.

  2331. Kevin Walshe May 8, 2018 at 2:10 am

    Great news. Great idea. Thanks Pam!

  2332. Kevin Walshe May 8, 2018 at 2:19 am

    Great article. A glimpse into the future.

  2333. Pamela O'Neill May 8, 2018 at 8:01 am

    Wow, such praise. I’m dying to taste them!

  2334. Wine and Indian food? Well, given your recipe that limits the heat I might try it again. But I still carry wounds from a bottle of premier cru Pommard I took to a restaurant in Hampstead Heath many years ago. It was my first Indian food experience and my friend I was visiting said we could bring our own wine to this place in his neighborhood (hmm, did they called those spots not serving alcohol Off License?) I knew he loved good Burgundy and wanted to please him. Well, I might have bought a plonk for 3 Pounds Sterling for as much enjoyment I got from that bottle. Ever since its been beer only at Indian spots (I like spicy).

  2335. Well, I for one will be sailling in to Pellegrin. Hope you can join us on board Pam.

  2336. Randonné Rosé! I love it. From now on thats all I am packing on the trail – alcohol wise.

  2337. Salut Pam, As always a well thought-out article. Historical and contemporary wine-making in your interesting piece. Inspired me to stop by Chateau Fontainbleau – somewhere between Montfort and Brignoles – for a bottle of their rose – highly recommended by this hitherto red wine drinker. Keep on writing and keep us thinking about good things Pam!
    Jeremy

  2338. Great article Pam.
    But I do love a bottle with a real cork…..
    J xx

    • Pamela O'Neill May 17, 2018 at 2:52 pm

      I know you. You’ll get over it when you don’t have to hike a corkscrew up Kilimanjaro!

  2339. Great story. If we are fortunate enough to make it back to that lovely area in France, we will find a way to make it to Pey Blanc.

    Great success to the vintner!

    • Susan Manfull May 14, 2018 at 12:31 pm

      Hi Linda, Do drop by! There are many small vintners in that general vicinity who are making very nice wines that are great values. Such a beautiful and fun area. Thanks for your note!

  2340. Peter Mansell May 14, 2018 at 8:08 am

    Hi Susan, I believe that I have tried Pey Blanc in restaurants around Aix. They seem to be good value wines worthy of a stop for stocking up the kitchen on next visit to Aix. Thanks for covering some of the smaller producers that are often some the best values to be had in Provence!

    • Susan Manfull May 14, 2018 at 12:33 pm

      Excellent point, Peter, about some of the best values being found in the small wineries. And what fun, too, as you often have the opportunity to meet the winemaker, too!

  2341. Pamela O'Neill May 17, 2018 at 3:00 pm

    Ah, good choice. I am a fan of Fontainebleau’s wines! Stock up for Roséday.

  2342. A good read & have now passed it on to several of my pals…..continue the good work Pamela ???

  2343. Very interested to see your comments on their Cab/Syrah blend. I am always fascinated to see that, as it brings to mind what Eloi Durrbach did with that AOP unauthorized combo way back when (and still does). Are they still blending those two grapes?

    • Susan Manfull June 27, 2018 at 2:50 pm

      Hi Jerry,
      The Cab/Syrah blend, as you read goes back 14 years–it was such a treat to be able to try that! As far as I know (and I double-checked my notes and the tech sheets I received), they are not. I do highly recommend a stop there when you are next in the area!

  2344. Had I not read your article first, I may have “snobbed out“ on this concept of wine in cans. But through your humor and insights, this idea took on a certain charm. Thanks for sharing, Pam. Good stuff!

  2345. Lovely post. I had one of my most amazing meals at Le P’tit Resto and Ghironi was so gracious and helpful. Each course was perfectly plated, utterly delicious, and paired perfectly with delicious wine. It was truly an evening to remember. I can hardly wait to return.
    On a separate note, the famous Walter Geiser you pictured above was invaluable when we rented our home for a winter in Lourmarin. Walter if you read this MERCI BEAUCOUP!!!

    • Susan Manfull June 27, 2018 at 2:36 pm

      Hi Heidi,
      I’m so glad you were able to go! It is a fun place with great service and delicious food and wine! Also, Walter did see the article and I’m sure read your sentiments.

  2346. SCHOTT PIERRE May 28, 2018 at 1:54 pm

    FAMOUS !

  2347. Having eaten there two years ago I would second all the comments about this wonderful dining spot. Your note about parking across from Saint Barthélemy touches a sympathetic cord, as when you enter the village from that side you pass a house on the right that we considered buying several years ago. Alas, we did not. But Vaugines still draws us back each year for a visit.

  2348. I came across this post while searching for some of the best wine blogs, and I saw you won an award two years ago, I can see why. What a great and vivid story. Sometimes Americans, I think, lose track of the importance of the history of wine, and the wine makers. Something I am learning a lot more living in Spain in the wine region where wine making first touched down from the Greeks, Romans, and Etruscans. But, it’s the family winemakers that have kept it alive. Thanks for sharing!

    • You are so right about all there is to learn from studying the history of wine. Ah, Spain, what a story it tells. I wish I knew it better. In the meantime I love the wines. Enjoy!

  2349. Peter Mansell June 1, 2018 at 8:24 am

    I had no idea that Lodi had such diversity of grape varieties! Interesting that they did not include a Zinfandel in the tasting flights but I guess the only match from elsewhere would be a Primitivo from Italy! I was surprised to read that the Mourvedre showed so well…pretty brave to put the Lodi wine up against a Bandol from Tempier! How available are these wines from Lodi?

    • Susan Manfull June 27, 2018 at 3:01 pm

      Availability depends on so many variables but I will say that many Lodi producers ship their wines around the country. if there is one (or two or three) that you are interested in, I suggest you write to the winery. (Please tell them you wrote about it here!)

  2350. Your recountings of this dinner are wonderful! What a wonderful event to which you were invited! Thank you for sharing it with all who appreciate and/or love wine, rose, the Lichine Dynasty, Chateau D’Esclans, and bien sur – les vins de rose de Sacha Lichine! Sante!

  2351. David Scott Allen, once again a mouth-watering piece. Do you have a restaurant? I can envision one with an adjacent wine store with your favorite picks and pairing suggestions.

    • Thank you so much, Heidi! You are so sweet! No, I don’t have a restaurant – I love cooking for family and friends! Although I like your idea of a combo bistro and wine store!

  2352. Jerry…
    Your wine comments & observations about the world around us are always wonderful. I do miss those old GAMIS days & the times we had…thx for all your wisdom as well as all your musings…what do you think of our daughter’s “20/20” dictum, that says we tend to drink red too warm & whites too cold so she tries to put the red in the fridge for 20 minutes before opening & to take the whites out of the fridge 20 minutes before opening? Best… Neil

  2353. Neil,
    Your daughter is to be commended. I had not come across the 20/20 term as such before, though have long believed in its creed. I guess the chilled white practice has much to do with our culture, ice cubes in everything we drink.
    Ah, GAMIS. That was a special time in our industry, to be certain. How lucky we were to be part of it.
    Ciao,
    Jerry

  2354. Marijke Savels June 20, 2018 at 11:57 am

    We’ve been going to Marco for 7 years now (each June) and we still love it. Each time again we enjoy the ambiance, the food, the Rosé! and every Friday our “aïoli maison”. We’ll be going back to Marco and his team as long as we can. A great post Susan.

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/b2f257efe93d1c18b1dab647eb8e319227a56a39c243bddf678c8f38cd5ffbde.jpg

  2355. Bucharest will celebrate too

    • Susan Manfull June 27, 2018 at 3:17 pm

      How was your celebration? Any photos you want to send me? I am about to post an article about rosé day. Thanks for dropping by!

  2356. Susan Manfull June 27, 2018 at 3:10 pm

    I’m planning to bring some to the motherland. They are exquisite.

  2357. Peter Mansell July 1, 2018 at 11:51 am

    Thank you, David, for another perfect pairing and for a 2nd endorsement for Pey Blanc wines. I have found that the inexpensive Provence and Rhône reds are terrific barbecue wines and excellent values. I read the article about Pey Blanc and have added to my list for a visit when back in Provence. Too bad these wines are hard to find outside of their local area.

    • Thanks for writing, Peter. Often – in both Italy and France – the small production wineries offer some wonderful tasting wines at ridiculously low prices.

  2358. Peter Mansell July 1, 2018 at 11:51 am

    I love Cassis white wines and Paternel is one of my favorites! There is nothing better than enjoying fresh seafood at the Port of Cassis with a bottle of Cassis wine in the ice bucket! I have not tried the Cassis reds but will add to my “wine bucket list”!

  2359. Peter Mansell July 1, 2018 at 11:54 am

    Rosé any day is reason for a celebration! Santé!

  2360. Bucharest too…

  2361. This takes me back to our visit to Les Calanques in 2008! I wish I could remember what wine we had with our incredibly seafood lunch on the beach… do you? I see very few Cassis wines here in Tucson – wish there was more variety available! I will keep my eyes open for Paternel!

  2362. To determine internal swelling is difficult enough, therefore, consequently, they influence the body for a long time, which threatens the normal fetus. Fluids are dangerous because they break blood circulation. Such picture leads to the strengthening of negative tendencies feeding and the breath baby, created hypoxia.
    Fighting such a pathology should be done with the help of correction feeding and special procedures so that water does not stay tissues. If the woman is resting, then under the feet better put a cushion or pillow to improve the blood circulation of tired legs. Do not long time to sit or stand, as this leads to stagnation in the body. It is recommended that the knee-elbow position several times a day in order to increase blood flow.
    swollen feet after giving birth

  2363. This is intriguing. The pairing suggestions helps

  2364. Looking forward to trying this wine

  2365. Thank you for this David. Malherbe is just down the road and I haven’t tasted it. I love rosés with a hit of saltiness. And I’m salivting over your recipw. Will be trying both toute suite.

  2366. Hi Takia,
    A great information you shared on this page with the experience of Oenophile wine at California ,But if you want a crystal wine glass descender on a retail price for a drinking of Atlas wine in jock wine bar at California ,then the best solution for you must go to the wholesale market of America and also check every piece of wine glass descender carefully because sometimes due to crystal it was break its price also negotiable so you must start bargaining with the buyer during the buying also check the date number and bottle sequence number mentioned at the bottom of every descender if this is not mentioned then you understand this descender is not original,so becarefull about it otherwise you will may be loose .
    Thanks .

  2367. Rose wine is seriously have a better impact than the other wine as rose is self-useful for the health and by adding the combination of rose and wines makes it more useful than that of the other wines as rapidly.

  2368. Just tasted your Fleur de Mer 2017 today at a church ladies function and I am in love. I can only hope I will be able to find it here in our little settlement of Shingle Springs. BRAVO!

  2369. Great article.Very complete report and synthesis. Thank you for sharing the comments.Extremly vsluable.From these, One may better understand the reasoning.
    Did you share these findings with your favourite Rose producers?

    • I would like to say that he has now shared these findings and as a Vintner of a our Shoshana Rosé of Pinot Noir, this article has been very interesting indeed! Thank you Gerry! Marla Bedrosian .

  2370. Thank you, Jacques. No, not at this point.

  2371. I put the vintage on the back of my rosé label, too (Solière). Interesting comments from wine connoisseurs who think rosé should be enjoyed young. The reality is, it depends on how it’s made. A good rosé can age well and evolve very nicely with age.

  2372. As the saying goes, perception is reality, thus for the myriad of people now regularly reaching for Rosé it should be young. In time perhaps some will come to value laying it down for more than a year. Wine merchants could change some of that impression by bringing in “library wines” from Rosé areas where a few growers will store over considerable time, say in Bandol.

  2373. Wow, you had an excellent response—and so many interesting comments from the respondents making a living in the wine industry.
    I tend to make a wine selection heavily based on label, reasoning the effort put into the label must be a reflection of the effort put into the winemaking. Works, sometimes. And is always enjoyable to look at the bottle on the table.

  2374. In many cases the label sells the wine. But in more and more instances some clever labels slide by giving you basic information on what is in the bottle.

  2375. It can all be so complicated to pick the right wine, so I have developed two very sophisticated methods to choose . The first is if someone gives me a wine, it’s good. The second is, “Jerry says….”. ?Good article. Thanks

  2376. Fascinating article, enjoyed seeing how these stats were supported with personal insights from the industry. Great read and fun to see you take a statistical approach to this subject— well done!

    • I too really enjoyed the incoming comments that came from some of the survey responders. They added some very interesting points to the discussion.

  2377. One of the buying criteria that is unique to rosé is color. Does a pale rosé have a better likelihood of being purchased than a darker rosé (i.e. Tavel)? Red and Whites are not impacted by their color on the shelf. As for vintage, it depends. I am sensitive to vintage on a well made rosé. I wonder if just having the vintage on the label gives a perception of quality vs. a no vintage label? Hmmmm…another survey?

    • My sense is that very pale, shades closer to white wine rather than those approaching red – such as Tavel, is likely going to be “the thing” for some time yet. Moving the vintage from the front to back label makes sense to me, but if it does not appear at all then I don’t think the producer can expect to get much of a price for their product (<$12 or so). Plus I would always wonder if juice from two or more harvests are being mixed together.

  2378. You are too kind.

  2379. ? this sounds incredibly delicious. It sounds very much like a meal a German friend makes for her Persian husband on special occasions with saffron rice and other seasonal dishes joining the Persian Spiced lamb shanks..
    IT’s Left to this fine imagination what a lovely accompaniment that wine would have been with the flavor enhancing almond, leather and fruit notes you describe. Coincidentally, I had just finished listening to Science Friday wherein they were discussing why PSL has held a 15 year long run as a holiday favorite. The scientists say it is due to the marriage of those very ancient spices cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg and they mentioned clove used in cuisines the world over that rarely fail to please and comfort the human palate making it perfect for celebrations.

    • Patti – I really wish I had heard that Science Friday. As always, that is a really interesting show. I highly recommend that you give these lamb shanks a go – the flavors are so luxurious!

  2380. I find it curious that Vinsobres has not been more successful in America. For that matter, when in France it would not be a wine I would see on any home dinner table compared to almost any other area surrounding it. Marketing or price/quality ratio issue for them? Hmmm.

    • That is a good question, Jerry. Perhaps that will change in the future? My guess is that production is just so small that it can’t make a big splash!

  2381. Serving good wine is important to me. I intentionally would not serve an inferior wine but try not to over pay for what we casually drink at home or serve people who are unfamiliar with wine. I have the wine spectator app. on my Iphone which helps me discover some very good wines at reasonable prices.
    I truly enjoy your articles.

  2382. Price/quality ratio has always rated high when I am planning to serve guests that are not that much into wine, but willing to give it a go. I enjoy setting up a blind tasting contrasting lesser and more expensive varietals, such as a $12 versus $20 Cab. It amazes me how often the lesser cost wines come out on top.

  2383. This article gave me a lot to think about as I hadn’t even realized my personal thought process when buying rosé until you pointed out the factors involved. This will definitely give me pause the next time I casually go to pick up a bottle from the shelves. Another thought provoking article from the Wine Maven!

  2384. The shelves of Rosé pictured at the opening of the story depicted 70 different brands. Imagine having to chose from that if you don’t have a favorite in mind.

  2385. An interesting piece of research which could be applied to other wine styles.
    Personally, I think that vintage variation is interesting and acceptable/desirable for wine geeks/professionals who represent <15% of the market.
    The understanding of the need for most rosé, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio to be as young as possible,
    might be shared by a larger number. Maybe 30%
    For most others it's irrelevant, and the wine industry should follow the lead of the beer and food industries in managing rotation (and possibly informing purchasers that this wine will be at its best, if properly looked after, before X date.
    Unfortunately, the innately arrogant wine industry will probably prefer its customers to go and get 'educated' about vintages rather than help them to get the experience they are looking for.

    Most wine buyers, like spirits and beer buyers and restaurant goers, want to repeat an enjoyable previous experience. Full stop.

  2386. I think young new wine consumers are facing a mine field when looking at all that is available to them today. But I don’t think they understand it, nor for the most part really care to. If that is true for the majority, then what you suggest about managing rotation has validity. Isn’t this Joe Wagner’s approach of late?
    Many thanks for your most interesting thoughts.

  2387. So beautiful Susan. With much love.

  2388. Hello Susan, Towney and all the Manfull network of friends. As I read this I feel a sense of great love as well as the satisfying feeling of being cared for. I think of you every day and am so refreshed to read your writing once again. Sending love and gratitude to you.

  2389. Hello Susan and Bill. Have been thinking of you both, and of course Alex, on & off over the past few months. I have something in common with you in that I lost my father on my 14th birthday (November 19 just a few days ago and, historically, back in 1972). That year Thanksgiving was a few days later. This is a bit of disjointed comparison yet as there is some overlap I simply want to let you both know that I am thinking of you. Thank you for your post and I send you my all. Tom

  2390. I married into a Jewish family, and one of the customs I most took to was that of setting a place for Elijah at the table, in case he took it into his head to visit. Your post reminded me of that. I cannot imagine the pain you have, and are still experiencing, but leaving a place at table is a wonderful way of keeping her memory with you. I never met her but the photo you published of her beautiful, intelligent, characterful face gave me an idea of how much you must miss her. Grief is the price we pay for love.

  2391. Susan—this is so heartbreakingly beautiful. Written with grace and love that knows no bounds. I wish you the best and will be thinking of you on Thanksgiving.

  2392. Stunningly beautiful, Susan. Mark and I read this while sitting around the table where we sat with you, Towny and Alex in July. Your words are so thoughtful, about the power of sharing food and wine around the table – we will, of course, toast Alex tomorrow, every thankful to have had her in our lives for as long as we did.

    A note of inappropriate levity: The only casserole that darkened your door was my mac ‘n cheese. There is some poetry in that, don’t you think? There had to be at least one casserole, n’est pas?

  2393. Oh, Susan! I am so very sorry to hear of the loss of your dear Alex. No one who had not lost a child can ever truly understand how completely wrong it is. My son died at 15 in 1985, on Halloween and I still cannot celebrate Halloween. Please accept my most sincere sympathy.

  2394. Dear Susan,
    It is fitting and touching to come home and find this lovely, lovely post in my mailbox. I have just come from La Boulangerie where I had coffee and scones with Patti. You, Towny, and Alex were the center of our two hour conversation. Your desire to both grieve and honor your daughter has brought out the very best in your writing ability. Thank you for your profound observations about the grounding effect of sharing wine and food with family and friends. It really doesn’t get any better, in good times and bad.
    Much love, Kirsten

  2395. Susan –
    I was so moved by your frank writing about the grief that embraces you and Towney these days. I am thinking loving thoughts of you and of Alex (who, of course, I never met) and am grateful for your sharing. Be strong and cherish your memories.

  2396. Susan, your writing so fully captures the love of food, wine and – most importantly – family. You will always be three; Alex left too large an impression on everyone’s lives to be left from the equation. Much love.

  2397. Very moving Susan. Thinking of you as I sit in my kitchen.

  2398. Very moving Susan. I am so sorry for your terrible loss. We will be thinking of you tomorrow and many other times as well.

  2399. Dear Susan, thank you for opening up your heart, and in so showing the true and undying love you have for your beautiful daughter Alex, it lets us see how you and Alex enjoyed each other’s company and shared in your interest of wine during the short time she had in this world, as a parent my self, cannot imagine what you both are going through, but thank you again for this caring beautifully written celebration of Alex’s life, my prayers are with you, god bless you both ?

  2400. My GOD Susie that was beautifully written. I am still thinking and praying for you, Towney and Alex.

    much love
    Robin

  2401. Thank you for reminding us what is important in life and how you have managed this tough time in your life. A beautifully written piece. Much love to you Susan.

  2402. An absolutely exquisite tribute to your daughter, Susan. You take my breath away with your ability to communicate your sadness through your passion for wine. What a meaningful way to share your story and to make the heartbreak bearable for you to communicate to many of us who cannot begin to understand your pain. Thank you for sharing.

  2403. Rosjke Hasseldine November 21, 2018 at 7:00 pm

    Beautifully written Susan. You Towny and Alex are in my thoughts every day. John and I will raise a glass to you and Towny and Alex with deep love. Hugs. Rosjke

  2404. Dear Susie, So much love and devotion is captured in this article that I can only imagine was so difficult for you to write. Tears are flooding my heart, thank you so much for sharing such beautiful memories of Alex. We will toast all 3 of you a la table tomorrow, Thanksgiving. Praying ? for all.

  2405. Dear Susan, I weep with you, laugh with you, hold you and Towny in my thoughts and do so admire your grace and ability to express yourself so beautifully through the written word. Thank you for sharing. Hugs, Audrey

  2406. Jennifer and I are without words. Sending love and prayers to you and Towny.

  2407. Christine Stadler November 21, 2018 at 10:16 pm

    Your writing continues to mesmerize my heart and soul. Susan, you and Towny are living with such profound grief. You write about so many joyful memories. Each story of Alex is filled with promise, warmth and intelligence. She was a gift to this world even as a little child. Her gifts only multiplied with age and experience. How crushing to weave the story of her final days into such sweet memories. My heart breaks for you both all over again. As I type these sad words, something inside of me tells me to remember Alex by imitating some of the qualities I loved in her. I am really restating a quote that I read just recently. The author of these profound words provided me with hope. Imitating Alex’s devotion to art, people and political justice honors her soul and personal energy. I can embrace my life with renewed zest knowing Alex’s essence is never far!

  2408. Yes, that table! Can you count all the times I sat at that table, while growing up with Alex? How many Animal Tribune meetings we had at that small table of yours? How many times Alex invited me over, for which I eagerly took, and we had cookies at that table? Personally, I lost count, I can remember a singular feeling all these points of memories lead to: happiness, a sense of thankfulness.

    I think about Alex everyday. I think about her before I think about what I should buy for dinner or what wine should go along with it. I think about her when I see cardboard boxes on sidewalks, how a young Alex (and myself included) would love to build fantastical worlds out of them with just tape and imagination. I think about her whenever I come across small details we shared, like our Pokemon affinity, our love for travel or culture, and eclectic taste of music. Or how she was there for Kathleen and I when our father passed away, not because its what friends do, but because of her sense of being that we all loved her for.

    I shall be toasting her tomorrow, as well as forever, because her spirit still lives on. Thank you for this read, Susan, you and Towny and Alex are in our thoughts.

  2409. Michsel snd Paula November 22, 2018 at 1:13 am

    Susan, while out of town, we are at that special table with you and Towny in spirit. Not just Thanksgiving, but daily as we continue to remember Alex and the times we shared together. Your words are very special. Lots of love to you both.

  2410. André & Monica Renaudo November 22, 2018 at 5:19 am

    This is heart wrenching and beautifully written. We did not know Alex and we have only met you once in Cotignac but your writing brought us deeply in the sadness of your family and your close friends. Monica and I join you in sympathy and grief for the souvenir of Alex.
    André & Monica

  2411. Dear Susan & Towny,
    You are constantly in my thoughts and prayers. I saw your article heading yesterday come across my phone, but waited until this morning to read it. It was so beautifully written, and could not have come easily. As tears rolled down my face, I’m feeling so grateful to have met you both and although only meeting Alex a few times, her beautiful face is embedded in my mind. I miss you both so very much and hope we can get together before Christmas. Thanksgiving blessings coming your way!
    Love,
    Patty & Eric

  2412. From the poet David Whyte:

    Those who will not slip beneath
    the still surface on the well of grief
    turning downward through its black water
    to the place we cannot breath
    will never know the source from which we drink,
    the secret water, cold and clear,
    nor find in the darkness glimmering
    the small round coins
    thrown by those who wished for something else.

    Kindest regards,
    L

  2413. This Thanksgiving we are grateful for the love and nourishment that you and your family have given ours through the years. It was not that long ago when you were pregnant trying out possible names; when Alex was a toddler handing out shower gifts to me and sitting next to me on the piano bench; when the two kids were playing games of eating donuts hanging on strings and blowing out candles, having pizza and talking about trips abroad; drinking wine and enjoying faux filet; the art, the stories, the joy, the creativity of her life will live inside of our hearts. Sending a depth of love to you today and always. Heidi, Dennis, and Nico

  2414. This is an amazing emotionally pure, poignant and powerful essay on grief underscored with the hope, resilience, and purpose. As we gather together today on the west coast our families will not be together however we will share memories of times spent at the very table pictured, at the period table in the formal dining room that at the time we left had become a small gallery of Alex’s collected items, and other tables here, there and abroad where conversation has flowed easily and often humorously enhanced by the food, wine and folks that have joined us destined to become new friends. The language of love and inclusion has always been spoken in your family making it such an inviting and enchanting place to be and grow. I can clearly picture the non culinary projects creatively developed there as well, some time sensitive and others ongoing. Alex will continue to be celebrated and her presence always requested.
    I love you Susie and Towny and Alex and am eternally grateful for the family you became to us and the impact you have had on our lives. A toast in the spirit of gratitude…faith….love

  2415. So beautiful and so brave. My heart is with you every single day.

  2416. Eileen Sutherland November 24, 2018 at 11:12 am

    Dear Susan,
    This is the most beautiful, touching, and heartfelt tribute to your beautiful daughter Alex. Thank you for sharing your heart with us.

  2417. We are so grateful for what you have shared. From the unimaginable pain of losing your lovely Alex, you have enriched us with a beautifully balanced tasting of wisdom, humor, heartbreak, wonder, hope and resilience. Like the wines and wineful experiences you describe so vividly each time, you’ve given us a very special “taste” of Alex and your own heart that we will always remember and cherish.

  2418. You dig deep into your own and your family’s amazing strength to write magnificently about the beauty of your sharing community. Thank you for letting us know how you have been, not just continuing but relying on the bounty of love that has always been at any table where you, Towny, and Alex sit. Colleen wrote that you will always be three. Yes. Alex is with us. Always. How gracious of you to keep us with you. Thank you.

    I see a book being born here. This chapter you have written is stunning.

  2419. I am touched by your post, Susan, as well as your generosity of thought and enthusiasm for life, wines and love. Thank you so much!

  2420. Dear Susan
    This must be the opening chapter in your book about Alex. You write beautifully and eloquently about an incredibly tragic event. You demonstrate that good food and wine can help celebrate and mourn together Alex’s remarkable life and her sudden passing. From now on, I will toast Alex with every glass of wine I drink. With love from Alex’s grieving Godmother.

  2421. Dear Susan,

    When Stephen said he wailed reading this article, I knew I couldn’t face it yet. Uncle died 3 days after this was written, and my mama in May. And the tradegy of losing a child flooded back the pain from 7 years ago. It’s unbelievable to think our nephew, David would now be of legal age to enjoy a glass at a thanksgiving table….

    Your words exquisitely describe grieving and being thankful, and how they are entertwined like the braid. I don’t think it ever gets easier, I think our ability to live ambiguously strengthens. A glass of wine, a smell, a flash memory is all it takes… these are the moments for grieving and appreciating what was once there. And to celebrate how they affected our lives ?

    Thank you for sharing.
    Our deepest love and thoughts are with you both.

    Big hugs and bisous from Cotignac,
    Vic and Marcel

  2422. LOVED the artfully crafted vid+music accompaniment! Thanks, WT & DS! ? ? ? ? ?

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:51 am

      Cloe,
      You should have seen the two artists at work–that was fun to watch, too! Thank you for popping by and leaving a comment.

  2423. FAMOUS ! MANY DAYS, SO, IN 2019 !
    TENDRESSES, MUMU & PIERROT

  2424. Thanks! What a fun way to begin 2019!

  2425. Empathy, thoughtfulness, and humor. A good start to 2019. Thanks and love. Mary

  2426. Marjorie A Lane-Mangogna January 2, 2019 at 2:14 pm

    What a lovely vignette of a simple and special day — and the music was a treat!

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:57 am

      Thanks, Marjorie! It took them a while to find the right music–I will pass on your compliment!

  2427. Wanda F. Porter January 2, 2019 at 2:26 pm

    With many thanks and best wishes for the New Year.

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:58 am

      As we near the mid-point of the year, I hope your newest year is going very well, Wanda!

  2428. Fantastique! A soothing year definitely starts with a stocked wine rack:) xoxo

  2429. If you’ve ever had a good cassoulet, you know that it is an addictive dish. There is something magical about how the flavors come together, and you will find yourself craving more and more! David made an “authentic” cassoulet and, yes, I am still craving his cassoulet six days later! The Clos du Gravillas Old Vine Carignan was a perfect pairing. Carignan is an under-appreciated grape variety and this wine is a stellar example of how sophisticated an old vine single varietal Carignan can be. The meal was terrific with a delicious wine that complemented it perfectly. Try the recipe (and the wine)…you will not be disappointed!

    • Thanks, Towny – lets just say I made it as “authentic” as I possibly could! It was a lot of fun coming up with the recipe, looking at the many versions available to us. Maybe next time we can get the Tarbais beans! The wine was truly fantastic – wish it were readily available here! Perhaps we need to make a trip to Clos du Gravillas and bring some back!

  2430. I had a cassoulet once when I visited Montpellier and it was so incredibly delicious that it has stuck with me all these years! I was told that having the right beans was critical to the success of the dish so I never tried to make it. It sounds like you were successful without the Tarbais beans so I will have to give it try. Thank you for giving me the courage to tackle making a cassoulet. I will look for the wine too! Santé!

    • Eric – thank you so much for your comment! I had actually fond some Tarbais beans just for this visit, but just before Susan and Towny arrived, I discovered they were filled with beetles! I had to throw them ot (of course) but we didn’t have time to order more online. So, with a lot of research, we discovered that cannellini beans do make a great substitute and no one was disappointed! I would definitely recommend giving this a try. When I next make it, I plan to add some pork shoulder/pork butt to mine!

  2431. Ive tried so many cassoulet recipes. This one looks better than anything ive made haha

    • Ashley, I have to say – with complete immodesty – that it was amazing. I am making it again this weekend! Thanks for your comment!

  2432. Very interesting – totally different wines, to me the only thing unites them is Syrah )) You don’t mention this but I’d suggest that Les Terrases was the winner that night. Frankly speaking, I would not risk to open Yann Chave that young. As for pairing – beyond praise ))
    Cheers!

    • Thanks for this – especially about the pairing! I do agree that several more years on the Hermitage would have been a good idea. My first taste of it. Yes, I think the Richeaume did win, in the end. It was more complex and I think we talked much more about it.

  2433. I love reading your blogs. The ideas behind the flavors of the dish vs. what you paired it with sounds delish!!! Thank you for sharing. Please let me know if you are ever in California Wine Country!

    • Marla – your comment made my day! I am so pleased and honored that you enjoy my posts! I do get to wine country from time to time – I will let you know!

  2434. mary norcross March 3, 2019 at 5:32 pm

    Thank you, Susan! Another wine to put on the to-taste list when I visit France in May.

    • Hi Mary,
      Oh, you must be so excited! I will give you our recommendations when we see you. I am also going to write a post about our trip from Lyon to Lourmarin. Just to make sure you know, it was David who wrote this article, though.
      Susan

      • Thanks, Mary! I’m so glad you are getting to go in such a beautiful time of year. We will all look forward to tales of your adventures!

  2435. To me, it’s a great match – the texture of salmon en croute fits ideally to what Viognier may offer. And Viognier aromas add a lot the flavor. Gotta be really cool )

  2436. Sounds like a beautiful match, David. Thanks for the recommendation and the recipe.

    • Pam – I loved seeing photos of your visit with Susan and Towny! I just wish I could have been there. If I had, I would have made you the Salmon Wellington!

  2437. Will be movin’ to this tune next time I pop a cork. Fab!

  2438. Kudos for the initiative and the effort Jerry! Fab article, once again. You really stimulated some interesting comments from folks far and wide.
    Having had the effects of social desirability and other biases slapped into my little head in school, however, I wouldn’t bet the vineyard on the reliability of an overwhelming percentage of wine professionals believing that vintage is significant in choice of rosé wine. Time after time, I have heard Provence winemakers say that job one is to
    achieve a consistent, recognizable, signature wine each year regardless of seasonal variations. Looking for that to change though with Provence wine growers’ increasing confidence in their market and interest in, and ongoing research on, rosés de garde.
    But 74% of professionals thinking vintage is important in rosé selection at this time? I’m going to have to go with eloquent congressman Paul Gossar on this one!

  2439. A great blog and this Viognier article is an interesting read – thanks. I absolutely agree: Condrieu is my favourite white wine. Can’t often afford it though as its shot up in price in recent years. With a group of like-minded friends I used to order Guigal Condrieu for about €15 a bottle in the early 2000’s – more than twice that nowadays! I love the southern Rhône too, reds and whites, but for rosés it’s got to be Provence and the Côteaux Varois – I’m fortunate to live just an hour to the east of this region ?
    (Thanks again for your response on Insta to my Old Fashioned article – this week it’s the mighty Margarita. But my first love is wine.) Chin chin!

    • David – thanks for your note. Condrieu is a wonderful wine and I, too, wish it weren’t so expensive! I love Guigal wines but didn’t know they make a Condrieu… I will be searching for that now.

  2440. A thoroughly enjoyable read, and noting how Rosé Wine has come into its own, I’m pleased with that as I seem to be drinking it all the time now, W.T.s photos certainly enhanced the article.

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:41 am

      Hi Paul,
      Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad it has come into its own, too. Do you have a favorite rosé?

  2441. Your inimitable writing style of smart and relaxed brings WineParis alive. The written covering of “trade shows” can be list-like, but not yours. The WT photos definitely complement.

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:43 am

      Hi Mary and Art,
      I’m always looking for a hook….some stories are harder than others! I’m glad to hear it worked and I shall pass on the kind words to Towny!

  2442. Very enjoyable article. We really enjoy following your exploits in Provence and share your love of Lourmarin. That area is our “go to”. Your descriptions of Wine Paris really make it come alive and your writings always help educate us on the most recent releases.

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:47 am

      Thanks, Dale, for your nice words. When one has the pleasure of knowing Lourmarin, writing comes easily. Do you have a favorite rosé?

  2443. As always, an amazing and informative post. It is particularly relevant as I sip rose in Lourmarin—the large windows of the villa open to warm spring air.
    PS I love the limited edition art bottles.

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 7:49 am

      Weren’t you lucky to be in Lourmarin sipping rosé — and reading PWZ! — a combination that is hard to beat!

  2444. Thinking of all of you.

    • Susan Manfull May 5, 2019 at 8:04 am

      Thank you, Heidi, for regularly popping by and commenting! It is always nice to see your name on my screen.

  2445. Dorothy Sheldon April 2, 2019 at 6:21 pm

    I found your site and am so thrilled for you. I would love to hear from you again gros buses Dot xx

  2446. I got hungry just reading your story!

    I find that beans really cut down the tannins in a wine so the perfect wine for me with cassoulet is something very tannic, like a Madiran or an Irouléguy. But your wine sounds delicious as well!

    • Thanks, Keith! I had never thought of beans reducing tannins before – definitely will be trying that combination.

      I just saw your article abuot Notre Dame on Perfectly Provence and I look forward to reading it!

  2447. I am so terribly saddened to read of Jerry’s passing. Thank you for sharing the background of how a great friendship grew from a random postcard, and blossomed over wine. My thoughts and prayers are with you and his family.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 4:29 pm

      Thank you, Carolyne, for your lovely note. Sometimes wonderful friendships grow from the most unexpected places. We miss him already.

  2448. Great article in tribute to a specialoenophile.

  2449. Mike and Betsy April 22, 2019 at 6:10 am

    Dear Susan,
    We’re sorry about your losing your good friend, colleague, collaborator and occasional sparring partner.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 4:31 pm

      And wine taster…He loved it when your drawings accompanied his articles!

  2450. So sorry for your loss. I remember, with fondness, several of his articles, and also the joy he brought to the wine tasting table. What a beautiful tribute.

  2451. This is such a sad moment. I met Jerry 2 hours from our home in New York at Starbucks on a very rainy day, just about one year ago. We had just released our inaugural vintage 2017 Shoshana Rosé of Pinot noir. He reached out to me through linkedin as he was doing a story in vintage years of Rosé. We began communicating through email and very quickly became friends! When we met he handed me a piece of paper with notes on it about a woman named Shoshana. He shared with me that the fanciful name of our Rosé, which is named for our daughter with the same name, was the character in a story he had started to write years before but never finished it. We spent the next two hours talking about our families and the joy they brought us along with sharing that we both had recently lost family members. Jerry lost his son and I lost a very young brother. We talked about all of his adventures he had shared with his wife traveling the world. At the end I gave him a bottle of our Rosé and he said he was going to do a blind Rosé tasting and would only drink it with Susan and his wife. He kept in touch with me through email and linkedin. For only knowing him such a short time, he gave me so much encouragement with our brand new wine label and promised that we would make our meeting in Connecticut an annual event. I told him I hoped we could host him and his wife at our ranch in Sonoma county. Most recently we were amazed to find out we were connected through Susan who had done a piece on our very dear friends and winemaker, kale Anderson. He said “the world is a small place”Such a mensch! A lovely man with a deep soul. I will never forget his kindness.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:27 pm

      Dear Marla,
      Jerry wanted us to meet and for all of us to share your wine. We must make that happen…and toast to our mutual friend. Thanks for this lovely remembrance. I will write to you under separate cover.

  2452. Thank you Susan for this nice article on a very good friend and a great man.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:41 pm

      Jean, thank you for this note…I had the pleasure of meeting you through Jerry!

  2453. Susan – how fortunate we were to have had Jerry in our midst. I wish I had met him in person – it almost happened a month ago – as his passion for family, food, and wine were unparalleled. My condolences to you and especially to Ben and his family. May the wine pour freely in heaven.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:39 pm

      David, I wish you had met Jerry and Ben…you would have enjoyed both of them very much. I know you almost met Jerry two months ago in Tucson. As you say, may the wine pour freely in heaven! Indeed.

  2454. I first met Jerry in the late ’60’s or early ’70’s… Back in those days Jerry worked for Harris, a press manufacturer & we both represented out companies in a research section of the Printing Industries of America. Even then we knew Jerry was a serious wine buff, although as a group most of us saw wine as either red or white, sweet or not…but Jerry kept educating us & told stories of his latest wine cellar explorations. A kind & nice guy, but yes, I do recall that snarky humor. He will be missed… Neil Richards

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:43 pm

      Neil, as you write, he will be missed! I suspect you will think of him the next time you open a bottle of wine!

  2455. Thanks to you, I met Jerry. It was a pleasure to share Provence WineZine with him and I’m so grateful that we will always have Lodi. I’ll miss including Jerry’s words on L’Occasion and reading them at Provence WineZine… his knowledge is immeasurable and we are blessed by his writings. Thank you for this beautiful piece.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:44 pm

      Jill, thank you for your nice words. I am glad that I got to play a role in connecting you and Jerry. We all learned from him, didn’t we?

  2456. I had the pleasure of attending several wine tastings with Jerry and Ben. He was a lovely man and so enthusiastic about wines, travel and the people he had met on his trips through France. Whenever I think of him I smile because he was always smiling!

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:51 pm

      So true about Jerry smiling. In the “program” that we received at his service –it was quintessentially Jerry — one line really made me smile. It accompanies a photograph of Jerry and a gaggle of wine bottles and reads: In his last weeks of life, he left explicit instructions that we should make sure to drink his “stash” so the Benedicte’s next husband couldn’t get it.”

  2457. This is certainly sad news to hear. Thank you for a thoughtful and thought provoking remembersnce of Jerry. What a life he lived! A full life rich in experience, long relationships with family and friends, successes, passions, talents, health and love. Here is a toast in his honor, “Live long and love deeply” I wish I were able to remember the nice toast he gave when Jody and I met you for lunch near Lodi a few years ago.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:53 pm

      That was a fun lunch at Wine and Roses, wan’t it? I am so glad that both you and Jody got to meet him!

  2458. Florie Jenkins April 23, 2019 at 5:58 pm

    Susan- This tribute was so profoundly touching to read, you captured him so well. He held your friendship in such high esteem and he always appreciated a good debate on his favorite subject, wine. I know as an editor he had immense respect for you, and I always liked knowing someone was keeping him in check (he had a way of meandering, probably from an over accumulation of knowledge). Thank you for capturing his essence and sharing a little piece of your history.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 5:56 pm

      Oh, Florie,thank you for these nice words. Knowing your dad was an sincere pleasure. He kept me on my toes as an editor and smiling as a friend. My his spirit always walk with you.

  2459. I have known Jerry since the 70s. He was a true gentleman in every sense of the word. His passing is a terrible loss to all those who knew him. I am sure when we all pass on too, he will be waiting for us with a few open bottles of his favorite wines.

    “Death leaves a heartache no one can heal; Love leaves a memory no one can steal”

    Cheers Jerry, It was my pleasure and good fortune to know you

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 6:00 pm

      What heartfelt words, Richard. He was indeed the quintessential gentleman. I miss him already.

  2460. Oh Susan. This is so terribly sad. The day I met Jerry at the Tardieu–Laurent barrel tasting in Lourmarin is etched in my heart, particularily the repas that followed chez Jerry and Ben, their generosity, our laughter. I was not only blown away by Jerry’s connoisseurship and keen palate but by his breadth of knowledge about the world of wine – its history, its trade, its players. And yet he could be counted on to unleash his humor at the absurdities, foibles, and peccadillos of the world he loved. Jerry will never know how very many people will miss him, even those he’s never met. When I think of him I’ll think of how he smiled with his whole face. I’ll think storyteller, authentic guy, funny as hell, and, of course, I’ll think wine maven.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 6:02 pm

      Pam, you captured him very well. That was a most memorable afternoon that, with little notice, passed into evening, and night. Thank you for your lovely thoughts.

  2461. Thank you for the beautiful and interesting tribute to my brother Jerry. I did not inherit the wine gene and I hardly know the difference between…..well, anything. Our most heated wine discussion was whether the old women we knew in Red Hook Brooklyn in the 60s mixed their red wine with Coke or Pepsi. He insists Pepsi and the Wine Maven is always right.

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2019 at 6:07 pm

      I am laughing out loud….maybe you didn’t inherit the wine gene but you definitely got the Clark sense-of-humor gene! Thanks for the smile and for the kind words. Your brother was a real treat to know.

  2462. Happy Cinqo de Mayo! What a lovely combination. I can’t wait to try both the pork and the rosé.

    • I am laughing out loud, Carolyne! It never even occurred to me that this was the perfect post for Cinco de Mayo! It’s really completely unintentional – and in hindsight, I wish I had thought of it! Happy Cinco de Mayo to you and Andrew, as well!

  2463. JERRY WAS GREAT !

  2464. I read your story about Gerry with interest, and you knew him well. I started working with Jerry in the 60’s at Harris, and again with MAN Roland in the 80’s. I probably traveled more than 250,000 miles with him in North America and Europe to my enjoyment and benefit. He introduced me to many wines, great stories and wonderful companionship. The last time I saw him, at our momthly “Old Geezers” lunch Jerry was, as .always, Jerry and we miss him.

  2465. I was also there. Very impressive it was!

  2466. Great article. Just had my first glass of vieux marc in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and was interested to learn more about the spirit. It’s strong but I could see trying more. It’s intriguing!

  2467. We are fortunate to live in Provence for several months every year.
    Our take on rose is to try samples from local caves and buy the most preferred as bag in box 5 or 10 litres at a time …this is great for BBQs and al fresco .
    We always buy organic .
    Regards

  2468. Thoroughly enjoyed your article, and the bringing together of the wine, and the Veal Cordon Bleu Recipe via help from your mom.

  2469. Elizabeth Woods June 29, 2019 at 3:55 pm

    Our local Trader Joes has Taval and it’s been my favorite rose for three years! I’m so happy to learn so much about it! It is TAVEL!

  2470. In addition to your wine descriptions, you slip in gems like a road as “wide as my dining room table” and make the story even more alive. Love your storytelling skills.

  2471. Peter Mansell July 6, 2019 at 7:36 pm

    Hi David, what an interesting article! I did not know that a Côte-Rôtie could have as much as 20% Viognier in it. Viognier sounds like a nice addition to soften a big Syrah for summer drinking on the deck. I personally like grilled meat all year round and a nice Syrah is a perfect match any month of the year but sometimes it seems just too heavy for the warm evenings with BBQ! Do you know if this is available for purchase in the USA? I would love to try it!

    • Hello Peter! It really did round out the wine. Some reviewers actually said they felt it was Rosé-esque but I think that is far from the reality. Sadly, I have not been able to locate this wine in the U.S. – my bottle came directly from France. Thanks, as always, for reading and commenting!

  2472. What a trip! And I absolutely agree that the Côte-Rôtie (Marion’s Les!) would be a fantastic pairing with that duck recipe!but also the duck in caramel sauce. As you know, this week it paired really well with my Grilled Flank Steak Sandwiches with Worcestershire Butter!

    I really want to explore Lyon sometime – all those Michelin-starred restaurants! And here I have never been to one in my life!

    • So many ducks to cook and so much wine to drink! You and Cocoa & Lavender will keep me busy for the rest of my life…and happily so!

  2473. Pamela O'Neill July 8, 2019 at 12:06 pm

    Hi David. I love Côte-Rôtie wines. Don’t generally think of them in the summer heat here in Provence but will try this one next time the steak’s on the grill. Thanks.

  2474. Pamela O'Neill July 12, 2019 at 11:15 am

    Bored into slumber were you? Glad you awoke to give us this great suggestion. Must get my greedy little hands on this wine and whip up some ye olde Cordon Bleu!

  2475. David, we just had a Syrah from Ojai, CA with our meal and it reminded me that there are Syrahs and then “special” Syrahs–like the ones from Côtes-Rôtie! A good Syrah, like the Marions-Les!, can be elegant, fresh, spicy and balanced and pair nicely with a variety of dishes. I wish more winemakers would pull a cork on a Côte-Rôtie (as a benchmark) and strive to make this style of wine over here! Glad you liked it!

  2476. Wonderful article! I was reading M.F.K. Fischer’s “The Standing and the Waiting” — from “Serve it Forth”– in which contrasting types of marc (a mediocre one and a very special one) are pivotal. Your explanation helped my understanding of the significance (and poignancy)of the appellation in the story..and having tasted Grappa and marveled at it’s gritty sweetness, I could imagine the marc..

  2477. hmmm, not sure about your pairing. I would have chosen a white rather than rose but kept the rose for aperos but without the blue cheese which should have been better with the cheese course. But it’s fabulous to find a rose I like and at 12.5 which is increasingly rare.

    • Hi Jan. I agree – a white would work nicely with his dish, but the rosé was a lovely pairing, as well. I only tried it with tech cheese because, well, I test everything, I got the result I expected! It was really nice with the lardo and fish – probably. Because of the fat content in both! Yes, the lower alcohol is getting rare – especially with what gets chosen to import to the U.S. – I don’t know why we think higher alcohol is better!

  2478. I simply loved the Léoube. What a treat! Where can we buy another?

  2479. Happy (belated) Anniversary! I look forward to reading the recipe on your site.

  2480. Glad to have met you and introduced you to Enna’s special chocolate world! You are right – Susan and Towny’s home is a Mecca for wonderful food, fine wine and superb company!

    • Michael – I am so grateful for the introduction to Enna! Her chocolate is amazing, and — more than that — she is a wonderful person! And you are so right about Susan and Towny, it is their warmth and welcoming way that make being at their home so special!

  2481. OMG. What a glorious meal! Thank you for the recipe and perfect wine pairing.

  2482. This looks amazing! When I return home I will be giving this a try. I’m so happy you’ve made this discovery.

  2483. Hi David. Interested in this “Châteauneuf-du-Pape at Côtes du Rhône prices,” I scurried to the Celliers des Princes website, hopeful that, here in France, it might actually fall within my humble budget . Sadly, Le Prince de Courthézon is not listed among their wines. Export only? The sole wine with the same assemblage is the Côtes du Rhône “Sceau du Prince.” However, it’s listed as 4.80€ per bottle! Doubtful. But what if? Do I hear blind tasting?

    • Pam – the way I look at it, you have a good experiment in the works for a super low investment of €4.85! Why not give it a try? After writing, I did some more research and found that my Prince seemed only available through private sources… clubs, etc. I wonder why…

  2484. I have now been fortunate enough to have tasted several of these but La Chapelle will hold in my memory for a long time. (Now, that is a long finish!)

    Your writing about the steep slopes takes me back to the early 80s when I was just beginning to drink wine… I was living in Germany and was always told to look for bottles with labels that showed the vineyards on steep slopes – the sun would more easily “kiss” each grape and give the wine better flavor! Fun memory.

    Thanks for Part II!

    • I love your reference to the steep German slopes–probably those along the Moselle River? I had just read about a wine tour hosted by Markus Niggli of Markus Wine in Lodi (https://markuswine.com/events/ )along those the Moselle and Rhine rivers. Wouldn’t that be fun?

      In the meantime, I shall relish my memories of driving along the Rhone!

  2485. What a lovely story, it’s like you’ve taken me to the vineyards and wineries of France. The history is so interesting. I look forward to joining one of you tours!

  2486. Bien chère,
    Tout cela nous met l’eau – pardon, le vin à la bouche…
    J’aime tout particulièrement la photo du début d’article. Good job, Towny !
    Tendresses,
    Pierrot

    • Nous avons hâte d’ouvrir une bonne bouteille de vin et de prendre un verre ensemble!
      Tendresses….

  2487. Hi!
    Here is a voice from the past…a time when life was simple,uncomplicated,secure and serene. A time when Monday night was piano lesson night at the Manfull house. I enjoy your E-Magazine and am impressed with your writing and Towny’s photos. I especially enjoy hearing and seeing about your trips. What a beautiful country. You both look wonderful> Age has caught up with us, the world comes to us now and daughter Carol has added on to our house as she lives with us now. As long as we keep away from mirrors and do not attempt too many extreme movements we feel like teenagers as we enjoy retirement in NH. I no longer drink wine so cannot add anything of use on that subject.I can be happy for those who can enjoy the wines you tell us about that they have you to share with!

    Lots of Love and God’s Blessings,
    Alice

    • Oh my, Alice! Monday evenings will always be associated with Alice McNabb standing at the piano with Alex and me, patiently nudging us along and, for me, finding some way to praise my efforts. For Alex, the praise came much easier! We both knew I would never be playing Bach in Carnegie Hall, but I sure loved my lessons. I know Alex did, too! I carry those memories close to my heart.
      You will always be young in spirit. Thank you so very much for dropping me a note.
      With much, much love.

  2488. This recipe looks fantastic. Have you tried this spice and sauce combination with beef? I really enjoy a good Vacqueyras. I find they are often a better value
    than Châteauneuf-du-Papes that are just two villages over! I can’t wait to try this recipe!

    • Hello, Peter,
      Yes – I think this spice rub and sauce would work beautifully with beef. I could also imagine it on venison, too. Let me know what you think. It was really lovely with the Vacqueyras!

  2489. Garrus is my all time favorite rosé. While technically it may be a rosé, to me it is by far in a class of its own. I had the amazing fortune to have two bottles last night, a 2012 and a 2017, with the best of company. It was heavenly, and yes, I would say the best rosé in the world. Thank you Sasha Lichine. I hope you will continue to enhance my afternoons and evenings, and bring bounty to my table, for years to come.

    • Heidi,
      It was fun to have you at the tasting table! Garrus is indeed in a class of its own. Its ageing potential was apparent, too, wasn’t it? Cheers!

  2490. The duck looks mouth-watering. I’ve made duck with a cherry port reduction but never with a spice rub. Your duck along with the mash look like great recipes to try. I seem to be picking up one of your recipes a week lately and I always love to get Susan’s thoughts on wine pairing. It is also quite interesting how a spice can dramatically change the experience of a wine.

    • Spice really does make for interesting wine pairings – bringing out flavors in both the food and wine! I am so happy you are making and enjoying some of the Cocoa & Lavender recipes. It does a heart good to hear that!

  2491. Mary Juneau-Norcross December 17, 2019 at 9:25 am

    Thanks, Susan! I have a bottle tucked away from one of our trips. Time to bring it out!

  2492. Your article has inspired me to look for a bottle of vin cuit on the West Coast. Perhaps Kermit Lynch in Berkeley will have a bottle. xo

  2493. What can I say? You have the most interesting and inspiring posts. I also loved the photo of the “cauldron of juice ….” I wanted to drink from it.

  2494. 14.5% – I’ve stopped buying as have many of my friends.

    • Hi Jan – thanks for your comment. As you know, there is a +/- 0.5% allowance in Provence for the alcohol content. And, yes, even at 14% this might be high. But it is incredibly well-balanced. As I said, I was completely unaware of the high percentage because it was just so good. I hope you get a chance o try it sometime to see for yourself.

  2495. Hi Jan – thanks for your comment. As you know, there is a +/- 0.5% allowance in Provence for the alcohol content. And, yes, even at 14% this might be high. But it is incredibly well-balanced. As I said, I was completely unaware of the high percentage because it was just so good. I hope you get a chance o try it sometime to see for yourself.

  2496. Excellent article. The Château la Calisse sounds like an excellent wine even though I am partial to reds.

  2497. Archie McNally, in Lawrence Sanders writings, was always a fan of marc, An interesting character throughout the series.

  2498. These wines all sound amazing, Viktorija – and the region is so beautiful. Definitely worth a trip, as I am sure my Tucson distributors won’t be carrying any of these small production wines. I would especially love to get my hands on a bottle of Le Grand Rolle! I have really come to love Rolle wines from France, versus those (Vermentino) from Italy. Such a difference between the two!

  2499. Hi David, I am really surprised about the issue with 2010 La Jaufrette as it was a great year for almost all the Rhône wines. I have had this wine before but from a different vintage (I cannot recall which year but not as old as 2010) and it was a lovely wine and the alcohol was kept well in balance. I wonder if the bottle had not been stored properly or was affected by shipping?

  2500. I have been to Nice many times but never strayed away from the city center to visit the wineries. I am intrigued by the Folle Noire grape variety. I have never heard of it before. How long does the Folle Noire need to age to reach its peak? I will likely visit Domaine de la Source on my next visit. Any other wineries I should consider?

  2501. You know i have wanted to meet Tara since Susan first told me about her. Amazing history and fabulous wine. Who would not want to search for her at Kita and taste this fabulous wine for one’s self. Expanding one’s wine palette is a perfect excuse for road tripping Southern California, ultimately arriving at your door to share and pair with one of your delicious culinary creations. Thank you for a surprise to do reminder David,

  2502. What a great article. I love their journey and can’t wait to try the wine!

  2503. What a great article. I love the story of their winemaking journey. Looking forward to getting their natural wine!

  2504. I think I may have to order a case of Sauvignon Blanc from Kitá as everyone I talk to wants to try it…but they also want you and your Coquilles Saint-Jacques!

  2505. I would so love to visit both wineries… Every sip of every wine I have had has been stellar. I’m not the type who wants to meet famous actors or performers, but I would so love to meet Tara and Mireia- because, to me, they are rock stars! By the way, pairing the exquisite Sauvignon Blanc with the scallops was heavenly. I need to get more!

    • Hi David,
      Well, I am so late in responding to these comments, I know you have had a chance to get more — and have enjoyed another Sauvignon Blanc and have yet another to open!

  2506. Well, I finally wrote my piece about making Calissons d’Aix – and this article was the perfect inspiration! I love the history of the wine, and how it is made – the smokiness is so appealing, as it is for me in a fine, single malt scotch.

  2507. SUPER !
    MUMU & PIERROT

  2508. Susan, thank you for this excellent guide! I will use it as a reference to buy from my Favorite local wine store, Ball Square Fine Wines. Due to CV-19 they have changed their biz model to pick up and delivery. So this guide is a handy way to order on line!
    A shout out to the photographer! I felt as if I were there!
    Here is to better days!

    • Mary,
      Thanks for those nice words. I am so glad you are part of the PWZ audience.
      I passed along the shout out to the photographer (he was downstairs, fiddling with his camera!).
      And a resounding yes to better days!

  2509. Thank you so much for depicting the tasting so clearly.
    So awesome you made this trip safely.
    Hats off to the Manfull’s for a lifting article during this crisis.

  2510. Hi Terri,
    We were very lucky. Covid-19 was a barely audible buzz way in the background when we were in France. How quickly things change. Thanks so much for your nice note!

  2511. I’m so glad you were able to attend… another week, and who knows? Loved reading about this year’s offerings and hope a few make it to Tucson. I look forward to tasting La Lampe de Méduse – let’s talk food possibilities soon! I am very excited for the 2019 rosés, tariffs be damned!

  2512. We were very lucky to attend. As COVID-19 news continues to get worse across the globe, I shudder to think of its negative impact on nearly every industry. We will do our part for Provence and Rhône wines! Château Sainte Roseline Lampe de Medusa will be a real treat!

  2513. This recipe sounds absolutely wonderful but not for the lamb here in Provence. Here, yes it too is grass fed it’s but much more than that as I can see from my window. They’re grazing on thyme, rosemary and the wildflowers that are covering the hillsides. I wouldn’t want to do anything more than something simple. But of course, the wine sounds perfect.

    • Thanks, Jan — I completely understand wanting to use the simplest preparation as possible with your lamb! You could easily try this with beef or pork — it would be just as good! Oh, how I would love some if that Provençal lamb now!

  2514. How terribly sad for those vineyards effected. They are having a shit time – I apologise for being vulgar but I really think it’s justified here. Good article Susan.

  2515. Hi David,
    That’s an apt description, I would say. Many people just see the romantic side of winemaking. I suppose writers like me are partly at fault for inadvertently reinforcing this idyllic view but it is, in fact, an occupation riddled with potential stressors. Those stressors of weather (too much rain, too little rain, hail, frost,flooding etc.), fire, infestation, mildew, imposed tariffs,poor reviews, financial worries, etc. seldom happen all at once and are usually balanced by the tremendous pleasures winemaking can bring. Finding balance now is tough! Let’s keep them all in our thoughts and prayers….toasts! Thanks for your note!

  2516. I remember this trip on the barge. Alex was in fourth grade and you rented it with Stephanie and Miles I think. I believe I received a bag of lavender and a beautiful mirror. I hope that your Easter is peaceful.

  2517. A great article, Susan, congratulations!

    • Thank you, Franco, for such a nice endorsement. It was lots of fun to “do the research” and to write about this talented winemaker!

  2518. Dear Susan,
    This has been a wonderful story, and the mystery that you and Towny have been visiting and living in Lourmarin for so many years, that you never knew that this vineyard existed, and the fact that it has no address, that made me laugh, Towny’s images really show that Julien and Herve have found what so many people are looking for , their own utopia.
    Love from Paul

    • Hi Paul, Thanks for that nice feedback! This property would be a perfect backdrop for a film about a utopia but, of course, the world in which a winemaker works is far from perfect…what with hail, and pests, and wildlife to mention just a few challenges. It is fun to think about, especially now! Love right back to you!

  2519. Susan, your article is really astonishing. You’ve captured the essence of the place and the people and then done a very intelligent and complete description of the wine and the process of making it. kudos to you but also to Besson et al.
    Good job,
    Lin

    • Hi Lin, So nice to see your name pop up. You are not so far away that, when Coronavirus worries have subsided, you can head over to Lourmarin and pick up a bottle of Besson’s wine. Thank you for the very nice feedback on the article and for the kudos to Julien and his team. Stay well!

  2520. As usual, your story looped me inside both the culture of Native Americans and the culture of winemakers. Not much of wine drinker or appreciator, I dive deep into your stories for their history and metaphor, their personal identities, their connections to land and people, and the lessons offered.
    Thank you.

    • Hi Mary, I am so glad you enjoyed the article — each winemaker has an interesting story! They were great fun to interview and to do a little tasting with!

  2521. Très bel article m’a été donné de lire. Il retranscrit très bien je que j’ai compris de Julien au travers des valeurs insufflées par ses parents. Bonne continuation à Julien dans sa démarche.

    • Merci, Didier, pour vos aimables commentaires sur l’article. Ce fut un plaisir d’interviewer Julien et de découvrir le bon travail que lui (et son équipe) accomplit au domaine. J’ai hâte de suivre ses progrès et d’apprécier ses vins.

  2522. What a delightful post, Susan! I can hardly wait to return to Lourmarin where I hope to have the good fortune to try some of these wines. I was thinking of you Sunday evening when I had to select a bottle of wine to accompany a special spring lamb dinner. I wondered which bottle in my slim collection you might chose. I discovered a bottle from Domaine de L’Ocre Rouge which I believe is about 150 km east of Lourmarin-although I could be wrong about that. It was a 2015 biodynamic red blend grown at the estate, De Natura Vini. My research said it would pair well with lamb. The wine was rich and intense while being smooth and delicious with a nice finish. We had a lovely respite in the midst of this horrific pandemic, and we toasted—”a votre santé bonheur” which I extend to you and Towny.

    • Hi Heidi, You must try Julian’s wines the next time you are in Lourmarin! It sounds like you are making the most of this period — cooking good food and pairing it with good wine!I can’t wait until we can do that together! Et à votre santé, mes chers Dennis et Heidi!

  2523. David, it is so interesting to see this post. Just yesterday Dennis was making a lamb dinner and I had remembered an earlier post where I believe you suggested, in this pandemic, to pull out the fancy china and tablecloth for everyday encounters. I pulled out a beautiful white cloth that was a yet unopened gift, and my grandmother’s china which I had never used. I was struggling to select the appropriate wine for the lamb so I went to Cocoa and Lavender, searched through all recipes for lamb, and this exact recipe with your wine selection came up. You were with us as I set the table and decanted a French red, Domaine de L’Ocre, 2015 De Natua Vini (the closest I could find to your blend). Thank you for enhancing our table and evening!
    Heidi
    PS Dennis says he will return to this recipe for his next lamb dinner.

    • Heidi – I am so glad you got out the white tablecloth and your grandmother’s china — I wish I could have seen your beautiful table and Dennis’ beautiful lamb. The wine sounds like a great choice. Thanks for bringing Cocoa & Lavender to your table. Hope you are well and safe.

  2524. Comme c’est divine!! What a fabulous story and photographs by you and Towny. Indeed, it is like a fairy tale, written and illustrated so beautifully. Thank you for allowing me to daydream…..Audrey

    • Hi Audrey, This story does inspire day dreaming doesn’t it? Towny’s photo’s bring the words alive! We will elaborate when we see you…sometime soon!

  2525. Hi! I loved this account, thank you so much for sharing! I believe the holiday of Easter Monday is all that left of the whole week being a holiday as the Easter celebration officially ends on the Saturday after Easter. I live nearby so next year I will try to make it for the giant omelette!
    Best regards,
    Tina

  2526. MERCI Beaucoup Susan et Towny d’être venus avec Hervé afin de découvrir tout l’environnement de La Cavalière et ma Philosophie de travail. Votre venue m’a fait énormément plaisir car vous êtes des passionnés et de très belles personnes avec un coeur généreux…. c’est pour cela que nous avons passé presque 5h à échanger nos questions / réponses. Encore MERCI pour votre si joli article, les photos de Towny qui illustrent si bien l’écriture de Susan et la Magie Mystérieuse de ce lieu. J’ai très rarement lu un article aussi complet et détaillé… à très bientôt au Domaine pour un déjeuner dans le potager avec nos tomates, notre basilic, notre huile d’olive, notre Rosé… et vos Sourires.

    Julien

    • Ah, c’était un après-midi magique … c’est toujours gratifiant d’écrire une histoire comme la vôtre et de l’équipe du Domaine de la Cavalière. Le plus grand défi était de trouver les bons mots pour raconter cette merveilleuse histoire. Les photos de Towny ont donné à l’histoire une texture et une richesse. Nous te remercions de l’invitation et, bien sûr, remercions chaleureusement notre cher ami commun Hervé pour sa présentation à toi et à ton vin. Nous sommes impatients de revenir et de nous retrouver dans le potager pour ces tomates fraîches et basilic avec votre fabuleuse huile d’olive et, bien sûr, ton vin.

  2527. Patti Thornton April 29, 2020 at 4:44 pm

    This mystery has moved to the top of my list to solve. I’ve been distracted, admittedly. The first time was a tease and I put it down until I could finish it. Once I did, I immediately reread it because the third time I wanted to meander, breathe deeply, soak in the aromatic fragrances, be drawn into the textures and touch the elements as I lingered long in the potager, held the terroir in my hand to feel its warmth and see the color more closely. At the end I wanted to travel back in time to be able to hug everyone responsible for this domaine, it’s fabulous team and those who so highly recognize the value of building a future in such a creative sustainable trajectory tightly, with gratitude, joining in the beauty of this magical secret haven with absolutely no inkling of what was to come so soon after. With our wandering ceased, this was the perfect read and visual alternative to quarantine. Thank you Susan for an exquisite article and Towny for the fabulous captures of this paradise. And, of course, for sharing After Tracteur and Lé Bouquet In Lourmarin. As a long time close friend of an award winning wine writer, I probably should not admit that I would have chosen that wine based merely on the artistry of the label, no recommendation required. Such a fine escape this has been. Thank you once again for reminding me of the magic that is held in wonders of the south of France ?? ?

    • Susan Manfull May 3, 2020 at 1:59 pm

      Hi Patti, We will take a walk to Domaine de la Cavalière the next time we are in Lourmarin together so you can feel the magic. Thanks for the kind feedback and lovely thoughts about that area of the world.

  2528. Patti Thornton April 29, 2020 at 4:53 pm

    p.s. the label I referred to at the end is Lé Tracteur

    • Susan Manfull May 3, 2020 at 2:02 pm

      Actually, you were right the first time….the cuvée is “After Tracteur.” I neglected to ask Julien why he used the English word. By the way, you tasted this wine!

  2529. Such an intriguing and interesting story Susan! The idea of a vineyard with no address is fabulously captivating. I love “discreet”. Cant wait to get to Lourmarin (whenever there might be flights again from Australia to France) so that I can appreciate the full experience by finding this unidentified vineyard as well. Looking forward to it! Cheers

    • Susan Manfull May 3, 2020 at 2:05 pm

      Hi Neil, After you had to abruptly curtail your trip and return home (due to Covid), I suspect you are camping at the bit to resume your trip, including Lourmarin! As a person well acquainted with the Rhone Valley, I will look forward to hearing your thoughts about the Luberon AOC. Thanks for the nice feedback.

  2530. What a great article. Susan. I would so love to go there…. to taste the wines, see the vineyards and wander in his potager. I love the huge artichoke plant, and the handful of asparagus that was growing amongst the vines. What a labor of love this is for him, his fiancée and the others. By the way, I love the photo of you and Julien together in your matching olive-colored vests!

    • Susan Manfull May 4, 2020 at 6:38 pm

      Well, you will just have to return to Lourmarin…and don’t wait until the next round number! You and Mark would love a stroll through the potager and, of course, the wine!

  2531. Chères Vous,

    Ma découverte de l’incroyable travail de Julien est à présent le plus beau cadeau que j’ai pu vous faire. Vous sublimez le travail des vignerons qui m’est si important… nous partageons un plaisir commun et qui ne peut que comme le vin prendre du beau et bon goût avec le temps.

    Il y aura toujours dans nos verres une pensée émue et une grande envie de dire à nouveau SANTÉ ou « chers ».

    Mon secret est à présent le vôtre.

    À bientôt vous revoir.

    Amitiés

    Herve

    • Susan Manfull May 10, 2020 at 10:02 am

      Cher Hervé, le vin et la nourriture peuvent rapprocher les gens, mais on a de la chance quand il y’a quelque chose de spécial que les maintient ensemble. Je suis reconnaissant d’être ton ami et maintenant d’être un ami de tes amis. J’ai hâte de vivre plus de moments oenologiques ensemble. Un toast à Julien et ses vins.

  2532. Nice article about a very good producer. I saw Neil took the bike to the Hermitage Chapel. About 10 years ago we took our front wheel drive car to the chapel, it is not recommended, a very rough and unpaved road.
    Glad that the Valrhona chocolate factory is mentioned, can be highly recommended as their dark chocolate is one of the best.

    • Thanks Göran, glad you enjoyed the article. The road up to the chapel is much better nowadays, however the electric bike is far more exciting and great fun!

  2533. Just when you thought you knew all the interesting wineries in CA, you discover another one! I will look for Kita wines and I am intrigued by their natural wines too. Thank you for revealing another hidden gem in Lompoc.

  2534. Hi David, I tried this wine a few years ago and was not a fan of it. Your article inspired me to try it again with food. I think the squid ink may be hard to find and the risotto beyond my culinary skills. Can you recommend another dish to pair with this? Or send me a link to another one of your recipes? Thanks!

  2535. Hello Neil! Happy to read this story on Provence WineZine.

    Chapoutier wines are endlessly delicious and interesting! Thanks for sharing this incredible tour and lovely photos.

    • Glad you enjoyed it Jill. When you are able to do so, you simply must visit Tain and the Chapoutier cellar door. and stay overnight at the Chapoutier hotel across the road!

  2536. Hi Neil, I have always been a big fan of Hermitage reds and whites but they are generally a little pricey for everyday. I understand M. Chapoutier has some vineyards in Australia. Have you tried those since you have returned to Australia? Are the Shiraz from Australia anything like their Hermitage?

    • Hi Eric, Yes, Chapoutier have held vineyards in Australia (Heathcote and the Pyrenees) since 1997. Their cellar door in Australia is in Heathcote, which is 90 minutes north of Melbourne. Great wines, great value too, made in a somewhat similar fashion, however expressing their local terroir. Definitely worth tasting to fully experience for yourself!

  2537. I love everything about Cassis, the wines, the landscapes, the village, the beaches etc… Thank you so much for this article !

  2538. I had no idea that all vines of that AOC were in Calanques National Park. I have only been there once but it is one of my favorite places in all of Provence. And, now, I come to find it is an area that champions several of my favorite grapes. Thanks for an informative and beautifully written post, Viktorija.

  2539. I can’t wait to try this recipe! I love LOVE Rosé!!! I can just imagine the flavors of lemon and Smokey salmon and the creamy texture of risotto dancing in my mouth! (While listening to these great love songs, of course!).
    Thank you David for this beautiful pairing!

  2540. This article was so fun to read and hear! It just makes you want to sip a glass of LOVE Rosé! I’m still drinking the 2018 and it is tasting fabulous! That’s the difference between a quality organic Rosé and a “drink now” Rosé. Provence Rosés are by far the best in the world! Thank you Susan for this wonderful article! Thank you David for the lovely pairing!
    Xox

  2541. Patti Thornton June 7, 2020 at 7:06 am

    From the intro by Susan I decided to “?Sit back, relax. Take a little ride on the ?motorbike”? and allow myself to remember that ?Magic moment so different and so new? when Susan invited Mary and I to accompany her on my first visit to Chateau Léoube late last summer. The warmth of a late summer day. It was LOVE at first sight as I breathed deeply taking in the breeze off the Mediterranean, the beauty of the lush vineyard dotted with the people who return each year to harvest the grapes bursting forth from the vines in what is the most meticulously kept vineyard i have ever had the pleasure of visiting. As a life long Californian I’ve visited a number of vineyards and many wineries. “This magic moment so different and so new” witnessing harvest from the vineyard level and learning about the layers of their multifaceted, sustainable growing philosophy, a fabulous tasting followed by a delectable lunch on the shore at Cafe Léoube as the music of the sea played its shimmering notes audibly and visibly as we languished made for memories never be forgotten.

    • What lovely memories, Patti! Someday I hope to visit Château Léoube in person, but — for now — the “magic moment” for me will be in a glass of any of Léoube’s fine rosés! Glad you enjoyed the post and my tour of love songs.

  2542. We must try both Love and your risotto … and perhaps a few new tunes too. Thanks for whetting our appetite!
    Love, Heidi

  2543. Hi. Are there plans for a Provence Rose celebration this year 2020? I’m in the US and am planning a food and Rise wine event. I would like to acknowledge the French. Thanks!

  2544. Sounds wonderful. Wish I’d been there virtually. Even better, it would be nice to be there in person someday.

  2545. Patti Thornton July 5, 2020 at 5:42 pm

    This such a fine description of the extraordinary Chateau Barbebelle Cuvee and the pairing of it with a delicious meal now finds my previously sated self now thirsty and hungry. What did I expect reading this blog? I’m mesmerized by how you strung these words together so perfectly for the moment, for this time, in what may for some time be the new normal ~ “we cannot be together in person and that we must carefully “come together apart.” This so succinctly encapsulates what I hear others saying of their St Patrick, Easter, Mother’s and Father’s Day and graduation celebrations. I look forward to future celebrations with all of you in person or virtually. But now I must head over to Cocoa snd Lavender for this recipe and far more.

    • Thanks, Patti – I could think of no other way to put it than to “come together apart.” I am glad you enjoyed the post – we certainly enjoyed being with one another. Bug hugs – glad you are well!

  2546. PIERRE SCHOTT July 6, 2020 at 3:42 am

    GREAT, FRIENDS !
    MUMU & PIERROT FROM MANOSQUE
    HAUTE-PROVENCE

    • Merci, Pierre! C’était vraiment très amusant.

      Sur un autre sujet, j’aime beaucoup le Mistral Gourmand avec toi at Muriel!

      À bientôt (j’espère) – David

  2547. As soon as I saw your wine choice in C&L I jumped over here to read your review. You sold me, so I jumped to our Systembolaget website to see if it’s available here. Alas, it’s not, but I’ve put in a request for them to bring some in. Hopefully, we’ll have a chance to enjoy a bottle or three of Château Barbebelle Cuvée Madeleine Rosé very soon.

  2548. Please send me prices and photos quotation from your bottles of wine. Thank you. Miranta Grigoriou

    • Dear Miranta,
      Thank you very much for your interest in Alex’s wine. I believe my husband sent you a Direct Message to let you know that, at this point, we are not shipping within Europe. It is available in Lourmarin (see information above). Thank you again. Cheers!

  2549. I am a French mom whose daughter has PANDAS/PANS, and I would love to purchase this wine if it was available in Europe/France? Such a great idea to raise awareness for this condition, which is indeed completely unknown in France.

    • Dear Anne-Marie,
      Please accept my apologies for such a delayed response. In Europe, the wine is available only in Lourmarin in the Department of the Vaucluse. Please see the details above.

      We had planned an awareness event in Lourmarin but have been unable to follow through due to Covid. I would love to hear about the medical care your daughter is receiving and where she is receiving it so that we might work together in the future. Please email me with any information you would like to share. Thank you. Warmest regards, susan@provencewinezine.com

  2550. What a wonderful tribute to your beautiful daughter. Thank you for sharing her story and getting the information out about PANDAS. As a lover of Provence, wine from that region and a collector of Isirdi paintings I would be honored to purchase some of the wine. Please forward me the information to purchase. Thank you again for your dedication to this project for Alex and PANDAS.

    • Dear Traci,
      Thank you for your purchase of “Alex’s wine” and I am very sorry that I didn’t get to meet you when you picked it up! We are very grateful for your support.
      Don’t forget to raise your glasses to Alex and all the others with PANDAS and PANS with the promise to spread the word about these debilitating disorders. Then, please send us a photo of your toast so that I can post it on Alex’s birthday, Sept 7. Please send to: susan@alexmanfullwineproject.org and we will post all photos on the website at http://www.alexmanfullwineproject.org).
      Thank you!

  2551. Patti Thornton July 27, 2020 at 10:10 am

    Every article on this blog is a joy to read. One I look forward to typically on quiet Sunday afternoons. This one was difficult, or was at first and then after rereading, the light came through. Having known Susan for 50+ years I had the opportunities to be a guest in the homes of her parents and her grandparents. I’ve now known Towny for forty and many of my favorite memories include the times I’ve been able to spend with the Manfull family. My family is thankful the times we’ve come to the table with their family here and abroad. There is always conversation, wonderful food, wine and laughter and almost always more friends. This project is one so special because it has come to be in a way that Alex would have been completely absorbed with and proud of every attention to detail. The undertaking epitomizes human resilience and parental resolve to honor their beloved daughter and carry forward her legacy despite the incomprehensible and devasting pain of loss they endure. Treasured memories I hope to never fade came to be at the Manfull table: the clearest and most missed is Alex’s laughter.

    • We are fortunate to have taken full advantage of the richness of life while Alex was here. You and your family always added tremendously to the experience. Yes, treasured memories but missing terribly Alex and that fulsome laugh.

  2552. Patti Thornton July 27, 2020 at 10:32 pm

    Now that I had connectivity other than my phone and could really see the photos I just wanted to add what a tremendous collection of photos from at the table And beyond — over the years, many places with her many friends close to the heart of Alex, her family and her friends. And there in these captures is the laughter I so miss.

  2553. A lovely tribute to Alex! Love, Ellen

  2554. It is so wonderful to see this project come to fruition. And I am honored to have been a part of it along the way… My favorite part? That the image of Alex walking through the streets of Lourmarin is based on the photo I took of her the last time we were together. I look forward to the wine, and writing about it, and being with you both side by side to help people learn about PANDAS.

    • I love the symbolism of Alex’s spirit being many places — her favorite places with her favorite people. You know Alex loved that photo you took! I look forward to hearing how you like the wine, reading what you write about it, and having you by our side, as you have been, helping others learn about PANDAS.

  2555. How do you purchase this? My daughter is a PANS survivor and I would love to share and spread word and host here in PA and help in the initiative. Dawn

    • Good morning Dawn, Please accept my apologies for such a long delay in responding to your lovely comment. I am happy to read that your daughter has survived PANS and that her family would like to help spread the word AND be a host in Pennsylvania!Thank you on all accounts! I have already recorded your name on this wait list. But, for others reading this, please record your name on the link below to be on the wait list. We are expecting more wine soon.
      http://www.alexmanfullwineproject.org/waitlist-for-alexs-wine/

    • Dawn how do I get in touch with you? I’m looking to find guidance on a cure? 937-657-2458

  2556. ON VA SE METTRE EN ROUTE ! POUR ALEX, POUR TOUS LES AUTRES…
    MUMU & PIERROT DE MANOSQUE

    https://www.facebook.com/pierre.schott.927?redirect=false

    • Merci mille fois, Pierre, for helping to spread the word about PANDAS and PANS, also known as Basal Ganglia Encephalitis!

  2557. One factor that limits rosé is that the French generally consider it a wine to be consumed within 12-18 months of its harvest and also to be drunk seasonally, that is, in the summer. I spend each spring in Provence and when I arrive in late February the better wine stores and producers are sold out of the prior year’s rosé, e.g., 2018 as of 2020, and awaiting the new arrival of the new rosé, e.g., 2019. If I ask about a 2018, they ask why would I want to drink that in 2020? Also, they ask why in any event would I want a rosé in February when everyone knows that you drink rosé when the weather gets nicer. So to meet the market the producers are making wines with little aging potential, which limits the price.

    • Richard,
      It is so interesting to read of your typical experience in Provence. It is my experience that people drink it year-round as long as the sun is out! But, I guess that is one way of learning more about the wonderful reds and whites that seldom reach this side of the Atlantic! Thanks very much for your comment!

  2558. I believe without a doubt that Rose` can be a serious wine. While also of course can be very casual, a good rose` really helps to set the mood. Always enjoy your writing and travel photos.

    • Hi Dale,
      Thanks for your nice feedback. You are so right — there is a full range for every mood! What are some of your favorite “good” rosés that set the mood?

  2559. Your articles make me want to drink rose, whether it is a serious wine or not.

  2560. We opened a couple of good rosés recently, didn’t we? Thanks for checking in, Lisa!

  2561. I love the wines from that region. I grew up there. I love the white wines from Saint Peray.
    Sante,
    Farouk

  2562. I find the concept, of discussing whether a wine is serious or not, silly itself. There are a lot of flippantly flowing wines out there in every color. Some reds, whites, and rosés are, assuredly, not serious but maybe the judgment should be on a sliding scale? For me, if a wine pairs well with the food I am eating, it is serious even if, perhaps, I once found it not so.

  2563. For sure rosé is nowadays a serious wine, ranging from rather cheap ones to more expensive high-quality rosés. With no doubt the rosé wines belong to not only to the gastronomy of Provence but also to several other dishes, like more spicy ones.
    But I also I agree with the comment by Bradbury Kuett: ”Rosés do not generally have the bandwidth of complexity that reds and whites do”. For example, if you dine in a simpler restaurant the rosé wine is often a safer choice than a white and a red wine. Up to some 20 – 30 of EUROS (price at the estate) the quality of white, rosé and red wines is often in par, but if you go up in price, say over 30 – 50 EUROS the white and red wines will be more complex, this probably due to the short maceration time. But the rosé quality increase just started some 20 years ago, so probably there will come more and more high-quality rosé wines in the high end!

  2564. Alex loved her parents, cherished the times they spent together at home and traveling in the US and abroad. Lourmarin France was her second home. I’ve known Alex all of her life and her parents long before. From insurmountable grief rose this powerful resolve to spread awareness about PANDAS so no other parent would have to endure a loss as inconceivable, moreover so that no child has to endure what Alex went through with doctor after doctor being treated for symptoms but not the disease itself. Please visit the links in this entry for good information then spread the word PLEASE! You may even know a young person or the family of one that could benefit. And the wine is a way to get the attention of people in order to bring them to the table for a conversation. Raise a glass and help spread awareness to everyone everywhere in honor of Alex. Her parents are an inspiration and constant reminder to me that a parent’s love knows no bounds nor does it ever end.

  2565. WAOUH !

  2566. This is a superb article written about a devastating incident that recently occurred in a bucolic setting known for its beauty, history, and events. Despite the profound losses the folks have suffered and the devastation of their surroundings, this article exudes a warm, caring generosity of humanity taking cate of one another in exemplary ways in the face of disaster. It is similar In ways to the experiences we’ve had in the western US as the wild fires continue, even the whir of helicopters. The excitement of the Tour and boom, life changed in a blink. That seems to be the theme of 2020. You have written from a perspective a perspective that I find most refreshing and admiral balancing shock with hope as you cite the details of that progression. Thank you! I love this blog❣️

  2567. So grateful to read a post on À Table! I have be coveting my bottle of Alex’s wine and have my name on the waitlist for more. When it arrives I look forward to trying David’s yummy-looking tacos and toasting to Alex and to the incredible generous friends who keep her amazing spirit alive.

  2568. Wow—I hardly have words, first on the incredible devastation and then on the tremendous people who have gathered to restore hope. Thank you for this captivating article. I have such love and heartfelt emotions for the people of France.

  2569. When we read fo the flooding in that region, I had no idea that it included where you live, Elizabeth. The devastation is just horrific, but the heart of the region is inspiring. So wonderful to read of the generosity of heart and gifts… Thanks for sharing such a personal and emotional story.

  2570. Chère Susan,

    What a gorgeous image of a very rural scene in mountains of Provence!

    Thank you for this and for the info on PANDAS which I was unaware of.

    I say again how deeply sorry I am for the loss of your beloved daughter, a victim of this insidious disease.

    For the first year since 2001, I was not able to sojourn in ‘La douce France’. Made my reservation in January for 5 weeks, April-May. Mais hélas, all was cancelled in March. No getting on a plane for me this year!

    Hope y’all are staying safe and in good health. Happy fall!

    Amitiés,
    Henry

  2571. Good post. I too believe rose could be the serious wine. It taste good. I love it! Thanks for sharing:)

  2572. Sharing with you, David and Susan. Once again, tonight, I will lift my glass to “Empathy, Decency, and Democracy.” And, as the Mayor of Paris exclaimed, “Welcome back America!”

  2573. Looking forward to a brighter, healthier and more secure America, especially thankful for the support from the leaders of allies around the globe, and may the end of delusion, deceit and disinformation come to pass. Cheers!

  2574. I can’t wait. Look forward to this event!

  2575. This pairing looks delicious. Heading over to Cocoa and Lavender now for the recipe!

  2576. Wonderful article, Susan! Thanks for sharing. I hope to visit Acquiesce when COVID 19 is finally under wraps.HAPPY NEW YEAR!


  2577. “Whether it’s Vin Sobre or Sobre Vin, drink it soberly”, his Lordship the Archbishop of Vaison is said to have remarked in… 1633!
    Cette appellation Vinsobres m’a toujours fait l’impression d’un gag : en français, une personne sobre voulant par-dessus tout dire “n’ayant pas bu d’alcool” ! Tendresses, Pétrus de Manosque

  2578. you have a great site , thank you

  2579. A very interesting and exhaustive article about the Grenache grape that is dominating in my favorite wine district Provence! Thank You.

    One interesting different Grenache blend that I recommend is Roucas from Domaine Hauvette in Les Baux de Provence, Grenache 60%, Syrah 20%, and Cabernet Sauvignon 20%. The alcohol level is only 13% which is very low for a Grenache dominated wine!
    It has a fresh, characteristic nose with cherries, dark raspberries, and spices. Taste of sour red berries, soft tannins, a fresh acidity and with a body less than medium. A light fresh wine with a scent reminiscent of an Italian wine.

  2580. Hi Göran, I am familiar with Dominique Hauvette and the high caliber of their portfolio, informed by organic, biodynamic, and minimal intervention goals. I am not sure that I have had this particular cuvée but I will now keep an eye out for it! I hope someday we can raise a glass together!

  2581. What a beautiful article on the Grenache… I’m so glad to have this grape variety on the Domaine de la Cavalière!! It is an excellent grape variety resistant to global warming in Luberon and Provence.
    Thank you so much Susan and Towny !!
    I hope to see you soon in Lourmarin!!

    • Hello Julien,

      Your interpretation of Grenache — both Noir and Blanc — is fabulous. My mouth is watering as I think about the wines in your portfolio.

      Please set aside another bottle of your “Grenache Blanc Macération oxydative” for me! We hope to be there in the summer. (Fingers crossed!)
      Do you grow any Grenache Gris?
      And, thank you for these nice comments!

  2582. Great Article. I first discovered GSM in Australia (Grant Burge Holy Trinity) which led me to Chateaunuef Du Pape which led me straight to the poor house. Over the years I have become enamored with the California versions of Rhône varietals, particularly from Susan Tipton’s Acquiesce, and Holly’s Hill in El Dorado County. If you have not checked them out, it’s worth a visit

    • Hi Ed,
      Thank you for your nice note! I laughed out loud with your description of arriving in the poor house via CdP!
      I do know Susan Tipton’s exceptional Rhone-style wines — very well — but I do not know Holly’s Hill. I shall check them out! Other small-producers (aka Rhone Rangers) I am smitten with include Kita Wines in Lompoc, Ca and Rune Wines in Sonoita, AZ. Of course, Tablas Creek is a huge favorite!

  2583. This is great information. I’ve tried at least three of the Acquiesce wines and all were unquestionably five star. I will absolutely order more. I’m now equally excited to try Kitá, which I have seen at wine stores. I have made a point to try female winemakers and often find myself blown away by their offerings. I like to serve them at female gatherings and give them as gifts. In fact of my top four favorites two are female, one being Susan Tipton!

    • Hi Heidi,
      This next time we are together, we will have to open a wine from Kitá as Tara Gomez is also an incredibly talented wine maker (male or female!). She is also the winemaker, along with her wife Mireia Taribo, at their own winery, Camins 2 Dreams in the Santa Rita Hills appellation in Santa Barbara County. Actually, both Kitá and Camins 2 Dreams are located in the tiny town of Lompoc, California.
      As you know, Sue Tipton’s outstanding wines are made in Lodi, California where Acquiesce Winery is located.
      Lots of Rhone style wines to taste in California!

  2584. I was just searching for a week of dinner inspiration and oh my, Persian Goat meatballs and a Cote de Rhone just made the list. Now to search for Clos St. Antonin. Thank you, Thanks you, David and Susan.

  2585. How Interesting! I love rosé and am quite familiar with several that you’ve shown above. Excited to try a few new ones, especially the “really gorgeous” 2019s, and the “elegant and fresh” 2020s of my already favorites. Thank you for this informative piece.

    • It is always an interesting time of year in the rosé business. As you know, for the past half-dozen years, I would have attended one or another wine conferences by now. I suppose the advantage is that I can roll right out of bed to a Masterclass!

  2586. Joanne Knight March 2, 2021 at 6:36 am

    Great article Susan. Looking forward to the 2020 vintage but in the meantime I will continue sipping 2019!

  2587. I can’t wait to taste the 2020 vintage — and maybe a few 2019s! Really nice piece – it was worth getting up so early to join the tasting! (And, for the sake of science, I think you should have tasted. When they say, “It’s 5:00 somewhere!” they never said AM or PM, did they?)

  2588. I laughed out loud — Jimmy Buffet would surely agree!
    Yes, lots of tastings to do — let’s line them up, in the name of science and wine and food, of course!

  2589. Susan,
    What a fabulous article! Thank you for bringing back enthusiasm about Rosé and your optimism is so refreshing!

    Love the drawings too!

  2590. Susan Manfull March 8, 2021 at 5:45 pm

    Patty, Thank you for those kind words. I think there was a sudden jolt of enthusiasm felt by many fans of Rosé — and, of course, wine in general (and spirits, cheese,olives, and other European goodies)!
    Thank you for your input, too!

    • Susan, You’re an incredible woman! Strong, intelligent, incredibly resilient and a sweet, dear friend!

      Looking forward to raising a glass to our friendship!

      Xox
      Patty

      • And, vice-versa! I am so glad that you and Eric will come to our Rosé and food pairing dinner at Stonewall Kitchen. (Fingers crossed COVID will cooperate!

  2591. Really wonderful article, Susan. I have a much better appreciation for the grape(s) and the resulting wines. I’m looking forward to trying more Grenache Gris!

  2592. Hi David,
    Who knew Grenache could do so much! Maybe our friend Sue Tipton of Acquiesce Winery will plant some Grenache Gris! Hmmm

  2593. As much as we delight in the wonder of Mother Nature, she wields the power and this time it was a crushing blow to this iconic wine region. It has been the area most visited in my small number of travels abroad. Fabulous weather, giant sunflowers coninusll turning their faces to the sun, the heady fragrance of lavender wafting on a warm breeze, delicious food, stunning scenes, fragrant herbs, vibrant people and countless opportunities to share memorable conversations accompanied by stunning wine that has come to incorporate all the things I’ve mentioned into spectacular wines you can hold in your glass by the stem as one swirls images and memories of all the above can be recalled slowly with each savored sip.

  2594. Just when we thought better days were around the corner. My heart goes out to all our hard working and hard hit producers. Thanks for the article Susan.

  2595. Keep them all in your heart….it’s the next corner, I’m sure! Thanks for the note!

  2596. What a detailed technical account of a sad situation. I remember visiting the Rhone in the Spring ih the apple trees in bloom and will read with interest your blogpost on that region.

    • Thanks, Lisa. I just read that the President of the National Association of apples and pears said that stone fruits like peaches, nectarines, and apricots will be “rare” on the shelves this year. 🙁

  2597. Thanks for the reminder re. supporting our friends in the southern Rhone. We’ll happily oblige.
    h
    PS the meal looks amazing.

  2598. Love Grenache! Added some wines on my list to try! Thank you for your review. Keep up the informative pieces. As a somm, I am always up for reading more. If you ever make it out to Sonoma CA, look me and my Jeep wine touring business up – would love to host you! https://www.vinesofsonoma.com

  2599. Great article, Susan. Very interesting and educational. We were among those boosting the sales of Whispering Angel!

  2600. C’est Extraordinaire! Great to read that Provence and rosé are experiencing growth. A few days ago I enjoyed a bottle of Whispering Angel in front of an Isardi painting of Cafe Gaby. It was so delightful I repeated the experience with two additional bottles of Provence rosé Sunday and last night. Glad to read you will soon return; please sip one glass for me!

  2601. SCHOTT PIERRE May 25, 2021 at 9:17 am

  2602. Wonderful article, Susan! Very nice (and encouraging) to read this good news, and I am looking forward to the 2020 rosés though, as you said, the 2019s were quite wonderful!

  2603. Susan, we are a small producer in Russian River Valley ( in fact next door to a farm by the same owners). How could we arrange to visit DOMAINE DE LA CAVALIÈRE? Thanks so much!

  2604. Andrew Cheese July 6, 2021 at 1:30 am

    “Still, some winemakers felt that Gabay and Bernheim had not understood their wine”. I am sorry but wine is for drinking and enjoying not “understanding”. The winemakers should understand that there will be people, and there can be lots, that just don’t like their wine.

  2605. Interesting. My husband and I were married in Crete and had incredible local food and wine including lamb. Later, a few years ago, we volunteered in Lesvos to help refugees arriving quite dangerously in large numbers in very small rubber/plastic unsafe rafts. At the time there was no good wine that we could find. This pairing makes me want to return to the flavors I remember from Crete and sharing it with the amazing people. I will certainly check on the Urban wine store”s bottle and search for your lam – YUMM!

    • Heidi, I never knew you were married in Crete — what a lovely way to begin your adventure! You will find a very nice variety of Greek wines on the Urban Wine Club’s site, The Xinomavro is just one. It might be worth a drive down to the Cork Stop to browse — it’s not a far drive for you. And I just noticed it’s your birthday — enjoy your day!

  2606. 1,000 wines in 10 days, oh my! I am buying myself this book for my own birthday present and hopefully some of the recommended wines too! I am anxious to see how some of my favorites are ranked.

  2607. Loved your recipe and plan to try it in Tangier. Will have to wait until I leave Morocco to pair it with a French wine. I plan to use Volubilis vin gris, from the Moroccan region where the Romans had a colony. By the way, garum was made at Lixus, in Northern Morocco. The garum factory has just been restored and is worth visiting if you pass by Larache, in Northern Morocco.

    • Lisa — this chicken is divine… and so different from any and everything else! Hope you can try it! Maybe with local garum!? And perhaps eventually with a nice Provence rosé.

  2608. This is so fascinating! I sometimes envy Liz and other times wonder how she does it. No one has tasted more rosé that this team and the book is such a resource. Thanks for sharing Susan!

  2609. Occasionally I miss a Provence Wine Zine article so I’m certainly delighted to have come across this beauty! Delightfully written so much so that I’m ready to drive south to this beautiful region in Southern California for a visit. This journey like many of the Native American stories I read brought happiness for this couple who pursued the path to their dreams and have met success and recognition in their joint undertaking. Bravo!

  2610. David, the gratin sounds incredible. I can think of many wines that would pair beautifully with that dish but will start with a Vermentino AKA Agostenga, Brustiano, Carbes, Carbesso, Favorita, Formentino, Garbesso, Grosse Clarette, Malvasia Grossa, Piccabon, Pigata, Rossese, Sibirkovski, Uva Sapaiola, Valentin, Varresana bianca, and Verlantin!

  2611. Great article David, thanks for the details. The food matching is so very useful!

  2612. AH, LE CALADOC ! ON EN PRODUISAIT, CHEZ AURETO : EXCELLENT CÉPAGE !
    TENDRESSES DE MANOSQUE… MUMU & PIERROT

  2613. Heartfelt thanks for bringing this event to us in such exquisite detail. I have three of Isardi’s prints framed and hanging on the wall and one bottle of Barbebelle left after my last visit to the Chateau. This event and the honoring of our dear Alex brings a new depth of meaning to them all and new hope for Pans/Pandas.

  2614. Hey David, I was born in 1958 too! Looking forward to your next wine and food pairing!

  2615. We were honored to be your dinner guests and help celebrate such a fabulous food-and-wine combination. It was a wonderful get-together, and gave us the best “welcome back to Tucson” we’ve ever enjoyed. Many thanks!

  2616. Notre bon David,

    Le bonheur est souvent dans le partage !

    Soleilleuse pensée de Provence,
    Mumu & Pétrus

    • Il n’y a rien de mieux qu’un repas préparé par nos amis de Tucson et des vins de Vacqueyras. Nous aimerions que vous et Muriel soyez là pour nous rejoindre !

  2617. Happy New Year to you both. May 2022 deliver joy, laughter, good wine and great friends.

    • Susan – Just getting around to reading this. Sorry for the delay! I can so empathize with your exhaustion and your feeling of being on the brink of despair. This past month of gun violence adds to it all. I’m trying to listen to my body: nap when I feel like napping, eat simply when I don’t feel like cooking, and watch Stephen Colbert when I don’t have the energy to read. I don’t worry that it will turn into permanent apathy because it never does. Just trust in yourself, and you will get some of your mojo back. I’m guessing by now (five months after you wrote this) that has already happened. Hang in there my friend. These are not quite the golden years we imagined — but maybe we Boomers were the only generation to have that illusion anyway!! xoxo

  2618. Carolyne, Thank you and the happiest of New Years to you, too! Those are the ingredients of a wonderful year!

  2619. Time is said to stretch on forever yet we humans are often reminded as we lose our loved ones, that it does not. From my observations and personal experience, many do not recover. Instead, in time they adapt. I marvel at some of the results of adaptation. Faith, strength, creativity, determination and love seem to intertwine and a different course is charted. Often for good and often for others.

  2620. Kathy Marcellino January 5, 2022 at 10:50 pm

    Isn’t it grand when there isn’t wrong answer!

  2621. SOUVENIRS, SOUVENIRS…

    SOLEILLEUSE PENSÉE,
    MUMU & PIERROT

  2622. BIEN CHERS TOUS DEUX,
    AVEZ-VOUS LES DATES DE VOTRE SÉJOUR EN PROVENCE ?
    TENDRESSES DE NOUS,
    MUMU & PIERROT

  2623. Such a divine recipe for friendship – food, appreciation, clarity, wine, interests, sharing of opinions ?❣️? and zoom, of course

  2624. That sounds like such an interesting dish David! And the wine sounds superb. I would think an excellent match!

    • Thanks, Neil! The flavors work so well with the pork, this Vacqueyras was great. I imagine any Vacqueyras would pair well if you can’t find this one. Thanks so much for your kind comment.

    • I concur with David, Neil,and will add that you should go visit Clos de Caveau when you return!

      • Well, I will look them up for sure! I will be in France for Decouvertes en Vallee du Rhone and also the week before in Aix en Provence. Researching contacts for my forthcoming book of wine stories. Maybe you will be there then too??? I will message you shortly when I can confirm exact dates.

  2625. Hey,I am Sophia William homework helper at The Student Helpline. I read your blog and find it very interesting and informative. I’m definitely gonna share it with my friends. Keep sharing blogs like this.

  2626. Excellent article – thanks Susan! Best wishes from Nice.

  2627. It was nice to read your blog. Are you in need of professional assignment helpers? Well! You have reached the right place at My Case Study Help .Com where you receive a one-stop solution. We offer one of the finest MBA Assignment Help for students’ benefit. We have more than 5000 professional Case Study Writer experts to support students in doing their university projects. We provide assured quality and credibility. That’s why a majority of students trust our Assignment Help.

  2628. Susan Manfull June 4, 2022 at 7:59 pm

    We tasted this wine in April at the Chateau and liked it very much then but now, six weeks later, it is really coming into its own with lovely fruit and traces of minerality. It is well balanced, as David wrote, and has a nice weight that enhances the pleasure with food (although I would gladly drink it alone!). David’s halibut was such a perfect match, too. I think the smidgen of Piment d’Espelette contributed to making the wine and food seem like old friends.

    • I always feel very lucky when a pairing works so well! (As you know, it’s not always the case…) But that is the fun of this gig, right? It’s taught me a lot about food and wine pairing, and I am grateful to you for your tutelage!

  2629. The dish looks wonderful and a good excuse to buy one of my favorite rosés from Ch. Marguï! Cauliflower is a tough pairing but I wonder if the tomato is what made the magic happen. I can’t wait to give this a try! Thanks for sharing!

    • Thanks, Brenda! I don’t know what created the magic but it was just perfect. Maybe the tomato and goat cheese together tamed the beast? Or perhaps it was the roasting that sweetened it. Whatever the case, I know you will love it. Susan and Towny sure did!

  2630. You are a culinary magician in my eyes. Your enthusiasm for this pairing is contagious. I cannot wait to this. And the color of that rosé, oh yes, that is a color for my Zen palette❣️Thank you David. You and the Manfulls tend to take dining out off the table with your tremendous recommendations that always turn out, the lesser complicated become my go-tos!

    • Oh, OPatti – you do my heart good! 🙂 I really can’t recommend this enough. Susan and Towny made it last evening and they just loved it and the pairing. I hope you do, as well. You know, I really don’t enjoy dining out as much anymore – so noisy and too much of a production. At home, with good food, wine, and company, is where I like to be!

  2631. And the Tipton’s of Acquiesce fame! Oh my gosh so many of their recipes are also incorporated into my rep to impress!

  2632. Wow – so much to get out of this book! I am so glad to hear they have discussed the range of colors of rosé. I was shopping for some rosé with a friend evenly and saw a bottle from the Veneto (which amused me, but I could find no information on the cépages, so didn’t buy it) but my friend remarked that it wasn’t a rosé — he could not believe a rosé could be that pale – paler than a Chardonnay and only slightly tinted to pink.

    Ooh. And the aging of rosë wines — so important to being that to the forefront. And I think the maps will be really useful for me, as someone who writes about rosé quite often — it can get so confusing.

    I can’t wait to get a copy — thanks for a wonderful review, Susan!

  2633. Wow! What a fabulous review Susan. Now I find myself at 5:00 a.m. – thirsty. For rosé. From southern regions of France.
    What a treasure trove for rosé aficionados and those who may now be interested in enthusiastically pursuing that path with informed knowledge.

  2634. Celsus John Leon August 18, 2022 at 11:33 pm

    Hi Susan, greetings from St. Lucia! I started reading this piece and just had to pause to comment. I had the pleasure of working for Sacha when he owned a wine retail business called Caribbean Chateau, in St. Lucia. I employed as Financial Controller. Best boss ever – Sacha and to date, Caribbean Chateau remains my best place of employment, all because of Sacha. Dinner would must have been awesome, that’s dinner with Sacha! Do say hello for me, the next time you dine with the “one and only” master. Regards Celsus

  2635. Looks like a delicious pairing! I need to make that lovely dish! Thank you and Happy Labor Day!

  2636. I just found 2 sealed bottles VIEUX MARC DE JEAN LOUIS on the bottom it reads Jean Louis Palaz dated 1974 I BELIEVE its this type of liquor. Do you know anything about it?

  2637. It all sounds delightful and delicious. Just book me an air ticket now.

  2638. You make me want to get up and walk over to the storage room to grab a bottle. Going to have to make this recipe. Yum! Thank you so much, Susan! – Jon

  2639. David, I had to come over to visit this web page. A good French wine should never be drank without a good meal. Your post is proof.

    I don’t have any embarrassing stories about a Somm experience but, I have a passion for wine and love everything it offers to the food and the experience.

    Velva

    • Thanks for stopping by, Velva —until we connected on Instagram, I was not aware how serious/passionate you are about wine! This is a good site for you to know!

      I am hoping some good Somm stories emerge from this!

  2640. Our conversation was so much fun — and it really makes me want to get a cassoulet in the oven soon. Thanks for allowing me to take part in this.

  2641. What a delight! As a memoirist and a lover of cassoulet, I was intrigued by this post. I just tried one of the recipes—and WOW! It was so yummy and flavorful. I will certainly check out this gifted writer and chef.

  2642. I have tasted Cassoulet many times, mostly in France or (out of a can) in French speaking countries in the South Pacific, and I have always enjoyed it … to the extent that I want to try making it myself. The excitement and resources include here will definitely get me jump-started. Thank you, Susan and Towny … and Sylvie!

  2643. Hi Dennis, You are such a talented cook yourself that I can’t wait to see (and taste!) what you come up with!

  2644. Patricia Allen Lornell February 5, 2023 at 2:43 pm

    David, the salmon looks amazing! I love Rolle! That deliciousness could be our Valentines dinner!!

  2645. What an amazing pairing. I must find the ingredients locally and try it. I was going to start my spring diet but will delay a bit.

  2646. Elizabeth Meyer May 13, 2023 at 11:03 am

    Thank you for such a beautiful description of your tastings. We are planning a trip to Northern Rhône and your article was very helpful.

  2647. I don’t drink and couldn’t begin to appreciate what you’re sharing—but I did read Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence (1989), and they savored marc with practically every meal. I just shared that story with dear friends whom we just bumped into at a restaurant, and found this article while trying to explain a wine that they’d never heard of. Such an interesting read! Thank you, JRF

  2648. Absolutely loved the history of this winery!

  2649. All I have on hand is a Lafage Miraflores but I plan to try it tonight with your fish tacos. I will look for AIX in DC.

  2650. I’m sure that’s delicious – I’m very fond of rosé and Spanish rosado.

    • Mad Dog — we enjoyed many a bottle of rosado when we were in Spain a year ago — perfect for some of the hot weather we had. On another note, I am getting a wine shop with six bottles of Spanish Garnacha in a week or so — very excited. Thanks for visiting and commenting!

  2651. This is a nice pairing. The rose has enough complexity to stand on its own without competing with arroz con pollo. The nuance of briny from the olives and the acidity of the tomatoes works well.

    Velva

    • Thank you so much, Velva. I’m very pleased that you like the pairing, considering how knowledgeable you are on the subject! I wish I had half of your knowledge. I just know what I like when combining food and wine. It’s really nice that you could put it into words so beautifully.

  2652. A beautiful, beautiful French Rosé to go with an equally beautiful dish.

    Velva

  2653. I’ve never popped over here and I apologize. I’m a serious wine drinker, which means I drink a lot! Actually what I enjoy is limited – typically only whites, rosé and bubbly. The problem is where I live. You could give me a list of your favorite wines and there won’t be one that I can get in the town where I live. The liquor stores are limited on distributors and they’re limited on wines. Do you happen to have a favorite rosé from Provence? Maybe I can order it online. Actually, I’ll check out this blog and see what you say about them!

    • Hi Mimi — thanks for coming over to check it out. For starters, do you have any National wine stores there like Total Wine or BevMo? One excellent rosé that is pretty much available nationwide is Château d’Esclan’s Whispering Angel. They have higher levels of rosé but I can’t get them here, either. Another thought — send me a photo of your rosé selection and I can see what you have. It is hard here, too, but with Total Wine and BevMo I have some choice. Believe it or not, our Trader Joe carries some very good rosés — can you but why at TJ’s im Oklahoma?

  2654. My first encounter with marc was after dinner with some locals in Burgundy. It was apparently made with pears not grapes, and was wonderful. They said it was made from the leaving of the fruit, and by law householders were no longer allowed to make it themselves, but could give it to a sort of traveling distiller who (for a price) would make marc out of their leavings and sell it back to them. I doubt this was aged 10 years! The only other time was at a cafe in Paris, and I don’t know the provenance. In any case, memorable.

  2655. It is magical when you find a unicorn pairing of a dish and a wine. This indigenous French grape is scarcely planted. Wow, wow. You are darn right, it would be almost impossible to find this wine in the U.S.. What a special treat.

    Ridge wines are always consistently good. I’ve never been disappointed.

    Cheers to good friends, a great meal and extraordinary wine. I can’t think of a better combination.

    Velva

    • It amazed me to learn that only 0.15% of the grapes grown in the appellation are Vaccarese. Sad, because the flavor is wonderful. I wish you could have been with us for the tasting.

      Ridge wines are solid — and they are easy for pairing.

      I hope someday you can meet Susan and Towny. Your mutual love of food and wine will make for great conversation.

  2656. Will have to look for that lychee potion a TW The dish looks beautiful and délicieuse

    • It sounds like you’re in France, Jocelyne, and I imagine it would be fairly easy to find a sweetened lychee syrup there. It may not be the same one I used, but I’m sure it would work really well. I hope you have the opportunity to make it, and have it with a nice rosé.

  2657. In October 2023, our guide Jamie Ivey brought us to your farm for a most memorable lunch.The weather was perfect and the views created a quiet joyfulness. The food was Devine and served with grace. I shall always remember this day and your gracious hospitality.
    Rochelle Luks

  2658. I’m sure I’d enjoy that – I drink a glass of Monastrell with supper, most evenings!

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  66. LOURMARIN HAS A NEW FARMERS’ MARKET ON TUESDAY EVENINGS - The Modern Trobadors
  67. 10 MARKETS IN PROVENCE: PLAN TO SPEND THE DAY AT L’ISLE-SUR-LA-SORGUE - The Modern Trobadors
  68. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - The Modern Trobadors
  69. LE CHÂTEAU DE LOURMARIN TO HOST RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL IN APRIL - The Modern Trobadors
  70. SACHA LICHINE TALKS ABOUT MAKING ROSÉ IN PROVENCE AND WE TASTE HIS WINES…including the just released 2013 Whispering Angel - The Modern Trobadors
  71. NORTH AFRICAN COUSCOUS, PROVENCE ROSÉ, AND RHONE RED: A COSMOPOLITAN COMBINATION THAT WARMS BOTH BODY AND SOUL - The Modern Trobadors
  72. UPDATE: ANSWERS FROM MARC PERRIN ABOUT "THE CURIOUS CASE OF MIRAVAL’S GRAPES" - The Modern Trobadors
  73. LE CASTELLAS ENCORE: IT’S ALWAYS A WILD EXPERIENCE AT LA FERME DE CHÈVRE IN SIVERGUES - The Modern Trobadors
  74. 20 FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN AND AROUND LOURMARIN - The Modern Trobadors
  75. NO ENCORE FOR FRANCE’S PLEYEL PIANO - The Modern Trobadors
  76. LAVENDER FIELDS FOREVER? NOT IF THE CICADELLE HAS ITS WAY - The Modern Trobadors
  77. PROVENCE’S LES TREIZE DESSERTS: NOT JUST ANOTHER ARTICLE ABOUT THOSE 13 DESSERTS - The Modern Trobadors
  78. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - The Modern Trobadors
  79. CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS’ GARRUS ROSÉ BEDAZZLES - The Modern Trobadors
  80. WHILE WAITING FOR PROVENCE'S LAVENDER SEASON, ENJOY THOSE GORGEOUS POPPIES! - The Modern Trobadors
  81. THE LIKES OF LEONARDO DA VINCI, RAPHAËL, AND MICHELANGELO ARE HEADING TO THE CARRIÈRES DE LUMIÈRES - The Modern Trobadors
  82. AUGUST IN PROVENCE: TOO HOT AND CROWDED? - The Modern Trobadors
  83. LE PONT JULIEN: ANOTHER ROMAN BRIDGE TO ADMIRE - The Modern Trobadors
  84. LONGING FOR BLACK TRUFFLES, CONSOLED BY FRAGRANT MEMORIES AND PATRICIA WELLS’ "SIMPLY TRUFFLES" - The Modern Trobadors
  85. ÉDITH PIAF DIED 50 YEARS AGO BUT HER ICONIC SONGS LIVE ON - The Modern Trobadors
  86. LE CHÂTEAU DE LOURMARIN TO HOST RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL IN APRIL - The Modern Trobadors
  87. FRENCH POSTCARDS FROM THE PAST: BEYOND PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  88. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - The Modern Trobadors
  89. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - The Modern Trobadors
  90. 20 FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN AND AROUND LOURMARIN - The Modern Trobadors
  91. LOOKING FOR WINE IN THE LUBERON - The Modern Trobadors
  92. TEN GENDARMES IN THE MARKET OF A TINY VILLAGE IN PROVENCE IN JANUARY? MAIS OUI, IT’S TRUFFLE SEASON! - The Modern Trobadors
  93. THINGS TO KNOW IN PROVENCE: WHAT IS L’APÉRO? - The Modern Trobadors
  94. "WHERE TO GO IN 2013?" THE NEW YORK TIMES LISTS MARSEILLE AS # 2 DESTINATION - The Modern Trobadors
  95. WHILE WAITING FOR PROVENCE'S LAVENDER SEASON, ENJOY THOSE GORGEOUS POPPIES! - The Modern Trobadors
  96. WHILE WAITING FOR PROVENCE'S LAVENDER SEASON, ENJOY THOSE GORGEOUS POPPIES! - The Modern Trobadors
  97. LA TOUR-D’AIGUES’ MARKET: A SMALL MARKET WITH A BIG BACKDROP - The Modern Trobadors
  98. 20 FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN AND AROUND LOURMARIN - The Modern Trobadors
  99. VAN GOGH’S LAST YEAR IN PROVENCE: REFUGE IN AN ASYLUM, STARRY NIGHTS, FIELDS OF WHEAT, AND IRISES - The Modern Trobadors
  100. LONGING FOR BLACK TRUFFLES, CONSOLED BY FRAGRANT MEMORIES AND PATRICIA WELLS’ "SIMPLY TRUFFLES" - The Modern Trobadors
  101. LE QUARTORZE JUILLET: CELEBRATING BASTILLE DAY - The Modern Trobadors
  102. LE QUARTORZE JUILLET: CELEBRATING BASTILLE DAY - The Modern Trobadors
  103. LONGING FOR BLACK TRUFFLES, CONSOLED BY FRAGRANT MEMORIES AND PATRICIA WELLS’ "SIMPLY TRUFFLES" - The Modern Trobadors
  104. NEW SHOW AT CARRIERES DE LUMIERES: BE ENVELOPED BY THE MUSIC, MOVEMENT, GLITTER, AND BRIGHT COLORS OF ARTIST GUSTAV KLIMT - The Modern Trobadors
  105. FIGS IN PROVENCE: A CAUSE FOR SLEUTHING, CELEBRATION, AND A LINGERIE SHOW - The Modern Trobadors
  106. THINGS TO KNOW IN PROVENCE: WHAT IS L’APÉRO? - The Modern Trobadors
  107. PRESIDENT HOLLANDE REINFORCES FRENCH CONNECTION TO AFRICA WHILE, HERE IN NEW HAMPSHIRE, ANOTHER CONNECTION TO AFRICA TAKES PLACE - The Modern Trobadors
  108. A CUP OF TEA FROM PALAIS DES THÉS - The Modern Trobadors
  109. LA TOUR-D’AIGUES’ MARKET: A SMALL MARKET WITH A BIG BACKDROP - The Modern Trobadors
  110. THERE'S MORE THAN ONE D-DAY - The Modern Trobadors
  111. SACHA LICHINE TALKS ABOUT MAKING ROSÉ IN PROVENCE AND WE TASTE HIS WINES…including the just released 2013 Whispering Angel - The Modern Trobadors
  112. NORTH AFRICAN COUSCOUS, PROVENCE ROSÉ, AND RHONE RED: A COSMOPOLITAN COMBINATION THAT WARMS BOTH BODY AND SOUL - The Modern Trobadors
  113. A CUP OF TEA FROM PALAIS DES THÉS - The Modern Trobadors
  114. AIGUES-MORTES: SEA SALT & SEE SALT - The Modern Trobadors
  115. NEW SHOW AT CARRIERES DE LUMIERES: BE ENVELOPED BY THE MUSIC, MOVEMENT, GLITTER, AND BRIGHT COLORS OF ARTIST GUSTAV KLIMT - The Modern Trobadors
  116. PÉTANQUE GOES WELL WITH PASTIS - The Modern Trobadors
  117. RACLETTE: THE BEST MEAL YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF - The Modern Trobadors
  118. NORTH AFRICAN COUSCOUS, PROVENCE ROSÉ, AND RHONE RED: A COSMOPOLITAN COMBINATION THAT WARMS BOTH BODY AND SOUL - The Modern Trobadors
  119. 10 MARKETS IN PROVENCE: LITTLE CUCURON IS ONE OF OUR VERY FAVORITES! - The Modern Trobadors
  120. THE KERFUFFLE ABOUT SAYING ‘BON APPÉTIT' - The Modern Trobadors
  121. LOURMARIN HAS A NEW FARMERS’ MARKET ON TUESDAY EVENINGS - The Modern Trobadors
  122. PATRICIA WELLS IN MY KITCHEN - The Modern Trobadors
  123. TUESDAYS IN PROVENCE : OH THE STRESS OF WHICH MARKET TO VISIT - The Modern Trobadors
  124. NEW SHOW AT CARRIERES DE LUMIERES: BE ENVELOPED BY THE MUSIC, MOVEMENT, GLITTER, AND BRIGHT COLORS OF ARTIST GUSTAV KLIMT - The Modern Trobadors
  125. THE CURIOUS CASE OF MIRAVAL’S GRAPES - The Modern Trobadors
  126. 30 ROSÉ WINES TO TASTE: PROVENCE COMES TO NEW YORK CITY - The Modern Trobadors
  127. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - The Modern Trobadors
  128. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - The Modern Trobadors
  129. SACHA LICHINE TALKS ABOUT MAKING ROSÉ IN PROVENCE AND WE TASTE HIS WINES…including the just released 2013 Whispering Angel - The Modern Trobadors
  130. PAQUES EN PROVENCE: CHOCOLATE FISH, FLYING CHURCH BELLS, BULLFIGHTS, LAMB, AND OMELETS - The Modern Trobadors
  131. DOMAINE DES VAUDOIS: WINE, OLIVE OIL, AND A LOT OF HISTORY - The Modern Trobadors
  132. CALISSONS, CROQUETTES, BEAUMES DE VENISE, AND TEA FROM PALAIS DES THÉS: THESE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVORITE THINGS IN PROVENCE AT CHRISTMAS - The Modern Trobadors
  133. DOMAINE DES VAUDOIS: WINE, OLIVE OIL, AND A LOT OF HISTORY - The Modern Trobadors
  134. SUMMER IN PROVENCE…AND A SURFEIT OF TRUFFLES? - The Modern Trobadors
  135. THE STEINS COLLECT: AN EXHIBITION OF MATISSE, PICASSO, AND CEZANNE - The Modern Trobadors
  136. SUMMER IN PROVENCE…AND A SURFEIT OF TRUFFLES? - The Modern Trobadors
  137. NO NEED TO GO TO PARIS ANY MORE—I’VE LEARNED TO MAKE MACARONS! - The Modern Trobadors
  138. TWO BOTTLES OF ROSÉ FROM PROVENCE’S CHÂTEAU PIGOUDET: ONE FOR THANKSGIVING AND THE OTHER FOR LEFTOVERS (MY FAVORITE MEAL!) - The Modern Trobadors
  139. LA TOUR-D’AIGUES’ MARKET: A SMALL MARKET WITH A BIG BACKDROP - The Modern Trobadors
  140. LE PONT JULIEN: ANOTHER ROMAN BRIDGE TO ADMIRE - The Modern Trobadors
  141. FRANCE’S FABLED FOREIGN LEGION DEPLOYED TO MALI FROM PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  142. OUR FORAY INTO PROVENCE REAL ESTATE CONTINUES WITH A SHEEPFOLD, A PARKING SPACE, A COURTYARD, AND A CAVE - The Modern Trobadors
  143. WITH LAVENDER, ROSEMARY, AN OLD 2CV, AND A BIG HEART, L'OCCITANE EN PROVENCE WAS BORN - The Modern Trobadors
  144. 30 ROSÉ WINES TO TASTE: PROVENCE COMES TO NEW YORK CITY - The Modern Trobadors
  145. LE QUARTORZE JUILLET: CELEBRATING BASTILLE DAY - The Modern Trobadors
  146. THE CURIOUS CASE OF MIRAVAL’S GRAPES - The Modern Trobadors
  147. BOUILLABAISSE, ROSÉ, AND RECIPES FOR THE ART OF LIVING IN PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  148. JOËL DURAND SENDS US CHOCOLATES - The Modern Trobadors
  149. THE STEINS COLLECT: AN EXHIBITION OF MATISSE, PICASSO, AND CEZANNE - The Modern Trobadors
  150. THE LIKES OF LEONARDO DA VINCI, RAPHAËL, AND MICHELANGELO ARE HEADING TO THE CARRIÈRES DE LUMIÈRES - The Modern Trobadors
  151. THE MUSÉE EXTRAORDINAIRE CELEBRATES ITS 40TH ANNIVERSARY - The Modern Trobadors
  152. CHÂTEAU LA COSTE: THERE’S SOMETHING FOR ALL AGES - The Modern Trobadors
  153. NEW SHOW AT CARRIERES DE LUMIERES: BE ENVELOPED BY THE MUSIC, MOVEMENT, GLITTER, AND BRIGHT COLORS OF ARTIST GUSTAV KLIMT - The Modern Trobadors
  154. “VAN GOGH UP CLOSE” AT THE PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART: AN EXAMINATION OF LANDSCAPES FROM PROVENCE AND AUVERS AND A FEW STILL LIFES FROM PARIS, TOO - The Modern Trobadors
  155. ANOTHER REASON TO VISIT SAINT-TROPEZ IN OCTOBER: LES VOILES DE SAINT-TROPEZ - The Modern Trobadors
  156. VAN GOGH’S LAST YEAR IN PROVENCE: REFUGE IN AN ASYLUM, STARRY NIGHTS, FIELDS OF WHEAT, AND IRISES - The Modern Trobadors
  157. A CHILLED PIERREVERT ROSÉ FOR A CHILLY VALENTINE’S DAY - The Modern Trobadors
  158. LOOKING FOR WINE IN THE LUBERON - The Modern Trobadors
  159. LE CASTELLAS ENCORE: IT’S ALWAYS A WILD EXPERIENCE AT LA FERME DE CHÈVRE IN SIVERGUES - The Modern Trobadors
  160. YES, VIRGINIA, THERE ARE THIEVES IN PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  161. CLOS DE L’OURS: A CONVERSATION WITH CO-OWNER MICHEL BROTONS - Provence WineZine
  162. CLOS DE L’OURS: A CONVERSATION WITH CO-OWNER MICHEL BROTONS - Provence WineZine
  163. LA TOUR-D’AIGUES’ MARKET: A SMALL MARKET WITH A BIG BACKDROP - The Modern Trobadors
  164. PROVENCE CHRISTMAS MARKETS: LOURMARIN’S MARCHÉ DE NOËL IS DELIGHTFUL - The Modern Trobadors
  165. Maision M. Chapoutier Buys Château des Ferrages in Provence – L'occasion
  166. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food It's a Family Affair - Provence WineZine
  167. TEN GENDARMES IN THE MARKET OF A TINY VILLAGE IN PROVENCE IN JANUARY? MAIS OUI, IT’S TRUFFLE SEASON! - The Modern Trobadors
  168. NORTH AFRICAN COUSCOUS, PROVENCE ROSÉ, AND RHONE RED: A COSMOPOLITAN COMBINATION THAT WARMS BOTH BODY AND SOUL - The Modern Trobadors
  169. UPDATE: ANSWERS FROM MARC PERRIN ABOUT "THE CURIOUS CASE OF MIRAVAL’S GRAPES" - Provence WineZine
  170. PROVENCE IN THE CITY: MY GLASS RUNNETH OVER WITH ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  171. PROVENCE IN THE CITY: MY GLASS RUNNETH OVER WITH ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  172. PROVENCE IN THE CITY: MY GLASS RUNNETH OVER WITH ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  173. PROVENCE IN THE CITY: MY GLASS RUNNETH OVER WITH ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  174. PROVENCE IN THE CITY: MY GLASS RUNNETH OVER WITH ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  175. PROVENCE IN THE CITY: MY GLASS RUNNETH OVER WITH ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  176. Provence in the City: Simply Provence Wines – L'occasion
  177. Musings of a Wine MavenFRANCE WINS THE PLONK TROPHY WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM THE CAVES COOPÉRATIVES - Provence WineZine
  178. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  179. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  180. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  181. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  182. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  183. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  184. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  185. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  186. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  187. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  188. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  189. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  190. MAPPING THE MARKETS OF PETER MAYLE’S PROVENCE - The Modern Trobadors
  191. ESCAPE THE GLITZ OF CANNES WITH A VISIT TO ÎLE SAINT HONORAT - The Modern Trobadors
  192. Provence WineZine: Vins de Provence Annual Competition – L'occasion
  193. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food A Little Something from the Riviera - Provence WineZine
  194. ROMAINE OTT BLAZES NEW PATHS IN CHÂTEAU LÉOUBE VINEYARDS: IS THAT CAB FRANC GROWING IN PROVENCE? - Provence WineZine
  195. Domaine des Terre Blanches {Profile} – L'occasion
  196. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food Versatility - Provence WineZine
  197. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food Versatility - Provence WineZine
  198. CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE: "THE" RED IN PROVENCE BEFORE TRÉVALLON CAME ALONG - Provence WineZine
  199. CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE: "THE" RED IN PROVENCE BEFORE TRÉVALLON CAME ALONG...IS BACK! - Provence WineZine
  200. Coteaux Varois en Provence sponsors Salon du Millésime 2015 - Provence WineZine
  201. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food And the Oscar Goes To... - Provence WineZine
  202. DOMAINE SAINT ANDRIEU IS WELL WORTH THE DRIVE UP THE HILL - Provence WineZine
  203. DOMAINE SAINT ANDRIEU IS WELL WORTH THE DRIVE UP THE HILL - Provence WineZine
  204. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food And the Oscar Goes To... - Provence WineZine
  205. THE STORY OF RÉGINE SUMEIRE’S “PÉTALE DE ROSE” ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  206. THE STORY OF RÉGINE SUMEIRE’S “PÉTALE DE ROSE” ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  207. Catching Up with Stephen Cronk, Owner of Mirabeau-en-Provence - Provence WineZine
  208. ViniSud 2017 Masterclass: Rosé Diversity in Ten Glasses - Provence WineZine
  209. A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A WINE WRITER: VINISUD 2017 - Provence WineZine
  210. Corsica: Making Wine on an Island – L'occasion
  211. Decanter’s Man of the Year 2017 Steven Spurrier once owned a Vacqueyras Estate - Provence WineZine
  212. THE CURIOUS CASE OF MIRAVAL’S GRAPES - Provence WineZine
  213. MILLÉSIME BIO 2017: CONVERSATIONS WITH ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKERS - Provence WineZine
  214. MILLÉSIME BIO 2017: CONVERSATIONS WITH ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKERS - Provence WineZine
  215. MILLÉSIME BIO 2017: CONVERSATIONS WITH ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKERS - Provence WineZine
  216. MILLÉSIME BIO 2017: CONVERSATIONS WITH ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKERS - Provence WineZine
  217. MILLÉSIME BIO 2017: CONVERSATIONS WITH ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKERS - Provence WineZine
  218. MILLÉSIME BIO 2017: CONVERSATIONS WITH ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINEMAKERS - Provence WineZine
  219. THE STORY OF RÉGINE SUMEIRE’S “PÉTALE DE ROSE” ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  220. CHÂTEAU PEYRASSOL: THE MARC OF SUCCESS - Provence WineZine
  221. A Sense of Provence: Domaine Dalmeran – L'occasion
  222. Liquor Industry News/Links 05-22-17 | Franklin Liquors
  223. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food Beauty and the Belle - Provence WineZine
  224. EDITORIAL DEBATE: CAN WE SETTLE THIS OVER A ROSÉ? - Provence WineZine
  225. EDITORIAL DEBATE: CAN WE SETTLE THIS OVER A ROSÉ? - Provence WineZine
  226. EDITORIAL DEBATE: CAN WE SETTLE THIS OVER A ROSÉ? - Provence WineZine
  227. EDITORIAL DEBATE: CAN WE SETTLE THIS OVER A ROSÉ? - Provence WineZine
  228. Liquor Industry News/Links 05-22-17 – l9tv51p7
  229. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food AZ Puts the Pizzazz in Rosé - Provence WineZine
  230. George Lucas new Property Acquisition adds French Chateau Margui to his Skywalker Vineyards
  231. 2016 Wine Bloggers Conference in Lodi: The Highlights - Social Vignerons
  232. Château Barbebelle’s Madeleine Herbeau Comes to New Hampshire - Provence WineZine
  233. TASTING WINE AT THE NEW YORK CITY WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL: “CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS - THE ROSÉ LIFESTYLE OF SAINT-TROPEZ” - Provence WineZine
  234. MILLÉSIME BIO 2018: MY THREE TAKEAWAYS FROM PROVENCE AND SOUTHERN RHÔNE TABLES - Provence WineZine
  235. Vinisud + VinoVision in Paris Next Year - Provence WineZine
  236. HOW MARKUS NIGGLI VENTURED INTO MAKING EUROPEAN-STYLE WHITE WINES IN LODI, CALIFORNIA - Provence WineZine
  237. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodRose Gold? Gold Rosé! - Provence WineZine
  238. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food Tasting Tavel - Provence WineZine
  239. Thank God It’s Roséday Friday - Provence WineZine
  240. CHÂTEAU MIRAVAL TO RELEASE A HIGH-END ORGANIC ROSÉ THIS SUMMER: MUSE DE MIRAVAL - Provence WineZine
  241. CHÂTEAU MIRAVAL TO RELEASE A HIGH-END ORGANIC ROSÉ THIS SUMMER: MUSE DE MIRAVAL - Provence WineZine
  242. CHÂTEAU MIRAVAL TO RELEASE A HIGH-END ORGANIC ROSÉ THIS SUMMER: MUSE DE MIRAVAL - Provence WineZine
  243. CHÂTEAU MIRAVAL TO RELEASE A HIGH-END ORGANIC ROSÉ THIS SUMMER: MUSE DE MIRAVAL - Provence WineZine
  244. Two New Rhône-Varietal Wines Added to the Line-up at Acquiesce Winery - Provence WineZine
  245. LE P’TIT RESTO: A SMALL RESTAURANT WITH A GREAT WINE LIST - Provence WineZine
  246. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodRough and Ready - Provence WineZine
  247. Un campion al calității: Rose de Purcari – Fine Wine
  248. AN INTERNATIONAL BLIND TASTING IN LODI CALIFORNIA INCLUDED RHÔNE VALLEY AND PROVENCE WINES - WineJournal
  249. AN INTERNATIONAL BLIND TASTING IN LODI CALIFORNIA INCLUDED RHÔNE VALLEY AND PROVENCE WINES - AllDailyPost
  250. Lessons from a Biodynamic Winemaker in France – L'OCCASION
  251. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodSide by Side by Syrah - Provence WineZine
  252. Chapitre 24: An Adventure Afoot in Lourmarin, France – theAIXpatAIXperience
  253. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  254. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  255. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  256. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  257. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  258. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  259. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  260. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  261. A TRIBUTE TO JERRY CLARK, THE WINE MAVEN (November 17, 1939 – April 17, 2019) - Provence WineZine
  262. Wine with Fish & Chips – Wine Club Uncorked
  263. TAKING THE SLOW ROUTE ALONG THE RHÔNE FROM LYON TO LOURMARIN - PART TWO - Provence WineZine
  264. TAKING THE SLOW ROUTE ALONG THE RHÔNE FROM LYON TO LOURMARIN - PART TWO - Provence WineZine
  265. TAKING THE SLOW ROUTE ALONG THE RHÔNE FROM LYON TO LOURMARIN - PART TWO - Provence WineZine
  266. IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE? LVMH INVESTMENT IN CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS SUGGESTS IT CAN BE - Provence WineZine
  267. IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE? LVMH INVESTMENT IN CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS SUGGESTS IT CAN BE - Provence WineZine
  268. IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE? LVMH INVESTMENT IN CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS SUGGESTS IT CAN BE - Provence WineZine
  269. IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE? LVMH INVESTMENT IN CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS SUGGESTS IT CAN BE - Provence WineZine
  270. IT'S TIME TO BREAK OUT THE VIN CUIT - Provence WineZine
  271. IS ROSÉ A SERIOUS WINE? LVMH INVESTMENT IN CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS SUGGESTS IT CAN BE - Provence WineZine
  272. VANILLA ICE CREAM À LA CHÂTEAU DE BRIGUE: TOP WITH A SPLASH OF OLIVE OIL - Provence WineZine
  273. ESCAPE THE GLITZ OF CANNES WITH A VISIT TO ÎLE SAINT HONORAT - Provence WineZine
  274. I’m Old-fashioned… I Guess – Cocoa & Lavender
  275. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodQuelle Surprise! - Provence WineZine
  276. KITÁ WINES: FOR NATIVE AMERICAN WINEMAKER TARA GOMEZ, DREAMS DO COME TRUE - Provence WineZine
  277. KITÁ WINES: FOR NATIVE AMERICAN WINEMAKER TARA GOMEZ, DREAMS DO COME TRUE - Provence WineZine
  278. I’m Old-fashioned… I Guess – Cocoa & Lavender
  279. Butchered – Cocoa & Lavender
  280. DOMAINE DE L’AMAURIGUE CELEBRATES ITS 20TH VINTAGE - Provence WineZine
  281. Aix Marks the Spot – Cocoa & Lavender
  282. Aix Marks the Spot – Cocoa & Lavender
  283. Somm Survival Kit “Early Springtime Wines,” April 2020 – The Wine Workshop
  284. PROVENCE’S LES TREIZE DESSERTS: NOT JUST ANOTHER ARTICLE ABOUT THOSE 13 DESSERTS - Provence WineZine
  285. IN PROVENCE, OYSTERS AT CHRISTMAS ARE LIKE TURKEYS AT THANKSGIVING - Provence WineZine
  286. THE INTRIGUE OF LOURMARIN’S DOMAINE DE LA CAVALIÈRE AND ITS NATURAL WINE - Provence WineZine
  287. Celebrating San Marco – Cocoa & Lavender
  288. Übersicht Wein-Feiertage | der Ultes
  289. All You Need Is Love – Cocoa & Lavender
  290. Cake for Dinner – Cocoa & Lavender
  291. À TABLE! CHÂTEAU BARBEBELLE AND GÉRARD ISIRDI COME TO THE TABLE TO RAISE AWARENESS ABOUT PANDAS, THE POST-INFECTIOUS AUTOIMMUNE BASAL GANGLIA ENCEPHALITIS THAT KILLED ALEX MANFULL - Provence WineZine
  292. À TABLE! CHÂTEAU BARBEBELLE AND GÉRARD ISIRDI COME TO THE TABLE TO RAISE AWARENESS ABOUT PANDAS, THE POST-INFECTIOUS AUTOIMMUNE BASAL GANGLIA ENCEPHALITIS THAT TOOK THE LIFE OF ALEX MANFULL - Provence WineZine
  293. Theme and Variations – Cocoa & Lavender
  294. À Table! PANDAS ~remembering Alex - Shutters & Sunflowers
  295. À TABLE! CHÂTEAU BARBEBELLE AND GÉRARD ISIRDI COME TO THE TABLE TO RAISE AWARENESS ABOUT PANDAS, THE POST-INFECTIOUS AUTOIMMUNE BASAL GANGLIA ENCEPHALITIS THAT TOOK THE LIFE OF ALEX MANFULL – The À TABLE Project
  296. À TABLE! PANDAS ~REMEMBERING ALEX – À Table! Project
  297. Provence Wine Project for PANDAS Awareness À Table! – À Table! Project
  298. À Table! Château Barbabelle and Gérard Isirdi Come to the Table To Raise Awareness about PANDAS, The Post-Infectious Autoimmune Basal Ganglia Encephalitis That Took the Life of Alex Manfull – À Table! Project
  299. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodAs Summer Fades... - Provence WineZine
  300. Pinocchio Meets Finocchio – Cocoa & Lavender
  301. Taco Tuesday | Taco Anyday – Cocoa & Lavender
  302. Parce qu’il n’y a pas que le vin dans la vie… même pour une Master of Wine – Les 5 du Vin
  303. Default Settings – Cocoa & Lavender
  304. ταπενάντ - η πάστα μαύρης ελιάς εκ Προβηγκίας | Pandespani
  305. A Culinary Magic Carpet Ride – Cocoa & Lavender
  306. George Lucas new Property Acquisition adds French Chateau Margui to his Skywalker Vineyards – crystalriverreit.com – Insurance, Banking: Loans, Credit Cards, Mortgage, Factoring, Real Estate, Equipments, Luxury, Medical, Progressive Insurance
  307. A Resolution to Make Wishes – Cocoa & Lavender
  308. Two Female Winemakers Light Up Our New Year with Their Rhône-Varietal Sparkling Wines - Provence WineZine
  309. Two Female Winemakers Light Up Our New Year with Their Rhône-Varietal Sparkling Wines - Provence WineZine
  310. Provence Wine Project for PANDAS Awareness À Table! – The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund
  311. À Table! PANDAS ~Remembering Alex – The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund
  312. À Table! Château Barbabelle and Gérard Isirdi Come to the Table To Raise Awareness about PANDAS, The Post-Infectious Autoimmune Basal Ganglia Encephalitis That Took the Life of Alex Manfull – The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund
  313. À Table! Château Barbebelle and Gérard Isirdi Come to the Table To Raise Awareness about PANDAS, The Post-Infectious Autoimmune Basal Ganglia Encephalitis That Took the Life of Alex Manfull – The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund
  314. A Truffle is No Trifle – Cocoa & Lavender
  315. A Look at Rosé Diversity in Masterclass with Elizabeth Gabay MW - Provence WineZine
  316. A Look at Rosé Diversity in Masterclass with Elizabeth Gabay MW - Provence WineZine
  317. Blood Oranges – Cocoa & Lavender
  318. FOUR-MONTH SUSPENSION OF TARIFFS ON EU WINES IS ESPECIALLY GOOD NEWS FOR ROSÉ - Provence WineZine
  319. Once Again, From the Top(s) – Cocoa & Lavender
  320. What’s For Dinner? – Cocoa & Lavender
  321. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodBaby, It’s Cold Outside - Provence WineZine
  322. PROVENCE:  FIRST AMONG FRENCH WINE REGIONS IN GROWTH ABROAD IN 2020 - Provence WineZine
  323. PROVENCE:  FIRST AMONG FRENCH WINE REGIONS IN GROWTH ABROAD IN 2020 - Provence WineZine
  324. PROVENCE:  FIRST AMONG FRENCH WINE REGIONS IN GROWTH ABROAD IN 2020 - Provence WineZine
  325. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodRevisiting an Old Friend - Provence WineZine
  326. Twists and Turns – Cocoa & Lavender
  327. A Mediterranean Mix – Cocoa & Lavender
  328. Each Wine Has Its Day. Right Here’s Your Worldwide Wine Day Cheat Sheet - NewsProPlus.com
  329. Every Wine Has Its Day. Here’s Your International Wine Day Cheat Sheet | by afrobella | Jul, 2021 – Women Theme
  330. Every Wine Has Its Day. Here’s Your International Wine Day Cheat Sheet | by afrobella | Jul, 2021 – Women Knows
  331. Every Wine Has Its Day. Here’s Your International Wine Day Cheat Sheet | by afrobella | Jul, 2021 - The Women Today
  332. Every Wine Has Its Day. Here’s Your International Wine Day Cheat Sheet | by afrobella | Jul, 2021 – Women Reporter
  333. International Rosé Day – June 24 – Calendarity
  334. Provence WineZine: Alex’s Wine – The Alex Manfull Fund
  335. À Table! Château Barbebelle and Gérard Isirdi Come to the Table To Raise Awareness about PANDAS, The Post-Infectious Autoimmune Basal Ganglia Encephalitis That Took the Life of Alex Manfull – The Alex Manfull Fund
  336. Falling into Autumn – Cocoa & Lavender
  337. DiscoverNet | The Tragic Real-Life Story Of Edith Piaf
  338. Accords mets et vins avec côtelettes de porc rôties au cumin - Blog Voyage
  339. If the Boot Fits… – Cocoa & Lavender
  340. A Winter’s Tail – Cocoa & Lavender
  341. Poulet rôti avec une touche méditerranéenne - Blog Voyage
  342. Nicely Dressed for the New Year – Cocoa & Lavender
  343. Accords mets et vins de la Vallée du Rhône Caladoc - Blog Voyage
  344. Provence Wine to Kick Off 2022 with The Winophiles, Elizabeth Gabay MW, and Susan Manfull – L'OCCASION
  345. Brad Pitt e Agelina Jolie, os vinhos do Château Miraval
  346. The 10-Year Do-Over – Cocoa & Lavender
  347. Provençal Pairings: Wine with FoodDinner with Friends - Provence WineZine
  348. 50 things we love in the world of food right now – my24group.com
  349. Repas d'Hiver Queue de Bœuf Braisée à la Purée de Pommes de Terre - Blog Voyage
  350. 50 things we love in the world of food right now – The Guardian – UK NY news
  351. Ragù alla Bolognese – Cocoa & Lavender
  352. With a Twist – Cocoa & Lavender
  353. 50 things we love in the world of food right now – The Guardian - Sephari New Zealand
  354. A Birthday Box – Cocoa & Lavender
  355. Life is a {Literary} Picnic – Cocoa & Lavender
  356. We Had a Halibut Time! – Cocoa & Lavender
  357. Indoor Picnic! – Cocoa & Lavender
  358. Sweet and Tart – Cocoa & Lavender
  359. ¡Vamanos! – Cocoa & Lavender
  360. Kicks on Route 66 – Cocoa & Lavender
  361. Fine Wine Writing is Alive and Well … And a Book Sale! – Wine Travel Media
  362. Provence Wine Project for PANDAS Awareness À Table! -
  363. À Table! Château Barbebelle and Gérard Isirdi Come to the Table To Raise Awareness about PANDAS, The Post-Infectious Autoimmune Basal Ganglia Encephalitis That Took the Life of Alex Manfull -
  364. Dreams Really Do Come True – Cocoa & Lavender
  365. 50 things we love in the world of food right now – The Guardian - Sephari United Kingdom
  366. Clustered – Cocoa & Lavender
  367. À Table! Château Barbabelle and Gérard Isirdi Come to the Table To Raise Awareness about PANDAS, The Post-Infectious Autoimmune Basal Ganglia Encephalitis That Took the Life of Alex Manfull -
  368. Edging Towards the Equinox – Cocoa & Lavender
  369. Wine Days 2023: dé WIJN inhaakkalender 2023 - Anne-Wies
  370. Recipe for Steak with Hatch Chile Cream and Tomato-Corn Salsa – Cocoa & Lavender
  371. Culinary Pyromania – Cocoa & Lavender
  372. Recipe for Butter Poached Halibut with Lime-Vanilla Sauce – Cocoa & Lavender
  373. Recipe for Oeufs Mimosa – Cocoa & Lavender
  374. Recipe for Goatherd’s Pie – Cocoa & Lavender
  375. Lawyers Claim Actor Brad Pitt Is Not A Winemaker At Miraval – Precious World Need Attention On Precious Issues
  376. Recipe for Fish Tacos – Cocoa & Lavender
  377. Recipe for Sablefish in Lemon Cream over Lavender Fettucine – Cocoa & Lavender
  378. Recipe for Arroz con Pollo – Cocoa & Lavender
  379. Recipe for Fondue Suisse Classique – Cocoa & Lavender
  380. Wine Days 2024: de WIJN inhaakkalender - Anne-Wies
  381. Provençal Pairings: Wine with Food White and Red, Daube and Wine - Provence WineZine
  382. Recipe for White Daube – Cocoa & Lavender
  383. Goat Dressing – Cocoa & Lavender
  384. Recipe for Chicken Ispahan – Cocoa & Lavender
  385. A New Sauce for My Salmon – Cocoa & Lavender
  386. Recipe for Pork Medallions with Mustard Cream – Cocoa & Lavender
  387. Recipe for Filet Mignon with Tarragon Butter – Cocoa & Lavender
  388. ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas… – Cocoa & Lavender
  389. Recipe for Salmorejo and Bruschetta – Cocoa & Lavender

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